From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2035
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 5:36 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Performance Suspension by Eibach now available
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

2. RE: Clutch Pedal
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

3. Re: RHD steering rack
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. Fanzilla
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

5. Re: Clutch Pedal
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Fuel boot
From: "vanisland03" <vjca_at_dml_telus.net>

7. Re: Updated DMC VIN list and related materials uploaded
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Re: Clutch Pedal
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

9. Re: hydraulic clutch will not go in gear
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Parking Lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Got an Alignment !
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Switch Key
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: AC R134a Retrofit Kit
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Clutch Pedal
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Re: Passenger-side keylock is jammed
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Hazard bulb
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

17. slipping latch
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. DeLorean Plant Machinery
From: David Doglay <daviddoglay_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

19. The PRV-6 to Northstar Transfer
From: "dennydmc12" <dennydmc12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Parking Lights
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Updated DMC VIN list and related materials uploaded
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

22. Re: Clutch Pedal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: hydraulic clutch will not go in gear
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Re: Clutch Pedal
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Got an Alignment !
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 15:50:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Performance Suspension by Eibach now available

On Mon, 24 May 2004, James Espey wrote:

> The new Eibach front and rear spring set for the DeLorean has arrived at
> DMC (Texas).

Hi James.  What are you recommending for people wishing to replace both 
shocks and springs?  I know you guys have your own performance 
shock/spring set.  Have these Eibach springs been tested with the 
performance shocks you sell?

-andrew



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 16:54:16 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Clutch Pedal

Try bleeding your clutch line. Sounds like you have air pockets stuck on
there.

-----Original Message-----
From: vtdmc [mailto:wmack_at_dml_vt.edu] 
Subject: [DML] Clutch Pedal


Sometimes I have my left foot just resting on the clutch pedal, no 
pressure but just resting on it.  I have noticed recently and has 
caused me some alarm, that the clutch pedal just goes straight to the 
floor, without the clutch disengaging.



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 21:03:04 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RHD steering rack

thanks, Martin cant believe i missed the most obvious thing! Has 
anybody then ever had the original rack modified to suit if at all 
possible? or what is the best solution. I have enquired about the 
bedford rack but seem to be in very short supplys here and if i can 
get one does the frame need modifying to make it fit?

thanks Nick 10927


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> That will make left right, and right left.



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 20:10:42 -0000
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Fanzilla

I just heard there is a shortage of Fanzillas and I can't find a 
vendor that has one. Pigeon Forge is coming and I would like to have 
one installed before the long drive. Does anyone have one they are 
willing to part with?

Mike
#17084 




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 21:39:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal

Two possibilities:

1) Fluid is squishing past the piston, in which case you should see it
in the driver footwell (cylinder protrudes into the passenger compartment)
2) Reservior stopper is bent, broken or otherwise allowing fluid to
squish back into it, in which case you should see it on the underside
of the rubber cover (shoots out the breather hole in the reservoir cap)

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes I have my left foot just resting on the clutch pedal, no 
> pressure but just resting on it.  I have noticed recently and has 
> caused me some alarm, that the clutch pedal just goes straight to the 
> floor, without the clutch disengaging.  



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 22:59:43 -0000
From: "vanisland03" <vjca_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel boot


> HI;
I found on mine that the fitting on top of the fuel pump where the 
banjo fitting goes on was broken in the threads. No mater how tight I 
tightened it it still leaked and could smell gas. Might be a thought 
to check that out.
>Vic
Vin#1794




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 18:06:36 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Updated DMC VIN list and related materials uploaded

Knut,

Really nice work there.    I assume this info is in a database.     One 
question I have is how many DeLoreans are MIA?

I know a few years ago a number of Delorean clubs requested lists of D 
owners in there states.  (Can't do this any more because of anti 
stauking laws.)

Have these lists ever been made available to you?   It might help get 
more info on the MIA cars.

Look at all the project D's that have come to light in the last few 
years.   Are there thousands or hundreds of these still out there?
I know one D was  parted out by a guy in northern Illinois.  Don't know 
what the VIN was..  

He might still be on the list.   I wonder how many parted out Ds there 
have been?

Or wrecked Ds?    How, many were burned up like 31??  that I used to own.

