From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2014
Date: Thursday, May 13, 2004 5:18 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Let's see your audio installs!
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

5. Re: Still no start
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. Re: Still no start
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

7. Re: Still no start
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. Re: Jack Stands Versus Ramps
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: R22 In Automobiles
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Snapping input shafts - an update
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

11. Re: Rear louver
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>

13. quick question
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

14. Window switch stencils
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. NOS?
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

16. Mode switch anomoly
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

17. Broken Front Roll Guards
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

18. re NOS and other parts info
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. PADOC tech day
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. RE: Mode switch anomoly
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

21. Re: Mode switch anomoly
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Re: Mode switch anomoly
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: NOS?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: re NOS and other parts info
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 03:14:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod

A minor correction - my engine did NOT have a hole in it. I think 
this is a reference to the water pump maintenence web page where I 
refer to someone else as having that problem. 

Dave (nice clean original PRV with all factory systems functional)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> My current PRV has developed a hole in the top a'la Dave Swingle 
(who
> theorizes this may become a common affliction among cars that
> languished outdoors). Recesses in the "Valley of Death" were 
suctioned





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 11:08:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod

Bill,
Three days ago I spoke with Mr. David Muffley, who is the son of the late Mr. Charles Muffley who also carbureted his Delorean.   Not sure if I remember this right, but what he remembered his  father doing was disabling the factory fuel pump but left it in its place so as to use the exisiting lines.  He then placed another fuel pump somewhere else to provide fuel to the caburetor.  Unfortunately, he couldn't remember the location of where he put the new fuel pump.  Maybe someone on the list remembers...?
 
Ben
4613 

content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
My current PRV has developed a hole in the top a'la Dave Swingle (who
theorizes this may become a common affliction among cars that
languished outdoors). Recesses in the "Valley of Death" were suctioned
out the first time I ever removed the intake manifold, but obviously
damage was already done. Didn't leak then, but it sure does now. If
you ever lose the top of your engine you'll know it -- oil absolutely
everywhere, even on the exterior where it gets slung out the louver vents.

Yes: I replaced the front oil seal and ensured timing chain cover was
tight (even reseated lower 8 bolts in silicone with oversize washers).
Verified my hole, with the manifold in place, by flooding the top of
the engine then checking my oil -- full of foam (my head gaskets do
not leak).

Since I have a factory new block sitting idle, will try to transplant
it before Pigeon Forge.

This new block is carbureted, so I need to tone down or jetison the
current CI pump in the tank. My preference is a blank plate over the
opening with a tube straight down into the baffle. Will run a new low
pressure line to the rear of the car, where the pump will probably be
located.

Any suggestions to secure, and seal, a plate over the tank opening?

Bill Robertson
#5939






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 13:43:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod

A possible way to repair the block is to cut a piece of aluminum
roughly square to fit over the hole and epoxy it in. You will need to
clean the area scrupulusly and use the right (read expensive) epoxy. I
have successfully repaired castings (not PRV's) this way as long as it
isn't structural. The alternative is to remove the engine and weld a
piece in (Maybe they could even do it right in place?). Any good shop
that can weld aluminum could do it. The key is to get the area clean
so anything you do will stick.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> My current PRV has developed a hole in the top a'la Dave Swingle (who
> theorizes this may become a common affliction among cars that
> languished outdoors). Recesses in the "Valley of Death" were suctioned
> out the first time I ever removed the intake manifold, but obviously
> damage was already done. Didn't leak then, but it sure does now. If





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 05:32:53 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Let's see your audio installs!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Here's a (bad) pic of my head/eq unit installed:
> 
> http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//cva1003.jpg

Thanks all for your responses. Very nice installs. I really like your
sub, Andy. That's the first place I thought about putting one. That
compartment opens up toward the back a bit - did you seal it in any way? 

Does anyone sell those front speaker kick boxes for the DeLorean? This
guy (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/285556/2) claims he will sell
them, but he hasn't responded to emails.

