From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2053
Date: Monday, June 07, 2004 5:08 PM

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. axle clunk
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. RE: horns
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. RE: Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

5. Re: horns
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

6. Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Re: Vent holes?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. Vendors and Support (volunteers)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

9. weird problem (electrical)
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: Is anyone going to Pigeon Forge from Oklahoma Area?
From: "Adam, Adam Lee, Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. DUA600 = Ducellier?
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

13. Re: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Re: Exhaust (Cat Bypass Pipes)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. RE: Future DCS Venues?
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

17. Re: weird problem (electrical)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: Vent holes?
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

20. Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re Broken engine mounts ( was "my car wants me to hate it")
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Re: axle clunk
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

23. Re: Re: Vent holes?
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 20:10:41 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: axle clunk

List,

it has been awhile since i've heard a rear clunk on my car but it seems to be 
back.  after searching the archives i noticed that a lot of people suggested 
re-lubricating the rear axles with some teflon spray.  however, i had my axles 
apart last year and did the whole boot/grease thing.  when i reach under the 
car, i can move the axles back and forth and they definitely clunk when 
hitting on the tire side.  this might not even be the problem, but what else can i 
do to eliminate the axles as suspect?  it sure sound like they are causing it 
(won't clunk twice in a row on the same turn).

i have also checked my trailing arms for tightness/missing shims and 
tightened down the body bolts on the seat belts, rear sway brace in engine bay, and 
trunk located bolts.  didn't pull the carpet down to do the others or the hard 
pontoon ones.  everything was quite snug anyway.  i also removed everything 
from my trunk including the jack.  

it still clunks.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 23:38:14 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

Here is some updates on the problem-The engine only misses at
1,000-3,000RPM Driving only. When the car is sitting and it is reved
up and held, it doesn't miss at any RPM. Brand new 8MM wires were
installed a few months ago with MSD hot coil, as well as spark plugs
(+4s) and vacuum advance. Checked all the plugs, everything looked
fine. No water was in the wells. Made sure all the wires were
installed completely on the plug. Checked the vacuum advance, and also
the solenoid (ticked when I unhooked electical plug with ign on). Made
sure my idle motor switch was working. Motor sounds changed when I
pulled the throttle with the ign on and engine off so I assume it is
fine. Everything check out okay. Only misfires beyond 1/3~1/2
throttle, if throttle is below this it will not misfire. The car
shakes a lot while it is misfiring. Alternator is
fine so it can't be a power issue. My thought was perhaps one of the
timing chains skipped a tooth, but with it not missing at 1/2 throttle
or above 3000RPMs I am not sure this would be the problem. In any gear
(manual trans) once the tach hits 3,000 or maybe 3,200, it straightens
out and runs smooth. I will dig out the cap/rotor tomorrow and see if
that can be the problem. Can it be a fuel thing?-Pump maybe? With
these symptoms perhaps someone can slim the problem down to just a few
parts to check out. Thank you so much for all your help -Dan B
VIN#5003




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 21:05:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: horns

Andy, There are all kinds of aftermarket horns at the stores, but I have
taken off the originals, cleaned them up and they work fine. Years of dirt
get in them.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 2:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] horns


> List,
> 
> One of my horns doesn't work - the low note one.  can i hook each one up
> directly to a battery with jumpers to see if the horn is broken or not?  I
> don't have the original horns so the wiring diagram doesn't do me much good.
> 
> if not, how can i test each horn with a meter or something to see if it is
> broken?
> 
> Andy



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 18:16:08 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine

With parts engineered by railroad folks in the back of the car, you may now
be able to do wheelies;>)

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 11:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine


Snipped by Scott

 Spent 2 days engineering a solution (manufactured for me by the guys at the
diesel shop from a piece of rail car. It is hands down the strongest part of
my vehicle now). 




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 03:41:11 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: horns

Yes, you can hook it directly to a 12V source such as a battery to get
it to honk. If it works, then check the wires for both a full 12V
source, and a clean ground connection.

