From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2099
Date: Friday, July 02, 2004 8:19 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DCS2006 suggestions
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Re: Transport to Chicago (Pheasant Run)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Efi
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. Rotary Delorean on Ebay
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

5. Test Track (was "Eurofest 2006")
From: <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

6. Re: Re: Cruise control
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: more AC stuff - rattling?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Eurofest 2006
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Spark Plug Removal Woes
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

11. Thread Galling
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. eibach springs from DMCH
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>

13. sad times for me...
From: "Raine Moreno" <rmoreno_at_dml_sw.rr.com>

14. Re: Bad bearing or...?
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: eibach springs from DMCH
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

16. Again-Door Seals; Inner
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. Re: Spark Plug Removal Woes
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. re: DCS 2006
From: "savantprods" <TCConnors_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. Pass door lock malfunction
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: "kaffinekrazed" <kaffine_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Yellow D in Auction?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

24. RE: Oil Pressure Weirdness
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

25. Re: Cruise control
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2004 21:13:44 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DCS2006 suggestions

I have been discussing a lot of suggestions with a lot of owners
and with a few of the vendors and some of these ideas sound like
they should be seriously considered for the DCS 2006 event, so
I will keep a few at the top of my "wish list" for the event.

- Attempt to schedule the vendor room sale time NOT during the
car show, possibly the day before the show, while other non-D
related activities are going on.  This allows everyone a chance
to visit vendors and allows the vendors to enjoy the car show.

- Have a scheduled but informal "pre-show" parking lot show at
night, since a lot of folks are already doing this every night.
There are more and more cars that have some type of non-stock
lighting that is best viewed outdoors and at night.

- Use the VIN line-up idea for a dual purpose: the VIN line-up
can be done in the reserved parking area, thus creating your
own reserved space, leaving at least one empty space between
reserved spaces to allow for walk-in registration vehicles.
People can then take photos of this line-up in the mornings,
when most of the cars will still be at rest in the lot.

- Those planning to drive to the show should attempt to get to
the show early in the week, especially if you think you may
need to get some work done after you get to the event.  Many of
those who can help you out would rather do so before the event
or after the event, so they will be able to enjoy the event.
If there is enough interest (advanced scheduled work), we may
be able to have one or more of the service vendors come early
or stay later to assist with more advanced repairs at a shop.

Keep the ideas coming.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Regarding the tech thing----since the 2006 show is in our area, 
we're 
> looking at the possibility of hosting a pre-show tech event. This 
> would have to be somewhat controlled (planned) as I'm sure my 
neighbors, 
> already somewhat troubled by the Monster Garage thing (and the big 
> white trailer currently in my driveway) would not be amused by 35 
> DeLoreans lined up in the front yard. It's a long way off, but 
> consider it a possibility for those who want to show up a few days 
> early (or stay late).
> 
> We could also look into setting up one of those portable lifts in 
the 
> PR parking lot, I'll bet. 
> 
> Dave (and Rich and Marty.....).
> 
> For example----
> http://www.dmcnews.com/events/techweek03/techweek03.html
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 17:48:03 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Transport to Chicago (Pheasant Run)

In a message dated 6/30/04 4:13:01 PM Central Daylight Time, awolf_at_dml_ancira.com 
writes:


> 
> How do you guys plan to get your cars there? Do most people tow or drive
> them? Living in San Antonio, it seems like quite a drive to get there. I am
> wondering if it's smarter to pull it up there. 
> 

If your car isn't mostly sorted out or you just bought it and are unsure of 
the service history, I would not recommend driving it more than a couple hours 
from home.  

on the other hand, you have almost two years now to do a tune up, check 
emissions, replaced bad fuel parts, fix the A/C, fix the suspension, clean up the 
interior, and sort out the idle system.  electrical is probably more more than 
important than anything else though when it comes to a long trip!

get started!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2004 21:56:06 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Efi

Hi, I was reading an old post by Jim Witherspoon regarding his Efi 
conversion. I am almost ready to undertake a simular conversion 
while i have my body off and can climb around the engine easily. 
Just wondering Jim if you would do anything differently now or is 
the system still working fine? Also did you post any pics of this? 

