From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2005
Date: Sunday, May 09, 2004 10:40 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Buzzer backwards?
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. RE: Buzzer backwards?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

3. Re: Re: reset lambda?
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

4. Artistic interpretation of a 2004 De Lorean.
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <Jeff_at_dml_88-mph.com>

5. Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Artistic interpretation of a 2004 De Lorean.
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

7. Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Buzzer backwards?
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

10. Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: throttle cable tip
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

14. RE: Re: Closing your doors from the outside
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

15. glove box bulb?
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. New Owner! and inspection questions
From: AdamRayVaughn_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: New Owner! and inspection questions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Venturing for some thoughts...
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. RE: New Owner! and inspection questions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Lamp cross reference
From: ramilton <82delorean_at_dml_earthlink.net>

25. Delorean in shed N.Ireland (NEED HELP)
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 17:23:46 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Buzzer backwards?

That is interesting. Here are the wire connections for the buzzer from my
wiring diagram:

Purple/Blue - Drivers side door switch
Black/Purple - Seat Belt Switch
Yellow/Purple - Seat Belt Dash Light
White/Red - Ignition switch
Black - Ground
Purple - Headlight switch

Now that last one, purple to the headlight switch surprised me, it sounds
like the buzzer should buzz when the headlights are left on and the ignition
is off. Can someone verify that because mine doesn't.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 1:40 AM
Subject: [DML] Buzzer backwards?


> I have an interesting, somewhat backwards behavior coming from my door
> open switches:
> -It buzzes when the driver door is open, any time it is open.
> -Interior lights (when in door open position) alight only when
> passenger door opens, or when driver door is open and key is in ignition
> -Likewise, driver door lights only turn on when door is open and key
> is in ignition.  Passenger door behaves properly.
>
> My understanding is that the key in or out of the ignition should
> result in the opposite behaviors (buzz when key in, lights
> regardless).  I believe the previous owner played in the steering
> column.  Is there something I just need to plug in differently in
> there, or is it something else under the dash / footwell area?
>
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894
>




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 15:42:30 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Buzzer backwards?

Most likely the internal buzzer switch inside the ignition switch is hanging
up.

Try cleaning the ignition switch with a volatile spray cleaner, then
lubricate with dry graphite.

Scott Mueller
2981

-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 12:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Buzzer backwards?


I have an interesting, somewhat backwards behavior coming from my door open
switches: -It buzzes when the driver door is open, any time it is open.
-Interior lights (when in door open position) alight only when passenger
door opens, or when driver door is open and key is in ignition -Likewise,
driver door lights only turn on when door is open and key is in ignition.
Passenger door behaves properly.

My understanding is that the key in or out of the ignition should result in
the opposite behaviors (buzz when key in, lights regardless).  I believe the
previous owner played in the steering column.  Is there something I just
need to plug in differently in there, or is it something else under the dash
/ footwell area?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 17:30:51 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: reset lambda?

In the side of the white Lambda counter box there is a wheel with two little
holes in it. Insert a bent paperclip bent in a "U" shape into the two holes
and turn the counter till it reads zero.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 3:20 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: reset lambda?


>
> Alright, heres a question, how do you reset the lambda counter? I
> just replaced my O2 sensor.
>




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 17:37:59 -0400
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <Jeff_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: Artistic interpretation of a 2004 De Lorean.

Anybody else sketch at all? I haven't draw in a really long time, but
car designing is a fantasy of mine..
 
What does everyone think?
 
http://www.88-mph.com/images/2004D.jpg
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 18:31:45 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!

In a message dated 5/7/04 7:37:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


> Lets start with these...
> 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/invisibleaudio.htm
> 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/audio_kayo.html
> 
> http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/285556/2
> 
> Dave S

Not to mention http://members.cardomain.com/soma576

that's mine!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 08 May 2004 18:25:49 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Artistic interpretation of a 2004 De Lorean.

Yep...skecth/render/model...did a little of each.  I did this concept 
back in 1997 when I was an industrial design student at Ohio State:

http://www.geocities.com/delorean-12/99dmc-12.jpg

Lines could use some refinement...but the concept was there.

I even got the chance to show it to JZD at a fundraiser I attended for 
his nephew...that was so cool!

