From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2016
Date: Friday, May 14, 2004 5:32 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>

2. Tech Session w/Don Steger (Chicago)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Let's see your audio installs!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: NOS?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. apologies to Daniel
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

6. Re: NOS?
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

7. Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod
From: "darryl" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

8. Re: quick question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. AW: Door problem!!!!!
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Re: Door problem!!!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. steaming 10440
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

12. partial TAB success
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Raffle car on its way back to Chicago
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. Pigeon Forge ADDITION
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: partial TAB success
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Painting the inside of hood compartment
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

17. Re: Re: quick question
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

18. Personal favor
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

19. Fuel Tank Mod Decided
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>

21. Re: partial TAB success
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Original locking module: Really that bad?
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

23. Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. RE: Re: partial TAB success
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

25. Re: Re: partial TAB success
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 12:59:31 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23

As an added bonus and incentive to bring your Delorean out for the 
upcoming concours at Disney on May 23, DeLorean expert Rob Grady will 
be holding a free tech session for all DeLorean owners attending the 
event. Several topics will be covered, including:
-Preparing your car for Pigeon Forge
-Checking over your cars mechanicals before a long road trip
-Concours judging and preparation
-Question and answer session
This is an excellent opportunity to meet and speak with Rob, and have 
him look over your car before Pigeon Forge. A check out may help 
avoid a mechanical issue on the road, or uncover that extra concours 
point before the big show.
This exotic car concours is being held in Celebration, Florida, 
(right across from Disney) on May 23. Over 100 exotic cars are 
expected, and all proceeds benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation. Don't 
miss this fun councours event and Rob Grady Tech Session, go home 
with a beautiful concours trophy, and help these children with life 
threatening illnesses at the same time.
Information and registration can be found on line at
www.celebrationexoticcars.com
or by contacting me directly at cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net or contacting 
Rob Grady.
Registration deadline has been extended to May 17! We have room for 8 
more DeLoreans!
Jeff Ippoliti
20022




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 13:14:58 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Tech Session w/Don Steger (Chicago)

Tomorrow Saturday May 15 is the DeLorean Midwest Club Tech session 
with DON STEGER of DeLorean Motor Center. We'll be at it all day at 
Neuqua Valley High School in Naperville IL, 95th street at Route 59. 
Contact me off-list if you need more info. We'll have a couple of 
special attractions including the latest SS frame conversion. 

Dave Swingle swingle(at)dmcnews.com




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 01:58:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Let's see your audio installs!

DeLorean Motor Center has them.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > Here's a (bad) pic of my head/eq unit installed:
> > 
> > http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//cva1003.jpg
> 
> Thanks all for your responses. Very nice installs. I really like 
your
> sub, Andy. That's the first place I thought about putting one. That
> compartment opens up toward the back a bit - did you seal it in 
any way? 
> 
> Does anyone sell those front speaker kick boxes for the DeLorean? 
This
> guy (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/285556/2) claims he will 
sell
> them, but he hasn't responded to emails.
> 
> -Ryan




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 04:20:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: NOS?

When I go to swap meets and car shows it also means "No One's Sure" if
it will fit or is still any good. Be real careful with N.O.S. If it is
20 years old it may have died on the shelf long ago. For instance I do
not think an NOS strut is worth anything but an NOS fender could be
fine! Same problem for rubber like door seals, tires, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cory Cooley <mrdelorean88_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> NOS is short for Nitrous Oxide System. This is the stuff makes your
car go faster and kicks up the horse power. If you watch the movie Fast 




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:21:31 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: apologies to Daniel


Hello Daniel -

> By the way, I live in the city of CASA GRANDE

I am so very embarassed by my poor choice of words and offer you 
my sincerest public apologies. I've been here for 31 years and the 
Sonoran desert is my  home. I hadn't been in Casa Grande in 20 
years until yesterday, so what I said was totally unfair. It may be a 
quirk of my personality, but I tend to find humor in things that 
surround me, not to diminish them, just to see the ligher side.  Like 
meeting two English blokes armed with a battery of cameras, 
driving another exotic, at a combination Dairy Queen/gas station in a 
small city  and attracting the attention of every passerby.   We 
actually joked about "take your picture with the Delorean or the 
Austin for $5".   Particularly after your gracious welcome to the AZ-
D club, I feel terrible that I may have offended you.   That wasn't my 
intent at all and I do look forward to meeting you at the gathering on 
the 22nd -- with or without my coolant-spewing Delorean.

