From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2066
Date: Monday, June 14, 2004 3:55 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

2. Re: Looking for Delorean Manual
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Need To Join Different Caravan To Pigeon Forge
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Looking for Delorean Manual
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Horn not working
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

6. Pigeon Forge Caravan MD/VA/PA/DE
From: Jeremy Delaney <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>

7. Water Pump Weeping
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Caravan from the Northeast
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: July 4th Car Show Pasadena Texas Convention Center on Sunday
From: "Frank" <montlyfool_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Need To Join Different Caravan To Pigeon Forge
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

11. Re: car washing at PF?
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

12. Re: car washing at PF?
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Water Pump Weeping
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: insurance questions - Setting the record straight
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

16. Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Torsion Bars
From: "kevin_sar" <kevin.milliken_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: Water Pump Weeping
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Water Pump Weeping
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

23. Re: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

24. Window Switch Stencils - NOW AVAILABLE
From: "Mr. Copies" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>

25. Re: Looking for Delorean Manual
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 06:27:27 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)

I've made some progress (been digging through the archives):

The brass tube leading from the idle speed motor wasn't put back
together right. I fixed this. The car now runs fine if I open the
throttle a little, but still will not idle. It surges up, comes down,
almost dies, surges again, comes back down and dies. 

So I'm making progress. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated. 

In the meantime I'm trying to seal vaccumn leaks, so here are some
pictures of things I'm unsure of:

1. http://www.ryanwright.com/temp/mixture.jpg : Is this my mixture
adjustment hole? I read that this is supposed to have a plug over it.
Is this right? Do any of our vendors have this plug?

2. http://www.ryanwright.com/temp/vaccumn.jpg : Just in front of (and
somewhat below) my idle motor is a component of some sort. It's got
two fuel lines going into it, and a vaccumn line. This vaccumn line
runs for a few inches, and then there is a round plastic box (check
valve?). The vaccumn line comes out the other side of the box and just
ends, like it's been cut off. Is this supposed to go somewhere? If so,
where?

3. http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/fuelsysremove/dsc03081.jpg :
This is a capacitor of some sort. It's right next to the idle switch.
My car doesn't have one of these. Should it?

Thank you!

-Ryan




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 03:38:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for Delorean Manual

I believe what you are looking for is called the "Flat Rate & Times
Manual". I have never seen one but they should exist. Other manuals
that DO exist are the DMC Parts & Accessories Pricing Guide and the
EPA Certifacation Manual. There is also the Technical Manual which was
used for training the dealer mechanics.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, ttanaka504_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List
> 
>         I know there are 3 manuals(Parts,Workshop,Factory Bulletins) 
> sale from Our venders. But one I am looking is a different from those.
> I dont know what should I call that manual, However, I am sure that 
> is exist. The manual shows work hours for repair job in DMC dealer
> it is all I know.
> 
>        Please anyone in list tell me which one. and if you know 
> please tell me how to get it. 
> 
> Thanks for any help 
> 
> Blacknight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 04:16:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Need To Join Different Caravan To Pigeon Forge

Maryland crew isn't leaving for Pigeon Forge until Friday. Since I'd
like to be there before Midnight Thursday, if I'm to caravan it will
need to be with another group.

Is anyone else passing near DC on their way?

I'm away from my eMail so reply will have to be through the List on
Yahoo. Apologies to bandwidth...

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 01:42:25 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Delorean Manual

Hi Blacknight ,
I bought a complete set of 7 Dealer Manuals in 85 from a former dealer in the 
Chicago area. Included is a black Binder titled "Suggested Warranty Repair 
Times Manual" I think this is what you want. I don't know where you can get one.
Regards,
ralph VIN 1606


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 07:38:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Horn not working

First thing is to check and make sure that you don't have any blown
fuses. Next, check and make sure that you've got both a full 12V
source, and a decent ground connection on each horn. Start there, and
see where that leads you.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ancira Internet Department"
<alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I need an inspection, and my horn isn't working. Any idea where to
> start? Any input is appreciated, thanks!
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 02:12:35 -0400
From: Jeremy Delaney <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Pigeon Forge Caravan MD/VA/PA/DE

If anyone in the Maryland, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Deleware area 
would like to meet up with the Northeast caravan, we will be meeting for 
lunch at the Cracker Barrel off of I-66 exit 47B at 11:30am on Wednesday 
the 16th. If you need further information or have any questions please 
contact Gary Gore DmcGman(at)comcast.net
-Jeremy Delaney

-Directions-
I-66 West to Exit 47 B
Turn Right after Shell Station into Cracker Barrel  (Shell and Cracker 
Barrel are right next to each other)






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:18:50 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Water Pump Weeping

I just noticed a little bit of anti-freeze below my water pump.  I 
assume that this means the seal is going.  Is there anyway to prolong 
its usefull life, ie. so I can make it to PF (and back)?

