From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2002
Date: Friday, May 07, 2004 2:54 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What are these things?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. RE: What are these things?
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

3. Re: Torsion bars removed.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Raffle car (no it is not for sale and TOP TEN reasons to buy a raffle ticket)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Technical Battery and fuse question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. So far so good
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Local tire shop
From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>

8. Re: Re: Hard/No Starting - Solved!
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

9. Re: Technical Battery and fuse question
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Re: Local tire shop
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

11. Re: Local tire shop
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

12. Re: Re: PRV Fuel Enrichment
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. bosch coil part number
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Local tire shop
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

15. Re: So far so good
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

16. Re: Torsion bars removed.
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

17. Evap Case Seal Install
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: Local tire shop
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

19. Re: Re: Torsion bars removed.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Estimate
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Special tools
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

22. RE: Re: Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Estimate
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Local tire shop
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

25. Re: Estimate
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 6 May 2004 21:41:30 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What are these things?

#1. Lambda counter, it tells you when to change your O2 sensor when  
the "LAMBDA" lights up on your dash every 30,000 miles.

#2. ?

#3. A/C drain tube.

Mark V


On Thursday, May 6, 2004, at 08:41  PM, ryanpwright wrote:

> A few things I've found on my car:
>
> 1. Driver's side, under the dash. Just ahead of the clutch pedal is a
> little white (yellowish, due to age) box with two cables. I'm almost
> certain this is part of the speedometer; one cable goes into the floor
> and the other into the dash. However, there is an electrical connector
> here, and it's been disconnected. What's it do?
>
> 2. Passenger's side, under the dash. From the far right (closest to
> the exterior) of the car is a vaccumn line. It's hanging down, 2-3
> feet long, connected to nothing. What is this and where does it go?
>
> 3. Between the spare tire and the dash, just to the left of the fuel
> pump (when looking at the pump from the front of the car). My two fuel
> lines snake into the abyss. Further left is some A/C related stuff.
> Between the A/C stuff and the fuel pump, sitting at the "bottom" is a
> black rubber hose. Slightly thicker than the fuel lines. It's just
> sitting there, with one end snaking into the dash and the other end
> wide open, connected to nothing. What's it for?
>
> Thank you for your assistance,
>
> -Ryan
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 08:33:50 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: What are these things?

( Moderator's note: There were several responses to these questions, all saying the same thing. Rather that fill mailboxes with almost identical posts I just passed on the first couple to come into the queue. )


Ryan,

May be able to answer that first question for you.  If you check out
http://www.babbtechnology.com/pics/3472images/inside/pg3.htm I have a
picture (3rd from the bottom) that shows the hood release, lambda
counter, and inertia switch (hopefully I got them correct)  you can
click on the smaller thumbnail for a larger picture of this area.

Hope this helps!

-----Original Message-----
From: ryanpwright [mailto:yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2004 9:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] What are these things?

A few things I've found on my car:

1. Driver's side, under the dash. Just ahead of the clutch pedal is a
little white (yellowish, due to age) box with two cables. I'm almost
certain this is part of the speedometer; one cable goes into the floor
and the other into the dash. However, there is an electrical connector
here, and it's been disconnected. What's it do?
 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 04:19:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bars removed.

