From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2019
Date: Monday, May 17, 2004 2:41 AM

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: [DIMLY] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concourse May 23
From: service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com

2. Fun Queston Vin# near door
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>

4. Re: Tech Session w/Don Steger (Chicago)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: partial TAB success
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Re: quick question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Fixing holes in aluminum...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Anyone Have A Clutch Fork For Sale?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Re: Coolant self-bleeder antics
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

10. DMC Mid-Atlantic Club Spring Social Recap
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

11. Glove Box Bulb found
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Electric Fluctuations
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. [DIMLY] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concourse May 23
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>

14. Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

15. hissing aircon nob
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

16. Running Lights
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. fuel tank gummed up
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

18. Turn signals
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: partial TAB success
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 22:47:21 -0400
From: service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com
Subject: RE: [DIMLY] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concourse May 23

DML
I just registered online, for the car show Sunday 23 in Disney and my car's
definitely NOT a concourse quality car, also but would like to have the
chance to park
it next to some $250,00 cars to see if it stands out as much
if any other Delorean owners in FL area like to make the day trip please do
if not to meet Rob Grady
and go over your car
Just for a good cause and it would be nice to see a big Delorean group show
.

Ken Costa
#02700


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Harris [mailto:whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:32 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> As an added bonus and incentive to bring your Delorean out for the
> upcoming concours at Disney on May 23, DeLorean expert Rob Grady
will
> be holding a free tech session for all DeLorean owners attending
the
> event......
> Registration deadline has been extended to May 17! We have room for
8
> more DeLoreans!
> Jeff Ippoliti
> 20022


I just registered online, so you'll have at least one more there for
the show.  Mine's definitely NOT a concours quality car, but rather a
VERY well used daily driver with something well over 150,000 miles on
her (but showing much less, as the recently replaced angle drive had
been out for 12 years!)  Nevertheless, she's had a lot of fixing up
recently to bring her up to probably the best shape she's ever been
in over the 13 years I've had her, and this will be a good road trip
and rehearsal for the much longer drive up to Pigeon Forge next
month!  See you all there...

Dan Harris  VIN # 1662  FL Tag# MY 81DMC

          *****WhoCruiser_at_dml_aol.com is Dan Harris*****
WhoCruiser's Personal Home Page: http://members.aol.com/WhoCruiser
Read about The Sci-Fi Sea Cruise at: http://www.scificruise.com
Purr-use The Cat House at: http://members.aol.com/LookAtMyCatsPage




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links










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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 02:25:35 -0000
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fun Queston Vin# near door

I have been shopping for a Delorean, and looking at a lot of year 81- 
82(82 shows the most)DMC's.  Have any of you seen on your car that 
the vin stamp (near the door) is off margin [ ] 1 or 2 numbers??  Any 
factory story about that out there?  Or is it a silly goof? :)

Keep Living the dream..:)

CG





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 03:06:03 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Re: Running Problem-Rich Mixture

Hi Elvis,

I only replaced parts that were tested bad and didn't work.  The 
voltage was tested on 20v from oxygen sensor lead to a ground.  I 
think I am getting feed back because when the O2 sensor is 
disconnected, I get around .5v.  As for the vacuum leak, not sure.  
I've checked everything.  However, it only began after doing a tune-
up on her (spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, etc).  So my leak 
should not be hard to find.  One last question that could solve my 
problem.

How EXACTLY does the Idle Speed Motor work.  Does it read off the 
RPM?  Air Intake?  Temperature?  Where does it get its signal that it 
is opening up all the way?  Could a vacuum leak really open it that 
much?  I don't have to open the manual valve that much to get her 
running smoothly.  I checked all the wires and replaced everything in 
the Idle Speed system, except the ECU unit.  Which I am probably just 
going to spend the money.  I know these don't go bad often, but I 
think it's my last resort.  BTW, everything was bad in the Idle Speed 
system except the thermistor under the inlet manifold.  I just 
decided to replace it so I wouldn't have to pull the manifold off 
again (hopefully).  If I figure out exactly how the Idle Speed Motor 
works, (I'm having trouble figuring it out via the workshop manual) 
then I would be good to go.

Thanks again everyone... car is almost done.

