From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1995
Date: Monday, May 03, 2004 5:53 PM

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Horsepower vs Torque
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

2. RE: Giugiaro's Toyota
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

3. RE: Giugiaro's Toyota
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

4. Re: Delorean Mid Atlantic Spring Socail - update
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Re: Black and Grey Paint
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Filling the cooling system - help!
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

7. Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

8. RE: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

9. Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

10. Re: Giugiaro's Toyota
From: Jon Heese <heese_at_dml_digi-net.com>

11. Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

13. Re: Horsepower vs Torque
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

14. Re: Horsepower vs Torque
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

15. Continued: Horsepower vs Torque
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Hard/No Cold Start
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

17. Re: clicking/squeek (speedo diagnosis)
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 00:03:03 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Horsepower vs Torque


On Sun, 02 May 2004 18:55:55 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> writes:
> My
> contention, then and now, is a high rev'ing turbocharged small
> displacement engine does not produce very much torque. 

what's "very much"?
A turbocharged 1.5L BMW F1 engine generates 500ft-lb of torque.
A production 2.0L rotary twin turbo generated more torque than the 4.6L
northstar v8 (297 ft-lb vs 295 ft-lb).

In fact, smaller engines generate more torque for their size than larger
engines.  A turbocharged Lotus 2.2L makes more than TWICE the torque for
it's size than the chevy 350.  

Your assessment of the chevy 350 is also not entirely accurate.  You say
that the "185 Net HP" translates to 330ft-lbs of torque, but the peak
horsepower for the vette's 350 is attained at 4000 to 5000RPM.  There is
much less HP at 3000RPM.  Also, I don't know of any 350s that have HP as
low as 185 and torque as high as 330ft-lb.  


It's normally expensive and a pain to replace the transmission as well as
the engine in a conversion, but I'd consider an engine swap to be
incomplete if you can't count on the transmission to take the beating
that an engine can dish out.  

If you're replacing the engine in the Delorean, you've probably already
passed the point where the 'collector status' of the car has any value. 
Personally, it seems unlikely to me to swap a PRV back into a car that's
gotten an engine swap to another engine.  I think the car would have to
have significant colllector appeal for such a "unswap" to be reasonable
or desirable.


Jim 
1537

...
> 
> That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
> "only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 
> Ft
> Lbs of Torque).
> 
> I do have a spare high compression Ford 460 you might be able to
> shoehorn back there...
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 


________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 02:55:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: RE: Giugiaro's Toyota

Louie,
I looked it up on Google and came across this article:
www.auto123.com/en/info/news/news,view.spy?artid=21889,
which has some nice pics of it.To be honest I can't
see much resemblance to the D.It has a bit of the
wedge thing happening but isn't as angular as the
DeLorean.But its a pretty hot looking car though.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney
--- Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
> Where can pictures of this car be seen? You guys
> keep talking about it but not where you saw it. I've
> looked all around the net for pics of it and have
> come up empty handed. I wouldn't mind going to a
> newstand to see it either if necessary... I'm just
> curious now after this dialogue. -Louie
> 
>


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 07:22:14 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Giugiaro's Toyota

http://www.toyota.com/vehicles/future/volta.html

-----Original Message-----
From: Louie G [mailto:louie_at_dml_delorean.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 7:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Giugiaro's Toyota

Where can pictures of this car be seen? You guys keep talking about it
but not where you saw it. I've looked all around the net for pics of it
and have come up empty handed. I wouldn't mind going to a newstand to
see it either if necessary... I'm just curious now after this dialogue.
-Louie


 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 12:29:40 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Mid Atlantic Spring Socail - update

I will vouch for Dave on the tire pressure issue.

My tires were way over pressure and the handling much improved once 
he let the air out. It seems it's better to go by the spec. card in 
the glove box instead of what's printed on the side of the tire.

I found the ride to be not as harsh, and the car doesn't want to fly 
out of the lane every time I hit a dip in the road.