Removing the torsion bars is one thing REMOVING THE DOORS IS
ANOTHER!!!!!! If the doors were closing and fit properly there is no
good reason to remove them. It is VERY DIFFICULT to properly align
them so it is not recomended to remove them. Taking them off and
reinstalling them it is VERY EASY to damage them and very hard to
repair. If you are holding the doors open use a prop from the doorsill
NOT THE FLOOR. If the car was to move the doors will fall. Be careful
with the torsion bars not to bang or scratch them. Wrap them in a
towel. Be careful of the edges of the "T" roof panel. They are
EXTREMELY SHARP. Before reinstaling the torsion bars make sure the
anchor brackets fit the splines nicely and the threaded holes for the
anchor bolts are not stripped. Inspect the end where the allen wrench
enters the torsion bar for cracks, sometimes they crack and it is very
hard to remove the anchor brackets and the allen wrench could slip. Be
sure when you adjust the allen wrench is COMPLETELY  engaged into the
hole. I also use fender covers on the fenders and towels all over so I
don't scratch anything. Keep bystanders away when working the torsion
bars. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I removed my torsion bars today, it went like a charm, pictures
> and some info here:
> 
> http://home.broadpark.no/~wstarber/dmc/torsion.html
> 
> Both my bars had been touching the hinges, and had a small dents,
> I'll put some rubber between the hinge and bar - thanks for the tip 
> David.
> 
> (msg. #41086)
> Rick: did you have to remove the doors when you removed the
> torsion bar bracket plate? It seems like my door hinges are mounted
> on top of that plate? are there different versions out there?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Wilhelm S.
> #10816




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 00:30:33 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car (no it is not for sale and TOP TEN reasons to buy a raffle ticket)

There was an error on our part in putting the sale pending on the raffle car 
The car for sale is the 170 mile car and there is a sale pending on that.

So for those of you that brought that to my attention  I thank you I was 
wrong you were right
LOL 

But for the records the raffle car is NOT for sale and WILL be raffled off in 
Pigeon Forge and  yes we have met the minimum and beyond.  It should be 
removed by the time you get this.

REMEMBER Register and help make this the biggest and best event ever



Now for the top ten reasons for buying  a raffle ticket

10.  Where else can you get a great car this cheap

9.  Can't win one at a DOA event 

8.  Cheap way to get new powdercoated wheels and new tires (not Goodyear 
NC's).

7.  At least Josh can't win it and sell it on E-bay :-)

6.  By winning it you will take away Dave Swingles transportation to work and 
he will be stuck driving his BMW ( poor Dave) 

5. Now you have a car with powdercoated valve covers (look out Curtis)

4. Thats the best you could do with your tax return 

3  When people say how much did you pay for the car and you say $50 they 
won't believe you like everything else we tell them about the car.

2.  At least the interior is new and you don't have to mess with the dash and 
speakers.

1.  Now your wife/husband can have their own and leave you alone.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 04:33:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Technical Battery and fuse question

The hydrogen gases have nothing to do with the problems in the fuse
area. A real simple "fix" for the battery is to stick a piece of
vacuum hose on the vent and run it to the little vent hose that is
already there in the right rear wheel well. On my Delco battery it had
two vent ports, one in front and one to the rear. I plugged the rear
one and ran the hose from the front one over the top of the battery to
the inside of the vent hose. The battery vent port is a kind of
flattened oval but a vacuum hose fits it nicely. I got the idea from a
Jaguar where the battery was in the trunk and it had a vent hose on
it. If your battery is giving off enough hydrogen to cause a problem
you should have the battery and the alternator tested. Modern
batteries do not gas much unless they are bad or the alternator is
overcharging it. If you think this is bad you should see on many old
cars the battery was under the driver's seat! They would leak and melt
the batttery box, they would gas and destroy the seat, and if they
were overcharged they would gas the occupants!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I believe your observation is correct and the only real cure is - 
> Ventilation! 
> 
> In some cars with batteries in the trunk or under the back seat a 
> vent connected directly to the battery is used to direct any gases 
> to the outside. Lincoln has one for the LS that I have been 
> investigating because it connects directly to a vent similar to 
> those on Delco batteries. Since there is a vent in the back of the 
> DeLorean battery case, a straight forward adaptation appears 





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 6 May 2004 22:11:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: So far so good

