From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2052
Date: Sunday, June 06, 2004 6:16 PM

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Vent holes?
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: inner door seal installation
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Future DCS Venues?
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Caravan from the Northeast
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

5. I NEED A RIDE!!!
From: "d_car_show_ride" <d_car_show_ride_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. For those who seek Hoverboards...
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Vent holes?
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Concours Contest at Pigeon Forge
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

9. Re: Rear view mirror
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

10. Separating the bellhousing from engine
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

11. Engine misfiring
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Header Bottle Cap
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

13. Corey S. - contact me. =)
From: "composerphacia" <ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Rear view mirror
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. RE: Header Bottle Cap
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Engine misfiring
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. RE: Engine misfiring
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Engine misfiring
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

19. Re: Future DCS Venues?
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. VIN #1490 in distress?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

23. horns
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 03:18:48 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Vent holes?

These can't leak water at all, they are part of the rear fender and
don't lead anywhere. Behind them is the fiberglass body. There really
is no purpose, except for looks. Picture your car without them...looks
kinda odd-maybe because we are just so used to them. -Dan Benedek VIN5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> What are the two holes in the body for(the ones right behind each 
> rear speaker)? I see no purpose for them at all except a place for 
> water to come in and ruin the interior. It would make sence if the 
> two long black vents on both body panels were flipped then they would 
> scoop air up and force it into the car while driving but the way they 
> are positioned all they are doing is defecting air. So what are they 
> actually for?
> 
> Jason
> 2256




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 03:26:06 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: inner door seal installation

What I did was took the old seal off, rotated it and reinstalled it so
the rips were elsewere-preferably on the bottom of the door opening.
This allows you to work with rubber that isn't cracked. Then you can
close the door and see exaclty where its rubbing. I then shaved the
fiberglass with a sharp razor blade...but take much caution in doing
this. Shave a little bit off at a time and see how the rubber does
when you close the door-once everything looks as if it will not rub on
the metal, you are all set for new seals without the threat of
damaging them since you already tested on the old one. Also make sure
the door headlining isn't sticking out past the metal enough to rub
and wear out the rubber. Lastly, make sure the headlining material
does not go up and over the lip underneith the rubber, if it does-cut
it so it doesn't. Dan Benedek VIN#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> My final project before PF is to replace my inner door seals.  they
are torn 
> in the upper front corner at the ends of the windshield (which is
where 
> apparently most cars have this problem).  i am replacing both doors'
seals.  how do 
> i prep the car so my new seals won't rip like the old ones?  i heard
something 
> about grinding down the edges but i am unsure which edges to grind,
how to 
> grind it, or how much to grind.
> 
> anyone with previous experience, please help me out!
> 
> thanks!
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 04:12:04 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Future DCS Venues?

Did I say Pigeon Ford?
Sorry, I meant Pigeon Forge..
Anyway, let's work on one out west!
Dale Funk
4984


>From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Future DCS Venues?
>Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 20:25:05 +0000
>
>Hey!
>I would love to see an event out west.
>I would love to go to Pigeon Ford, but being self employed I can't get 
>away.
>I live in Washington State.. Let's do one here..  I'll help do it.
>Eastern Washington where it's easy to find a lot of space and the weather 
>is
>great..
>Wine Country.
>I'm really sorry I can't go to this one!
>
>
> >From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [DML] Future DCS Venues?
> >Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 00:11:08 EDT
> >
> >In a message dated 6/3/2004 7:10:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net writes:
> >Woo-Hoo! Grenadine shooters for all!
> >I prefer Lake Erie Highballs nothing stronger at one point.
>
>[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 13:35:48 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Caravan from the Northeast

For those interested.  I had a few emails about a northeast caravan.  Tentative plan from this area is as follows.  A few of us will be meeting up at the Steak and Ale Restaurant PArking Lot, by the intersection of Route 70 and 
I-295 in Cherry Hill, N.J. on Wednesday June 16th.  We will be meeting there at 7:30 am and probably driving straight through or at least close.  It is the same meeting point as we did for those who met us there for the drive to Knoxville on the way to Memphis.  Anyone who is interested in meeting there, or catching up with us along the way that day, email me privately and I will get a list together and update as we get closer.