If you want to clean them and resuse them, that's your choice. You can
easily find aftermarket replacements that sound off even louder. Or,
NOS horns appear to now be available at a competitive price.
Personally, I'd dump them and replace them. Cicadas, Sphinx Moths,
Paper Wasps, anything could be stuck in there. So rather than pry them
out and hurt yourself (stingers), or even risk damaging the horn in
the process, just replace it. After 20 years, who knows if it even
sounds as good as it once did new.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> One of my horns doesn't work - the low note one.  can i hook each
one up 
> directly to a battery with jumpers to see if the horn is broken or
not?  I don't 
> have the original horns so the wiring diagram doesn't do me much
good.
> 
> if not, how can i test each horn with a meter or something to see if
it is 
> broken?
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 03:37:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

It just might be the MSD coil. The system is supposed to work with a
Bosch coil. If you switch coils the MSD may not have the same
operating charactoristics and is getting "oversaturated". Try putting
the origional, Bosch coil back and see what happens. Another
possability is that with the "hotter" MSD coil some of the parts can't
take the higher voltage and are breaking down, like the cap and rotor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Here is some updates on the problem-The engine only misses at
> 1,000-3,000RPM Driving only. When the car is sitting and it is reved
> up and held, it doesn't miss at any RPM. Brand new 8MM wires were
> installed a few months ago with MSD hot coil, as well as spark plugs
> (+4s) and vacuum advance. Checked all the plugs, everything looked
> fine. No water was in the wells. Made sure all the wires were
> installed completely on the plug. Checked the vacuum advance, and also
> the solenoid (ticked when I unhooked electical plug with ign on). Made
> sure my idle motor switch was working. Motor sounds changed when I
> pulled the throttle with the ign on and engine off so I assume it is
> fine. Everything check out okay. Only misfires beyond 1/3~1/2
> throttle, if throttle is below this it will not misfire. The car





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 23:10:41 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Vent holes?


Any *new* car might have them, but not the DMC.  I don't think Chevy started
putting those on trucks till the mid 90s.

Anyway, those vents are just for looks.  There is no hole there to connect
them to the interior.  --Only solid fiberglass behind the vent, so no
worries about water getting in.

Jake with 1063



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 2:45 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Vent holes?


> They are there to release cabin air pressure.  If they were not the
> doors would almost never close right, due to inside pressure.  Check
> any car on the road, thay all have them.
>
> Stephane
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > What are the two holes in the body for(the ones right behind each
> > rear speaker)? I see no purpose for them at all except a place for




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 00:15:38 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Vendors and Support (volunteers)

This show is by far more than I can do totally by myself.
Many of you offered to volunteer for a few jobs I need done

I have now 6 judges, Three ISCA and three DeLorean Related to help them.

We have stage help in Richard and Ken and my son Kenny

I need 6-8 people to help with registration on Thursday from about 3:30 to 
6:00
you do not need to work the whole time since there is usually a big rush then 
it quits down so that 2 people can handle it.  Registration is 4:00 to 6:00 
followed by dinner.

I need 8-10 people on Saturday morning to help push the cars in the 
convention center 
We don't want too many fumes inside so we will push the cars into position.

There are so far 85 cars going inside.

If you can help for this position will  you please e-mail me and I will put 
you on the list.

Everyting is ready to go.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 05:31:51 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: weird problem (electrical)

I love driving my Delorean.. I always learn something new.
Here's a weird problem.
I'm playing my stereo and my lights are on.. No problem.
I switch them to high beam... The stereo blacks out briefly.. the 
lights on the stereo turn completely off as if the power was cut.. 
Then, it comes back on and picks up where it left off.  Now.. the 
interesting part.
If I switch the lights on dim and back on high immediately, it 
doesn't do it..... BUT..... if I wait about 30 seconds and do it 
again, it blacks out again just like before......  Tried it a lot and 
it's very repeatable..
So..... you who truly know this car..... what can be causing this 
strange problem?  Any help is appreciated...

Dale Funk
4984




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 23:40:05 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

In a message dated 6/6/04 10:28:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 5n-_at_dml_gmx.net 
writes:


>  Brand new 8MM wires were
> installed a few months ago with MSD hot coil, as well as spark plugs
> (+4s) and vacuum advance. 

Perhaps your 'upgraded' ignition system is culprit.  are the 8MM wires 
specifically designed for use with the DeLorean motor?  where did you get them? 
unless it was a volvo dealer or DMC vendor, they may not be working well.  the 
spark plugs - are they +4 platinums?  If so, many owners find that using regular 
old cheap single electrode copper plugs give better results than fancy 
'performance' or 'long lasting' plugs.  Rob Grady doesn't sell platinum plugs anymore 
for this reason.

You may want to bring your ignition system back to stock with Grady's 
ignition combo package.  if a hot ignition setup is what you really want, get DMC 
Houston's Nology ignition set.  at least those parts have been tested and 
verified to work with the PRV and provide some measurable performance gain (how much, 
anyway???).

