From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1985
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 7:46 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Removing Angle Drive Circular Spring
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Funniest thing ever heard
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: A little help in Indianapolis
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. RE: Removing Angle Drive Circular Spring
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

5. Re: michelin pilot
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Twin turbo muffler recommendations?
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

7. RE: Re: Fuel pressure values
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

8. Re: Clutch Installation Questions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: michelin pilot
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>

10. RE: First Outing With My DeLorean-STRANDED
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

11. Pigeon forge info
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. More PF info - kids welcome
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: Fuel system revisited
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Fuel system revisited
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Re: Auto Tranny Dip Stick
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Re: Fuel system revisited
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

19. Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Tie-Rod Boots Installation
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

22. Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. RE: First Outing With My DeLorean-STRANDED
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Installing 28 Spline Transmissions With 10 Spline Method
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 21:32:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Angle Drive Circular Spring

It's actually a lock ring (conveniently missing any tabs to grab it
with...)

See Message #40512.

Use good light. I found that crucial.

I'll remove your lock ring for you if you'll re-install my transmission...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bob Hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know how to remove the circular spring from the old
angle drive
> so you can retrieve the large nut?  The instructions say compress
the spring
> with two small screwdrivers, but I don't find that possible.
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> Bob Hlavacek
> 10961




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 22:33:16 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Funniest thing ever heard

Its possible.  There are stories on the list (years ago) about 
abandoned prototypes with the slidding windows in the doors just 
sitting there rusting away (if that were possible), and the owners 
dont want to do anything with them.  Lol, na, I dont think there were 
any 4 door versions made.  Must be the four door bricklin.

Tom Porter
Getting vinned soon.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Someone told me once that their "friends mother" used to have the 4 
> door version but didn't like getting in and out.
> 
> regards,
> 
> Michael
> vin 6067




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:22:34 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: A little help in Indianapolis

there are two tech sessions on May 15th 
one is at Josh's in Cincinnati and the other in Chicago 
I will be going through Indianapolis next week and the 15th 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:07:44 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Removing Angle Drive Circular Spring

Hi Bob,

The nut is often difficult (notice I didn't say impossible but sometimes it
is) to remove without breaking the "snout" off the angle drive. You could
save the aggravation and keep the drive as a rebuildable part if you order a
new axle nut. We have them in stock...Part # 105027G Axle/A.D. Nut $22.50

Rob Grady 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hlavacek [mailto:bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2004 9:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Removing Angle Drive Circular Spring


Does anyone know how to remove the circular spring from the old angle drive
so you can retrieve the large nut?  The instructions say compress the spring
with two small screwdrivers, but I don't find that possible.

Thanks for your help!

Bob Hlavacek
10961





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 22:56:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: michelin pilot

I spoke to Rob about tires before buying the Michelin Pilots recently.
Because there is so little to pick from the Michelins are considered
the best choice. There may have been better choices in the past, like
the Yokos, but they are no longer available. It also comes down to
personal preference and how you want the car to ride. After having the
old NCT's I think the Pilots are FANTASTIC. I don't have much to
compare to, the NCT's were 20 years old and HARD. I had to go on the
experience of others who have used other types of tires and the advice
was the Michelins. I have always had good experience with Michelin on
other cars and it is a good tire company. My first set was in 1970 on
a big Chrysler. I got them at Sears and used them down past the wear
indicators and got 60,000 miles out of them! I paid a lot for them at
the time but I got my money's worth! Steel belted radials were
expensive then.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> I know the Pilot's have been brought up before, but after burning up
a set of 
> Yoko AVS's in 10K miles (the rears anyway, fronts are good), i am
looking for 
d]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:30:24 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Twin turbo muffler recommendations?

Hi All,

Is anyone out there with an Island twin-turbo setup out there running anything other than the mufflers that came with the kit?  While 'throaty', the Walker 21959's that come with the kit are making my teeth rattle.  Any recommendations would be appreciated!  Please email me directly at dave.stragand -<at>- forwardlook.net.

Thanks!

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:39:31 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fuel pressure values

Hi Rich,

I'm surprised too Rich...I thought that David T. or John H. would have
jumped on this one! Normal control pressure should be 3.8 bar (not 3.5 bar)
so you are OK there. Your primary pressure, as you know, is too low and that
is an unusual problem. Perform a fuel pump volume test and if the pump
checks out and there appears to be no restrictions in the lines to the
distributor then the pressure regulator can be removed from it and shims
added or removed to adjust the primary pressure. It's rare for this to need
adjusting so check the pump and lines carefully before making this
adjustment.