> Glad to hear that another DeLorean has made it's way to Tucson

me, too :))  

> an owner who can appreciate it.

I've wanted once since 1981!  It may take me several years, but 
10440 will be a stellar vehicle again.

> planned for Saturday, May 22nd. If you are interested please contact
> myself or someone else in the AZ-D Club, 

please let me know the particulars.  I wouldn't miss it for the world.

Thank you for being so kind, Daniel. I look forward to meeting you.

...................LP

seduced by stainless
HOT 10440



> 



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 19:26:48 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: NOS?


> New Old Stock.. 

Thanks to all for the explanation of NOS.  And yes,  heel of hand did 
rise to meet forehead with a big DUH!  

.................LP
10440









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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 20:02:10 -0700
From: "darryl" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: Re: Soliciting Suggestions For Fuel Tank Mod

When I built BLWNAWY I made a stainless steel cap for the tank opening, with a thin stainless band welded around it that just slipped over the opening.  I welded in a single straight pickup tube that ended where the bottom of the stock pump would have been.  Around the neck of the tank I used several Vitrol (?) o-rings that are impervious to fuel as a seal, slipped the cap over them, and secured with one of those super heavy duty s/s clamps.  Since I also didn't need a fuel accumulator, an electric low-pressure pump was installed inside the frame in its place.  After some 10 years of use it is still working great with no leaks.
 
Darryl Tinnerstet
(formerly Specialty Automotive)
McCleary, WA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 04:04:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: quick question

Welcome aboard, but:

Overheating a PRV shouldn't be taken lightly. It's a very different
piece of hardware from traditional cast iron blocks. Not only are
almost all components aluminum, there are MANY more of them (with
attendant seals and gaskets). They do not respond well to overheating.
Don't forget that your coolant boils at nearly 280 degrees -- won't
take long at those temperatures to warp their numerous mating surfaces.

I'm running a Renault repower (currently suffering from a different
malady) precisely because a PO "melted" the factory block.

Your first order of business as a new owner should be to replace every
hose in the cooling system. There are more of them than you may
realize, and some are hidden under the intake manifold. You must
ensure that the cooling fan circuit operates properly, and that both
fans spin. Bleeding air out is imperative because not only is the
thermostat the highest point in the system, it is also located too far
from the radiator to bleed itself (unless you install a self bleeder,
which I highly recommend).

Otherwise enjoy your ownership experience. Can be a lot of work
sometimes, but is a lot of fun all other times.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I am pleased to say that I'm one of you now -- the proud owner of 
> 10440 - bought from Sean, ThinkStainless, today.  It isn't without 
> problems, but none is insurmountable.  
> 
> Its cooling problems have been addressed on list and I will indeed 
> see to them.  But this led to a delightful adventure driving home 
> from Phoenix to Tucson.  It wasn't even hot today (by our standards) 
> but the car overheated halfway down the freeway.  When I stopped 
> at a service station in Casa Grande, one of those "BFE" towns in 
> rural AZ that even _I_ laugh at (I grew up in NY, btw)  two blokes in a 
> brand new Austin Cooper reeled in after me and were beyond 
> thrilled to see a  Delorean in person.  Turned out they were on a 
> photo-journalism tour of automotive US sanctioned by BMW and 
> wanted to get photos of the car for their magazine story.  So with 
> any luck, 10440 will be  famous  after their tour, albeit with its 
> engine cover in the air  while it cooled down and sitting in a puddle 
> of coolant .    It did overheat again a block from my house, so with 
> the help of a neighbor, my husband pushed it into the yard - but we 
> made it home!!  I did manage to get it up to 90 for a while on the 
> freeway.
> 
> Sean -- I have a question for you ----- had you considered a bad 
> thermostat as a potential cooling problem?
> 
> .................LP
> seduced by stainless 10440




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 07:33:26 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Door problem!!!!!

It's not the solenoid that let's keeps the door locked.
If it really would be the solenoid then 
1. the relay would be sticking
or 
2. simply by unplugging the red fat wire from the circuit 
breaker should stop that.
and
3. both doors would be stuck closed.

you probably have a mechanical problem like I had before.
when the door was locked and I pulled the lever inside the door
something was moved a little bit so that it wouldn't unlock 
anymore.
simply by cutting a short piece of the end of a rod solved the problem.

