From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2065
Date: Monday, June 14, 2004 7:36 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Idle cycles from 750 to 1200 RPMs after Alternator Swap and overheat problem
From: "cahamond" <cahamond_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

2. Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

3. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Re: Thermotime Switch Question
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

5. Re: XM radio
From: Chris Pilcic <chrisdmc82_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: Idle speed searching
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: insurance questions
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

9. Looking for Delorean Manual
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: July 4th Car Show Pasadena Texas Convention Center on Sunday
From: robert reason <kareokekarl_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Re: insurance questions
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

13. Question from a Newbie
From: "lyricwinn" <Lyric_at_dml_0web.net>

14. Re: Is there a Direct Replacement for the Electric rear Antenna?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. steering column bushing...
From: "Dale Schaub" <dale_at_dml_schaub.cc>

16. Re: Idle speed searching
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Horn not working
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

18. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

19. Re: Sediment in Cooling system
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Distributor Cap
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Horn not working
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

22. Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

23. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

24. I-65 Spotting
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

25. car washing at PF?
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 15:25:33 -0000
From: "cahamond" <cahamond_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: Idle cycles from 750 to 1200 RPMs after Alternator Swap and overheat problem

Last week I ordered a replacement alternator from DMC Houston.  The 
Ducy I had was overcharging the battery and I had to replace battery 
as well... The model of alternator I got from Houston is a 
Delco....  Warren sent me a copy of the Service Bulletin for 
replacing the alternator....  I also checked the archive messages 
here as well.... I didn't want to cut all the wiring back to the 
wiring harness plug, so I capped off the brown wire down by the 
alternator and connected/spliced the new single wire plug that came 
with the new alternator to the yellow/brown wire.  So, I have 2 
questions.  1. Is this the correct procedure from going from a 2 
wire connect to the 1 wire connection??? and 2. If this is, why is 
it that now my idle constantly cycles from 750 to 1200, the engine 
is rough and now my fans don't kick on until 240 degrees?  I have 
the fanzilla installed and have never had any problems with it. None 
of this happened until I swapped out the alternator??? Is this just 
a coincidence that all this happened after the swap??? Can you all 
point me in a direction to start looking for the problem?  Thanks.




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 10:43:27 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing

The centrifugal weights were limited in the initial installation of the
turbocharger and I'd guess the J&S knock sensor was added later. The weights
should have had the restriction removed at that time. My experience with the
early J&S knock sensors was not very good. They do have adjustments as to
the amount of retard and the units sensitivity. If you have one of the later
all digital units it may be more reliable but when I used one of the early
units during the warmer temperature months it was impossible to get an
adjustment that wouldn't reduce the power to the point it defeated any gains
the turbocharger offered. It also killed the ignition at various times and
the engine would sputter and then regain itself after a second. It got
pretty scary in heavy traffic and I finally removed it and went back to
restricting the movement of the centrifugal weights.

Bruce Benson


>I removed the distributor
> and discovered that the centrifugal weights have been >intentionaly
> limited in their motion.  The ignition has a J&S knock >sensor module
> so I assume that the timing must controlled only by >vacuum and the
> knock sensor and not by rpms.  > Regards




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 15:44:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

There is no inherent problem with the brake set-up on the Delorean.
Unless you are racing the car and are VERY heavy on the brakes they
are fine with no squeak or squeal. Maybe it is your driving style, the
way you actually do the repair work or the parts you are using. You
cannot go to the local auto store and expect to get the "correct" pads
and shims. I would recomend you go to one of the Delorean venders and
get what they suggest and install it all at once they way they tell
you to. Remember, after you do a brake job you must be gentle on the
brakes for a while to let everything "bed" together. If you immediatly
go out and do a couple of panic stops to test it out you will glaze
the pads and start the whole squeal sequence all over again. Stay away
from drilled rotors, they are inherently noisier. Ventilated would be
nice but under normal driving conditions are not necessary. If you
don't drive the car much and it is in a very damp area the rotors rust
a little in between and get noisy for a while until you wear the rust off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
> brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front
brakes
> while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped
rotors.
> I've probably changed the pads somewhere in the neighbourhood of 20
times
> in the past 4 years of ownership, and I've tried every kind out there.





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 12:11:45 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Thermotime Switch Question


I had a sticky idle-speed motor last year, which caused a no-start condition (no air!).  I believe holding down the gas pedal while starting disengages the idle-speed microswitch, and opens the idle-speed-motor valve, allowing air into the motor to start.  That's what I was told last year, anyway.

