From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1987
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 8:21 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean For Sale in Rapid City SD
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

2. AW: front main seal tool
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

3. Re: michelin pilot
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Rich A. is famous
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: Let's review: Loss of power (was fuel system values)
From: Justin T Gryder <JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU>

6. Re: front main seal tool
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Looking for an evaporator or pipe
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Auto to Manual
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: changing oil
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Alignment results..
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Twin turbo muffler recommendations?
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Auto Tranny Dip Stick
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. spring social directions???
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Alignment results..
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: front main seal tool
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Tie Rods - almost done
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

17. Re: Auto to Manual
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. led number
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Alignment results..
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

20. RE: Fuel system revisited
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. RE: automatic transmission governor computer research
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. Re: michelin pilot
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>

23. RE: Cooper Tires
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

24. Re: Alignment results..
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>

25. Parting Out Value?
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 19:19:40 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: DeLorean For Sale in Rapid City SD

Just wanted to let you know that there is a Delorean for sale in 
Rapid City SD, VIN#6040, Nov 81. I have seen the car and it's in OK 
shape. If anyone has any questions or would like me to give them more 
details email me privately.




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:20:49 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: front main seal tool

No tool needed or nothing special that you couldn't make on your own.

Been there, did this. Seal is still ok after 10k miles.

Elvis



List,

the shop manual says you need a special tool to insert the front main
crankshaft oil seal (the one with the pulley on it by the muffler).  is this
really
necessary, and if it is, where do i obtain this tool, how much is it, or
does
someone on the list have one i can borrow?  i would pay expenses.

Andy




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 15:33:22 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: michelin pilot

What model Coopers do you have on your car?

Mark V



On Tuesday, April 27, 2004, at 11:34  AM, Dick Ryan wrote:

> Andy
>
> Coopers!!!!  Yes, I know, Coopers????
>
> Mike Substelny has them on his car.  He recommended
> them to me.  I put mine on well over 10,000 miles ago
> and they still look like new.
>
> Now, if you want HIGH PERFORMANCE these MAY not be the
> tires for you.  They are S rated.  BUT, how many times
> have you gone 112 mph for 90 minutes (the standard for
> an S rating)?  Hell, Andy, how many times have you had
> your D up to 112 mph for 2 minutes?
>
> Good ride.  Not noisy.  I like them.
>
> Just my 2¢.
>
> Dick Ryan
>
> PS  Not expensive either.
>
>
>
>
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 20:57:09 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Rich A. is famous

Hello List - I just ran across a online story about people "grrr-ing" 
all manner of things that irritate them.  Rich Acuti made it into the 
big time with the following quote -   "Rich A. has another highway 
Grrr!: I drive an old DeLorean (please spare me the jokes) and I'm 
not interested in running it into the ground, so I usually drive the 
speed limit. I'm also trying to stretch a tank of gas. I realize that 
there are people in a bigger hurry than I am, but I always say "Grrr" 
when I'm in the FAR right lane and people honk, flip me off or give 
me the "stink-eye" when they pass me. Am I an "oblivion"? I thought 
that's what the right lane was for? 

—Rich, you are definitely not an Oblivion. The right lane is where 
you belong when driving slow.  It's those Left-Lane Vigilantes we 
need to be aware of."

Apparently, being an "oblivion" is a bad thing.

Go Rich, go!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 15:46:34 -0400
From: Justin T Gryder <JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU>
Subject: Re: Let's review: Loss of power (was fuel system values)

Rich,

        Can't remember if you said you had an automatic or not.  I had the 
same problem to some of the extent you are decribing.  Hope its not the 
same problem, but mine was an old/worn out torque converter. 