Elvis & 6548


Hey all, 
My passenger door lock is stuck. I can hear the relays clicking, and 
can move the relays manually in the relay compartment (with a 
popsicle stick) they click, but still no go. I tried unplugging the 
two wires (red and brown) but the solenoid will not let go. Any 
other ideas? Don't care if the locks work at this point, just want 
to get the darn door open so I can rewind the solenoids!!!! 

Thanks in advance.
JOHNZD81 
VIN 1674




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 13:54:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door problem!!!!!

Your problem is not so much with the solenoids as it is with the
linkage and internal adjustments on the door. The solenoids may be bad
but even so you should be able to unlock and open the door manually.
If you cannot then it is the adjustments which need to done first.
This usually occurs because of forcing the locking of the door when it
is not properly closed. Have someone try to open the door from the
outside while you go inside and unlock and release the door. This
usually works. If it doesn't than you will have to remove the bottom
trim panel inside and manually pull on the linkage. After you get all
the internal adjustments and the anchor pins set you can worry about
the solenoids. If you still have the origional locking module you
should disconnect it anyway so you don't get locked in and kill the
battery and the solenoids (which is what it also sounds like is
happening).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "johnzd81" <johnzd81_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey all, 
> My passenger door lock is stuck. I can hear the relays clicking, and 
> can move the relays manually in the relay compartment (with a 
> popsicle stick) they click, but still no go. I tried unplugging the 
> two wires (red and brown) but the solenoid will not let go. Any 
> other ideas? Don't care if the locks work at this point, just want 
> to get the darn door open so I can rewind the solenoids!!!! 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> JOHNZD81 
> VIN 1674




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 20:03:48 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: steaming 10440


Thanks to all for suggestions on the cooling problems.  Fortunately, 
I know a shop in Tucson owned by a guy who has Delorean 
experience.   He focuses on exotics and hi-end vehicles (his parking 
lot is a wet dream for car lovers!) and is  willing to work on mine so 
hopefully next week I can get him to take a look at it and share all 
your suggestions with him.   I know there's a leak in the cooling 
system and I suspect a bad thermostat/otterstat, perhaps a problem 
with the fans as well.   Frustrating to have a beautiful D just parked 
in my backyard!

...........................LP

10440




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 08:00:27 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: partial TAB success

Group,

Yesterday I finally had the time to change my trailing arm bolts to 
Toby-TAB's.  I am fortunate enough to have a mechanic's pit with a lift at work, so i 
had the best of both worlds.  unfortunately, i was only able to do the 
passenger side bolt, which came apart rather easily.  the driver's side bolt was a 
different story.  the nut came off fine enough, but that's as far as i got.  i 
was unable to get the bolt to move even a millimeter!!  i put the nut back on 
the threads and wacked it with a hammer about 200 times and even put a 19mm 
socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe on the end (about 30" leverage) to 
try and turn the bolt.  i MIGHT have turned it about 1/2 a turn, but it was 
inconclusive.  it was getting late so i finished the passenger side and put 
everything else back together.  

What do i do to get the driver's side bolt out?  the passenger side was a 
little rusty and was probably moderately bent.  i could see it bent a little bit 
halfway down.  makes me want to REALLY get that driver's side out now!

Thanks for the tips - 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 10:35:11 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car on its way back to Chicago

Well the last of the interior upgrades have been made to the raffle car and 
we had some other donated work done at Bauerle's so we are about done with the 
raffle car now other than to just drive it

We also relplaced the air conditioner belt and had the system recharged.  
Josh drove it back from Columbus to Cincinnati and has been driving it all week.

It is going back to Chicago tonight and will be there until Pigeon Forge

Ken

Its still not to late to get a raffle ticket

over 175 sold


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 10:40:39 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Pigeon Forge ADDITION

We have a special guest coming to Pigeon Forge 
This is last minute but he will replace Marvin Katz who had a family matter 
to attend to that weekend.  
This individual was one of the first group to assemble DeLoreans.  He lives 
in Europe and will be at the show to tell us about what it too to get up to 50 
cars per day production.  

His team was hired to build cars up to 50 car per day then the factory was to 
take over.

His stories are unbelievable and we will have him talk about it to you at the 
show

Rather than doing it in a large group he prefers smaller groups so he can 
answer more questions and get to know you all so he will be seeing you in Pigeon 
Forge.

We will have him probably in the small conference hall and set up a series of 
sessions
That is TBD.