Gary Gore
Vice President
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 14:53:40 -0000
From: "d_car_show_ride" <d_car_show_ride_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: I NEED A RIDE!!!

Hello list.  Good to be back on.  My name is Mike A. and I used to 
write a year or so ago as mikesdelorean.  I have talked to many of 
you and have loved the group and the much help and answers you have 
givin this enthusiast.

The reason for my writing is I am looking for some help in getting 
to Pigeon Forge.  I understand that I'm a little late on the gun, 
but wanted to try anyway.  I live in Savannah, GA and two years ago, 
there were a couple of people that had space in Excursions (sp?) and 
the such.  Time constraints got in the way though.  If there is 
anyone passing through the area and would like some extra company, 
please email me at d_car_show_ride_at_dml_yahoo.com.  If you could give me 
a figure on what the show and events would cost as well, I would be 
most greatful.  I look forward to seeing you guys. Take care and 
keep driving stainless.

With much thanx,

-Mike




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 13:33:13 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: For those who seek Hoverboards...

Hey all, 
     With car show season approaching, I know some people like to follow the 
whole BTTF theme.   A guy I know makes really accurate replica Hoverboards 
(non working of course   :) ), and currently has 4 for sale.   He puts a few on 
eBay every now and then, but will also sell them directly to you.   If you want 
more information or pictures of what he has for sale, email 
Jackgs90_at_dml_yahoo.com   

No I am not being paid to say this, I got a Hoverboard from him myself and 
was blown away by the detailed work.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 19:45:23 -0000
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vent holes?

They are there to release cabin air pressure.  If they were not the 
doors would almost never close right, due to inside pressure.  Check 
any car on the road, thay all have them.

Stephane

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> What are the two holes in the body for(the ones right behind each 
> rear speaker)? I see no purpose for them at all except a place for 
> water to come in and ruin the interior. It would make sence if the 
> two long black vents on both body panels were flipped then they 
would 
> scoop air up and force it into the car while driving but the way 
they 
> are positioned all they are doing is defecting air. So what are 
they 
> actually for?
> 
> Jason
> 2256




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 14:50:48 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Concours Contest at Pigeon Forge

     There are still openings for Concours cars at the Pigeon Forge car
show. If you have the desire to be in the Concours but have not
registered, or have not received an email confirming your entry in the
Concours, contact me and/or Ken Koncelik IMMEDIATELY.

Millennium, the DeLorean Concours is the standard for judging the
DeLorean automobiles for correctness as per the intent of the designer,
engineers and factory.

The DeLorean Motor Company created the Millennium standard for judging
DeLorean automobiles in the summer of 1999. Using memorandums, purchase
orders, telexes, part and service bulletins and other documents from the
original DeLorean Motor Company, the most comprehensive Judging Manual
in the history of DeLorean car shows was written. After the first event
in St. Louis in October of 1999, the manual has been constantly revised
with the assistance of the judges.

Prospective competitors are encouraged to download and review the manual
prior to the event - judging sheets are also included to facilitate
"pre-judging" of cars. The latest revision of the manual can be found
at:
http://millenniumconcours.com/

A discussion forum for competitors, prospective competitors and other
interested persons is available at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/millennium-concours

Ken Montgomery
Head Judge - Pigeon Forge

=======================================================
Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/
mailto:kenm(at)csus.edu
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory(at)dmcnews.com
=======================================================
 



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 14:57:07 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Re: Rear view mirror

I have a used mirror.  In order to use it, what type of adhesive is used?

Is there any problem in having a windshield shop stick it on like they do
for other cars?

Please advise me.

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
VIN 6667





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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 23:43:09 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Separating the bellhousing from engine

I've removed the 4 bolts which I thought were responsible for holding 
the bellhousing to the engine, however, they are still attached.  I'm 
not exactly thrilled about the idea of prodding around in there with 
a crowbar, so would anyone like to tell me how these two can come 
apart?  As far as I see, this, and the stiff brake servo line are the 
only things holding the engine in the car right now.  I do have it 
supported with a hoist.

thanks,
Matt
#1604 - likely the only VIN ever to have its engine pulled while 
replacing the oxygen sensor.




