From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2064
Date: Sunday, June 13, 2004 4:48 PM

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Idle speed searching
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. HELP! My torsion bar is coming out!
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

3. BAE Turbo and distributor timing
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: HELP! My torsion bar is coming out!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. RE: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF
From: "Bob Hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net>

7. Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

8. Re: Is there a Direct Replacement for the Electric rear Antenna?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

9. Re: Thermotime Switch Question
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

10. To those not attending the DeLorean Car Show at Pigeon Forge.
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

11. Re: Idle speed searching
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

12. Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

13. Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

15. Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Thermotime Switch Question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

17. Re: Sediment in Cooling system
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Still an interior lamp issue
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 22:55:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed searching

Either that or the old filter was really full of dirt and ANY new,
clean filter would have been an improvement! In any case you may need
a slight tweak or maybe you need to replace some leaky vacuum hoses or
both.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Now that you don't have the restrictive air flow by an original
filter or a
> stock replacement the mixture is leaner and may need readjusting.
The K&N
> and the Blue filter are the least restrictive for more air flow.
This tells
> you it's working.
> John
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: johnzd81 [mailto:johnzd81_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 2:02 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Idle speed searching
> 
> 
> Hello,
>     Just got around to replacing my air filter with a K & N style
> filter (from Special T) and now the idle is erratic when I first
> start the car.  It goes from about 700 to 1000 rpm for about 3
> minutes, then levels out rock solid at 900.  I don't see any hoses
> off, or cracked etc... and the idle was a solid 900 before the air
> filter replacement.
> 
> Thanks
> VIN1674
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 23:01:25 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: HELP! My torsion bar is coming out!

Could someone please take a look at these 2 pictures of my driver's 
side torsion bar and tell me how to fix this.  It looks like it 
needs to be pushed in further, but I'm not sure what a safe way is 
to do it.  


http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/m/d/mds328/DSCF0075.JPG

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/m/d/mds328/DSCF0076.JPG

Can I smack it back into place with a hammer?  It has been like this 
since I got the car, but I just noticed now since today I took off 
my roof T-panel. 

thanks!!!!


Matt
#1604







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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 00:11:55 -0000
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: BAE Turbo and distributor timing

My Delorean has a BAE Turbo and recently I noticed a loss of power 
at the higher rpms.  I checked the timing with the vacuum hose 
disconnected and there was no timing advance with increase in RPM 
(the vacuum advance itself worked fine).  I removed the distributor 
and discovered that the centrifugal weights have been intentionaly 
limited in their motion.  The ignition has a J&S knock sensor module 
so I assume that the timing must controlled only by vacuum and the 
knock sensor and not by rpms.  Does anyone know what the timing spec 
should be?  I carefully marked everything during removal but would 
like to make sure it is set up properly.  

I checked the full throttle switch too and it is ok.  The turbo is 
turning.  Any ideas for the next thing to check?

Regards




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 22:29:50 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF

Hey Guys,     
     Well yesterday we had a torrential downpour here in Cincinnati, and I 
had my D out in it for a few hours.   Towards the end of the day I noticed that 
the foam on the bottom of my driver side carpet was SOAKED.   There was not a 
dry spot I could find.   The drain is not clogged, and I have a piece of 
screen over it to keep leaves and things out.   I am frustrated because my car has 
always seemed to leak water, regardless of the Service Bulletin and everything 
else I have tried.   The weatherstripping is new and does a good job keeping 
water from entering through the doors.   In fact, I am 99% sure it is not 
coming in from under the doors.   Instead I believe it is coming in down by the 
driver's feet.   I used a 1 Million candlepower light to see if I could see any 
rays of light coming out of the car, and the only place I could see light was 
through the speedo cable, which I think was because the cable is translucent.  
 Tomorrow I plan on spraying black rubber undercoating all under the front 
wheelwells and all of the fiberglass in the front of the car to see if by chance 
that fixes the leak.   Does anyone have ANY advice/ideas on where to look? 
Even if it is a long shot, I am willing to check it.   I really need to fix this 
in case it rains on the way to PF! 

Patrick
1880 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 03:36:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: HELP! My torsion bar is coming out!