-Ryan





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 03:24:41 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Still no start

Take the starter out and bench test the starter yourself. Then you
will know what the deal is, and what to do next. As long as you have a
12 volt battery and some jumpers, you are all set. Put the starter in
a vice or on an open bench- it does jump a little bit with the torque
when you do this, but this is only slight and under control if you
have a hand holding it down- its not going to fly out the window or
anything like that on you so don't be worried. If in doubt just put it
in a vice. Hook up a ground to the body of the starter somewhere and
once you have a hand on the starter touch the positive to the large
terminal under the one that usually has the large red wires going to
it. It's the only other larger size terminal on the solenoid and you
should see it connects to a smaller terminal. Starter should engage,
and you should see the gear slide forward as if it would engage the
flywheel. If it doesn't slide forward you know your starter needs
repair. If it does, then you have eliminated your starter as a
problem, and know the problem is on the flywheel side. Your engine
isn't seized is it? If you need starter repairs or testing please
contact me off list. Perhaps there is something blocking the gear from
sliding all the way forward?-check it out, let us know.




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:20:23 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Still no start

Actually I think he short circuited it without putting current on the
solenoid that pulls the gear out. This will make the motor spin like
described.

Try it again and this time don't short the large terminals, instead
connect the little spade connector directly to 12V.

I'm sure this is a simple problem. Get yourself a multimeter and
check if there's voltage on the relay. Or maybe you pulled out one 
of the many connectors in the motor compartment / E-Box.

Elvis


> Based on #4, either your starter motor's bendix (the gizmo that throws
> the gear out) is bad, or you've got broken teeth on the flywheel.
> Shine a light into the bellhousing to eliminate the latter.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Hello list,
> > 
> > Still having starting problems. Here's what I've done so far.
> > 
> > 1) Removed starter and took it to an Auto Electronics shop. Guy said 
> > it tested fine, I could hear it spinning when he had it on his bench.
> > 
> > 2) Gave a good cleaning to all connections on starter and the leads 
> > going to starter. Cleaned battery terminals and cables.
> > 
> > 3) Reinstalled starter. Still won't fire. I turn the key and hear the 
> > relay clicking, but starter does not turn.
> > 
> > 4) When I jump between the terminals on the starter, it spins but 
> > does not engage and turn the engine.
> > 
> > 5) I interchanged the start inhibit relay (it's an auto) with the 
> > relay next to it (a/c illumination?), but with no different results.
> > 
> > 6) Swore and scratched my head a little.
> > 
> > Thoughts?
> > 
> > Nick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 

-- 
"Sie haben neue Mails!" - Die GMX Toolbar informiert Sie beim Surfen!
Jetzt aktivieren unter http://www.gmx.net/info




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 10:30:43 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Still no start

Have you cleaned the negative battery ground on the frame in the engine
compartment?

The car routes the battery ground to the frame and then back to the engine.
This frame connection will corrode (rust). That's why I routed the battery
ground directly to the engine bell housing and then back to the frame with
another cable. This way the starter gets a good ground connection right on
the engine.

Have you had the battery load tested? You could have a bad cell.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 10:10 PM
Subject: [DML] Still no start


> Hello list,
>
> Still having starting problems. Here's what I've done so far.
>
> 1) Removed starter and took it to an Auto Electronics shop. Guy said
> it tested fine, I could hear it spinning when he had it on his bench.
>
> 2) Gave a good cleaning to all connections on starter and the leads
> going to starter. Cleaned battery terminals and cables.
>
> 3) Reinstalled starter. Still won't fire. I turn the key and hear the
> relay clicking, but starter does not turn.
>
> 4) When I jump between the terminals on the starter, it spins but
> does not engage and turn the engine.
>




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 06:05:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Jack Stands Versus Ramps

I totally agree with David's advocacy of jack stands. They are a
tremendously stable platform under which to work. I have absolutely no
fear of beating and prying on a car so supported. Have done so for years.

