From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2008
Date: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:21 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. VIN 5898
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Rare DeLorean Poster???
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: engine cover hinges
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

9. Re: Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Delorean in shed N.Ireland (NEED HELP)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

11. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

13. Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

15. Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

17. Stainless Steel Engine Cover Hinges
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

19. 83 delorean for sale in canada
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Delorean in Sagautuck, Michigan
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

22. Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

23. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

24. Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>

25. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 02:05:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.

Your car may not be wired up right or the relay you got is
malfunctioning or maybe 1 of your fans isn't running. Since you bought
this relay from John I am sure he would be happy to help you
troubleshoot it. That's one of the services that venders provide when
you buy their products. I don't think the otterstadt has anything to
do with this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I realize this is a repeat question, but, please help.
> I have the fan fail module from John Hervey in my car.
> I also have a new otterstat.  
> Recently I have noticed that when my cooling fans kick on, the Fan 
> Fail light also turns on.  When I looked this up, the indication was 
> that my fans are not working properly if that light turns on.
> The light turns on when the fans turn on, and off when the fans turn 
> off.  What's the story?
> Thanks,
> 
> Dale Funk
> #4984




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 02:13:29 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN 5898

Hi, well this is to post to everyone who asked me what I'm doing 
with my car. Well I decided to go with converting it from an auto to 
a stick shift. It won't be on the road for a few months. At the 
moment its sitting in my garage. It still starts but only in N. So I 
go out and let it run for a little while every other day or so. 
Where I am at now is I have 75% of the cash for the parts, just not 
the labor money. And to save some money I'm going to see if I can 
pull out the autmatic set up with all the parts to go with it. This 
way its only a matter of fitting in the manual. So if anyone wants a 
used, not really well working automatic- I know it sounds really 
good :( let me know. At the moment it still allows the car to start 
in N, and moves, if you put it in P the car begins to go in reverse. 
All of the other gears seem to work, but  I haven't let the car move 
on its own for more then maybey 10 feet. I'm going to see if I can 
somehow begin to take it apart, I'm just letting the little fuel 
that is in there run out so if it has to sit longer then I want. 
If everything goes well and including work time I should have it 
back on the road again by hopefully October.

Darryl
VIN 5898




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 19:21:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Rare DeLorean Poster???

Someone recently offered me a poster. I have never
seen one like it before, and I wonder what it is
worth.

The asking price is kind of high to take a gamble, so
I hope someone here has some information on it.

It says "D E L O R E A N" at the top, then a headstone
shape with "1981-1981" on it with a DeLorean in front
of the stone. Below the photo reads "The Production
Years"

Does anyone have any information on this item?



	
		
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 02:40:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil

I was thoroughly unimpressed with my new bellhousing gasket. Is just a
piece of paper. Did not shed any tears when I had to remove the
bellhousing AGAIN and lost it. Made my own from sheet gasket material
which is not only thicker, but better seals irregularities in the
mating surfaces. Doesn't leak a drop.

Stock PRV gaskets don't hit on much. Valve cover gaskets are pieces of
paper. FelPro makes a much better xRef out of rubber faced metal. I
never could seal my U pipes totally vacuum tight with those paper
gaskets. Made my own from cardboard, and a figure 8 gasket to augment
the O rings, and now could dump a whole can of carb cleaner on them
with no effect.

BTW: I highly recommend changing gear oil while the bellhousing is
off. Makes short order out of what is rumored to be a torturous
procedure. I opted for ordinary 80W90 mineral oil.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I called Redline's engineering department and asked them. Since this 
> is a transmission AND an drive axle, it's a compromise. What's best 
> for the differential gears may not be best for syncros. At any rate, 
> the recommended oil is 75W90-NS. The MTL is probably not good enough 
> for the differential, and 75W90 (not NS) would be too "slippery" for 
> the syncros to operate properly. 
> 
> And yes, my formerly slightly leaky transmission is now more leaky 
> due to the thinner oil. 
> 
> Before this I was running Valvoline synthetic 85W90. Other than the 
> leaking, I can't say that I can tell a difference. They cost about 
> the same. 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 19:42:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine cover hinges

Rob was whowing off his "DeLorean Bling" at the spring
social, including SS hinges for the engine cover.

http://www.pjgrady.com/ has some stainless items
listed, but I dont see the hinges.  Give him a call.


