From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1999
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 2004 9:53 PM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. No start.
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

3. R12 Availability (was Re: AC Service)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

5. JZD Address
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

6. Re: Good method of bleeding the Clutch?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Annual R134 Threads...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Stainless Throttle Plate
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. R12 Availability (was Re: AC Service)
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Re: Parking Brakes
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

13. project car...
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

14. Re: No start.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. RE: Stainless Throttle Plate
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

16. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: No start.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Clutch bleeding tool
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. RE: Parking Brakes
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Torsion bars and door hinges
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>

21. RE: No start.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. Just a thank-you note
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 09:32:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: No start.

Ok everyone.  I have an interesting problem - thought
I'd hand it to everyone here.

I went to the car to get errands done.  It cranks and
fires, then boom - dead.  I go to crank again -
nothing.  Lights are on, little buzzers buzz, there is
a "click" "click" noise coming from behind me, but not
even an attempt of crank in the engine.  It's like the
car is dead except for lights and the "buzz" noise
when your seatbelt is off or your door is open.  I
hear the fuel pump buzzing, and the lambda relay is
clicking, but that's it.  The alternator has been
replaced, and my battery is holding average of 12.75
volts.  Any thoughts?




	
		
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 10:51:33 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Why would you want to make your car slower with one of those engines, 
arent they both rated under 100 hp?

I would say there are millions of people trusting their PRV including 
the 7000 or so that are in Deloreans that are still on the road with 
original engines.

Reliable? i have never seen any 1.8 or 1.9 ford escort engine go over 
150,000 miles, i have heard of plenty PRV engines that have done this. 
Maybe you need to do some research on the PRV.

Mark V





On Wednesday, May 5, 2004, at 03:11  AM, George DeLorean wrote:

> Hi everyone.
>             When I buy my DMC sometime in the near future, I want to
> put a different engine in.  Either a Ford 1.8 or 1.9 L four cylinder
> engine, much like what I have in my 93 Escort.  I just don't trust
> the PRV engine, and want something reliable like the 1.9.  I am
> wondering if anyone has done something similar to this, knows the
> approximate cost, how difficult it would be including the
> bellhousing, engine mounts, etc.  Please respond to this message via
> my e mail addy.
>
>                             Thanks,
>
>                         George DeLorean
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 16:35:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: R12 Availability (was Re: AC Service)

Many of the drop-ins contain a small proportion of propane, which for 
some reason scares the crap out of everyone here. For some reason 
nobody is scared about the 10-30 gallons of gasoline though. . . .
(editorial opinion).

At any rate, if you do use a "drop in" here the A/C service places 
will refuse to deal with you if you ever take a car in there because 
it will contaminate their R12. They do work quite well though. 

The reason R12 is coming down in price is like that, as James 
mentions, many of the still-running older cars (pre 1996) have been 
converted, and wrecking yards have to scavenge the R12 as cars are 
scrapped. Although no new R12 is being manufactured, second-hand 
supply is actually increasing as demand goes down. If you can get it 
reasonably it's still the way to go. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> What's really wierd is that over here in Europe, there are "R12 
drop-in 
> replacements" like RS24, and R413 which are ozone-fiendly and 
designed 
> to mix with R12, if still present in a system. R12 usage is so 
illegal 
> that it carries a 3000 fine if you're found out. I believe the 
drop-ins 
> are illegal in the US
> 
> Martin
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 11:50:04 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Your talking about taking an engine designed to be mounted transversely and
re-positioning it in a longitudinal running position. This has some obvious
problems as well as some hidden problems that won't become obvious until
later. When we began building Ranger trucks with the Mazda twin cam 4 cyl
for the 2002 model year many problems showed up that delayed production for
quite a while. The obvious was that accessories such as the AC compressor
and alternator as well as things like the water pump and coolant line
locations were designed into the engine with transverse mounting in mind.
They became problem areas when the engine was moved to a longitudinal
position. However, those were the easy  to solve part of the equation. Once
the engine was installed strange vibrations appeared that weren't there when
running the engine transversely. Engine mounts became super critical and
very sophisticated computer controlled tooling had to be designed to achieve
proper torque and angle without stripping the treads out of the aluminum
blocks and yet achieve the critical torque required to help overcome some of
these problems. There were other areas that also had to be address to get
rid of the vibrations but the point I'm getting at here is that the cost of
re-inventing a drive train design can easily grow beyond the budget of most
back yard mechanics. Once it's done it's a one off item that has no
consistency to make it maintainable by anyone other than the builder and a
few high price custom shops. Granted for some that's not a problem but when
it comes to finding a buyer for your car it will deflate the value by much
more than was spent on the project.

