From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2010
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 8:52 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. Re: Delorean Brakes
From: "Paul" <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. Re: Automatic Transmission Governor Upgrades...
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

6. Re: Automatic Transmission Governor Upgrades...
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

7. EFI Vin 6147 is for sale
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

8. Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

9. Show me the ropes in Pigeon Forge?
From: "clarkbradshaw" <clarkbradshaw_at_dml_netscape.net>

10. Early 82 For Sale In AZ
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Show me the ropes in Pigeon Forge?
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

15. 83 FOR SALE CONT.
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Re: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

17. Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

18. voltage on oxygen sensor
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>

19. Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

20. Attention BTTF fans: STUFF YOU MIGHT WANT?
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

22. DMC FACTORY SAD NEWS!!
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. DeLorean Car Show Clarifications and update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

25. Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 22:36:33 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes

Heh...I know this as well.  I learned to drive a manual transmission 
on my friend's Dodge Neon.  Then a few weeks later, my DeLorean 
arrived and it was time to apply my newly learned abilities.  One of 
the first, and potentially worst, mistakes I ever made, was assuming 
the shifter was in neutral after starting the car.  The sequence 
went something like this:

1.  Depress clutch
2.  Start car
3.  Release clutch
4.  "OH SHIT!" as my car lunges toward the wall in my garage.
5.  *SCREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEECH*  as I slam on the brakes and prevent 
myself from destroying the front end just a few days after getting 
it.  No one was hurt, and yes, now there is 4 6-inch skid marks in 
my garage along with a funny story to go with it.  I will never make 
that mistake again!

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

> On a properly maitained DeLorean you can make a 4 wheel skid
> if you want to, I know from experience...
> 
> JAN van de Wouw
> 
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> 
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> --------------------------------




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 00:07:11 -0000
From: "Paul" <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Brakes

Jake,

I've been researching for a long while now, and I still know very 
little, the proof to that is in my post.  It's hard, for me anyway, 
to really digest and understand everything I read and see on the 
internet with out being able to physically see it and learn it on a 
real D.  I'm definitely still learning.

Thank you

Andrew,

Hydraulic brakes, and power assistance, that is what I was meaning by 
power brakes, thanks for straightening me out.  

Between your and Jakes reply, the helpful emails I've gotten, and 
everyone else, the concensus is that the D. I was looking at would 
need a complete overhaul on the brakes.

Thanks to the people I've talked to and thanks to this list I now 
know that much more about my dream car as I get exponentially closer 
to owning it.

Thanks to everyone,

Regards,

Paul the Whip Guy
MidWestWhips

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Paul,
> The DeLorean does have hydraulically operated brakes.
> What do you mean by power brakes?
> They do have power assistance provided by a brake
> booster adjacent to the brake fluid reservoir/master
> cylinder.
> 
> Andrew
> VIN 2883
> Sydney




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 17:59:47 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question

Is your A/C switch turned on?

Mark V


On Monday, May 10, 2004, at 01:13  PM, Stian Birkeland wrote:

> Please help -
> I connected the battery to the car again after storage.
> The "Cooling Fan Fail" lit up instantly without the key in the 
> ignition!
> I have the FanZilla installed, everything looks fine there - both 
> fuses are ok, but when I pull the plug from the relay socket the 
> Cooling Fan Fail light goes out.
> I have never experienced this before. Why does the Cooling Fan Fail 
> light come on immediately the battery is connected? The light won't go 
> out!
>
> Please tell me that the solution for this is a simple one ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 18:01:12 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.

This is how John Hervey's works, trust me.

Mark V


On Monday, May 10, 2004, at 02:49  PM, Jan van de Wouw wrote:

> On Sun, 09 May 2004 22:45:23 -0000, Dale Funk wrote:
>
>> I have the fan fail module from John Hervey in my car.
>> Recently I have noticed that when my cooling fans kick on,
>> the Fan Fail light also turns on.  When I looked this up,
>> the indication was that my fans are not working properly
>> if that light turns on.
>
> Where dit you look that up? In the cars' manual
> or the manual that came with Johns setup?
>
> ORIGINALLY the FanFail light was designed to come on when
> one of the fans would draw more power than the other.
> I believe that with John's SetUp it's wired to light
> when the fans (should) run.
>
> With FanZilla (from another vendor) the FanFail will light
> as it was designed to do... On my car I've got a FanZilla
> thet will light the Fan Fail upon failure and I built a
> small monitor for the fans and signals from the Fuel Pump,
> Otterstat and A/C (and Alarm-LED)...
> <http://members.home.nl/delorean/monitor/Cooling.JPG>
>
> But I agree with what was mentioned earlier:
> contact John Hervey for more detailed info.
>
> JAN van de Wouw
>
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
>
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> --------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 19:44:38 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic Transmission Governor Upgrades...