You could probably leave it alone and it won't get any worse. Put a
dab of nail polish on it so you can see if it moves. Don't try to
smack it with a hammer to move it back. The best thing to do would be
to remove it using the proper tools, clean everything up, and then
reinstall. You might have trouble sliding the anchor bracket off the
splines, being that near the end of the splines they might have
twisted. Work the bracket off carefully and, if you have to, file the
splines so the bracket slides on and off easily but not loosely. If
you do remove it make sure the socket in the hinge that the torsion
bar goes into is clean and nothing is inside to interfere with the
torsion bar seating all the way in.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
> Could someone please take a look at these 2 pictures of my driver's 
> side torsion bar and tell me how to fix this.  It looks like it 
> needs to be pushed in further, but I'm not sure what a safe way is 
> to do it.  
> 
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 23:48:13 -0400
From: "Bob Hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net>
Subject: RE: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF


Try your drivers side windishield side seal.

-----Original Message-----
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 10:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF


Hey Guys,
     Well yesterday we had a torrential downpour here in Cincinnati, and I
had my D out in it for a few hours.   Towards the end of the day I noticed
that
the foam on the bottom of my driver side carpet was SOAKED.   There was not
a
dry spot I could find.   The drain is not clogged, and I have a piece of
screen over it to keep leaves and things out.   I am frustrated because my
car has
always seemed to leak water, regardless of the Service Bulletin and
everything
else I have tried.   The weatherstripping is new and does a good job keeping
water from entering through the doors.   In fact, I am 99% sure it is not
coming in from under the doors.   Instead I believe it is coming in down by
the
driver's feet.   I used a 1 Million candlepower light to see if I could see
any
rays of light coming out of the car, and the only place I could see light
was
through the speedo cable, which I think was because the cable is
translucent.
 Tomorrow I plan on spraying black rubber undercoating all under the front
wheelwells and all of the fiberglass in the front of the car to see if by
chance
that fixes the leak.   Does anyone have ANY advice/ideas on where to look?
Even if it is a long shot, I am willing to check it.   I really need to fix
this
in case it rains on the way to PF!

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 22:58:25 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF

Run a water hose over the car to see where it is dripping into your car.

Mark V



On Saturday, June 12, 2004, at 09:29  PM, PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Hey Guys,
>      Well yesterday we had a torrential downpour here in Cincinnati, 
> and I
> had my D out in it for a few hours.   Towards the end of the day I 
> noticed that
> the foam on the bottom of my driver side carpet was SOAKED.   There 
> was not a
> dry spot I could find.   The drain is not clogged, and I have a piece 
> of
> screen over it to keep leaves and things out.   I am frustrated 
> because my car has
> always seemed to leak water, regardless of the Service Bulletin and 
> everything
> else I have tried.   The weatherstripping is new and does a good job 
> keeping
> water from entering through the doors.   In fact, I am 99% sure it is 
> not
> coming in from under the doors.   Instead I believe it is coming in 
> down by the
> driver's feet.   I used a 1 Million candlepower light to see if I 
> could see any
> rays of light coming out of the car, and the only place I could see 
> light was
> through the speedo cable, which I think was because the cable is 
> translucent.
>  Tomorrow I plan on spraying black rubber undercoating all under the 
> front
> wheelwells and all of the fiberglass in the front of the car to see if 
> by chance
> that fixes the leak.   Does anyone have ANY advice/ideas on where to 
> look?
> Even if it is a long shot, I am willing to check it.   I really need 
> to fix this
> in case it rains on the way to PF!
>
> Patrick
> 1880
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/shoebox.msnw
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 23:38:53 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a Direct Replacement for the Electric rear Antenna?

http://www.teptronics.com/  search for part number LN46

This is the same antenna that is sold on ebay for our cars for a 
fraction of the price. $17.99 on the website, $59.99 on ebay.

I just recommended this to a friend on the DML and it worked on his 
Delorean with no problem.

Mark




On Friday, June 11, 2004, at 08:23  AM, Jason Perkins wrote:

> My rear electric antenna (83) has decided to stop working right before
> the big trip.  I know I can purchase one from one of our D vendors, but
> I probably wont get to it in time.  Does anyone know of a
> cross-reference antenna that would work?
>
> Thanks,
> Jason



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 04:42:15 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Thermotime Switch Question

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I NEVER apply ANY pressure to the gas pedal when
> starting my DeLorean and, frankly, not only does it
> start every time, but it fires with the least amount
> of starter assistance of any car I have ever owned.
> 
> Guess I'll have to dig out my handbook and read it!!
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867

Same here!  I've had my DeLorean for 3 years and have never had to
touch the throttle during starting.  Just reach for key, turn it, and
Vrrrooom! It usually cranks 3 or 4 times, and purrs to life whether
its been sitting for 20 minutes or 20 days.  And it still has the
original wires, coil, injectors, etc.  The only problem I had was when
I changed the O2 sensor last year.  For the next few days, it took 
ALOT of cranking to get it to start, as those of you who were at
Marvin Stein's London meet can remember.  After that, she went back to
normal again and would fire right up.  Maybe it took some time for the
ECU or Lambda to get used to the new O2 sensor?  Anyone have an
explanation?  Anyhow, the only vehicle that could start as easily as
my DeLo, was my Nissan pickup truck which would start in 3 cranks in
-20C weather with a 9 year old battery.