~Dan
3817 - Born Again.
(Would I do it again... HECK YA!)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
> Dan,
> I don't understand why you don't wanna hook up the idle speed 
system.
> Don't listen to all those horror storys about that system because it
> works when the parts are ok. I told you before - check your wiring 
harness,
> maybe there's a broken wire or something.
> 
> For your O2 sensor - where and how do you measure the voltage ?
> What kind of tools do you use to measure it ?
> I know, stupid questions, but I've seen a lot of sh.. done by people
> who don't know anything about electricity.
> Try to unhook the O2 sensor and measure again. It's possible that 
the
> computer feeds a voltage back because something inside is damaged.
> 1.8V is really too much, I'm not sure if or how the sensor should
> produce that itself. From the theory of how a O2 sensor works it
> just can't be it, it must be the computer or your ground where you
> measure an offset due to a bad connection.
> 
> Please don't start to throw parts out of the car just because you 
think
> they will never work. They do work and most times it's really just a
> small and simple problem that needs some investigation.
> I heard of so many cars where the new owners pulled out up to 20m 
(60feet)
> of extra wires that a former owner installed because he didn't know
> anything about the car or because he thought he was smarter then the
> engineers who built and designed it. After pulling them out and 
setting
> everything how it belongs to - everything worked fine.
> I know you can do it better, you already put her back to live,
> the rest isn't that hard anymore.
> 
> Let me know if you need any electrical assistance or a good 
schematic.
> 
> Elvis & 6548
> 
> 
> 
> Problem solved!  I just need to cut the air back manually EVERYTIME
> when I want to drive her!  I could just fix my idle speed motor
> problem (which I'm really trying to avoid because I'm trying
> to find a way to work around it so I will never have to use it).
> What about my oxygen sensor?  Well, it always reads at 1.8 volts 
(and
> it should be at 0.5 - 0.7 volts).  I can't figure out the answer
> to
> this one yet (and I know it is simple, I just think my mind is fried
> from working on everything else on the car).  If it has a higher
> voltage than it should, does that mean it is getting too much 
oxygen,
> or too little?  I played with my CO adjustment screw and my air
> valve; nothing would change my reading on the oxygen sensor.  My 
only
> guess is that I have another bad wire somewhere (or ground).
> 
> 
> ~Dan
> VIN# 3817  Born again.




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 04:44:52 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Tech Session w/Don Steger (Chicago)

We had a great session today - after a week of rain it was nice to 
see the sun again, just in time. Don Steger was here and as usual 
tackled most of the tough stuff - Major project this time was 
replacing the windshield in Bryan Pearce's car. Yes - we had 1/2 the 
country's population of (running) stainless frame DeLoreans in the 
same garage. As promised I drove the just-completed automatic car to 
the session for everyone to look at. Don also spent a lot of time 
adjusting some door locks, did two tune-ups in record time, and as 
usual gave out a ton of free advice and inspections. I've never seen 
upper door seals changed that fast either. 

Marty Maier swapped out a tach and did a complete brake job for one 
of the newer club members. 

Ken Koncelic brought the raffle car back here from Ohio, and other 
than being a bit grubby from a couple of long trailer rides it's 
running good. I drove it back home from the tech session (about 50 
miles). Time to start using it for my go-to-work duty until the new 
owner gets it in PF. 

This seemed to be Trailing Arm day - Mark Valuch swapped his out 
uneventfully (other than having the worst looking bushing I've ever 
seen), and the Kuchans had to replace one entire trailing arm since 
they never did get the bolt out. Luckily we had a hacksaw and a spare 
trailing arm....

We also had two DeLorean Magazine publishers on-site, Ken (DeLorean 
Car Show Magazine) and Ron Wester (Gullwing Magazine). No truth to 
the rumor that they were throwing printer cartridges at each other.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Tomorrow Saturday May 15 is the DeLorean Midwest Club Tech session 
> with DON STEGER of DeLorean Motor Center. We'll be at it all day at 
> Neuqua Valley High School in Naperville IL, 95th street at Route 
59. 
> Contact me off-list if you need more info. We'll have a couple of 
> special attractions including the latest SS frame conversion. 