How long will it be before it gets so bad that the car will not be 
drivable?

Dave & 6530




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 05:13:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Caravan from the Northeast

For those unfamiliar with I-81 be prepared for heavy traffic which is now as much as 40 percent trucks. Speed limits are strictly enforced,especially in work zones. Any road work or accidents cause a major traffic backup,sometimes for miles if a truck is involved in a serious wreck.  Friday afternoons and Sunday nights are the most congested times. Much routine road work is now done at night when traffic is somewhat lighter. My advice is to keep your speed within 5 miles of the posted limit unless it is a work zone in which case you should not exceed the posted limit unless you are willing to risk a ticket.

Hank <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com> wrote:
I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but if there is a caravan from the Northeast in the works, please let us know. 

If we start out in Cherry Hill on Wednesday like we did last time, I was thinking that Roanoke, VA would be a good stopping point - 360 miles from Cherry Hill. We would get in around 7 PM or so, time to have a decent meal. Then it's only 250 miles to PF on Thursday - we could arrive around noon if we leave Roanoke at 8AM. 

I'll be driving from the Boston area to South Jersey on Tuesday, in case anyone wants to join me.

For the return, I'm considering going straight through from PF to Cherry Hill on Sunday, but I don't really expect anyone to want to join me (but if you do, let me know). 

-Hank

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links






		
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:37:23 -0000
From: "Frank" <montlyfool_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: July 4th Car Show Pasadena Texas Convention Center on Sunday

Send me a picture and how much and I will let you know.

Thanks


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, robert reason <kareokekarl_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> HELLO FRANK! I HAVE DELOREAN MAGNETS TO SELL WITH
> (HAPPY 4TH OF JULY LOGO ON THEM). IF YOUR INTERESTED!
> I WILL SEND YOU A PICTURE.



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 08:50:13 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Need To Join Different Caravan To Pigeon Forge


Here is our proposed route and timing for our caravan on Wednesday.  

http://www.eskin.net/delorean/pf.htm

As Jeremy just posted, we're stopping just south of DC at about 11:30AM.

-Hank


  Is anyone else passing near DC on their way?
  Bill Robertson
  #5939


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:13:27 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: car washing at PF?

There are plenty of car washes in the area- whatever type you fancy.

Eric

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Louie G" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 1:33 AM
Subject: [DML] car washing at PF?


> I apologize if this has already been addressed, but are there facilities
where we can wash our cars in Pigeon Forge? Myself and most DeLorean owners
I know prefer the self serve car washes specifically. I just know after a 4
hour drive through the south my car will need a good bath before I'd want to
let anyone see it LOL.
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:06:18 -0000
From: "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: car washing at PF?

Yeah, the filth along after an 8+ hour drive is what makes me NOT 
want to drive mine either.

Joe

2524 & 16634




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:43:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)

#1 This IS the hole to adjust the mixture screw. The venders do sell a
plug but you can stick any cap in it to seal it. It MUST be sealed for
the motor to run right. The fact that it is not sealed means someone
messed with it and it will have to be reset correctly.
#2 That round plastic thing IS a check valve. Refer to the vacuum
diagraham on the engine cover.
#3 That is part of the radio interference package. Some cars have them
and many don't. Not all that important and you can add it.

Check the vent hose coming off the control pressure regulater. Make
sure it is not kinked or plugged up. Put the breather hose back on the
oil fill cap/breather. You are going to have to go over the whole
motor and vacuum system looking for vacuum leaks. You will never be
able to set-up the motor and get it to run right till you do. Once you
do that make sure all the systems are functioning correctly at idle.
Check the base timing, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance. Only
then will you be able to adjust the mixture screw.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> I've made some progress (been digging through the archives):
> 
> The brass tube leading from the idle speed motor wasn't put back
> together right. I fixed this. The car now runs fine if I open the
> throttle a little, but still will not idle. It surges up, comes down,





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:31:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump Weeping