One point David forgot to mention: Jack stands and a floor jack will
fit under the hood of your car. I usually travel with a 3 ton floor
jack and pair of jack stands under my mine. Have saved my backside
more times than I can count. For example, on the way home from SEDOC
last year, a coolant hose (I have hose sections running to the frame
pipes rather than pipe sections) tipped forward and the drive axle
rubbed a pinhole leak in it. I had the car in the air and the problem
diagnosed in less than 10 minutes. Louie Golden was kind enough to
give me a ride to the parts house, and I was back on the road shortly
thereafter. Was as easy as repairing it in my own driveway.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I do not like ramps. For the most part they are made very cheaply.
> Even on a hard level surface many are so weak that you could push the
> car sidways and the ramps would just fall over. In many cases you
> would hit the underbody of the car if you where to try to drive up
> onto them. If you have to jack the car up anyway jackstands are MUCH 
> safer. Jackstands take up less room and allow you to remove the
> wheels, you can't do that with ramps. Most of the time when you need
> to get a car up off the ground you have to remove the wheels anyway.
> You can get a car a lot higher with jackstands than a ramp and for a
> Delorean it makes it nicer to work under if you can get it higher. I
> would never go under a car with a creeper that is on ramps. For some
> jobs like trans and clutch ramps are just too low. You can get a good
> set of 2 jackstands around 2-3 tons for $25 per pair. You can easily
> spend more than $50 dollars for 1 set of ramps. Of course you will
> have to spend for a floor jack but it is one of the more useful tools
> you can have for a car. NEVER EVEN THINK OF USING CINDER BLOCKS TO
> SUPPORT A CAR!!!!!! They can crumble without warning. Same goes for
> wire milk crates, plastic boxes and all the other things you can
> imagine. If you are doing work on the car for enjoyment and/or to save
> money it is worth your life to spend a little of your savings on some
> quality tools.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> > Adam - Having the car on ramps is absolutely okay in terms of 
> > torqueing up the TAB's.  The only condition that is really "sub-




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 05:49:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: R22 In Automobiles

I've always heard that auto A/C compressors can't pump R22. Apparently
some people tried when the R12 stink first came up with negative results.

Some people did try LP with good results (cooling wise...). That's why
A/C shops are reluctant to add your charge to their supply unless they
know the car.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> You are correct sir. Here's the info:
> 
> Genetron 22 is a single-component HCFC refrigerant manufactured to
meet the
> tightest of manufacturer's specification, and can be used to service any
> equipment designed to use R-22. R-22 is popular in residential,
commercial
> and industrial applications.
>  
> Genetron 22 is available in a variety of package sizes, including 30#
> refillable cylinders in Canada, and 30# and 50# DOT-39 recyclable
cylinders
> in the U.S., South and Latin America, and Asia. Larger sizes include
125,
> 1000 and 1750 pound cylinders and tanks, and bulk deliveries can be
obtained
> for larger projects.
>  
> Refrigerant HCFC-22 or R-22 is being phased out globally by countries as
> part of an international agreement on ozone-depleting chemicals. By 2010
> most countries will no longer allow R-22 to be used in new refrigeration
> systems, and R-22 refrigerant for servicing systems will become less
> available over time.
>  
> Honeywell recommends that supermarkets, bakeries, and other users of
> commercial refrigeration equipment consider converting to one of the
> following R-22 replacement products:
>  
> - Genetron 404A (R-404A)
> - Genetron 407C (R-407C)
> - Genetron AZ-50 (R-507)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_w...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 11:29 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Refrigerants and the Future
> 
> I was just at a local refrigeration supply. They had a brochure from
> one of the refrigerent manufacurers on the counter. The gist of it is
> that R-22 will be phased out in the future. You might ask, Why care?
> The problem is that R-22 is a component in many of the blended
> "drop-in" replacements for R-12. So now we will need a replacement for
> the replacements! You will probably see A/C service take another jump
> in pricing. The best advice is to get your system serviced and as
> leak-proof as possible. Stay with R-12 as long as you can, it is still
> better than any of the alternatives whatever they may be in the
> future. For more info you can go to www.genetron.com
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 11:41:28 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Snapping input shafts - an update