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2004 10:26 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel pressure values

May I ask why you say that?

My original post was very long so maybe you skimmed past it:

The CPR is new, -and- I swapped it for a known good one from a fellow 
owner. The pressure values shown by the gauge are only a 3 psi over 
the high spec. I have verified that it's connected properly from 
drawings in the archives.

The frequency vavle buzzes away, and I've check it with a dwell 
meter. It is operating within the correct range.

I'm suprised no one has called me out on the 7-14 psi low primary 
pressure. My question about that is: Is the pump output low, or is 
the primary pressure regulator out of spec?

Can the primary pressure regulator be adjusted?




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 00:19:14 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Installation Questions

1/4 inch. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Could someone with a manual transmission on the ground measure the
> distance from the bellhousing mating surface to the end of the input
> shaft? I am beginning to wonder if my input shaft does not protrude
> far enough into the pilot bearing, among other things.
> 




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 23:42:00 -0000
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: michelin pilot

Hi Andy

I've had a set of Michelin Pilots on my car for 2 driving seasons. 
I put them on soon after the yoko's started to become hard to get. At 
the time they were the only matched set availiable in a higher 
performance tire. The only real problem I had was harmonic Vibration.
I chased that probem quite a while until I finally got lucky figured 
out what was going on. Apparently, within a day of having them 
installed I picked up a dry wall screw in the face of a tread lug
(left rear) It created a very slow leak that would stay up for a week 
and slowly loose pressure. I finally determined the unbalanced tire 
pressure was cause all my problems. As a side note I asked Steve 
Wynne what he thought about the the tires at the time because they 
had just started installing them at there shop also. He personally 
didn't like them after being used to the much better Yoko's, but 
conceded that until somebody comes out with something better it was 
the only way to go at the time. Remember, that was two years ago. 
There may be something else out there, But I just haven't heard much 
about the other choices.
As for performance there just fine. I never was one to out and test 
the skid pad performance. The only time I've ever broke the rear 
loose was because of pea gravel on the pavement. That was with my old 
yoko's

Dennis 5180


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> I know the Pilot's have been brought up before, but after burning 
up a set of 
> Yoko AVS's in 10K miles (the rears anyway, fronts are good), i am 
looking for 
> the best tire out there.  I have read the back issues of the DML 
and find 
> that most owners go for the XGT's, which look OK to me, but i was 
wondering if 
> there was anything else decent.  



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:59:13 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: First Outing With My DeLorean-STRANDED

Hi Roland,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that is typical of an internal drum
failure in an automatic which would mean rebuild or replace the tranny. I
hope I'm wrong but if not don't "shoot the messenger" as I'm just answering
your question :). BTW if you are that concerned about overheating it you may
want to consider (after it's fixed) one of our aluminum A.T cooler heat
exchangers which clamps around your cooler and drops your automatics
operating temperature by about 20 degrees. In theory you double the life of
your trans with every 20 degree drop in operating temperature. Call us for
details if you're interested as it's not on our website yet.

Rob Grady 

-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Smith [mailto:roland_at_dml_dnai.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 8:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] First Outing With My DeLorean-STRANDED

I have owned my DeLorean since early February and it has been in for repairs
and improvements almost the whole time.

Yesterday, Sunday, my wife and I set out early in it to go to Half Moon Bay
to join the Northern California DeLorean Motor Club at a Dream Machines car
show.

Moving in a long line of cars to the entrance, there were delays where we
would be dead stopped and then have car length forward movement.  In order
to save the automatic transmission overheating , I would put the selector in
N when stopped and then D to move forward when the line moved.

When we got to the front and I was the next to move, I moved the selector to
D an felt a slight engagement effect as it slipped into gear and then
nothing.  It would not function in any gear and the engine would rev easily
as if it was in neutral.

What could have happened?



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 00:31:33 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Pigeon forge info

Passing this on for Ken K who somehow didn't get this thru

----------------------------------------------------

The early registration deadline for Pigeon Forge is May 1st.  
 
All orders received by that time will be batched and you will get an 
e-mail back with instructions on the show and what other information 
you need. 
General directios to Pigeon Forge will be give at this time.
 
For those of you Driving Pigeon forge is on RT 441 and off of exit 
407 on route 40 north east of Knoxville.
 
You can also reach it from the north or south by 321
 
If you have registered for the hotel that does not mean you are 
registered for the events
so please go to 
 
www.deloreancarshow.com for registration information.
 
AS of MAY 1st the FREE T-shirt offer will be removed from the web 
page.  This was the incentive for early registration.  
 
