From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2054
Date: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:49 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Dream Maker?
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

2. Re: Re Broken engine mounts ( was "my car wants me to hate it")
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Dual Exhaust -- Clarified
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: weird problem (electrical)
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

5. Re: Verifying Valve Timing
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: weird problem (electrical)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. So much for fixing...
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: Vent holes?
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: weird problem (electrical)
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Engine misfiring
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Delorean Mid-Atlantic 2004 Membership sign ups
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

13. Differential axle shaft seal
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: Dream Maker?
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <AdmiralSenn_at_dml_flbb.net>

15. great steering now!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. Weather Stripping Makes Passenger Door Hard To Shut
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: Re: Engine misfiring and coils
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Engine misfiring
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

19. Re: Dream Maker?
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer_at_dml_mail.fearernet.com>

20. (Australian) Dream is over :(
From: "goportpower" <goportpower_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. SV: Re: A small start up problem
From: "Anders Brandt" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>

22. Re: Dream Maker?
From: David Doglay <daviddoglay_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

23. Re: Dream Maker?
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Custom DeLorean/DCS bumper stickers
From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer_at_dml_comcast.net>

25. Re: Differential axle shaft seal
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 15:49:19 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Dream Maker?

Hey all.

I recently found a copy of Dream Maker: The Rise and Fall of John Z.
DeLorean in a yard sale... anyway, I've been reading it, and am curious
about something.

It talks about his plans, and apparent designs for the DMC-24, a gull-winged
sedan.  Has anyone ever seen a diagram of this car?

Thanks.

Mark.
Canucklehead who wishes to Live The Dream...




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 21:24:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Re Broken engine mounts ( was "my car wants me to hate it")

Actually this is exactly the part Bill needs to mount his new PRV 
properly in the frame i.w. without any adapters. . .  Bill - how are 
you at aluminum welding? 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> I thought some of you might be interesting in seeing my crankcase 
> with the busted motor mounts (or maybe you would even like to buy 
> it!).  Here it is on e-bay, I have some very large pictures on 
there 
> of it so be forewarned.  
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/2l4sk





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 22:16:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Dual Exhaust -- Clarified

Is clear from off List messages that I neglected to adequately explain
my custom dual exhaust:

Am using stock manifolds and studs. I am also using stock crossover
pipe gaskets. Mated to them are custom flanges made from stainless
pipe nipples (threaded one end) and pipe nuts. Pipe nuts provide the
manifold mating surface and the pipe nipples hold my flex tubing.
Flanges are held to the manifolds with stock crossover pipe retainers,
cut off my old crossover pipe. Used stainless nuts on the manifold
studs and stainless guillotine clamps throughout.

Stainless flex tubing loops around the drive axles, to the outside of
the engine cradle, then passes between the lower support arms and axles.

Mufflers hang vertically in the dead space under the rear frame
extensions (between the engine cradle and the rear fascia). Are offset
inlet/outlet. Exhaust enters offset closest to the pavement, and exits
offset closest to the frame. From there it's about 8 inches through
the stock fascia tailpipe cutouts to the back bumper.

I used generic muffler hangers, bent to match my mating surfaces and
excess holes cut off (used 2 holes per hanger with stainless lag
screws). Lower offsets are attached to the outside of the engine
cradle. Upper offsets are attached to the underside of the frame
extensions. To reduce height,  upper hangers, were rotated into a Z
shape (rubber angles towards outside of the car, clamp retainers angle
towards inside of the car). Hangers actually grip the side of the
muffler outlets, not the top. I drilled & pinned the hanger washers,
through the rubber, with cut off finishing nails to hold that sharp Z
bend.

Note that the passenger pontoon extension had to be cut to match
driver's side. One of these days, time permitting, I may patch it with
fiberglass. Can't really see it behind the muffler however.

I will post pics to #5939's photo album AFTER car is reaseembled.

Bill Robertson
#5939




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 00:30:11 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: weird problem (electrical)

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 05:31:51 -0000, Dale Funk wrote:

> I'm playing my stereo and my lights are on.. No problem.
> I switch them to high beam... The stereo blacks out briefly.. the
> lights on the stereo turn completely off as if the power was cut..
> Then, it comes back on and picks up where it left off.  Now.. the
> interesting part.
> If I switch the lights on dim and back on high immediately, it
> doesn't do it..... BUT..... if I wait about 30 seconds and do it
> again, it blacks out again just like before...