-Hank

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:25:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Pilcic <chrisdmc82_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: XM radio

Hank, 

we were in naperville illinois a few weeks ago.. a
couple of guys had xm and mounted their antenna on
their louvers... looked pretty good.. the only problem
they were having was running and hiding the wire...
one owner from minnisota put his remote into the
center console where the clock is in some cars.. he
drilled it out and it fit great, it looked pretty
good, i hope this helps.. 

chris 
--- Hank <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have satellite radio? Where and how did
> you mount the antenna?
> 
> A last minute "enhancement" before leaving for PF.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Hank
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 10:54:50 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

Christina, When you depress the pedal what kind of noise is the front
making, Squeaking, grinding noise or chatter. As far as the parking brake,
there is an adjustment to keep them from even touching the rotor when
driving.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean_at_dml_framezero.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 11:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Wanted: Completely different brake setup


Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front brakes
while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped rotors.
I've probably changed the pads somewhere in the neighbourhood of 20 times
in the past 4 years of ownership, and I've tried every kind out there.
I've replaced the rotors, turned the rotors, replaced the parking brake
pads, different shims, different springs, different clips, different
compounds, and still I get squeaking, rubbing, chirping etc.

Basically, I want out. :)

Has anyone ever found different calipers and rotors that will fit on a
DeLorean, but are not the calipers and rotors that the vendors carry?
Vented, slotted, and drilled are of course preferable, but at this point,
I'll try anything that anyone can think of.

Thanks everyone. Oh, have fun in Pigeon Forge! I'm sorry I'll be missing
it.

-Christian




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:01:22 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Idle speed searching

Richard, The 02 sensor is trying to bring it back to a 14.5 to 1 air to
fuel, but since it's to far out it can't centerline it. The seeking tells me
the circuit is working it just needs a little help. Get the car hot by
driving it around the block a few times and adjust the 02 till you have as
smooth of an idle as you can get. That will be close and the seeking should
go away pending no other problems. It's also best to do this with a new 02
sensor.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard [mailto:dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 10:49 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Idle speed searching


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Now that you don't have the restrictive air flow by an original
filter or a
> stock replacement the mixture is leaner and may need readjusting.
The K&N
> and the Blue filter are the least restrictive for more air flow.
This tells
> you it's working.
> John
>
>
>
Yeah, but wouldn't that cause the O2 sensor reading to change, thereby
prompting the system to automatically re-adjust the mixture by itself?

Richard Rowe
VIN 5853




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:57:09 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: RE: insurance questions

It appears to me that a number of car insurance companies are guilty of
purposefully suckering you in with a low ball figure only to know that once
you are signed up they are going to increase the premiums to where they want
then in the first place. They must figure, and they are probably correct in
figuring so, that enough people will just pay the higher premium rather than
go through all the hassle of switching to another company. I believe the
company I'm with now did that to me, and, every year they keep increasing
the premiums. I think it's just the way they do business. 

Joe Thome
VIN 6465   

-----Original Message-----
From: sebastain_valmont [mailto:orentha_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 2:32 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] insurance questions

Hi.
I know this has been covered before, but I searched and nothing came 
up when I searched for "insurance"

I just got my Hagerty renewal in the mail today.
And my premium used to be $340 for the year, full coverage, $18K 
agreed coverage.

Now my premium has been raised to $649.
I called them to complain about it, but it's because I've under 26 
years old, and "to provide the best possible coverage to the broadest 
possible group of collectors" blah blah blah, they have to raise the 
premiums.
I've been with them 5 years, and have submitted no claims or 
anything, and I get screwed for it...

So can some of you guys recommend any other classic insurers for me.
There is no way I'm going to pay Hagerty double my old premium...
That's bs.

Thanks for the input




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:38:45 EDT
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Looking for Delorean Manual

Hello List

        I know there are 3 manuals(Parts,Workshop,Factory Bulletins) 
sale from Our venders. But one I am looking is a different from those.
I dont know what should I call that manual, However, I am sure that 
is exist. The manual shows work hours for repair job in DMC dealer
it is all I know.

       Please anyone in list tell me which one. and if you know 
please tell me how to get it. 