I thought I would take time out to thank everyone who
replied to my no start problem.  Casey and I worked on
the car today, and we got it running.  We actually
turned the belts to help rock the motor.  Then we
"hotwired" the car by attaching wire to the two bolts
on the solenoid.  Once it cranked, we noticed that the
resistor (0.5 ohm) wasn't getting power.  We took a
wire and connected it from the "battery jump" positive
pole next to the coolant bottle to the resistor - and
the car fired right up.  We took the wire off thinking
it would (and should) die - it didn't.  We cranked it
about 5 more times, and the car fired every time. 
Dunno guys, weird car.  Anyhoo, there aer probably
still starter issues, but at least there's some
progress to report.  Give me your opinions; I'd like
to hear them.  Have some substance behind your
opinions - not just blatant "It still isn't fixed"
comments.  TELL me why it isn't fixed yet; I don't
need a nag comment.  Thank you.

Jeremiah


	
		
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 01:20:43 -0400
From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

Mark,
 List,
                I work at a tire shop. A lot of tire shops usually don't ask
or care what kind of car you have but there are some shops out there that
follow the rules and ask what kind of car it is for. Basically the rules
state that you aren't supposed to install the incorrect tire size on a car
because it is a liability issue and could potentially harm the customer and
/ or the car itself unless otherwise stated in a book (fitment guide) that
the tire size is an optional size that has been proven to properly fit the
car and not affect its operation... However, I don't see a reason why this
person was so persistent on knowing what kind of car it was for.  The person
may have just wanted to be a pain.

Have a great day!

Rex


----- Original Message -----
From: "DMCVIN6683" <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2004 10:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Local tire shop


> I was looking for a set of used rear tires at a local tire shop and
> they would not even tell me if they had any P235/60HR15 tires unless i
> told them what they were for, i just said "they were for my car" and he
> insisted i tell him what kind of car it was for before he would bother
> to look for them. Anybody ever run into this problem with their car
> before?
>
> I wanted to buy 4 new matching tires next year because i still have
> lots of tread on my fronts.
>
> Mark V
>
>
>
> Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
> http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
> http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
> http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 08:51:35 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Hard/No Starting - Solved!

Have those 8mm wires a special or higher resistance ?

If yes - compare them to the original wires.
If they are the same - like no resistance - leave them on the car, they
should isolate better than the stock wires.

By the way - nice to read that those "high voltage" coils fail like I
thought.
Buy a brand name that has been used in millions of cars and you can be
sure that stuff is approved and works.

Nice boxes and powerful names don't guarantee for quality.

Elvis & 6548


>      Hey all, 
>                For those that were helping me with my no starting problem
> I'd
> like to send out a big thanks to them. I haven't been able to work on it
> for
> the last few days, been busy and have a sick animal to tend too. 
>         
>                 Anyway, got around to it today. I was convinced that it
> wasn't
> a vaccuum or fuel issue so I started with spark on someones suggestion.
> Turns out that the new MSD Blaster 2 that put on over the winter is either
> bad or my car just doesn't really like it. I put on the 20+ year original
> and it
> fired right up and ran perfect. Starts every time now. So now my question
> is
> when I put the msd coil on I also put on 8mm wires. Now that I'm back to
> the
> original coil would it still be ok to use the 8mm or should I go back to
> the original
> 7mm? What would the effects be with the new wires?  
> 
>                I guess I'm just gonna buy a new original bosch coil to put
> on. Thanks
> again to everyone that replied. You were all great.
> 
>                                 Jason #5903
> 

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Jetzt aktivieren unter http://www.gmx.net/info




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 12:12:17 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Technical Battery and fuse question

No, the fuses / fuxe box melts because the contacts simply are to weak !