Thanks NIck 10927




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2004 18:49:49 -0400
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Rotary Delorean on Ebay

Anybody know if this car was sold? i had read that it was on ebay before but didn't sell.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2482379107&category=31830



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 7:17:00 +0800
From: <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Test Track (was "Eurofest 2006")

Hi DMLers and DOCers,

With the recent rumours of redevelopment of the Test Track (on DML, DOC, etc) I took the opportunity this week, while in N.Ireland, to meet with the Belfast Planning Department and ask about the Tracks status. 

They assured me that no plans had been submitted with them for approval, which would be a requirement before redevelopment. They are presently undertaking a Study to amend their Local Zoning Plans. 

As the Factory seems to be still "Public Land" I suggested they could zone the Test Track area as a site of "Industrial Heritage" worthy of conservation. I flicked through a PowerPoint presentation suggesting opportunities we saw for future use of this area (Tourism, N.Ireland Classic Car Shows, Local Public Recreation Park, Wildlife habit, and occasional use of Test Track for DeLorean days!).

They were very open, co-operative, and suggested ways in which our views could be submitted to Government to preserve the Track for future generations. It is essential our local Owners keep an eye on the newspapers and Plan.Depts web-site for any possible development encroachment.

I'm looking forward to our "Mini-Meet" at a Classic Car Show in N.Ireland on Saturday, before I zap back to HongKong.

Cheers,      IAN FOSTER
**************************

> 
> From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
> Date: 2004/07/02 Fri AM 02:15:22 GMT+08:00
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Eurofest 2006
> 
> Not sure if Martin has more accurate news on this, but my friend was 
> at the factory 2 weeks ago and saw a lot of construction going on. He 
> spoke to one of the security guards, who said that the track is being 
> built on. Take this for what its worth, 3rd party information.
> 
> Best wishes,
> John Dore, Dublin, Ireland.





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 18:21:19 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise control

Where did anybody hook up the vacuum line to?

Mark
6683

On Thursday, July 1, 2004, at 12:40  PM, ryanpwright wrote:

> Hey Jeff,
>
> Can you tell me which system this is? I'd like to buy it for my car.
> Have to install it myself as I'm a few states away from DMC, though.
>
> -Ryan
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>> I know that this does not answer the specific questions in the
>> original post, but since we're on the subject of cruise control...
>>
>> I had Delorean Motor Center install an all electronic CC in my D,
>> after seeing Danny doing it in his BTTF Delorean.



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 17:41:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged and evac. several times.  I even flushed the both hoses and the condenser TWICE installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a little dirty and put on a new accumulator.  Short of replacing a perfectly good compressor (good pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ idle) and condenser I don't know what to do next.  The system is completely clean now but still not cold. the accumulator seems just moist and dripping a little but not cold  just cool?
Also I replaced the mode switch it was hissing a little and even plugged the two heater hoses up next to the accumulator just to make sure it was not mixing with the A/C.  I'm in So. Fla. so I never use the darn heater any way.  Any Suggestions, Thanks.


		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 00:42:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: more AC stuff - rattling?

If the engine is cool or cold when you first turn on the AC your 
noise could be a loose AC belt. When it slips at the compressor it 
can make a lot of racket and vibrations you can feel. As the engine 
temperature climbs the belts actually get tighter and therefore no 
slippage. As a result, I prefer to adjust the belts when the engine 
is cold and recheck the tension when the engine gets hot. New belts 
are especially necessary to recheck. After 15 minutes at temperature 
the new belt "breaks-in" and usually needs retightened.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> So I have my AC charged with Freeze 12. Everything is working 
great. 
> It blows nice and icy cold as well as hold pressure. No leaks. 
> 
> However, I noticed an interesting thing. Once the car has sat 
> overnight, if I turn on the AC for the first time the next day, i 
get 
> a nasty rattle within what I presume are the hoses underneath the 
> car. I can feel it in the driver's seat. The rattling last for 
only 1 
> possibly 2 seconds then immediatly quiets and goes away, from that 
> point, the system operates completely normally. Would this be a 
sign 
> of overcharging or something else possibly?