Good luck
Justin,   NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:37:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: front main seal tool

Crankshaft seal is a thin metal frame wrapped in rubber. That tool
avoids two things:
- Bending or distorting the metal frame
- Damaging the rubber facing (lip seal and the facing are all one
piece of rubber)

You can accomplish the same by being gentle and careful:
- Lubricate the new seal, the crankshaft, and the hole in the timing
chain cover
- Turn the old seal around backwards and place it face to face against
the new seal. This will give you something to strike against without
damaging the rubber facing of your new seal
- Make lots of tiny gentle hammer taps around and around (and around
and around) the backside of your old seal, slowly driving the new seal
in. Stop when the new seal is flush with the timing chain cover

Installing the seal is the easy part. Removing the crankshaft pulley
is going to be your problem...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> the shop manual says you need a special tool to insert the front main 
> crankshaft oil seal (the one with the pulley on it by the muffler).
 is this really 
> necessary, and if it is, where do i obtain this tool, how much is
it, or does 
> someone on the list have one i can borrow?  i would pay expenses.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:53:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for an evaporator or pipe

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=108

McMaster ships FedEx as standard operating procedure. Order by 16:00
tomorrow and you'll have it Thursday. 

That "feces like" material is moisture resistant wrap, common on A/C
systems because of the condensation. Sticky, isn't it, even after all
these years...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I recently removed my evaporator for repair/replacement. You can see it
> here:
> 
> http://tg2.vantagep.com/evaporator.jpg
> 
> Just below the black feces-like material you can see the end has broken.
> Does anyone have any intel on this pipe? I've got a guy locally who
will fix
> it but need the pipe to do so. I would also take an old busted
evaporator
> with a good pipe if someone has one.




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 22:04:24 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Auto to Manual

Hi, well my udaye on my car is that the tranny is gone. And being 
that I have very, very limited funs to fix something like the 
tranny, I'm limited in my options. So one question I have is has 
anyone done a converstion from an automatic transmission to a 
manual. I understand that the cost will be very high. But if anyone 
has done this plase email me at DeLorean170_at_dml_aol.com. And also what a 
cost would be to do so.

Thanks, 
Darryl
5898




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 19:53:00 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: changing oil

In a message dated 4/27/04 2:12:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com writes:


> My car has used synthetic oil for the last 10 years.
> I'm due for an oil change and filter even though the oil still looks clean - 
> 6 months. Can I switch to regular oil or should I continue with the 
> synthetic?
> 
> 
> Marv.
> # 17077
> marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 

Modern synthetics and petroleum based oil are completely interchangable with 
no adverse effects.

the question is why not just keep using the synthetic?  I would stick with it 
regardless of the cost difference.  it increases fuel efficiency while 
decreasing emissions, friction and deposits, plus it doesn't burn off as quickly 
when hot.  when cold (initial start-up) it flows faster to vital upper cams and 
valves.  not only that, but it is much better suited to the long oil change 
intervals most DeLoreans experience (such as only changing the oil once a driving 
season).

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:31:57 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Alignment results..

My car was just measured for alignment at my local les shwab. The 
results arent too bad but still bother me a little. 

Front (all in degrees):

Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6  
Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20

Rear (degrees):

Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07

So the front Caster is off quite a bit, and the rear Toe. 
I don't trust Les Shwab to adjust toe on the Rear wheels, so I didnt 
have them do it. And the front toe was good so the car did not 
receive an alignment. 

My car has been having some steering troubles recently with wandering 
and a slight pull to the right. I think the caster is causing the 
pull to the right. 

Would any of these alignment numbers cause unstable steering and 
wandering? The tierod ends, ball joints, steering shaft etc are all 
good. I have new tires with less than 10,000 miles on them. I also 
think the shocks are worn out. If its not the alignment I guess I 
will replace the rack.

I just need some opinions!

thanks,
Adam Price




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 17:02:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Twin turbo muffler recommendations?

I'm running a supertrap shortie's - ok sound and nice fit
into the opening after some 90% turns.

