From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1996
Date: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 4:22 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Hard/No Cold Start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Horsepower vs Torque
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Re: Continued: Horsepower vs Torque
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Stainless Throttle Plate
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: clicking/squeek (speedo diagnosis)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Stainless Frame Project
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Clutch Problems
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Darryl T's Engine (350 vs Vortec)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Hard/No Cold Start
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Clutch Problems
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

13. Re: Clutch Problems
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Stainless Throttle Plate
From: Mads de Bruin <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

15. Re: Clutch Problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. RE: Clutch Problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Stainless Throttle Plate
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com

18. Starter replacement
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>

19. RE: Stainless Throttle Plate
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

20. Re: Clutch Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Bridesburg Memorial Day Parade
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>

22. Re: Starter replacement
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Re: Clutch Problems
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Interesting idling stuff
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. AC Service
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 17:30:42 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Hard/No Cold Start

Jason,
Does ( Check ) mean it was spraying fuel. If so then there is most likely a
firing problem.
1st off do you have spark at the plug's.
2nd what is the voltage reading on the blue yellow wire on the left side of
the resistor when you trying to crank. To get a good fire you should have 9
to 10 volts at this point.
3rd. If so then your reading on the coil wire ( 15  should be just a little
below that unless a wire is broken and not making good contact.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Rowe [mailto:rowejj_at_dml_tds.net]
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 3:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Hard/No Cold Start


        ok, here's what I've done so far and still no luck.

1. Grounded the blue/black wire on the thermo-time switch
    and made sure that the red/white wire had power - Check

2. Pulled cold start valve off and made sure it was spraying - Check

3. The plug is in the housing over the mixture screw.

4. Checked the inertia switch just for kicks.

    Where do I go from here?

      Thanks to all that have responded so far.   Jason #5903



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 18:27:20 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Horsepower vs Torque

I'm not sure you are correct.  I think it is technology-dependent. 
VTEC/VVTLi engines are more likely to have higher torque RPMs because of
the increase in HP at the cam crossover.  

I took the average torque RPM for 100 cars from 2.0 liter to 2.3 liter,
and got 3915RPM.
I did the same for 100 cars from 5.0 liter (300ci) to 5.7L (350ci) and
got 3892RPM.    Not much of a difference there.

Consider that low displacement engines are more likely to have
turbochargers, and turbocharged engines often have low peak torques.  

Smaller engines should have a much higher peak HP RPM, but since HP is
measured on a scale of RPM, it does not necessarily mean that the torque
RPM will be high.  

Jim
1537

ps. a 1993 civic has peak torque at 2000rpm too.


On Mon, 3 May 2004 15:24:51 -0400 Michael T Twigger
<marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com> writes:
> Don't forget that torque in a smaller engine has max 
> torque at a much higher rpm. While bigger engines such as a 350 has 
> peak torque as low at 2000rpm. Which is much more useful. It means
> less shifting, and more useable power for everyday use.
> 
> MT


________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 18:50:35 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Continued: Horsepower vs Torque



On Mon, 03 May 2004 17:28:08 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> writes:
...
> I didn't invent algebra BTW. If you don't like the way numbers come
> out of a HP calculation, don't point fingers at me. You are using 
> the
> same formula as James Watt, aren't you?
> 

We are using the same formula, but you are using it incorrectly.  In the
Delorean's case, peak HP is 130 at 5500rpm.  The torque is 124ft-lbs at
5500rpm.  Likewise, at the peak torque, 153ft-lb_at_dml_ 2750RPM, the horsepower
is 80HP.    It is rare to have peak torque and peak HP at the same RPM.  


> Consider this: if turbocharged high rev'ing small displacement 
> engines
> were as powerful as you insist, wouldn't they be installed in every
> pickup and delivery truck in the country? I have never seen a tow
> truck with with any of the engines you eMailed me under the hood. I
> have seen them with diesels (let's talk about low rev'ing torque!)