On May 10, 2004, at 5:20 PM, gzapf wrote:

> I've seen a few photos of LEDs mounted in the clock area or in dummy
> buttons to indicate shifts... does anyone have details on this or
> other mods?

A few years ago, I wrote up a brief description of how to set up LED  
shift indicators. You can find it here:

http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/2001%20files/ 
[DML]%20Digest%20Number%20426.html#12.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:58:20 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic Transmission Governor Upgrades...

Greg and all the other automatic Delorean owners,

Well, after a lot of work and a lot of help from other DMLer's,
the answer to "Has anyone replaced the CG with something new?"
is a resounding YES.  Although still in the initial development
stages (first spin of the new boards), there will be an updated
technology replacement for the 25 year old OEM CG available in
the next few months. (I may have a prototype at the PF show).

This project has been a DML team effort of sorts, since a lot
of folks have done "parts" of this project over the years and
my local team of mechanics and engineers have put all the parts
together (and made sense of it all) and initial testing of the
new product should begin before the end of this month.  So if
you have had it with your old CG, a new one is on the horizon.

As with most of my other projects, I rather not say anything in
advance until I have something solid, ready to back up the talk.
With all the recent CG talk, it has been hard to wait to say
anything, but with the boards a few weeks away and a specific
question asked (anything new available?), it seemed like the
right time to make the preliminary announcement.

Yes, there are new CG's in the Delorean's future.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Besides the repairs of replacing capacitors, and adding some caps 
for
> stability to the boards, has anyone done any other upgrades to 
their
> automatic transmission governors?
> 
> snip <
>
> Has anyone replaced the computer entirely with something new?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 20:06:54 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: EFI Vin 6147 is for sale

Thought I would offer this to the list first before I put it in AutoTrader.
6147 is an SDS EFI conversion with custom dual throttle body intake and 26k miles. It's about 15 hp over stock, is hall sensor triggered, and runs O2 sensor closed loop.

There are no irreversible mods and all parts required to put it back to stock are included. Everything that routinely needs to be done to a car that sat for 15 yrs has been done. I proved the 20K rule is way way low....

I'll have some recent pictures along with some that Dave Stragand took at last years Western Pa. tech session available on the web soon. It's a drive anywhere car with lots of extras. Drop me a line if you have any interest. Asking 18K or B/O. I'm at jwit6 at cs.com.

Thanks,
Jim 6147




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 00:19:06 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

List - I thought that I'd touch on the questions - why have weight on 
the rear suspension when torqueing up the TAB's, and why have the 
joint unloaded to remove them?  In terms of removing them, when there 
is weight on the suspension, the joint (TAB, rubber bushing, and 
trailing arm) have loads on them from the camber of the rear wheels, 
and loads created by the alignment of the wheels and basic geometry 
of the rear suspension.  In order to manipulate the joint to remove 
the preloads, and allow the bolt to gracefully exit the joint, the 
car should be jacked up with the wheel off the ground (you can do one 
side at at time).  If the joint is preloaded, the bolt will be harder 
to drive out, and things can suddenly shift around when the bolt 
finally comes free.  It's best to have everything relaxed for easier 
removal.  For installation, the joint goes back together best with 
the wheel off the ground (for the same reasons as removing the TAB), 
but here's the reason for setting the car back down for the final 
torque.  The trailing arm joint is supposed to be a clamped joint.  
In other words, there should be no relative motion of the bolt, 
trailing arm, and sleeve through the bushing.  All motion is supposed 
to be in the rubber of the bushing only.  Realistically, the sleeve 
that is bonded into the bushing can tear loose fairly quickly, so the 
sleeve starts to rotate in the rubber.  However, if the rubber 
bushing is still intact (sleeve to rubber still bonded), you want to 
install everything so that the bushing is in a relaxed state with the 
car in its normal stance.  Then, the rubber has equal available 
deflection in both directions.  If the car is in the air when the 
bolts are torqued up, the rubber is twisted all the way in one 
direction to start with, which will cause premature failure of the 
rubber to sleeve bond.  If this is not clear, or you have any 
questions that arise from this, feel free to ask off-list.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> When torquing everything back up, it's important to have the weight 
of the suspension on the car, so you don't stress the bolts. David T 
reccomends to unbolt the TABS with the weight off of the suspension. 
Why, I honestly don't know, and it's the first time that I've ever 
heard this reccomendation before, so I'm a bit curious as to what 
advantage he's seen with it.