--- Cecil Longwisch <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
> I remember sometime ago seeing someone who was
> selling stainless replacement hinges for the engine
> cover.
> Anyone know where these are available?
> 
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 02:57:00 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???

It is probably a picture of the prototype DeLorean. Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 02:58:27 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil

Wait until you open one all the way up.Due to tolerances, the two 
side cases use no gaskets at all. 

Be careful about changing gaskets too far from the original design. 
The reason they use a thin paper gasket it to hold dimensional 
tolerances. Not a huge deal on the bellhousing, but on the back cover 
for example you'd be asking for trouble because some shaft bearings 
would just not sit right. 

This issue does not apply to gaskets such as pan or valve cover 
gaskets because they are not holding critical dimensions. 

FYI I've never seen a delorean leak at the paper trans gaskets. The 
leak on the split seam if you don't use the right anaerobic sealer ( 
my problem). That's the problem with learning on my car - I've done 
several transmissions after mine and none of them leak. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I was thoroughly unimpressed with my new bellhousing gasket. Is 
just a
> piece of paper. Did not shed any tears when I had to remove the
> bellhousing AGAIN and lost it. Made my own from sheet gasket 
material
> which is not only thicker, but better seals irregularities in the
> mating surfaces. Doesn't leak a drop.
> 
> Stock PRV gaskets don't hit on much. Valve cover gaskets are pieces 
of
> paper. FelPro makes a much better xRef out of rubber faced metal. I
> never could seal my U pipes totally vacuum tight with those paper
> gaskets. Made my own from cardboard, and a figure 8 gasket to 
augment




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 23:17:27 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???

I've seen that poster in old issues of DeLorean World.  I was always 
confused by the "production years" of 1981-1981.  Never enough to 
contact the distributor though.  I can look for the ad if you'd like the 
information.

Let me know,
Josh


Marc Levy wrote:

>Someone recently offered me a poster. I have never
>seen one like it before, and I wonder what it is
>worth.
>
>The asking price is kind of high to take a gamble, so
>I hope someone here has some information on it.
>
>It says "D E L O R E A N" at the top, then a headstone
>shape with "1981-1981" on it with a DeLorean in front
>of the stone. Below the photo reads "The Production
>Years"
>
>Does anyone have any information on this item?
>
>
>
>	
>		
>__________________________________
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>Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 20:03:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rare DeLorean Poster???

No.  The shot of the car is from the side.  It has the
standard windows and rims, not the prototype style.


--- TalksToGod <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
> It is probably a picture of the prototype DeLorean.
> Dan Benedek #5003
> 
> 
>


	
		
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 03:26:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean in shed N.Ireland (NEED HELP)


If this car is in fact a pilot car,than yes, it is
pretty special!Finding a DeLorean with low miles in a
barn like you have is a bit of a dream of mine,like
Chris Parnham finding the car with 4 miles on the
clock!
I'm a bit hazy on what the pilot cars were used for or
how many there were but I believe they were used for
testing/training purposes before full scale production
started.There was an article about one in a past issue
of DeLorean Car Show magazine.
Not sure if the price is good value without seeing the
car but at least it runs and is original so 15000
might be about on the money.
Keep us posted.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney

> What I want to know is, is this good value? 
> Is the car special in some way? 
> 
> ANY ADVISE WOULD HELP ME GREATLY!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 00:17:08 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes


> Do deloreans have power brakes, or hydrulic brakes?

I'm not sure what you mean, but I'd say all of the above.  The DeLorean you
drove had some serious hydraulic issues.  Make sure you do your homework
before you ever think about buying one.  You'll thank yourself later!

Jake and 1063




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 03:31:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes

Paul,
The DeLorean does have hydraulically operated brakes.
What do you mean by power brakes?
They do have power assistance provided by a brake
booster adjacent to the brake fluid reservoir/master
cylinder.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney

--- Paul <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I just had a quick question.
> 
> I FINALLY drove a delorean for the first time last
> friday, and I 
> noticed that it didnt have power brakes.
> 
> Do deloreans have power brakes, or hydrulic brakes? 
> Any info on 
> this would be appreciated.
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Paul The Whip Guy
> MidWestWhips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 03:50:52 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)

Looking ahead to the eventual day when my rear wheel bearings will
need to be changed:

Are they pressed into the carrier? If so, has anyone ever changed with
a big ball joint press (or other device -- I've used a portable vise
to change wheel studs with the rotor in place) while the carrier is
still on the car rather than removing it?