Rich A.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> I was handling the door adjustments for the day. It seems that there
> is less and less of a need for it. In the past many times 
adjustments
> were made to correct for weak struts. This would cause further
> adjustments when the struts were replaced. Now before I do any
> adjustments I try a new strut. Many times that eliminates the need 
for
> any adjustment. (It was handy being at Rob's, I had a supply of
> struts!) Now I also check and adjust the locking pins for the doors
> with the extra time I would have spent on the torsion bars. 
>  The big lesson I want to share is that I also check the air 
pressure
> in the tires and the brake lights. (A mini safety check) I found 
that
> for the most part everyone's lights worked but the tire pressures 
were
> all over the place. I challange EVERYONE to go out to their car, 
look
> at the decal on the inside of the glove box in the dash, and check
> their tire pressures. This is the single most important thing an 
owner
> can do for tire life, ride handling, and safety. You don't have to 
be
> mechanicaly inclined to do it, all you need is a decent tire gauge. 
In
> fact you should be checking EVERY car you drive at least once a 
month.
> Don't forget to check the spare. Do it on a weekend, before you 
drive
> the car. It is also a good time to check all the fluid levels. 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Yesterday was the Mid Atlantic club's spring social, and it 
turned out
> > to be a great event!   I will be posting pictures and updates to 
the
> > club website in a few days for everyong to see.
> > 
> > Thanks to everyone who attended, and special thanks to Rob & Debby
> > Grady, Dan D., and everyone else who helped put the event 
together.  
> > 
> > Kevin Abato
> > Vin# 16680
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 08:55:58 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Black and Grey Paint

I use the krylon semi flat black paint and it does real well.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 14:52:33 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Filling the cooling system - help!

Get yourself a pressure tester and you will be able to spot any 
leaks.  It should hold 15 pounds of pressure for twenty minutes.

Johnny
5518


> My D developed a leak in one of the fittings or hose connections 
this 
> Winter and all the water/antifreeze has leaked out. Now that Spring 
> is here it's time to refill and test the system. Can I do this or 
is 
> it best to have the car towed to the local monkey man? Is there 
> something to this task that would stymie a mechanic who has never 
> worked on a D?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 11:07:26 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar

I recall in the past people have used different items to replace this piece.
Mine finally bound itself into a cocoon and became a beautiful butterfly.
Problem is, now the window scrapes when it opens and closes. 

Anybody have any advice/techniques for this?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 17:30:51 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: RE: Closing your doors from the outside

Is this a problem ?
I've always closed the door as shown in the Driver's Handbook (I have the spiral bound one - with illustrated photos!)

You stand next to/behind the door with the door open.
You reach up and place your palm/little finger down on the bottom window seal (behind the power window, just above the door lock)
You close the door with confidence - thud! 
Door closes the way it should (provided your latches and anchor pins interact the way the should)

DO NOT try and close the door by pressing down the front or middle of the door.
You have to press down the rear of the door.

Best of all - no fingermarks!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 06:34:22 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Closing your doors from the outside

What's your favorite method of closing the doors from outside the car?
So far, I've tried:

1. Grab the interior handle, pull down hard, and let go. The door
closes, but I have to put my whole body into it.

2. Put my hand on the door and close it. Leaves hand prints on the
stainless.

3. Use the plastic trim. Works great, but I'm afraid I'm going to
unnecessarily wear or damage the trim this way.

Any thoughts? 

-Ryan :)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 11:10:38 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Closing your doors from the outside


I think this is covered in the owner's manual.  You put your hand on the door and trim just below the toll-both window (or a little further back), and gently push down.  I used to think it required a good push, but once I saw Dave T. close his doors with no more than a couple of fingers and close and latch properly, I realized it doesn't need much force at all.  If it does, your torsion bar might be wound up too much or there is something binding the way.  I'm sure Dave can provide more details.

-Hank #1619


----- Original Message ----- 
What's your favorite method of closing the doors from outside the car?
So far, I've tried:

1. Grab the interior handle, pull down hard, and let go. The door
closes, but I have to put my whole body into it.

2. Put my hand on the door and close it. Leaves hand prints on the
stainless.

3. Use the plastic trim. Works great, but I'm afraid I'm going to
unnecessarily wear or damage the trim this way.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 11:25:07 -0400
From: Jon Heese <heese_at_dml_digi-net.com>
Subject: Re: Giugiaro's Toyota

You can Google for "Toyota Alessandro Volta" (the full name of the
model), or for a quick look, check out Toyota's concept page for it:

http://tinyurl.com/2w379

 - Jon Heese

On Sun, 2 May 2004 16:51:20 -0700 (PDT), Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
wrote:
> Where can pictures of this car be seen? You guys keep talking about it
> but not where you saw it. I've looked all around the net for pics of
> it and have come up empty handed. I wouldn't mind going to a newstand
> to see it either if necessary... I'm just curious now after this
> dialogue. -Louie





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 17:22:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Closing your doors from the outside

