From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2017
Date: Saturday, May 15, 2004 3:03 AM

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Pigeon Forge Saturday PLEASE READ

2. Re: partial TAB success
From: "cruznmd" <>

3. RE: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23
From: "PJ Grady" <>

4. Coolant self-bleeder antics
From: "supermattthehero" <>

5. Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)
From: "supermattthehero" <>

6. Re: Re: quick question
From: "Lauren" <>

7. cooling problems
From: "Lauren" <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 18:44:03 -0400
Subject: Pigeon Forge Saturday PLEASE READ

Every show we take a group shot and it is usually at the end of the show. We take orders and  you get them later.

This time I am going to try something new.

The GROUP PHOTO will be at 12:30 PM at the Grand Hotel Convention Center at the stage.  We want to get more people in the picture so this is advance notice as to the time the photo will be taken.

You can order your photos during registrations.

They will be 16 x 20" and will cost $30 each. 

The main difference is that the first 20 or so will be delived that night at the show and the rest can be picked up in the morning or if you wish we can arrange mailing.

So you can have your photo at the show.

We are ordering 40 so it will be first come first serve for the 40.  There is no advance sale you may purchase them at registration or at the convention center during the photo time slot. (if we go over 40 the rest will be mailed.)

To see what a group picture looks like check at
Look for the Cleveland and Memphis panaramic photos.

This one is not a panaramic because it is inside.

So See you in Pigeon Forge and please don't miss the photo/



Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 01:47:20 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success


In case you missed my post, in February I snapped a TAB at 40 mph. 
That car turned me every which way but loose. I'm not trying to be an 
alarmist but don't drive it this way!

My symptoms were exactly as yours. Passenger side was cake. Driver's 
side wouldn't budge. The bolt was bent and rusted in place. Mostly 

A mechanic took a torch to the TA and pounded the remnant out. The TA 
can handle the heat. Just be careful. So sayeth Rob Grady. (Let it be 
written, let it be done. ;-))I called him for advice. I was very 

The TA comes out rather easily. Well..sorta. Cut the TAB and replace 
the bushing. Undo the brake line from clip on the TA. Undo the two 
bolts that bolt the TA to the rear hub carrier. Remove the TA.

I've done it once to dig out the TAB, and undone them twice from the 
carrier to replace my rear wheel bearings which were howling loud 
enough to compete with the stereo.

I hope this helps, and I hope some of the experts contradict me if 
I've given any unsafe advice here.

Rich A.

--- In, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> With the bolt seized in, is there any way i can get the whole 
trailing arm 
> out of the car to take to a machine shop or something?  does the 
bolt usually 
> stick in the arm or the frame/bracket?
> I was going to powdercoat my whole suspension this winter anyway.  
maybe i'll 
> just wait until then.
> Andy
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 20:17:21 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <>
Subject: RE: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23

Thank you Jeff for your generous invitation to attend the Disney Concours on
Sunday, May 23rd in Celebration, Florida. Debby and I are looking forward to
meeting with attending Delorean owners to help ensure a safe trip to Pigeon
Forge or wherever else their travels may find them this summer. Recently at
a tech session at our shop in New York I spotted a car that had a severely
kinked C.P. Regulator hose that possibly would not have made the five hour
trip back home without springing a fuel leak. That could have ruined that
person's day to say the least. I'll usually spot a few potential breakdowns
at these events and it gives me a certain satisfaction to think I may have
helped someone avoid an expensive or even dangerous failure. While I'll be
trying to do a good deed for the DeLorean community you could, likewise, be
doing the same for the Make-A-Wish Foundation with your
donation....everybody wins! 

There should also be some seriously fast and beautiful Ferrari's and such in
attendance if you're into cars (dumb question?). As a further enticement
I'll be handing out free tee shirts and 10% off vouchers (good for 60 days
on most parts - except Zillas and kits) IF YOU CONTACT US IN ADVANCE at with your Tee shirt size (Small thru XXL) and color
preference (Black or Grey) and we'll give you a confirmation number for your
10% off voucher and shirt. You must register with us (I'd like a head count)
and OWN a DeLorean to qualify for this offer. Even if you can't attend we'll
extend this offer to any DeLorean owner who sends us a $75- or more donation
made out to the Make-A-Wish Foundation. Please call (631)589-6224 or E-mail
us for details on this offer. Contact Jeff Ippoliti with any other questions
about this event. Sorry for the short notice but we didn't think we'd have
the time to attend until Jeff gently twisted our arm. Well travel
isn't exactly arm twisting! We hope to see you there!

Thank you,

Rob Grady
P.J. Grady Inc.,

-----Original Message-----
From: jeff512tr [] 
Sent: Friday, May 14, 2004 9:00 AM
Subject: [DML] ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23

As an added bonus and incentive to bring your Delorean out for the 
upcoming concours at Disney on May 23, DeLorean expert Rob Grady will 
be holding a free tech session for all DeLorean owners attending the 
event. Several topics will be covered, including:
-Preparing your car for Pigeon Forge
-Checking over your cars mechanicals before a long road trip
-Concours judging and preparation
-Question and answer session
This is an excellent opportunity to meet and speak with Rob, and have 
him look over your car before Pigeon Forge. A check out may help 
avoid a mechanical issue on the road, or uncover that extra concours 
point before the big show.
This exotic car concours is being held in Celebration, Florida, 
(right across from Disney) on May 23. Over 100 exotic cars are 
expected, and all proceeds benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation. Don't 
miss this fun councours event and Rob Grady Tech Session, go home 
with a beautiful concours trophy, and help these children with life 
threatening illnesses at the same time.
Information and registration can be found on line at
or by contacting me directly at or contacting 
Rob Grady.
Registration deadline has been extended to May 17! We have room for 8 
more DeLoreans!
Jeff Ippoliti