The DeLorean uses a 3.44:1 final drive which is longer legged than the
version you mention for the GT40 replicas.  3.8:1 and 4.1:1 are lower gear
ratios. The 4.10:1 is quite low. 4.11:1 is used in many four wheel drive
trucks here in the states when a lot of grunt power is needed off the line..
As for the GT40's, I remember reading about some fellows in Pennsylvania
importing the kits into the states several years ago. I believe they used
Ford 351 Cleveland engines in them so UN1 transaxles must have stood up
reasonably well with high torque engines and lower final drives. Also, there
must have been a source of bellhousing adaptors for small block Ford V-8's
to mate with the Renault trannys.

Bruce Benson


> The GT40 replicas use a "long legged" final drive to >give a good top
> speed - which bears out what I've been saying about >the final drive
> being the key. All the performance Renaults using the >UN1 or 369 have a
> 3.8:1 or even 4.1:1, and they never break...
> Martin
> DMUK




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 13:36:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rear louver

Instead of buying another rear sunshade, aka rear louvre, Look for an
auto body shop that is good with repairing fiberglass. If you see
Corvettes in the shop than you know you are in the right place. If you
have all the pieces it is no big deal to repair. Even if you don't
have all the pieces, if they are a good shop they should still be able
to fix you up. Besides the high cost of the part you will have a large
shipping bill so it probably is cheaper to fix the old one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jimbo0946_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone on the board has a rear louver that they
would like to sell.  Some A$$hole decided to walk over my car when I
had it parked and stepped through one of the ribs.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim
> VIN # 15880




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:23:03 -0000
From: "Wilhelm Starberg" <wilm_at_dml_broadpark.no>
Subject: Re: Roof support repair, was Torsion bars removed.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
>
> Didn't this all start because of your T-Bar and the rear sheet
> metal part ? 

Yes Sir :)

> the roof support is made of three different pieces
> and only the large middle section can be taken off. Even if your 
> rear part isn't glued on anymore - this will be very hard
> to make without the original tools. The middle section can be 
> done, but does it make a sense ? is it rusty ? inside ?

I have removed the middle section - and it looks ok, so I'll just 
repair that one.

The rear section is not that good, I'll remove the rust (once
I get it off) and see if it is repairable, I hope so - It is,
as you said, very hard to make.

I've taken some pitures, if anyone is interested:

http://home.broadpark.no/~wstarber/dmc/roof.html

I hope not to many of us have a roof like that.

Btw:
Does anyone know how the bolts that go through the roof, and up 
through the hinge is fastened? and how to remove and replace?


Thanks,
Wilhelm.






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 22:43:45 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: quick question



I am pleased to say that I'm one of you now -- the proud owner of 
10440 - bought from Sean, ThinkStainless, today.  It isn't without 
problems, but none is insurmountable.  

Its cooling problems have been addressed on list and I will indeed 
see to them.  But this led to a delightful adventure driving home 
from Phoenix to Tucson.  It wasn't even hot today (by our standards) 
but the car overheated halfway down the freeway.  When I stopped 
at a service station in Casa Grande, one of those "BFE" towns in 
rural AZ that even _I_ laugh at (I grew up in NY, btw)  two blokes in a 
brand new Austin Cooper reeled in after me and were beyond 
thrilled to see a  Delorean in person.  Turned out they were on a 
photo-journalism tour of automotive US sanctioned by BMW and 
wanted to get photos of the car for their magazine story.  So with 
any luck, 10440 will be  famous  after their tour, albeit with its 
engine cover in the air  while it cooled down and sitting in a puddle 
of coolant .    It did overheat again a block from my house, so with 
the help of a neighbor, my husband pushed it into the yard - but we 
made it home!!  I did manage to get it up to 90 for a while on the 
freeway.

