From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2084
Date: Friday, June 25, 2004 8:42 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Windshield Trim
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

2. Re: 25th Anniversary DCS (Tech Sessions)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: T-panel foam
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: 25th Anniversary DCS
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

5. RE: Buying from Vendors (was:T-panel foam)
From: "MATTHEW D SPITTLE" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

6. Front air dam... Was: TOBY-TAB's are IN!
From: danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com

7. Re: Engine "sputter"
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Engine "sputter"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Another hard starting case
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. RE: Another hard starting case
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: Engine "sputter"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Vac Solenoid
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Carburetor intakes?
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. Re: Another... Cold Start Problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: Another... Cold Start Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. RE: Dash/Binnacle update
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Legend Turbo question
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

18. RE: StS Sealer?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. RE: Re: Oil pan gasket cross reference?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. RE: Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Coil Cover ...... door mirrors and side vents ....Wanted!!
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

22. RE: Windshield Trim
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

23. DMC Houston's "New" DeLorean and INSTRUMENTATION
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

24. help
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

25. Re: Re: 25th Anniversary DCS (Tech Sessions)
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 17:33:13 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Windshield Trim

Did you spray it on or actually paint it? Noone laugh now, I am new at
this :)

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Auto Groups
210-231-4214
210-681-4900


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net [mailto:mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]

Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 4:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Windshield Trim

You can remove the trim by peeling the outer door seals back to access
screws
holding the trim to the underbody.  You might as well keep peeling the
door
seals back and taking off the side trim, because once the top is
repainted, 
the sides won't match.  I used a standard semigloss black to refinish
mine.

To put the door seals back on, use black 3M weatherstrip cement.  Follow
the directions on the tube - yes you really do let it dry on the trim
and the
seal before sticking them together.  Make sure the seal is in the right
place, 
because this glue has got GRIP.  Get a can of the 3M adhesive remover to

take the old glue off of the door seals and the windshield trim.   

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Alex Wolf" : -------------- 
> The paint is chipping off the trim around the top of the windshield.
What is 
> the process to repaint this? Does the windshield need to be removed?
What 
> paint should be used? Thanks! 
> 
> Alex Wolf 
> Internet Manager 
> Ancira Dealerships 
> #4608 
> 210-681-4900 
> 210-231-4214 (Direct) 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:52:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: 25th Anniversary DCS (Tech Sessions)

Ditto on the tech sessions. While you all were in the convention
center, I spent most of Saturday working in the parking lot (other
people's cars -- made my mess on Friday). I don't think general public
minds the tools. In fact they seem mesmerized to actually see repairs
being made, especially on such an "exotic" car. 

Had a tech session Sunday in the IHOP parking lot before caravaning
home too. 

Speaking of which: does ANYONE have a lead to contact the Georgia
owner I never finished assisting? Best I've come up with is "Casey" --
no address, no phone number, no eMail. See Message #42427.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> How about a some tech sessions set up at a local garage with lifts 
> and tools? After the long drive to PF there were quite a few repairs 
> going on in the parking lot. I am sure that other owners would jump 
> at the chance to give someone a hand in a full repair facility with a 
> chance to learn how the repair was done.
> 
> Examples of some sessions:
> Door adjustments
> Duel exhaust setup
> replacing fuel accumulator
> removing/replacing interior parts (dash,binnacle,door panels)
> 
> Having a set area to complete repairs, or to do updates, would also 
> mean the general public would not see tools,coolant,etc in the 
> parking lot.
> 
> Just an idea
> 
> Mike
> 17084




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 19:42:39 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: T-panel foam

In a message dated 6/23/04 10:40:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu writes:


> What kind of foam is used for underneath the T-panel?  Can I get 
> this at Lowes?  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604

No but you can get it from a DeLorean vendor.  it is specially shaped and 
molded for this single application.  you could try using window insulation but 
your results will not be as satisfactory (and the T panel will probably be too 
low or too high).

