From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2020
Date: Monday, May 17, 2004 11:13 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Electric Fluctuations
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Turn signals
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

3. Re: partial TAB success
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. Delo in FL
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: hissing aircon nob
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: fuel tank gummed up
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Turn signals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Running Lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: hissing aircon nob
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Matching Black DYE for the Leather Seats?
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: partial TAB success
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Vendors please read DCS Pigeon Forge
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. Door problem
From: John Hicks <johnzd81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Electric Fluctuations
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

16. Re: Electric Fluctuations
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. RE: Re: squeaking front brakes
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

18. RE: Turn signals
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

19. RE: Matching Black DYE for the Leather Seats?
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

20. Cincy Tech Session recap, and Fascia Update
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

21. Re: Running Lights
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. How many of us are in the Bay Area (Ca)?
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

23. N. Y. Times Article
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Gas Prices (WAS: Disney)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: How many of us are in the Bay Area (Ca)?
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 16:42:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Fluctuations

10 AMPS while driving, power windows work fine, already checked ALL fuses.
I noticed the A/C shuts on and off periodically with no other load on the cars, TODAY (i.e no lights or radio or wipers on). if the radio is on, that may shut off and come back on
So maybe it's a A/C fuses relayed problem?????
ANY SUGGESTIONS THANKS ALL!!!

Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Did your power windows go out as well? This happened
to me once; it turned out to just be a loose/replaced
fuse. Check that first =P.

Jeremiah


--- John Podlewski wrote:
> Last night I took my Delorean out and while driving
> the A/C goes off and on as well as the radio and the
> A/C panel lights seems to be all at the same time? 
> It registers at about 10 amps with all the lights,
> wipers , A/C on. 
> Is this normal, I don't think so and will a new
> maxi-brute or similar Alt. fix this problem? 
> You can hear all the relays CLICKING AWAY in rear
> behind the pax. seat.
> Could this be my Alt. it is an after market Cadillac
> Alt.? But only 2-3 years old, and less than 10K on
> it. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
> 
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 00:31:25 -0000
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signals

The reason a burned out bulb will cause the a rapid flashing has to 
do with the way the relay works (Part #100708). It is like flashing 
Christmas tree lights. When a certain amount of current is flowing, a 
bi-metal strip in the relay will heat up and curl away from the 
contact which disengages the circuit. When it cools down, the metal 
straightens out again, current flows and the process begins again. 
When a bulb is burned out there is less resistance to the flow of 
current which causes the metal strip to heat up quicker so you get 
the faster flashing.

Having said that the problem is either in the flasher relay or there 
is less resistance in the circuit that it was designed for. It could 
be something as simple as the wrong bulb(s).

Mike Walsh
#17084




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 01:10:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success

Are you talking about the TAB or one of the small bolts that hold the 
bushing in place? If you've snapped one of those things it gets a lot 
more interesting. Since there's no room to get a drill and tap in 
there.....

If you mean the other end of the TAB, it will come out with the 
bushing. The end we had trouble with here was the bold being frozen 
into the trailing arm. They ended up replacing the arm.

Let me know. 

Dave


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 5/16/04 11:52:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> swingle_at_dml_d... writes:
> 
> 
> > Andy
> > 
> > As we discovered today, the "fix" was to knock the shims out, cut 
the 
> > training arm bolt with a hacksaw, unhook the brake line, remove 
the 
> > entire trailing arm from the car, heat it and beat on it for a 
while, 
> > curse a lot, and then give up and replace it. Yes, the whole arm. 
> > Luckily as DMC parts go the Trailing Arm is not all that 
expensive 
> > for a Big Heavy Metal Part. 
> 
> Dave,
> 
> That sounds easy enough but what about the piece of the bolt that 
is stuck in 
> the frame still?  how will that come out?
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:31:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delo in FL

If anyone on the list was at the Dry Dock Restaurant
on Longboat Key, FL Saturday night may 15...please
contact me off the list at
stevetrimble52(at)yahoo.com.
Thanks,
Steve T


	
		
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 02:52:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?

