From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2012
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 9:58 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Door inner seals
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Door inner seals
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Door inner seals
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Door inner seals
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

5. Re: Door inner seals
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

6. Still no start
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Engine swaps + street legal = ?
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

10. Re: Door inner seals
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

11. Re: Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

12. Re: Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

13. Re: Door inner seals
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. Tech Session this Saturday in Cincinnati
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

15. Re: Still no start
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. Re: Still no start
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>

17. Re: Re: Door inner seals
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Engine swaps + street legal = ?
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

19. how do i remove my front grill and facia
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

20. Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

21. Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

22. Refrigerants and the Future
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: how do i remove my front grill and facia
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

24. RE: Refrigerants and the Future
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

25. Re: Refrigerants and the Future
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 02:11:13 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

The more common reference is Dodge Minivan (not sure of the year but 
the model change is 1996, so it's either 1995 or 1996) tailgate seal. 
It fits - kind of, but the vent holes are on the wrong side. Depends 
on whether you are trying to band-aid the car together or get it 
right. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am not sure if this question hit the list or not but-has anyone
> tried the cross referenced inner door seals? 1988 Ford Crown Vic 
trunk
> it says, I am wondering if anyone can confirm this, how they fit, 
etc.
> Thanks all- Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 20:44:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

I grabbed one in a junk yard a couple years ago and if
I remember correctly, it was very similar, except for
where it mounts to the car.  Since the Crown Vic is
steel, the channel where it slides over the metal
trunk lip was very narrow, but the Delorean weather
strip channel is wider since it goes over the thicker
fiberglass flange.  The Corwn Vic piece would not have
fit the D very well.  Hope this helps.

P.S.  Just bought my full weather strip kit from one
of our vendors ; )


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


	
		
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 23:31:36 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

Why not buy factory duplicated weatherseal instead of the non original
Both the inner and outer were reproduced with the glueon  reproduced in 
different bulb thicknesses to account for varying door thicknesses 
Rob sells it 
I made it to the specs of the stock weatherstrip holes and all

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 10:13:43 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am not sure if this question hit the list or not 
> but-has anyone tried the cross referenced inner door
> seals? 1988 Ford Crown Vic trunk it says, I am wondering
> if anyone can confirm this, how they fit, etc.

I just took off my old seal and took a piece of it with me
to someone on a Classics-exhibition who sold seals of all
kinds. We just put my old one and his new ones next to each
other untill we found a suitable one.

I needed about 9 meters (roughly 27') to do both doors
and it cost me a total of about $60,-, not too bad !?

Good Luck,

JAN van de Wouw
The Netherlands




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 10:04:12 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

They do work, they're a bit long and need to be cut. The newer seals that
the vendors sell are much improved over those original seals though. I
noticed the seals on DMC Houston's black car while in Evansville last fall
and liked them a lot. I put a set on my car. I know the other vendors like
Rob Grady and Don Steger also have improved seals that fight damage from
ultraviolet and such. I'd just bite the bullet and get some from a vendor.
You'll find the Ford dealer won't be any less expensive.

Bruce Benson

> I am not sure if this question hit the list or not but-has anyone
> tried the cross referenced inner door seals? 1988 Ford Crown Vic trunk
> it says, I am wondering if anyone can confirm this, how they fit, etc.
> Thanks all- Dan Benedek #5003
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 02:10:40 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Still no start

Hello list,

Still having starting problems. Here's what I've done so far.

1) Removed starter and took it to an Auto Electronics shop. Guy said 
it tested fine, I could hear it spinning when he had it on his bench.

2) Gave a good cleaning to all connections on starter and the leads 
going to starter. Cleaned battery terminals and cables.

3) Reinstalled starter. Still won't fire. I turn the key and hear the 
relay clicking, but starter does not turn.

4) When I jump between the terminals on the starter, it spins but 
does not engage and turn the engine.

5) I interchanged the start inhibit relay (it's an auto) with the 
relay next to it (a/c illumination?), but with no different results.

6) Swore and scratched my head a little.

Thoughts?

Nick






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 04:49:27 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???

