From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1989
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2004 5:36 PM

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

2. Re: Name that foam...
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

3. Re: Alignment results..
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Re: Alignment results..
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Alignment questions!
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: My cars price?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. For Sale: 81 Delorean (Michigan)
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_wideopenwest.com>

10. RE: Name that foam... FOUND?
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

11. Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: For Sale: 81 Delorean (Michigan)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Archive Search
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

17. Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Alignment questions!
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

19. Pigeon Forge or Bust
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 18:50:41 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Hi All,

So, things are slowly getting back up to speed on the project.  I've drained my old fuel and coolant, and started gathering things I'll need to finish up in the next few weeks.  I will have more time as of May 7th, as I'll be laid off for the third time in a year.  So much for cash flow, but I don't think I have too many more things to purchase.  Got lucky there.

I've spent most of the last week on snipe hunts for various little parts.  First off, is the mufflers -- my current ones are just too loud.  I have a twin turbo, which uses these very tiny Walker 21959 mufflers.  They are the standard oval types, 2" pipe, with a center inlet and offset outlet.  The catch is, they have a body which is only 9" long.  I -might- be able to squeeze a 10" body in there, but it would be awfully tight.  I have had very little luck finding a suitable replacement, so I called up Walker's tech support line to see if Walker offers a quiter version of these mufflers.  The tech assured me that these already -are- the QuietFlow model, the quietest models they had.  So much for that route, and I've pretty much struck out on all of the other replacement mufflers I've looked at.  Dick Ryan gave me the name and number of a place in Ohio where he had his custom built, so that may be an option, although a pricey one.  Matthew Olans suggested the Ford catalytic converter option that Island now sells, but that's even pricier though, at around $1000 -each- cat.

A lot of time on Google has steered me towards investigating resonated exhaust tips.  These tips have an internal baffle, not unlike a glasspack muffler.  They help reduce some of the 'brapping' and droning noise in the cabin.  I'll hate to loose my current tips, as they look fantastic and are made from billet stainless.  However, I'd rather have a decent interior noise level over looks these days.  I've started searching for tips, but haven't found anything that I've really liked yet.  If anyone out there is using some nice resonated tips and could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.

The last little time-consumer has been building my new Delco alternator.  I bought a used version of the CS130 Delco alternator on eBay that is sold by a few of the vendors.  It's the little 105 amp version, but it has the correct mounting ears that don't necessitate any cutting of the brackets.  I was going to build it up into the 140 amp version, but after finding a brand new CS130 in a box in my garage, I may just swap the new internals to the other case and save the $$$.  I honestly have no idea where this other new alt came from, but if you've seen my garage, you know I have only a rough idea of what is in there and where.  Stuff just seems to appear from nowhere (and unfortunately, disappear to from whence it came).  A 105 amp alternator should be plenty except when I'm running the CSP12180, but that is only going to be for brief periods I'm sure.  Hopefully, that will be done soon and installed on the car.

This weekend, weather permitting, I hope to get the new driver's door installed and do a bunch of the little things on my list.  I'll keep y'all posted on the progress.

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 18:18:04 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Name that foam...

I used the rubber insulator you put on your water pipes in the basement 
so they don't sweat on my old 1981 Ford Econoline.

There are two types of this pipe insulation, there is a hard foam type 
and a soft almost rubber type, i used the soft rubber type. I cut it in 
half the long way and wrapped it around the heater core with some tape 
and it resembled the factory insulation well.

Mark V


On Wednesday, April 28, 2004, at 04:19  PM, Steve Stankiewicz wrote:

> Hi Travis.  If it's what I'm thinking of, you shoudl
> be able to find it under "open cell foam".
>
> Steve
> --- Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com> wrote:
>> Can anyone tell me what the name of the foam is that
>> covers that A/C vent
>> flaps (aka valves) to seal them off? I thought I
>> could Google it but I'm
>> having a hard time even phrasing what it is.
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 23:14:49 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alignment results..

My car has had the front suspension lowered by 1 inch according to 
the previous owner so its shouldnt be 5 1/2" anymore. I have new 
shocks for the front and rear on the way to me now, and I am going to 
change out the front sway bar bushings before getting it aligned.