Another owner nearby had a weeping water pump and used Bar's stop
Leak. It seems to have stopped it. IMHO this is s VERY temporary
solution. I would not begin a long drive with it knowing it could let
go all at once. At the very least loosen the pressure cap and don't
use the A/C to put the least pressure you can on the seal. Keep a
couple of gallons of extra water in the car and check the level 
frequently. Watch the temp gauge closely. There is no accurate way to
predict how long it will last but when it goes you will know it!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I just noticed a little bit of anti-freeze below my water pump.  I 
> assume that this means the seal is going.  Is there anyway to prolong 
> its usefull life, ie. so I can make it to PF (and back)?
> 
> How long will it be before it gets so bad that the car will not be 
> drivable?
> 
> Dave & 6530




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 15:25:45 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: insurance questions - Setting the record straight

Okay first off, both Haggerty and Condon and Skelly, along with 
others such as Grundy, and AON Collector Car are specialty companies 
that insure only special interest vehicle (though they are 
underwriten by other big-name companies). Very few Collector car (or 
Agreed Value) policies use ANY rating factors other than the cost to 
replace the car. Age, Sex, Driving history, and credit have no 
bearing on these types of policy's pricing... only on whether or not 
you qualify for the program.

The Insurance industry on whole as had a rough decade. During the 
recent Economic boom of the 90s there were quite a few claims 
happening, that weren't being rated for initially (they can't change 
rates mid-term), and the industry was in a soft period in the 
underwriting cycle. Like the stock market, the insurance industry 
sees fluctuation in price and risk appetite.
Right now, we're in a hard cycle. Underwriters are very strict, and 
prices very high. Today that is mostly due to the complete lack of 
stable investment income. If Insurer cannot rely on the investment 
your premiums normally provide they have to rely on collecting more 
premium.
Honestly, 600-700 buck PER YEAR is a phenomenal rate for a sub-25yr 
old driver.

I might recommend you raise your COLLISION deductible. Comprehensive 
has very little impact on prices in most cases.

Despite what you have personally experienced - insurance companies 
are not baiting you with low price to raise your rates later on. Nor 
are they perfunctorily raising rates every year. All but a few states 
have laws required rate changes to be filed and approved with the 
state PRIOR to use, some states even have MANDITORY RATES. The 
Insurance commisioner in any given state approves only state wide 
changes. Your rate as a 2 yr old customer with an insurance company 
is the same as any identically classed (age, location, credit, type 
of car, etcc.) new customer - to rate two identically classed 
cusotmers differently is Unfair Discrimation... which is illegal in 
all 50 states.

Despite many misconceptions by the public, the insurance industry is 
not out to get you. The rates they charge are the rates that are 
actuarily calculated that they NEED to may for thier expences running 
a business, YOUR claims, and a reasonable profit.

For the DeLorean, the best place you can be is any of the afore 
mentioned collector car companies. I like AON because they have no 
age requirement- just a driving history requirement and NO mileage 
limitations. 
100/300/100 coverages, in a no-fault state (MI), with 500 ded both 
comp and coll for a 21 yr old dr, 18 agreed value = $315 / yr
INCLUDING the Michigan state insurance fee of $100

For as many misconceptions the public has about the insurance 
industry - the average insurance agent know NOTHING about the 
DeLorean. I can't stress enough that you NEED TO READ YOUR POLICY. 
Stated Amount is NOT Agreed value. If you're with a normal insurance 
company the payout you'll get on the DeLorean in the event of a total 
loss IS IN NO WAY GUARENTEED!!! Buy Collector car insurance, it's 
cheaper and better.

Feel free to email me with questions. I'm a huge insurance dork. :P
-James LaLonde 004009




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:08:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing

Two thoughts on this:  I, like Bruce Benson, had two
of the early versions of the J&S knock sensor (infact,
I had the very first one desined for the PRV odd-fire
engine).  My experience with them was the same as
Bruce's.  I finally yanked them.