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 20:50:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Adam, Adam Lee, Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Is anyone going to Pigeon Forge from Oklahoma Area?

Bob-
   I have an awkward question for you. I was wondering if you are driving your delorean?  If you are or arent I was wondering if you had room for me. I will go half in gas or whatever you prefer.  I would love to go to pigeon forge but don't really want to spend the money in gas all by myself. Let me know what you think.  I know you dont know me but I am 23/m non-smoker  and D lover.  I own VIN # 1913.  By the way...have you ever used John Hervey for anything?  I am thinking of having him do my brakes and AC.  Let me know...
 
Thanks, 
Adam Lee

Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi Adam,
I will be driving my D from Fort Worth, Texas to PF.
I am trying to get some other local D owners here to join in.
If your trip takes you past this way I would be willing to 
caravan with you.
Let me know.

- Videobob
VIN#5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links





		
---------------------------------
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Friends.  Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 06:48:55 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: DUA600 = Ducellier?

My alternator says on the sticker that it's a DUA600.  Is this the 
Ducellier?  Anyone want it, if it is? :)

Matt
#1604 - Engine currently out of the car to replace the lambda 
sensor.  Next month we'll pull it out again to change the oil, and 
then again to change the spark plugs.  





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 10:44:12 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

Dan,
I have no real idea what the reason is for your problem.
But you can be sure, that the chains didn't skip anything.
What I would check is - plugs (use the regular ones), ignition coil 
(I don't trust anything that doesn't show BOSCH on it) and the
fuel injectors.

There was one on the list lately who had a problem with a MSD-something
coil, too.

9 of 10 problems are electrical problems. Therefore I suggest to
check these parts first.

Elvis

> Here is some updates on the problem-The engine only misses at
> 1,000-3,000RPM Driving only. When the car is sitting and it is reved
> up and held, it doesn't miss at any RPM. Brand new 8MM wires were
> installed a few months ago with MSD hot coil, as well as spark plugs
> (+4s) and vacuum advance. Checked all the plugs, everything looked
> fine. No water was in the wells. Made sure all the wires were
> installed completely on the plug. Checked the vacuum advance, and also
> the solenoid (ticked when I unhooked electical plug with ign on). Made
> sure my idle motor switch was working. Motor sounds changed when I
> pulled the throttle with the ign on and engine off so I assume it is
> fine. Everything check out okay. Only misfires beyond 1/3~1/2
> throttle, if throttle is below this it will not misfire. The car
> shakes a lot while it is misfiring. Alternator is
> fine so it can't be a power issue. My thought was perhaps one of the
> timing chains skipped a tooth, but with it not missing at 1/2 throttle
> or above 3000RPMs I am not sure this would be the problem. In any gear
> (manual trans) once the tach hits 3,000 or maybe 3,200, it straightens
> out and runs smooth. I will dig out the cap/rotor tomorrow and see if
> that can be the problem. Can it be a fuel thing?-Pump maybe? With
> these symptoms perhaps someone can slim the problem down to just a few
> parts to check out. Thank you so much for all your help -Dan B
> VIN#5003
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 

-- 
+++ Jetzt WLAN-Router für alle DSL-Einsteiger und Wechsler +++
GMX DSL-Powertarife zudem 3 Monate gratis* http://www.gmx.net/dsl




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 06:48:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust (Cat Bypass Pipes)

Convert it to dual exhaust. Best $150 you'll ever spend. You have no
idea how much better access is without that convoluted single exhaust.

I simply looped stainless flex tubing around the engine cradle,
between the drive axles and lower support arms, to mufflers hanging in
the dead space under the rear frame extensions. Exit the rear fascia
in stock locations. Opened up so much room on driver's side I am now
contemplating mounting a power steering pump there to drive an adapted
rack.

My dual exhast also uses 2" pipe versus 1.5", or whatever JZD used.
Moves a *LOT* of air (which is also much cooler than converter
equipped exhaust). 

If you insist on retaining factory exhaust setup, I have a gutted
converter I'm no longer using. Serves the same purpose as a bypass
pipe. Contact me off list to discuss price.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
>
>Does anyone in the U.S. sell the cat bypass pipes?  
> 
> Matt
> #1604





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 03:28:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

Well, it's sounds as though your car is misfiring because it's unable
to completely burn all of the fuel that you're feeding into it. Now,
the question is "Why?" So you've either got an issue with poor spark
preventing the burning of the correct amount of fuel. Or, you've got a
problem with correct spark trying to burn too much fuel being force
fed into the motor. Aside from rocking the car back and forth, it
probably sounds like this: "Boom - Boom - Boom" Then as you increase
speed, it becomes, "boom-boom-boom-boomboomboomBOOMBOOOOVROOOOOOOOM!"