I will hold off on the rack and see if the above fixes it first.

thanks!
adam price


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Looks like your car is too high - it needs to be 5 1/2 inches in 
the 
> front. If you have the service bulletin it explains all that. I 
don't 
> believe the readings you have are accurate. Toe is adjustable and 
the 
> front caster somewhat with the front link bushings and some spacers 
> but you need someone that understands all this first to make the 
> correct adjustments. If you want a quick lesson, check out the 
> following link.
> http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > My car was just measured for alignment at my local les shwab. The 
> > results arent too bad but still bother me a little. 
> > 
> > Front (all in degrees):
> > 
> > Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
> > Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6  
> > Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20
> > 
> > Rear (degrees):
> > 
> > Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
> > Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07
> > 
> > So the front Caster is off quite a bit, and the rear Toe. 
> > I don't trust Les Shwab to adjust toe on the Rear wheels, so I 
> didnt 
> > have them do it. And the front toe was good so the car did not 
> > receive an alignment. 
> > 
> > My car has been having some steering troubles recently with 
> wandering 
> > and a slight pull to the right. I think the caster is causing the 
> > pull to the right. 
> > 
> > Would any of these alignment numbers cause unstable steering and 
> > wandering? The tierod ends, ball joints, steering shaft etc are 
all 
> > good. I have new tires with less than 10,000 miles on them. I 
also 
> > think the shocks are worn out. If its not the alignment I guess I 
> > will replace the rack.
> > 
> > I just need some opinions!
> > 
> > thanks,
> > Adam Price




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 23:51:52 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

Ugh...it's always something stupid.

I have replaced the primary distributor wire. The one that goes to 
the coil. That was the problem. Apparently it was faulty.

I've driven the car all afternoon yesterday, to and from work today 
and nary a sputter and smooth power. That's several more trips than 
all my test drives from earlier attempts so I'm pretty sure I got it 
this time. I wanted to wait until I had some miles on it before I 
made another false announcement.

The problem is, I had to cobble it together from scrap wire so I'll 
probably just replace the entire set with something higher quality.

It's amazing how much easier yet, that it starts even on top of the 
new coil. Just in time for the Spring Social too. I didn't want to 
limp in to the parking lot sputtering like a derelict. I've spent the 
afternoon washing, blending, polishing and detailing.

Tomorrow, I'll be all over the engine compartment like a bad rash 
with a can of "Engine Brite" and an electric toothbrush.

Thanks for all the help,

Rich A.
#5335




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 01:49:36 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Alignment results..

This is one (another?) case where the manual is just wrong. A stock 
DeLorean will not measure 5-1/2 inches at the crossmember without 
several hundred pounds of weight in the trunk. 5-1/2" is about right 
for a lowered car, of course it depends on how much lowered. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> My car has had the front suspension lowered by 1 inch according to 
> the previous owner so its shouldnt be 5 1/2" anymore. I have new 
> shocks for the front and rear on the way to me now, and I am going 
to 
> change out the front sway bar bushings before getting it aligned.
> 
> I will hold off on the rack and see if the above fixes it first.
> 
> thanks!
> adam price
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
> wrote:
> > Looks like your car is too high - it needs to be 5 1/2 inches in 
> the 
> > front. If you have the service bulletin it explains all that. I 
> don't 
> > believe the readings you have are accurate. Toe is adjustable and 
> the 
> > front caster somewhat with the front link bushings and some 
spacers 
> > but you need someone that understands all this first to make the 
> > correct adjustments. If you want a quick lesson, check out the 
> > following link.
> > http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
> > 
> > Harold McElraft - 3354

> > > thanks,
> > > Adam Price




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 05:03:07 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Alignment questions!

I have heard that the maximum amount of shims for the rear alignemnt 
is 5. Is there a minimum number of shims? What would the expected toe-
in be with 5 shims and without any shims? 

Also a shop near where I live that works on deloreans told me that 
bad shocks are usually a cause of rear misalignment. My shocks are 
due for replacement, but the left toe seems too excessive to be 
caused by shocks alone. 

As for the front castors being messed up I really dont understand it 
at all. Castor can be adjusted by shimming the sway bar to lower arm 
connection, but this is not a "factory" recommendation?? 

We some cars actually built at the factory with this "lopsidedness", 
or is this a result of wear and/or damage to the front suspension? 

Its also possible that the previous owner cut the front springs 
unevenly, could this cause a caster difference as well?

