From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2072
Date: Friday, June 18, 2004 6:16 PM

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Sandpaper
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

2. Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Hello from Pigeon Forge...
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Re: Sandpaper
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. rear quarter panel bracket mods?
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Heater Not Working
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: Constantly blowing the #1 fuse... help please
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Pictures are Awesome from DeLorean Car Show 2004 - Pigeon Forge Tennessee
From: "Frank" <delorean_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Legends turbo and frame
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 22:57:32 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Sandpaper

Well, I got sandpaper, 180 grit because I couldn't find 120 anywhere.
The first panel I did was the drivers front quarter panel. It came out
pretty good. I sanded it, then used the blending pad, then cleaned it
with Stainless Steel Magic. All the panels after that didn't come out
too well. They are still very shiny. I think that its best to take one
panel at a time, because it can get VERY tiring.

Alex Wolf
#4608

 




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 05:22:54 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade

Oh no personal issue, just I prefer Rob's kits because there is no 
modification required to install them. The relays all plug in the 
same way of course, but For less money ($145) you get all Bosch 
relays also, the circuit breakers made with the correct tabs so no 
cutting & soldering is required to install them, the newer fan fail 
fused jumper.

The eBay kits require the wiring to be cut and soldered, and the 
fain fail relay looks nicer albeit, but it is in danger of melting 
down and causing a fire as it still doesn't carry the voltage 
effeciently. 

Plus with the added benefit of safety & saving money, & saving your 
wiring so you donn't have a hack job, you also get to support our 
wonderful vendors who are there for us when we have problems, and 
not the ebay guy who will be gone shortly once the market thins for 
his products.

Sor for my money, safety, origonality, and ease of install I choose 
Rob's kits. No personal vendetta against the ebay guy, just Robs are 
much better and cost less, so it is a no-brainer.

That's about it in a nutshell.

Joe from PF

2524 & 16634




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 05:25:30 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Hello from Pigeon Forge...

Looks like Pigeon Forge is turning out quite nice down here. Sorry 
to all those who couldn't make it down. Hopefully we'll see you next 
year.

For the first day we are having quite a descent turnout. 50-75 
Deloreans so far I believe at last count. The D-rex is here, as well 
as three BTTF cars, four if you count the one in the cars of the 
stars museum. Some nice mods on the yellow D of Ron & Cheryl wester 
that are new this year. A nice little 3M presentation on clear 
hillbilly bondo, aka clear duct tape. It was great to see Dave's car 
finished and running after all these years, way to go Dave!

Even have a a father & a son from Hawaii and more coming from 
overseas tomorrow. What a great bunch Delorean people are. Plus the 
hundreds of gawkers rolling in off the street to look at all the 
cars. One vehicle which is a work in progress is the Delorean where 
the owner has polished the stainless with 400 grit sandpaper to a 
mirror literally. What a sight to see there. 

Tomorrow is the Dragon Run around 9:00 am, hopefully it will all go 
ok and no one will drive off a cliff showing off. Looks to be fun as 
long as the traffic holds off, quite heavy down here. PF is kinda 
like all the little shops that are strewn about around the beaches, 
but with no beach.

Well after driving over 1,000 miles today, I am beat so I'll cut 
this one short. Gotta get a little sleep soon.

And with all the trouble I was having with the fuses on the 
councours car, I still couldn't keep it running enough to get it on 
a trailer and haul it to PF. Maybe next time? I just drove down and 
intend on enjoying the show, and socializing with friends.

Talk to everyone later,


Joe O'Brien from PF

2524 & 16634




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 08:11:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Sandpaper

I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN UNTIL JUNE 23, THANKS JOHN

-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 11:09 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Sandpaper


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
<SNIP>
You will notice
> right after you do this the surface will seem too shiny. It takes
> several days for the shine to go away. My theory is the surface
> oxidizes slightly when in contact with the air.
<SNIP>

That's not theory, that really is what happens. Stainless steel
oxidizes (like rust) when exposed to the atmosphere. However, in a
nutshell, the Chromium in stainless oxidizes to the surface and
creates a very thin film. This then seals the steel, and prevents
further oxidation. In the process, the stainless will become darker.
I'm not 100% sure if this is because you're now looking at the
oxidized layer itself, or if it's so thin that it's transparent, and
filters light. But rest assured, that it will match the rest of the
car within a week's time.