The manual does say to depress the throttle during starting, so I'm 
wondering if those of us who don't have to are running with an
over-rich mixture or something else out of whack.

Richard Rowe
VIN 5853


> --- therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> > Per the the
> > DeLorean owner's Handbook, you >MUST< press and hold
> > the gas pedal
> > down  of the way when cranking the engine! 




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 04:58:51 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: To those not attending the DeLorean Car Show at Pigeon Forge.

To those who are not attending the DeLorean Car Show at Pigeon Forge.

Several Arizona DeLorean owners and enthusiasts, AZ-D members and non-
members alike, for one reason or another, are not going to be in 
attendance at the 2004 DeLorean Car Show at Pigeon Forge.  As an 
alternative to sitting at home sulking, I would like to invite 
EVERYONE to a birthday/potluck/tech session get together on June 
19th, hosted by AZ-D member and original owner, Pamela Grotsky at her 
home in Tucson.

Phoenix-Area folks will meet in front of Starbucks at the Chandler 
Mall (just off the 101 _at_dml_ Chandler Blvd.) 
(http://chandlermall.westcor.com) _at_dml_ 8:00  8:30 AM where we will 
caravan south to Casa Grande (I-10 Exit 194) to meet up with AZ-D 
member, Daniel Fox and to fill up with gas if needed before 
continuing on to Tucson.

Tucson-Area folks will meet at Pam Grotsky's home in Tucson _at_dml_
11:00 
AM (please contact me or Pam for directions).

This get together is a combination: birthday party for me (no 
presents please, just show up with a dish to share), socializing fun 
and food getting the Phoenix and Tucson folk to know each other, and 
to finish putting Pam's car back together (reconnect fuel 
accumulator, reinstall center console, adjust the emergency brake, 
get it off the floor stands, and possibly take it for a test drive).

My wife and I will be bringing a birthday cake.  Please r.s.v.p. to 
me or Pam.  If you don't have Pam Grotsky's contact info, let me know 
and I will give it to you.

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
VIN 10365
captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 04:48:47 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Idle speed searching

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Now that you don't have the restrictive air flow by an original
filter or a
> stock replacement the mixture is leaner and may need readjusting.
The K&N
> and the Blue filter are the least restrictive for more air flow.
This tells
> you it's working.
> John
> 
> 
> 
Yeah, but wouldn't that cause the O2 sensor reading to change, thereby
prompting the system to automatically re-adjust the mixture by itself?

Richard Rowe
VIN 5853




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 05:00:25 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Joe, Be careful using any jumper in the fan fail. Mine or anyone's.
They can
> over heat as well as the Circuit breaker they drawer their power from. (
> Hot ). The fan fail and fan relay needs to be updated with better
products.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com

I second that.  Those jumpers are better than the blue fan-fail
module, but are only meant to be a temporary fix.  I upgraded to
SpecialT's Fan-Fix last year and noticed the jumpers that were in
there before had started to melt. A fire waiting to happen! 

Richard Rowe
VIN 5853

> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: joeyoseppijoe [mailto:joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 2:05 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade
> 
> 
> I picked up one of those a while ago from the same guy for $149.95,
> after looking them over they weren't worth it, sold them to someone
> else. After besically having a relay kit from every vendor now, I
> can safely say the PJ Grady has the best relay kit available, all
> Bosch relays, the fused jumper for the fain fail, and the spade bit
> realys are the same style relay. All other make you hack up your
> wiring  and solder to install the breakers which just wasn't for me.
> Grady's clips on just like the origonals. For the money and quality,
> I use Grady's relays.
> 
> Just my $0.02 on relay updates
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> 2524 & 16634
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 05:41:04 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade

John,

Thanks for the warning, but that is why I sold the kit. It was too 
cheesy to seriouslu use for the Delorean. The eBay ones are all junk 
to anyone who is reading this thread.

Joe





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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 22:42:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front brakes
while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped rotors.
I've probably changed the pads somewhere in the neighbourhood of 20 times
in the past 4 years of ownership, and I've tried every kind out there.
I've replaced the rotors, turned the rotors, replaced the parking brake
pads, different shims, different springs, different clips, different
compounds, and still I get squeaking, rubbing, chirping etc.