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 01:05:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Eurofest 2006

This is what happened last time and I'd expect the same this time, but 
once again, I'm not anything to do with the organisation, just an eager 
punter!

Martin

Dom Diaz wrote:

>Martin, will there be a tour of the old factory and other Delorean related 
>events?? Thanks.
>
>Dom
>  
>





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 22:56:51 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Spark Plug Removal Woes

Well after purchasing a new set of platinum spark plugs from John Hervey at 
PF, I decided to install them today.   Changing spark plugs I thought, no big 
deal right?   Wrong.   First off, my plugs were originals and had not been 
removed for 23 years.   The first two came out without a hitch.   I barely applied 
force to the third one and "snap" went the plug.   Half came out, half was 
still in the engine.   Well I cursed, and moved on to another plug, this time 
first soaking it in PB Blaster.   "Snap" it went again.   So now I had 2 broken 
plugs stuck in the engine, and I was starting to panic.   They broke off so 
low that there was nothing to even grab hold of.   After frantic calls to Ken K 
and Josh Haldeman, I was told to go buy an easy out/extractor tool from Sears. 
  All I can say is it worked like a charm.   I hammered it in, used a wrench 
and unscrewed the extractor and the remainder of both plugs came out with it.  
 And of course after I bought the tool, the remaining plugs came out fine and 
I didn't need to use it again.   I'd like to thank Josh for coming over and 
helping me get the last plug in on the driver's side.   All of the myths about 
ripping parts of the engine off were false..the plug went in pretty easily 
without the removal of anything else.   

Patrick
1880  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 03:17:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Thread Galling

Just received an eMail Re: thread galling that shows there still is
misunderstanding about what it is:

Galling is NOT a problem that develops over time
Galling is NOT a result of different composition metals in contact
with one another
Galling is NOT affected by the outside environment
Galling is NOT limited to stainless steel (though stainless is most
susceptible)

Galling is basically welding. Occurs when self oxidizing metal
surfaces rub against one another too fast or too hard. Protective
outer layer is removed, heat is generated (friction or pressure), and
the virgin metal fuses. *ONLY* happens during fastening. If the
threads haven't galled at that point, they aren't ever going to!

Galling is usually a production line problem. Is difficult to do it in
your own driveway with a socket wrench (no cheater), especially if you
lubricate the threads first.

The eMail I received concerned stainless fasteners in an exhaust
system. That's one of the BEST places to use stainless. Single biggest
component of auto exhaust is water vapor! If you don't want to buy
Grady's new 7mm stainless studs (only place you'll ever find them
BTW), at least put stainless nuts on your carbon studs (Fastenal still
has 7mm stainless nuts). Other studs are common 10mm -- replace them too.

Or, you can snap the carbon studs off in the heads, drill them out,
replace them with new carbon, then repeat the process all over again
next time you replace exhaust gaskets...

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 03:28:11 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: eibach springs from DMCH

i just bought a set of eibach springs for my d and i am wondering 
how low the car will be after they are put on.....will the car's 
handling greatly improve? is this a good spring set?

john 
hawaii
#5458




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 20:39:40 -0500
From: "Raine Moreno" <rmoreno_at_dml_sw.rr.com>
Subject: sad times for me...

yes I have been pinched and i can no longer live the dream.....i am selling
1096. We have been through the best of times and the worst of time...but i
kept her breathing, and now I have to pass the torch. I have put her up on
ebay....If anyone has any q's feel free to ask. And please kick the word
around and try to help me sell her. I have to move and expenses are tearing
me a new one. Thanks all.....
* i Will dream again*
-Raine
Vin # 1096

ebay item
2483352107 

here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2483352107&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 03:31:42 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bad bearing or...?

My car had this symptom once. I searched all over the wheels cause it 
sounded like the tire was rubbing the wheel well or something equally 
as terrible. it turned out that my fuel gauge sender had failed and I 
was out of gas. The terrible sound was coming from the accumulator 
vibration from sucking air. 