Bruce Benson

> Hi everyone.
>             When I buy my DMC sometime in the near >future, I want to
> put a different engine in.  Either a Ford 1.8 or 1.9 L >four cylinder
> engine, much like what I have in my 93 Escort.  >
Thanks,
>
>                         George DeLorean




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 10:04:55 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: JZD Address

Here is the address that I found for John Delorean

John Delorean
PO Box 1092
Bedminster NJ 07921-1092
USA



Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
http://alessandros120.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 17:30:56 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Good method of bleeding the Clutch?

I find that, at least the first time you do this, it's helpful to 
remove the engine cover lid. Then you can really look down in there 
and find the bleeder. 

Crack the bleeder loose, then put a hose on it into a bottle. Open 
the bleeder with a srench and have the assistant push the clutch 
pedal as you open the bleeder. I generally have not found it 
necessary to to the open/close/open/close drill, I just pump it a few 
dozen times until the fluid is clear without bubbles. Tighten the 
bleeder when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke.

I did make up a tool to make this a bit easier. I brazed a 7 mm deep 
socket onto a piece of 1/4 plumbing pipe that's about a foot long. I 
put a small piece of hose in the socket to act as a seal, and brazed 
a tube fitting on the other end of the pipe. Now I can put this on 
the bleeder, with the hose off the other end of the pipe, and turn 
the pipe with a wrench. Avoids a lot of agony. After bleeding it I 
cap my finger over the end of the pipe and pull it away quickly, this 
spills very little left over fluid. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I will be replacing the clutch master cylinder on one of my cars, 
> main question is that after the new one is installed, what would be 
> the proper way to bleed it out to have it work properly again. If 
> anyone has a little write up on this procedure I would be most 
> greatful. I will be doing this with a partner, so I will be able to 
> have someone help me bleed it out, just what is the best way to 
> reach back there to bleed it I guess I am trying to ask. Any hints, 
> tips, etc. would be great. 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 17:33:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Not to mention that a 4-cylinder is longer than the V-6. You may as 
well put a v-8 in there as far as installation difficulty. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Your talking about taking an engine designed to be mounted 
transversely and
> re-positioning it in a longitudinal running position. This has some 
obvious
> problems as well as some hidden problems that won't become obvious 
until
> later. 

> > Hi everyone.
> >             When I buy my DMC sometime in the near >future, I 
want to
> > put a different engine in.  Either a Ford 1.8 or 1.9 L >four 
cylinder
> > engine, much like what I have in my 93 Escort.  >





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 10:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Cost of conversion is not cheap.  If you have not
purchased the car yet, find one that has a well
maintained engine.  There is nothing specificaly
unreliable about the PRV as compared to other engine
choices.

Conversion is a good way to get more power, not less..

--- George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Hi everyone.
>             When I buy my DMC sometime in the near
> future, I want to 
> put a different engine in.  Either a Ford 1.8 or 1.9
> L four cylinder 
> engine, much like what I have in my 93 Escort.  I
> just don't trust 
> the PRV engine, and want something reliable like the
> 1.9.  I am 
> wondering if anyone has done something similar to
> this, knows the 
> approximate cost, how difficult it would be
> including the 
> bellhousing, engine mounts, etc.  Please respond to
> this message via 
> my e mail addy.
> 
>                             Thanks,
> 
>                         George DeLorean



	
		
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 17:53:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Annual R134 Threads...

Weather muust be getting warmer when the annual R134 threads start to
come out...

Not just DeLorean -- R12 usually outperforms R134 in any system
designed for it. R134 works (quite comfortably IMHO), but R12 does
work better (my Lincolns, for example, will loose their refrigeration
cycle sitting in rush hour traffic with just the engine fan at 500
RPM. Not a problem with electric fans of course).

The issue is cost and convenience. R134 is available to the general
public at any parts house, as low as $2.50 a can (case quantity). R134
tools are also more readily available. R134 responds well to
non-professional mechanics. If your system leaks, losing R134 is less
traumatic than losing R12 (both to your wallet and to the environment).

