From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1994
Date: Monday, May 03, 2004 9:55 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean door light switches
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Delorean Mid Atlantic Spring Socail - update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Pigeon Forge
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Door Latch Rattles on Passenger side
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

5. New owner seeking parts & advice
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

6. Re: Pigeon Forge
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>

7. Re: Cheap British Switches
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: Horsepower vs Torque
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Hard/No Cold Start
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

10. Exhaust manifold gasket... replaced!!!
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Black and Grey Paint
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

12. RE: Giugiaro's Toyota
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Filling the cooling system - help!
From: "delorean_pilot" <delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Anyone have 2946
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: high idle at start up
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. RE: Hard/No Cold Start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. RE: high idle at start up
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Door Latch Rattles on Passenger side
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: New owner seeking parts & advice
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Pics of #2894
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Filling the cooling system - help!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Hard/No Cold Start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: led number
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. fenders/quarter panels for sale...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

25. Closing your doors from the outside
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 15:36:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean door light switches

I do not see any problem with them. If you look at the "pin" switches
that the domestic car companies use they are just pieces of round
metal without a housing. On many circuits where you are controling a
ground it is common not to see a housing. BTW controling the ground on
the courtesy light circuit is just about an industry standard. It
makes it easy to control a light circuit from multiple switches. In
fact it is about the only circuit on domestic cars that is ground
controled. If you think about it at least the parts are brass, they
can't corrode like the steel pin switches.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Those flat pieces of metal ARE the switch. Don't even have a housing
> around them. Quality, eh?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 15:50:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Mid Atlantic Spring Socail - update

I was handling the door adjustments for the day. It seems that there
is less and less of a need for it. In the past many times adjustments
were made to correct for weak struts. This would cause further
adjustments when the struts were replaced. Now before I do any
adjustments I try a new strut. Many times that eliminates the need for
any adjustment. (It was handy being at Rob's, I had a supply of
struts!) Now I also check and adjust the locking pins for the doors
with the extra time I would have spent on the torsion bars. 
 The big lesson I want to share is that I also check the air pressure
in the tires and the brake lights. (A mini safety check) I found that
for the most part everyone's lights worked but the tire pressures were
all over the place. I challange EVERYONE to go out to their car, look
at the decal on the inside of the glove box in the dash, and check
their tire pressures. This is the single most important thing an owner
can do for tire life, ride handling, and safety. You don't have to be
mechanicaly inclined to do it, all you need is a decent tire gauge. In
fact you should be checking EVERY car you drive at least once a month.
Don't forget to check the spare. Do it on a weekend, before you drive
the car. It is also a good time to check all the fluid levels. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Yesterday was the Mid Atlantic club's spring social, and it turned out
> to be a great event!   I will be posting pictures and updates to the
> club website in a few days for everyong to see.
> 
> Thanks to everyone who attended, and special thanks to Rob & Debby
> Grady, Dan D., and everyone else who helped put the event together.  
> 
> Kevin Abato
> Vin# 16680
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 11:58:46 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge

In a message dated 5/2/2004 7:59:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com writes:
Is John Delorean going to be at Pigeon Forge? Just wondering.

Is John Coming?????

Right now I have to say no but who knows.

We are still talking.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 12:14:27 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Door Latch Rattles on Passenger side

Hi all,
     I am getting frustrated at how my passenger door rattles on virtually 
any rough spot on the road or highway that I hit.   I am almost 100% positive 
that it is the door latches that are wiggling and rattling making the noise.   
The door shuts and opens fine.   When I have a passenger push outward on the 
door when I am driving the rattling noise goes away.   The minute they let go it 
comes back.   I guess my question is would adjusting the latch linkage fix 
this problem (not sure I need to do it since the door opens and closes fine), or 
do I need to order a new set of door latches for the passenger side?   I am 
willing to do anything to eliminate the noise.