The idea of old rusty and siezed support arm bolts leaves me cold.

Bill Robertson
#5939







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 08:14:33 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.

60kg ? one door or both together ?

I had them off, too and believe me, I won't lift 60kg myself !
They weigh probably around 25-30 kg. But still you need somebody 
who helps.

If everything is marked and measured correctly BEFORE taking the doors off,
they can be installed afterwards without any problems. The only thing I had
to set afterwards were the lock pins (?) a little bit.

Elvis

> Hi Wilhelm.
> 
> Yup, I think working on the car is fun too.  I know how you feel 
> about the rusty screws and the rusty edge on the roof support.  I'm 
> glad all my rusty fasteners are replaced, and that I repaired the 
> roof support.
> 
> To remove the roof support, the headliner on the inside of the car 
> needs to be removed, as well as the doors.  If you have a good 
> headliner, and don't want to replace it, that might be a factor in 
> deciding to remove the roof support.
> 
> If you decide to remove the roof support, I can offer the following 
> experience.  It takes a few days.
> The doors are heavy.  They weigh about 60kg.  It takes two people to 
> install them, but if you are strong, you can remove them alone, 
> though two people is better.
> 
> David Teitelbaum's warnings are all good ones.  I won't repeat them, 
> but I feel they should be followed.  I would add this warning:  If a 
> badly supported door fell closed, and your arm was in the way, I 
> think it would break.  If a finger was in the way in a bad place, I 
> think it would be cut off.  I made a conscious effort to keep my body 
> parts out of the way.
> 
> 
> To remove a door, assuming your t panel is off and the torsion bars 
> are removed:
> 
> Remove the brackets attached to the roof support (the wiring 
> harnesses for the doors go through them)
> Remove the cover of the hole in the roof support.
> Disconnect the connectors.
> With the door open, and supported safely, pull the unconnected door 
> wiring out of the roof support. 
> 
> Before unbolting the hinges, decide where you want to put the doors, 
> so you can move them immediately from the car to the storage 
> location, to minimize the risk of damage.
> 
> Unbolt the hinges, saving the easiest to remove nut on each hinge for 
> last. Figure out which nut is easiest as you go.  Before removing the 
> last nut on each hinge, lower the door as far as you can so it has 
> less far to fall if you lose control of it.  It's helpful to have a 
> helper hold the door at this stage.  If your helper is holding onto 
> the heavy part of the door while you remove the last hinge nuts, it 
> should go smoothly.  If you lose control of the door, remember it's 
> only a car door.  Don't do anything risky to catch it.  You can buy a 
> new one.  
> 
> The hinges may have spacers under them, which set the height of the 
> doors when installed.  Keep track of which ones were where.  They 
> have to go back there later.  Mine were rusty, and needed to be 
> cleaned.  
> 
> After the doors are removed and stored away, you can remove the roof 
> support.
> 
> Inside the car are six 10mm bolts that go through the fiberglass 
> underbody into the bottom of the roof support.  Remove them.  There 
> may be some pther small screws holding the roof support onto the 
> fiberglass underbody, if I remember correctly.  At this point, I 
> believe the only thing holding the roof support to the fiberglass 
> will be the any parts in the way, sealant, and the wiring.  It should 
> be clear how to remove it at this point.  
> 
> After I removed my roof support, I took it and the hinges to a 
> friend, who sandblasted them to get rid of all the rust.  Then I 
> carefully cleaned and repainted them to protect them.  I intend to 
> never drive my car in the rain, having seen what it can do.  I feel 
> very good about the job I did.  It's a shame no one ever gets to see 
> it because it's hidden.
> 
> 
> 
> Installation is the reverse of removal.  While I installed each piece 
> of the roof support, I put a lot of sealer underneath, between, 
> everywhere I thought it might help keep out water.  
> 
> When you install the doors, don't tighten all of the nuts just yet.  
> Leave them loose enough to move the door around to adjust the fit.  
> Are the spacers under the hinges back where they came from?
> 
> There is one subtle thing when installing and aligning the doors.  
> You may have noticed that the doors have a slightly different shape 
> with the torsion bars and struts removed.  That's because the doors 
> are so heavy, their weight bends the door a little bit when they are 
> held up by the torsion bars.  If you can't seem to get the doors 
> perfectly aligned without the torsion bars, this might be why.
> 
> Try to align the door as well as you can before installing the 
> torsion bars, but remember that you might have to have the torsion 
> bars installed to align the doors the last little bit.  I had to do 
> this.  Be careful not to smack the torsion bars with tools if you do.
> Aligning the doors took me several hours.
> 
> 
> About the dents in your torsion bars.  A very smart metallurgist 
> recommended to me that I sand down the the dents in my torsion bars.  
> The dents concentrate stress, and make it more likely the torsion bar 
> will break.  I sanded my torsion bars down just enough to remove my 
> dents, which were about .1mm deep.  I made sure to sand a wide area, 
> to spread the stress over a longer section of the torsion bar.  Then 
> I polished the whole surface with 1600 grit wet sand paper.  I 
> figured out that the surface stress on the torsion bars is 96000 psi, 
> which is a lot.  It's remarkable to me they even work, let alone work 
> over and over again.
> 
> 
> Have fun.
> 
> Rick Gendreau. 11472
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 