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:55:31 -0000
From: "clarkbradshaw" <clarkbradshaw_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: Show me the ropes in Pigeon Forge?

I'm going to be at the D show in Pigeon Forge and I was hoping one 
(or several) of you would be willing to lend me some of your time to 
get aquainted with the Delorean.

I have been to a few other events including the Cleveland D show and 
I've wanted to buy one since I was in high school. It's finally 
becoming financially feasable for me to buy one in the next few years 
so I thought I'd better get a few tutorials on what to look for when 
I'm ready. --I'm 31 and my wife has promised me one by my 35th b-day 
so I still have some time to look around and save up some more.

Thanks!
Clark Bradshaw




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:46:53 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Early 82 For Sale In AZ

Hey Guys,

Due to unfortunate luck. I am forced to sell my Delorean. It's an 
early 82 Delorean with 56.6k orig miles on it. I originally bought 
it in California and it was serviced and maintained by the dmc 
center in garden grove, "call to verify". This is VIN#10440, and was 
originally owned by Adam .. something. It has recently passed 
emissions and has current tags. The car runs great, I use it as a 
daily driver. It has a small coolant leak, and I *know* where it is, 
but havent tightened the fastner of where its comming from. Matthew 
Olans has personally seen this car, as well as Ryan who came and 
fixed my car when I had accidentally disconnected some wiring. Only 
thing that I can think of that it might need is a spark plug change. 
But like I said, I drive it everyday, I love this car, but I need to 
part with it because I need money. The panels are in excellent 
shape, but the interior is alittle tore up. Whats important here 
though is the car runs great! =)

Lemme know if you interested, I really would like to honesty get 
about $13,000.00 OBO. I can email pictures, or you can just come by, 
I live in Chandler, ARIZONA. Email me at monkey (at) armenia.com.

Thanks,

Sean




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 20:17:16 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!

Here's a (bad) pic of my head/eq unit installed:

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//cva1003.jpg



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 18:15:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Show me the ropes in Pigeon Forge?

I would be more than willing to give you a look
around/drive around in the DeLorean.  I haven't even
had mione a year yet, but with 5 digit repair bills
behind me already, I've learned quite a bit -
especially what to look for in regards to failing
pieces,malfunctions, or need-to-be-replaced parts. 
There are probably some ppl here that know hoards more
of information than me, but I'd love to donate my time
and knowledge for a possible new owner!

Jeremiah


--- clarkbradshaw <clarkbradshaw_at_dml_netscape.net> wrote:
> I'm going to be at the D show in Pigeon Forge and I
> was hoping one 
> (or several) of you would be willing to lend me some
> of your time to 
> get aquainted with the Delorean.
> 
> I have been to a few other events including the
> Cleveland D show and 
> I've wanted to buy one since I was in high school.
> It's finally 
> becoming financially feasable for me to buy one in
> the next few years 
> so I thought I'd better get a few tutorials on what
> to look for when 
> I'm ready. --I'm 31 and my wife has promised me one
> by my 35th b-day 
> so I still have some time to look around and save up
> some more.
> 
> Thanks!
> Clark Bradshaw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 22:03:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Question(s)

It is Rich's odyssey (ongoing...) that has me wondering about an
on-car alternative. Are the bearings pressed in tighter than a ball joint?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Bill - Looking at your observations from a different perspective ... 
> leaving rusty, corroded, seized primary structural fasteners in place 
> leaves me even colder.  The lower bolts that attach the lateral link 
> and the rear shock absorber to the hub carrier are in bending all of 
> the time due to the weight of the rear of the car resting on the 
> cantilevered end of the bolt sticking out of the hub carrier.  With 
> constant bending stresses, corrosion that can lead to pitting will 
> eventually lead to cracks.  If the bolt end cracks through 
> completely, there is nothing to hold up the end of the car.  That 
> visual doesn't excite me at all.  I know that replacing these bolts 
> can be a challenge (right, Rich?), but having good bolts in there is 
> quite important.  Just my $.02 on this issue.
> 
> BTW - Yes, the bearings are pressed in to the hub carrier.  I don't 
> think they can be replaced without removing the hub carrier from the 
> car and taking it to a press.
> 
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 06:28:02 -0000
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question

No, the A/C switch was off.
I connected the battery, and the Cooling Fan Fail light lit up 
immediately without the key in the ignition...