Thanks for answering my questions! But I have more: where do you guys 
in the northwest take your cars for alignments? Nowhere in Oregon 
seems to be able to handle it right now.

thanks!!
adam


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Adam - The first time I got Winged1 aligned (at a frame shop, not a 
> tire store), I talked to the technician at length about the effect 
> that various combinations of numbers have on the car.  You are 
> correct in being a little concerned about the caster difference 
> between left and right.  A difference of more than 1/2 degree in 
the 
> caster can cause "twitchy" steering, where the slightest movement 
of 
> the wheel results in a complete lane change.  The symptoms get 
worse 
> as the difference gets larger.  My car had an error of about 1/2 
> degree, so I considered the "twitchiness" to be "nimble steering".  
> Always the optimist!  Most people will tell you that caster is not 
> adjustable.  That is not quite true.  The caster can be changed by 
> adding shims between the front flat washer on the sway bar / lower 
> control arm connection and the forward rubber donut bushing.  This 
> pushes the side you put the shims on towards the rear.  The goal is 
> to pick the side with the smaller caster, and increase it's value 
to 
> match the other side.  (I believe that I have that right).  A good 
> frame shop may be able to estimate the proper thickness of shim to 
> achieve the desired readings.  The other option is to make your own 
> bushings with different thicknesses for the forward pieces, which 
> achieves the same end.  That's what I did - in urethane.  That toe 
> value in the rear could be giving you a little of that pull to the 
> right.  A positive toe value means that the left rear wheel is 
> actually pointed outboard (too many shims) and is trying to steer 
> the car towards the right.  Also, the values you show for the front 
> toe are positive.  Are you sure about that?  If so, your front 
> wheels are pointing outwards a bit, which makes your car indecisive 
> as to which direction it wants to go.  I assume they must be 
> actually negative.  Aren't these little silver cars cool?  I hope 
> this helps ... don't change your rack unless it gets loose and 
> sloppy.
> 
> My apologies to Jan for not clipping the quote - the values are 
> important for reviewing my response.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 12:11:42 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

Rich A.

Did the new coil wire fix your tach flickering?

If so, can someone explain to me(us) how a bad coil wire could 
cause, "...the tach flickers even when parked and idling."

My tach flickers at idle too.  I will replace my coil wire let you 
all know.

Dave and 6530




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 02:40:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: My cars price?

Never mind the price, if the car won't move most people won't even
touch it at any price! IMHO with the work you have done on the car,
your description of the condition, and the work remaining I would
estimate the fair market value of your car to be between $7,000 to
$10,000. This estimate is on the high, optomistic side. It will take
at least $5,000 to get it up to the level of a "good" driver. This is
assuming an acurate description of it's present condition, all the
previous work was done correctly, and all additional work to be
proformed by qualified labor and "correct" parts. The trans can cost
around $3,000, the seats and dash $1,000, The exhaust leak, engine
cover, and other little things can easily be another $1,000. When you
can't even test drive a car a prospective buyer can't try the
steering, brakes, suspension, etc. He is really buying a
"pig-in-the-poke" meaning there is no good way to really know exactly
what is wrong and right with the car so he will assume it needs
everything. The best way out of this is to store the car and save up
enough to get the trans going so at least you can sell a running car.
Cosmetics are important but a car MUST be able to move or it is just a
pile of parts that looks like a car!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Well, I have a 1981 Oct built DeLorean. The car has 37,092 miles on 
> it. It is my dream to own it, however since still being in college 
> and only having a part time job my funds for the car are very, very 
> limited. I bought the car in 2001 for 16,000. And since have put 
> repaires into the car that would bring my total investment to around 
> 22,000. I love this car, and don;t want to let it go. It hurts just 
> seeing it sit there. But has fate would have it, and also god hates 
> me, the big one hit and now I have no funds to fix the car... well I 
> could afford the parts, but not the labor too. Anyone who has read 
> any of my posts now knows that my transmission is gone. The car 
> still is mobile, but very little. The tras slips, and has begun 
> to "smoke". I always wanted an 83' 5-speed, and one thought was to 
> convert the transmisson but I will not have the funds to do so. And 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 04:22:11 -0000
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_wideopenwest.com>
Subject: For Sale: 81 Delorean (Michigan)

For sale: 81 Delorean, #6707 - Detroit Metro area. 11,080 miles. 
Great shape, very original - only modifications are update items 
such as relays, lockzilla keyless locks, fuel pickup from SpecialT, 
interior light switch, and new Michelin tires.  New fuel pump, 
engine gone through and valves checked recently, new cap/plugs/etc.  
Automatic with Gray interior.  Clean throughout.  Any interest, 
please drop me an email.  Thanks!