I agree that if you are handy there are things you can do with the
origional module. Many owners are not and the easiest thing for them
to install is the Lockzilla. I still believe it is the inductive load
that is the cause of the relay being under capacity. When the contacts
open all the power in the solenoids has nowhere to go except to arc
the contacts in the relay or stay contained within the solenoid
breaking down the insulation. Once the coil gets shorted turns now it
draws even more current when the relay contacts close. Oversizing the
relay contacts only covers the symptom, the ultimate fix is to have
circuitry that can "dump" the power in the load (coils). Lockzilla
seems to be a good fix. Anyway we both agree that the origional door
lock module is dangerous unless modified or replaced. My recomendation
to all owners is to disconnect it until you can afford to do something
with it to avoid damaging the solenoids. Once the solenoids are
damaged they must be replaced or rewound no matter what you eventually
do with the locking module. Even Lockzilla can't help you with shorted
door solenoids.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> Dave, you're right, the relays are the problem of the door lock module.
> But not because they are underrated but because of the relay driving
> circuit.
> 
> But with the breakdown of the insulation and shorting you're wrong !
> Try to understand the circuit and you'll believe me.





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 03:03:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hissing aircon nob

Go to dmcnews.com, technical. Look in the archives on how to rebuild
the mode switch. There have also been many articles in several of the
Delorean magazines on how-to. You can also get the instructions from
one of the venders when you order a new rubber diaphram.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "simonsays10002003"
<simonsays10002003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> hi my aircon worked fine until recently but now iv notice when iv 
> turned the nob around to the o position it continully hisses,it 
> normally hissed only when i turned it from one setting to the next 
> then it would stop.just wondering if anyone had any ideas on problem 
> and easyest {permanent)fix
> 
> thanks in advance simon




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 02:58:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: fuel tank gummed up

Replace ALL the rubber parts around the pump. If you can't get the
pump going replace it too. Remove all the gas and wipe the tank out
with acetone. Use all appropriate safety precautions. Dispose of all
refuse properly. Once you can get the system running replace the fuel
filter and have the injectors cleaned and tested. You can expect to
rebuild the clutch (if 5-speed) all the brakes and master cylinder,
ALL the coolant hoses and water pump, ALL the vacuum hoses, and a
complete tune-up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hello all, I tried to start my D for the first time in 5 years 
> yesterday. The previous owner had it stored for the last 10 years 
> and started it once in that time 5 years ago. Problem is everyting 
> is operating correctly except the fuel pump. It has power and earth 
> etc but does not operate so i removed the pump to observe a layer of 





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 03:00:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turn signals

Remove and check all the bulbs on the left side. I am guessing one of
them is the wrong type or installed incorrectly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> I'm having a weird problem with my flashers. All four bulbs work and 
> illuminate as they should at the right intervals with the hazards 
> on. When indicating right, the bulbs come on and off at correct 
> intervals, but when indicating left the left side bulbs flash at the 
> rapid interval that I believe usually indicates a burned out bulb, 
> however both front and rear bulbs flash. I don't know that much 
> about turn signals, but I've jiggled the relay around some with no 
> effect, and I have no idea what I should look at from there. Thanks 
> for any help,
> 
> Dave
> #5968




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 04:47:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Running Lights

Driver and passenger sides are on two different circuits:

Driver side - very straight forward. Takes off from Fuse #2. Splits to
front/rear of the car. At front and rear further splits to side/end
bulbs. Red/Black is wire color.

Passenger side -- this is where things get wierd. Shares Fuse #8 with
a bunch of other devices (still rated 10A however). Runs from the
block to a wire junction under the console, where it then splits 5
ways. Two of those go to front/rear of the car. At front and rear
further splits to side/end bulbs. Red/Orange is wire color.

Print a copy of this wiring diagram and its legend:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/wiringdiag2.jpg
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/wiringlegend.jpg
Buy a little something while you're there...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Vanilla Thunder"
<vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Does anybody have or know where I could get good wiring diagram for 
> the running lights?  The manual I have doesn't break it down very 
> good, more general like.  Reverse lights, brake lights work, just 
> running lights all around do not work.
> Newbe vin #5705




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 05:05:44 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hissing aircon nob

Sounds like your mode switch has dried out. Look in the tech section 
on how to remove, relube, and reinstall it. If too dry you can buy a 
new one from Grady or Houston.