Basically, I want out. :)

Has anyone ever found different calipers and rotors that will fit on a
DeLorean, but are not the calipers and rotors that the vendors carry?
Vented, slotted, and drilled are of course preferable, but at this point,
I'll try anything that anyone can think of.

Thanks everyone. Oh, have fun in Pigeon Forge! I'm sorry I'll be missing
it.

-Christian




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 05:52:45 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF

Patrick, 

I thought you told me you fixed all those leaks? Guess another night 
with the seats out and the hair dryers running again huh? Also check 
the little rubber grommet seal around the lower speedo cable, that 
was where my waser leak WAS. Best of luck. Time for you to buy an 
outdoor CarCoon. :)

Later,

Joe

2524 & 16634
 





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:40:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Thermotime Switch Question

Page 14 of the 1982 Owners Manual, "Engine Start/Door" sticker part #
108715, and the 1981 Owners Handbook (I'm too lazy right now to run
out to my car to grab this Manual) all state that wheather you have a
5-Speed, or an Auto, you need to hold the accelerator pedal down
approx.  of the way down when attempting to start the motor.

Although, I too have noticed that this only applies when the engine is
cold. Durring the summer months when the motor never gets cold enough
to trip the Thermotime Switch, I never have to hold the pedal down
either. Which is why this is apart of my theory about why this is
nessisary for cold starting. Like I say, it's only a theory, but it's
one that seems to click with what I've seen on mine, and other
DeLoreans out there as owners have reported.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I NEVER apply ANY pressure to the gas pedal when
> starting my DeLorean and, frankly, not only does it
> start every time, but it fires with the least amount
> of starter assistance of any car I have ever owned.
> 
> Guess I'll have to dig out my handbook and read it!!
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 07:24:00 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sediment in Cooling system

I found something called Prestone:super flush and my automotive 
store. It says it will remove deposits from the cooling system. I 
haven't tried it out though since my engine actually need to run 
before I can put this in :)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> DO NOT PUT LIQUID PLUMBER NEAR YOUR ENGINE. Liquid plumber contains
> little pieces of aluminum and sodium hydroxide which together with 
water
> react vigorously.  The pipes in your house are not aluminum and can 
take
> this reaction.  A little liquid plumber on your engine mixed with 
water
> could feasibly eat a hole through the aluminum.  It is true that 
liquid
> plumber is occasionally used to remove anodized coatings from 
aluminum,
> but the parts are typically soaked in an open area and rinsed with
> copious amounts of water very quickly.  The people that use draino 
and
> other acid/alkaline solvents on aluminum are making a deal with the
> devil.  I would try sanding the sediment out if you can get to it, I
> realize it is within the pipes, so this might not be a feasible 
option,
> there are some chemicals, which would be safe such as paint 
thinner, or
> brake clean, these will remove organic deposits, but would probably 
not
> be things you would want to put in the pipes while the car the 
running.
> 
> See you in PF
> 
> Joe P.
> VIN 17167 6808
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 6
>    Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 13:25:47 -0500
>    From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
> Subject: RE: Sediment in Cooling system
> 
> Liquid Plumber?
> Some other solvent?
> (Use at your own risk, I have no idea what this would do!)
> -VB




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 05:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help Me Fix My Water Leaks Before PF

I, too, see wet carpets. My next thing to check will
be the windshield wiper arm seals.
I believe that is one of the things on the bulliten,
though, so you may have already checked it.



	
		
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:16:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing

You may just need a tune up!  Bad wires, coil, or
plugs would cause this.  Also change the fuel filter
while you are at it.


--- fgdavison <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> My Delorean has a BAE Turbo and recently I noticed a
> loss of power 
> at the higher rpms.  I checked the timing with the
<SNIP>



	
		
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 13:33:30 -0000
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Still an interior lamp issue

Dan.

I have just corrected my wiring. I apologize if this has already been 
covered. 

Once the switch module has been prised gently from the roof you 
should have 3 wires; black, purple, purple/white. The module itslef 
has three connectors which should be cleaned whilst accessible.

The purple wire is the 'live' and should be connected to the side 
with the single pin.

The side with the two pins can be wired either way, allowing you to 
decide which way to push for manual/auto lights.
The black wire is the manual 'on' wire. 
The purple/white is the connector which allows the courtesy circuit 
to work.



In my case the black wire had been placed onto the single pin, 
meaning only the 'manual on' function worked.

John Chapelhow
MMG 287W : 'Boeing' #0737


Thanks -Dan B. #5003




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