Since you invoked my name I guess I willl have to respond. On a car
with the doors set up right it will close easily. I can just push the
door down and let go and it will latch. I either push at the glass
line or the rub strip at the rear of the door by the handle. The
adjustment of the torsion bar isn't as important as the correct
adjustment of the latch (anchor) pins, door seals, and locking
adjustments. The door should not hit or rub on the anchor pins. They
should "glide" right into the latches without rubbing on the guides or
hitting on the end and bumping the door. You also MUST have both
latches in the second locking position AT THE SAME TIME! Of course if
you are not an a flat and level surface it may not close quite so
easily so any tests or adjustments have to be done flat and level. If
the doors have been forced or the locks don't work right you will need
to go inside and perform the entire adjustment sequence. By forcing
the locks you stretch and bend the linkage which will require
readjustment to get it right again. You should not be able to "lock"
the doors if both latches are not in the second position. Forcing the
lock in this case knocks everything out of adjustment. In a really bad
case it could prevent you from being able to open the door. Close the
door slowly. As it closes you will hear the latches click. You can
tell when the front (or rear) clicks first and then the other. They
should click very close to each other and than you should hear them
both click again into the second locking position. If this doesn't
happen on your car than the FIRST thing is to adjust the anchor pins.
Once you have the anchor pins done than you may have to go inside the
door and complete all the other adjsutments. This is hard to explain
in print but easy to show.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Hank" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> I think this is covered in the owner's manual.  You put your hand on
the door and trim just below the toll-both window (or a little further
back), and gently push down.  I used to think it required a good push,
but once I saw Dave T. close his doors with no more than a couple of
fingers and close and latch properly, I realized it doesn't need much
force at all.  If it does, your torsion bar might be wound up too much 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 18:01:09 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Closing your doors from the outside

Ryan,

I close the doors on the D Rex the same way that Stian described,
however I stand on the rear tires to make sure I can reach the doors.

Your mileage may vary.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> Is this a problem ?
> I've always closed the door as shown in the Driver's Handbook (I 
have the spiral bound one - with illustrated photos!)
> 
> You stand next to/behind the door with the door open.
> You reach up and place your palm/little finger down on the bottom 
window seal (behind the power window, just above the door lock)
> You close the door with confidence - thud! 
> Door closes the way it should (provided your latches and anchor 
pins interact the way the should)
> You have to press down the rear of the door.
> 
> Best of all - no fingermarks!
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> VIN # 06759
> 
> Message: 25
>    Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 06:34:22 -0000
>    From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...>
> Subject: Closing your doors from the outside
> 
> What's your favorite method of closing the doors from outside the 
car?
> 
> snip <
>
> Any thoughts? 
> 
> -Ryan :)
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 18:11:10 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Horsepower vs Torque

If I remember correctly, Darryl T. has a supercharged 4.3L Chevy
using an adapter plate to the trans. (not a custom bellhousing)

I do not know what the '350' reference has to do with Darryl T.'s
conversion, since he is not running a '350'.

As for the input shaft debate, I believe that alignment issues are
the root cause of most input shaft failures, since I have seen two
first hand, including a stock PRV that had gone through two shafts
and my Grand National powered Delorean that did not have proper
alignment with a missing pilot bearing in the crank.  Once proper
alignment has been ensured, neither car has "ate" another shaft.

Knock on Stainless.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Yes -- laugh, laugh, roll eyes, roll eyes.
> 
> Remember: this thread started Re: damaging a Renault transmission. 
My
> contention, then and now, is a high rev'ing turbocharged small
> displacement engine does not produce very much torque. It's a
> mathematical certainty. I'm less impressed with 20 some odd little
> splines that can survive 200 Ft Lbs than I am with 10 big ones that
> can survive more than 400.
> 
> That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
> "only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 
Ft
> Lbs of Torque).
> 
> snip <
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 15:24:51 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Horsepower vs Torque

Don't forget that torque in a smaller engine has max 
torque at a much higher rpm. While bigger engines such as a 350 has 
peak torque as low at 2000rpm. Which is much more useful. It means
less shifting, and more useable power for everyday use.

MT



> what's "very much"?
> A turbocharged 1.5L BMW F1 engine generates 500ft-lb of torque.
> A production 2.0L rotary twin turbo generated more torque than the 
> 4.6L
> northstar v8 (297 ft-lb vs 295 ft-lb).
> 
> In fact, smaller engines generate more torque for their size than 
> larger
> engines.  A turbocharged Lotus 2.2L makes more than TWICE the torque 
> for
> it's size than the chevy 350.  
> 
> Your assessment of the chevy 350 is also not entirely accurate.  You 
> say
> that the "185 Net HP" translates to 330ft-lbs of torque, but the 
> peak
> horsepower for the vette's 350 is attained at 4000 to 5000RPM.  
> There is
> much less HP at 3000RPM.  Also, I don't know of any 350s that have 
> HP as
> low as 185 and torque as high as 330ft-lb.  
> 
> 
> It's normally expensive and a pain to replace the transmission as 
> well as
> the engine in a conversion, but I'd consider an engine swap to be
> incomplete if you can't count on the transmission to take the 
> beating
> that an engine can dish out.  
> 
> If you're replacing the engine in the Delorean, you've probably 
> already
> passed the point where the 'collector status' of the car has any 
> value. 
> Personally, it seems unlikely to me to swap a PRV back into a car 
> that's
> gotten an engine swap to another engine.  I think the car would have 
> to
> have significant colllector appeal for such a "unswap" to be 
> reasonable
> or desirable.
> 
> 
> Jim 
> 1537
> 
> ...
> > 
> > That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
> > "only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 
> 
> > Ft
> > Lbs of Torque).
> > 
> > I do have a spare high compression Ford 460 you might be able to
> > shoehorn back there...
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 17:28:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: Horsepower vs Torque