If I had only one antique vehicle to maintain, R12 would certainly be
the way to go. But with a fleet, the newest of which is 19 years old,
R134 makes more sense for me.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Not sure about back east where Harold lives (and California where
everything
> seems to be deemed environmentally unsafe), but here in Texas, R12
prices
> have been stedily dropping back to early 1990 levels. The word that
I have
> received from our supplier is that as all the new cars are now
running R134,
> and so many people were frightened into, or otherwise convinced that
they
> needed to convert to R134, demand for R12 has dropped so much that
prices
> are now considered "normal" again. Of course, if you have a leak in your
> system, it is against the law to refill it with R12. However, at
least here
> in Texas (and when I was in AZ) a properly functioning R12 system in a
> DeLorean will outperform a DeLorean converted to run on R134.
> 
> James
> 
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 19:10:16 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Stainless Throttle Plate

I too have my doubts about these guys. I have a good relationship with a 
laser cutting company, and wanted to get myself a new muffler 
heatshield. I knew about the "special" one they do made from (quote):

All are made from an unusual alloy of stainless steel that was developed 
for use in high-tech industries including aviation and satellites. 
Similar in appearance and durability to common SS 304 like what DeLorean 
body panels are made, industry recognizes our heat shield alloy as V4A. 
Applications for this material are so unusual that there are only two 
manufactures on the planet that produce it.

Well, I started looking for this stuff, and talked to my laser cutting 
place. They'd never heard of it (not surprising, I thought given how 
unusual it apparently is). So I did a search on Google for "V4A 
stainless" - I invite anyone to do the same. The result is that it 
appears to be just another name for 316 stainless, which is as common as 
304 (harder and more brittle, I believe - cutlery is commonly made from it).

I e-mailed them this query and never received a reply. I would really 
like to be proved wrong on this, but it looks a bit suspect to me.

Martin

PS Got my heatshied from DMCH in the end - a nice modern shield made in 
proper material for a reasonable price.

Jack Singer wrote:

>I ordered and paid to this company but never received the merchandise.
>Then I had to fight to get my money back.
>
>Jack.
>  
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 18:07:32 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: R12 Availability (was Re: AC Service)

Here is how I understand it:  R-12 is a better refrigerant than R-134.
 That is, R-12 provides a more "powerful" endothermic reaction given
the same volumes and pressures of the respective gases.

A R-134 A/C system can be made to perform as well as an R-12 system. 
However, since both gases are condensed to a liquid form and then
allowed to expand, the R-134 gas must be compressed and expanded more
quickly.  This means that at several of the following must happen:

1) R-134 must use a compressor that compresses the gas more
effectively (because more gas must be compressed per unit of time),
thus drawing more power from the engine.
2) To help the condensation of the gas, a better condenser may be
required in some cases.  Same for the evaporator.  In most cases, the
same condenser and evaporator will work "well enough" for both
systems.
3) Depending on the configuration of the compressor/condenser setup,
it may be necessary to replace the lines and fittings between the
compressor and the condenser if the pressure in those lines is
increased significantly.  For instance, I would think a more powerful
compressor could be used to make up for a small condenser, but it may
be necessary to increase the pressure to facilitate more effective
condensation (assuming the condenser can handle the extra pressure).

I think most of the time people settle for a R-134 switchover where
the A/C is not as cold, but it's "good enough".  This minimizes
cost/hassle, and most of the parts don't need to be replaced.

Aaron
#1506


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Not sure about back east where Harold lives (and California where
everything
> seems to be deemed environmentally unsafe), but here in Texas, R12
prices
> have been stedily dropping back to early 1990 levels. The word that
I have
> received from our supplier is that as all the new cars are now
running R134,
> and so many people were frightened into, or otherwise convinced that
they
> needed to convert to R134, demand for R12 has dropped so much that
prices
> are now considered "normal" again. Of course, if you have a leak in
your
> system, it is against the law to refill it with R12. However, at
least here
> in Texas (and when I was in AZ) a properly functioning R12 system
in a
> DeLorean will outperform a DeLorean converted to run on R134.
> 
> James




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 14:21:01 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Parking Brakes

If the lever bracket is bent, the ebrake won't work well (or at all)
because it doesn't put enough tension on the line.  

The lever bracket bends pretty easily if you pull on it too hard- I
imagine because the ebrake isn't braking enough.... isn't that ironic?

You have to take out the seat to get to it.

Jim
1537


On Wed, 5 May 2004 10:38:56 -0400 Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
writes:
> No. But I did devise a way to take up slack at the lever. Using a 
> series of
> slotted washers, I was able to take up excess slack. I think Mike 
> Cohee used
> this same technique with some success as well.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2004 7:23 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Parking Brakes
> 
> I haven't investigated the lever mechanism itself yet -- does 
> anybody
> know if slack can be taken up there as well, perhaps like a
> traditional parking brake cable yoke?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939


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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 15:23:33 -0400
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: project car...