		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 02:35:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Tranny Dip Stick

I just checked my dipstick (Ha Ha). From the stop on the red plastic
handle to the first raised line (the hot line) I measured 26 11/16. To
the next line (the upper warm line) I measured 27 7/8. The next line
(the lower warm line) is 28. The lowest line, the cold line, is 28
7/16. From the plastic stop to the tip of the flat metal piece is 28
9/16. I have my fluid level so that even when hot it never goes above
the hot line. Most of the time it is between the hot line and the
lower warm line. It is not good to overfill, it can cause foaming and
leakage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> This will be a great exercise. I have often thought the auto dip 
> stick was probably not accurate.
> 
> Mine is 26 3/4 inches from the red plastic handle to the full-hot 
> line. I use that line as the full-cold line. Years ago when I 
> believed the full hot line the trans would sometimes slip when cold 
> and show air bubbles in the fluid.
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:01:51 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: spring social directions???

Anyone going to the spring social at PJ Grady's have directions they could 
post? It would be great to get them to the Econo Lodge and then to PJ 
GRady's...I know its a short drive between them but I have never been there and 
directions would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks
Mike C


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 03:04:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Alignment results..

I don't know if I believe the values you got from your alignment shop.
They are all over the place. Either they don't know what they are
doing or your car was in an accident and everythng is out-of-whack.
Your wandering and lead is definately due to alignment. I would go to
another shop and have the alignment rechecked. You should go with the
required values so they know what the car is supposed to be. Take as
much luggage and stuff out of the car as you can, have 1/2 tank of
gas, check the air pressure in the tires before you go. If your car
was lowered it could be why some of these measurements are way off. To
get the rear correct you will need the adjustable lower control arms.
Btw you say the results are not "too" bad. The front castor is
SUPPOSED to be 3 1/2 to 4 degrees positive and yours are 4.3 and 2.6.
This is not adjustable so if it is really that far off you have a problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 1075


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> My car was just measured for alignment at my local les shwab. The 
> results arent too bad but still bother me a little. 
> 
> Front (all in degrees):
> 
> Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
> Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6  
> Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20
> 
> Rear (degrees):
> 
> Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
> Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07
> 
> So the front Caster is off quite a bit, and the rear Toe. 
> I don't trust Les Shwab to adjust toe on the Rear wheels, so I didnt 
> have them do it. And the front toe was good so the car did not 
> receive an alignment. 
> 
> My car has been having some steering troubles recently with wandering 
> and a slight pull to the right. I think the caster is causing the 
> pull to the right. 
> 
> Would any of these alignment numbers cause unstable steering and 
> wandering? The tierod ends, ball joints, steering shaft etc are all 
> good. I have new tires with less than 10,000 miles on them. I also 
> think the shocks are worn out. If its not the alignment I guess I 
> will replace the rack.
> 
> I just need some opinions!
> 
> thanks,
> Adam Price




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 01:35:16 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: front main seal tool

You can do the job with a tool that is similar - but, be sure you 
use something that will leave the seal straight. That tool uses the 
housing as a depth limiter. You need to really clean the sealing 
surface. If the seal surface has ANY grove in it you need to install 
the seal so a different surface location is lined up with the new 
seal if you can. I gave up at the third seal and replaced the pulley 
too. It was fine then. Without the new pulley the seal started to 
leak again after a few thousand miles.

BTW - check the torque for the nut on the crankshaft pulley. You 
will not break that loose with a breaker bar. An impact wrench will 
be required. I used a 150 ft-lb electric 1/2in impact to do the job. 
It took a while to break loose but worked fine. Also, I had to 
loosen the rear fascia bracket to fit the impact wrench in there. 
Don't forget the loctite.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> the shop manual says you need a special tool to insert the front 
main 
> crankshaft oil seal (the one with the pulley on it by the 
muffler).  is this really 
> necessary, and if it is, where do i obtain this tool, how much is 
it, or does 
> someone on the list have one i can borrow?  i would pay expenses.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 03:09:40 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Tie Rods - almost done

Thanx to all who e-mailed me off-list concerning my tie-rod boots.  
Great advice that works!  It seems, however, that I'm stuck again.