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 00:18:07 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Engine misfiring

It seems whenever it is raining hard, my engine starts to misfire and
lack power. It will misfire at idle, and then move to misfiring only
upon hard acceleration. This morning it was fine, but on my way home
after work I had to accelerate hard and fast to pass someone who was
going 30 and decided to go 60 while I was passing-After a few miles or
so I noticed the missing. I'm not sure if it was because of the rain,
or perhaps I damaged something? I have noticed several times that the
engine misses on bad rainy days. I made sure all the spark wires were
still in place and checked for loose wires here and there. Nothing
unusual was found... Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys -Dan
B. VIN#5003




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 02:53:07 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Header Bottle Cap

Does anyone know if a 16-pound vented cap is ok for the DeLorean?

Johnny
5518




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 01:21:54 -0000
From: "composerphacia" <ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Corey S. - contact me. =)

Corey S. (#1902), this is Will Fries.  I've sent you quite a few e-
mails within the past week or so, and I haven't heard anything back 
from you.  Please let me know whether or not you're still interested 
in selling to me.  You may contact me on or off the list.

Thanks much!  :)

Regards,
William F.




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 03:57:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rear view mirror

You MUST get the special double-stick tape from one of the Delorean
venders to attach the mirror. If you glue it directly onto the glass
it will break the glass. I guess you could also get it from one of the
glass places but just don't glue the mirror directly onto the glass.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I have a used mirror.  In order to use it, what type of adhesive is
used?
> 
> Is there any problem in having a windshield shop stick it on like
they do
> for other cars?
> 
> Please advise me.
> 
> Roland Smith
> Oakland, California
> VIN 6667




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 23:08:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Header Bottle Cap

Yes, It will work but it's not correct. Delorean uses a 15LB.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: thebrave65 [mailto:johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 8:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Header Bottle Cap


> Does anyone know if a 16-pound vented cap is ok for the DeLorean?
> 
> Johnny
> 5518



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 04:02:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring

It could be a bad wire that was strectched or maybe they are just old.
It could also be a bad, worn, old, or cracked distributer cap and/or
rotor. My suggestion is, if the parts are old, to just replace the
cap, rotor, spark plugs, and ignition wires. I would also check the
timing and make sure the mechanical and vacuum advance is working.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> It seems whenever it is raining hard, my engine starts to misfire and
> lack power. It will misfire at idle, and then move to misfiring only
> upon hard acceleration. This morning it was fine, but on my way home
> after work I had to accelerate hard and fast to pass someone who was
> going 30 and decided to go 60 while I was passing-After a few miles or
> so I noticed the missing. I'm not sure if it was because of the rain,
> or perhaps I damaged something? I have noticed several times that the
> engine misses on bad rainy days. I made sure all the spark wires were
> still in place and checked for loose wires here and there. Nothing
> unusual was found... Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys -Dan
> B. VIN#5003




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 23:10:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Engine misfiring

Dan, Look for water in the spark plug wells and if none is there then
condensation is in the distributor cap.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: TalksToGod [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 6:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine misfiring


> It seems whenever it is raining hard, my engine starts to misfire and
> lack power. It will misfire at idle, and then move to misfiring only
> upon hard acceleration. This morning it was fine, but on my way home
> after work I had to accelerate hard and fast to pass someone who was
> going 30 and decided to go 60 while I was passing-After a few miles or
> so I noticed the missing. I'm not sure if it was because of the rain,
> or perhaps I damaged something? I have noticed several times that the
> engine misses on bad rainy days. I made sure all the spark wires were
> still in place and checked for loose wires here and there. Nothing
> unusual was found... Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys -Dan
> B. VIN#5003



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 04:43:41 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring

Sounds like the typical water in the spark plug wells.  Not uncommon 
when the engine gets wet.  Might think about replacing your wires 
with new ones from one of the vendors.  Best to get the right ones.

Johnny
5518


> It seems whenever it is raining hard, my engine starts to misfire 
and
> lack power. It will misfire at idle, and then move to misfiring 
only
> upon hard acceleration. This morning it was fine, but on my way 
home
> after work I had to accelerate hard and fast to pass someone who 
was
> going 30 and decided to go 60 while I was passing-After a few 
miles or
> so I noticed the missing. I'm not sure if it was because of the 
rain,
> or perhaps I damaged something? I have noticed several times that 
the
> engine misses on bad rainy days. I made sure all the spark wires 
were
> still in place and checked for loose wires here and there. Nothing
> unusual was found... Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys -
Dan
> B. VIN#5003




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 08:00:20 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Future DCS Venues?