Thanks for any help 

Blacknight





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 12:05:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: robert reason <kareokekarl_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: July 4th Car Show Pasadena Texas Convention Center on Sunday

HELLO FRANK! I HAVE DELOREAN MAGNETS TO SELL WITH
(HAPPY 4TH OF JULY LOGO ON THEM). IF YOUR INTERESTED!
I WILL SEND YOU A PICTURE.
--- Frank <montlyfool_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Would like to see a few Deloreans this year...
> 
> Trophies will be presented in all classes, and five
> prestige award 
> winners will be named. Pasadena Mayor John Manlove
> will bestow a 
> mayor's choice award onto his favorite vehicle, and
> spectators will 
> have the chance to give their pick the community
> choice award. Other 
> awards include best display and best of show.
> 
> The city has taken measures to see that this year's
> car show is 
> significantly larger than last year's by teaming up
> with O'Reilly 
> Auto Parts to make the event attractive to a wider
> range of 4th Fest 
> visitors.
> 
> Trophies will be presented in all classes, and five
> prestige award 
> winners will be named. Pasadena Mayor John Manlove
> will bestow a 
> mayor's choice award onto his favorite vehicle, and
> spectators will 
> have the chance to give their pick the community
> choice award. Other 
> awards include best display and best of show.
> 
> Anyone who is interested in entering the car show
> should contact the 
> Pasadena Parks and Recreation Department office at
> (713) 740-7062 to 
> request an entry form, or visit the office at 3111
> San Augustine to 
> pick one up. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 



	
		
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 14:36:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: insurance questions

Good comments on factors which influence insurance rates. One other influence is credit rating.

Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:A note on the semi-annual insurance threads - the most important 
factors on insurance (when comparing approximately the same car and 
the same coverage) are your driving record, age and where you live. 
These can cause differences in the hundreds of percents. If you don't 
mention these three things, comparisons and discussions are 
completely meaningless. 

A 21-year-old with chargeable accidents living in Chicago can pay 10 
times the amount of a 50 year-old with a clean record living in Iowa, 
on the same car for the same coverage. 

If you raise your comprehensive deductible that has a huge impact on 
the cost too. Be sure to include the coverage amount, for example one 
person may carry 100K liability and another $1M. They won'e be paying 
the same. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sebastain_valmont" 
wrote:
> Hi.
> I know this has been covered before, but I searched and nothing 
came 
> up when I searched for "insurance"
> 
> I just got my Hagerty renewal in the mail today.
> And my premium used to be $340 for the year, full coverage, $18K 
> agreed coverage.
> 
> Now my premium has been raised to $649.
> I called them to complain about it, but it's because I've under 26 
> years old, and "to provide the best possible coverage to the 




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Yahoo! Groups Links









		
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 21:53:57 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

CALL P.J. GRADY!!!! Grady sells the ONLY set of brake pads I've ever
installed that run quiet on my car! Order a full set of pads, and the
anti-squeal kit. Then just scuff up the rotors with some 80 grit
sandpaper to remove the any glaze. As a bonus, I can also tell you
that Grady's pads are also the only ones that have been able to
eliminate brake fade after hard, extended braking when slowing down
from 100+ mph speeds. I've got cross-drilled rotors, and still have
the same problem that you do! But whatever brand that Grady uses
eliminated all that.

Call Grady, and get his kit! While you're at it, get a set of
Stainless Braided brake lines. They will increase braking power even
more, without having to install larger rotors, and calipers. Larger
rotors and calipers are good, and something like this would most
definetly peak my interest. But I also want to keep the weight down as
much as I can.

As for your parking brakes, just make sure that you don't clamp them
down when adjusting the pads. If they touch only slightly, that's
fine, but they'll still need a bit of time to wear down. But if you
feel any significant resistance when turning the rotor by hand, then
you'll need to back the pads off a half-turn on the screws.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...>
wrote:
> Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this.
My
> brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy.
<SNIP>




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 20:05:42 -0000
From: "lyricwinn" <Lyric_at_dml_0web.net>
Subject: Question from a Newbie

I am wanting to replace the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and 
wires. I have all of the parts needed but I am having trouble 
getting to the plugs and accessing the distributor cap looks to be 
nothing short of a exercise in aggravation. Are there any tricks of 
the trade anyone might wish to share that will make this process a 
little simpler and easier? Thanks.

Lyric Winn
#1936




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:30:56 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a Direct Replacement for the Electric rear Antenna?

Not exactly "no problem" - I installed this one for your 
friend....There are a couple of simple mods that you need to do to 
use it. 

You have to make the hole at the top of the bracket larger, and 
rewire it a little. Most of the OEM units use a relay in the computer 
compartment to switch between up and down. The replacement one senses 
right off the radio antenna lead, so you can toss all that relay 
stuff away and just hook the sense wire right to the radio antenna control wire. (This was an aftermarket radio install too, it may be different with the OEM).