Elvis & 6548


> Dear List,
>   Over the last months I have been working towards becoming a future 
> auto tech. Anyway I have been going through basic electrical and 
> studying batteries. I did not know that a by-product of the 
> discharging is the release of hydorgen gas.
>   Could this be part of the reason that fuses in the fuse box melt 
> and need replacement more then other cars? Is there anyway to protect 
> them? (Just a thought)
>     ~Kramer
>     #10610

-- 
"Sie haben neue Mails!" - Die GMX Toolbar informiert Sie beim Surfen!
Jetzt aktivieren unter http://www.gmx.net/info




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 05:51:13 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I was looking for a set of used rear tires at a local tire shop and 
> they would not even tell me if they had any P235/60HR15 tires
unless i 
> told them what they were for, i just said "they were for my car"
and he 
> insisted i tell him what kind of car it was for before he would
bother 
> to look for them. Anybody ever run into this problem with their car 
> before?
<SNIP>

People are strange about things like this. In the past when I've
inquired about parts 
for my car _at_dml_ my local auto parts store, I've been asked what kind of
car it's for, and 
when I have told them, I always get the same question shot back, even
though I have 
assured them that my car isn't in their system; "Who makes DeLorean?"
And while this 
normally isn't a problem, I did get into a nasty shouting match with
a guy _at_dml_ a 
CarQuest once. He refused to sell me a foot of chemical resistant
hose for my clutch 
reserviour. Simply on the basis that I owned a DeLorean. Something
that seemed to 
puzzle his co-workers, as much as it did me. Drove over to NAPA, and
they gave me 
the hose without question. I could live an eternity, and never
understand people. But I 
do know that after 3 years, and 4 cars that I've worked on, I've
never been back to 
CarQuest.

I've never had this problem with a tire shop. Although in one
instance, when I told the 
guy over the phone what tire sizes I was requesting, he did ask me if
it was a Porsche 
I was ordering for. But even then, that wasn't until after he
answered my questions.

In any case, when ordering parts such as this, question why they need
to have this 
information. If they don't give you the answer you want, then buy
from someone else 
who will. And while it's only speculation on my part, my guess would
be that the guy 
you spoke with probably only knows how to search for the tires in his
online 
inventory by make/model of car. Most likely you posed a threat to
him, because you 
were going to make him work harder than he wanted to, since he didn't
know any 
other way. (Spending the past 4 years staring at an AS400 terminal,
I've learned to 
dictate to people over the phone how to pull up account history on
everything from 
my cable bill, to auto loan! "I can't find your account history"
changes pretty quick 
when you tell them how to navigate the notes, and ledger screens). So
either call back 
later to speak with someone else, or take your business to a more
competent 
establishment.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 03:30:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

Mark,
I haven't run into this problem since if someone asks
me what car a part is for I tell them!
Why didn't you want to tell them it was for a
DeLorean?
They probably wanted to make sure you had the right
sizes for the car.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney

--- DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:
> I was looking for a set of used rear tires at a
> local tire shop and 
> they would not even tell me if they had any
> P235/60HR15 tires unless i 
> told them what they were for, i just said "they were
> for my car" and he 
> insisted i tell him what kind of car it was for
> before he would bother 
> to look for them. Anybody ever run into this problem
> with their car 
> before?
> 

> 
> 
> 
> Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
> http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
> http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
>
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 10:00:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Fuel Enrichment

Well, I'd consider 1 and 3 to be the same thing (and I've never heard of 
the electric element failing, and even if it did, you're not likely to 
notice), 5 and 6 do the same thing, controlled by two different 
sensors/switches and it's all part of 7, and 8 isn't used on  the 
DeLorean because it has an accumulator.

Not that complicated!

Martin

Jim Strickland wrote:
> I don't remember exactly which 6.  I just remember back in the good old
> days that I came up with that number.  
> 
> Here's some
> 1) warm up regulator circuit (electronic CPR bimetallic arm heater)
> 2) acceleration enrichment (vacuum controlled control pressure)
> 3) CPR (engine radiating heat affecting bimetallic arm)
> 4) Cold start valve
> 5) Wide open throttle switch
> 6) Lambda switch- fixed frequency valve duty cycle during warmup
> 7) Lambda system- variable frequency valve duty cycle depending on O2
> sensor
> 8) Hot start relay
> 
> pick your favorite 6.
> 
> Jim





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 04:54:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: bosch coil part number

Hello all,
 
Anyone know the bosch part number for the coil for the delorean?
 
thanx
 
jordan
 
11613


		
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 12:08:20 -0000
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

I was looking for tires last week. I walk into a large shop and give 
them the sizes. They say "we are just getting in some of these newer 
sizes and don't have them in yet" I did not tell him the original 
tires have been on the rim for 22 years!