When I try to re-attach the arms, I start to turn the nut, and the 
whole ball-joint bolt starts to turn with it inside the boot and 
won't tighten down.  I don't see any way to hold it in place while 
the nut is being installed.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Johnny
5518




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 03:39:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auto to Manual

It can certainly be done. You won't save any money. 

The biggest obstacle is the frame - there is a slight difference in 
the mounting of the shifter and unfortunately it's a welded part. The 
shifter mount for the manual has a bigger hole and is mounted lower 
in the frame. But anything can be unwelded and moved. 

Front-to-rear....You need to repace the pedal box (where the 
gas/brake/clutch pedal/clutch master cylinder mounts), hydraulic 
reservoir, add the hydraulic line, replace the linkage, transmission, 
transmission mounts, flywheel, add a clutch, pressure plate, release 
bearing, clutch fork, pilot bearing, slave cylinder. 

It would usually be a lot less hassle and much cheaper to sell the 
car and buy what you want. I'm not sure about the console plate but 
you'd at least need the shifter boot too. 

I actually have most of the parts to do it out in the garage, and I'm 
sure I could find a hunk of frame around here with the right mounting 
plate in it. It would add up to quite a bit of money. Probably about 
the same as fixing the auto trans. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi, well my udaye on my car is that the tranny is gone. And being 
> that I have very, very limited funs to fix something like the 
> tranny, I'm limited in my options. So one question I have is has 
> anyone done a converstion from an automatic transmission to a 
> manual. I understand that the cost will be very high. But if anyone 
> has done this plase email me at DeLorean170_at_dml_a... And also what a 
> cost would be to do so.
> 
> Thanks, 
> Darryl
> 5898




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 03:51:56 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: led number


Hi everyone!!!
Just wanted to know if there is much difference between the 1156 led bulb, 
and a 1157?
It looks like to me that the 1157 will fit in the tail light just the same 
as the 1156.
Anyways, I wanted to check this before I buy anything. Thanks!!!

Dustin 006746
PS. Shannon Y, Joe O, and I installed my elglo dash kit tonight. It came out 
looking killer.
Thank you Shannon and Joe!!! Ryan has a great product. Thank you also Ryan 
G.

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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 03:53:05 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Alignment results..

Adam - The first time I got Winged1 aligned (at a frame shop, not a 
tire store), I talked to the technician at length about the effect 
that various combinations of numbers have on the car.  You are 
correct in being a little concerned about the caster difference 
between left and right.  A difference of more than 1/2 degree in the 
caster can cause "twitchy" steering, where the slightest movement of 
the wheel results in a complete lane change.  The symptoms get worse 
as the difference gets larger.  My car had an error of about 1/2 
degree, so I considered the "twitchiness" to be "nimble steering".  
Always the optimist!  Most people will tell you that caster is not 
adjustable.  That is not quite true.  The caster can be changed by 
adding shims between the front flat washer on the sway bar / lower 
control arm connection and the forward rubber donut bushing.  This 
pushes the side you put the shims on towards the rear.  The goal is 
to pick the side with the smaller caster, and increase it's value to 
match the other side.  (I believe that I have that right).  A good 
frame shop may be able to estimate the proper thickness of shim to 
achieve the desired readings.  The other option is to make your own 
bushings with different thicknesses for the forward pieces, which 
achieves the same end.  That's what I did - in urethane.  That toe 
value in the rear could be giving you a little of that pull to the 
right.  A positive toe value means that the left rear wheel is 
actually pointed outboard (too many shims) and is trying to steer 
the car towards the right.  Also, the values you show for the front 
toe are positive.  Are you sure about that?  If so, your front 
wheels are pointing outwards a bit, which makes your car indecisive 
as to which direction it wants to go.  I assume they must be 
actually negative.  Aren't these little silver cars cool?  I hope 
this helps ... don't change your rack unless it gets loose and 
sloppy.