Sounds to me like one of the cells on your battery is dying.
Take it out of the car and have it tested.

Having a dead cell will effectively drop the voltage on your
car by allmost 2 Volts, switching on a high current user will
drop the voltage even further. Most Stereo's don't play on
anything less than 9 to 10 Volts...

When flipping back and forth between high and dipped the
alternator probably "takes up" the drop because of the higher
current demand by the headlights, but after the described
30 seconds it can't react as fast as it has to supply the
lights with over 20 Amps all at once too!

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 22:33:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Verifying Valve Timing

PRV crankshaft pulleys have timing marks for both Cylinder 1 and
Cylinder 6. You can use both to verify valve timing on both sides of
the engine.

There's an access plug on top of the engine (not the one closest to
the front of the block) through which you can rest a foot long 5/16"
drill bit on Cylinder 3 (or is it 6?) counterweight. Starting 20
degrees or so BTDC, rotate the engine until the bit falls into an
indexing hole. Cylinder 1 is now TDC (timing mark should be pointing
at 0 on your scale). Set actual spark with engine running of course.

Once timing is set on Cylinder 1, use your light on Cylinder 6 to
verify it's OK too.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I don't think it is a timing problem with the
> camshafts. You could check the spark timing and verify that the
> mechanical and vacuum advance is working. 




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 17:46:27 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: weird problem (electrical)

My delorean does the same thing, i believe it is a big draw on the 
electrical system that interrupts the power to the radio.

Mark V


On Monday, June 7, 2004, at 12:31  AM, funkstuf wrote:

> I love driving my Delorean.. I always learn something new.
> Here's a weird problem.
> I'm playing my stereo and my lights are on.. No problem.
> I switch them to high beam... The stereo blacks out briefly.. the
> lights on the stereo turn completely off as if the power was cut..
> Then, it comes back on and picks up where it left off.  Now.. the
> interesting part.
> If I switch the lights on dim and back on high immediately, it
> doesn't do it..... BUT..... if I wait about 30 seconds and do it
> again, it blacks out again just like before......  Tried it a lot and
> it's very repeatable..
> So..... you who truly know this car..... what can be causing this
> strange problem?  Any help is appreciated...
>
> Dale Funk
> 4984
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 20:59:22 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: So much for fixing...

Well I took my car to a shop willing to take a shot at fixing my AC (the 
last shop I went too said he would look at it to see "if it was worth his 
time").  In the process he removed my console to get access to some pipe (he 
had my shop manual).  When refilling my AC with R12 the high pressure line 
blew.  So now I have no AC and...

-  The console is not properally reinstalled.
-  The right window switch sticks in the up position.
-  The door lock light stays on (but at least the light behind the hazzard 
switch goes off/on with the doors locked/unlocked).
-  The radio operates the power antenna, has some lights illuminated, the 
display is dead (time and station), and I have no sound.
-  The defrost switch won't move/operate.
-  The throttle sticks a bit since it now idles at 1500 RPMs.  If I tap the 
accelerator it goes back to around 800.

This is what I have found so far.

All that said, I really am not interested in assigning blame.  I am 
interested in fixing my problems.  Some are likely easy like swapping the 
connectors for the hazzard light and the door lock light.  The radio (it is 
the origional I assume since it has DMC on it) bothers me because it 
partially works.

What I am asking for is any thoughts of what to look for, tips on removing 
the console, things to look out for, etc...  This will help me help the shop 
fix it right.

I have the shop manual but would perfer more details and/or photos if 
available.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Ed
10541

_________________________________________________________________
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN 
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 01:31:35 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-

Today the car ran fine, it was in the 80's and a real nice day-so its
gotta be just water or moisture getting in the distributor cap. I've
ordered new replacements and will dig out the old cap to change it.
The cap and rotor are the only components I haven't replaced in a
while. -I guess I should have just put new ones on while the engine
was out. The plugs, wires and etc came from specialtauto-so the wires
were custom made for the car. Other then the last 2 days I've had no
problem with coil, plugs, wires- or any ignition component for that
matter- and I have noticed slight performance gain from the upgrades.
The only bad thing I've noticed since I put the car on the road is
that sometimes under the same conditions-full throttle on a hill or
climbing, say in 5th with low RPMs but still full throttle-the car
will sometimes have a quick shake and keep going-is this a sign that
my fuel pump may be going bad? It feels as if the clutch has a real
quick slip and then keeps going-but I know for sure its not the
clutch. Thanks for all your help guys -Dan Benedek, VIN5003




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 01:42:26 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Vent holes?