BOB




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 23:45:30 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal

Willie - I hope that you take this advice in the spirit in which it 
is offered ... get rid of your habit of riding the clutch pedal!  
Even with very slight pressure, you are causing the throw-out bearing 
to ride against the clutch pressure plate diaphram at all times.  It 
is supposed to contact only during clutch operation.  This constant 
contact will wear out the bearing, clutch fork, and cause wear and 
galling on the fingers of the diaphram.  If the clutch pedal 
has "fallen away", you have a failure in one of the components, or a 
leak that has caused you to lose all of the fluid.  The entire system 
should be checked for signs of leakage.  If signs are found, the 
affected components should be replaced.  The main locations where 
you'll find fluid from a leak are in you driver's side floor mat and 
carpet (leaking master cylinder), the top of the skid plate (leaking 
reservoir or feed hose), top of the transmission (leaking slave 
cylinder), or anywhere along the clutch tube if you haven't replaced 
the stock plastic tube with a stainless steel line.  Good luck, and 
please let the List know what you have found.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes I have my left foot just resting on the clutch pedal, no 
> pressure but just resting on it.  I have noticed recently and has 
> caused me some alarm, that the clutch pedal just goes straight to 
the floor, without the clutch disengaging. Any reason for the the 
clutch pedal to lose pressure and just fall to the floor?





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 00:27:39 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: hydraulic clutch will not go in gear

The clutch and braking systems are 2 different systems. There is a
brake reservoir under the large flat panel under the trunk carpet-has
a large hole with a rubber cap so you can check your fluid level for
the brakes. The clutch reservoir is located next to the fuel filler,
check the level is your first step. If it is low, fill it up and bleed
the system. Then look for leaks, if it is empty to begin with- theres
definitly a leak somewhere. Your slave cylinder may be toast if it is
original equipment. If it does not go in gear and the clutch pedal is
soft, it is definitly hydrulic related. Dan Benedek VIN#5003




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 01:12:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Lights

See Message #41420.

I will be in Arlington County June 12-16, caravaning to Pigeon Forge
with a couple of Maryland owners thereafter. Contact me off List if
you'd like to get together: brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Master plan is to re-engine my DeLo with a carbureted PRV before then
(current block with fuel injected heads has a hole in the upper oil
galley). Time is tight but project may work nevertheless...

Oh, internal illumination bulb has no bearing on the circuit except to
generate a lot of heat and potentially melt the switch, setting the
car on fire. See pic of my switch in #5939's photo album. DMC
engineering flaw -- fuses come AFTER the headlight master switch (but
BEFORE the hazard switch. Go figure).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> I have noticed that my right side parking lights are out.  The left 
> side is still working as is my headlights and brake lights.  I have 
> checked the fuse panel but everything is fine.  Also I have noticed 
> that the light that is inside the headlight button has recently 
> burned out.  Could that be the problem or is it some other electrical 
> gremlin?
> 
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> 
> Maserati Service Advisor
> Maserati of Washington
> Dulles, Virginia
> www.fwash.com




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 00:44:04 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Got an Alignment !

After replacing all the sway bar bushings, and adding a shim to the 
left side swaybar/lower control arm connection, the front caster is 
greatly improved. With the new caster numbers les schwab okayed my 
car for alignment. Here are my new numbers:

> Front (all in degrees):
> 
> Left camber: -0.2           Right camber: -0.4
> Left caster: 3.7            Right caster: 3.2  
> Left toe   : 0.23           Right toe   : 0.23
> 
> Rear (degrees):
> 
> Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
> Left toe   : 0.28           Right toe   : 0.25

Previous results:

> Front (all in degrees):
> 
> Left camber: -0.1           Right camber: -0.3
> Left caster: 4.3            Right caster: 2.6  
> Left toe   : .20            Right toe   : .20
> 
> Rear (degrees):
> 
> Left Camber: -1.2           Right camber: -1.0 
> Left toe   : 0.42           Right toe   : -0.07

The thrust angle was 0.25, and is now 0.01, pretty good. What we 
found on the rear was strange. The right wheel which was too far toed 
out had 6 shims on the TA bolt(from previous owner). The left side 
had only two shims. We removed two shims from the right and added one 
of them to the left; now there's 4 on the right, 3 on the left.

I helped the technician as much as I could and observed all the work 
done to the car. I told him about the 55 ft/lbs on the TA bolt and we 
found that both bolts were under torqued. It took minimal force to 
loosen them up for adjustment. Sadly we were still unable to properly 
torque the bolts when we were done. We could not fit the torque 
wrench between the underbody and over the bolt. We just used regular 
wrenches and tightened them up real good. I know how bad it is to not 
torque them properly, but it is still an improvement over how they 
were.. 