I've been trying to remove the old armrest because I acquired a mint 
NOS pad I wanted to install instead. I have the 2 10mm screws in the 
back and the 2 phillips head screws in the front out, but still it 
won't budge. It looks to have 4 bolts holding it down in an 
impossible to reach area under the pad. Anyone know of the proper 
way to remove the center armrest pad? I only hope it doesn't involve 
removing the entire center console.

Thanks for any help.


Joseph O'Brien 


2524 & 16634


And thanks everyone for the previous clutch tips, I installed the 
new master cylinder and bled it out perfectly, no more pushing the 
car. Thanks for the advice on that one.




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 19:23:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine swaps + street legal = ?

> legalities of an engine swap.  He says any car with
> an engine swap is 
> just about guaranteed to be illegal in California
> (for on-road use), 
> regardless of how clean the emissions are.

It depends on the state and municipality.
Anchorage, Alaska is that anal about emissions and
original engines passed a certain date.

I had problems with a Jeep once, and the only recourse
was to sell/trade with someone who lived out of the borough.


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Movies - Buy advance tickets for 'Shrek 2'
http://movies.yahoo.com/showtimes/movie?mid=1808405861 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 11:49:57 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

For best results, the car should be level.

--
Mike



> Does it matter if the Bolts are torqued with the back wheels on ramps 
> rather than over a pit? Does it make a difference wether the car is 
> level or at a downward angle?
> 



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 23:27:17 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

What about a X-reference for the outer seals, i am interested in the 
outer seals?

Mark V



On Tuesday, May 11, 2004, at 08:15  PM, TalksToGod wrote:

> I am not sure if this question hit the list or not but-has anyone
> tried the cross referenced inner door seals? 1988 Ford Crown Vic trunk
> it says, I am wondering if anyone can confirm this, how they fit, etc.
> Thanks all- Dan Benedek #5003
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 11:12:28 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???

Hi Joe,

You can reach the screws if you try really hard, but it's much easier to 
just remove the whole console.  There are four 6 or 7 mm nuts holding 
the pad to the console in each corner of the flat part that has the 
ashtray in it.

Good luck!

-Josh


joeyoseppijoe wrote:

>I've been trying to remove the old armrest because I acquired a mint 
>NOS pad I wanted to install instead. I have the 2 10mm screws in the 
>back and the 2 phillips head screws in the front out, but still it 
>won't budge. It looks to have 4 bolts holding it down in an 
>impossible to reach area under the pad. Anyone know of the proper 
>way to remove the center armrest pad? I only hope it doesn't involve 
>removing the entire center console.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>
>Joseph O'Brien 
>
>
>2524 & 16634
>
>
>And thanks everyone for the previous clutch tips, I installed the 
>new master cylinder and bled it out perfectly, no more pushing the 
>car. Thanks for the advice on that one.
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 12:22:32 -0400
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Armrest Removal/Reinstall from center console???

sorry to say... it does. there are 4 bolts under the center console ridge.

Regards,

Michael
vin 6067

Quoting joeyoseppijoe <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>:

> I've been trying to remove the old armrest because I acquired a mint 
> NOS pad I wanted to install instead. I have the 2 10mm screws in the 
> back and the 2 phillips head screws in the front out, but still it 
> won't budge. It looks to have 4 bolts holding it down in an 
> impossible to reach area under the pad. Anyone know of the proper 
> way to remove the center armrest pad? I only hope it doesn't involve 
> removing the entire center console.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Joseph O'Brien 
> 
> 
> 2524 & 16634
> 
> 
> And thanks everyone for the previous clutch tips, I installed the 
> new master cylinder and bled it out perfectly, no more pushing the 
> car. Thanks for the advice on that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 15:47:27 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Door inner seals

