From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1981
Date: Saturday, April 24, 2004 3:55 PM

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean in Alexandria, VA (eMail addresses)
From: "content22207" <>

2. Re: Automatic
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

3. Re: DeLorean ownership; an ego trip?
From: Holler <>

4. Re: Bucking and Kicking
From: "TalksToGod" <>

5. Rack & Pinion movement
From: "TalksToGod" <>

6. Fuel pressure values
From: "cruznmd" <>

7. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "TalksToGod" <>

8. Another one lives!
From: Louie G <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 20:37:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean in Alexandria, VA (eMail addresses)

(Apologies to List for broadcasting reply, but whenever I attempt to
send a message to a poster by clicking on their Yahoo truncated eMail
address, it goes instead to the moderator).

Mike Cohee, Mike Pack, and Rich Acuti all live in the area:
Mike Pack: MichaelRPack1(at) 
Mike Cohee: Billsfanmd(at)
Rich Acuti: racuti1(at)

Eric Itzel (Tennessee) visits family in Annapolis: eric(at)

I hope to be passing through DC 4/28 - 5/4 to/from Mid Atlantic:

BTW: Where are you flying from? Amtrak often beats flying up & down
the east coast.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "johnzd81" <johnzd81_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello,
>     I have a ticket to fly down to Alexandria, VA to take a look at 
> this DeLorean 
> Is there anyone in the area who would be willing to give it a once 
> over, perhaps a test drive for me?  My ticket is non-refundable, but 
> it would help me greatly if I had some information before getting 
> there.  I spoke to the owner, and from my questions and his answers, 
> the car sounds like a good solid driver, and a driver is what I 
> want.  I don't have unlimited funds for repairs, but am capable of 
> doing most of the work required. 
> If anyone would be willing to check this out for me, I would 
> appreciate it greatly!
> Thanks in advance,
> John


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:23:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Automatic

The current theory is that when you connect another car onto the
electrical circuit of the "dead" car it causes a surge that can spike
the electrical system of the dead car. The capacitors that fail are
only 35 volts so it doesn't take much of a surge to blow them. There
is also the possabilty when jumping of accidently doing it incorrectly
and applying the reverse polarity. On the newest cars they
specifically prohibit jumping the car because of all the computers in
them. You are supposed to remove the battery and recharge it or
replace it with a fully charged battery. In the Delorean I also
believe the other contributing factors include:
A malfunctioning voltage regulator in the alternator
Dirty or loose electrical connections
A bad battery
A very cheaply designed shift computer made with sub-standard parts.
The last factor is probably the single biggest cause. Can you imagine?
the FRENCH making a sub-standard part!!!!!!! It is Renault BTW. As bad
as it is replacing the 2 caps seems to fix most of the shift
computers. That and resoldering all of the cold solder joints.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Why would jumping the car destroy that "computer" ?
> Elvis


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 20:27:07 -0400
From: Holler <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean ownership; an ego trip?

My latest story, just yesterday in New York City. . .
(and please keep in mind, we are certainly blessed, but not necessarily
by wealth)
My wife and I are driving down beautiful Broadway in our stainless pride
(heads turning with audible snaps) and a particular business type (very
sharp suit) man's face just lights up with a happy smile.  He shouts
'HEY' in a respectable New York bark, and continues with, "Sell it now? 
Right now."
He then pulls out the LARGEST fold of bills I've ever seen, from his
right trouser pocket.

(-And I just thought he was happy to see us! Ba-dump-bump!)

Terry snapped a picture and we laughed and waved, driving away.
Later, she agreed that he'd need the other pocket equally stuffed to get
our full attention.
We love our DeLorean.  It takes us so many places and we get to see so
many different people and things!
And we'll see you all in Pigeon Forge!
What is that worth?  
Much more than what can fit in the pockets of a thousand dollar Armani suit.

Oliver Holler
(getting older, but never a 'coot'!)