Sean -- I have a question for you ----- had you considered a bad 
thermostat as a potential cooling problem?

.................LP
seduced by stainless 10440








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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 12:32:58 -0000
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Window switch stencils

I haven't seen anything about this on the archives and I've been 
looking through multiple web sites with no luck, where can I get the 
window switch stencils? Thanks..




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 00:21:41 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: NOS?

I know I'll be slapping my forehead with my hand when someone 
tells me -- but what does NOS mean?

And I keep forgetting to mention -- had anyone else gotton sucked in 
to watching the TV movie about earthquakes last week and noticed 
that the logo they created for the investigational team was exactly 
like the DMC logo?

....................LP
still seduced by stainless
10440



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:12:07 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Mode switch anomoly

Ever since I have had my DeLorean, when turning the mode switch to different
vent settings it has always seemed to blow out of all the vents and not
divert the air as it should.

It does not hiss or create that vacuum sound, but the aircon does blow hot
and cold as it should.  I can see that all of the mode switch connections
and hoses are intact by peering through the rear of each side of the console
with the aid of a torch/flashlight.

Does this confirm that the mode switch needs a rebuild even though it does
not 'leak' or could other factors be considered?

Thanks for any help.

Chris H
vin 5255




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:21:58 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Broken Front Roll Guards

Leaves

My Front Roll Guards, PN 108594, 108592, 108590, are broken at the mounting stud holes. (Ref. Parts Manual 8/7/0) Either from a accident from a PO or from old age. I tried hot melt and also urethane epoxy but nothing seems to stick to the plastic material. The padding is also coming off because the contact adhesive is not sticking. Is there any way to mend these parts?

Dave Sontos

vin 02573


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 18:16:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: re NOS and other parts info

New Old Stock. Implies new, stock OEM parts that are original 
vintage, i.e. old parts that have never been on a car and are the 
parts intended for the car. But are old. Other related terms are:

New New Stock - exact OEM replacement parts that are still being 
manufactured (spark plugs, Fuel pumps for example)

Reproduction - parts that are being manufacture as close to original 
as possible, but not by the original manufacuturer and may have been 
reverse-engineered rather than from original prints. (Fuel system 
rubber parts, angle drives etc).

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer. The company that built the 
parts for the car company in the first place. The Aftermarket version 
is usually but not always indentical, in some cases the specs are not 
quite as tight on OEM aftermarket as on OEM via the Manufacturer (at 
least this is what the manufacturers tell you). 

Dave S





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 12:36:23 -0000
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: PADOC tech day

A delayed but sincere thank you to Dan and Judy P. for putting on an 
EXCELLENT tech session at their wonderful home. They really made me 
look bad with the catering preparations they made for the guest. It 
was nice to meet some new Ohio owners and as allwasy was a good time. 
Thanks Dan, you and Dave S have made a BIG difference in my Delorean 
ownership experience!

Dom Diaz

5497




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 15:48:28 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Mode switch anomoly

The rubber diaphragm is held in place with 3 rubber studs. These have torn
away, that's why you cannot change modes. Take it apart and you'll see it. I
ended up using rubber cement to secure mine. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Hawes [mailto:chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk] 
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 11:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Mode switch anomoly

Ever since I have had my DeLorean, when turning the mode switch to different
vent settings it has always seemed to blow out of all the vents and not
divert the air as it should.

It does not hiss or create that vacuum sound, but the aircon does blow hot
and cold as it should.  I can see that all of the mode switch connections
and hoses are intact by peering through the rear of each side of the console
with the aid of a torch/flashlight.

Does this confirm that the mode switch needs a rebuild even though it does
not 'leak' or could other factors be considered?

Thanks for any help.

Chris H
vin 5255




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 20:33:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Mode switch anomoly

Inside the mode switch is a rubber disk. The three tits on the back 
are broken off so the disc does not turn when you turn the knob. 
Either glue it in place or buy the replacement disc - available for 
sure at Grady but probably everywhere. 