Also Fred Dellis the creator of the Legend Turbo will be doing a tech session 
/ question and answer session on what the turbo project was all about and we 
have been to see Fred a number of times in the past few years and listening to 
him is extrememly interesting so I hope you all will enjoy.

We hope to be covering things about the car in a way that you have never seen 
before 

See you in Pigeon Forge

Ken
deloreancarshow.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 17:06:17 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success

You may have to cut it out.  I've seen it done before but I'm not 
sure what tool was used, (torch, cutting wheel).  If you can't turn 
it, then you can't check to see if it's bent.

Johnny
5518


> Group,
> 
> Yesterday I finally had the time to change my trailing arm bolts to 
> Toby-TAB's.  I am fortunate enough to have a mechanic's pit with a 
lift at work, so i 
> had the best of both worlds.  unfortunately, i was only able to do 
the 
> passenger side bolt, which came apart rather easily.  the driver's 
side bolt was a 
> different story.  the nut came off fine enough, but that's as far 
as i got.  i 
> was unable to get the bolt to move even a millimeter!!  i put the 
nut back on 
> the threads and wacked it with a hammer about 200 times and even 
put a 19mm 
> socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe on the end (about 
30" leverage) to 
> try and turn the bolt.  i MIGHT have turned it about 1/2 a turn, 
but it was 
> inconclusive.  it was getting late so i finished the passenger side 
and put 
> everything else back together.  
> 
> What do i do to get the driver's side bolt out?  the passenger side 
was a 
> little rusty and was probably moderately bent.  i could see it bent 
a little bit 
> halfway down.  makes me want to REALLY get that driver's side out 
now!
> 
> Thanks for the tips - 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 20:45:34 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Painting the inside of hood compartment

Hi all,

I am in the process of re-painting the inside of the hood compartment.
I have sanded the original black paint off and washed it clean (it
still looks black however). I was wondering if there is any other
special prepping I need to do before I paint it?

Thanks
Spike




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 15:42:52 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: quick question

I'm not convinced that replacing all the hoses is the appropriate action
at this time.  I'd first find out why the engine was running hot.
bad fan(s)? otterstat?  running too lean? air in the coolant system? 
coolant not mixed properly? plugged radiator fins? bad oil?

If you're going to torture the vehicle with elevated temperatures until
the problem is resolved, you might as well not have brand new parts
taking the beating.  

Jim
1537

On Fri, 14 May 2004 04:04:24 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> writes:
> Welcome aboard, but:
>
...
> Your first order of business as a new owner should be to replace 
> every
> hose in the cooling system. There are more of them than you may
> realize, and some are hidden under the intake manifold. You must
> ensure that the cooling fan circuit operates properly, and that both
> fans spin. Bleeding air out is imperative because not only is the
> thermostat the highest point in the system, it is also located too 
> far
> from the radiator to bleed itself (unless you install a self 
> bleeder,
> which I highly recommend).
...

________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 06:38:54 -0000
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: Personal favor

It's not DeLorean related so I hope the moderator will let this 
through, but I'm looking for someone who lives in Florida and is 
visiting the Star Wars weekends at Disney-MGM studios this month.
Please contact me off list at debruin(at)dia.eur.nl, I want to ask 
you a favour.

Mads de Bruin
#2010





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 21:00:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Mod Decided

I have located a low PSI electric pump, 2" in diameter. Will bush it
out to 2 3/8" with a piece of industrial fuel hose and use it in the
stock boot, most likely attached to the original electrical circuit.
Will cap the return grommet with a short piece of SS rod. Am going to
run a new line to the rear of the car and leave the original plumbing
intact in case I later swap back to my Renault block (will cap the
ends to keep trash out).

This is the easiest solution, especially so close to Pigeon Forge.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 19:11:03 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)

Hi List,

First, thanks to everyone for their help to get my car up and 
running.  I would say that I've seen it all after what I've been 
through, but new/weird things keep showing up.

I only have one last problem to fix (an oxygen 
sensor/idling/hunting/CO problem – I'll get more into this
later).  I could drive the car now the way she is, but something is 
not right about the way she runs.

Let me start off by saying that I do not have any vacuum leaks (to 
the best of my knowledge - 99% sure).  Let's at least assume that 
there are no vacuum leaks.  This seems to be everyone's first 
response, if not at least one of their responses.