Recently someone posted they were "still looking for a project car" but I
can't find that message now.  Please contact me off list if you are still
looking.

TIMNAGIN (at) MINDSPRING.COM




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 19:29:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: No start.

I would suspect the starter. Get a test light on it and if there is
power there and the solenoid is working the starter needs a rebuild.
Could be the solenoid too but with the test light you will know right
away. Besides when you rebuild the starter you generally get another
solenoid. Check ALL the BIG connections between the battery, starter,
alternator and frame.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Ok everyone.  I have an interesting problem - thought
> I'd hand it to everyone here.
> 
> I went to the car to get errands done.  It cranks and
> fires, then boom - dead.  I go to crank again -
> nothing.  Lights are on, little buzzers buzz, there is
> a "click" "click" noise coming from behind me, but not
> even an attempt of crank in the engine.  It's like the
> car is dead except for lights and the "buzz" noise
> when your seatbelt is off or your door is open.  I
> hear the fuel pump buzzing, and the lambda relay is
> clicking, but that's it.  The alternator has been
> replaced, and my battery is holding average of 12.75
> volts.  Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 14:23:06 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Stainless Throttle Plate

Sounds like "marketing" to me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2004 1:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Throttle Plate


I too have my doubts about these guys. I have a good relationship with a 
laser cutting company, and wanted to get myself a new muffler 
heatshield. I knew about the "special" one they do made from (quote):

All are made from an unusual alloy of stainless steel that was developed 
for use in high-tech industries including aviation and satellites. 
Similar in appearance and durability to common SS 304 like what DeLorean 
body panels are made, industry recognizes our heat shield alloy as V4A. 
Applications for this material are so unusual that there are only two 
manufactures on the planet that produce it.

Well, I started looking for this stuff, and talked to my laser cutting 
place. They'd never heard of it (not surprising, I thought given how 
unusual it apparently is). So I did a search on Google for "V4A 
stainless" - I invite anyone to do the same. The result is that it 
appears to be just another name for 316 stainless, which is as common as 
304 (harder and more brittle, I believe - cutlery is commonly made from it).

I e-mailed them this query and never received a reply. I would really 
like to be proved wrong on this, but it looks a bit suspect to me.

Martin

PS Got my heatshied from DMCH in the end - a nice modern shield made in 
proper material for a reasonable price.

Jack Singer wrote:

>I ordered and paid to this company but never received the merchandise. 
>Then I had to fight to get my money back.
>
>Jack.
>  
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 14:13:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Thanks to all for a great response! :)
   I was basically thinking of how the 1.8/9 is common
with more available parts, easier to work on, etc.  I
was also thinking about the long run where it would be
less expensive to have a Ford engine rather than the
PRV.  I guess the main thing I am thinking about is
that aren't parts, even down to stuff like wires/plugs
for the PRV hard to find/expensive?  That was the main
focus I had in mind.  Plus, I am familiar with the 1.9
seeing as how I drive a car with it. :)  Aside from
those things though, I wouldn't mind the PRV.  
   Some other things that came to mind were the engine
hot/no-start prob. associated with the fuel
accumulator, if my memory serves.  Not to mention a
whole boat load of special tools for the PRV itself. 
I don't mean to trash or discredit the PRV, I am just
going with something that is easier serviced and so
on.  Again, if I am amiss there, please do correct me.
That's it for now, and hope to hear back from you
soon.

                      Sincerely,

                   George DeLorean


	
		
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 22:10:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: No start.

Jump the starter at the solenoid and see if it turns. Trigger wire is
red/white as I recall.

Make sure the transmission is out of gear first.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok everyone.  I have an interesting problem - thought
> I'd hand it to everyone here.
> 
> I went to the car to get errands done.  It cranks and
> fires, then boom - dead.  I go to crank again -
> nothing.  Lights are on, little buzzers buzz, there is
> a "click" "click" noise coming from behind me, but not
> even an attempt of crank in the engine.  It's like the
> car is dead except for lights and the "buzz" noise
> when your seatbelt is off or your door is open.  I
> hear the fuel pump buzzing, and the lambda relay is
> clicking, but that's it.  The alternator has been
> replaced, and my battery is holding average of 12.75
> volts.  Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 22:05:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Clutch bleeding tool

I simply inserted a 1/4" check valve between two pieces of tubing.
Place one end over the bleeder screw, the other in a bottle, and pump
away (watch the reservior -- will be dry in 5-7 pedal pumps). Note
that the cylinder is bench bled first so I don't start pumping against
dry walls.