I have changed the A/C bulbs to LEDs - could this be of importance?

Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Is your A/C switch turned on?
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> On Monday, May 10, 2004, at 01:13  PM, Stian Birkeland wrote:
> 
> > Please help -
> > I connected the battery to the car again after storage.
> > The "Cooling Fan Fail" lit up instantly without the key in the 
> > ignition!
> > I have the FanZilla installed, everything looks fine there - both 
> > fuses are ok, but when I pull the plug from the relay socket the 
> > Cooling Fan Fail light goes out.
> > I have never experienced this before. Why does the Cooling Fan 
Fail 
> > light come on immediately the battery is connected? The light 
won't go 
> > out!
> >
> > Please tell me that the solution for this is a simple one ;-)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stian Birkeland
> > Norway
> >
> > VIN # 06759
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
> http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
> http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
> http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 02:33:43 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: 83 FOR SALE CONT.

Forgot to mention...
some pics are available at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/az-d/lst






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 09:30:12 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.


Stainless Steel is a good idea. I've had mine rebuilt, too.
But don't forget to have it powder coated afterwards as it 
will touch the other two sheet metal parts (contact corrosion !) 
that are glued on and can't be take off...normally.

Didn't this all start because of your T-Bar and the rear sheet
metal part ? the roof support is made of three different pieces
and only the large middle section can be taken off. Even if your 
rear part isn't glued on anymore - this will be very hard
to make without the original tools. The middle section can be 
done, but does it make a sense ? is it rusty ? inside ?

Before you start all that work I suggest to look at some pictures 
first, maybe you don't really need to take it apart completely. 
Let me know, I may have some pics.

By the way - mattresses are good.

Elvis


> Hi,
> 
> Wow, thank you Rick for all the information, it is really appreciated.
> 
> I am considering taking my roof support to one of the mechanics at
> work, and ask him if he can make me a new one in stainless steel, or
> is this a bad idea? is stainless to brittle? if not, which grade might 
> be the best for this task? 304 302 316? anyone who knows?
> 
> One more question, hopefully the last one for a while :)  how do you 
> store a door that has been removed? Do you build a special jig of some 
> sort, or just a pile of mattresses? 
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Regards,
> Wilhelm.
> #10816

-- 
NEU : GMX Internet.FreeDSL
Ab sofort DSL-Tarif ohne Grundgebühr: http://www.gmx.net/dsl




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 06:30:30 -0000
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Re: FanZilla ... Cooling Fan Fail Question

The fans didn't come on. But they work, since when I started the car 
and turned on the A/C, the fans started at once.
But - I have installed LEDs in the A/C Panel lights, could this be of 
any significance??

Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> On Mon, 10 May 2004 20:13:17 +0200, Stian Birkeland wrote:
> 
> > I connected the battery to the car again after storage.
> > The "Cooling Fan Fail" lit up instantly without the key in the 
ignition!
> 
> Did the fans come on? What happens if you remove the fuses?
> 
> > I have the FanZilla installed, everything looks fine there -
> > both fuses are ok, but when I pull the plug from the relay
> > socket the Cooling Fan Fail light goes out.
> 
> I'm guessing the otterstat is sticking closed and there's no
> power to or from the Circuitbreaker that feeds the fans.
> 
> But it would be best to contact Bob Zilla; it's his product,
> he would know best what could be happening...
> 
> JAN van de Wouw
> 
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> 
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> --------------------------------




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 03:33:13 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: voltage on oxygen sensor

My car seems to run smooth at about 1400 rpm.  I found that I had a 
bad ground on my ECU for the lamba system.  This solved my problem 
with my car running rich, but now runs at 1400 rpm.  (Not to mention 
the fact that she stalls until she warms up.)  When the oxygen sensor 
kicks in, it reads around 1.8-2.1 on the voltage meter.  Is this 
correct?  My book shows that it should be reading around .5 volts 
when idle.  Any suggestions?