Just a possibility.

adam




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 03:39:53 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: eibach springs from DMCH

This may seem an obvious question, but wouldn't it have been better 
to ask the vendor, <<before>> you bought them? I'm sure they'd be 
glad to tell you. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> i just bought a set of eibach springs for my d and i am wondering 
> how low the car will be after they are put on.....will the car's 
> handling greatly improve? is this a good spring set?
> 
> john 
> hawaii
> #5458




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 03:52:53 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Again-Door Seals; Inner

Just a quick question on the inner seals-I hope you can understand
what I mean here... Does the seals fold down with the door when you
close it, or is the seal supposed to just sit against the steel (no
folding)? My situation is that when I close the door, the lip of the
seal contacts the steel of the door, causing quite a bit of the seal
to fold with it until it is shut, and no where else does it do this.
Usually I just push the folding parts up as I close the door, but I
can't do this when I'm getting out of my car going somewhere-only when
I'm in it (because this can only be done from the inside). I'm
getting tired of doing this I am wondering if this
occurance is normal? -probably not. Thanks, Dani B. 5003




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2004 23:58:57 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Removal Woes

In a message dated 7/1/2004 11:38:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com writes:
After frantic calls to Ken K 
and Josh Haldeman, I was told to go buy an easy out/extractor tool from 
Sears. 



I also told him to use penetrating oil first and let it soak

A teenagers idea of letting is soak is three minutes
thus the second plug that broke.

Anyway he did get it himself without me going over so my hats off to you for 
doing it yourself.

ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 04:21:15 -0000
From: "savantprods" <TCConnors_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: re: DCS 2006

Ken,

I would be especially interested in having a Delorean autocross event 
at the 2006 DCS show.  

Given the merchandise that they could sell, the vendors might be 
willing to provide repair and inspection services at the track before 
the event.  

It would also be a nice opportunity for DMCH and others to 
demonstrate their new performance offerings.

Finally, it would be great to have some chalkboard time with a 
performance driving instructor who is versed in the particular power 
and handling characteristics of our car.


TC
16132




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 04:03:57 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Pass door lock malfunction

Ever since I got my car, I have this problem with the passenger side
lock only. Heres the symptoms: It seems to "Stick" in the locked
position frequently. If I hit the switch to unlock on the pass door,
it will unlock part way and jump back to lock-causing the drivers lock
to lock with it. I can try to force the switch down as hard as I can
but it will just jump back to locked. Sometimes if I used the key in
that door it will unlock sucessfully and work for a while until it
freezes in the locked position again. I have had to disconnect the box
inside the relay compartment twice to unlock the door. Also if the
passenger side is unlocked and I try to open the door from the
outside, it will suddenly jump to locked causing the door to jam. The
drivers
side doesn't do this at all, in fact if you hold the switch or key in
the unlocked position while the other side jumps back to locked,
drivers side will stay unlocked (thank god!). So what gives? Is there
some kind of adjustment I need to make or is it the solenoid? It's
really frustrating and embarassing when someone is trying to enter on
that side!




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 04:46:40 -0000
From: "kaffinekrazed" <kaffine_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

What is the ambient temp and humidity in your area?  I haven't 
worked on a Delorean so I don't know how the system is setup.  Does 
it have recirc and how long has it been running when you get 61 
degrees?  What is the temp of the following lines, from compressor 
to condensor, from condensor to orifce tube, from orifice tube to 
evap, from evap to acumalator, from acumalator to compressor?  To 
get temps tape a thermometor to the line preferable a digital 
thermometer or an IR thermometer.  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged 
and evac. several times.  I even flushed the both hoses and the 
condenser TWICE installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a 
little dirty and put on a new accumulator.  Short of replacing a 
perfectly good compressor (good pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ 
idle) and condenser I don't know what to do next.  The system is 
completely clean now but still not cold. the accumulator seems just 
moist and dripping a little but not cold  just cool?



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 05:06:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

Sounds like you've got too much freon in there. I'd shoot for 30-35
PSI on the low side (R134 runs a little higher than R12). You'll know
you've got a proper charge when low side maintains constant pressure
irrespective of compressor RPM's.