Easier access to the clamps holding the rear speakers? Wouldn't taking
a fender off to get to a clamp be more difficult then just removing
part of the seal and interior panel? I've had my fenders off while my
car was being rebuild and I havent noticed any holes in the fiberglass
behind. Are they really in earlier Vin cars? Dan B- VIN5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> MANY early VIN cars (maybe even yours, Jake) has a3-4" diameter
hole 
> in the underbody just below and the outside vent. Some stories have 
> said this was to relieve pressure or even give easier access to the 
> clamps holding the rear speakers in place. We've started to seal
them 
> up on the cars that come in here, more to reduce noise than
anything 
> else.
> 
> James




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 01:35:32 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: weird problem (electrical)

When you say "behind the radio" where exactly is this one?  Is it
shown in the parts manual anywhere?  I know there is a ground
connection on the right side of the radio bracket that requires the
removal of the center console, which grounds the radio & a few other
things.  Is this the one or is there one more "behind the radio" than
that one?
Thanks,

John Yeoman

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> When you have weird electrical problems the first thing that should be
> checked is all the ground connections. When power doesn't get properly
> grounded and there are multiple connections at the same grounding
> point you get "backfeeds" and they can cause all kinds of weird
> symptoms. There are several on a Delorean with some of the more common
> problem ones being:
> The one on the left radiator support
> All the "big" connections by the frame/battery/starter
> Behind the radio
> These and all others you can find should be taken apart and made clean
> and shiny and tight.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > I love driving my Delorean.. I always learn something new.
> > Here's a weird problem.
> > I'm playing my stereo and my lights are on.. No problem.
> > I switch them to high beam... The stereo blacks out briefly.. the 
> > lights on the stereo turn completely off as if the power was cut.. 
> > Then, it comes back on and picks up where it left off.  Now.. the 
> > interesting part.
> > If I switch the lights on dim and back on high immediately, it 
> > doesn't do it..... BUT..... if I wait about 30 seconds and do it 
> > again, it blacks out again just like before......  Tried it a lot and 
> > it's very repeatable..
> > So..... you who truly know this car..... what can be causing this 
> > strange problem?  Any help is appreciated...
> > 
> > Dale Funk
> > 4984




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 02:13:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring

I'm guessing your car is a 5 speed? The reason I suggest that is, in 
heavy rain, water is blown up into the engine compartment and on the 
crossover pipe which causes some steam too. It can all come straight 
up at the distributor from the back. I have had this happen numerous 
times in heavy rain. The way I stopped it was to smear some silicone 
sealer across the back edge of the distributor cap where it meets 
the distributor - just the back side. No problem after that.

I did not have the same problem with my automatic - I believe it is 
because the transmission takes up so much more room the effects in 
rain are different. I still put some silicone on the other day 
during the tune-up I was doing.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> It seems whenever it is raining hard, my engine starts to misfire 
and
> lack power. It will misfire at idle, and then move to misfiring 
only
> upon hard acceleration. This morning it was fine, but on my way 
home
> after work I had to accelerate hard and fast to pass someone who 
was
> going 30 and decided to go 60 while I was passing-After a few 
miles or
> so I noticed the missing. I'm not sure if it was because of the 
rain,
> or perhaps I damaged something? I have noticed several times that 
the
> engine misses on bad rainy days. I made sure all the spark wires 
were
> still in place and checked for loose wires here and there. Nothing
> unusual was found... Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys -
Dan
> B. VIN#5003




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 22:46:37 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic 2004 Membership sign ups

This is a reminder that Delorean Mid-Atlantic is now taking Membership
renewals for 2004.  

Membership buys you MANY benefits!  Check out our club site for more
information and a form to renew:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/membership/membership.htm

Hurry!  We are going to remove all 2003 members from our mailing list,
and remove access ot the newsletter archive (and some other nifty things
coming to the site soon for members only!)

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 03:15:24 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Differential axle shaft seal

Hi all,

My driver's side differential seal (not the CV joint) is weeping. 
It'll be ok until after P/F but I want to replace it soon after I 
return.

The manual makes it look pretty simple and straight forward but so 
did the head gasket replacement. I can think of at least 3 important 
steps the manual missed. 