Remove the switch from the dash, take it apart etc. There are 
instructions in one of the magazines but I don't recall which one. 
You don't really need them. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Ever since I have had my DeLorean, when turning the mode switch to 
different
> vent settings it has always seemed to blow out of all the vents and 
not
> divert the air as it should.
> 




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:53:10 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Mode switch anomoly

Either the mode switch is the problem or the vacuum motors
that move the diverter flaps are defective.  This could also
indicate a pretty massive vacuum leak elsewhere in the 
vacuum system.  Unfortunately, you get to spend a lot of 
time on your head under the dash to debug this one.  

--
Mike



> Ever since I have had my DeLorean, when turning the mode switch to different
> vent settings it has always seemed to blow out of all the vents and not
> divert the air as it should.
> 
> It does not hiss or create that vacuum sound, but the aircon does blow hot
> and cold as it should.  I can see that all of the mode switch connections
> and hoses are intact by peering through the rear of each side of the console
> with the aid of a torch/flashlight.
> 
> Does this confirm that the mode switch needs a rebuild even though it does
> not 'leak' or could other factors be considered?
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Chris H
> vin 5255
> 



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 17:08:52 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Let's see your audio installs!

In a message dated 5/13/04 3:09:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com writes:


> Thanks all for your responses. Very nice installs. I really like your
> sub, Andy. That's the first place I thought about putting one. That
> compartment opens up toward the back a bit - did you seal it in any way? 
> 

Ryan,  
the enclosure for my subwoofer is totally sealed and matches the recommended 
enclosure volume for that woofer.


> Does anyone sell those front speaker kick boxes for the DeLorean? This
> guy (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/285556/2) claims he will sell
> them, but he hasn't responded to emails.
> 
> -Ryan

You can get front speaker kick boxes like mine from Don Steger at DeLorean 
Motor Center, Garden Grove, CA.  i think they were $250 with speakers included.

Good Luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 13:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: NOS?

New Old Stock..  It refers to a unused (new) factory
part, that has been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.
(For DeLoreans, at least)

Also, dont drive that car till you get the cooling
system fixed.  The PRV engine is very easy to damage
by overheating it.  You may be in for a big head
gasket job in the not so distant future due to over
heating..  If your lucky, a head gasket is all you
will need.

Sean Corbett has a bad reputation in the DeLorean
world. He has even been sued a number of times.  If I
were you, I would have that car at one of the major
DeLorean vendors for a through inspection. (PJ Grady,
DMC Garden Grove CA, DMC Houston Tx)

--- Lauren <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net> wrote:
> I know I'll be slapping my forehead with my hand
> when someone 
> tells me -- but what does NOS mean?



	
		
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Yahoo! Movies - Buy advance tickets for 'Shrek 2'
http://movies.yahoo.com/showtimes/movie?mid=1808405861 



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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:50:29 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: re NOS and other parts info

These are important distinctions to know.  In a lot of circles,
NOS is often used by people selling original used parts. This
happens all the time in Mustang, Camaro and Firebird circles.
You will see a photo of a claimed NOS fender that has been
painted!  

--
Mike



> New Old Stock. Implies new, stock OEM parts that are original 
> vintage, i.e. old parts that have never been on a car and are the 
> parts intended for the car. But are old. Other related terms are:
> 
> New New Stock - exact OEM replacement parts that are still being 
> manufactured (spark plugs, Fuel pumps for example)
> 
> Reproduction - parts that are being manufacture as close to original 
> as possible, but not by the original manufacuturer and may have been 
> reverse-engineered rather than from original prints. (Fuel system 
> rubber parts, angle drives etc).
> 
> OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer. The company that built the 
> parts for the car company in the first place. The Aftermarket version 
> is usually but not always indentical, in some cases the specs are not 
> quite as tight on OEM aftermarket as on OEM via the Manufacturer (at 
> least this is what the manufacturers tell you). 
> 
> Dave S
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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