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 04:56:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success

Andy

As we discovered today, the "fix" was to knock the shims out, cut the 
training arm bolt with a hacksaw, unhook the brake line, remove the 
entire trailing arm from the car, heat it and beat on it for a while, 
curse a lot, and then give up and replace it. Yes, the whole arm. 
Luckily as DMC parts go the Trailing Arm is not all that expensive 
for a Big Heavy Metal Part. 

I'm going to try heating it with an acetelyne torch to see if I can 
salvage it, but it was sure a good thing that I had the spare one 
from the rolled car. (At the tech session we didn't have a real torch 
available). Although Marty tells me that they worked on one in the 
past that they ended up having to drill out with a Bridgeport mill.

BTW - which side of yours is stuck? I still have one from the 
passenger side here that looks like new. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> With the bolt seized in, is there any way i can get the whole 
trailing arm 
> out of the car to take to a machine shop or something?  does the 
bolt usually 
> stick in the arm or the frame/bracket?
> 
> I was going to powdercoat my whole suspension this winter anyway.  
maybe i'll 
> just wait until then.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 05:09:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: quick question

If you are spewing (dumping) coolant it could be that you are
overfilling the header bottle. The origional plastic one allowed you
to see the level and it has marks indicating low and high. When you
use the metal one you can no longer can see the level and it does not
have any markings indicating low and high. When the motor is cold (and
that is the only time you can safely remove the pressure cap and see
the level) the tank should be around 1/3 to 1/2 full. Fill with a
50/50 mixture of soft water and permanant type ethelyne glycol
anti-freeze (summer or winter). Never run on only water except to test
for leaks. Of course you will dump coolant if you overheat no matter
what you do with the level when cold. If the fans don't come on before
the temp gets too high then you could have a bad otterstadt switch and
maybe the circuit breaker should be changed. You can always turn on
the A/C, that should cause the fans to run.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> 
> Bill -
> 
> > OK -- This could be a horse of different color altogether:
> 
> coolant green, perhaps?





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 06:08:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Fixing holes in aluminum...

Have removed the intake manifold to find every recess full to the brim
with oil. This stuff is coming out under pressure...

Most likely area of damage is the plug closest to the timing chain
cover (other plug is TDC index access, not under pressure). I have no
idea what that plug is for. Factory literature does not address it. If
it is damaged, must be significant to allow water in by gravity alone.

All the other recesses are holding oil, so I don't think any of them
have holes after all. 

Recess with the plugs isn't holding oil, but it also has no lip on the
timing cover side (those are the rivers of oil I observed pouring put
by the water pump). Could have drained there, or could have drained
back into the block. Spent most of this afternoon diagnosing a clutch
problem (see other post) so I don't know yet. Didn't really know route
of oil galley until I got back to the house and looked it up.

If I can't engineer a carb onto my other block and get it into the car
before Pigeon Forge will try to patch this one.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I was just wondering if you could fix those holes in the top of the
engine 
> with "ALUMITE".  I found that it does a great job on aluminum and it
is very 
> easy to work with.  www.alumite.com
> 
> and NO I don't have a hole in my block, knock wood (or should that
be knock 
> aluminum).
> 
> Dave & 6530.
> 
> 
> "Just Say NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 06:29:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Anyone Have A Clutch Fork For Sale?

Does anyone on the List have an extra clutch fork for sale, or at
least the sheet metal piece pop riveted to it?

My latest clutch installation has failed. Worked excellently for a
couple of days, then started the following:
- Made a drumming sound like something hitting the fingers of the
pressure plate when the release bearing threw out
- Was hard re-engaging. Sometimes chattered

Clutch still released, but sounded terrible.

Pulled the transmission off the car AGAIN to discover that the sheet
metal piece pop riveted to the clutch fork (pivots on the bell housing
ball) has broken on one side. Is causing the release bearing to move
unevenly. Pressure plate fingers ARE impacting the clutch disc hub
now. Is reloading unevenly too, leading to rough shifts.

Seems silly to buy a surprisingly expensive new clutch fork just for
this sheet metal piece. Does anyone have a used fork with a non-rusty
piece for sale (or just the piece)?

Alternatively, has anyone ever made this piece themselves, or
engineered an alternative?