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 20:57:19 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: 25th Anniversary DCS

One thing I had a problem with at the Cleveland show was I never had time to
see the tech sessions. It seemed all the vendors were giving sessions at the
same time so you had to pick and choose which one you could go to. It would
have been better if they could give two sets of sessions, one in the morning
and then a repeat one in the afternoon or the next day. And then try to get
to the Rock & Roll museum that I paid for.

I would love to see a slide presentation of a engine conversion or of the
vixen car restoration. Maybe Rob Grady could give a presentation of removing
the heads and adjusting timing chains or something.

That's the kind of thing I want at the next DCS,

and I don't play golf.

Dave Sontos





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 18:37:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "MATTHEW D SPITTLE" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: RE: Buying from Vendors (was:T-panel foam)

106722 INSULATION, ROOF PNL $38.18 

$38 for a piece of foam, plus shipping.  That's expensive for a college student,
even one working full-time.  
  
I'm not having much luck with the vendors lately.  I basically don't buy from
the vendors unless it's DeLorean specific.  Some examples:

One time I ordered a hood latch spring from a vendor.  The cost was $2.95.  When
the spring arrived, I saw that the total sale was $17.  Yes, it was $14 for
them to ship a spring to me.  It could have fit in a regular envelope with a
single stamp.  When I installed this high quality, SEVENTEEN-DOLLAR-SPRING, it
didn't make my hood *pop* open any more than the original one did.  So, I went
to Ace Hardware, picked up a spring for $1.50, and now my hood pops open!  

Another vendor I called 3 times so far about getting door keylocks, but no luck
so far in getting back to me, and it's been almost a month.  I tried another
vendor, but they said the locks aren't available.  Oh well, it must not be that
important.     

I won't mention all the times when I was a newer owner and I found out by
calling one of the vendors that something I need wasn't available.  Well, let
me mention one...one time, I called a vendor and realized I wouldn't ever be
able to have a functioning engine compartment cover because there were no more
hinges available.  

So these are the events that inspire me to boycott the vendors for all but the
most exclusive/unreproduceable parts.  If you feel the same way I do, let me
recommend E-Bay (www.ebay.com) and Josh Haldeman (jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net) as a
source for your DeLorean parts.  Neither of the said sources ever run out of
certain parts; neither take multiple phone calls to ensure items are shipped,
and neither charges me over 4 times the cost of the total order to have it
shipped.  

Last time I checked, the DML was independently operated, without commission from
vendors(or is it?).  For this reason, I would like to respectfully ask the
moderator to add the phrase, "Go get one from the vendors." and all
permutations of that phrase, to the list of items which are caught in the net
during the moderating process.  

I've heard the argument; that if we don't buy all of our nuts and bolts from a
vendor, then we won't fund the remanufacturing of new products that aren't
available.  Well, either those new products, or the vendor's new Ferrari.  

I'm not trying to stomp on anyone's toes, but I think we need to remember
consumers drive certain merchants to sell, not the other way around.

Matt
#1604

On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 09:41:12 +0000, Travis Goodwin wrote:

> The T Panel has a custom shaped piece of foam. It's best if you just pick it
> up from a vendor, their not very expensive.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu] 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 9:37 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] T-panel foam
> 
> What kind of foam is used for underneath the T-panel?  Can I get 
> this at Lowes?  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 00:18:29 -0000
From: danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Front air dam... Was: TOBY-TAB's are IN!

Dick,
I don't remember hearing about an air dam from Toby, but for a few 
years now, I have wanted to make a custom front air dam that is 
flexible for the DeLorean. Well, I had some incentive when I hit a 
lump of rotting deer flesh in the middle of the highway when I was on 
my way to DCS in Memphis 2 years ago. It ended up putting a large 
crack in my fiberglass air dam. On this trip to PF, I hit something 
else! I don't know what it was, but I definitly ran it over, and it 
ended up putting an even bigger crack in my air dam. So now I have 
even more incentive to make this new piece. I will hopefully be 
beginning the project this summer and it will hopefully be complete 
and ready to go in a few months. Like I said, "I hope". I'll be sure 
to keep the DML posted of progress when I begin making my prototype 
and molds.