Maybe we can get Ken Montgomery to do one 
the one he had in Califonia a few years back was real nice

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 18:43:38 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: VIN #1490 in distress?

Yesterday I sighted VIN #1490 (I believe) at the Annapolis Naval 
Academy, in the commisary parking lot. Gas flap, Ital side-stripe etc.

I noted the front tires were flat. If you're on the list and need 
help email me off-list.

Sincerely,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 04:58:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine

Remove them still attached. Is 1000 times easier to mate the
transmission sitting on the floor. Trust me -- I've done it both ways.
I'll never replace a clutch with the engine in the car again. 

My new engine (transmission attached) has been in and out of the car
no fewer than 5 times as I struggled with motor mount issues --
Dourvin changed location and angle of the mounts sometime during 1985
model year. It's really quite easy if you tear the back end down to
the foam rubber bumper (too bad that piece doesn't unbolt too!). I
left the clutch hydraulics intact and simply flipped them out of the way. 

A person who lurks the List pointed out recently that I've mentioned
very little Re: my engine swap. Have been too unbelievably busy with
it! Was all set to bolt it up Thursday when I encountered the motor
mount problem. Spent 2 days engineering a solution (manufactured for
me by the guys at the diesel shop from a piece of rail car. It is
hands down the strongest part of my vehicle now). This afternoon I
*FINALLY* began reassembly. That's when I discovered the French had
totally packed my cooling system with some substance resembling soap.
Was EVERYWHERE: inside the water pump, in the coolant distribution
pipe, and throughout the water jacket. Took me several hours to dig
and flush it out. I guess it's supposed to dissolve, but as long as it
took me to get rid of it my brand new engine would have been melted first!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
> I've removed the 4 bolts which I thought were responsible for holding 
> the bellhousing to the engine, however, they are still attached.  I'm 
> not exactly thrilled about the idea of prodding around in there with 
> a crowbar, so would anyone like to tell me how these two can come 
> apart?  As far as I see, this, and the stiff brake servo line are the 
> only things holding the engine in the car right now.  I do have it 
> supported with a hoist.
> 
> thanks,
> Matt
> #1604 - likely the only VIN ever to have its engine pulled while 
> replacing the oxygen sensor.




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 19:32:03 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine

UPDATE:  

I got the engine out.  The flywheel covers were basically holding it 
into place.  (Thanks Bill Robertson).  After I got those out, along 
with the catalytic converter, all I had to do was shake 'er up a 
little and she came loose.  Now the fun begins.  
   I thought I should mention I did this without jack stands, ramps, 
or a lift.  The only "big" tool I had was an engine hoist.  This 
might give hope to some of you guys who think you need $10,000 worth 
of equipment to pull an engine successfully.
   Would anyone be interested in seeing pictures of how the 
crankcase broke where the motor mounts attach?  Kinda scary.  
   I'm really going to streamline my engine bay now that the engine 
is out, including using wire loom, fixing all the frame rust around 
the rear crossmember, powdercoating all non-rustproof metal parts, 
bondo'ing all the pinholes in the fiberglass, and do some other 
organizational things that will make the car easier to work on in 
the future.  Does anyone in the U.S. sell the cat bypass pipes?  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> I've removed the 4 bolts which I thought were responsible for 
holding 
> the bellhousing to the engine, however, they are still attached.  
I'm 
> not exactly thrilled about the idea of prodding around in there 
with 
> a crowbar, so would anyone like to tell me how these two can come 
> apart?  As far as I see, this, and the stiff brake servo line are 
the 
> only things holding the engine in the car right now.  I do have it 
> supported with a hoist.
> 
> thanks,
> Matt
> #1604 - likely the only VIN ever to have its engine pulled while 
> replacing the oxygen sensor.




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 16:49:46 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: horns

List,

One of my horns doesn't work - the low note one.  can i hook each one up 
directly to a battery with jumpers to see if the horn is broken or not?  I don't 
have the original horns so the wiring diagram doesn't do me much good.

if not, how can i test each horn with a meter or something to see if it is 
broken?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


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