For the door outer seal, only for 108983 I am seeing it reference to a
Dodge Caravan or Plymouth Voyager rear hatch both don't specify the
year. These I just bought new because my old ones didn't give me
problems, they were just old. Why I'm trying to find a cheap cross
reference is because I am having quite a hard time fitting the seals
on my car for no leaks. Seems that parts rub on the door when closing
and wear out, some spots don't even touch the door on the pillar, and
the list goes on. So I would hate to spend that kind of money for new
vendor seals and weeks later see them wearing already. If I got cheap
seals, I could then fix my problems by shaving the fiberglass lip a
little, using RTV etc, Prove that they don't leak-and then I would get
the good seals from a vendor so they would be exactly for the car and
fitted-that was my logic. Cost of the seals is not my issue. You may
be wondering why I just don't do this with the seals I have now-they
wore at the top of the door, taken off and replaced with the worn
areas on on the bottom, sort of rotated my seals to buy some time-I
tried to fix it by cutting headliner shorter hoping that was the
problem and it's now leaking again. So now they are worn in lots of
areas, hopeless of being a good test strip to identify and fix the
causes. Thanks for the info though, Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 11:24:16 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Tech Session this Saturday in Cincinnati

Hey Gang,

Anybody that's going to be in or around the Cincinnati area this 
Saturday, (May 15th) is welcome to come over and participate in my 
semi-annual tech session.  We should have a pretty good crowd, and 
Shannon Yocom's wife, Jenette, is going to barbeque for us!  (woo-hoo)

Oh...I've also got a basement filled with at least 2000 different 
Delorean parts, which I will have available for sale, cheap!

Send me a note off list if interested, (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) and I'll 
get you directions.

Thanks,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 3951
VIN 11289
VIN 10236






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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 08:39:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Still no start

Nick,
 
What's your VIN?  Has your car had the starter update done according to the service bulletin?  The bulletin (ST-05-2/82) says the cutoff was VIN 2547.
 
In either case, you might also make sure the brown wire feeding the starter is properly connected and that the circuit breaker in the relay compartment is working.  If it isn't, a condition exactly like you describe will occur.  (See the above mentioned bulletin and the wiring diagram for details).
 
Good luck!
 
Jake and 001063 (with starter modification done)


nbrommer2k <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
Hello list,

Still having starting problems. Here's what I've done so far.

1) Removed starter and took it to an Auto Electronics shop. Guy said 
it tested fine, I could hear it spinning when he had it on his bench.

2) Gave a good cleaning to all connections on starter and the leads 
going to starter. Cleaned battery terminals and cables.

3) Reinstalled starter. Still won't fire. I turn the key and hear the 
relay clicking, but starter does not turn.

4) When I jump between the terminals on the starter, it spins but 
does not engage and turn the engine.

5) I interchanged the start inhibit relay (it's an auto) with the 
relay next to it (a/c illumination?), but with no different results.

6) Swore and scratched my head a little.

Thoughts?

Nick






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 15:18:50 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Re: Still no start

Check your wires.  I had problems with bad wires and even one wire 
was going to the wrong place.

~Dan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hello list,
> 
> Still having starting problems. Here's what I've done so far.
> 
> 1) Removed starter and took it to an Auto Electronics shop. Guy 
said 
> it tested fine, I could hear it spinning when he had it on his 
bench.
> 
> 2) Gave a good cleaning to all connections on starter and the leads 
> going to starter. Cleaned battery terminals and cables.
> 
> 3) Reinstalled starter. Still won't fire. I turn the key and hear 
the 
> relay clicking, but starter does not turn.
> 
> 4) When I jump between the terminals on the starter, it spins but 
> does not engage and turn the engine.
> 
> 5) I interchanged the start inhibit relay (it's an auto) with the 
> relay next to it (a/c illumination?), but with no different results.
> 
> 6) Swore and scratched my head a little.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Nick




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 11:16:54 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Door inner seals

In a message dated 5/12/2004 8:09:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_home.nl writes:
I needed about 9 meters (roughly 27') to do both doors
and it cost me a total of about $60,-, not too bad !?
Rob carries and original replacement that has the holes on the correct size 
and is a duplicate of the original and it fits

And its new stock not old


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 13:28:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Engine swaps + street legal = ?

On Mon, 10 May 2004, composerphacia wrote:

> legalities of an engine swap.  He says any car with an engine swap is
> just about guaranteed to be illegal in California (for on-road use),
> regardless of how clean the emissions are.