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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 14:00:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Transmission Gear Oil

If you are talking about the side of the final drive against the motor
there is no gasket. If you mean between the final drive and the
transmission you are messing with some critical dimensions. As Dave S
says you cannot just arbitrararly make changes here without adjusting
for them. As for the sealer I tried the Hylomar and was not pleased.
The case kept leaking so I had to pull and redoe with regular silicone
sealer. I have found that the machining of the surfaces and housings
is very good so unless you have warped or damaged something the paper
gaskets will seal well. I use silicone anyway, just to be sure, and it
helps to hold the gaskets flat and in place during assembly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Wait until you open one all the way up.Due to tolerances, the two 
> side cases use no gaskets at all. 
> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 12:12:50 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Power window trim... the fuzzy caterpillar

In a message dated 5/5/04 12:10:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com writes:


> 
> 
> Correct. The inside seal tore away. DMCH has lots in stock, although they
> are not listed on their site.
> 
> 

Right. With lousy glue.
-Wayne
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 08:12:55 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Stainless Steel Engine Cover Hinges

I believe I saw them at PJ Grady's last week.

Message: 22
Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 21:38:05 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: engine cover hinges

I remember sometime ago seeing someone who was selling stainless replacement 
hinges for the engine cover.
Anyone know where these are available?


Cecil Longwisch
#10663
Dave & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 15:21:37 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

Working in a pit should be just fine. If not better, since you've be 
able to get more leverage/comfort while working on your car. The only 
extra step you need to take is if you have an automatic transmission. 
And then you have to unbolt the trailing arms to get to the bolts (or 
at least the drivers side, from what I've read). A good point that 
was brought up was if the TABs are severly bent, you would need to 
cut them out. However, from what I've read on the list here, that 
isn't the norm, so that wouldn't be a high concern of mine.

Once you've got the nut off, tap the bolts with a rubber, or nylon 
mallot, and they should slide out pretty easily. Don't use a metal 
hammer, as you don't want to mushroom the bolts, and cause them to 
get stuck on the sleeves.

When torquing everything back up, it's important to have the weight 
of the suspension on the car, so you don't stress the bolts. David T 
reccomends to unbolt the TABS with the weight off of the suspension. 
Why, I honestly don't know, and it's the first time that I've ever 
heard this reccomendation before, so I'm a bit curious as to what 
advantage he's seen with it.

Otherwise, replacing your TABs while working in a mechanic's pit 
sounds just fine to me. As long as you've got enough space to work in.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 5/6/04 5:50:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dmcvegas_at_dml_c... 
> writes:
<SNIP>
> How about this twist?  I plan on doing my TA bolts in the pit where 
i work. 
> as in, the car drives in and there is a big opening under the car 
with a 
> catwalk underneath in the basement. 
> 
> what's my best bet - can i just drive the car in, pull the shields 
off, and 
> remove the bolts?  do they come out easier with the car on a lift 
and the 
> suspension hanging? i have a manual transmission too.  
> 
> please advise. i plan on doing this next weekend.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 04:32:04 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: 83 delorean for sale in canada

just saw it on hebdo.net 

http://hebdo.net/v5/result/affich.asp?rubno=4000&r=%271011%
27&ste=&sid=&issr=1&yfr=0&yto=0&kfr=0&kto=0&pfr=0&pto=0&dm=1&dp=4&mk=
DELOREAN&md=&kw=&or=1&oby=7&pg=1&vid=2628321

in case someone is interested !