-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 3951
VIN 10236 (parts)
VIN 11289 (parts)


Jeff Chabotte wrote:

>Anybody else sketch at all? I haven't draw in a really long time, but
>car designing is a fantasy of mine..
> 
>What does everyone think?
> 
>http://www.88-mph.com/images/2004D.jpg
> 
>-Jeff Chabotte
>Norwich, CT
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 15:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)

All,

     I have finally found and repaired the last of the
leaks in my automatic transmission.  This project was
starting to get frustrating as it was done more than
once without a solution to the leaking.  I have spoken
to some of you for more than a year about this topic.

     I though I might bring up some of this for a
discussion.  I dont assume to be right on this but I
may have a point worth mentioning.

     The project was as follows APR of last year to
find and fix the external leaks on the transmission. 
At the time I had believed that it was limited to my
pan and nothing else. (actually computer plugs, pan
and dipstick pipe) I waited to do my tranny filter
replacment and pan gasket at the same time as shown in
this old howto:

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/transfilter.html

Notice in the following picture, the 13 metal rings
which were part of the original gasket

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/transrepair/dsc01963x260.jpg

I had asked several people about these rings, and why
they do not fit in the new gaskets, most said not to
worry about it, what i didnt know was that many
delorean transmissions that I would see down the road
have pan gaskets that are RTV'ed shut.

In all honesty I had believed that the rings were in
fact for the old gasket and no longer needed heres
what happened.

I assume the rings did two tasks:

   1.  The ring height set the distance from the pan
to the tranny, effectively regulating the ammount of
pressure would be applied to the gasket, as it would
only press down to the height of the ring.  Pushing
only from the notches around the perimeter of the pan
rim.  See picture again

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/transrepair/dsc01963x260.jpg

   2.  The rings would allow the pan to be tightened
down to the required 3-4 N/M, exerting pressure only
where the rings are, instead of the 3-4 NM on the
gasket itself


If you were to follow the instructions in the book and
use the gasket without the rings the following would
happen.


    1.  You would not be able to torque down the pan
gasket to the required 3-4NM without effectively
destroying the gasket.

    2.  If you were able to achieve 3-4NM, the pan 
would be on tight enough that the notches on the
perimeter would be pressed against the mateing surface
of the transmission, by continuing to tighten, the
areas around the bolts would be pulled up to the
transmission while the notches would hold the rest
back causing the pan to be perminantely higher around
the holes.



I assume the following.....


    1.  I was wrong for not modifying the new gasket
so the rings could be pressed into it.


    2.  The standard install works without the rings
and completely full of crap.


    3.  Following the instructions with a gasket
without the metal rings causes the tranny pan to leak
and or destroys the gasket and pan.


If the answer is 3 Id have to ask why the rings are
not sold with the gasket, and with a gasket where the
rings could be put in?

Your thoughts


Jordan
11613  Leakfree



 







	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 23:18:52 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Closing your doors from the outside

I usually stand on my head facing away from the car, then with my left foot 
I lower it and catch
the door trim and gently push it down untl it clicks, then I do a ninja like 
flip letting my elbow
knock the door into it's final locked position.

C'mon people.....
this thread has been going for weeks.
Are you honestly trying to tell me that there are this many Delorean owners
who do not know how to close the F-ing door?

I took a short yellow bus to school and I managed to figure it out.
(for the record I use the door trim, or the window trim)

- Videobob
VIN#5278


>From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Closing your doors from the outside
>Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 08:18:18 -0000
>
>Sticking my right arm in my shirt making me look like I am missing
>an arm, then closing it with my cloth covered hand. In a rush I use
>the side of my hand to push down on the rear stainless behind the
>window. Easier when wearing long sleeves cause then I just tuck my
>hand in the shirt to close.
>
>
>Joe 2524 & 16634
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 08 May 2004 23:41:37 -0000
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Buzzer backwards?

I don't have any kind of headlight buzzer

Mike Walsh
#17084


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> That is interesting. Here are the wire connections for the buzzer 
from my
> wiring diagram:
> 
> Purple/Blue - Drivers side door switch
> Black/Purple - Seat Belt Switch
> Yellow/Purple - Seat Belt Dash Light
> White/Red - Ignition switch
> Black - Ground
> Purple - Headlight switch
> 
> Now that last one, purple to the headlight switch surprised me, it 
sounds
> like the buzzer should buzz when the headlights are left on and the 
ignition
> is off. Can someone verify that because mine doesn't.
> 
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 1:40 AM
> Subject: [DML] Buzzer backwards?
> 
> 
> > I have an interesting, somewhat backwards behavior coming from my 
door
> > open switches:
> > -It buzzes when the driver door is open, any time it is open.
> > -Interior lights (when in door open position) alight only when
> > passenger door opens, or when driver door is open and key is in 
ignition
> > -Likewise, driver door lights only turn on when door is open and 
key
> > is in ignition.  Passenger door behaves properly.
> >
> > My understanding is that the key in or out of the ignition should
> > result in the opposite behaviors (buzz when key in, lights
> > regardless).  I believe the previous owner played in the steering
> > column.  Is there something I just need to plug in differently in
> > there, or is it something else under the dash / footwell area?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Greg
> > #2894
> >