It's not that bad.  California has the toughest engine-swap laws in the 
country, but they are not as bad as their reputation.  Most states that 
bother to do emissions testing have engine swap laws similar to 
California's, though some are less stringent.

1) The engine must be from a newer model year, federally-importable
vehicle of the same type (passenger car/light truck/heavy-duty truck), in
this case passenger car.  This is not going to be hard to achieve.  Most 
states with emissions laws have this requirement.

1a) Sometimes you can get around this restriction, if you have a talent 
for bureaucratic wrangling and the engine you are using is not too weird.  
Contact CARB, tell them you are doing an "engine change" and ask about the 
engine you are thinking of using.

2) If the vehicle was originally California certified (as opposed to a 
Federal-emissions version) then the replacement engine must also be 
California certified.  Obviously, this rule only applies in California.

3) The emissions control equipment (including intake and fuel system) from
the replacement engine must be used.  Essentially the goal here is to
prevent you from being able to put race headers on your V8 just because
you swapped it into a new car.  This could be a little complicated in the
DeLorean because of the rear engine.  Any substitutions to the emissions
control equipment must be conducted under relevant CARB rules, i.e. using
CARB-approved substitute components.  If the original vehicle or new
engine is/was OBD2, you have to pass all the OBD2 testing (i.e. the
computer test).

3a) This is the law that varies the most from state to state.  For
instance, in Colorado, no one cares if anything is CARB-legal or not.  
The only requirement is that if either the original vehicle or the swapped
engine was equipped with particular emissions control equipment, the same
or better emissions equipment must be installed (fuel injection, air
injection, catalytic converter, charcoal canister, sealed gas cap are the
parts they care about).  These are actually the same requirements you
have to satisfy if you are modifying an original engine.  But, it does not 
have to be the exact equipment from the replacement engine.  You can use 
any catalytic converter or a Haltech fuel injection system if you want, 
for instance, as long as you pass.  The big advantage here is that you can 
replace the turbo and intercooler if you want to.  Because of the rear 
mounted engine in the DeLorean, I would forget about using a turbocharged 
engine IF you plan to pass in California or any place that requires CARB 
certified parts.

4) You must pass the tailpipe emissions test applicable for the year of 
the engine, at a test-only station.

5) If you have swapped the transmission, you have to pass all these 
requirements for that as well.  Of course, transmission emissions control 
equipment is typically much simpler and you would probably have to try NOT 
to pass for that.

Once you have fulfilled all these requirements, the inspector will give 
you a sticker that will allow you to be tested at any emissions station in 
the future, without having to go through the thorough evaluation again.  
Of course, you still have to pass the regular visual test applicable to 
the engine you used.

> rotary in my DeLorean someday.  I live in Florida, so vehicle
> inspections aren't much of an issue.  Still, though... if I ever move...  

I'd recommend doing the swap with a non-OBD2 engine newer than your
DeLorean, including the emissions control equipment and not worrying about 
the CARB-certified-parts requirement (which is the biggest hassle doing an 
engine swap in California).  Then, don't move to California, or sell your 
car before you leave. :)

> Also, what's the scoop on making JDM engines street-legal in the US?  

Frequently the requirement is that the J-spec engine be street legal if 
swapped into the car it belonged in in the first place.  Sometimes this is 
easy (most Hondas), sometimes it isn't (non-US Skyline, WRX).  This is a 
whole other can of worms.

> I know the Mazda RX-7s are on the US' eligibility list (yes, that 
> includes the '95 RX-7s, which many of you already know wasn't 
> officially available in the US by Mazda).  Then there's the Nissan 
> Skyline.  ;)

In the case of the RX-7 engine, it hardly matters; the 13B-REW is so
complicated and fussy that you are really better off with an '89-'91 13BT,
which (internally at least) is practically the same.

The rotary swap has been done before - one 12A, and one 20B.  The 20B car 
was for sale last year, maybe it's still around.  Painted, unfortunately.