Pete




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 09:14:47 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Name that foam... FOUND?

http://tinyurl.com/369a9

It comes in rolls 1/8" x 6" x 72".
 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 14:32:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

A loose battery cable and/or loose alternator belt can cause the same 
problem

Martin

drdhdmd wrote:

>If so, can someone explain to me(us) how a bad coil wire could 
>cause, "...the tach flickers even when parked and idling."
>
>My tach flickers at idle too.  I will replace my coil wire let you 
>all know.
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 13:39:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

Well, I know that since that wire feeds the whole distributor, as it 
was breaking down electrically, it was not passing electricity as 
well as it should, so I was have no-fires or mis-fires. How that 
translates into "tach flicker", I'm not exactly sure.

The tach takes it's input from one side of the coil, one of the small 
connections. The high-tension wire to the distributor is an output. 
The coil should be transmitting regularly, and the tach I would think 
should be steady. The voltage is just not travelling down the wire 
like it should, so how it causes the tach to jump I don't really 
know. Obviously I'm missing some connection between primary and 
secondary ignition or how the tach ties into this.

How old are your wires? If they're old, replace the set. Also check 
the small leads on the coil for cleanliness and tightness.

Rich A.
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Rich A.
> 
> Did the new coil wire fix your tach flickering?
> 
> If so, can someone explain to me(us) how a bad coil wire could 
> cause, "...the tach flickers even when parked and idling."
> 
> My tach flickers at idle too.  I will replace my coil wire let you 
> all know.
> 
> Dave and 6530




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 16:48:20 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

Well, my theory (and I know some don't believe that) is, that
when an ignition wire is broken, the voltage rises so high till
the spark can jump. The energy is stored in the coil and when you stop
the current in the primary coil, the current still wants to flow.
Now the primary circuit is open and the current can't flow anymore under
regular circumstances. The magnetic field in the coil induces a higher
voltage in the secondary winding (also in the primary, but the switch in the
primary circuit (points or transistors) can handle this). The voltage rises
until the field strenght lets the spark jump at the weakest point (ionized
air...therefore there's a difference in the max voltage if you have
different air/gas mixtures around the spark plug). This should be the spark
plug (therefore when you make the gap wider you get a higher voltage).

Now let's say your main wire is broken - you have a second gap where the
spark must jump over. The result is that the induced voltage in the coil is
higher than under regular circumstances. The high voltage is also induced in
the primary winding and may jump in the primary circuit somewhere. These
extra needles that the tacho will see let it jump/move like crazy.
And the car sputters because the spark jumps somewhere else but where it
should - at your spark plugs !

Elvis & 6548


> Rich A.
> 
> Did the new coil wire fix your tach flickering?
> 
> If so, can someone explain to me(us) how a bad coil wire could 
> cause, "...the tach flickers even when parked and idling."
> 
> My tach flickers at idle too.  I will replace my coil wire let you 
> all know.
> 
> Dave and 6530
> 
> 

-- 
NEU : GMX Internet.FreeDSL
Ab sofort DSL-Tarif ohne Grundgebühr: http://www.gmx.net/dsl




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 15:37:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

I've said it before, and I'll say it again now: 9 out of 10 vehicle
running problems are electrical. People love to tear into a fuel
system whenever something goes wrong (and yes, there CAN be fuel
supply problems, especially with the DeLo in tank pickup), but since
it's so easy and inexpensive to check the electricals, why not start
there? Even CIS and Lambda malfunctions can have an electrical basis
(microswitches, O2 sensor, etc). The only time I ever had to push my
DeLo to the side of the road was an electrical problem with the fuel
pump (lost ground -- inertia switch bypassed by PO).

Glad to hear you're ready for Mid Atlantic now. Say "Hi" to everyone
for me, and tell them I'll see them in Pigeon Forge (in a Lincoln if
nothing else).