A properly turbocharged engine will make more torque than the same
non-turbocharged engine.  
Therefore a smaller engine that is turbocharged will make the same torque
as a larger, non turbocharged engine of the same type/technology.
A larger turbocharged engine will make more torque than a smaller
turbocharged engine.  

would you choose a diesel over a turbodiesel?

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 20:04:19 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Closing your doors from the outside

In a message dated 5/3/04 9:58:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com writes:


> 3. Use the plastic trim. Works great, but I'm afraid I'm going to
> unnecessarily wear or damage the trim this way.
> 
> Any thoughts? 
> 
> -Ryan :)

Ryan,

I always pull the door down first with the leather strap, then push it down 
the rest of the way with my hand/fingers on the outer molding.  

Andy




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004 23:55:17 -0000
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stainless Throttle Plate

Who sells the stainless throttle plate with the Embossed DMC? I know 
I saw it somewhere online but I can't find it anymore. Thanks




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 20:13:17 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar

In a message dated 5/3/04 10:57:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com writes:


> I recall in the past people have used different items to replace this piece.
> Mine finally bound itself into a cocoon and became a beautiful butterfly.
> Problem is, now the window scrapes when it opens and closes. 
> 
> Anybody have any advice/techniques for this?

I replaced both of mine last fall.  the part was $20-$30, somewhere in there. 
 for some reason it is not listed on DMC Houston or Grady's websites - maybe 
they are all gone now?  i remember they were too long but were just like OEM - 
i just cut to fit.  had to remove the upper door trim but that's about it.  
it's a 1 hr job if you have been in there before.  why monkey around with some 
homebrew solution when the right part is pretty cheap?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 20:22:41 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: clicking/squeek (speedo diagnosis)

In a message dated 5/3/04 4:35:09 PM Central Daylight Time, 
edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Andy,
> Well I guess luck was with me.  I jacked up the car, turned the wheel, and
> looked under the dash.  Guess what I found.  The lower cable had come loose
> and fallen off.
> 
> So I oiled the cable and re-attached it.  Now it appears to be working but
> will test it tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Ed

Ed,

where did the cable come off? i assume the angle drive side.  you may want to 
check to make sure the threads aren't stripped on the fitting and you should 
also install the lower cable bracket that holds the cable away from the wheel 
and keeps it from getting kinked during wheel-locked turns.

Good luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 00:36:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Stainless Frame Project

aka: How Gerry Spent the Winter.

More to come, but this is a nice start. The web page tells it all. 

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html

If the link breaks, go to www.dmcnews.com, link to the tech section, 
and scroll to the "Frame" section. 

Dave




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 02:06:55 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Clutch Problems

Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,

Dave
VIN 5968




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 02:41:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Darryl T's Engine (350 vs Vortec)

I thought he had a 350, not a Vortec. Apologies.

At least I had the correct manufacturer...

Bill Robertson
#5939 

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> If I remember correctly, Darryl T. has a supercharged 4.3L Chevy
> using an adapter plate to the trans. (not a custom bellhousing)
> 
> I do not know what the '350' reference has to do with Darryl T.'s
> conversion, since he is not running a '350'.
> 
> As for the input shaft debate, I believe that alignment issues are
> the root cause of most input shaft failures, since I have seen two
> first hand, including a stock PRV that had gone through two shafts
> and my Grand National powered Delorean that did not have proper
> alignment with a missing pilot bearing in the crank.  Once proper
> alignment has been ensured, neither car has "ate" another shaft.
> 
> Knock on Stainless.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > Yes -- laugh, laugh, roll eyes, roll eyes.
> > 
> > Remember: this thread started Re: damaging a Renault transmission. 
> My
> > contention, then and now, is a high rev'ing turbocharged small
> > displacement engine does not produce very much torque. It's a
> > mathematical certainty. I'm less impressed with 20 some odd little
> > splines that can survive 200 Ft Lbs than I am with 10 big ones that
> > can survive more than 400.
> > 
> > That's what killed Darryl Tinnerstet's input shaft (a stock 350 is
> > "only" rated 185 Net HP, but at 3,000 RPM that translates into 330 
> Ft
> > Lbs of Torque).
> > 
> > snip <
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 02:48:15 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Hard/No Cold Start

Ignition. Ensure you're getting a proper spark.