~Dan




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 09:05:26 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Fail questions, thanks.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I realize this is a repeat question, but, please help.
> I have the fan fail module from John Hervey in my car.
> I also have a new otterstat.  
> Recently I have noticed that when my cooling fans kick on, the Fan 
> Fail light also turns on.  When I looked this up, the indication
was 
> that my fans are not working properly if that light turns on.
> The light turns on when the fans turn on, and off when the fans
turn 
> off.  What's the story?
> Thanks,
> 
> Dale Funk
> #4984

That's the way John's setup is supposed to work.  It's explained on
his web page.  Here is the link:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/modifications.html




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 07:58:19 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Attention BTTF fans: STUFF YOU MIGHT WANT?

I have decided to start getting rid of some of the extra BTTF stuff I
have laying around because my collection is getting to be so massive
that I have no place to put it all.
I plan to bring a bunch of it with me to PF and offer it to those
who want it for a good deal....
But for now I have put a few items on eBay.
So if any of you are looking for BTTF stuff, I am selling a few
of my "OUTATIME" plates from my personal collection.
These are the ones with the RAISED letters.

I have seen several Time Machines that have the "Universal Studios"
plate attached, (the one they sold in the gift shop).
This plate would look much better on your ride for those car shows!


Check them out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3815204884

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=60361&item=3815202966

Thanks,
and sorry for hocking stuff on the DML, but I thought some of you
out there who are building a time machine would want it.
- Videobob







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 10:55:24 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

Hey List

On this subject of trailing arm bolts- I may have missed the answer to this
question so I'm gonna ask it again.

I have an automatic transmission and I'm getting ready to replace my
trailing arm bolts. I seem to remember someone saying that it was a pain to
replace the bolts in an automatic because the fatter transmission has to be
moved out of the way. Is that true? Do I need to dismount the transmission
to replace the bolts?

Thanks!

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?


> List - I thought that I'd touch on the questions - why have weight on
> the rear suspension when torqueing up the TAB's, and why have the
> joint unloaded to remove them?  In terms of removing them, when there
> is weight on the suspension, the joint (TAB, rubber bushing, and
> trailing arm) have loads on them from the camber of the rear wheels,
> and loads created by the alignment of the wheels and basic geometry
> of the rear suspension.  In order to manipulate the joint to remove
> the preloads, and allow the bolt to gracefully exit the joint, the
> car should be jacked up with the wheel off the ground (you can do one
> side at at time).  If the joint is preloaded, the bolt will be harder
> to drive out, and things can suddenly shift around when the bolt
> finally comes free.  It's best to have everything relaxed for easier
> removal.  For installation, the joint goes back together best with
> the wheel off the ground (for the same reasons as removing the TAB),
> but here's the reason for setting the car back down for the final
> torque.  The trailing arm joint is supposed to be a clamped joint.
> In other words, there should be no relative motion of the bolt,
> trailing arm, and sleeve through the bushing.  All motion is supposed
> to be in the rubber of the bushing only.  Realistically, the sleeve
> that is bonded into the bushing can tear loose fairly quickly, so the
> sleeve starts to rotate in the rubber.  However, if the rubber
> bushing is still intact (sleeve to rubber still bonded), you want to
> install everything so that the bushing is in a relaxed state with the
> car in its normal stance.  Then, the rubber has equal available
> deflection in both directions.  If the car is in the air when the
> bolts are torqued up, the rubber is twisted all the way in one
> direction to start with, which will cause premature failure of the
> rubber to sleeve bond.  If this is not clear, or you have any
> questions that arise from this, feel free to ask off-list.
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...>
> wrote:
> > When torquing everything back up, it's important to have the weight
> of the suspension on the car, so you don't stress the bolts. David T
> reccomends to unbolt the TABS with the weight off of the suspension.
> Why, I honestly don't know, and it's the first time that I've ever
> heard this reccomendation before, so I'm a bit curious as to what
> advantage he's seen with it.
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 15:45:52 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC FACTORY SAD NEWS!!

Hi all, sorry new news on the pilot25 deloren yet. Hope to have some 
tomorrow. 

Well on to the subject in hand. 