After May 1st we will process the registrations in smaller batches or 
individually depending on how much time we have.  
 
There are plenty of rooms.  The low cost rooms may be difficult to 
find at Smokey Shadows but they are available at the Grand Hotel.  
The Grand is the site of the events on Friday and Sat and both are 
owned by the same company.
 
If you wish to volunteer we will have a meeting around 3PM on 
Thursday at Smoky Shadows convention center ( I need all the help I 
can get)
 
So please register before May 1st 
If you mail we look for the post mark.
 
Online registration will accept visa/mc and paypal
 
So far we have about 200 people registered and that is about what we 
had at this time for Memphis so we expect between 400 and 500 
people.  
 
Thanks for your support 
and 
 
SEE YOU IN PIGEON FORGE
 
Ken
DeLorean Car Show Inc
DeLorean Car Show Magazine 
deloreancarshow.com




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 00:32:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: More PF info - kids welcome

This one too. 

Dave
----------------------------------------

has come to my attention that some of you with children are concerned 
that the costs to bring them are too much.
 
We encourage families to come and we do have special pricing for 
children
 
The convention center has offered children 4 and under free and 5-12 
at half price
we also wave the registration fee for children.
 
Since we do not have that listed on the web site you can adjust it on 
the printable form and just mail it in.
 
Hope this answers your questions 
 
In the event of a large family (4 or more children please contact me 
at this e-mail address direct)
 
Ken




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 01:04:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel system revisited

Actually the spark should be a big, fat, BLUE spark, not white. Put
the Bosch coil in that you origionally took out. You could also have a
problem in the ignition wires now. With a GOOD coil now you could have
broken down the wires and now the sparks are jumping out on the wires
and not at the electrodes. I think I am still on the right track as
evidenced by the fact that we touched it (the problem) and corrected
it for a short while. I don't think the fuel system could act "flukey"
like this with a problem that comes and goes while working on the
ignition system. Humidity can affect this greatly. Was it raining in
your area today when you noticed the problem reoccur? On a completely
different tack maybe the fuel filter is plugged up. Under high fuel
flow conditions it can't deliver enough. With all the dirt and
problems you had initially with the fuel system maybe you filled the
filter up? Many times a problem with a car has several causes. When
you fix one another shows up underlying the origional. You never
notice it because the obvious one is hiding it. When you do the fuel
system tests it is not under load so you wouldn't see a dirty fuel
filter. This could also be the cause of your low primary pressure.
Before changing shims (which is RARELY NECESSARY) I would replace the
filter and cut the old one open.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I have no idea why my car ran so well after putting the new ignition 
> coil in yesterday, but that was not the cause of my problem. The car 
> still starts far easier than it did before but now, again, it runs 
> terribly.
> 
> Symptoms are exactly the same: After 1/2 pedal, the tach jumps all 
> over the dial, the car bucks and farts and nearly tosses me out of 
> the seat. I lose acceleration until I back off of the pedal.
> 
> All I know for sure is this: -SOMETIMES- the car runs better when the 
> engine is cool. It has psych'ed me out 4 times in the last few weeks, 
> thinking that I'd found the problem. As soon as I get hung up in any 
> kind of traffic where I get enough heat to run the cooling fans, the 
> engine goes to hell until it sits overnight or gets very cool again.
> 
> Dave T. still knows his stuff, but the ignition didn't seem to be the 
> problem. I have a nice white spark now.
> 
> This one's just going to have to wait until Saturday at the Social.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 01:16:44 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel system revisited

Make sure your alternator is putting out good voltage. My original
Motorolla was putting out too little causing poor acceleration. Engine
was lacking power for spark-Especially if I had my lights or fan on.
Upgraded and away went the problem. Dan Benedek -VIN #5003




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 01:37:18 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Tranny Dip Stick

The flat piece with the measurements must be missing from your dip-
stick. That is the length of the coil flex part of my dip-stick but 
I have an additional piece at the bottom showing all the lines for 
hot, cold, etc. If you look in the parts manual 4-5-2 110134, you 
can sort of see the piece at the end.

In any event - when mine is hot (175 degrees F) the fluid is about 
an inch up on the coil. No bubbles indicating over full, etc. and no 
slipping. The fluid can really heat up if you work the converter - 
I've had it to 200 degrees. The fluid can really expand at those 
temps and cause an over full condition - However, so far I have not 
seen such a condition with my trans. So, I must be pretty close. 