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 19:32:11 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: how do i remove my front grill and facia

hi how do you get the front grill{bit with dmc logo on} off of the 
bumper mine isnt sat in there right.also do i need to remove the 
bumper to repair the sagging over the lights,if its easyer to repair 
the sagging with the facia off how do i get it off
thanks in advance
                  simon




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 19:59:02 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

Adam - Having the car on ramps is absolutely okay in terms of 
torqueing up the TAB's.  The only condition that is really "sub-
optimum" is to have the car daggling from jack stands with the wheels 
off the ground.  Any loading on the rear suspension is good, and 
being at resting stance is the best.  Make sure that the large flat 
washers that the sleeves in the rubber bushing and the trailing arm 
make contact with are in good condition.  Washers that are half worn 
through indicate that there was inappropriate motion in the joint, 
and that motion will likely continue if the parts aren't in good 
condition.  It is permissible to flip the washers over to present a 
good surface to the sleeves.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com   

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Does it matter if the Bolts are torqued with the back wheels on 
ramps 
> rather than over a pit? Does it make a difference wether the car is 
> level or at a downward angle?





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 22:02:10 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

Problem solved!
And I would like to let the list know what happened.

FanZilla don't work with a LED replacement for the Fan Fail Light.
Result: The LED will illuminate at once you install the LED and/or connect the battery.

Solution: Only use the original incandescent bulb for the Fan Fail Light.
I replaced my BA7 bulbs with LEDs in order to cool down the AC Panel decal.
This works excellent! Even though my LEDs were "home-made" by a friendly Englishman :-) I do hope a supplier will make BA7s professionally. As of now, I have contact with a Danish firm called Henckel. 

If you are interested in getting BA 7LEDs, let me know privately.

Having the original bulb for the Fan Fail Light really poses no problem, because it only illuminated (and heat) when there is a real fault with your cooling fans.

So once again - rest assured Fan Zilla is BULLETPROOF, just don't replace that bulb with a LED in the AC Panel.

Cheers,
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 18:29:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Refrigerants and the Future

I was just at a local refrigeration supply. They had a brochure from
one of the refrigerent manufacurers on the counter. The gist of it is
that R-22 will be phased out in the future. You might ask, Why care?
The problem is that R-22 is a component in many of the blended
"drop-in" replacements for R-12. So now we will need a replacement for
the replacements! You will probably see A/C service take another jump
in pricing. The best advice is to get your system serviced and as
leak-proof as possible. Stay with R-12 as long as you can, it is still
better than any of the alternatives whatever they may be in the
future. For more info you can go to www.genetron.com
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 17:19:19 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: how do i remove my front grill and facia

Hi Simon,

I just did an article for DCS on the procedure...but specifically, to 
get the front grille off, (unless a former owner screwed it in, like one 
I heard about recently) you should be able to stick a screwdriver in 
between the grille and the fascia and pry it out.  There are just pins 
holding it in place.  If it doesn't look like it's seated right...check 
carefully to make sure that the last guy didn't try and attach it in a 
different manner.  You don't want to wreck the grille, as it's a $367 part!

It is easier to fix the eyebrows with the fascia off, but it can be done 
without going to that extent.  You simply stick a piece of 3/8"D x 1/8"H 
x the length of the fascia aluminum strip in there above the headlights 
and behind the little lip in the top of the fascia.  We epoxied and 
screwed our plates in for extra support.  If you screw them in, put the 
screws in the center, above the grille so they won't show up when the 
car goes back together.

You may need to use a heat gun/hair dryer to reform the fascia around 
the new strip, if your eyebrows are really bad.  Just be careful not to 
damage the paint.

Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions,
Josh

(Fascia painting round 2 scheduled tentatively for this Sunday...for all 
of you waiting for refurbished fascias!)


simonsays10002003 wrote:

>hi how do you get the front grill{bit with dmc logo on} off of the 
>bumper mine isnt sat in there right.also do i need to remove the 
>bumper to repair the sagging over the lights,if its easyer to repair 
>the sagging with the facia off how do i get it off
>thanks in advance
>                  simon
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 17:29:39 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants and the Future

You are correct sir. Here's the info:

Genetron 22 is a single-component HCFC refrigerant manufactured to meet the
tightest of manufacturer's specification, and can be used to service any
equipment designed to use R-22. R-22 is popular in residential, commercial
and industrial applications.
 