My latest victim -- er, clutch disc -- was just delivered as I typed
this message...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ugh...it's always something stupid.
> 
> I have replaced the primary distributor wire. The one that goes to 
> the coil. That was the problem. Apparently it was faulty.
> 
> I've driven the car all afternoon yesterday, to and from work today 
> and nary a sputter and smooth power. That's several more trips than 
> all my test drives from earlier attempts so I'm pretty sure I got it 
> this time. I wanted to wait until I had some miles on it before I 
> made another false announcement.
> 
> The problem is, I had to cobble it together from scrap wire so I'll 
> probably just replace the entire set with something higher quality.
> 
> It's amazing how much easier yet, that it starts even on top of the 
> new coil. Just in time for the Spring Social too. I didn't want to 
> limp in to the parking lot sputtering like a derelict. I've spent the 
> afternoon washing, blending, polishing and detailing.
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll be all over the engine compartment like a bad rash 
> with a can of "Engine Brite" and an electric toothbrush.
> 
> Thanks for all the help,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 07:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: 81 Delorean (Michigan)

How much are selling it for?
Thanks, 

--- pbartusek <pbmain_at_dml_wideopenwest.com> wrote:
> For sale: 81 Delorean, #6707 - Detroit Metro area.
> 11,080 miles. 
> Great shape, very original - only modifications are
> update items 
> such as relays, lockzilla keyless locks, fuel pickup
> from SpecialT, 
> interior light switch, and new Michelin tires.  New
> fuel pump, 
> engine gone through and valves checked recently, new
> cap/plugs/etc.  
> Automatic with Gray interior.  Clean throughout. 
> Any interest, 
> please drop me an email.  Thanks!
> 
> Pete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 18:35:48 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Archive Search


Can anyone let me know how to successfully search the archives for 
specific topics?  I remember awhile back there was a post that said 
to use google?  How is this done again? 

Thanks!
Greg
#6840

 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 09:40:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Loss of Power: Finally fixed?

Perhaps you could enter your Lincoln in the show as 
"modified" DeLorean.  It could be parked right
alonside the D-Rex.  Nah, bad idea.  Rich would
probably try to crush it.

--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
 I'll see them in Pigeon Forge (in a Lincoln if
 nothing else).



	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 09:11:29 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Alignment questions!

Where in Oregon are you? Salem here.
>
> Thanks for answering my questions! But I have more: where do you guys
> in the northwest take your cars for alignments? Nowhere in Oregon
> seems to be able to handle it right now.
>
> thanks!!
> adam
>
Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
http://alessandros120.com/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 21:32:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Pigeon Forge or Bust

You fail to understand: even though they are vastly superior vehicles,
a Mark V is my second choice (Pigeon Forge *IS* a DeLorean event).

I've been closely examining the fit between my lastest victim -- er,
clutch disc -- and the alignment tool. For the first 1/4"-1/2" it is
indeed very possible to be in the splines yet still not fit 100%. Held
up to the light, you can see that there's a surprising amount of
wiggle room at that point. The tool easily replicates my twofold problem:
- Slight angle downwards
- Slight misalignment, with too much pressure on one side of the splines
I think I've been relying too much on the bellhousing bolt holes. They
are not a tight 10mm fit (only hold the transmission and engine
together, not in alignment). With jacks at far ends of the engine and
transmission, and loose fitting rods through the bellhousing, I am
exerting too much downward pressure on the input shaft, and never
recover as I pull it through (off to one side too, and never recover
from that either). A 10 spline disc is strong enough to orient the
input shaft without damaging itself. A 28 spline definitely is not.

When installing a 10 spline transmission all you have to do is pay
attention to torque on the mounting bolts. If it binds, resistance on
a bolt will tell you when and where, allowing you to compensate on the
opposite side. And as I said, the disc is not damaged in the process.
A 28 spline can NOT do the same. There is absolutely no noticeable
change in bolt resistance if it binds (trust me -- I've done it twice
without realizing it).

For the price of the damaged clutch discs I could have bought a proper
transmission jack...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Perhaps you could enter your Lincoln in the show as 
> "modified" DeLorean.  It could be parked right
> alonside the D-Rex.  Nah, bad idea.  Rich would
> probably try to crush it.
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------