Joe

2524 & 16634




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "simonsays10002003" 
<simonsays10002003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> hi my aircon worked fine until recently but now iv notice when iv 
> turned the nob around to the o position it continully hisses,it 
> normally hissed only when i turned it from one setting to the next 
> then it would stop.just wondering if anyone had any ideas on 
problem 
> and easyest {permanent)fix
> 
> thanks in advance simon




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 05:09:34 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Matching Black DYE for the Leather Seats?

I just came across a set of Delorean seats in great shape with the 
exception of a few small spots where the raw leather is showing. 
What would be a good color match dye to use on the black leather? 
The rest of the seat is soft, and dark black still. Looking for a 
recommended brand or color number if it is known. Would be great to 
dye the few spots to have the seats as spares.

Thanks for your advice


Joseph O'Brien

2524 & 16634







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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 05:08:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: partial TAB success

Ball joint press or a big C clamp. Use a 7/16" bolt as the drift and a
3/4" socket as the receiver, deep well if necessary.

I had to press out one of mine. Didn't cut it -- just squeezed the
bolt through until it was flush with the trailing arm, then used a
drift until capacity of the C clamp was reached. Pulled it the rest of
the way through by levering the head with a pair of pliers against a
block of wood against the frame.

Bill Robertson
#5939 

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
>
> Dave,
> 
> That sounds easy enough but what about the piece of the bolt that is
stuck in 
> the frame still?  how will that come out?
> 
> Andy
> 
> >In a message dated 5/16/04 11:52:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> >swingle_at_dml_d... writes:
> >
> > Andy
> > 
> > As we discovered today, the "fix" was to knock the shims out, cut the 
> > training arm bolt with a hacksaw, unhook the brake line, remove the 
> > entire trailing arm from the car, heat it and beat on it for a while, 
> > curse a lot, and then give up and replace it. Yes, the whole arm. 
> > Luckily as DMC parts go the Trailing Arm is not all that expensive 
> > for a Big Heavy Metal Part. 





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 07:48:45 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Vendors please read DCS Pigeon Forge

AS you know each year we have the vendors Fair and the Raffle

As a vendor  you do not have to pay anything for a booth and there is some 
power available in wall units so I think we can accommodate all your needs.

There is no cost per table and ya may have more than one if you need it.

Set up will be Saturday Morning anytime after 9:am and unlike other shows you 
may keep it set up until evening but be sure you are down by 10PM.

The trade show offically ends at 5:00 but you do not have to break down and  
you may sell later into the evening if you wish. Please be courteous of others 
during the teardown time.

I will not be providing table covers since the parts are sometimes oily and 
they only have cloth covers so BYOC if you want one.

I would like to get a count of vendors if I could because we may be up to 30 
believe it or not.

We also do a raffle on Saturday and any help you can be on that would be 
appreciated.  This year only one Raffle on Saturday night
I may have a silent auction on Friday for a few select items so if you want 
to be in on that as well thats fine if not that is OK as well.  Please feel 
free to advertise your products by putting your name on them or attach a card or 
something.
You are also free to give the product away on stage as we call the numbers.  
The raffle will be done by vendor if we can keep it straight.

This is one of the hardest things for me to keep straight so any help is 
appreciated.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 05:32:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Hicks <johnzd81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door problem

Hi again,
     Thanks to all for the advice.  I worked for a couple hours on this Saturday, I ended up dismantling the door from the inside.  That was fun!  LOL  (I have bruises in the oddest places today!)
     The end result, the solenoid was totally seized up, after I removed it, the door popped with no trouble at all.  I'll be rewiring that solenoid, and the drivers door one as well, using the procedure from the Vixen project.  
 
Thank you all again, I really REALLY wish there was a DeLorean club here in Michigan.

		
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 14:19:53 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Electric Fluctuations


10 AMPS ?
Are you sure you're talking about Amps instead of Volts ?

Is this what your volt meter in the dash reads ?
How long has it been like this ? Did you drive the car for a few 
miles or a longer distance ?