185 was General Motors' published net HP rating for a 4 barrel 350
circa 1981. Look it up. Make sure you're not confusing gross HP with
net HP -- American manufacturers changed to a net calculation around 1972.

The only way you're going to get a normally aspirated large bore
gasoline engine to continue to produce usable power up to 5,000 RPM is
with serious modification to the valve train (short duration, high
lift, overlapping time, etc). In the process you'll render it totally
useless for street driving. Won't even idle less than 2-3,000 RPM.
Higher compression is also necessary -- another point you and I
disagree on.

I didn't invent algebra BTW. If you don't like the way numbers come
out of a HP calculation, don't point fingers at me. You are using the
same formula as James Watt, aren't you?

Consider this: if turbocharged high rev'ing small displacement engines
were as powerful as you insist, wouldn't they be installed in every
pickup and delivery truck in the country? I have never seen a tow
truck with with any of the engines you eMailed me under the hood. I
have seen them with diesels (let's talk about low rev'ing torque!)

The concept is very simple: an engine that produces all its power in
the upper RPM ranges is basically useless until you rev it up there.
Subjected to a significant load from a standstill you'll either stall
it or burn up the clutch disc(s) trying to move. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 02 May 2004 18:55:55 -0000 "content22207"
> <brobertson_at_dml_c...> writes:
> > My
> > contention, then and now, is a high rev'ing turbocharged small
> > displacement engine does not produce very much torque. 
> 
> what's "very much"?
> A turbocharged 1.5L BMW F1 engine generates 500ft-lb of torque.
> A production 2.0L rotary twin turbo generated more torque than the 4.6L
> northstar v8 (297 ft-lb vs 295 ft-lb).
> 
> In fact, smaller engines generate more torque for their size than larger
> engines.  A turbocharged Lotus 2.2L makes more than TWICE the torque for
> it's size than the chevy 350.  
> 
> Your assessment of the chevy 350 is also not entirely accurate.  You say
> that the "185 Net HP" translates to 330ft-lbs of torque, but the peak
> horsepower for the vette's 350 is attained at 4000 to 5000RPM.  There is
> much less HP at 3000RPM.  Also, I don't know of any 350s that have HP as
> low as 185 and torque as high as 330ft-lb.  
> 
> 
> It's normally expensive and a pain to replace the transmission as
well as
> the engine in a conversion, but I'd consider an engine swap to be
> incomplete if you can't count on the transmission to take the beating
> that an engine can dish out.  
> 
> If you're replacing the engine in the Delorean, you've probably already
> passed the point where the 'collector status' of the car has any value. 
> Personally, it seems unlikely to me to swap a PRV back into a car that's
> gotten an engine swap to another engine.  I think the car would have to
> have significant colllector appeal for such a "unswap" to be reasonable
> or desirable.
> 
> 
> Jim 
> 1537
> 
> ...
> > 
> > That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
> > "only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 
> > Ft
> > Lbs of Torque).
> > 
> > I do have a spare high compression Ford 460 you might be able to
> > shoehorn back there...
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 14:45:02 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Re: Hard/No Cold Start

        ok, here's what I've done so far and still no luck. 

1. Grounded the blue/black wire on the thermo-time switch
    and made sure that the red/white wire had power - Check

2. Pulled cold start valve off and made sure it was spraying - Check

3. The plug is in the housing over the mixture screw.

4. Checked the inertia switch just for kicks.

    Where do I go from here?    

      Thanks to all that have responded so far.   Jason #5903



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 16:08:03 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: clicking/squeek (speedo diagnosis)

Andy,
Well I guess luck was with me.  I jacked up the car, turned the wheel, and
looked under the dash.  Guess what I found.  The lower cable had come loose
and fallen off.

So I oiled the cable and re-attached it.  Now it appears to be working but
will test it tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

Ed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] clicking/squeek (speedo diagnosis)


> In a message dated 4/2/04 10:40:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > Is this typical of a broken cable, connector falling off the back of the
> > speedo, lubrication problem, comming hurricane, or something else?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------