Remember: 9 out of 10 engine running problems are electrical, not fuel
delivery.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>         ok, here's what I've done so far and still no luck. 
> 
> 1. Grounded the blue/black wire on the thermo-time switch
>     and made sure that the red/white wire had power - Check
> 
> 2. Pulled cold start valve off and made sure it was spraying - Check
> 
> 3. The plug is in the housing over the mixture screw.
> 
> 4. Checked the inertia switch just for kicks.
> 
>     Where do I go from here?    
> 
>       Thanks to all that have responded so far.   Jason #5903




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2036 01:32:40 -0500 EST
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

Sounds JUST like what happened to me...

Couldn't shift at all - like there was no clutch pedal... turned out to 
be a leaky clutch slave cyl - over on the top of the bell housing

regards,

Michael
vin6067


> Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
> this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
> driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
> relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
> was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
> added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
> level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
> times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
> was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
> and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,
> 
> Dave
> VIN 5968
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 23:53:35 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

In a message dated 5/3/04 10:38:25 PM Central Daylight Time, usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com 
writes:


> 
> Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
> this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
> driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
> relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
> was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
> added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
> level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
> times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
> was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
> and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,
> 
> Dave
> 

Dave,

First:
1. check clutch master cylinder for signs of leakage both by removing the 
master cylinder/fuel spout access cover in the trunk and by checking for seepage 
signs in the passenger compartment in the driver's footwell where the clutch 
pedal goes thru the firewall.  

2. replace OEM plastic clutch hydraulic line with a stainless steel upgrade 
from your favorite vendor

3. check clutch slave cylinder for signs of leakage

4. properly bleed the entire system with Castrol GTLMA Dot-4 brake/clutch 
fluid (available from Pegasus Auto Racing's website if not locally).

the fluid had to go somewhere if the reservoir was empty, so you need to fix 
that before anything else.  after the leaks are fixed, let us know if the 
clutch still doesn't work.  if everything is original, you are probably going to 
need a new hydraulic system soon (clutch line, both cylinders), especially 
after bleeding with fresh fluid.  this is why it is mandatory that you flush the 
system every 2 years, even if the fluid still looks good.

Good Luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 08:37:59 +0200
From: Mads de Bruin <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: Re: Stainless Throttle Plate

Check out this site:

http://www.delorean-steel-products.com/frmsetel.html

Mads

Jeff wrote:

>Who sells the stainless throttle plate with the Embossed DMC? I know 
>I saw it somewhere online but I can't find it anymore. Thanks
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>  
>



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 04:38:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

Call up your favorite Delorean vender and tell him you need the folowing:
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Braided metal clutch line
3 pints of Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid
While you are talking to him get a Workshop Manual if you don't
already have one, a drain plug adapter, and 2 oil filters, one for now
and another for the next time. Remove the loose, bubbling paint on the
frame where the brake fluid leaked and respray with Krylon Smoke Grey.
You can pick up a can at Home Depot. Pick up the carpet on the
driver's side and wipe up any brake fluid underneath.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
> this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
> driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
> relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
> was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
> added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
> level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
> times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
> was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
> and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,
> 
> Dave
> VIN 5968




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 00:11:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Clutch Problems

Dave, You could have a master cylinder leaking onto the carpet inside the
car or just bad seals in the master and the slave.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: usndmc [mailto:usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 8:07 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Clutch Problems


Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months,
this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while
driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be
relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I
was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I
added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the
level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple
times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I
was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try
and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,

Dave
VIN 5968




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 03:36:03 EDT
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stainless Throttle Plate

Try this link - $30 standard, $70 with embossed DMC;
_http://www.delorean-steel-products.de/frmsetel.html_ 
(http://www.delorean-steel-products.de/frmsetel.html) 
<Who sells the stainless throttle plate with the Embossed DMC? I know  
I saw it somewhere online but I can't find it anymore.  Thanks>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 04:25:17 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Starter replacement

Hi Group,

Looks like I need to do a starter replacement, never done one on the 
car before. Any special tips or tricks? Just a quick check before I 
run into an unforseen problem.