My apologies to Jan for not clipping the quote - the values are 
important for reviewing my response.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> My car was just measured for alignment at my local les shwab. The 
> results arent too bad but still bother me a little. 
> 
> Front (all in degrees):
> 
> Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
> Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6  
> Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20
> 
> Rear (degrees):
> 
> Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
> Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07
> 
> So the front Caster is off quite a bit, and the rear Toe. 
> I don't trust Les Shwab to adjust toe on the Rear wheels, so I 
didnt 
> have them do it. And the front toe was good so the car did not 
> receive an alignment. 
> 
> My car has been having some steering troubles recently with 
wandering 
> and a slight pull to the right. I think the caster is causing the 
> pull to the right. 
> 
> Would any of these alignment numbers cause unstable steering and 
> wandering? The tierod ends, ball joints, steering shaft etc are 
all 
> good. I have new tires with less than 10,000 miles on them. I also 
> think the shocks are worn out. If its not the alignment I guess I 
> will replace the rack.
> 
> I just need some opinions!
> 
> thanks,
> Adam Price




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 01:40:59 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel system revisited

Rich, This is one reason I have always said to get the electrical system up
to date with new parts: Alternators, Coils wires and so on. Then a lot of
problems will go away or you won't even know you were going to have them.
Weak fire under pressure ='s nothing, meaning not enough spark to ignite the
fuel.
John





-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel system revisited


I have no idea why my car ran so well after putting the new ignition
coil in yesterday, but that was not the cause of my problem. The car
still starts far easier than it did before but now, again, it runs
terribly.

Symptoms are exactly the same: After 1/2 pedal, the tach jumps all
over the dial, the car bucks and farts and nearly tosses me out of
the seat. I lose acceleration until I back off of the pedal.

All I know for sure is this: -SOMETIMES- the car runs better when the
engine is cool. It has psych'ed me out 4 times in the last few weeks,
thinking that I'd found the problem. As soon as I get hung up in any
kind of traffic where I get enough heat to run the cooling fans, the
engine goes to hell until it sits overnight or gets very cool again.

Dave T. still knows his stuff, but the ignition didn't seem to be the
problem. I have a nice white spark now.

This one's just going to have to wait until Saturday at the Social.

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 01:46:28 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: automatic transmission governor computer research

Sean and other's
The new Automatic governors have not been updated. I got a new one last year
from a customer to update before he installed it. The normal parts that go
back were still the same old parts and no updated modification. So, if you
buy a new one, it should be updated before installing.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: sweitzel_2000 [mailto:sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 12:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] automatic transmission governor computer research


>From the information gleaned from the archives (and google) I came up
with some dated information that claimed a jeep/eagle (chrysler) part
number was in fact the GC used on the D's 4141 renault transmission.
(T1585496). I gave my local Chrysler dealership a jingle this morning
and rattled off that part just to see what their database would spit
out. Needless to say, whatever T1585496 is, it's listed as
a "harness" and has a list of $537 and it's special order. Having
some of the finest pull it yourself junkyards that are stock full of
thousands of 1980's vehicles around here, I'd love to go on a
scavenger hunt and see if I can track down some auto trans GC circuit
boards to have around. (as well as repair my own). What I have not
been able to glean, is what Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle/AMC/Renault vehicles
used the T1585496 part. I'm also still not clear if the GC was used
on different model transmissions other than the 4141 (which I suspect
it was). Anyone out there know what other vehicles i should be on the
lookout for that might contain the GC?

-sean




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 10:16:34 +0200
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
Subject: Re: michelin pilot

I use Cooper Cobra GT as rear tyres.