Does anyone have any tricks on torquing the TA bolts? I tried all 
sorts of different length sockets but none would fit. 
> 
> thanks for everyone's advice so far and for answering my crazy 
questions!
> Adam 




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 19:20:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Switch Key

Are there any sources for replacements for the lighted
switch key? I have the key but the insides are gone.
Thanks,
Steve T


	
		
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 02:51:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC R134a Retrofit Kit

You will need to remove as much old mineral oil as you possibly can 
by flushing the system - preferably a component at a time and then 
replace the accumulator - and orifice tube while you are there. The 
proper measure of new oil is critical - there is a lot of hose in 
the D system which requires a little extra oil but about 10 oz is 
the max in a clean system including the 1 oz in the compressor - 
actually the stickers on some compressors call for 1 cubic inch of 
oil which equals .554112 oz - I use 1 oz. (according to Four 
Seasons - too little oil is the most common reason for failure of 
compressors for replacements and retrofits). If your system does not 
have a high side pressure switch you should probably install one. 
Many do not but 134 runs at higher pressures and possible damage can 
occur. The DeLorean cooling fans out front do a minimal job of air 
flow at slow speeds adding to the high-pressure risk. The charge 
should be about 90 percent of the recommended R12 charge of 2.2 or 
2.5lb depending on which manual/bulletin you believe (2.2lb) is my 
preference (I use R12).

The modern recommended way to check for a proper refrigerant charge 
in an ac system (R12 or R134) these days is measuring the 
temperature delta between the evaporator outlet pipe and the inlet 
pipe with full load on the system with all components appearing to 
be operate normally. With 80 degrees ambient air temp, doors open, 
engine at idle speed, fan on high, mode switch on max - check the 
temps. No easy task to get to piping however, but can be 
accomplished from inside the car at the bulk-head if you're flexible 
enough. Evaporator outlet temp more than 5 degrees above inlet temp 
equal low charge. Outlet temp 5 degrees below inlet temp indicates 
an over charge. The ideal temp delta is zero.

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 20:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal

I always learned it is bad to rest your foot on the
clutch.. 

Leak in the Master or Slave cylinder.. Does the clutch
work at all?


--- vtdmc <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes I have my left foot just resting on the
> clutch pedal, no 
> pressure but just resting on it.  I have noticed
> recently and has 
> caused me some alarm, that the clutch pedal just
> goes straight to the 
> floor, without the clutch disengaging.  



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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 20:30:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Passenger-side keylock is jammed

Buy a new lock from your vendor and take it and a key
to any locksmith.
They should be able to rekey it for about $50...
Certainly less than a $100.
If you get stuck, I may be able to help. I may not
have all the right wafers, but I can probably get it
done.
-Kevin


--- supermattthehero <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote:
> Update: 
> 
> After fussing with the passenger keylock all day, I
> got tired of it and put my screwdriver and pliars to work.........
> What are my options here?  Is there any chance I can
> get a new passenger lock that can be made to fit with my
> current key?  Could I switch back to the 2-key system and remove the
> driver-side lock as well?  



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 07:48:33 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Hazard bulb

My hazard light switch bulb is now defunct, does anyone know the spec of a
new one?

Thanks in advance

Chris H




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 20:49:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: slipping latch

On a recent long drive, the first in ages, I had the
displeasure of the driver's door rear latch slipping.
It would actually ease up a fraction of an inch and I
suspect if the front did not hold it, swing up on me
in transit. It was not extremely bouncy, and in fact
never could tie the event to bumps or anything
extreme. Just a half-hour or hour driving and schwoosh
it goes.
Scary, indeed, at 80+ mph.
My outer door seals are a little thrashed, so I
suppose that they might not be sealing quite so good
on the door. Could that be enough looseness to allow
this?
With the door shut I can push down on the door a
little and make it momentarily go down a little.
Should I adjust the rear pin?

Thanks, 
Kevin


	
		
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 11:32:56 +0100 (BST)
From: David Doglay <daviddoglay_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: DeLorean Plant Machinery

Does any one no who made the machines that were used to make the deloreans and how much they cost


DAVID DOGLAY



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 12:54:17 -0000
From: "dennydmc12" <dennydmc12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The PRV-6 to Northstar Transfer

Due to the severly underpowered PRV-6 stock engine there has been 
many engine transplants that have been performed to see how well the 
Delorean performs overall with that particular engine, I recently 
heard that it is possible to install the 32valve northstar V8 found 
in many models of the the Caddillac line up, Is there any truth to 
the success of this transfer?