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> http://www.teptronics.com/  search for part number LN46
> 
> This is the same antenna that is sold on ebay for our cars for a 
> fraction of the price. $17.99 on the website, $59.99 on ebay.
> 
> I just recommended this to a friend on the DML and it worked on his 
> Delorean with no problem.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Friday, June 11, 2004, at 08:23  AM, Jason Perkins wrote:
> 
> > My rear electric antenna (83) has decided to stop working right 
before
> > the big trip.  I know I can purchase one from one of our D 
vendors, but
> > I probably wont get to it in time.  Does anyone know of a
> > cross-reference antenna that would work?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jason




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 15:40:03 -0700
From: "Dale Schaub" <dale_at_dml_schaub.cc>
Subject: steering column bushing...

The steering column bushing in my delorean deteriorated away several years
ago. The steering column then sheared itself off at the firewall from
rubbing against the firewall. Fortunately, my car was being backed up from a
parked position when it broke. I replaced the steering column with a new
steering column but did not know there was a bushing at the firewall. Since
the recent discussions on the steering column bushing, I ordered a bushing
and removed the steering column from the car to install it. My new steering
column also has some slight shearing at the firewall. Not sure if this is a
common problem, but I would recommend that you replace your steering column
bushing in the firewall if it is missing.




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 02:19:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed searching

Before you do a fuel adjustment, check for an often over looked 
vacuum leak at the air filter - the crankcase breather. Check the 
hoses and the seal around the plastic insert, etc. Too much leakage 
in that area can affect the idle-speed-motor's ability to "keep up" 
with the moving air-plate that meters the fuel - thus the hunt.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "johnzd81" <johnzd81_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello,
>     Just got around to replacing my air filter with a K & N style 
> filter (from Special T) and now the idle is erratic when I first 
> start the car.  It goes from about 700 to 1000 rpm for about 3 
> minutes, then levels out rock solid at 900.  I don't see any hoses 
> off, or cracked etc... and the idle was a solid 900 before the air 
> filter replacement.
> 
> Thanks
> VIN1674




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 20:42:04 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Horn not working

I need an inspection, and my horn isn't working. Any idea where to
start? Any input is appreciated, thanks!

Alex Wolf
#4608 




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 21:38:05 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

You didn't mention anything about the calipers.
Just for grins make sure you don't have a stuck caliper piston on each
wheel. Each caliper has two pistons, one on each side of the rotor. If one
of those pistons get stuck the other has to make up the movement to close
the brake pad to the rotor. There is only so much slack in the caliper
mounting to allow the whole caliper to move from the one piston. What
happens is dirt now gets in behind the non functioning brake pad and
squeaks.

Just my 2 cents.
Dave Sontos
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christian Williams" <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2004 1:42 AM
Subject: [DML] Wanted: Completely different brake setup


> Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
> brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front brakes
> while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped rotors.
> I've probably changed the pads somewhere in the neighbourhood of 20 times
> in the past 4 years of ownership, and I've tried every kind out there.
> I've replaced the rotors, turned the rotors, replaced the parking brake
> pads, different shims, different springs, different clips, different
> compounds, and still I get squeaking, rubbing, chirping etc.





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 02:52:43 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sediment in Cooling system

IMHO using any sort of flush product is asking for trouble. Open the 
block drains and flush with a garden hose at the output hose opening 
in each head by the waterpump. Flush all components with all the 
hoses off (you should replace them). After a water flush, running 
the car for a few months with good coolant will clean up a lot of 
scale. You will probably want to drain and water-flush again in a 
year or so. If there is a lot of scale you may want to water flush 
the radiator separately. Back-flushing with plain water is most 
effective.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I found something called Prestone:super flush and my automotive 
> store. It says it will remove deposits from the cooling system. I 
> haven't tried it out though since my engine actually need to run 
> before I can put this in :)
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" 
<jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> 
> wrote:
> > DO NOT PUT LIQUID PLUMBER NEAR YOUR ENGINE. Liquid plumber 
contains
> > little pieces of aluminum and sodium hydroxide which together 
with 
> water
> > react vigorously.  The pipes in your house are not aluminum and 
can 
> take
> > this reaction.  A little liquid plumber on your engine mixed 
with 
> water
> > could feasibly eat a hole through the aluminum.  It is true that 
> liquid
> > plumber is occasionally used to remove anodized coatings from 
> aluminum,
> > but the parts are typically soaked in an open area and rinsed 
with
> > copious amounts of water very quickly.  The people that use 
draino 
> and
> > other acid/alkaline solvents on aluminum are making a deal with 
the
> > devil.  I would try sanding the sediment out if you can get to 
it, I
> > realize it is within the pipes, so this might not be a feasible 
> option,
> > there are some chemicals, which would be safe such as paint 
> thinner, or
> > brake clean, these will remove organic deposits, but would 
probably 
> not
> > be things you would want to put in the pipes while the car the 
> running.
> > 
> > See you in PF
> > 
> > Joe P.
> > VIN 17167 6808
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Message: 6
> >    Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 13:25:47 -0500
> >    From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
> > Subject: RE: Sediment in Cooling system
> > 
> > Liquid Plumber?
> > Some other solvent?
> > (Use at your own risk, I have no idea what this would do!)
> > -VB