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 12:13:11 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean in Sagautuck, Michigan

Hi,
I was at the beach (Oval Beach) yesterday evening watching a storm 
roll in and a Delorean pulled up...parked...and left right away.  I 
tried running over to meet up, but by the time I got close he/she had 
left.  It looked like the car was an early 81 with the dark wheels.  
If you are on the list please let me know.  I live in Holland, MI.

Erik
04512




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 20:13:17 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question

Please help -
I connected the battery to the car again after storage.
The "Cooling Fan Fail" lit up instantly without the key in the ignition!
I have the FanZilla installed, everything looks fine there - both fuses are ok, but when I pull the plug from the relay socket the Cooling Fan Fail light goes out.
I have never experienced this before. Why does the Cooling Fan Fail light come on immediately the battery is connected? The light won't go out!

Please tell me that the solution for this is a simple one ;-)

Cheers,
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 18:13:03 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)

Bill - Looking at your observations from a different perspective ... 
leaving rusty, corroded, seized primary structural fasteners in place 
leaves me even colder.  The lower bolts that attach the lateral link 
and the rear shock absorber to the hub carrier are in bending all of 
the time due to the weight of the rear of the car resting on the 
cantilevered end of the bolt sticking out of the hub carrier.  With 
constant bending stresses, corrosion that can lead to pitting will 
eventually lead to cracks.  If the bolt end cracks through 
completely, there is nothing to hold up the end of the car.  That 
visual doesn't excite me at all.  I know that replacing these bolts 
can be a challenge (right, Rich?), but having good bolts in there is 
quite important.  Just my $.02 on this issue.

BTW - Yes, the bearings are pressed in to the hub carrier.  I don't 
think they can be replaced without removing the hub carrier from the 
car and taking it to a press.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Looking ahead to the eventual day when my rear wheel bearings will
> need to be changed:
> 
> Are they pressed into the carrier? If so, has anyone ever changed 
with a big ball joint press (or other device -- I've used a portable 
vise to change wheel studs with the rotor in place) while the carrier 
is still on the car rather than removing it?
> The idea of old rusty and siezed support arm bolts leaves me cold.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 14:40:48 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes

Some of us had an "discussion" about this months ago.  

The Delorean does NOT have hydroboost, where hydraulic fluid (usually
from the power steering system) is used to aid your foot for brake
pressure.  

It only has "vacuum assist", where a half air/half vacuum situation
inside a reservoir eases required brake pedal pressure.  If the vacuum
assist reservoir is broken or disconnected, you'd certainly know it,
because the brake pedal would be amazing hard to press.  

The brake system is hydraulic and vacuum assisted just like 99% of the
cars on the road today.

Jim
1537


On Sun, 09 May 2004 19:11:19 -0000 "Paul" <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com> writes:
> Hi all,
> 
> I just had a quick question.
> 
> I FINALLY drove a delorean for the first time last friday, and I 
> noticed that it didnt have power brakes.
> 
> Do deloreans have power brakes, or hydrulic brakes?  Any info on 
> this would be appreciated.
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Paul The Whip Guy
> MidWestWhips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 19:12:22 -0000
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>
Subject: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.

Hi,

Wow, thank you Rick for all the information, it is really appreciated.

I am considering taking my roof support to one of the mechanics at
work, and ask him if he can make me a new one in stainless steel, or
is this a bad idea? is stainless to brittle? if not, which grade might 
be the best for this task? 304 302 316? anyone who knows?

One more question, hopefully the last one for a while :)  how do you 
store a door that has been removed? Do you build a special jig of some 
sort, or just a pile of mattresses? 

Thanks a lot.

Regards,
Wilhelm.
#10816
 





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 21:54:04 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes

On Sun, 09 May 2004 19:11:19 -0000, Paul The Whip Guy wrote:

> I just had a quick question.
> 
> I FINALLY drove a delorean for the first time last friday,
> and I noticed that it didnt have power brakes.
> 
> Do deloreans have power brakes, or hydrulic brakes?
> Any info on this would be appreciated.

With a little research you'd have know that a DeLorean
has Vacuum Assisted Hydraulic Disc Brakes all around.
Vacuum Assist counts as Power Brakes in my book.

There are many factors that have negative influence on the
performance on the brakes like the condition of the pads,
rotors, fluid and whether the brakes have been properly bled.

On a properly maitained DeLorean you can make a 4 wheel skid
if you want to, I know from experience...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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