Genetron 22 is available in a variety of package sizes, including 30#
refillable cylinders in Canada, and 30# and 50# DOT-39 recyclable cylinders
in the U.S., South and Latin America, and Asia. Larger sizes include 125,
1000 and 1750 pound cylinders and tanks, and bulk deliveries can be obtained
for larger projects.
 
Refrigerant HCFC-22 or R-22 is being phased out globally by countries as
part of an international agreement on ozone-depleting chemicals. By 2010
most countries will no longer allow R-22 to be used in new refrigeration
systems, and R-22 refrigerant for servicing systems will become less
available over time.
 
Honeywell recommends that supermarkets, bakeries, and other users of
commercial refrigeration equipment consider converting to one of the
following R-22 replacement products:
 
- Genetron 404A (R-404A)
- Genetron 407C (R-407C)
- Genetron AZ-50 (R-507)


-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 11:29 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Refrigerants and the Future

I was just at a local refrigeration supply. They had a brochure from
one of the refrigerent manufacurers on the counter. The gist of it is
that R-22 will be phased out in the future. You might ask, Why care?
The problem is that R-22 is a component in many of the blended
"drop-in" replacements for R-12. So now we will need a replacement for
the replacements! You will probably see A/C service take another jump
in pricing. The best advice is to get your system serviced and as
leak-proof as possible. Stay with R-12 as long as you can, it is still
better than any of the alternatives whatever they may be in the
future. For more info you can go to www.genetron.com
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 



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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 01:51:06 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Refrigerants and the Future

R-22 is an ozone depleting chemical, according to that website which 
suggests that it's not a component in any of the drop-in replacements in 
Europe. RS24 and R413 are two brands of drop-in replacements, here're 
some links

http://www.environ.com/articles/epa_adds_seven_alternatives_to_i.htm

Quote:

"In 1994, four years after the enactment of the Clean Air Act 
Amendments, the Environmental Protection Agency, issued its first list 
of allowable substitutes for CFC and HCFC refrigerants. " (from your 
site, R-22 is an HCFC)

"RS-24ís ozone-depletion potential (ODP) is zero. "

http://tinyurl.com/3gdve

This is the manufactirer of R413 in the UK. There's quite a bit to read, 
here're some more quotes:

"Comfort Cooling or air conditioning is one of the largest consumers of 
refrigerants on a world-wide basis. Many of these systems operate with 
R22 and are not yet affected by imminent phase-out but there are 
numerous systems operating with R12, particularly in the automotive 
industry. "

"Another option is to convert to a zero ODP drop-in replacement. [R413] 
is the only non-flammabile zero ODP drop-in replacement for R12 ..." - 
this is interesting as it suggests that it does not include the propane 
(?) Dave Swingle mentioned.

"[R413] enables direct expansion systems to be converted to a zero ODP 
refrigerant with no system modifications or oil changes. It is therefore 
an ideal option where the cost of an R134a retrofit cannot be justified 
or where it is not practical to perform an oil change."

...They go on to say that although theoretically the performance will be 
slightly reduced, in practice, experiements show no difference in 
temperature.

I've also found several references to US-based suppliers stocking 
replacements, but *not encessarily* for use in cars. Not because it 
can't be used, but simply that people haven't cottoned on to the idea!

I've had R413 in my DeLorean for two years. It works great, and was well 
tested last year when the UK had its hottest summer for decades (and I 
put my AC to the test on the hottest day which hit nearly 110 degrees). 
I have a black interior and was quite comfortable.

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

> I was just at a local refrigeration supply. They had a brochure from
> one of the refrigerent manufacurers on the counter. The gist of it is
> that R-22 will be phased out in the future. You might ask, Why care?
> The problem is that R-22 is a component in many of the blended
> "drop-in" replacements for R-12. So now we will need a replacement for
> the replacements! You will probably see A/C service take another jump
> in pricing. The best advice is to get your system serviced and as
> leak-proof as possible. Stay with R-12 as long as you can, it is still
> better than any of the alternatives whatever they may be in the
> future. For more info you can go to www.genetron.com
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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