Thanks, 
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 17:18:29 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: New owner seeking parts & advice

Hello folks,

My DeLorean is back home! '81 #5447. Made the 15+ hour drive from
Sacramento with no problems. Well, except for the existing problems,
which I now need to fix. If anyone can give me advice on one or more
of these issues, I would greatly appreciate it. On some of these I've
already found a lot of articles and am pouring through them, but
additional advice or links to articles would be greatly appreciated.

1. The "fan fail" light comes on when the temp approaches 220. Car
hasn't gone above 220 yet even when sitting in McDonalds drive through
for 15 minutes but I still want to fix this right away.

2. The A/C doesn't blow cold air. I think the compressor is coming on
- not 100% positive. The air does begin blowing pretty good once I
flip it to max, it's just not cold. May just need a recharge. Any
advice in troubleshooting this would be great. At the least I'd like
to make sure everything is working well, so when I take it in for a
recharge they can check for leaks & charge it and I can be on my way.
I certainly don't want Joe's Random Garage running troubleshooting on
this car. 

3. No heater. Doesn't work at all. Somewhat lower priority right now.

4. I've got the "clutch fluid leaking under the carpet on the driver's
side" problem. Previous owner did say he had to top it off every few
months so I think it's a minor leak. I remember reading an article
about this and will have to go dig it up. Any advice? Also advice on
getting the carpet up without harming it (does it just pull up?) would
be great. 

5. The car has a hot start problem of some sort. It seems very minor;
if I work the gas pedal a bit I can get her going. Sometimes I have to
hold the gas all the way in. I've always been able to get it started
with a few tries, but it's annoying and embarassing. When she does
start, the engine sometimes takes a bit to really get going. I don't
know how to explain it other than it seems like the RPMs are
abnormally low, and it shakes the whole car. Old cars used to do
something similar to this after you turned them off (they didn't want
to shut down all the way). So it's like that, only it happens right
when I start it if the engine is hot. When cold she fires right up
without a problem.

6. There's a fuel problem. When the tank gets below ~1/2 and I make a
right turn, she loses power instantly. The effect is similar to when
someone first learns to drive a clutch and lets it out with low RPMs.
The engine doesn't die but it pulls hard, then releases, then pulls
hard, then releases. Only happens for a second then once I get
straightened out things are fine. If I take the turn very, very
slowly, it won't do it. If the tank is above 1/2 it never does it.


Now for the minor stuff:

7. The two plungers that detect if the driver's door is closed are
missing. Where can I buy replacements?

8. The front struts that lift the hood are shot. Where can I buy
replacements?

9. The rear struts that lift the louvers are missing. Where can I buy
replacements?

10. The interior light doesn't work. For that matter, how do I turn it
on? Maybe it does work and I just don't know it. Or maybe it just
needs a new bulb.

11. Headliner is sagging in the center & rear. Previous owner replaced
left & right sides and they look great.

12. Power antenna is broken.

13. Mode switch is leaking. I am rebuilding it now from an article I
found.

THANK YOU for any advice you can give me on one or more of these
issues!

-Ryan




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 12:44:48 -0500
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge

Nope. He originally said he was coming, but then had something else come up
in the same time period as the show. He wasn't specific as to what it might
be.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 11:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Pigeon Forge


> Is John Delorean going to be at Pigeon Forge? Just wondering.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 18:20:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cheap British Switches

Let's be honest -- NONE of the switches on the DeLorean are anything
to write home about, including the troublesome headlight master
switch. Factory lever lights disintegrate. Those who can reassemble a
defroster switch are elevated to guru status. As a new owner I'd have
expected more from a car MSRP'd with a Porsche. Now of course they're
just an inconvenient part of preservation ownership (better switches
would  have made our lives easier but we work with the car as built
and keep on truckin').

