From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2089
Date: Sunday, June 27, 2004 3:13 PM

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: clutch
From: "content22207" <>

2. Re: Re: Raffle car winner
From: "Jerry Harry" <>

3. Re: Re: Raffle car winner

4. Re: Re: Raffle car winner

5. Re: Backlit Instrument Cluster (was: DMCH new Interior)
From: "kaffinekrazed" <>

6. Re: Door locking system question
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

7. Re: A/C and cooling fan relays sticking
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

8. Re: Florida Delorean - Was Shipping a Delorean
From: "wannadelorean" <>

9. Rebuilding ignition distributor
From: "Matt" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:19:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: clutch

Make sure pistons in your cylinders have good seals -- you may just be
squishing fluid past them. Also ensure reservoir shutoff in the master
cylinder is working, otherwise you'll just push fluid back into it.

Slave cylinder bleeder screw is 8mm hex. Like all bleeder screws is
soft metal -- use a 6 point socket to turn it, not 12 point. Is best
accessed from above, even on my carbureted dual exhaust setup. You may
have to climb on top of your engine to reach it. A 12" extension
really helps.

I have a 1 man bleeder hose I use for all my hydraulics -- inserted a
ball check valve into it. Allows me to pump away without worrying
about sucking air backwards.

Be careful not to pump the reservoir dry, otherwise you'll introduce
air from the other end.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> O.K. guys I need advise once more, my car has been in storage for 
> over 2 years I now have it running however the clutch will not work. 
> I filled up the reservoir with fluid now I must bleed it. Problem, I 
> am having trouble seeing the bleed valve on the slave cyclinder, 
> what size wrench do i need for this and is there something someone 
> can tell me to make getting to this bleed valve easier? If not I 
> will just keep plugging until i get it done. Andy #3513


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:01:17 -0500
From: "Jerry Harry" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car winner

    Does anyone know if this outfit is on the level, this Prizewise group.
Do they run a real lottery on all the items listed on the site.
    I went to the site and it looks good, seem to have a lot of items, not
just the Delorean.
    The guy is selling the Delorean as the prize in a lottery, your cost
could be  $1.00 for the car, shipped to your drive way,  no matter what he
     This only works if the company holding your money is on the level.
    Again, does anyone know if they are legit or is this a scam site.
Vin # 4890


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 08:55:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car winner

In a message dated 6/26/2004 11:29:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:
If I read the laws correct you do not have to refund items of value of $1.00 
or less.

And the car is NOT a BTTF car 
I would wonder on this one

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 08:51:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car winner

See what I started

At least at the show you get a decent chance to win.

I am considering doing another raffle car with all the positive comments I 
There is a candidate lurking out there I am just not sure if I want the 
paperwork involved yet.
Also the amount of work poured into the car.

The Car did well and the new owner is thrilled.  I will get the tape up there 
as soon as I can.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:48:38 -0000
From: "kaffinekrazed" <>
Subject: Re: Backlit Instrument Cluster (was: DMCH new Interior)

I know of a company that makes customs gauge faces 
you have to send them an insturment cluster and have 25 others that 
also want it.  I'm still waiting for enough pepole for them to make 
the gauges for my car.  

--- In, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> The odds of seeing a backlit version of the stock instrument 
> are slim to none. As of today, there are still several hundred 
> clusters and a large number of 240kmh, as well. With that many NOS 
> parts on hand, why re-create it? The interior in the show car 
> features a backlit cluster, and follows the same basic 
> instrumentation as the stock DeLorean, just in a more modern 
> I'll stop short of saying that the interior at the show is the 
> of DeLoreans (with so many NOS parts still available, that's not 
> likely), but you won't see development of what is essentially a 
> duplicate of a part that we already have hundreds of.
> Wouldn't you rather the money was spent on torsion bars or 
> dashes/binnacles or other parts that are unavailable?
> James Espey
> DMC (Texas)


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 12:46:09 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: Door locking system question

Everything works from the lock module. At the module I tapped my 
alarm into the lock/unlock wires coming from the door switches. NK 
and NS colored wires. See M:18:14 of the Workshop Manual - the 
grounding symbol on switches 3 and 4 is missing on the switch lever 
but they appear in the main wiring diagram. They are grounded by the 
door switches to activate the door locks - one for lock, one for 
unlock - I don't remember which - you'll have to test. This works 
both locks at once. If you want to activate the door locks 
separately then you will have to go into the door lock module or 
directly to the door lock solenoids. Something I would not recommend.

If your alarm is similar to mine then the alarm, upon activation, 
provides a ground or a positive current to activate the door locks. 
You would want to use the wires that provide a ground for both lock 
and unlock modes. You may want to put a diode in the line to 
eliminate any feedback to the alarm when activating the door locks 
normally or an extra relay to provide a complete break in the 
circuit to the alarm. Since I was uncertain of currents required of 
the older technology of the door lock module I used separate relays 
for the alarm interface so the ground was a direct ground when the 
relay was activated by my alarm module and the alarm is completely 
isolated from the circuit during normal operation (probably overkill 
but I could also then use either alarm logic and I didn't have to 
worry about feedback).