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 13:44:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Lights

Check the headlight switch. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> I have noticed that my right side parking lights are out.  The left 
> side is still working as is my headlights and brake lights.  I have 
> checked the fuse panel but everything is fine.  Also I have noticed 
> that the light that is inside the headlight button has recently 
> burned out.  Could that be the problem or is it some other electrical 
> gremlin?
> 
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> 
> Maserati Service Advisor
> Maserati of Washington
> Dulles, Virginia
> www.fwash.com




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 08:33:55 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Updated DMC VIN list and related materials uploaded

I see that my VIN (3488) has been added to the list.  However it lists AR as
the state (previous owner).  I submitted my info several weeks ago to the
list.  I'm in Norfolk, NE.  All of the other details are correct.  Just
wanted keep things up to date.

Thanks,
Jason Judt
VIN 3488


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: [DML] Updated DMC VIN list and related materials uploaded


> An updated DMC production chronology has been uploaded to the
> DMCNews web site.



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 13:46:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal

Read the archives. You will probably need to replace the clutch master
and slave cylinders and the line between them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 19757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes I have my left foot just resting on the clutch pedal, no 
> pressure but just resting on it.  I have noticed recently and has 
> caused me some alarm, that the clutch pedal just goes straight to the 
> floor, without the clutch disengaging.  
> Any reason for the the clutch pedal to lose pressure and just fall to 
> the floor?
> 
> Thanks
> Willie
> Vin 5043
> 
> 
> Maserati Service Advisor
> Maserati of Washington
> Dulles, Virginia
> www.fwash.com




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 14:15:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hydraulic clutch will not go in gear

We seem to have a bunch of people with clutch issues. Generally when
you have trouble with the clutch it is becasue the fluid was not
changed every 2 years as required. The old brake fluid corrodes the
inside of the system eventually causing it to leak. The other problem
is the origional hydraulic line. It is plastic and when it gets hot it
will expand reducing the throw (movement) of the slave cylinder. The
fix is to replace it with a braided line. It is always good practice
to replace both master and slave cylinders at the same time on the
logic if the fluid could wreck 1 the other is nearly gone too. You
could convert to DOT 5 but it it is slightly compressable because you
can't get ALL the air out of it. This will reduce the travel on the
slave cylinder too. The best advice is to stay with Castrol GTLMA DOT
4. You just have to flush it out every 2 years. Same deal with the
brakes. The brake system and the clutch system are each separate and
distinct. There is no connection between. By the time you get
everything apart, send the parts out to be sleeved, reassemble and
install you would be better of just getting rebuilt parts and getting
credit for your old cores.
 Another problem you may face is if the car was driven much on a bad
clutch it was forced in and out of the gears. This can cause a roll
pin inside the transmission be be damaged. This means you now have to
remove the trans and reseal it while replacing the roll pin. 
  On your particular car you can see that even though it only has 800
miles it has 20 + years on it and many things deteriorate with age.
Bleeding isn't the problem with these systems. The problem is the
corrosion inside the cylinders that wrecks the seals causing them to
leak. No matter what way you flush and bleed the systems the damage is
done. The cylinders are pittted and the pistons are corroded and the
plating on them is flaking off. You can expect the brakes to cause you
problems too. Your best course of action it to just pull the clutch
AND brake systems apart and rebuild or replace everything. The brakes
are even more important than the clutch. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> What are my first steps? The car has about 800 miles on it, took a
small 
> ride this Saturday and upon arrival I backed in a space and the
gears ground 
> as I went in reverse. Came out jumped in the car started up, but the 




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 07:23:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Clutch Pedal

Both of my DeLoreans have been equipped with the "dead
pedal" and I wouldn't be without it for resting the
left foot, especialloy on the type of long drives that
I do.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867  



	
		
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 10:06:04 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Got an Alignment !

You can buy both open end and tube nut wrench heads that have square holes
for attaching to ratchet wrenches and torque wrenches. Try Sears or NAPA.

Bruce Benson

> Does anyone have any tricks on torquing the TA bolts? I tried all
> sorts of different length sockets but none would fit.
> >
> > thanks for everyone's advice so far and for answering my crazy
> questions!
> > Adam




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