I am doing some construction work on the former DMC factory site, 
which is now seperated into several different business complex's. I 
noticed the earth movers over by the former emmisions shed and test 
track, so i thought I would have a look. 

The whole emmisions building is gone!!! demolished yesterday with 
the test track to go in the next week or so!! 

I also noticed the old entrance security hut was also marked for 
demolision so I ran over to it and managed to get the last two 
remaining letters off the delorean entrance sign. 

So I now have the metal D and the M from the sign, all the other 
letters seem to have been ripped off at some stage. All in all, its 
a sad day for me as I have walked past the factory every day for the 
last 5 years. 

damn shame.... 

will upload the pictures I took today If someone can tell me how to 
do it.




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 11:03:45 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Clarifications and update

I have been getting a lot of questions on the Sunstar models.
Yes they are in the judging catagories so if you have one that you want to 
bring then be sure to enter it 

There is no cost to enter this competition

We have the daily driver classifications from 0 to over 100k 
There are the modified classes for paint and engine (basically all of the 
catogories from last time.

We are starting a custom catagory where you can enter as many catagories as 
you want and they do not affect the prizes in the general catagories
Best shifter 
Best Stereo
Best light effects 
best wheels 

and any other catagory we feel might be fun 
these will be $5.00 to enter and you do that at the door.

We also have the standby awards like 
Oldest owner
Youngest owner
newest owner
Farthest traveled with car 
Farthest traveled without car

along with the rest that we had last year.

Anyway hope that clarifies things


OK
Hotel rooms 
I have to start giving back rooms 
If you don't have one please get it soon.

The raffle car is over the minimum so we will be raffling the car

We did make a mistake on the web and had the raffle car listed as sale 
pending 
This was an error 
There is no sale pending on the raffle car it will be given away at the show 
Sorry for the oops.

The events registration is still going strong but please register 
There are still a large number of you with hotel rooms that have not event 
registered

Well See you in Pigeon Forge

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 17:03:51 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

Eric - Yes, the left hand TAB is a little more difficult to remove 
and replace on the automatic than it would be on a manual.  My 
recommendation would be to separate the elements of the joint apart 
(after removing the nut from the bolt) and then cut the bolt out.  
Make the cut as close as possible to the "head end", so that you can 
get that length out without running into the transmission housing.  
Then, loosen the rubber bushing retainer (the two bolts probably have 
jam nuts on them, as well as the welded nuts in the frame).  This 
allows you to insert the new TAB at an angle through the various 
pieces of the joint until you clear the transmission.  Then, you 
straighten everything out, re-attach the bushing retainer, install 
the trailing arm, shims, etc.  It is not technically required to 
dismount or move the transmission if you use this technique.  Another 
way to do this installation involves removing the trailing arm from 
the left side of the car.  This technique was written up by Dave 
Jacobs in one of the issues of Gullwing Magazine, complete with color 
pictures.  If you don't subscribe to that magazine already, you 
should definitely consider it.  If you have any further questions, 
feel free to contact me. 

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I have an automatic transmission and I'm getting ready to replace my
> trailing arm bolts. I seem to remember someone saying that it was a 
pain to replace the bolts in an automatic because the fatter 
transmission has to be moved out of the way. Is that true? Do I need 
to dismount the transmission to replace the bolts?





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 01:12:37 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

Does it matter if the Bolts are torqued with the back wheels on ramps 
rather than over a pit? Does it make a difference wether the car is 
level or at a downward angle?



> Back the car onto the ramps, and chock the front wheels. Your next 
> step is to remove the sheilds that protect the Trailing Arms, and 
the 
> Drive Axles. From here, count the shims, and remove the bolts. Then 
> just install everything in reverse. Using fresh hardware, of course.
> 
> The only problem that I ran into when replacing my TABs was 
alignment 
> with the passenger side Trailing Arm. I had to wedge the TA up, and 
> pull it forward to get the holes to align. Driver's side went off 
> without a hitch. That was the biggest thing I ran into. So on a 
scale 
> of 1-5, I'd rate replacing your TABs _at_dml_ a 2.
> 
> Now as I said before, this method will work on *most* DeLoreans. If 
> your car is lowered in the front, the pitch may force the spoiler 
to 
> scrape the ground, depending upon how low you decided to go. And if 
> you've got an Automatic Transmission, there is an extra step that 
> you'll need to go thru, in order to get to these bolts.
> 
> Hope this helps ya!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 





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