Last year I found that I "ran out of power" at higher
rpms.  A new coil (Bosch) fixed that.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

--- fgdavison <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> My Delorean has a BAE Turbo and recently I noticed a
> loss of power 
> at the higher rpms.  I checked the timing with the
> vacuum hose 
> disconnected and there was no timing advance with
> increase in RPM 
> (the vacuum advance itself worked fine).  I removed
> the distributor 
> and discovered that the centrifugal weights have
> been intentionaly 
> limited in their motion.  The ignition has a J&S
> knock sensor module 
> so I assume that the timing must controlled only by
> vacuum and the 
> knock sensor and not by rpms.  Does anyone know what
> the timing spec 
> should be?  I carefully marked everything during
> removal but would 
> like to make sure it is set up properly.  
> 
> I checked the full throttle switch too and it is ok.
>  The turbo is 
> turning.  Any ideas for the next thing to check?
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 



	
		
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 16:36:18 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

Last year I bought pads from a very old parts store, they were only
$9.99! For 4 pads to do the front! They don't make any noise at all,
and they don't even seem to be wearing that fast at all. In one year
they look pretty much the same as when I put them on-even after all
the hard braking. Also leave a minimal amount of dust behind. Of
course these are the cross referenced ones, I brought in the old pads,
and they matched the design up in a book to what numbers it is. These
were exact though- I will get the number or the brand of these pads so
you can try them for yourself-if the pad company is still in business.
When the guy gave me the box there was a thick layer of dust on it,
looks like its been sitting on the shelf for years-but they work
wonders. 10 bucks isn't a bad price to pay
to test these. Dani B. #5003




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:57:38 -0000
From: "kevin_sar" <kevin.milliken_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Torsion Bars

Torsion Bars Drivers Side (Left Hand Drive Cars) 

Re current supply, Are these available and if so at what cost?

If not has anyone looked at making then again on the UK or USA. 

I understand the Torsion bars were made out of Stainless Steel and 
lowered into Liquid Nitrogen where they were twisted through 14 full 
Revolutions. Apparently at this temperature the molecular structure 
of the steel becomes more like a crystalline structure, as they are 
twisted the Bars increase in length & gain their Spring Properties.

Can anyone confirm this? In particular were they lowered in to the 
liquid to be twisted OR were they twisted first, then put into the 
Liquid nitrogen.

Also were the Torsion Bars machined or were they cast out of 
Stainless Steel.

Any information welcomed 


Thanks 


Kevin 




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 17:32:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump Weeping

Take a closer look. Is the weeping actually out of the small (1/8")
hole under the pulley, or is it from behind the water pump i.e. on 
top of the block? If it's the pump itself you have **some** leeway, 
but if it's coming from behind it's either a hose or one of the pipes 
back there, which seem to be a much riskier proposition. 

Unfortunatly you won't get much warning, it will just let go kind of 
all at once with much drama and steam. 

You didn't indicate you long you have to drive, 100 miles is a 
different story than 1000. I drove mine with a weepy radiator and 
water pump hoses for many months when I first got the car, but I'm 
not sure I'd have taken it on a long trip that way.

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I just noticed a little bit of anti-freeze below my water pump.  I 
> assume that this means the seal is going.  Is there anyway to 
prolong 
> its usefull life, ie. so I can make it to PF (and back)?
> 
> How long will it be before it gets so bad that the car will not be 
> drivable?
> 
> Dave & 6530




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:51:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump Weeping

Could be the hose in back , everything usually ends up
below the pump.

jordan

11613



--- drdhdmd <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> I just noticed a little bit of anti-freeze below my
> water pump.  I 
> assume that this means the seal is going.  Is there
> anyway to prolong 
> its usefull life, ie. so I can make it to PF (and
> back)?
> 
> How long will it be before it gets so bad that the
> car will not be 
> drivable?
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 


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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 13:38:53 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

In a message dated 6/14/04 8:26:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org writes:


> If the rotors are warped it may be due to improper tightening of the lugs.  
> They must be hand-tightened in the proper order or the rotors can warp.  
> Using an air wrench will ruin them (plus make them impossible to get off 
> if you ever need to change a tire in the field). 

Actually you can use something called a 'torque stick' with an impact and 
that is NOT something that will damage the wheels.  

i think most people see greasy mechanic guys with an impact and they assume 
they are just putting the wheels on 'full force'.  i would highly doubt any 
tire shop is stupid enough to put a wheel on w/o a torque stick (which are 
available in 65lbs).  personally at home i have a mechanical torque wrench.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 13:52:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo and distributor timing

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004, Dick Ryan wrote:

> engine).  My experience with them was the same as
> Bruce's.  I finally yanked them.

I do want to chip in and say that the current versions of the J&S knock 
sensors are quite good.  I have not used them on a DeLorean, but they are 
a staple of the aftermarket performance world.  They are especially 
useful on conversions from distributors where there is no electronic 
spark control in the stock setup.  Modern engines have computer controlled 
timing and built-in knock sensors, the J&S can give you some of those 
benefits even though they are not part of the original design.