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 08 May 2004 23:57:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)

You should be fine without any "rings" in the gasket as long as you
don't overtighten the pan bolts. Make sure none of the threads are
stripped in the housing. Did you fix the gearshift cable leak too? The
only way I know of is to do it like Rob Grady does, that is to  slip a
piece of heat-shrink tubing over it and melt it down. It seems the
cable is porous and allows oil to leak through. As it comes down it
looks like a pan gasket leak. You should also replace the "O" ring on
the vacuum modulater. If the seals start to leak again soon it could
mean your trans is nearing a melt-down because of an overload of fine
metal particles eating up the seals. Pull the dipstick and feel the
oil with your fingers. If it is dark and feels gritty flush it a
couple of times. You could also try a trans shop. Some have a machine
that will flush and filter the trans without taking it apart. The
reason you saw transmissions RTV'd without a gasket is that a P.O.
took the car to a shop for a trans service and the shop didn't have a
pan gasket and destroyed the old one when they dropped the pan.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> All,
> 
>      I have finally found and repaired the last of the
> leaks in my automatic transmission.  This project was
> starting to get frustrating as it was done more than
> once without a solution to the leaking.  I have spoken
> to some of you for more than a year about this topic.
> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 20:53:47 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

In a message dated 5/7/04 3:44:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


>  I guess that my big thing is that if I get
> the PRV with no shop willing/available to work on it,
> despite my having the DMC shop manual, then when it
> comes to the engine, I'm f---ed. 


But if you are ASE certified, you are a lot more knowledgable than the vast 
majority of DeLorean owners about cars in general, and 99% of us don't have any 
problems with the PRV as far as working on it ourselves.  this engine is so 
easy to work on that anyone with a shop manual and decent knowledge of which 
tools are for which jobs shouldn't have a problem.  you suggest that it will be 
cheaper to do an engine conversion than stick with the PRV.  that is only if 
you buy a D with a thrashed engine that has no hope of rebuild.  a nice shape 
PRV is inexpensive to maintain, on any financial scale.  you just have to comb 
through it the right way the first time. i think anyone that is handy with a 
toolset and wants to convert to a sub-90 hp 4 cylinder for the sole purpose of 
being able to get a shop to fix it 'just in case' before they even HAVE the 
car is jumping the gun.  not only is the engine a snap, but the DML is the 
greatest resource of all.  can anyone think of a problem an owner had that was 
totally unresolvable after consulting the DML and vendors?

just my $0.02

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 20:40:06 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: throttle cable tip

In a message dated 5/6/04 5:51:45 PM Central Daylight Time, hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> I would agree or as the instructions for the spool cover kit call 
> for - antifreeze.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 

Thanks for the tip guys.  actually most of the grease came off while trying 
to get the line threaded, but if i ever have problems with it again, next time 
i won't use any lubricant.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 02:13:21 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...

Dear DMC Troubleshooting Experts,

Recently I purchased a bunch of parts from the various vendors to do 
a BIG tune-up.  This involved replacing all of the vacuum hoses, new 
ported vacuum switch, cleaning the fuel injectors (ultrasonically), 
new injectors seals, installing the auto-coolant bleeder, pulling 
the intake manifold to clean up the 'valley', install new spark 
plugs, new heater pipe, new MSD Blaster2 ignition coil, new intake 
manifold o-rings, calibrating the throttle and idle speed switch, 
and general overall cleaning.  Whew!  So, all of the above has 
already been done.  

Let me take a step back for a moment, prior to this, my car was 
running very well, or so I thought.  Then I started to read the DML 
more, and started to find little things.  Namely, the three brass 
screws were all turned open, there was no tamper-plug or plug of any 
kind on my fuel distributor, and there was some sputtering 
when 'revving' the engine.  Many of the vacuum hoses were dry and 
cracked.  So, I installed all of the above parts, and closed all 
three brass screws.  This leads me to where I am today...