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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 02:01:31 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <>
Subject: Coolant self-bleeder antics

This isn't a problem anymore for me, but I wanted to share my 
experience installing the coolant self-bleeder and allow you folks 
to try and make sense of it.  
After I correctly installed the self-bleeder, I ran my car for 
awhile, and after 20 minutes I noticed a few things.  The first 
being that the temperature was 220 degrees, and the fans still had 
not kicked on.  The other is that my stainless header bottle was 
cool to the touch.  This I thought was very strange.  I shut it off 
in fear of overheating.  
Immediately I went back to the engine compartment, observing my 
header bottle was cool to the touch, so I twisted it open.  No 
coolant splashed out at me, but rather I heard a few seconds 
of "gurgling" noises.  With that, I screwed the cap back on and came 
back to the car a few hours later.  I started it and let it run, and 
this time my coolant bottle heated up normally, and my fans kicked 
on between 160 and 220 as usual.  I have not had the original 
problem since.  

So what the heck just happened here?  It seemed as though the 
coolant had "stopped up" in the engine, but after I opened the 
header bottle cap, it somehow opened back up again.  



Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 01:54:03 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <>
Subject: Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture (Long)

After recently dealing with a rich mixture problem myself, I have a 
few suggestions for you.

1.  Don't assume because it runs and accelerates that everything is 
fine.  If the previous owner was a real tinkerer, he/she could have 
very well masked all of the problems.  My previous owner did by 
playing with the brass screws and adjusting the mixture screw.  

2.  Pull the intake manifold and start from there.  It's blissful to 
assume you don't have vacuum leaks, but unfortunately there are so 
many places you can have them that it's totally not worth trying to 
find each one.  In other words, buy all new vacuum hoses, injector 
seals, intake manifold O-rings, check the pipe David T. mentioned, 
and order a new ported vacuum switch.  You really don't want to have 
to pull the intake manifold more than once every 23 years.  

3.  Get your idle speed motor working again, or get a new one.

4.  Adjust your mixture after you do all of the above.  If you did 
have any vacuum leaks, you'll now have an even more rich condition 
for sure.  Lean it out by turning the screw counter-clockwise, put 
the plug in, and then start it and see how she runs.  Repeat as 
necessary.  If you see black smoke and smell nasty exhaust, it's 
still running too rich.  If it dies after a period of time without 
blowing smoke, it's likely too lean.  

5.  After you get it to the point where it runs smoothly and the 
engine doesn't shake, pull all of your spark plugs and clean 'em 
up.  Running rich even for a short period of time will soot the hell 
out of them.  



Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 19:23:54 -0700
From: "Lauren" <>
Subject: Re: Re: quick question

Bill wrote:
> Don't forget that your coolant boils at nearly 280 degrees -- won't
> take long at those temperatures to warp their numerous mating
> surfaces.

Would it be safe to assume that if after the coolant spewed out the 
overflow and was replaced, the engine purred down the freeway at 
90 and normal temperature, that I haven't damaged it? 

> Your first order of business as a new owner should be to replace every
> hose in the cooling system. 

When I originally learned about the cooling issues I assumed that I 
would have to do that in the immediate future.  Our desert heat isn't 
kind during the summers.    Fortunately I have a mechanic  locally 
with Delorean experience who can assess the situation and I will 
pass along your recommendations to him. 
> Otherwise enjoy your ownership experience. 

I am!  Even if for now it means just looking at the car and knowing 
it's mine!!!  Yesterday I actually verbalized to no one in particular 
"Damn! That's gorgeous!"



Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 19:34:16 -0700
From: "Lauren" <>
Subject: cooling problems

Thanks, Jim.   My guess, based on the last two POs, is that they will 
need replaced.  Call it a strong hunch.   I bought the car assuming 

Speaking of the last POs, you all know Sean, but does anyone know 
of Adam?  He lived in San Diego and had the car seviced at Garden 

> I'm not convinced that replacing all the hoses is the appropriate
> action at this time.  I'd first find out why the engine was running
> hot. bad fan(s)? otterstat?  running too lean? air in the coolant
> system? coolant not mixed properly? plugged radiator fins? bad oil?

I think the coolant leak is a big factor.  And I suspect the fan circuit 
doesn't work and that's why Sean rigged a switch to control the 
fans.  He never checked the thermostat, but my guess is that it's 
bad, too.  I'll have the radiator fins checked certainly.  And it seems 
that  Sean only added water and not coolant after it got really hot 
when we test drove it.  

The problem seems worse on city streets.  I drove it around the 
block yesterday and it started to get really hot.  On the freeway with 
a good mix of coolant/water it did just fine.
> If you're going to torture the vehicle with elevated temperatures
> until the problem is resolved

oh no no no.   It's sitting parked in my backyard under a cover and 
will remain there 'til I can get it fixed properly - hopefully next week. 

I do have another question  - is there a difference between a 
thermostat and an otterstat?  

Thanks once again for your collective help.



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