Nick




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 06:35:14 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Stainless Throttle Plate

I had one on my car from DeLorean Steel Products in Germany - they do
very nice work:

http://www.delorean-steel-products.com/frmsetel.html

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff [mailto:dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 7:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Stainless Throttle Plate

Who sells the stainless throttle plate with the Embossed DMC? I know 
I saw it somewhere online but I can't find it anymore. Thanks

 




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 16:13:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

( moderator's note: The suggestion here to start the car in gear without the clutch is a technique that is potentialy dangreous and isn't condoned or recommended as an alternative to a flatbed or tow truck. Bruce Benson, current moderator )

Welcome! Sometimes posts generate a little controversy, but in the end
we're all on the same team (owners of limited production automobiles
from a car company that no longer exists can't afford to be too
particular). 

If you drive a stick shift, you need to learn and practice "RPM
shifting" before something like this happens (down South we call it
"slam shifting", which sounds terrible but is actually quite gentle).
Once familiar with the progressive shift points in your car -- the
points at which various transmission gears are synchronized with
engine RPM's -- you can slip right into them without disengaging the
clutch at all! I drove my AMC home like this once when the clutch
pedal linkage came unwelded from the pedal bracket, through Xmas eve
traffic no less. After the holiday I slam shifted to the shop to have
the bracket re-welded. 

Regarding your current predicament -- your clutch hydraulics have most
likely leaked fluid. In its place air has been sucked in. Start at the
master cylinder and diagnose your way towards the rear of the car
(also check the pedal connecting rod to ensure it is still attached): 
- Ensure fluid is not leaking past the master cylinder piston. You'll
see it inside the passenger compartment if it is
- Ensure the internal stopper is shutting off the reservoir as the
master cylinder piston moves by watching the air hole in the filler
cap. If the stopper has fallen out that's the path of least resistance
and fluid will shoot out the air hole as the piston moves
- Ensure fitting to the rear of the car is not leaking. Ensure line to
the rear of the car is not leaking (part of it is hidden above the
driver side trailing arm splash guard). Ensure union above the
transmission is not leaking. Ensure line towards the slave cylinder is
not leaking.
- Now comes the fun part: if you're still using an original exhaust
crossove pipe, the slave cylinder is pretty well obscured unless you
climb on top of the engine and look down from above. You need to check
both the fitting into the slave cylinder and the bleeder screw for
leaks. Pop the dust boot off and watch for fluid leaking past the
piston. This is the end of the line -- if you haven't found any leaks
you'll need to bleed the air out and wait for the system to fail again.

Two last throughts Re: slam shifting
- Progressive shift points are often at lower RPM's than people
usually shift at
- To start moving from a stoplight: turn off the engine, put the
transmission in 1st gear (it'll slip right in without the engine
running), then start the car in gear. It will leap forward enough that
you can feed it some throttle and keep the engine lurching until
normal acceleration is possible. Embarrassing, but cheaper than a tow
truck.

Good luck!

Bill Robertson
#5939  
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey all, I'm a new owner and I've been lurking for about 2 months, 
> this is my first post. I have a 5-speed and the other day while 
> driving, my clutch stopped responding to the pedal. It used to be 
> relatively stiff but now is soft. I limped home in 1st (luckily I 
> was close to home) and checked the reservoir and it was empty. I 
> added more fluid hoping to see where it was leaking from, but the 
> level does not decrease at all. I pumped the clutch pedal multiple 
> times but there is no visual effect on the fluid in the reservoir. I 
> was hoping to get some advice before I went tooling around to try 
> and pinpoint the problem. Thanks for any advice,
> 
> Dave
> VIN 5968




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 16:15:34 -0000
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>
Subject: Bridesburg Memorial Day Parade

Hi group,

I am planning to go to the Bridesburg Memorial Day Parade in
Philadelphia.
Would anyone like to join? It would be cool to have more than one D in
the parade.
Did anyone went to this Parade in previous years? How was it?