Your first step here should be to retrace your steps, and see if
perhaps you did something different to the car than normal. If this
was just your everyday, run-o-the mill commute, did you drive thru any
large puddles? Did you get lazy/cheap and buy a tank full of "ghetto
gas" that may have a high water content? If not then you've next got
to look at something different. Or in this case, listen. Make sure
that the frequency valve is plugged in, and is loudly buzzy. Some say
it's like an "Angry Cricket", where as I relate it more to a melow
cicada. It's located right under the airfilter. So you'll need to
remove that in order to see it. If it's disconnected, you car will run
like this.

If not the FV, then perhaps you do have some water in the distributor.
So removing it, and spraying a drying agent may be in order. Otherwise
it could be something else, but these are the two places that I would
start at first.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 23:34:43 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: RE: Future DCS Venues?

  I HAVE been working on such an event for the fall, but I've hit an
unexpected snag..

Ken (Montgomery)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 5:00 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Future DCS Venues?
> 
> 
> Maybe we can get Ken Montgomery to do one 
> the one he had in Califonia a few years back was real nice
> 
> Ken
> 



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 17:15:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: weird problem (electrical)

When you have weird electrical problems the first thing that should be
checked is all the ground connections. When power doesn't get properly
grounded and there are multiple connections at the same grounding
point you get "backfeeds" and they can cause all kinds of weird
symptoms. There are several on a Delorean with some of the more common
problem ones being:
The one on the left radiator support
All the "big" connections by the frame/battery/starter
Behind the radio
These and all others you can find should be taken apart and made clean
and shiny and tight.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I love driving my Delorean.. I always learn something new.
> Here's a weird problem.
> I'm playing my stereo and my lights are on.. No problem.
> I switch them to high beam... The stereo blacks out briefly.. the 
> lights on the stereo turn completely off as if the power was cut.. 
> Then, it comes back on and picks up where it left off.  Now.. the 
> interesting part.
> If I switch the lights on dim and back on high immediately, it 
> doesn't do it..... BUT..... if I wait about 30 seconds and do it 
> again, it blacks out again just like before......  Tried it a lot and 
> it's very repeatable..
> So..... you who truly know this car..... what can be causing this 
> strange problem?  Any help is appreciated...
> 
> Dale Funk
> 4984




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 16:37:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Separating the bellhousing from engine

Don't get too excited -- motor mount adapters are only 6x6 inches or
so. But they are made of REAL metal (1/4" alloy steel). Bolt to the
crossmember using the original motor mount holes, so the car can
easily convert back to a stock block if necessary (all my K Jetronic
wiring and plumbing is still in there too). Wrap around the
crossmember, using its corner for strength on the DeLo end. Let's be
honest -- the stock frame isn't hitting on much. I see now why
Northern owners park their cars November-March. A little road salt
would snap a sheet metal frame in half.

My biggest problem is height. Engine cover just barely cleared the air
filter when I test fit the manifold and carb on the old block. Now I'm
1/4" too tall. My current cover is so badly damaged (PO used it to
hold up the louvers in lieu of new struts, breaking it in several
places) that I wouldn't mind simply cutting it to fit. A more elegant
solution -- perhaps even swapping lower engine castings with an old
style block, -- can be effected after the Pigeon Forge deadline.

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller"
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> With parts engineered by railroad folks in the back of the car, you
may now
> be able to do wheelies;>)
> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 17:58:21 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Vent holes?