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I don't know...the glovebox light /engine compartment light plunger 
> switches have housings, and they break all the time...I don't think I'd 
> want any more brittle housings where they weren't needed.
> 
> -Josh
> VIN 5102
> VIN 15964
> and the rest...
> 
> 
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> >Those flat pieces of metal ARE the switch. Don't even have a housing
> >around them. Quality, eh?
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >  
> >
> >>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> >>I fixed it. It turns out, there are 2 pieces of flat metal where the
> >>    
> >>
> >wires
> >  
> >
> >>plug on to, the PO had mounted them both on the back of the switch,
> >>    
> >>
> >so it
> >  
> >
> >>was a constant connection. I removed one piece and mounted it to the
> >>    
> >>
> >screw
> >  
> >
> >>that holds the switch in. It works now, thanks guys!
> >>
> >>Alex Wolf
> >>#4608
> >>www.deloreanowners.com
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 18:55:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Horsepower vs Torque

Yes -- laugh, laugh, roll eyes, roll eyes.

Remember: this thread started Re: damaging a Renault transmission. My
contention, then and now, is a high rev'ing turbocharged small
displacement engine does not produce very much torque. It's a
mathematical certainty. I'm less impressed with 20 some odd little
splines that can survive 200 Ft Lbs than I am with 10 big ones that
can survive more than 400.

That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
"only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 Ft
Lbs of Torque).

I do have a spare high compression Ford 460 you might be able to
shoehorn back there...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Wow..  Can I put one of those in my DeLorean??   What
> would the 0-60, and 1/4 mile times be?  
> 
> :)
> 
> --- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > I like to raise uninitiated eyebrows with the
> > locomotives my employer
> > used for many decades (electric traction motors I
> > know, but the shock
> > value is the same). 600 max HP. Doesn't sound like
> > much, does it? But
> > they produced that at 700 RPM's. In other words,
> > they exerted more
> > than 4,500 Ft Lbs of Torque. That generates more
> > than enough
> > electricity to pull 5 1/4 *MILLION* lbs of freight.
> <SNIP>
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 17:18:54 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Hard/No Cold Start

    Hello all,
               I would really like to get my car out for the season but I have a small 
problem. I can't get my car to start. It will crank and crank over but doesn't want
to start. I tried spraying a little starting fluid in and it started and ran fine up until
I turned it off. I tried to start it again today and it just cranks and cranks again.
I tried checking the thermo-time switch by unplugging it and putting a jumper 
wire in and grounding it - still no start. Also checked the fuel pump by putting
a jumper wire in the relay harness and it ran fine. What else do I need to check
or do? Any advice would be appreciated. 

                  Thanks in advance..............Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 22:55:37 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Exhaust manifold gasket... replaced!!!

I finally replaced my driver's side exhaust manifold gasket and what 
a difference!!! It sounds like a car again!

I was surprized at how easy it was really. The most difficult thing 
was the top-most flange nut. But wasnt too bad using a jointed socket 
extension. Not one stud broke! All the nuts came off no problem 
except for one and that one the stud came out with the nut attached.

The studs werent even that rusted, in fact 5 of them I would consider 
reusable. But I didnt reuse any.

Also it looks to me that the leaking gasket may have been damaged 
during installation by whoever installed it long ago.. And the new 
one-piece gaskets are awesome!

adam price
16683




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 18:45:04 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Black and Grey Paint

Hello group.

I was wondering if anyone knew of a good spray paint match to use on all of the black areas of the car?  Is it flat or semi-gloss?  How about a match for the grey areas?

Thanks,
Jace
VIN 3488



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 16:51:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: RE: Giugiaro's Toyota

Where can pictures of this car be seen? You guys keep talking about it but not where you saw it. I've looked all around the net for pics of it and have come up empty handed. I wouldn't mind going to a newstand to see it either if necessary... I'm just curious now after this dialogue. -Louie



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 00:22:02 -0000
From: "delorean_pilot" <delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Filling the cooling system - help!

My D developed a leak in one of the fittings or hose connections this 
Winter and all the water/antifreeze has leaked out. Now that Spring 
is here it's time to refill and test the system. Can I do this or is 
it best to have the car towed to the local monkey man? Is there 
something to this task that would stymie a mechanic who has never 
worked on a D?