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I'm working on installing an alarm, only I am confused as to what 
> DeLorean uses as far as door locking systems. The options of
> installation are Type 1:vehicles with + 12V output system, Type 2:
> vehicles with - 12V output system, and Type 3 +,- pulse signal. 
> also an option for a 1 wire system, vehicles requiring additional
> actuators, etc. I guessing its type 3, but I'm just asking here to
> make
> sure before I do any damage. There are only 3 wires to install -
> (-lock output/+unlock output), Blue (-unlock output/+lock output)
> and Gray (-second unlock output...?). Most of the electrics for the
> alarm have already been installed, I just don't know where to begin
> with the locking part. I'm okay with electronics, but
> I'm
> real confused here...perhaps it is both my concussions kicking in.
> Thanks for any help -Dani B. #5003


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 11:59:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: A/C and cooling fan relays sticking

Your volt meter should tell you if there is power to the connection 
when there should be none. If the wiring is OK then, from your 
description, I would say the otterstat is faulty - causing a power 
connection or, the mode switch is causing a power leak.

Pull a wire from the otterstat and see what happens. The AC, etc. 
should still function and the relays should release. If that proves 
fruitless pull fuse 10 and see if the relays release.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> After going to town on my A/C system, I'm all charged up and 
> pressure.

> Rich A.
> #5335


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 17:02:29 -0000
From: "wannadelorean" <>
Subject: Re: Florida Delorean - Was Shipping a Delorean

Here is a link to the completed auction.  It does sound an awful lot 
like the same vehicle.

--- In, "wannadelorean" <mcquinlan_at_dml_c...> 
> This sounds like one that listed on ebay not too long ago.  It was 
> originally in NY and had a note on the title that the speedo had 
> exceeded manufacturer limits.  The seller said that it really only 
> had a little over 11,000 when the speedo died and that 11,000 was 
> close to accurate.  He claimed the note on the title was a mistake 
> and "this happens all the time".  I thought it was very strange.  
> claimed not to know anything about the history other than this.  
> was selling it in an estate sale.  Sounds like someone bought it 
> within a couple months has decided to sell?  
> I'm also looking for a manual.  
> As an aside, I took a spin with Dan Deutch today in one of his two 
> cars and I'm sold. I just need to have an out building built on my 
> property.  I need to relocate my woodworking shop from my third 
> of the garage.  Don't wan't my Delorean sitting outside.
> Thanks go out to Dan!  It was amazing to see his Concours winner.  
> The car looks like it was built yesterday.  
> --- In, "Dan Harris" <whocruiser_at_dml_a...> 
> > --- In, "wannadelorean" <mcquinlan_at_dml_c...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Thanks to all who have responded.  I received a couple private 
> > > emails too and it seems my observation that Florida is lacking 
> in 
> > > quality Deloreans for sale has been confirmed by others. (no 
> > offense 
> > > to anyone selling a Delorean in Florida.)  There is a pretty 3 
> > rotor 
> > > rotary for sale in Miami but it is painted and I'm looking for 
> an 
> > > original SS.
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > There was an 82 Delorean listed for sale in today's Ft 
> > newspaper classified, and remembering your post about wishing 
> there 
> > were more good cars in Florida, I gave the guy a call about 
> > over to look at it.  It was located in Pompano Beach, and very 
> close 
> > by, so I went over to take a look on my way home from work 
> A 
> > 1982, automatic, unpainted, flat hood with emblem, grey interior 
> with 
> > very minor wear cracks on the seats but otherwise immaculate 
> interior 
> > with no cracks on dash or binnacle, excellent stainless all 
> > except for a very minor ding on the hood.  DOA sticker on the 
> > window.  Forgot to write down the exact VIN #, but it was in the 
> > 10,000's, with a Dec 81 build date.  Didn't actually drive it as 
> it 
> > was in a warehouse and blocked off from the door behind several 
> other 
> > cars, but it did start right up with a jump, and ran very 
> smoothly.  
> > AC ran cool right away.  Looked very original overall, no 
> noticible 
> > modifications, even has a good looking set of original NCT's on 
> > sparkling clean wheels.  Shows 11,000 miles on the clock.  
> a 
> > PJ Grady service sticker on the door, so you can probably assume 
> it 
> > was well cared for there by the original owner at one time.  
> Didn't 
> > look too closely under the car, so can't comment on frame rust 
> > not, or anything else underneath, but there were no apparent 
> > leaks underneath the car.  Seller says he picked it up in an 
> estate 
> > sale from original owner's family, that it was last regularly 
> driven 
> > and registered in New York in 1991, was garaged since, and has 
> been 
> > started and maintained regularly since.  It looks to me like a 
> pretty 
> > good car, and anyone interested in looking into it further can 
> phone 
> > up the seller (his name went right out of my head - I really do 
> need 
> > to start carrying a little notebook!) directly at 754-366-2277.  
> He's 
> > asking $16,900 for it in the classified ad, and it looks like 
> > probably a pretty good car for the money.
> > 
> > Dan Harris - VIN# 1662 - FL Tag# My 81DMC


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 17:33:45 -0000
From: "Matt" <>
Subject: Rebuilding ignition distributor

Took my ignition distributor off to powdercoat it, and while I was 
taking it apart I saw there was only 1 small spring inside, but it 
looks like there should be 2 springs.  Does anyone know? :)




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