BTW, if you clean and dry off the stick with brake clean you can 
read the fluid measure fairly well in a bright light at an angle.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Harold,
> 
> Thank you for that measurement.  Mine is 26 and 3/8 inches from 
the edge of 
> the red plastic handle that seats on the fill tube to the tip of 
the "wire".  
> There are no marking on my stick and it is made out of a coiled 
metal material 
> like the outside metal sheath of a release cable of some sort.  
The coils of 
> the stick make it more difficult to see the level of the oil and 
the oil 
> quickly dissipates into the groves of the coil making a reading 
even more difficult.
> 
> Is yours a standard flat metal strip?
> 
> If we are measuring from the same reference point then mine must 
be too short.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> Message: 19
>    Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:38:02 -0000
>    From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...>
> Subject: Re: Auto Tranny Dip Stick
> 
> This will be a great exercise. I have often thought the auto dip 
> stick was probably not accurate.
> 
> Mine is 26 3/4 inches from the red plastic handle to the full-hot 
> line. I use that line as the full-cold line. Years ago when I 
> believed the full hot line the trans would sometimes slip when 
cold 
> and show air bubbles in the fluid.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 02:39:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?

I would hazard a guess that using smaller (and therefore shallower) 
splines makes the effective diameter (that traced by the base of the 
splines) of the shaft larger, and therefore stronger. Also, the 
"strength" of each spline will be increased in proportion with the 
number of splines.

Really early DeLoreans, in the pre 1000 vin range have early 10-spline 
Renault clutches. I thought the newer ones were 21 spline. Could be 
wrong though, not got one to hand, and never really bothered counting them!

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>What are the advantages of 28 little splines over 10 big ones? So far
>they've only made my life worse.
>
>Shopped my damaged clutch discs around town at lunch, and may have
>convinced a mechanic with a lift and a proper transmission jack to
>reconsider (transmission installation only -- all other ancillary work
>would still be mine)...
>
>He's totally perplexed by the 28 splines. Has never seen a clutch disc
>with so many, and so small. 
>  
>





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 02:27:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel system revisited

(Bit of cross-posting here, apologies for those who've read this already)

We had a customer with very similar problems yesterday. I fitted a new 
coil and a new RPM relay, as well as repairing a damaged pin on the 
idlespeed thermistor, replaced the broken full throttle microswitch and 
vacuum advance solenoid with a broken pin, all of which were compounding 
the problems by exhibiting poor starting and a lumpy idle. All of this 
made it a lot better but he was getting serious hiccupping at about 
4000rpm unless he backed off the throttle, which would then make it 
red-line smoothly, albeit slowly!

I suggested we look inside the distributor - I know I suggested this to 
you too Rich, and you confirmed you'd cleaned and re-lubed the bob-weights. When we pulled the dizzy out of this car, the bob-weights were fine _but_  one of the springs that tensions one of the weights was missing. Don Steger once told me that most DeLorean dizzys only have one spring. I've seen it before and that time, as this, no evidence of a broken or dislodged spring was found. However, by hooking up a spring from a spare dizzy (original DeLorean dizzy with two springs - btw the two are different), the problem disappeared completely, and our customer rang today to thank us for "transforming the car" and making it far better than he ever imagined it could be. 

I wonder if the timing being too far out can bugger up the output from the ignition ECU (grey/white wire) which in turn feeds the RPM relay - our customer's problems were not fixed, but appreciably altered by trying different RPM relays (by a previous garage). Imagine the fault in the ignition system causing the fuel pump to be cut in the rev-range where you get trouble - that'll make everything a lot worse!

Your experience that it works better when cold is also consistent - your distributor gets no vacuum advance when cold, and you get accelleration enrichment. But gets it when warmed up, the mixture is leaner and you will run some advance under light throttle.

Best Wishes

Martin
DMUK
www.delorean.co.uk


>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>  
>
>>I have no idea why my car ran so well after putting the new ignition 
>>coil in yesterday, but that was not the cause of my problem. The car 
>>still starts far easier than it did before but now, again, it runs 
>>terribly.
>>
>>Symptoms are exactly the same: After 1/2 pedal, the tach jumps all 
>>over the dial, the car bucks and farts and nearly tosses me out of 
>>the seat. I lose acceleration until I back off of the pedal.
>>
>>All I know for sure is this: -SOMETIMES- the car runs better when the 
>>engine is cool. It has psych'ed me out 4 times in the last few weeks, 
>>thinking that I'd found the problem. 
>>
>  
>





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:12:11 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))

HI Ryan,
    Where in Eastern Washington State?   I am in South Eastern in Walla
Walla.
        Murray Fisher
        Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:40:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?

Early DeLoreans had the bigger/fewer splines.  Don't
know exactly how many, but I can go count them for you
if you like.