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 00:48:01 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Anyone have 2946

If anyone on the list owns 2946, I want to ask you something so email
me off list at doctorDHD(at)aol.com

Thanks,

Dave & 6530

ps I had a great time and learned alot at the Spring Social. 




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 21:22:01 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: high idle at start up

In a message dated 5/2/04 10:02:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
advantics_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> My baby starts now, but idles a little high at about 1200 rpm. It 
> will run fine for a few minutes  then it gets a little ruff and then 
> wants to die if you don't give it gas. I tested the idle speed switch 
> and it is working. How do I tell if the idle speed motor is working 
> or not? Thanks in advance.
> 
> John 5326 & 1383

the idle speed motor should be purring like a kitten while the car is running.
how did you test the idle speed switch?  
sounds to me like either the control pressure regulator or the idle speed 
motor are stuck, or you have a vacuum leak that gets worse as the car warms up 
until the car won't stay running anymore.

here is what you should do:
1.  first check the idle speed switch by removing it from the car and putting 
it on a multimeter (it's hard to test with a meter on the car).  make sure 
the meter shows open and closed.  with the pins on the switch, try tapping the 
switch with a wrench in both the open and closed position. if the needle on the 
switch wavers at all, replace the switch.  it is probably intermittent.  the 
switch isn't your (whole) problem anyway though.

2.  with a good idle speed switch installed, turn the key to the on position 
in your ignition and move the throttle so it makes the idle switch trip on and 
off.  do you hear a dull clicking coming from the back of the fuel 
distributer (the ignition advance solenoid )?  if not, you need to get that fixed or 
else your car will experience ignition advance when the car is fully warmed up. 
check all of your vacuum hoses and make sure they are routed correctly.  any 
questionable hoses should be replaced.

3. when the car is running, try spraying some starting fuel all around the 
engine, listening for engine changes between squirts.  this can help you 
pinpoint a bad vacuum leak.  concentrate on the driver's side of the engine where all 
the vacuum hoses and the idle speed motor piping are.  the passenger side 
won't have any leaks unless the manifold isn't sitting properly (and then the car 
probably wouldn't run!).

4.  while you are at it, if you are sure the car isn't getting ignition 
advance at full temperature, check your timing.  that won't solve the problem but 
it could help smooth things out.

5.  if you have a fuel pressure gauge (specially for Bosch K-Jet), you may 
want to install it while the engine is cold and then observe your control 
pressure as the engine warms up.  perhaps your CPR is dead?  

sounds to me more like you have a dead idle speed motor, bad wiring for it, 
or a dead idle ECU (rare). it is maybe stuck in an open (higher) position, 
which lets more air than is necessary upon start up.  then as the engine warms up, 
the air doesn't change in relation to the fuel (from the CPR) and it kills 
the motor.   remember - your 'gas pedal' isn't a gas pedal - it's an AIR pedal - 
when you hit the gas, the car runs better because you just cracked the 
throttle - the only other way for air to get into the motor. i might be wrong but 
that makes sense to me. 

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 21:54:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Hard/No Cold Start

Jason, The TTS switch would activate the cold start valve when start to
crank over. Take it out and see if it sprays fuel when you try to start the
car. If it does the we go to step 2.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Rowe [mailto:rowejj_at_dml_tds.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 6:19 PM
To: DmcNews
Subject: [DML] Hard/No Cold Start


    Hello all,
               I would really like to get my car out for the season but I
have a small
problem. I can't get my car to start. It will crank and crank over but
doesn't want
to start. I tried spraying a little starting fluid in and it started and ran
fine up until
I turned it off. I tried to start it again today and it just cranks and
cranks again.
I tried checking the thermo-time switch by unplugging it and putting a
jumper
wire in and grounding it - still no start. Also checked the fuel pump by
putting
a jumper wire in the relay harness and it ran fine. What else do I need to
check
or do? Any advice would be appreciated.