You are pulling a vacuum before recharging? Moisture will totally foul
things up. Freon evaporates ("boils") at something like 22 degrees --
well below the freezing point of water.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged and
evac. several times.  I even flushed the both hoses and the condenser
TWICE installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a little dirty
and put on a new accumulator.  Short of replacing a perfectly good
compressor (good pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ idle) and condenser I
don't know what to do next.  The system is completely clean now but
still not cold. the accumulator seems just moist and dripping a little
but not cold  just cool?



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 05:30:38 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Yellow D in Auction?

Ron, your car is being sold on ebay right now. Sort of... look at 
item # 3919107439 There is some sort of weird auction for a bill 
worth 10 shillings with your yellow D photoshopped across the front. 
Thought you'd want to know someone is "selling" your car sort of.

Joe


2524 & 16634







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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 10:41:32 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

John,
Are both of your cooling fans running? Are they turning the correct way? The
pressures are a bit high even for FL heat. Also make sure that the shroud
for the radiator is good and nothing is blocking the air flow (make sure
nothing is stuck in the condenser fins).
I converted my D to R134a and the temperature at the vents was 40 to 45 F
with around 90F outside - also in Florida.
If you need more help you can contact me directly.
Good luck!

Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Podlewski" <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>


> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged and evac.
several times.  I even flushed the both hoses and the condenser TWICE
installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a little dirty and put on
a new accumulator.  Short of replacing a perfectly good compressor (good
pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ idle) and condenser I don't know what to do
next.  The system is completely clean now but still not cold. the
accumulator seems just moist and dripping a little but not cold  just cool?
> Also I replaced the mode switch it was hissing a little and even plugged
the two heater hoses up next to the accumulator just to make sure it was not
mixing with the A/C.  I'm in So. Fla. so I never use the darn heater any
way.  Any Suggestions, Thanks.
>
>




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 07:31:23 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Weirdness

> From: therealdmcvegas
> To help determine which kind you
> use, check either the Owners Manual, or the back archives.

You are joking here, right?
The owner's manual and the tech manual disagree, and specify a wide range of
possible oils to use.
Every time the topic of oil weight comes up here, it sparks the closest
thing to a flame war I ever see in this community.

> Now, if you want to know if you have the original sending unit
> installed, look at you oil pressure gague. Durring idle, the needle
> occasionally clicking between a few PSI is normal. But if you've got
> the incompatable/uncalibrated sending unit from the factory, you'll
> see the needle violently bouce all over the place, and almost
> constantly. Rev the motor up higher than idle, and the needle almost
> always pegs out _at_dml_ 80PSI. From you previous description, it sounds
> like it's already been replaced.

I'm not sure I can draw the same conclusion from my observations.  My needle
is NOT erratic or jumpy, and rarely goes above 5.6 (80 on yours).

> From: David Teitelbaum

> Some things to check first.
[...]
> check the oil level when the car is cold, on level ground.

Checks out OK.

> Next make sure that the wire is
> securely attached to the sender unit and is not caught, frayed, or
> otherwise damaged.

Will do, thanks

> and use a known, good mechanical pressure gauge to make sure the motor
> is OK.

Don't have the equipment or knowledge, but this is on the list for the next
time it's in the shop; overdue for a 30k service.

> should have the Perflux installed even though it costs a little more

did that, I heard this message loud and clear very early on.


Thanks for the responses.
--Scott




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 11:38:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise control

I tapped the main manifold vacuum line with a reducing "T" - works 
great.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Where did anybody hook up the vacuum line to?
> 
> Mark
> 6683
> 
> On Thursday, July 1, 2004, at 12:40  PM, ryanpwright wrote:
> 
> > Hey Jeff,
> >
> > Can you tell me which system this is? I'd like to buy it for my 
car.
> > Have to install it myself as I'm a few states away from DMC, 
though.
> >
> > -Ryan
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> >> I know that this does not answer the specific questions in the
> >> original post, but since we're on the subject of cruise 
control...
> >>
> >> I had Delorean Motor Center install an all electronic CC in my 
D,
> >> after seeing Danny doing it in his BTTF Delorean.




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