MANY early VIN cars (maybe even yours, Jake) has a3-4" diameter hole 
in the underbody just below and the outside vent. Some stories have 
said this was to relieve pressure or even give easier access to the 
clamps holding the rear speakers in place. We've started to seal them 
up on the cars that come in here, more to reduce noise than anything 
else.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> 
> Any *new* car might have them, but not the DMC.  I don't think 
Chevy started
> putting those on trucks till the mid 90s.
> 
> Anyway, those vents are just for looks.  There is no hole there to 
connect
> them to the interior.  --Only solid fiberglass behind the vent, so 
no
> worries about water getting in.
> 
> Jake with 1063
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_h...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 2:45 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Vent holes?
> 
> 
> > They are there to release cabin air pressure.  If they were not 
the
> > doors would almost never close right, due to inside pressure.  
Check
> > any car on the road, thay all have them.
> >
> > Stephane
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > > What are the two holes in the body for(the ones right behind 
each
> > > rear speaker)? I see no purpose for them at all except a place 
for




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 17:24:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

This is correct. Recently there was another poster with a similar
problem. He went back to the Bosch coil (again from an MSD) and found
a bad connection or a bad wire going to the coil which turned out to
be his problem. IMHO there is little to gain from an MSD. If you are
really having coil problems I would replace it with another Bosch. A
long shot, but another possability is a plugged up fuel filter or
really dirty air filter. I don't think it is a timing problem with the
camshafts. You could check the spark timing and verify that the
mechanical and vacuum advance is working. Try some fresh gas with 91
octane and see if that helps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Dan,
> I have no real idea what the reason is for your problem.
> But you can be sure, that the chains didn't skip anything.
> What I would check is - plugs (use the regular ones), ignition coil 
> (I don't trust anything that doesn't show BOSCH on it) and the
> fuel injectors.
> 
> There was one on the list lately who had a problem with a MSD-something
> coil, too.
> 
> 9 of 10 problems are electrical problems. Therefore I suggest to
> check these parts first.
> 
> Elvis
> 
> > Here is some updates on the problem-The engine only misses at
> >  is
> > fine. Everything check out okay. Only misfires beyond 1/3~1/2
> > throttle, if throttle is below this it will not misfire. The car
> > shakes a lot while it is misfiring. Alternator is
> > 
>b
> -- 
> 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 19:22:11 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re Broken engine mounts ( was "my car wants me to hate it")

I thought some of you might be interesting in seeing my crankcase 
with the busted motor mounts (or maybe you would even like to buy 
it!).  Here it is on e-bay, I have some very large pictures on there 
of it so be forewarned.  

http://tinyurl.com/2l4sk


Matt
#1604





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:57:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: axle clunk

This is one of those problems that has plagued me as well. Dan at DMC
Garden Grove tells me that it's the bearings inside the carrier that are
sliding and that Houston is working on a shim kit. I haven't talked to
anyone in Houston about it yet, but I probably should. I've been reporting
the problem for years and I keep hearing that a shim kit is being "worked
on".

The day that my clunk is fixed is going to be a great, great day.

-Christian


On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> it has been awhile since i've heard a rear clunk on my car but it seems to be
> back.  after searching the archives i noticed that a lot of people suggested
> re-lubricating the rear axles with some teflon spray.  however, i had my axles
> apart last year and did the whole boot/grease thing.  when i reach under the
> car, i can move the axles back and forth and they definitely clunk when
> hitting on the tire side.  this might not even be the problem, but what else can i
> do to eliminate the axles as suspect?  it sure sound like they are causing it
> (won't clunk twice in a row on the same turn).
>
> i have also checked my trailing arms for tightness/missing shims and
> tightened down the body bolts on the seat belts, rear sway brace in engine bay, and
> trunk located bolts.  didn't pull the carpet down to do the others or the hard
> pontoon ones.  everything was quite snug anyway.  i also removed everything
> from my trunk including the jack.
>
> it still clunks.
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:21:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Vent holes?

Hi James,
 
Interesting idea...  I was aware of that hole on some cars (I'm not sure about mine, I've never had it off), but it seems like a rather indirect route for the air to travel for pressure release.  In addition, I've never noticed doors close with more difficulty on later cars without the hole.
 
I guess I always just attributed lack of difficulty closing the doors to the "rolling" motion of the door closure.  That is, the top part of the seal first, working it's way down to the doorsill.
 
I would figure if that much thought was put into cabin pressure release, it would have been designed more efficiently.  Then again, I've certainly been wrong before...  Have you ever found any documentation on that mystery hole?
 
Jake


James <james_at_dml_usadmc.com> wrote:
MANY early VIN cars (maybe even yours, Jake) has a3-4" diameter hole 
in the underbody just below and the outside vent. Some stories have 
said this was to relieve pressure or even give easier access to the 
clamps holding the rear speakers in place. We've started to seal them 
up on the cars that come in here, more to reduce noise than anything 
else.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" 
wrote:
> 
> Any *new* car might have them, but not the DMC. I don't think 
Chevy started
> putting those on trucks till the mid 90s.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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