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 23:29:27 -0000
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Distributor Cap

I know that it has been covered many times before but I cannot seem 
to find it on a search.  My car only has 12K miles and it seems to be 
lugging at lower RPM's (under 2,500) and I thought that a new set of 
wires, cap and coil might help as the installed products are the 
originals and it might be time for an update.  I changed the plugs 
already with no real help.

I do not understand how to get the cap off without taking half of the 
engine apart.  Is there a simple way to do it?  I am really nervous 
about taking off the fuel distributor as I do not want to do anything 
to it that would screw up the fuel system.

Thanks,

Scot
6452




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 23:32:01 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Horn not working

Check the connections that plug into the horns directly.   Basically crawl 
under the front of the car, unhook the wire to each horn and clean the 
connections.   Reconnect and see if that fixed it.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 03:35:30 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)

It started out innocently enough: I wanted to do a tune up. So I
bought plugs, wires cap & rotor from one of our DeLorean vendors and
replaced them tonight. In doing so, I bumped those brass idle screws a
little. Not much, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn at most, but I bumped the back
two. I tried to put them back as best as I could.

My car won't run now. Fires right up, starts to settle into idle and
dies. The brass screws had already been opened by the previous owner,
so at this point I decided to play with them. Tried closing them,
tried various open positions. Some let the car run for 3 seconds.
Others for 1 second. 

Then I closed them back down and the rear one just sheared right off.
I didn't use force in tightening it, but it broke anyway. It's all the
way closed and I can't adjust it anymore. Can a machine shop drill it
out? What should I do?

Please help. I'm lost.

Notes: 

- All fuel lines and plug wires are correct. I labeled and
triple-checked everything when I did the tune up.

- The car was getting too much fuel when I bought it, I think. It went
"blubBlubBlubBlub" when you let off the gas. I was hoping to fix this
with the tune up, but now that it doesn't stay running for more than 3
seconds...

-Ryan





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 23:14:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

On Sat, 12 Jun 2004, Christian Williams wrote:

> Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
> brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front
> brakes while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped
> rotors.

You ought to be able to find a pad that doesn't squeal.  But since you say 
you have tried many, perhaps not.

If the rotors are warped it may be due to improper tightening of the lugs.  
They must be hand-tightened in the proper order or the rotors can warp.  
Using an air wrench will ruin them (plus make them impossible to get off 
if you ever need to change a tire in the field).  Of course you can still 
use the air wrench to remove them.  This is the only way in which the 
DeLorean brakes are unique, they are just parts-bin brakes.  But they are 
good parts-bin brakes - when working correctly they are better than just 
about any car of the era and, other than the absence of antilock, better 
than most modern vehicles as well.

Because the brakes are so good, there aren't really any brake upgrades
available.

It is possible that your brakes are defective in some nonobvious way.  You 
might see if you can beg or borrow some new calipers - especially if one 
side has more problems than the other.

> Vented, slotted, and drilled are of course preferable, but at this
> point, I'll try anything that anyone can think of.

Drilled aren't really preferable.  Drilled rotors crack, and the original
reason for drilling rotors (to allow gas coming out of the pads to escape)
is not relevant with modern brake pads.  They are still used on
motorcycles and race cars, but this is to save weight, not to improve
braking performance.

Slotted rotors are sort of the same way, but they don't make your rotors 
crack quite so much.  The primary advantage is that they look fast.  Of 
course, unless you have aftermarket wheels, you won't even get that...




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:41:28 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: I-65 Spotting

    Hi All, 

            Was anyone on the list heading south on I-65 between Lafayette and Indy around 5:00 saturday evening? I was heading north so I couldn't flash a key at 
you or anything. Just curious if your on here or not.

    
              Have fun in Pigeon Forge. Unfortunatly I already had plans to go to 
Arkansas that weekend. I'm kicking myself in the butt now. 

                                       Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:33:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: car washing at PF?

I apologize if this has already been addressed, but are there facilities where we can wash our cars in Pigeon Forge? Myself and most DeLorean owners I know prefer the self serve car washes specifically. I just know after a 4 hour drive through the south my car will need a good bath before I'd want to let anyone see it LOL.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC



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