Regards
VIN5425
Johan
www.tranceponder.se/gfx


---- Original Message ----
From: dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] michelin pilot
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 15:33:22 -0500

>What model Coopers do you have on your car?
>
>Mark V
>
>
>
>On Tuesday, April 27, 2004, at 11:34  AM, Dick Ryan wrote:
>
>> Andy
>>
>> Coopers!!!!  Yes, I know, Coopers????
>>
>> Mike Substelny has them on his car.  He recommended
>> them to me.  I put mine on well over 10,000 miles ago
>> and they still look like new.
>>
>> Now, if you want HIGH PERFORMANCE these MAY not be the
>> tires for you.  They are S rated.  BUT, how many times
>> have you gone 112 mph for 90 minutes (the standard for
>> an S rating)?  Hell, Andy, how many times have you had
>> your D up to 112 mph for 2 minutes?
>>
>> Good ride.  Not noisy.  I like them.
>>
>> Just my 2¢.
>>
>> Dick Ryan
>>
>> PS  Not expensive either.
[moderator snip]



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 07:27:10 -0400
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Cooper Tires

Seems to be comparable to the BFGoodrich tires, but a bit lower in price.
For the best (my opinion) Michelin Pilots are still the only available.

http://www.tiresavings.com/
Matched Set of Coopers for:  

P195/60R14  - $42.00
P235/60R15  - $58.00


http://www.coopertires.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType==Passenger&id=

Cooper Tires
Passenger Tires
Cobra Radial G/T

Tire Size Service Desc. UTQG Sidewall Approved Rim Width Meas. Rim Width Section Width Overall Diameter Tread Width Max. Load Tread Depth 32nds 

P195/60R14  85 T  440 A B  BLK 5.50 - 6.50 6.00 7.62  23.28  6.40 1135 10.5 
P235/60R15  98 T  440 A B  RWL 6.50 - 8.00 7.00 9.15  26.11  7.60 1642 10.5 

Specs: 
50,000 Mile Treadwear Protection Limited Warranty

Performance tread
Increased tire-to-road contact which leads to improvements in treadwear and handling. 
 
Flat tread profile
Optimum footprint shape helps distribute the vehicle load improving handling and overall wear. 
 
M+S Rated  


-----Original Message-----
From: DMCVIN6683 [mailto:dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 4:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] michelin pilot

What model Coopers do you have on your car?

Mark V



[moderator snip]



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 14:13:23 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>
Subject: Re: Alignment results..

Hi Adam

The problem that you are having is caused by the rear toe. Front setting is
ussually based on the rear. So, without the rear set, you shouldn't really
measure the front.
If you don't trust this shop to do the work, why did you go there at all?
Find a place that you can trust and have them set the rear and then front.
Only the toe is adjustable. The pulling and wandering will go away if the
alligment is done properly.
For the caster on the front you might want to check the sway bar bushings
(before you do the alligment). If they are over 22 years old its time to
replace them. They are responsible for the front caster.
Other readings are good, so don't worry about them.
I had Sears to it on my two DeLoreans and they did it right three times. I
just don't trust them with driving my D. I pull in and onto the lift. I told
them that noone drives my D but me. They said no problem :)

Good luck
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>


> My car was just measured for alignment at my local les shwab. The
> results arent too bad but still bother me a little.
>
> Front (all in degrees):
>
> Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
> Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6
> Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20
>
> Rear (degrees):
>
> Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0
> Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07
>




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 07:20:50 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Parting Out Value?

As we all know, parts for Deloreans are natually rare in nature, 
some more than others, i.e. Driver side front Fender. Sometimes you 
can buy a car for a small price because its damaged heavly on one 
side or something but the rest is just fine, however why don't these 
people just part the car out, are they just not aware that its value 
can be salvaged this way? Heres my question, if one person was to, 
part out his entire car, and it was in excellent shape. What sort of 
values can we afix to these parts? Example, what if I wanted to get 
rid of my engine to swap with something else, what would you guys 
pay for a original delorean engine? Don't they go for at some 
vendors for like $7k? Panels and sort, i've heard of driver side 
panels in upwards of 5K. Just curious on what is the "Fair market 
value" for these "used" major parts.

Sean




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