I am getting tires this morning. When I called this shop they did not 
care what the car was and did not skip a beat when I told them the 2 
different sizes. 

Mike Walsh
17084




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 15:03:07 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: So far so good

Sounds like you need to spend some quality time with 
your electrical system.  The behaviour you describe
is often explained by weak electrical contacts.  
Clean up every relay blade and socket.  Clean spade
terminals, ground points, connectors, anything 
you can get your hands on.  Even light corrosion 
can cause enough resistance in a circuit to prevent
it from operating properly.

--
Mike



> I thought I would take time out to thank everyone who
> replied to my no start problem.  Casey and I worked on
> the car today, and we got it running.  We actually
> turned the belts to help rock the motor.  Then we
> "hotwired" the car by attaching wire to the two bolts
> on the solenoid.  Once it cranked, we noticed that the
> resistor (0.5 ohm) wasn't getting power.  We took a
> wire and connected it from the "battery jump" positive
> pole next to the coolant bottle to the resistor - and
> the car fired right up.  We took the wire off thinking
> it would (and should) die - it didn't.  We cranked it
> about 5 more times, and the car fired every time. 
> Dunno guys, weird car.  Anyhoo, there aer probably
> still starter issues, but at least there's some
> progress to report.  Give me your opinions; I'd like
> to hear them.  Have some substance behind your
> opinions - not just blatant "It still isn't fixed"
> comments.  TELL me why it isn't fixed yet; I don't
> need a nag comment.  Thank you.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 15:55:01 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bars removed.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I removed my torsion bars today, it went like a charm, pictures
> and some info here:
> 
> http://home.broadpark.no/~wstarber/dmc/torsion.html
> 
> Both my bars had been touching the hinges, and had a small dents,
> I'll put some rubber between the hinge and bar - thanks for the tip 
> David.
> 
> (msg. #41086)
> Rick: did you have to remove the doors when you removed the
> torsion bar bracket plate? It seems like my door hinges are mounted
> on top of that plate? are there different versions out there?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Wilhelm S.
> #10816

Hi Wilhelm.

Yes, to get the roof support off, you have to remove the doors and 
the hinges.  It's a lot of work.  If your roof support is not too 
bad, I would leave it alone, perhaps use some Loctite "Extend" brand 
rust pacifier if it has light surface rust.  My roof support was very 
rusty from the car being outside for 4 years, and my doors were 
already off, so it was worth taking it out, and sandblasting in my 
case.  If your roof support is really rusty, though, you might 
consider doing it too.

I hope you're having fun doing all these things.  I consider it one 
of the best aspects of owning a Delorean, myself.  Not a chore at all.

Rick.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 16:07:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Evap Case Seal Install

Here's a new on on me. And it seems there's a lot of activity at the 
moment fixing air conditioners so maybe someone figured it out. 

After swapping the evaporator (a job in itself!), everything is 
almost back together. Has anyone figured out a reasonable way to put 
back in place the rubber seal thing that goes around the tubes coming 
thru the front firewall? I've been wrestling with this darn thing for 
what seems like hours. There is just no room above it to manipulate 
the rubber in place around the metal ring, and if it's not sealed up 
it's an invitation to water leaks when driving in the rain. 

I don't thing putting it in place prior to the tubes is the answer 
because the process of putting the tubing thru would just knock it 
off. I run into cars all the time where this thing is loose, I think 
now I know why. 

Any other bright ideas out there?