---Dan 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Toby
> 
> You have no idea how much i hated missing PF.  You
> were among many I wanted to meet in person.  The
> sudden diagnosis of breast cancer in my wife
> howevermade surgery come before vacations - - even a
> DeLorean event.
> 
> Now, as to your comment below - - are you going to
> market the "flexible" front end air dam?  If so, when?
>  I am really interested.  I have held off order the
> rest of the bocy kit until I know I dan come up with
> something for the front.
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867 
> 
> --- tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> We  really appreciate the support of the DeLorean
> community, and look forward to serving you any way we 
>    can.  
> > Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> > DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> > www.delorean-parts.com 





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 20:19:51 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine "sputter"

In a message dated 6/24/04 4:30:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_netcom.no writes:


> Hi, I'm posting this for a fellow DeLorean owner who is experiencing engine 
> "sputter". It has been like this since he got it from Sweden a few months 
> ago.
> 
> The car starts fine. Idles fine. Drives off fine. But when you actually 
> drive the car at a constant speed, and then let go of the accelerator, it 
> sputters until you press the accelerator pedal again, then it drives fine. This 
> sputtering is quite annoying.
> 

Not sure on this one but there is a deceleration valve in the intake manifold 
that is supposed to open when you take your foot off of the gas to keep 
things smooth.  perhaps this valve is hanging up or is dirty?  the shop manual 
describes it very briefly at the end of one of the sections in Fuel, Emissions

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 03:20:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine "sputter"

Refer to D:09:01, Deceletation Control. This prevents the
"sputtering". It will not be as noticeable on an automatic. Make sure
the valves are not stuck and can open against the springs.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> Hi, I'm posting this for a fellow DeLorean owner who is experiencing
engine "sputter". It has been like this since he got it from Sweden a
few months ago.
> 
> The car starts fine. Idles fine. Drives off fine. But when you
actually drive the car at a constant speed, and then let go of the
accelerator, it sputters until you press the accelerator pedal again,
then it drives fine. This sputtering is quite annoying.
> 
> It seems to me the fuel isn't getting where it should.
> 
> The fellow owner has changed everything possible, ignition wires,
fuel lines, fuel filter, injectors - you name it. Double-checked
everything and anything. It still sputters when driving the car. What
can be wrong?
> 
> Any help/hints/tips are appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Stian B. 
> Norway
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 00:30:18 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Another hard starting case

Tune up was last done in Feburary as well as brand new battery, the
cap and rotor was replaced just the other day. Since the cap and
rotor, it starts up with a little more ease-and even performs a bit
better, but I'm still going to check out the cold start valve and the
resistor wires. Any tricks in examining the cold start valve? -Thank
you all! Dani B. #5003

> I would start out by checking the operation of the cold start valve
> system. Check if it is getting power when it is cold and the engine
is
> cranking. If it is then it could be dirty or stuck or burnt out.
> Another system is the bypass relay in the primary ignition system.
It
> is supposed to bypass part of the ballast resistor when starting
for a
> hotter spark when cranking. Check the white resistor on the firewall
> that the connections are clean and tight and the relay is also clean
> and tight and working. An old, weak battery can also be part of the
> problem along with old wires, worn spark plugs, vacuum leaks, dirty,
> old cap and rotor. In other words, maybe it's time for a tune-up?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > I slowly developed a hard starting problem. The car will start
fine if
> > I drive it, and turn it off "hot", and minutes or an hour later go
> > back
> > to start it again. The problem is when I leave it overnight, and
come
> > back to it at 5 after work-my habbit is to turn the key on and
let the
> > pump start up, then crank. It takes me a few tries where I have to
> > stop cranking after about 10 seconds, usually when I let the key
go
> > and stop cranking I will hear the engine turn over a few
cylinders and
> > cut off. Then I'll crank again and the engine will slowly turn
over
> > and run. It always starts eventually, but this is an annoying
problem
> > and seems to slowly be getting worse. Any ideas? Dani B. #5003