What dou you read directly measured on the battery ? if it is below 12.5V or
so(motor running), then your battery is not being charged anymore - your car
will brake down the next few miles !
If it reads about 13.8V - then your volt meter in the dash has a problem -
or a fuse, wiring....but the car will run.

What we had before was a loose wire on the alternator, the big fat brown one
!
If not - is the battery light in the dash on ? or at least slightly glowing
?
Then your brushes in the alternator may be worn and need to be replaced.

Elvis & 6548

> 10 AMPS while driving, power windows work fine, already checked ALL fuses.
> I noticed the A/C shuts on and off periodically with no other load on the
> cars, TODAY (i.e no lights or radio or wipers on). if the radio is on,
that
> may shut off and come back on
> So maybe it's a A/C fuses relayed problem?????
> ANY SUGGESTIONS THANKS ALL!!!

-- 
"Sie haben neue Mails!" - Die GMX Toolbar informiert Sie beim Surfen!
Jetzt aktivieren unter http://www.gmx.net/info




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 14:06:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Fluctuations

Just clean every electrical connection you can find. This includes all
points where wires are attached to the frame (ground). Pull each fuse
and make sure it is clean, still good, and the correct size for the
location. Upgrade the 2 circuit breakers and the relays. The A/C
compressor is supposed to cycle, not the fan. You probably have a
problem with the circuit breaker to it. Call your favorite vender and
order the fuse box upgrade kit. It consists of some relays and the 2
circuit breakers.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 10 AMPS while driving, power windows work fine, already checked ALL
fuses.





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:21:00 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Re: squeaking front brakes

I have to concur with what David said. If scuffing the pads does not solve
the problem, check the calipers. My front right side had a stuck piston and
was beyond repair. I replaced them with ones from a 76 Mercury Capri.

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 1:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: squeaking front brakes

The "standard" cure is to "break the glaze" on the rotors with some
sandpaper, roughen up the surface of the pads, install new anti-squeal
(damping) shims, use anti-squeal compound on the backside of the pads,
clean the pins and mounting hardware for the caliper. It could also be
that you do not have the correct brake pads. If the car is not used
often the brakes will squeak for a while when you do drive it. Another
possability is if you do a lot of hard braking and panic stops you
will glaze up the brakes. Refer to L:03:01 para 5.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> my front brakes have been squeaking quite a bit lately when i am
stopping.  
> what can i do to quiet them down?  the brakes are about 10K miles
old, and do 
> not look very worn.  there are no grooves in my discs.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:17:59 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Turn signals

Dave,

This seemingly unusual problem is not all that uncommon on DeLoreans. I have
seen this problem dozens of times in the course of road testing different
cars. Almost invariably the problem can be traced to corrosion in the front
T/S bulb sockets which can be cleaned with a Dremel tool with a wire brush
or a shot of glass bead.

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: usndmc [mailto:usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 3:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Turn signals

Hey all,

I'm having a weird problem with my flashers. All four bulbs work and 
illuminate as they should at the right intervals with the hazards 
on. When indicating right, the bulbs come on and off at correct 
intervals, but when indicating left the left side bulbs flash at the 
rapid interval that I believe usually indicates a burned out bulb, 
however both front and rear bulbs flash. I don't know that much 
about turn signals, but I've jiggled the relay around some with no 
effect, and I have no idea what I should look at from there. Thanks 
for any help,

Dave
#5968




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:24:33 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Matching Black DYE for the Leather Seats?

I have a black interior and I've had good success with shoe polish. I didn't
use it on the seat for fear of ruining my clothes, but everywhere else it
worked great.

-----Original Message-----
From: joeyoseppijoe [mailto:joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 10:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Matching Black DYE for the Leather Seats?

I just came across a set of Delorean seats in great shape with the 
exception of a few small spots where the raw leather is showing. 
What would be a good color match dye to use on the black leather? 
The rest of the seat is soft, and dark black still. Looking for a 
recommended brand or color number if it is known. Would be great to 
dye the few spots to have the seats as spares.