Dave S




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 17:01:12 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

I tried to do my homework first and printed out both sizes from the 
websites of 4 different tire shops local to me. I decided on the 
Dunlop GT Qualifiers from this "Just Tires" place and called the shop 
to verify they had 2 of each size in stock. The guy never questioned 
anything. When I got there, they did ask what car it was for and I 
told them. (I had brought just the 4 wheels in the bed of my pickup 
to the store) No further issues, although he did want all the vehicle 
info because that's what his terminal screen was asking for. They 
even offered my old NCT's back, but I declined as mine were severely 
dry-rotted. Got home, zipped them all back on and I'm very pleased 
with the Dunlops.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I was looking for a set of used rear tires at a local tire shop and 
> they would not even tell me if they had any P235/60HR15 tires 
unless i 
> told them what they were for, i just said "they were for my car" 
and he 
> insisted i tell him what kind of car it was for before he would 
bother 
> to look for them. Anybody ever run into this problem with their car 
> before?
> 
> I wanted to buy 4 new matching tires next year because i still have 
> lots of tread on my fronts.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> 
> Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
> http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
> http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
> http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 11:11:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion bars removed.

>From the original picture, it looked to me like the
torsion bar was rubbing the rubber/plastic sleeve that
the door wires run through, not the hinges.  Maybe I
just missed something (?)

Steve
--- twinenginedmc12
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wilhelm Starberg"
> <wilm_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > I removed my torsion bars today, it went like a
> charm, pictures
> > and some info here:
> > 
> >
> http://home.broadpark.no/~wstarber/dmc/torsion.html
> > 
> > Both my bars had been touching the hinges, and had
> a small dents,
> > I'll put some rubber between the hinge and bar -
> thanks for the tip 
> > David.
> > 
> > (msg. #41086)
> > Rick: did you have to remove the doors when you
> removed the
> > torsion bar bracket plate? It seems like my door
> hinges are mounted
> > on top of that plate? are there different versions
> out there?
> > 
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Wilhelm S.
> > #10816
> 
> Hi Wilhelm.
> 
> Yes, to get the roof support off, you have to remove
> the doors and 
> the hinges.  It's a lot of work.  If your roof
> support is not too 
> bad, I would leave it alone, perhaps use some
> Loctite "Extend" brand 
> rust pacifier if it has light surface rust.  My roof
> support was very 
> rusty from the car being outside for 4 years, and my
> doors were 
> already off, so it was worth taking it out, and
> sandblasting in my 
> case.  If your roof support is really rusty, though,
> you might 
> consider doing it too.
> 
> I hope you're having fun doing all these things.  I
> consider it one 
> of the best aspects of owning a Delorean, myself. 
> Not a chore at all.
> 
> Rick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 18:13:30 -0000
From: "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Estimate

Hey All. I am a college student that wants to work on and own a D. 
That means I have very little money to spend on one. I really dont 
care if it runs when I get it. What would be a reasonable price for 
an '81 black/manual D?(And no I am not asking you guys charging 28 
grand for yours) I know everyone says it isn't worth it to fix it up 
and it is better to just buy a nicer one with more money but working 
on it is what I really want, not to just drive it around(I already 
have a fiance)

Thanks!
    Grady




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 19:28:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Special tools

Hi All

The comment about needing "special tools" for the PRV got me thinking. 
There are some special tools the Renault produced (eg those for holding 
up the cam sprockets when takina a head off), but there're definitely 
some tools in my toolbox that live to do one job and one job only on a 
DeLorean. Not necessarily unusual, but ones I've made an effort to buy 
that aren't necessarily part of a standard cheap (metric) toolkit. Dave 
Swingle's clutch bleeding tool is a great idea, and I'm going to make 
one, but meanwhile I thought it'd be fun to hear from other people on 
what they've bought to do some tasks on their DeLoreans. I'll start with 
some of mine:

10, 11, 13, 17, 19mm strait ratchet spanners - absolutely fantastic 
tools from Halfords which give you a strait-ended ring spanner where the 
ring ratchets inside its housing. They have a 5 degree "click" and all 
those sizes have very specific jobs that a socket can't reach - for 
example the bolts holding the top of the muffler heatshield on (10mm), 
the two bolts on the side of the intake holding the throttle spool on 
(11mm), the two bolts holding the left exhaust bracket to the engine 
(17), and trailing arm bolt nuts (19mm)

A good set of circlip pliers, both normal (AC pulley bearings) and 
reversed (distributor)

6-point 11mm socket on a 1/2" drive - for rusty manifold studs

17mm crowsfoot (accumulator feed hose, and one of the catalytic 
converter nuts)

45 degree telescopic wheel wrench - meant for wheel nuts but with a 17mm 
socket on the end, makes short work of the large exhaust manifold nuts! 
(the 45 degree of the handle makes accessibility a lot easier).

3/8" allen key on a 1/2" drive for doing the torsion bar without paranoia

10mm allen key on a 1/2" drive for getting the cam sprockets off

Quality "screwdriver-style" 3mm allen key for mixture adjustment

2' long screwdriver for checking when no1 is at TDC (and metal rod will do!)

Can of silicone spray for lubing up rubber components (putting water 
hoses on, getting that pain-in-the-bum left side steering rack bush in)

Well, that's not all, but certainly some of the more well used ones!

Martin
DMUK
www.delorean.co.uk






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 12:18:09 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation

It is in THIS months issue, or the latest.
- VB

If you order one of my website, you will get the instruction manual.
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation
>Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 20:36:04 -0000
>
> >> Some of you who are subscribers to DCS magazine might have seen my
> >> 4 page article on how to replace your electric antenna.
>
>Just found DCS magazine. Which issue was it? I'd like to buy it, as I
>will need to replace my antenna soon.
>
>Thank you,
>
>-Ryan
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > I am considering buying Dakota Digital's Cruise Control kit.
> > Is there anyone out there who has installed this before?
> > If so, which "control handle" did you use, and where did you put it?
> >
> > Some of you who are subscribers to DCS magazine might have seen my
> > 4 page article on how to replace your electric antenna.
> > I had a lot of fun doing that and I would like to make another
> > article on how to install the Dakota Digital cruise control system
> > and make a manual of how to do it.
> > I am trying to become a dealer for them so I can offer them
> > for a discount by buying a few of them in bulk.
> > I feel there is a demand for this, and if I can figure out how
> > to make the instructions easy enough I think there are plenty
> > of Delorean owners who would want to add cruise control.
> >
> > I certainly want to get it done BEFORE I drive thousands of miles
> > to Pigeon Forge!
> >
> > Please contact me and let me know your experience with this or any
> > other cruise control system you have installed on the D.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > - Videobob
> > VIN#5278
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 19:42:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Estimate

This topic comes up often. The problem with your logic is that you
must budget for the parts and you have no idea what you will need and
what it will cost. By going in "on the cheap" ie; buying a car that
needs a lot of work (and possibly isn't even running) unless you have
worked on Deloreans and understand what they usually need you are
setting yourself up for a major disappointment. By "stretching" to buy
the car you will not have sufficient funds to see the project through.
You could easily spend more on parts and labor than you will spend on
the car. A "dead" 81 5-speed can be worth anywhere from $1,000 to
$10,000 of course depending on condition. The trouble is if it doesn't
run you can't properly assess the condition. It could have a blown
engine, trans, clutch, brakes, etc. If it doesn't drive you are buying
a pile of parts that happens to look like a car. It could also take a
long time for you to get it working. You need a good place to work on
the car and tools so figure that into your costs. Unless you are very
handy and have a lot of time and money the safest way is to at least
buy a running car. Now you are in the $7-$10 K range. Maybe you should
wait until you can save up enough so you CAN buy the better car. You
don't need $28 K either. You should be able to get a very nice driver
for $12-$15 K.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <dreammotorcar_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey All. I am a college student that wants to work on and own a D. 
> That means I have very little money to spend on one. I really dont 
> care if it runs when I get it. What would be a reasonable price for 
> an '81 black/manual D?(And no I am not asking you guys charging 28 
> grand for yours) I know everyone says it isn't worth it to fix it up 
> and it is better to just buy a nicer one with more money but working 
> on it is what I really want, not to just drive it around(I already 
> have a fiance)
> 
> Thanks!
>     Grady