Has anyone done this in real life? What was the post-mortem? How hard 
was it? 

thanks,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 03:59:10 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <AdmiralSenn_at_dml_flbb.net>
Subject: Re: Dream Maker?

As a long-time list lurker, I haven't had much to say, but...

I did a school project on these cars recently and found this:

http://www.entermyworld.com/articles/motortrend/mtmay81f1x1.jpg

Only one I know of.




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 01:02:16 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: great steering now!

List,

I have had somewhat sloppy steering for the last two years now, and I want to 
let everyone on the list know what can be done to fix it.

I replaced the following:
1. Steering rack (Grady rebuilt)
2. intermediate shaft with ball bearing U joints from Darryl Tinnerstedt
3. tie rod ends 
4. all four tires with Michelin Pilots
5. rack mounts and bushings

I got it finished this weekend but i was disappointed to find some slop still 
in the steering system.  not a lot, but not as clean and tight as i hoped it 
would be.  today with the help of a friend i found that the U-joints were 
rotating on the splines an unacceptable amount, causing extra play at each U-joint 
until it all added up at the steering wheel.  I tightened the allen head lock 
screws as tight as i could without stripping them and now I am pleased to say 
that the front end of my car feels brand new and every bit as smooth as my 
Lexus daily driver.  I never thought this car would clean up as well as it has.

If anyone out there is looking into rebuilding their steering, the route i 
went was not cheap but was definitely worth it.

See you in Pigeon Forge!
Andy Lien


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 00:47:07 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Weather Stripping Makes Passenger Door Hard To Shut

Hey All,
     I replaced my passenger side weatherstripping tonight since my other one 
was ripped and torn.   I used the thin kind that Grady sells.   Since I put 
the new stuff on, my door has become incredibly hard to shut.   I have to slam 
it as hard as I can to make it close properly.   I took off both striker pins 
and tried to re-adjust them with not much luck.   I also took the 
weatherstripping off the places that had too much friction and filed down the fiberglass 
under it a little bit and put the weatherstripping back on.   All of these 
seemed to help somewhat, but the door is still hard as heck to close.   Any other 
suggestions?   I would prefer not to mess with the hinges this close to PF 
since I don't want another problem.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 23:48:59 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine misfiring and coils

Group, There is a saying if you keep on doing what your doing, then you keep
on getting what you got. So, the question is are you happy with what you
got.
If your happy with the perfectly good conservative Bosch ignition system,
then I would keep on buying it. It's easy for people to sit and criticize
the parts when they haven't done any testing or research on them at all.
It's easy for some to criticize the ignition system for problems when you
may have a fuel delivery problem. And we sure can't blame the coil when it's
hooked up wrong. I'll say it this way since we can't look inside the
cylinder. If fire and fuel meet in a compression stroke then there is an
explosion.
With that said, here is the skinny on the coils:
 It's a coil of wire that has a primary and a secondary winding and it
doesn't know whether it's on a Delorean or a Porsche. The coil hasn't
changed much since the Model T car so it isn't rocket science.
The Delorean stock coil has a primary resistance of .7 ohms and the MSD also
has a primary of .7 ohms. But, since the MSD coil has a higher ratio of
windings between the primary and the secondary, hence a higher output
voltage. MSD recommends that a .8 ohm external ballast resistor be used with
the coil and we have a 1 ohm on the fire wall unless it's bad.
Race car drivers use them like popcorn and coupled with the proper wires you
will have a positive firing and more powerful firing system to burn the fuel
more effectively.
The 8mm low ohm wires are also the standard HP wire used in most modified
street cars and most general race cars. Low ohm wire again is used by people
requiring a hotter spark and more effective fuel burning.
The Pertronix coil which is more favorable to the stock wires has a higher
resistance of
1.5 ohms and has a primary vs. secondary windings rated to 40,000 volts and
that's what I would recommend with stock wires.
Also keep in mid that now having a more powerful ignition system and a more
positive firing system will now bring out the flaws in the fuel delivery
system. It will also find little problems easier that the forgiving stock
ignition system.
Some of the problems could be a defective plug, defective wire, bleed over
from wire to ground at higher RPM's, fuel injectors not balanced out and one
is delivering more fuel than another, What else ???.
Bosch was the original plugs used on the car. Going to the Bosch Platinum +
4 again is an up grade to the stock plug.
To me the best way to find the weakest link in a system like Dan's is
possibly a engine analyzer to find the problem.
There are 1000's of MSD and Pertronix coils out there with no problems, so
we just haven't found his particular one.
Here is a link to take a look at.
http://www.msdignition.com/coil_blaster_1.htm