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 03:00:00 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: Re: Bucking and Kicking

For an update: Today I had the chance to look at the fuel pump, lines
and etc. It turns out that the metal clamp on the end of the hose
connecting it to the pump cut a whole in the line, so as the fuel
level got lower then the bottom of the pump it seemed to take air. I
also hooked up a hose to the fuel hose and blew air through to see if
there were any other holes. Clipping the line and reinstalling it with
a different clamp cured the problem. Ran it up hills and it didn't
kick! Thank you all for your help -Dan Benedek #5003


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 03:08:49 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: Rack & Pinion movement

I noticed that my rack & pinion moves slightly from side to side.
While driving I felt that the car kind of wander, so I took it home,
took the cover from the brake M/C area and saw the rack moving while I
turned the wheel. Yes, I do have the steel holding plate underneith
the pass side mount installed and tight; I checked both mounts-both
tight. Anything I can do to stop the movement? Thanks -Dan Benedek Vin


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 03:49:45 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <>
Subject: Fuel pressure values

My car is experiencing a loss of power. Symptoms are:
Flat acceleration curve. With 1/3, to 1/2 pedal applied, car 
accelerates smoothly but slowly, depress the pedal further and the 
engine stumbles mightily and the car bucks. Swapping CPR's with a 
fellow owner did not correct the problem. RPM relay was checked and 
is operating correctly. All fuel components are new except for the 
accumulator. (1.5 years old or less). I'm currently getting 21.45 
MPG, and the lambda system is operating correctly.

A Bosch K-jetronic pressure test rig reads the following values:

When the rig is installed with the T-valve towards the distributor, I 
get the following pressures:

Valve open: 0 (zero) bars/psi.
Valve shut: 4 bars.

This didn't seem right to me, so I turned it around so that the T-
valve was towards the CPR. (John H. later confirmed this for me) With 
the engine off, RPM relay jumpered I read the following values:

T-Valve open: 3.7 bars (control pressure)
T-Valve shut: 4.5 bars (primary pressure)

Engine running (RPM relay installed normally), the following values:

Valve open: 3.7 bars
Valve shut: 4.6 bars

The manual states that the nominal values are:

Primary pressure: 
   Checking pressure: 4.9-5.5 bars
   Setting pressure:  5.1-5.3 bars

Control pressure:
   Max: 3.5 bars (when hot)
   Min: (when cold) 1.4ish bars
Assuming that I had the rig set up right (I'm fairly confident), my 
control pressure is a tad high, and primary pressure is a tad low. 
Combined with possibly dirty injectors could this account for such a 
dramatic loss of power? I also discovered that my air filter is 
filthy already too. (9 months old)

To put this in perspective for my fellow Americans; 

I have as much as 3 psi too much control pressure,
and anywhere from a 7.25-14.5 psi LOSS of main line pressure.
(1 bar= apprx. 14.5 psi) (Which primary pressure value do I 
use? "Checking" or "Setting"?) See the fuel section of the workshop 
manual. Am I making too much of this small variation in values, or is 
that enough to make a difference? Personally, I think my fuel pump is 
too loud even though it's only been installed for 1.5 years. I 
believe it's NOS, old style. Internal check-valve. Maybe it's dying?

What say you?

Rich A.


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 03:15:47 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

You should make great time if you work on it daily. Took me only 2
months to take the frame, strip it, rebuild it, weld on a new front
end, reinstall everything and put it back under-now that was a lot of
work-next time my frame is bad I'm going to buy a new one not fool
around rebuilding again *laughs. Is your rear sway bar installation an
aftermarket? or the stock one that goes behind the engine? Dan Benedek
VIN #5003


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 21:37:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <>
Subject: Another one lives!

Hi group,

I just wanted to pass my happiness on to everyone. I recently made a new DeLorean owner friend in Concord, North Carolina. His car had been non-running and disassembled for years. Over the last couple of months I've been helping him reassemble the car, and tonight we finally got it running! It's sure a great feeling to know that another D which had an uncertain future is now back in the fleet. We've still got some kinks to work out here and there like the idle, but the car has come a long ways. Hopefully his DeLorean will be completely ready to go in time for Pigeon Forge. The car is definately not traditional, but I think the mods the owner has made will be a big hit at the DeLorean Car Show. Anyways, I just wanted to pass on the good news!

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


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