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 19:51:23 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Local tire shop

Perhaps I'm being a little paranoid here, but you could consider it
somewhat of a safety issue.  No, I don't mean if they install the
wrong tire sizes.  For example, if I was a big bad car thief, I think
I would probably stand around the counter in auto parts and tire
stores.  Then, when someone walks up and says "Hi, I need 4 tires for
my Lamborghini Diablo," I would promptly follow them home and see
where I could come back later to "pick it up."  

Along those same lines, when I go to a car audio shop, many times when
I make purchases they ask me for my address, what kind of vehicle I
drive, and what kind of equipment I have.  If you want to know DUMB,
then just go ahead and give them that information.  When some jerky
applies there for a job and starts prodding around in the customer
database, suddenly he knows that you have a plasma display and 15"
subwoofers in your DeLorean on 123 West Main St.  

I stopped telling people what kind of car I ACTUALLY have a few months
ago when someone at a shop told me that the PRV-6 was used in boats,
not cars.  So, now every shop I deal with gets to hear how I have a
1980 Volvo 262 with the 2.85L B28F.  Much less hassle.  :)


Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Mark,
> I haven't run into this problem since if someone asks
> me what car a part is for I tell them!
> Why didn't you want to tell them it was for a
> DeLorean?
> They probably wanted to make sure you had the right
> sizes for the car.
> 
> Andrew
> VIN 2883
> Sydney
> 
> --- DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > I was looking for a set of used rear tires at a
> > local tire shop and 
> > they would not even tell me if they had any
> > P235/60HR15 tires unless i 
> > told them what they were for, i just said "they were
> > for my car" and he 
> > insisted i tell him what kind of car it was for
> > before he would bother 
> > to look for them. Anybody ever run into this problem
> > with their car 
> > before?






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 19:53:00 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Estimate

This is really an impossible question to answer without
more information.  What can you do as far as car maintenance
goes?  Body work?  Mechanical?  Electrical?  What kind of 
tools do you have access to?  Where will you work 
on it?  How often will you be able to work on it?  What 
is your end target - a running car?  A nice car?  A 
concours winner?  What is your personal history with 
completing big projects?  Do you get halfway and quit?
Do you see things through to the end?  How long are you 
or those around you willing to put up with a big, non-running 
money pit?  The way you answer these questions will give you 
an idea of how distressed a car you can handle and what 
the price difference is between what you want to start with and
what you want to end up with.

Personally, until you have your own house with an extra two car
garage and about $500 a month of truly disposable income to 
devote to a project car, you are better off not starting 
something like this.  What starts out as a neat idea turns 
into a nightmare if you don't have a good place to store the
car and all of the parts you are going to need to take off or
buy, a budget to apply to the restoration, and a plan to know
when you are done.  It's really bad if you have to keep
moving the project from place to place.  And it's excruciating
if your fiance starts to get annoyed with the whole thing.

--
Mike



> Hey All. I am a college student that wants to work on and own a D. 
> That means I have very little money to spend on one. I really dont 
> care if it runs when I get it. What would be a reasonable price for 
> an '81 black/manual D?(And no I am not asking you guys charging 28 
> grand for yours) I know everyone says it isn't worth it to fix it up 
> and it is better to just buy a nicer one with more money but working 
> on it is what I really want, not to just drive it around(I already 
> have a fiance)
> 
> Thanks!
>     Grady
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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