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:43:57 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Another hard starting case

Brandon, Normally what is called Hot start is a small fuel leak down which
can happen anywhere in the fuel system. The time just depends on how bad the
leak is.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Payne [mailto:bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 11:36 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Another hard starting case


I just developed a similar problem and couldn't figure out why.  If I leave
the car for more than 3 hours, it will be difficult to start.  Especially
overnight, I have to crank it for a long time.  Yet if I come back in a few
minutes to an hour or so it will start immediately.

I think I have found the problem though.  I was examining the plug that
connects to the cold start valve.  It has always been bent over rather
sharply and I noticed the rubber was cracked above the plastic plug.  The
wire insulation had separated as well and two wires were pulled apart.  A
similar problem developed on the plug that goes to my idle speed motor.  So
far I haven't heard of this happening to anyone else, but you may want to
see if this is causing your problem.  Someone else on this list can probably
tell you an easy way to test this, I don't want to steer you wrong.

Brandon Payne
2975
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 5:22 PM
Subject: [DML] Another hard starting case


> I slowly developed a hard starting problem. The car will start fine if
> I drive it, and turn it off "hot", and minutes or an hour later go
> back
> to start it again. The problem is when I leave it overnight, and come
> back to it at 5 after work-my habbit is to turn the key on and let the
> pump start up, then crank. It takes me a few tries where I have to
> stop cranking after about 10 seconds, usually when I let the key go
> and stop cranking I will hear the engine turn over a few cylinders and
> cut off. Then I'll crank again and the engine will slowly turn over
> and run. It always starts eventually, but this is an annoying problem
> and seems to slowly be getting worse. Any ideas? Dani B. #5003
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]
>
>
>


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:24:34 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Engine "sputter"

Try checking the fuel pressure. The WUR may be bad and putting either to
much or not enough pressure in the distributor. Also make sure the fuel
filter isn't blocking fuel flow and pressure.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_netcom.no]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 3:07 PM
To: DOC UK; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine "sputter"


Hi, I'm posting this for a fellow DeLorean owner who is experiencing engine
"sputter". It has been like this since he got it from Sweden a few months
ago.

The car starts fine. Idles fine. Drives off fine. But when you actually
drive the car at a constant speed, and then let go of the accelerator, it
sputters until you press the accelerator pedal again, then it drives fine.
This sputtering is quite annoying.

It seems to me the fuel isn't getting where it should.

The fellow owner has changed everything possible, ignition wires, fuel
lines, fuel filter, injectors - you name it. Double-checked everything and
anything. It still sputters when driving the car. What can be wrong?

Any help/hints/tips are appreciated!

Thanks,
Stian B.
Norway


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 00:48:19 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Vac Solenoid

I just put on a new cap and rotor, and now when I'm driving-especially
up a hill my engine misfires terribly, it is very embarassing. Anyway,
I am suspecting the vacuum solenoid, it is the original one, still
clicks but sometimes it sounds odd when testing it. Anyway-does it
matter how the wires are connected to the solenoid?- I can't determine
if I have them on backwards or if they are on right. Is there any
other ways to better test it?  The cap and rotor are from Advance
Auto, they weren't Bosch but the parts look exactly the same, I triple
checked that all the wires were installed deep enough into the cap-I
didn't check that they were in the right order but I'll do that
tomorrow. So I don't suspect the cap-maybe I should? Thanks for all
the help - Dani B. #5003




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 02:15:30 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Carburetor intakes?

Does anyone know which vehicles intake manifold (carbureted) fits the PRV?