John






-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:24 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine misfiring-Updated-


This is correct. Recently there was another poster with a similar
problem. He went back to the Bosch coil (again from an MSD) and found
a bad connection or a bad wire going to the coil which turned out to
be his problem. IMHO there is little to gain from an MSD. If you are
really having coil problems I would replace it with another Bosch. A
long shot, but another possability is a plugged up fuel filter or
really dirty air filter. I don't think it is a timing problem with the
camshafts. You could check the spark timing and verify that the
mechanical and vacuum advance is working. Try some fresh gas with 91
octane and see if that helps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Dan,
> I have no real idea what the reason is for your problem.
> But you can be sure, that the chains didn't skip anything.
> What I would check is - plugs (use the regular ones), ignition coil
> (I don't trust anything that doesn't show BOSCH on it) and the
> fuel injectors.
>
> There was one on the list lately who had a problem with a MSD-something
> coil, too.
>
> 9 of 10 problems are electrical problems. Therefore I suggest to
> check these parts first.
>
> Elvis
>
> > Here is some updates on the problem-The engine only misses at
> >  is
> > fine. Everything check out okay. Only misfires beyond 1/3~1/2
> > throttle, if throttle is below this it will not misfire. The car
> > shakes a lot while it is misfiring. Alternator is
> >
>b
> --
>




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 05:02:13 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Engine misfiring

The transmission is a 5 speed, and your response makes perfect sense!
The time it would take for the exhaust to heat up and the amount of
driving to blow water up and finally getting into the cap-is about the
time my car starts so give me problems. Once I get my new cap I will
seal it as you suggest. Thanks! Dan Benedek-VIN5003

> I'm guessing your car is a 5 speed? The reason I suggest that is, in 
> heavy rain, water is blown up into the engine compartment and on the 
> crossover pipe which causes some steam too. It can all come straight 
> up at the distributor from the back. I have had this happen numerous 
> times in heavy rain. The way I stopped it was to smear some silicone 
> sealer across the back edge of the distributor cap where it meets 
> the distributor - just the back side. No problem after that.
> 
> I did not have the same problem with my automatic - I believe it is 
> because the transmission takes up so much more room the effects in 
> rain are different. I still put some silicone on the other day 
> during the tune-up I was doing.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 01:06:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer_at_dml_mail.fearernet.com>
Subject: Re: Dream Maker?

For reference, the following was recently on eBay. Note the picture of the
sedan:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14042&item=2248382397&rd=1



On Mon, 7 Jun 2004, Mark wrote:

> Hey all.
> 
> I recently found a copy of Dream Maker: The Rise and Fall of John Z.
> DeLorean in a yard sale... anyway, I've been reading it, and am curious
> about something.
> 
> It talks about his plans, and apparent designs for the DMC-24, a gull-winged
> sedan.  Has anyone ever seen a diagram of this car?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Mark.
> Canucklehead who wishes to Live The Dream...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 07:13:15 -0000
From: "goportpower" <goportpower_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: (Australian) Dream is over :(

Well, just as i thought things were going nicely for getting my car 
to Australia, I find that Department of Road Transport (SA), tell me 
that I cannot register a 20-22 year old car being left-hand drive. It 
needs to be at least 30 years old and there is no way I can afford 
another $20k for a conversion. This confuses (and infuriates) me as I 
have seen other cars on the road of less age, being driven around 
LHD. Oh well sorry for the rant guys. I guess the dream is over...? 
any help/advice?




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 09:20:16 +0200
From: "Anders Brandt" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>
Subject: SV: Re: A small start up problem

Thanks Matt!
I'll take a look at it. But if the cold start valve injects too much fuel,
is that due to a failure in one of the temperature switches/sensor or
whatevertheyarecalled...

Best regards
Anders  #10238



Anders Brandt   Photographer/Editor

Linnégatan 24
216 14 Limhamn
+46 40 36 70 76
+46 708 36 10 02
anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se
http://www.smartfilm.se/


-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Skickat: den 4 juni 2004 16:46
Till: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Ämne: [DML] Re: A small start up problem

3000 seems kind of high.  I think 2000-2500 is probably more in the
normal range.  You will likely have to adjust your mixture setting
now that you've replaced your oxygen sensor.  The reason that the
RPMS jump up like that (or at least this is what I think) is because
of the cold start valve injecting additional fuel into the engine
when you start it.  When all of this additional fuel is burned up,
the idle falls back down to normal and the idle speed motor takes
control.