Thanks for your advice


Joseph O'Brien

2524 & 16634







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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 11:25:19 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Cincy Tech Session recap, and Fascia Update

Hey Gang,

Well we had a pretty nice turn out in Cincinnati this past Saturday for 
our tech session as well.  The rain hampered our efforts a little in the 
morning hours, but after noon we had the opportunity to get down and 
dirty and do a body/frame seperation on one of the parts cars.  Gave 
everybody the opportunity to see our cars from an angle that you don't 
often get to see...and we all took a close look at what frame rust can 
do!  Pictures will be published in the next issue of DCS magazine, along 
with a brief follow-up.

Next time, we'll have to find some cars that need work to come, as 
everyone who showed up had perfectly running, very nice examples!

As far as the fascia painting goes...well...another weekend, another 
delay.  Our paint components didn't arrive in time to do the planned 
painting on Sunday, so now it has to wait until next week.  They did 
finally show up this morning, early, so we should be all systems go for 
this coming weekend.  I apologize to those of you who have waited so 
long for one, or a pair, but I think you'll find that the wait will be 
well worth it!

Thanks, and e-mail me off list if you would like to know more about the 
fascias.  (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net)

-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 3951
VIN 11289 (parts)
VIN 10236 (parts)






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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:33:05 -0000
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Running Lights

Thanks for the prints!  After looking at them, I believe all roads 
lead back to the light switch.  The headlights work, but on the 
first detent: the dash lights, license plate lights, engine 
compartment, trunk compartment and running lights never come on.  
And all fuses are good.  Yes, I will be buying from him in the 
future.  He's my local Delorean parts man.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Driver and passenger sides are on two different circuits:
> 
> Driver side - very straight forward. Takes off from Fuse #2. 
Splits to
> front/rear of the car. At front and rear further splits to side/end
> bulbs. Red/Black is wire color.
> 
> Passenger side -- this is where things get wierd. Shares Fuse #8 
with
> a bunch of other devices (still rated 10A however). Runs from the
> block to a wire junction under the console, where it then splits 5
> ways. Two of those go to front/rear of the car. At front and rear
> further splits to side/end bulbs. Red/Orange is wire color.
> 
> Print a copy of this wiring diagram and its legend:
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/wiringdiag2.jpg
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/wiringlegend.jpg
> Buy a little something while you're there...
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Vanilla Thunder"
> <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Does anybody have or know where I could get good wiring diagram 
for 
> > the running lights?  The manual I have doesn't break it down 
very 
> > good, more general like.  Reverse lights, brake lights work, 
just 
> > running lights all around do not work.
> > Newbe vin #5705



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:31:19 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: How many of us are in the Bay Area (Ca)?

In all my travels around here (San Jose/SF) I've probably seen only 2 
other D's on the road over time. Since I bought VIN 3231 in March, 
I've yet to see *any* other D's out on the road around here. Are 
there any other Bay Area people on this list?

-Sean




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:43:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: N. Y. Times Article

This past Sunday there was a nice article on Lotus. It gave some of
the history of Lotus and a short reference to JZD and the Delorean. It
also mentioned the missing money from JZD to Colin Chapman. It was in
the Auomobiles section. If anyone is interested.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:03:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Gas Prices (WAS: Disney)

I'd use any excuse in the world to go to Disney... 
But has anyone looked at the gas prices recently?

gas is above $1.90 a gallon (Regular) here in NJ.. 
Can anyone report on fuel prices between here and
Pigeon Forge?  

--- jeff512tr <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
> Hello Ken and Dan
> Thank you for registering for the event! We should
> have a strong 
> showing of DeLoreans. I am hoping we can beat the
> Pantera club (10 
> cars)! We have 6 so far!
> Even if your car is not a "concours" car, everyone
> loves to see the 
> DeLoreans and it will be a fun time for a good cause
> (Make-A-Wish), 
<SNIP>


	
		
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Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 16:09:23 -0000
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: How many of us are in the Bay Area (Ca)?

Hi Sean,

I am in south bay, and I drove my D to work everyday.  I have only see another D in south 
bay area.

rendy 4220

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> In all my travels around here (San Jose/SF) I've probably seen only 2 
> other D's on the road over time. Since I bought VIN 3231 in March, 
> I've yet to see *any* other D's out on the road around here. Are 
> there any other Bay Area people on this list?
> 
> -Sean




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