Now that all of these vacuum leaks are taken care of, (or atleast I 
think they are) my car starts, runs for about 10 seconds, and then 
when the RPMS begin to settle down it either idles VERY rough or 
stalls.  The exhaust is awfully foul smelling.  Now I won't lie to 
you, the gas in the tank is probably 6 months old, and 93 (yes, I 
know now that it's wrong and I should be using 87) octane.  But 
anyway, the last interesting tidbit is that, if I take some tape or 
whatever and put it in where the 'tamper-proof plug' should go, the 
car will behave the way I just mentioned above, however it will be 
accompanied by visible black smoke.  Removing the plug makes the 
black smoke go away.  

Now, I also have a new oxygen sensor waiting to be installed, but I 
wanted to wait until I got some fresh gas in the car first, in fear 
of ruining it.  Call me dumb, but could this be a case where I need 
to adjust the mixture screw?  

thanks,

Matt
#1604  




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 22:58:19 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Closing your doors from the outside

Ditto.  It seems just fine for there to be directions in the manuals, but
come on, I am pretty sure most of us figured it out the first time we
attempted it...otherwise you now have a dead battery and look silly driving
down the road with one door flaying away in the breeze lol.

Jack Stiefel
www.fmtimemachine.com
Direct listen link: www.live365.com/stations/radiocape
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Video Bob [mailto:videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 12:19 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Closing your doors from the outside

I usually stand on my head facing away from the car,



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 03:15:38 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: glove box bulb?

Does anyone know what type of bulb goes in the glove box light and
where to find it?




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 03:42:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...

Slow down and take a deep breath. You're going to be very glad you did
this tuneup. You just aren't finished yet.

Because of the various preceding vacuum leaks, your fuel mixture screw
is set way too rich. That was the only way to meter any fuel at all.
Every ounce of air, except for PCV, must pass over the air sensor
plate. You were sucking air everywhere else. A PO compensated by
dialing the fuel mixture WAY up. What little movement the air sensor
plate then gave the metering piston at least delivered enough fuel for
the engine to run.

Now that the leaks are closed -- EXCEPT FOR THE ACCESS HOLE FOR THE
FUEL MIXTURE SCREW! COVER THAT BAD BOY! -- the air sensor plate is
moving farther and the metering piston is delivering too much fuel.
You're downing your engine.

The proper way to set the fuel mixture screw, also known as the CO2
adjustment screw, is with an exhaust gas analyzer measuring CO2 in the
exhaust stream (there are two access ports in the exhaust crossover
pipe). In its absence you can monitor the condition of your spark
plugs and adjust it until they burn a caramel brown color. It the
plugs are clean and white, your mixture is too lean. If they're black
and sooty (dry), your mixture is too rich. Note that your plugs may
also be in other conditions (oily, melted, bent, etc) which indicate
other problems with the engine.

Your brass screws may be open to compensate for malfunctioning CIS. In
a properly functioning system they should indeed be closed. In a
system that does not move the idle speed motor correctly, they are one
of only two other means to idle the engine (cracking open the throttle
plates is the other). If you're going to idle with the screws, you
need to understand what each one does and how to set them. Contact me
off list (brobertson(at)carolina.net) and I'll walk you through them.
If it makes you feel any better, I have no vestiges of CIS on my car
anywhere. Even removed the ECU. Engine idles just fine on the manual
circuit.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
> Dear DMC Troubleshooting Experts,
> 
> Recently I purchased a bunch of parts from the various vendors to do 
> a BIG tune-up.  This involved replacing all of the vacuum hoses, new 
> ported vacuum switch, cleaning the fuel injectors (ultrasonically), 
> new injectors seals, installing the auto-coolant bleeder, pulling 
> the intake manifold to clean up the 'valley', install new spark 
> plugs, new heater pipe, new MSD Blaster2 ignition coil, new intake 
> manifold o-rings, calibrating the throttle and idle speed switch, 
> and general overall cleaning.  Whew!  So, all of the above has 
> already been done.  
> 
> Let me take a step back for a moment, prior to this, my car was 
> running very well, or so I thought.  Then I started to read the DML 
> more, and started to find little things.  Namely, the three brass 
> screws were all turned open, there was no tamper-plug or plug of any 
> kind on my fuel distributor, and there was some sputtering 
> when 'revving' the engine.  Many of the vacuum hoses were dry and 
> cracked.  So, I installed all of the above parts, and closed all 
> three brass screws.  This leads me to where I am today...
> 
> Now that all of these vacuum leaks are taken care of, (or atleast I 
> think they are) my car starts, runs for about 10 seconds, and then 
> when the RPMS begin to settle down it either idles VERY rough or 
> stalls.  The exhaust is awfully foul smelling.  Now I won't lie to 
> you, the gas in the tank is probably 6 months old, and 93 (yes, I 
> know now that it's wrong and I should be using 87) octane.  But 
> anyway, the last interesting tidbit is that, if I take some tape or 
> whatever and put it in where the 'tamper-proof plug' should go, the 
> car will behave the way I just mentioned above, however it will be 
> accompanied by visible black smoke.  Removing the plug makes the 
> black smoke go away.  
> 
> Now, I also have a new oxygen sensor waiting to be installed, but I 
> wanted to wait until I got some fresh gas in the car first, in fear 
> of ruining it.  Call me dumb, but could this be a case where I need 
> to adjust the mixture screw?  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 8 May 2004 23:48:10 EDT
From: AdamRayVaughn_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: New Owner! and inspection questions