Matt
#1604 - likely the only car ever to its engine pulled in the process
of replacing the oxygen sensor



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anbrahaesl1982" <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi,
> I've just replaced my CO sensor due to total lack of idle. The
idle is back but one part
> of the original problem remains. When I start the engine the revs
go upp to 3000 and
> stays there for 30 sec and the it goed down to normal. Does anyone
have an idea on
> this, it's probably very simple.
>
> Keep on driving D
> Anders




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 11:36:08 +0100 (BST)
From: David Doglay <daviddoglay_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dream Maker?



Mark <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca> wrote:Hey all.

I recently found a copy of Dream Maker: The Rise and Fall of John Z.
DeLorean in a yard sale... anyway, I've been reading it, and am curious
about something.

It talks about his plans, and apparent designs for the DMC-24, a gull-winged
sedan. Has anyone ever seen a diagram of this car?

Thanks.

Mark.
Canucklehead who wishes to Live The Dream...




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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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I found some pics of dmc 24 on internet it is done by computer based on original designs. if u want it tell me ur e-mail address and i send them to u.
		
---------------------------------
  Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends today! Download Messenger Now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 14:00:04 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dream Maker?

I believe this car was to be based on the "Medusa" concept by 
Guigario _at_dml_ Ital Design.  It has the same window in a window design 
that our cars have but slightly modified

It can be found posted on several other D sites...can't remeber at 
this very moment.  IMHO no a very pretty car in the drawings that I 
have seen, but I sure it would have looked much different if it was 
ever produced.

Michael 
VIN# 2944


> Hey all.
> 
> I recently found a copy of Dream Maker: The Rise and Fall of John Z.
> DeLorean in a yard sale... anyway, I've been reading it, and am 
curious
> about something.
> 
> It talks about his plans, and apparent designs for the DMC-24, a 
gull-winged
> sedan.  Has anyone ever seen a diagram of this car?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Mark.
> Canucklehead who wishes to Live The Dream...




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 08:27:00 -0000
From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Custom DeLorean/DCS bumper stickers

At this disgusting hour, I'm still up, and I'm playing with Photoshop. I remade a bumper 
sticker I'd made for myself earlier then accidentally deleted. Decided to offer it to other 
people going to DCS.

http://www.angelfire.com/mac/f14dflyer/stickers.html

That page is very crude, as I didn't have the energy for an elegant presentation or 
thumbnails.

Anyway, four 300 dpi, 3X10 inch JPEGs are available for download there. Beware viewing 
them in Internet Explorer, as they will probably get cut off. Right click and save them.

Two say "I'd Rather Be Driving a DELOREAN" (with "DELOREAN" in the actual DMC font). 
One is black letters on a brushed stainless steel background. The other is Stainless letters 
on a black background.

The other two say "We're Going to DeLorean Car Show 2004 Pigeon Forge, Tennessee - 
June 17-20, 2004 SEE YOU IN PIGEON FORGE!" (again, with the capitalized text in the DMC 
font). Again, one with metal letters/black background and one with black letters metal 
background.

Feel free to download and print if desired. You could tape them into your window if 
desired, or do what I did and print them using a bumper sticker kit from OfficeMax.

The DCS sticker is based on the deloreancarshow.com alternate banner. I'm not trying to 
step on Ken's toes or anything. Just felt like making this.




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 11:34:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Differential axle shaft seal

Pretty easy - I've cone several. It's a bit fiddley prying it out but 
it can be done. 

Now for the Caution Part - you'll probably find that the part of the 
flange that goes into the seal is a bit rusty and will not clean up. 
If you put it back together with a new seal it will probably still 
leak. Best solution is to sleeve it - Grady sells a Harmonic Balancer 
Sleeve in the correct size. Save yourself from future aggravation and 
get one (or two since you're under there). 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> My driver's side differential seal (not the CV joint) is weeping. 
> It'll be ok until after P/F but I want to replace it soon after I 
> return.
> 
> The manual makes it look pretty simple and straight forward but so 
> did the head gasket replacement. I can think of at least 3 
important 
> steps the manual missed. 
> 
> Has anyone done this in real life? What was the post-mortem? How 
hard 
> was it? 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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