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 00:53:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Another... Cold Start Problem

Sounds like the thermo-time switch mounted on the waterpump is not 
functioning or, the wires are not connected well at the switch. 
Since the wire switch thing worked for you the cold-start valve is 
apparently working ok.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> My car fires up great when warm or within 15 hrs of last running. 
If I wait a day
> or so between driving it becomes hard to start... takes a while 
cranking, trys to
> fire up, when finally starts idle is high then smooths out fairly 
quickly. It has
> slowly getting worse. 
> 
> The other day it was the worst yet. Tried to start, just cranked & 
battery power
> drained way down. I thought it was my battery going bad. But a few 
seconds later
> putting the key to the accessories position the power was up to 12 
volts. Did
> this a few times with no luck.
> 
> I ended up having to do the "Hot Start" Quick Fix ( plug the 
Control Pressure
> Regulator plug into the Cold Start Valve socket ) to get it 
running. 15miles to
> work, sat all day, started up  fine at 5pm. Also started fine the 
next morning
> (thismorning). 
> 
> Is this a sign of my Cold Start Valve going bad?
> Or could it be something else?
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 03:26:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Another... Cold Start Problem

Was the humidity really high? It sounds like you need a tune-up
replacing the cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs. Under high
humidity conditions the secondary ignition system breaks down and the
spark doesn't get to the worn spark plugs. Once you get the motor a
little warm it is fine. To complete the tune-up you should also
replace the air filter, the O2 sensor, clean the fuel injectors, and
adjust the valves. You should make sure all the engine systems are
functioning, check the timing, and no vacuum leaks. Don't touch the
mixture screw. If it was properly set in the first place it should not
need to be touched.
David teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My car fires up great when warm or within 15 hrs of last running. If
I wait a day
> or so between driving it becomes hard to start... takes a while
cranking, trys to
> fire up, when finally starts idle is high then smooths out fairly
quickly. It has
> slowly getting worse. 
> 
> The other day it was the worst yet. Tried to start, just cranked &
battery power
> drained way down. I thought it was my battery going bad. But a few
seconds later
> putting the key to the accessories position the power was up to 12
volts. Did
> this a few times with no luck.
> 
> I ended up having to do the "Hot Start" Quick Fix ( plug the Control
Pressure

> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:29:03 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Dash/Binnacle update

While were waiting on Houston to produce new Binnacles,  I have had 2
covered with no lines or seen stitches. They are not on the site yet, but
soon. Over the week end.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: James Espey [mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 11:05 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Dash/Binnacle update


We'd hoped to have samples ready to show at PF, but they didn't arrive in
time for the show. It's possible that they may be at the California Classic
(http://www.californiaautofest.com) next month.

Someone emailed me about the molded plastic caps I mentioned a year or so
ago. At one time we had considered the plastic glue-on caps for a fix to the
dash/binnacle problem. The tooling costs were pretty high, and the quality
of the caps was marginal. The fit was not quite right, and the rounded shape
of the binnacle made them more difficuly to fit.

What's worse is that fact that left uncovered, they are very prone to
warping in the heat, and this is NOT covered under the warranty. The
manufacturers suggestion was to use a dashmat to cover them to help prevent
warping. We thought that solution was unacceptable.

When the samples are ready, we'll have photos online for all to see.

James


------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 04:16:46 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Legend Turbo question

This question may have been answered before, but I am going to ask it
anyway.

At the DCS 2004 a guy gave a speech about the history of the Legend
Turbo (can't remember his name). It appeared to me that the project
was either finished and ready to go or very close to it, before the
company closed.

The question is, why was it never offered as an aftermarket kit if it
was so good and also after all that money and research that went into
it. Could someone recreate one today from the original specs?

Max




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:37:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: StS Sealer?

Dani, One of the best products I have seen that will lessen the fingerprints
was made buy Eagle products. It was a water base with Teflon in it for a
gloss shine.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Dani B [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 6:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] StS Sealer?


Does anyone here know of any wax or etc. that will seal the stainless
steel panels after washing so that no marks/prints will appear from
touching-etc.? - Dani B. 5003




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:41:19 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Oil pan gasket cross reference?

Matt, If they are out of them, Then I have them for $19.95.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html




-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 11:19 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Oil pan gasket cross reference?