Hey everyone!  I finally got my first Delorean on Friday!  It is still so 
hard to grasp that my dream car is actually sitting in my garage!  My car is from 
California, so one of the first things I have to do is get a PA inspection....

    First there are a few lights out in the back...(one reverse, one of the 
brake lights)  I was planning on replacing all of the lights on the back of the 
car just for the hell of it...now I don't mean to sound like an idiot here, 
but how easy is it to replace any of the lights in the back?  Also there are 
two lights out on the passenger door when it's open...the side and back lights, 
are they easy to replace?

    The only other thing the car needs is an AC charge...I'm guessing they 
can do that during the inspection....

        Any suggests for me would be great appreciated!

            Thank you,

                Adam
                VIN 3369


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 03:51:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New parts don't ALWAYS make your car run better...

If you did all this work correctly than you are very close. I would
agree that the mixture screw must be adjusted. You should have gotten
a plug to put in the hole over the mixture screw in all the parts you
ordered. It MUST be installed for the car to run right otherwise you
have a HUGE vacuum leak after the air sensor that someone misadjusted
the mixture screw to compensate for. The only "proper" way to adjust
the mixture screw is to use an exhaust gas analyzer. You can tweak it
close but to get the motor to really run right and have decent gas
mileage you do need the analyzer. You can also get it close with a
dwell meter on the Lambda system. You might also want to adjust the
valves when you replace the O2 sensor. Reset the Lmabda counter
afterwards. Check the timing and make sure the vacuum AND mechanical
advance are working properly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Dear DMC Troubleshooting Experts,
> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 04:37:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: New Owner! and inspection questions

To get to the bulbs just take the screws out of the tail light 
fixtures and remove them from the facia. The bulbs are on a circuit 
board. BUT - the bulbs are probably fine. See the following.....


http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tailights.htm

And get used to looking in the tech section of the dmcnews.com web - 
there's a tone of this "new car" info. 

The lights on the door simply pop out with a screwdriver. IF one is 
working the wiring is probably OK.

Dave S



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, AdamRayVaughn_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey everyone!  I finally got my first Delorean on Friday!  It is 
still so 
> hard to grasp that my dream car is actually sitting in my garage!  
My car is from 
> California, so one of the first things I have to do is get a PA 
inspection....
> 
>     First there are a few lights out in the back...(one reverse, 
one of the 
> brake lights)  I was planning on replacing all of the lights on the 
back of the 
> car just for the hell of it...now I don't mean to sound like an 
idiot here, 

>                 VIN 3369
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 01:21:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)

Im not sure how anything less than 3NM on the bolts
will keep them tight for any length of time. 

I have heard abou the shifter leak but have not seen
any indication that I have this problem.

I had cleaned every possible inch of the transmission
and Identified all places that were leaking, it leaks
no more.

currently , the only thing to be replaced are the two
coolant hoses in and out of it.  I will inspect the
gear shift cablew again though.

thanx

jordan 11613



--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> You should be fine without any "rings" in the gasket
> as long as you
> don't overtighten the pan bolts. Make sure none of
> the threads are
> stripped in the housing. Did you fix the gearshift
> cable leak too? The
> only way I know of is to do it like Rob Grady does,
> that is to  slip a
> piece of heat-shrink tubing over it and melt it
> down. It seems the
> cable is porous and allows oil to leak through. As
> it comes down it
> looks like a pan gasket leak. You should also
>



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 01:29:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Venturing for some thoughts...