Bill Robertson
#5939




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 10:57:40 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Coolant self-bleeder antics





I have one of Rob Grady's metal triple core radiators in my car and prior to
installing it I put a petcock inline with the connection for that small
hose. It made things a little simpler when bleeding the system.

Bruce Benson

> You definately do have to loosen the small hose on >the top right side
> of the radiator to bleed the radiator. Just be VERY >GENTLE  with it.
> If you still have the origional radiator with the plastic >tank the
> nipple is VERY EASY  to break off. > David >Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 09:34:08 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: DMC Mid-Atlantic Club Spring Social Recap

For those of you interested in the Mid-Atlantic Club's Spring Social,
the web page is finally done (sorry it took so long!)
You can see details here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm


Thanks!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 03:31:48 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Glove Box Bulb found

I just replaced my burnt out glove box bulb with the following Radio
Shack part: 272-1134.  It lights up.

That bulb is described on the packaging as 14 volts, 200mA, and as a
bulb #1487.  Brightness is listed as 1.4MSCP.  It looks about as
bright as regular glove box illumination.  Average life is 30 hours. 
Package of 2 is $1.50.

Hope this helps those looking for a cross reference instead of
replacing the whole roughly $8 assembly just for a blown bulb.

If someone who knows a lot about the electrics sees something wrong
with this, please do post a follow up explaining if / why this is
wrong.




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 08:39:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Electric Fluctuations

Last night I took my Delorean out and while driving the A/C goes off and on as well as the radio and the A/C panel lights seems to be all at the same time?  It registers at about 10 amps with all the lights, wipers , A/C on. 
Is this normal, I don't think so and will a new maxi-brute or similar Alt. fix this problem? 
You can hear all the relays CLICKING AWAY in rear behind the pax. seat.
Could this be my Alt. it is an after market Cadillac Alt.?  But only 2-3 years old, and less than 10K on it. 



		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:01:42 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: [DIMLY] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concourse May 23

Hello Ken and Dan
Thank you for registering for the event! We should have a strong 
showing of DeLoreans. I am hoping we can beat the Pantera club (10 
cars)! We have 6 so far!
Even if your car is not a "concours" car, everyone loves to see the 
DeLoreans and it will be a fun time for a good cause (Make-A-Wish), 
plus the opportunity to have your car looked over by Rob Grady.
We still have room for more DeLoreans, so please make the trip over 
to Celebration, Florida, and enjoy this beautiful waterside Disney 
village and over 100 super exotic cars next Sunday May 23. 
Register on-line at www.celebrationexoticcars.com
See you there!
Jeff Ippoliti
20022










--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, service_at_dml_t... wrote:
> DML
> I just registered online, for the car show Sunday 23 in Disney and 
my car's
> definitely NOT a concourse quality car, also but would like to have 
the
> chance to park
> it next to some $250,00 cars to see if it stands out as much
> if any other Delorean owners in FL area like to make the day trip 
please do
> if not to meet Rob Grady
> and go over your car
> Just for a good cause and it would be nice to see a big Delorean 
group show
> .
> 
> Ken Costa
> #02700
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Harris [mailto:whocruiser_at_dml_a...]
> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:32 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: ROB GRADY TECH SESSION at Disney Concours May 23
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> > As an added bonus and incentive to bring your Delorean out for the
> > upcoming concours at Disney on May 23, DeLorean expert Rob Grady
> will
> > be holding a free tech session for all DeLorean owners attending
> the
> > event......
> > Registration deadline has been extended to May 17! We have room 
for
> 8
> > more DeLoreans!
> > Jeff Ippoliti
> > 20022
> 
> 
> I just registered online, so you'll have at least one more there for
> the show.  Mine's definitely NOT a concours quality car, but rather 
a
> VERY well used daily driver with something well over 150,000 miles 
on
> her (but showing much less, as the recently replaced angle drive had
> been out for 12 years!)  Nevertheless, she's had a lot of fixing up
> recently to bring her up to probably the best shape she's ever been
> in over the 13 years I've had her, and this will be a good road trip
> and rehearsal for the much longer drive up to Pigeon Forge next
> month!  See you all there...
> 
> Dan Harris  VIN # 1662  FL Tag# MY 81DMC
> 
>           *****WhoCruiser_at_dml_a... is Dan Harris*****
> WhoCruiser's Personal Home Page: http://members.aol.com/WhoCruiser
> Read about The Sci-Fi Sea Cruise at: http://www.scificruise.com
> Purr-use The Cat House at: http://members.aol.com/LookAtMyCatsPage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 00:45:23 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?