I should have looked a little harder.

Picked one up at Advance Auto Parts for $12.84.


Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
> Boo all you want.  Does anyone know what the DeLorean oil pan
gasket
> crosses over to?  I want to get one locally so I can finish
putting
> my engine back in my car, and hopefully for less than $34.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 23:37:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade

Joe,
Just remember the 3 legged jumper can and has overheated, melted the
insulation and cause more problems. One car caught on fire from that
problem. As for the circuit breakers. The 1/4" quick disconnects will cause
and over heating problem as they age and will also discolor the insulation
on the wires and get extremely hot. The soldered ring terminal is the best a
safest way to update the unit.
FYI
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe OBrien [mailto:joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 11:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Relay/Fuse Upgrade


Oh no personal issue, just I prefer Rob's kits because there is no
modification required to install them. The relays all plug in the
same way of course, but For less money ($145) you get all Bosch
relays also, the circuit breakers made with the correct tabs so no
cutting & soldering is required to install them, the newer fan fail
fused jumper.

The eBay kits require the wiring to be cut and soldered, and the
fain fail relay looks nicer albeit, but it is in danger of melting
down and causing a fire as it still doesn't carry the voltage
effeciently.

Plus with the added benefit of safety & saving money, & saving your
wiring so you donn't have a hack job, you also get to support our
wonderful vendors who are there for us when we have problems, and
not the ebay guy who will be gone shortly once the market thins for
his products.

Sor for my money, safety, origonality, and ease of install I choose
Rob's kits. No personal vendetta against the ebay guy, just Robs are
much better and cost less, so it is a no-brainer.

That's about it in a nutshell.

Joe from PF

2524 & 16634




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 13:08:43 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Coil Cover ...... door mirrors and side vents ....Wanted!!

Hello All

Does anyone know of a coil cover for sale ?? ( the triangular one in 
the top right of the engine bay ) and or door mirrors and the two 
side vents around the rear engine bay window?

Many Thanks

bozzzy
#2001
doc403





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 09:39:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: RE: Windshield Trim

On Thu, 24 Jun 2004, Ancira Internet Department wrote:

> Did you spray it on or actually paint it? Noone laugh now, I am new at
> this :)

...and did you strip off the remaining paint that was there first, and if 
so, how did you do it and not damage the metal?

-andrew
 (who needs to repaint his window trim, too)



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 07:30:45 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: DMC Houston's "New" DeLorean and INSTRUMENTATION

Interesting photos of what the "new" DeLorean *could* have been today...

I think someone suggested they took the instruments from Audi, but if you take a look at the photos they have the DMC logo + the instruments look like an updated version of the instruments used in the prototype DeLorean.

It's exciting to see upgrades for our beloved car, however, I have a wish that I feel is more important than new instruments and that is:

Backlit "original" instrumentation with glowing needles.

I am aware of the Speedhut conversion, but AFAIK you don't get the same typefont like the originals have, plus the annoying "Speedhut" logo. Please prove me wrong on this. If Speedhut could do identical instruments without their logo, I would be interested. But I still think the best bet is to have DMC Houston reproduce the instruments. How about it James? :-)

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland 
Norway

VIN # 06759
www.delorean.no

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 13:52:13 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: help

car in storage for over two years, i cleaned out the fuel tank, 
added new pump, filter, acculator now car will not run, i suspect 
that it isnt getting fuel since the pump only runs when engine is 
running, how do get fuel to the engine?




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 09:58:14 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 25th Anniversary DCS (Tech Sessions)

Bill,

I too notice that the number of people who had to work on their cars at 
PF.     We will discuss the possibility of a tech session or some 
availability of tools, help, work location etc.
The question would be whether people would be willing to pay for this 
service.  You would, of course have to come to the show earlier than 
Thursday.

The Tech session that DMC puts on in the Chicago area,  costs about $50 
hr per hour.  We have a mechanic in the Chicago area or one of the 
vendors may be interested.

BOB




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