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:02:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Wanted: Completely different brake setup

Thank you for all the comments and ideas. I'll repsond to all the points,
because I still don't feel any closer to an answer.

David,
Yeah, I do seem to be in the vast minority of owners as far as brake noise
is concerned. I'm not racing the car and I only panic stop if there's a
need to (maybe twice since I've owned the car). I've never purchased any
brake components from anyone other than PJ Grady, Houston, or Garden
Grove. Point noted on the ventilated rotors, but at the same time, I
shouldn't be hearing these noises under normal driving conditions - but I
do. My car is a daily driver (thus the daily frustration). I just had the
rotors turned about two months ago, so they aren't rusted.

John,
The front brakes squeal when coming to a complete stop. There's no
grinding or chatter. The thing that drives me crazy about the parking
brake is that there is so little travel. If I get the pads to close, they
chirp as the high point of the rotor comes around. If I back it off to
where the chirping stops, the parking brake doesn't move enough to engage
the rotor when parking. Somehow, right now the parking brake will only
hold the car on a perfectly flat surface - yet I'm getting the chirps as
well.

Robert,
I've used PJ Grady brake pads as well. I've spoken with Rob on the phone
about the specific squealing problem and he sent me out his best pads.
This was probably a couple years ago. I don't know if the pads you speak
of are something new that he carries. I'll give him a call. SS brake lines
sound good. Squeaking and chirping aside, more braking power sounds like a
good upgrade.

Dave,
The fronts only squeal when braking to a stop and the rears chirp whenever
they want to (usually most frequent when turning right). Pulling up on the
parking brake changes the sound, so I'm sure it's the parking brake pads
rubbing. A stuck caliper would squeal all the time, correct?

William,
No shop has touched the wheel lugs since I've been on the latest warpath
to stop the noise. I always hand tighten. Also, while I was doing the rear
rotors, I couldn't really understand how overtightening the lugs could
warp the rotor. Can anyone shed some light on the physics of this?

Thanks everyone. Please keep the ideas coming. Maybe I'm overlooking
something. I know that most cars don't exhibit this excruciatingly
frustrating behaviour and I know that it "shouldn't" be happening, but it
is. From where I'm standing now, the only real hope seems to be a
completely different setup. But I'm hopeful. I'm a young owner and don't
have the experience that a lot of you on the list have. Hopefully I can
get this sorted out one way or the other.

-Christian


On Sun, 13 Jun 2004, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> There is no inherent problem with the brake set-up on the Delorean.
> Unless you are racing the car and are VERY heavy on the brakes they
> are fine with no squeak or squeal. Maybe it is your driving style, the
> way you actually do the repair work or the parts you are using. You
> cannot go to the local auto store and expect to get the "correct" pads
> and shims. I would recomend you go to one of the Delorean venders and
> get what they suggest and install it all at once they way they tell
> you to. Remember, after you do a brake job you must be gentle on the
> brakes for a while to let everything "bed" together. If you immediatly
> go out and do a couple of panic stops to test it out you will glaze
> the pads and start the whole squeal sequence all over again. Stay away
> from drilled rotors, they are inherently noisier. Ventilated would be
> nice but under normal driving conditions are not necessary. If you
> don't drive the car much and it is in a very damp area the rotors rust
> a little in between and get noisy for a while until you wear the rust off.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> > Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. My
> > brakes are noisy. Unbelievably noisy. Sometimes it'll be the front
> brakes
> > while stopping, or the parking brake pads rubbing the ever-warped
> rotors.
> > I've probably changed the pads somewhere in the neighbourhood of 20
> times
> > in the past 4 years of ownership, and I've tried every kind out there.
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>









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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 13:58:26 -0400
From: "Mr. Copies" <mike_at_dml_mrcopies.com>
Subject: Window Switch Stencils - NOW AVAILABLE

After a barage of emails I've re-issued the Window Switch Stencil kits.

These easy to use stencils allow you to repaint the arrows on your switches fast.
Includes full color instructions.  Each kit allows you to repaint BOTH window switches.

To order visit:
http://www.mydelorean.com/main.html


I'll also be bringing a handful of stencil kits to PIGEON FORGE - just stop and talk to me some time during the show.

thanks

mike

VIN#17089

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 15:59:03 EDT
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Delorean Manual



   Thank you very much for answering my questions. I am more than 
happy to know the manual name.  

   It is always nice to know there are many nice and knowledge guys in
the DML.

Blacknight


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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