My car runs well.  She starts and holds an idle about 950.  I can't 
say that she is really running smooth, but she is not running badly.  
Let's start off with the history of the car... She sat for five 
years; Need I say more.  I took her into my home and adopted her.  
Fortunately, I had extra funds for her to consume.  (She didn't even 
run when I bought her, but the price was right.)  Now she starts, 
runs, and moves well.  The acceleration doesn't even seem to be 
affected by my problem.  I've replaced tons of parts; all have
tested bad.  I've seen everything from bad parts to bad wires. 
I've
even seen wires going to the wrong place (which resulted in a lot of 
swearing at the car).

I believe that all my parts in the lambda/idle system are working 
properly now (except the oxygen sensor; it is working, but not as it 
should be).  I have a wiring problem with my idle speed switch and 
vacuum advance, but they are currently hooked up (as the manual 
shows) temporarily by the use of jumpers.  My throttle plates are 
fully shut with no additional play or binding in the linkage.

My problem… she CAN run smoother once the oxygen sensor kicks in 
(after it `hunts' for a little bit), but she must be `in
the mood' in order to run the way I want her to.  I've
temporarily 
made an adjustment to the idling system.  I know this bothers many 
DeLorean owners, but it is what works for now to solve my problem.  I 
have replaced the idle speed motor with a manual valve, which allows 
me to adjust the air-flow without playing with the so-called 
brass "Forbidden Screws".  I originally had a problem with
the idle speed motor.  It wants to stay open all the way, even after 
replacing all the bad parts (except the ECU, which is the next step) 
and checking all the wires in the idle speed system (yes, I do 
believe there are no vacuum leaks).  I got her to run nicely by 
playing with the manual valve and disconnecting the oxygen sensor.  
She now idles around 950 RPM.

My oxygen sensor and lambda system is what's driving me nuts. 
After locating a bad ground on pin four of the lambda ECU and 
replacing the oxygen sensor, I finally got her to run the way she 
should be.  I start my car and use my manual valve to set the idle - 
no problems (except for the slight rich fuel mixture).  Then I give 
her some time to warm-up so the oxygen sensor kicks in.  Once the 
sensor kicks in, she hunts for a minute (varying up and down in 
speed) and then stays at the higher speed that sounds great!  Her 
idle jumps up to about 1400 RPM.  By using the manual valve, I can 
cut her idle back down to 950 RPM (this is with the valve all the way 
closed).  I assume that once I get my idle speed motor working 
correctly, it should do the same and cut back on the air-flow.

Problem solved!  I just need to cut the air back manually EVERYTIME 
when I want to drive her!  I could just fix my idle speed motor 
problem (which I'm really trying to avoid because I'm trying
to find a way to work around it so I will never have to use it).  
What about my oxygen sensor?  Well, it always reads at 1.8 volts (and 
it should be at 0.5 - 0.7 volts).  I can't figure out the answer
to 
this one yet (and I know it is simple, I just think my mind is fried 
from working on everything else on the car).  If it has a higher 
voltage than it should, does that mean it is getting too much oxygen, 
or too little?  I played with my CO adjustment screw and my air 
valve; nothing would change my reading on the oxygen sensor.  My only 
guess is that I have another bad wire somewhere (or ground).

As before, I said that I can now drive her; and I can do that 
successfully without adjusting the manual air valve.  I just unplug 
my oxygen sensor - no problem.  She runs a bit rich at 950 RPM, but 
not horrible (she doesn't try to die on me).  I don't think
driving her like this for short distances would hurt the engine at 
all, at least from what I see.  I do not plan on keeping her like 
this, but she really just needs to run after sitting a long time.

I have one last thought regarding the fuel distributor/pressure 
regulator.  I have receipts, from the previous owner, showing that a 
new fuel distributor was bought from a DeLorean vendor.  I'm
aware that you cannot just keep buying parts and expect the car to 
run better.  I haven't seen any postings regarding this issue,
but, I
was reading in the workshop manual learned that the pressure 
regulator could be adjusted.  If I increase the regulated pressure, 
would that let more fuel in or less fuel in?  If I could reduce the 
amount of fuel that goes into to engine without affecting the air 
(and I wouldn't need to cut back on the fuel that much), then I
think 
I could get my oxygen sensor to read the correct voltage.

If you read my problem this far, thanks very much, I know there is a 
lot.  I'm trying to list everything so you know my problem.  If
you 
have any input as to my problem, please send your information my way.

~Dan
VIN# 3817 – Born again.





