From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2056
Date: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:15 PM

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Delorean ECU?
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Alternator Leaking
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

3. Re: Differential axle shaft seal
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Differential axle shaft seal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 01:51:10 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean ECU?

To what extent does the ECU control the functions of the Delorean's 
engine management? I guess why I am asking is ...is it something 
that can be "tweaked" or is it too primitive of a system to even 
think of attempting this?   Thanx


Harry Vin 2696




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 02:01:03 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Leaking

I'll confirm Dave's analysis. That goo is from the voltage 
regulator. It's the stuff to seal it and keep all the pieces from 
vibrating, etc. Heat is the cause of the run-off probably because of 
the location of the alternator and heat from the exhaust. I have 
thought about a shield or some other approach. That's been some time 
ago. I've just left it for now. So far so good. The Motorola works 
great - it is just a bit weak with everything running.

My big problem is trying to get a replacement alternator to last 
longer than a day or two. So far I've gone through one new Grady 
alternator and three rebuilds on that (voltage regulators) with no 
luck. I've checked everything I can think of and I still cannot 
figure out what is causing the failures. The Motorola works well 
except for its slight inherent low capacity at full load.

Harold McElraft - 3354




 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> While I was beginning work on flushing my cooling system, I 
noticed 
> about a half-dozen drops of thick oil under the right side of the 
> engine.  Turns out it's oil that's leaking from my Motorola 
> alternator.
> 
> So how long do I have before I get to replace this too?
> 
> Johnny
> 5518




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 01:39:18 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Differential axle shaft seal

I'll confirm the leaking with a new seal without replacing the 
flange or using the sleave.

Harold McElraft - 3354


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> The seals generally come out without too much trouble. The BIG 
thing
> when doing this job is to put the special nut back EXACTLY as you
> remove it. Mark it with some paint or nail polish and count the 
turns.
> This is a very important adjustment and you do not want to change 
it.
> If the flange is grooved, damaged, or rusty, Dave is correct, it 
must
> be replaced or sleeved or the new seal will soon leak.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> > Pretty easy - I've cone several. It's a bit fiddley prying it 
out but 
> > it can be done. 
> > 
> > Now for the Caution Part - you'll probably find that the part of 
the 
> > flange that goes into the seal is a bit rusty and will not clean 
up. 
> > If you put it back together with a new seal it will probably 
still 
> > leak. Best solution is to sleeve it - Grady sells a Harmonic 
Balancer 
> > Sleeve in the correct size. Save yourself from future 
aggravation and 
> > get one (or two since you're under there). 
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > > Hi all,
> > > 
> > > My driver's side differential seal (not the CV joint) is 
weeping. 
> > > It'll be ok until after P/F but I want to replace it soon 
after I 
> > > return.
> > > 
> > > The manual makes it look pretty simple and straight forward 
but so 
> > > did the head gasket replacement. I can think of at least 3 
> > important 
> > > steps the manual missed. 
> > > 
> > > Has anyone done this in real life? What was the post-mortem? 
How 
> > hard 
> > > was it? 
> > > 
> > > thanks,
> > > 
> > > Rich A.
> > > #5335




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 02:03:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Differential axle shaft seal

On the 5-speed you can change the right side without removing the
special nut (there is none on that side). The left side DOES have that
nut. On the automatic there is a special nut on BOTH sides. Refer to
G:06:04 and F:04:01. The main point of my post was the need (if you
mess with that damm nut) to put it back EXACTLY as you removed it. In
many people's haste to "tear things apart" they may overlook the need
to carefully document the exact position and # of turns of the nut.
Once it is removed and the setting is lost it takes removal and
disassembly of the final drive to get it correct. It is not a "fun"
adjustment to have to do so I was just warning about the need to not
lose the setting.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> David - I don't recall reason to remove the "special nut" when 
> servicing the seal. After you remove the axle flange you can pry the 
> seal out with a screwdriver and press the new one in, all from the 
> outside. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > The seals generally come out without too much trouble. The BIG thing
> > when doing this job is to put the special nut back EXACTLY as you
> > remove it. Mark it with some paint or nail polish and count the 
> turns.
> >




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