Gleb 
3406




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 16:39:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Starter replacement

Starter motor is an easy install, certainly within the capabilities of
any owner.

I don't think a parts house Volvo xRef bullnose will fit our
bellhousing, so get the part from a vendor.

Disconnect the battery first. Lines from it to the starter motor are
unfused and live all the time.

I find access easiest if the oil filter is removed.

Three 8mm bolts hold the motor, inserted from the transmission side of
the bellhousing. The big 10mm bolt in that same vicinity holds the
transmission. There's a flywheel protection plate sandwiched between
the starter motor and the bellhousing.

Those 12v lines (2 red and a bundle of brown) are a bit difficult to
install without creating a dead short, so I relocated mine into mid
air (wrapped in electrical tape) and ran a single pig tail to the
starter motor. I also added a second nut on the stud to move my pig
tail farther from the solenoid.

Have fun! Don't forget to reconnect your battery and reinstall the oil
filter...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hi Group,
> 
> Looks like I need to do a starter replacement, never done one on the 
> car before. Any special tips or tricks? Just a quick check before I 
> run into an unforseen problem.
> 
> Nick




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 16:49:54 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

After having seen what a DMC trans looks like with ground-up 
syncronizers, and what they cost to replace, I'd rather spend the 
$100 on the tow truck. You've only got to mis-shift one time to turn 
a $400 clutch job into a $1400 clutch and transmission job. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> ( moderator's note: The suggestion here to start the car in gear 
without the clutch is a technique that is potentialy dangreous and 
isn't condoned or recommended as an alternative to a flatbed or tow 
truck. Bruce Benson, current moderator )
> 
> 
> If you drive a stick shift, you need to learn and practice "RPM
> shifting" before something like this happens (down South we call it
> "slam shifting", which sounds terrible but is actually quite 
gentle).
> Once familiar with the progressive shift points in your car -- the
> points at which various transmission gears are synchronized with
> engine RPM's -- you can slip right into them without disengaging the
> clutch at all!




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 10:17:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Interesting idling stuff


Ok everyone - I have a question.  I have eliminated
the idle control motor due to my problem I'm going to
describe here.  With my idle control motor
disconnected, the car idles at 900 rpm beautifully
(the ecu is hooked up).  If I hook up the idle control
motor (keep in mind the ecu has been hooked up the
whole time), my rpms jump from 900 to almost 2500
rpms.  I acquired a spare idle control motor and tried
that one (one off another owner's car that I KNEW
worked), and my car jumped in rpms again.  So then I
obtained a spare idle speed ecu that I knew worked -
hooked it up - my car's idle jumped again.  So I've
tested both new ecu's and motor's with no success.  We
have rebuilt the whole engine from the block up, so I
know all vacuum hoses are intact, all O-rings are new
and replaced, the intake manifold is on propery.  

Heck, before we rebuilt the engine the tube that goes
from the idle control motor to the mixture control
unit was OUT and the car idle'd fine.  Now that tube
is hooked up properly, and it jumps the rpms now -
very unusual.  I have hooked up a Bosch K-Jetronic
Fuel Pressure Gauge Tester to my system - the CPR
pressure when WARM is good; I have not had the
opportunity to check it when "overnight" cold (since
the gauges are not mine).  The fuel distributor
pressure is dead on.  I know I have to replace my fuel
accumulator, but I wouldn't figure that would cause me
idling problems.  Any ideas, anyone?

Oh, just a clarification question...  does a dead fuel
accumulator keep you from cranking up when HOT or
"warm"?  If I have the car hot, turn it off, and
crank, I can fire right up.  If it's "warm" - 1 to 2
hours - I have to swap the CPR and cold start
connections.  I just want to make sure that it is the
accumulator and not some other unusual problem.


	
		
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 17:46:50 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: AC Service

Does anybody know where to find the little glass window that shows
the stream of refrigerant flowing thru the system? I have the R12
setup and it really needs to start working soon. I know where the
dryer (accumulator) is in the front passenger wheel-well, but I
couldn't find the window.

Johnny
5518





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