                  Thanks in advance..............Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 21:58:20 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: high idle at start up

Andy, you would have to look at the valve in the bottom of the idle speed
motor to see if it's opening. It may not be and that's why it chocking down.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 7:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] high idle at start up


In a message dated 5/2/04 10:02:49 AM Central Daylight Time,
advantics_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> My baby starts now, but idles a little high at about 1200 rpm. It
> will run fine for a few minutes  then it gets a little ruff and then
> wants to die if you don't give it gas. I tested the idle speed switch
> and it is working. How do I tell if the idle speed motor is working
> or not? Thanks in advance.
>
> John 5326 & 1383

the idle speed motor should be purring like a kitten while the car is
running.
how did you test the idle speed switch?
sounds to me like either the control pressure regulator or the idle speed
motor are stuck, or you have a vacuum leak that gets worse as the car warms
up
until the car won't stay running anymore.

here is what you should do:
1.  first check the idle speed switch by removing it from the car and
putting
it on a multimeter (it's hard to test with a meter on the car).  make sure
the meter shows open and closed.  with the pins on the switch, try tapping
the
switch with a wrench in both the open and closed position. if the needle on
the
switch wavers at all, replace the switch.  it is probably intermittent.  the
switch isn't your (whole) problem anyway though.

2.  with a good idle speed switch installed, turn the key to the on position
in your ignition and move the throttle so it makes the idle switch trip on
and
off.  do you hear a dull clicking coming from the back of the fuel
distributer (the ignition advance solenoid )?  if not, you need to get that
fixed or
else your car will experience ignition advance when the car is fully warmed
up.
check all of your vacuum hoses and make sure they are routed correctly.  any
questionable hoses should be replaced.

3. when the car is running, try spraying some starting fuel all around the
engine, listening for engine changes between squirts.  this can help you
pinpoint a bad vacuum leak.  concentrate on the driver's side of the engine
where all
the vacuum hoses and the idle speed motor piping are.  the passenger side
won't have any leaks unless the manifold isn't sitting properly (and then
the car
probably wouldn't run!).

4.  while you are at it, if you are sure the car isn't getting ignition
advance at full temperature, check your timing.  that won't solve the
problem but
it could help smooth things out.

5.  if you have a fuel pressure gauge (specially for Bosch K-Jet), you may
want to install it while the engine is cold and then observe your control
pressure as the engine warms up.  perhaps your CPR is dead?

sounds to me more like you have a dead idle speed motor, bad wiring for it,
or a dead idle ECU (rare). it is maybe stuck in an open (higher) position,
which lets more air than is necessary upon start up.  then as the engine
warms up,
the air doesn't change in relation to the fuel (from the CPR) and it kills
the motor.   remember - your 'gas pedal' isn't a gas pedal - it's an AIR
pedal -
when you hit the gas, the car runs better because you just cracked the
throttle - the only other way for air to get into the motor. i might be
wrong but
that makes sense to me.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 03:38:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Latch Rattles on Passenger side

Check the condition of your door seals first. If they are cracked,
torn, missing, or flattened out DO NOT TRY TO ADJUST THE ANCHOR PINS!!!
If you try to compensate for "dead" door seals you will not achieve
anything. If you don't know when they were last replaced (maybe
never?) replace them first and save yourself the trouble of trying to
adjust for worn seals. You will see that not only will the doors stop
rattling the car will be much quieter and less windy inside.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hi all,
>      I am getting frustrated at how my passenger door rattles on
virtually 
> any rough spot on the road or highway that I hit.   I am almost 100%
positive 
> that it is the door latches that are wiggling and rattling making
the noise.   
> The door shuts and opens fine.   When I have a passenger push
outward on the 
> door when I am driving the rattling noise goes away.   The minute
they let go it 
> comes back.   I guess my question is would adjusting the latch
linkage fix 
> this problem (not sure I need to do it since the door opens and
closes fine), or 
> do I need to order a new set of door latches for the passenger side?
  I am 
> willing to do anything to eliminate the noise.
> 
> Thanks, 
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 03:45:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New owner seeking parts & advice