Thanks.
   I am now saving for a car someone offered me with a
Chevy engine in it.  It is a big V8 too.  As for the
PRV, just living in Utah where there is a great lack
of sports cars/parts is the main reason why I am a bit
uncomfortable with it.  Unless I want to pay a freakin
arm and a leg to take it somewhere.  That's all.  My
two cents. :)

                   George DeLorean


	
		
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Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 03:18:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean automatic pan gasket discussion (long)

Dave,


One important thing I forgot to mention.  Even without
the rings, just hand tightening it and checking once
in a while that the pan remains tight. 

 Once someone attempts to torque the pan down to 3-4NM
without the rings, the lip of the pan becomes bent
around the screw holes, at that point I imagine the
pan would have to be replaced as it will no longer
correctly hold the gasket in place for a good seal.


jordan
11613












--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> You should be fine without any "rings" in the gasket
> as long as you
> don't overtighten the pan bolts. Make sure none of
> the threads are
> stripped in the housing. Did you fix the gearshift
> cable leak too? The
> only way I know of is to do it like Rob Grady does,
> that is to  slip a
> piece of heat-shrink tubing over it and melt it
> down. It seems the
> cable is porous and allows oil to leak through. As
> it comes down it
> looks like a pan gasket leak. You should also
> replace the "O" ring on
> the vacuum modulater. If the seals start to leak
> again soon it could
> mean your trans is nearing a melt-down because of an
> overload of fine
> metal particles eating up the seals. Pull the
> dipstick and feel the
> oil with your fingers. If it is dark and feels
> gritty flush it a
> couple of times. You could also try a trans shop.
> Some have a machine
> that will flush and filter the trans without taking
> it apart. The
> reason you saw transmissions RTV'd without a gasket
> is that a P.O.
> took the car to a shop for a trans service and the
> shop didn't have a
> pan gasket and destroyed the old one when they
> dropped the pan.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin
> <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > All,
> > 
> >      I have finally found and repaired the last of
> the
> > leaks in my automatic transmission.  This project
> was
> > starting to get frustrating as it was done more
> than
> > once without a solution to the leaking.  I have
> spoken
> > to some of you for more than a year about this
> topic.
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 07:29:40 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: New Owner! and inspection questions

Adam, Replacing the bulbs won't fix a bad contact or a bulb that won't
light. I repair the boards and even old bulbs come back to life.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AdamRayVaughn_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:AdamRayVaughn_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 9:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New Owner! and inspection questions


Hey everyone!  I finally got my first Delorean on Friday!  It is still so
hard to grasp that my dream car is actually sitting in my garage!  My car is
from
California, so one of the first things I have to do is get a PA
inspection....

    First there are a few lights out in the back...(one reverse, one of the
brake lights)  I was planning on replacing all of the lights on the back of
the



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 10:39:06 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: ramilton <82delorean_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Lamp cross reference

Does any one have a cross reference for all of the lamps to an American bulbs?  I would like to see this in a excel spread sheet just to carry it in the glove box.
Also does any one have what the pin function is for the relays .  I assume that the ground is one side of a coil.  but it could be on a normal or normally contact.  The Delorean schematic is not discriptive of what a relay looks like.  
Thanks  Boy will I have a lot of questions when I get to PF this June.
Richard Milton
vin10158
82delorean_at_dml_earthlink.net



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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 13:56:30 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean in shed N.Ireland (NEED HELP)

OK here goes 

For starters im new to this site and have been looking for some info 
on a Delorean I have found in a shed in Lisburn near Dunmurry In 
N.Ireland. 

Its a 81' I can tell that as much, as it has the groves in the 
bonnet/hood, and the petrol cap has a the metal flap cover on it. 

Now the strange bit..... The car has no vin. number, only a tag on 
the dash under the windscreen that says (PILOT 25)????? is this on 
all the cars or is this car in someway a early model? 

It is in amazing condition with only 1,600 miles on the clock!!! I 
have had it running and everything seems fine. The owner has no 
information on the car, he bought it from the auction in 83' and has 
only driven it a few times and has kept it in a cow shed for the 
last 10 years without letting it see daylight. He is looking 15,000 
for it, including spare parts. 

What I want to know is, is this good value? 
Is the car special in some way? 

ANY ADVISE WOULD HELP ME GREATLY!!!




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________________________________________________________________________


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