When performing touch-up work, you MUST resist the urge to make the
entire car have a universal sheen. Forget handprints, that's the
hardest part of maintaining the metal finish on your car!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 07:20:59 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: rear quarter panel bracket mods?

I took off my left rear fender to clean out underneath it and treat 
the badly damaged fiberglass. Now putting it back on it will no 
longer align with the top two attaching holes (non OEM holes probably 
done by the PPO) Both of my brackets have been cut down and 
repositioned (through new holes in fiberglass pontoons) for some 
reason. I do remember vaguely reading something about modifing the 
back of the car for the rear fascia to fit properly. Is this the case 
I have or is this another screwy fix done to my car (the first owner 
took the car to a back-water repair shop and did alot of stupid 
things to my car) I moved one of the brackets back to its original 
spot and aligned perfectly to the fender (except there is no plastic 
tab to screw it in). I really don't know what they were thinking.

Jason
2256




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 08:15:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Heater Not Working

I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN UNTIL JUNE 23, THANKS JOHN

-----Original Message-----
From: thebrave65 [mailto:johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 11:36 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Heater Not Working


I know it's summer, and I live in Arizona, but since I am replacing
my radiator and fushing the system out, now is a good time to fix
this.

The fans blow properly in the footwell but no heat.

How do I check to see if anything is wrong with the heater core?
Visual inspection?  I know where the hoses are that lead into/out of
it but not much more.

I have already flushed out the system and had clear water rinsing out
the header bottle in both directions, but I'm not sure if I need to
do anything extra for the heater.

Johnny
5518




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 08:13:33 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Constantly blowing the #1 fuse... help please

I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN UNTIL JUNE 23, THANKS JOHN

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe OBrien [mailto:joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 3:07 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Constantly blowing the #1 fuse... help please


Well, some success so far, I managed to get it started by unplugging
the vacuum solenoid, moved it out of the garage to work on it in
better light, and before I hit the end of the driveway I heard
the "pop" of the #1 fuse again, that was all she wrote, dead again.

Now with the vacuum solenoid unplugged it STILL blows the #1 fuse
now just as before, as soon as I turn the key to acc. Do you have
another suggestion to try to get this somewhat driveable long enough
to get on a trailer? Thanks Martin, and anyone else with a
suggestion they may have.

I have until about 10pm eastern time to get it running before I
depart for PF, and I'd hate to not participate in the concours
because of a damn tempermental fuse. And it just started this
yesterday too, so I haven't had much diagnosis time either.


Thanks everyone,

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634





Try unplugging the vacuum solenoid behind the metering head. This
can go
> bad and will blow #1 fuse. The car can be driven with this
unplugged,
> but it will pull advance at idle and rev a bit fast. Driving will
be
> fine, as that only switches on at idle.
>
> Martin




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 15:32:24 -0000
From: "Frank" <delorean_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Pictures are Awesome from DeLorean Car Show 2004 - Pigeon Forge Tennessee

So far the pictures are fantastic! Look forward to seeing more.
Thanks for sharing with us who are stuck at home...

Frank

http://www.frankguhlin.com/delorean.html




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 17:47:37 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Legends turbo and frame

Dear List,
  Although by this time many of you are gone to PF and enjoying the 
car show. I have always wondered what happened to the experiments the 
the orginal Delorean builders did. When I read the Stainless Steel 
Illusion book. It showed a picture of a (twin?) turbo Delorean 
engine. It also showed a photo of a stainless steel frame saying that 
they wanted to put them in the cars but they were too expensive. What 
happened to the steel frame and the legends turbo?
  You guys may see the turbo car but just curious about that frame.
    Wish I was at PF,
       Kramer
       ~10610




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