Even though my exhaust crossover pipe is gone, the bleeder screw is
still accessed more easily from above (heater core hoses are in the
way). Cylinder itself is installed more easily from below. Use a deep
well socket (6 point) on a 12" extension.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I find that, at least the first time you do this, it's helpful to 
> remove the engine cover lid. Then you can really look down in there 
> and find the bleeder. 
> 
> Crack the bleeder loose, then put a hose on it into a bottle. Open 
> the bleeder with a srench and have the assistant push the clutch 
> pedal as you open the bleeder. I generally have not found it 
> necessary to to the open/close/open/close drill, I just pump it a few 
> dozen times until the fluid is clear without bubbles. Tighten the 
> bleeder when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke.
> 
> I did make up a tool to make this a bit easier. I brazed a 7 mm deep 
> socket onto a piece of 1/4 plumbing pipe that's about a foot long. I 
> put a small piece of hose in the socket to act as a seal, and brazed 
> a tube fitting on the other end of the pipe. Now I can put this on 
> the bleeder, with the hose off the other end of the pipe, and turn 
> the pipe with a wrench. Avoids a lot of agony. After bleeding it I 
> cap my finger over the end of the pipe and pull it away quickly, this 
> spills very little left over fluid. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > I will be replacing the clutch master cylinder on one of my cars, 
> > main question is that after the new one is installed, what would be 
> > the proper way to bleed it out to have it work properly again. If 
> > anyone has a little write up on this procedure I would be most 
> > greatful. I will be doing this with a partner, so I will be able to 
> > have someone help me bleed it out, just what is the best way to 
> > reach back there to bleed it I guess I am trying to ask. Any hints, 
> > tips, etc. would be great.




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 17:59:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Parking Brakes

Andy, The parking brake pads are self adjusting somewhat. If you will take
the carter pin out that holds the long bolt in and pull on the brakes a few
times the pads will tighten in. Then put the carter pin back. That keeps the
bolt head from turning. If any questions feel free to call.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2004 7:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Parking Brakes


In a message dated 5/4/2004 10:06:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> After just completing a complete brake overhaul
> including new parking brake pads the parking brakes
> are as weak as before. I adjusted as normal but they
> are WEAK! Any suggestions? If this situation is normal
> I am surprised there isn't a pile of wrecked Jaguars
> at the bottom of a big hill somewhere!!
> Thanks
> Steve T

Steve,

are you sure BOTH cables are adjusted properly?  maybe only one cable is
getting tight.  something is wrong because my parking brake works perfectly
even on a 35 deg or so incline (i put it in reverse too, just in case)

Andy



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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 19:41:58 -0000
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>
Subject: Torsion bars and door hinges

Hi,

I'm have noticed that my torsion bars and door hinges are really
close to each other - is this normal? how far apart should they be?

I've got a picture and some more info here(on top of the page):

http://home.broadpark.no/~wstarber/dmc/log.html

Also, is it possible to remove the panel that the torsion bar
brackets are mounted on? I want to straighten it out and 
epoxy it on before I install screws as described in "T-Bar Roof 
Reinforcement" (http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm).

Anyone tried that? is the panel fastened only by glue, or are there
hidden screws/bolts somewhere? I can't find the panel in the parts 
manual...

Any help appreciated.

Regards,

Wilhelm S.
#10816








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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 18:35:34 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: No start.

Jeremiah, Think of the solenoid as a big relay. When power is applied to the
solenoid coil the plunger kick's in the drive gear and the motor turns. If
the contacts of the power transfer are bad or burnt there won't be enough
current to kick in the motor or even turn it over. Make sure all the wires
are clean and in good shape. If there are any crimps in the wires make sure
they are tight. If you have an early vin car there was a Fix for the starter
relay.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2004 10:32 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] No start.


Ok everyone.  I have an interesting problem - thought
I'd hand it to everyone here.

I went to the car to get errands done.  It cranks and
fires, then boom - dead.  I go to crank again -
nothing.  Lights are on, little buzzers buzz, there is
a "click" "click" noise coming from behind me, but not
even an attempt of crank in the engine.  It's like the
car is dead except for lights and the "buzz" noise
when your seatbelt is off or your door is open.  I
hear the fuel pump buzzing, and the lambda relay is
clicking, but that's it.  The alternator has been
replaced, and my battery is holding average of 12.75
volts.  Any thoughts?






__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Yahoo! Groups Links









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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 23:36:35 -0000
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Just a thank-you note

Thanks to whoever put the parts manual into that program. What a 
great idea! I got so tired of reading it in .pdf Well thanks again.

Grady(I will use this till the Yankee Grady mentions it)




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