I have no idea why it was changed, but it is likely to
have been a decision by Renault.  With no data to back
it up (I am always guilty of drawing conclusions based
on observations alone..) I get the feeling Renault
"cost-reduced" the transmissions they sent to DeLorean
for some reason.  Maybe they were in on the conspiracy
to put DMC out of business too?

--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> What are the advantages of 28 little splines over 10
> big ones? So far
> they've only made my life worse.
<SNIP>


	
		
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 02:47:19 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Tie-Rod Boots Installation

I'm replacing my tie-rod boots and was wondering what the trick is to 
get the upper and lower arms separated.  I have the nut removed but 
I'm not sure what to do next.  I was told by a mechanic to whack it 
with a hammer but I'm not so sure...

Johnny
5518




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:43:51 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))

I'm in Salem and would be happy to meet with you. Just a half hour 
south of Portland

Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
http://alessandros120.com/




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 02:58:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Advantages of 28 spline clutch discs?

10 splines are at least twice as deep, so the effective diameter
should be comparable.

Totally disagree about strength. It's virtually impossible to damage a
10 spline clutch disc once you're in them. The input shaft either
moves, or it comes to a screeching halt. None of this folding and
deforming of the splines that has caught me twice. I obviously respond
better to thick pieces of metal, not thin.

Received a flame mail that fine splines are standard issue on imports.
Need I say more? 

BTW: I have been struggling with this transmission all by myself.
People promise you the earth, moon and stars, but when time comes to
lay on your back in the driveway they disappear rapidly. Don't worry
-- they reappear just as quickly afterwards to press your botched
clutch disc off the input shaft.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I would hazard a guess that using smaller (and therefore shallower) 
> splines makes the effective diameter (that traced by the base of the 
> splines) of the shaft larger, and therefore stronger. Also, the 
> "strength" of each spline will be increased in proportion with the 
> number of splines.
> 
> Really early DeLoreans, in the pre 1000 vin range have early 10-spline 
> Renault clutches. I thought the newer ones were 21 spline. Could be 
> wrong though, not got one to hand, and never really bothered
counting them!
> 
> Martin
> 





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 23:31:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: First Outing With My DeLorean-STRANDED

Rob,
 
Im interested, ive been looking for some type of cooling solution thats better than the one provided.  Let me know, on or off group.
 
thanx
 
jordan
11613

PJ Grady <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> wrote:
Hi Roland,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that is typical of an internal drum
failure in an automatic which would mean rebuild or replace the tranny. I
hope I'm wrong but if not don't "shoot the messenger" as I'm just answering
your question :). BTW if you are that concerned about overheating it you may
want to consider (after it's fixed) one of our aluminum A.T cooler heat
exchangers which clamps around your cooler and drops your automatics
operating temperature by about 20 degrees. In theory you double the life of
your trans with every 20 degree drop in operating temperature. Call us for
details if you're interested as it's not on our website yet.

Rob Grady 

-----Original Message-----
[moderator snip]



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 04:42:24 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Advice for new owner! (& seeking Sacramento/Portland club member(s))

Zillah, Washington here..
Near Yakima, Washington
Dale Funk
Vin 4984 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> HI Ryan,
>     Where in Eastern Washington State?   I am in South Eastern in 
Walla
> Walla.
>         Murray Fisher
>         Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 06:56:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Installing 28 Spline Transmissions With 10 Spline Method

This thread is about played out, but I did want to clarify that the
disappearing "people" referenced in my last post were fellow employees
at the railroad, not DeLo owners. No one in the community has made me
a promise they weren't able to keep.

I've only heard from one other owner who uses a transmission
installation technique similar to mine, and he does it with the car
level on 4 jack stands. It's pretty obvious that my 10 spline method
will not work with our finer splines. Risk of damaging them without
even realizing it is too great. Big spline transmissions can be pulled
uphill to the block because if they ever become untrue, you'll know it
instantly from the resistance of the bolts (and if you turn the
mounting bolts evenly they don't ever go untrue). Our bolts however
put up *NO* noticeable resistance even if the splines are being destroyed.

My recommendations:
- Take the car to a 3rd party mechanic to install transmission (if
willing mechanic can be found)
- Use a proper transmission jack if doing it yourself
- Seat the transmission with muscle power alone. If the bellhousing
won't go all the way to the block without mechanical assistance, back
the transmission completely out and try again
- Under no circumstances use the mounting bolts or holes to do
anything other than hold an already seated transmission in place

Hopefully someone on the List will learn from my mistakes (except for
those lucky owners with early Vin transmissions!).

Bill Robertson
#5939






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