I could give you step-by-step answers to all your questions but I
think you should get in touch with other local owners. Go to
dmcnews.com and register on the DoD. You will get a list of ALL owners
including many that will be local to you. Go back in the archives and
you will find answers to all your questions, you are not the first
owner to have these problems. If you are not handy there are 2 venders
in California that service Deloreans. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hello folks,
> 
> My DeLorean is back home! '81 #5447. Made the 15+ hour drive from
> Sacramento with no problems. Well, except for the existing problems,
> which I now need to fix. If anyone can give me advice on one or more
> of these issues, I would greatly appreciate it. On some of these I've
> already found a lot of articles and am pouring through them, but





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 03:51:02 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pics of #2894

The weather was great today, so a friend and I got some great pics of
my DeLorean today.  They can be found under the #2894 folder.  Enjoy!




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 03:59:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Filling the cooling system - help!

Generally when you have a problem in the cooling system it is best to
do the whole system at one time. You should probably replace EVERY
hose and seal, check the radiator and replace if green, replace the
water pump, and belts, idler pulley bearings, drain, flush, refill,
bleed and pressure test. This can become a large job and if you do not
have much automotive experience this is not the one to learn on. It is
not a job for someone who is not knowledgeable on Volvo engines
either. Your local garage may not be up to the task on this one
either. Talk to other local "D" owners and see where they take their
cars for repairs. The Delorean venders can always talk someone through
this and they have a "Master Cooling System Kit" they put together
with all the parts you will need.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean_pilot" <delorean_pilot_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> My D developed a leak in one of the fittings or hose connections this 
> Winter and all the water/antifreeze has leaked out. Now that Spring 
> is here it's time to refill and test the system. Can I do this or is 
> it best to have the car towed to the local monkey man? Is there 
> something to this task that would stymie a mechanic who has never 
> worked on a D?




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 03:51:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hard/No Cold Start

I would check if the cold start valve getting power when cold and the
engine is cranking. You might also have a large vacuum leak. Is the
plug in the housing over the mixture screw?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>     Hello all,
>                I would really like to get my car out for the season
but I have a small 
> problem. I can't get my car to start. It will crank and crank over
but doesn't want
> to start. I tried spraying a little starting fluid in and it started
and ran fine up until
> I turned it off. I tried to start it again today and it just cranks
and cranks again.





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 05:28:35 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: led number

Which color scheme did you choose for the EL dash kit?  We'd love to
see pictures!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone!!!
> Just wanted to know if there is much difference between the 1156 led
bulb, 
> and a 1157?
> It looks like to me that the 1157 will fit in the tail light just
the same 
> as the 1156.
> Anyways, I wanted to check this before I buy anything. Thanks!!!
> 
> Dustin 006746
> PS. Shannon Y, Joe O, and I installed my elglo dash kit tonight. It
came out 
> looking killer.
> Thank you Shannon and Joe!!! Ryan has a great product. Thank you
also Ryan 
> G.
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra
Storage! 
>
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 00:56:30 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: fenders/quarter panels for sale...

Hey Gang,

I've got a few excellent condition quarter panels and fenders for sale, 
including two very nice left front fenders.  I wanted to post them here 
before I go to ebay.  If you are interested, please contact me off list, 
and I will respond as quickly as possible. (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) 

Thanks for your time,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 11289 (parts)
VIN 10236 (parts)
VIN 3951





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 06:34:22 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Closing your doors from the outside

What's your favorite method of closing the doors from outside the car?
So far, I've tried:

1. Grab the interior handle, pull down hard, and let go. The door
closes, but I have to put my whole body into it.

2. Put my hand on the door and close it. Leaves hand prints on the
stainless.

3. Use the plastic trim. Works great, but I'm afraid I'm going to
unnecessarily wear or damage the trim this way.

Any thoughts? 

-Ryan :)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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