Dave, you're right, the relays are the problem of the door lock module.
But not because they are underrated but because of the relay driving
circuit.

But with the breakdown of the insulation and shorting you're wrong !
Try to understand the circuit and you'll believe me.
And if the inductivity is a problem - why not install some supression diodes
?

The module itself isn't that bad. Replace the old relays and you're
fine. (The new ones have larger contacts, too.)
I did this 2 years ago and I use my car a lot(I modified about 10 modules
so far and none had failed yet ). I have remote locks and remote door
openers installed. No problem so far. No Zilla needed.

$200 or less and you have a complete alarm system installed with
pager, power locks and door openers. No big deal at all.

Elvis & 6548


 The main problem with the origional door lock module is
the relay contacts are way to small for the current and there is no
arc suppression circuitry to disspate the inductive load when the
contacts open. This causes the load to be dissapated in the solenoids
themselves which leads to the breakdown of insulation causing the
shorting of the coils inside. The problem isn't the door solenoids, it
is the locking module.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Everyone seems to think the original door lock module is terrible and
> will lock you in the car / destroy the solenoids / drain the battery.
> My module didn't work correctly when I bought the car, turned out the
> driver's lock solenoid was shot & shorting the entire circuit. I
> rewound the solenoids, reconnected the lock module, and it all works
> great now.
>
>




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 23:05:00 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: hissing aircon nob

hi my aircon worked fine until recently but now iv notice when iv 
turned the nob around to the o position it continully hisses,it 
normally hissed only when i turned it from one setting to the next 
then it would stop.just wondering if anyone had any ideas on problem 
and easyest {permanent)fix

thanks in advance simon




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 22:30:17 -0000
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Running Lights

Does anybody have or know where I could get good wiring diagram for 
the running lights?  The manual I have doesn't break it down very 
good, more general like.  Reverse lights, brake lights work, just 
running lights all around do not work.
Newbe vin #5705




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 21:01:15 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: fuel tank gummed up

Hello all, I tried to start my D for the first time in 5 years 
yesterday. The previous owner had it stored for the last 10 years 
and started it once in that time 5 years ago. Problem is everyting 
is operating correctly except the fuel pump. It has power and earth 
etc but does not operate so i removed the pump to observe a layer of 
gum/disolved rubber on the bottom of the tank. The rubber boot on 
the pump and the internal hoses disovled in a black tar like 
substance on my hands. Hence this has blocked the pump etc.... My 
question is has anybody experienced this before and does this 
generally spread right through the system ie.. divider head etc... 
Havent yet remover any part of the fuel system but the car did start 
birefly on aerostart with the pump disconnected after building up 
oil preasure. Are there any other problems i can expect after this 
long, valve stem seals? ??? ? The car has 17000 miles on it. 

thanks Nick  10927




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 19:58:07 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turn signals

Hey all,

I'm having a weird problem with my flashers. All four bulbs work and 
illuminate as they should at the right intervals with the hazards 
on. When indicating right, the bulbs come on and off at correct 
intervals, but when indicating left the left side bulbs flash at the 
rapid interval that I believe usually indicates a burned out bulb, 
however both front and rear bulbs flash. I don't know that much 
about turn signals, but I've jiggled the relay around some with no 
effect, and I have no idea what I should look at from there. Thanks 
for any help,

Dave
#5968




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 19:15:38 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: partial TAB success

In a message dated 5/16/04 11:52:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


> Andy
> 
> As we discovered today, the "fix" was to knock the shims out, cut the 
> training arm bolt with a hacksaw, unhook the brake line, remove the 
> entire trailing arm from the car, heat it and beat on it for a while, 
> curse a lot, and then give up and replace it. Yes, the whole arm. 
> Luckily as DMC parts go the Trailing Arm is not all that expensive 
> for a Big Heavy Metal Part. 

Dave,

That sounds easy enough but what about the piece of the bolt that is stuck in 
the frame still?  how will that come out?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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