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 16:05:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success

If you are having that much trouble with the left side bolt it is
probably bent and/or corroded into the sleeve inside the rubber
bushing. If you do manage to "turn" the bolt you may really be ripping
the sleeve loose inside the rubber. Your remedy may be to cut the bolt
up into pieces and remove the rubber bushing. You may be able to press
out the remaining piece from the sleeve. You might have to replace the
bushing, inspect it carefully after you get done beating on it. A
Sawzall works OK just try to stay away from the rubber. If you don't
have a Sawzall (reciprocating saw) you can do it with a hacksaw. It
just takes a lot longer. In may cases I was able to remove parts
easily with a pneumatic hammer that I just could not beat off with a
hammer no matter how hard I tried. Again, before you go wild, count
and measure the thickness of the shims. Even if you do count and
measure the shims it is a good idea to get a 4 wheel alignment anyway
when you are done. I recomend an alignment every 20 years or so (Ha Ha).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Group,
> 
> Yesterday I finally had the time to change my trailing arm bolts to 
> Toby-TAB's.  I am fortunate enough to have a mechanic's pit with a
lift at work, so i 
> had the best of both worlds.  unfortunately, i was only able to do 




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 19:05:23 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Original locking module: Really that bad?

Everyone seems to think the original door lock module is terrible and
will lock you in the car / destroy the solenoids / drain the battery.
My module didn't work correctly when I bought the car, turned out the
driver's lock solenoid was shot & shorting the entire circuit. I
rewound the solenoids, reconnected the lock module, and it all works
great now.

For the fun of it I took the lock module apart. Folks, this is a very
simple circuit. A few wires, couple of diodes and relays, not much
else. What's the problem with the circuit? Are we sure this is a
problem with the locking module and not simply the age of the
solenoids themselves? When they fail, they will short right back into
the lock module and cause problems. Seems to me that rewinding the
solenoids will restore them to new and prevent this problem from ever
occuring.

Is there something I'm missing?

-Ryan





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 21:43:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)

It still sounds to me like you could have a vacuum leak. Check the air
tube that feeds the idle motor from under the mixture unit. There is
an "O" ring that could be cut/missing/not sealing. Make sure the hole
over the mixture screw is plugged tightly. Replace the injector seals
and have the injectors cleaned. BTW it is OK to mess with the 3 brass
screws for testing and adjustment purposes. The point is not to run on
them if you are trying to set everything up properly. Doing so takes
authority away from the idle motor and it will not be able to control
the motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Hi List,
> 
> First, thanks to everyone for their help to get my car up and 
> running.  I would say that I've seen it all after what I've been 





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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 16:56:39 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: partial TAB success

I had the same problem and ended up getting a new trailing arm. I tried
EVERYTHING except heating the bolt with a torch.

After that I wrote an article for DeLorean World and my recommendation is to
grease the bolts before they are slid into the sleeves to prevent further
seizures.  Everyone should check their bolts for seizure and should consider
greasing the bolts as preventive maintenance.

Also ...When the bolt seizes, you can put as much torque on the nut as you
want but it still won't necessarily torque the trailing arm appropriately
since the load is not carried over to the other end of the bolt.

Good luck,

Nick

> Group,
>
> Yesterday I finally had the time to change my trailing arm bolts to
> Toby-TAB's.  I am fortunate enough to have a mechanic's pit with a
lift at work, so i
> had the best of both worlds.  unfortunately, i was only able to do
the
> passenger side bolt, which came apart rather easily.  the driver's
side bolt was a
> different story.  the nut came off fine enough, but that's as far
as i got.  i
> was unable to get the bolt to move even a millimeter!!  i put the
nut back on
> the threads and wacked it with a hammer about 200 times and even
put a 19mm
> socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe on the end (about
30" leverage) to
> try and turn the bolt.  i MIGHT have turned it about 1/2 a turn,
but it was
> inconclusive.  it was getting late so i finished the passenger side
and put
> everything else back together.
>
> What do i do to get the driver's side bolt out?  the passenger side
was a
> little rusty and was probably moderately bent.  i could see it bent
a little bit
> halfway down.  makes me want to REALLY get that driver's side out
now!
>
> Thanks for the tips -
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 18:31:02 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: partial TAB success

List,

With the bolt seized in, is there any way i can get the whole trailing arm 
out of the car to take to a machine shop or something?  does the bolt usually 
stick in the arm or the frame/bracket?

I was going to powdercoat my whole suspension this winter anyway.  maybe i'll 
just wait until then.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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