From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2100
Date: Friday, July 02, 2004 7:24 PM

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Spark Plug Removal Woes
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

2. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

3. Re: Rotary Delorean on Ebay
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Another AC Problem
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

5. Re: Pass door lock malfunction
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

6. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Thread Galling
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Pass door lock malfunction
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

9. Re: Another AC Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. DPNW Lock Actuators. Best. Upgrade. Ever.
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

11. I need help (pictures) turbo
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: Re: Another AC Problem
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

13. Re: Oil Pressure Weirdness
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Re: Rotary Delorean on Ebay
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>

15. Re: eibach springs from DMCH
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>

16. Interesting e-mail
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 09:17:24 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Removal Woes

The same happened to Jordan about 4-5 months ago and was 
discussed on this list.
Take a look at his How-To page, there should be pictures about it.


Elvis & 6548


> Well after purchasing a new set of platinum spark plugs from John Hervey
> at 
> PF, I decided to install them today.   Changing spark plugs I thought, no
> big 
> deal right?   Wrong.   First off, my plugs were originals and had not been
> removed for 23 years.   The first two came out without a hitch.   I barely
> applied 



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 11:58:40 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

If those are the pressures at idle - i'd say you are over charged - 
a lot, or there is too much oil in the system. High side pressure at 
idle should not be over 150 - 175 with R 12 or 134. I would expect 
to see 250 at 2,000 rpm. Are the fans working OK? 8-10 oz of oil (in 
a dry system) and 2.25 lb of R134 (some may prefer 2.0 lb in a HOT 
climate). If there is excess oil, it will accumulate in the 
accumulator (mostly) and the compressor. You can remove them and 
drain the oil from them. It is a bit tricky at the accumulator - do 
it from the input side. If you replace the old accumulator that may 
be oil logged with a new one, put 1 oz of oil in it when installing. 
Put no oil back in the used accumulator when reassembling and put 1 
oz of oil back into the compressor when reassembling. Be sure to use 
the correct oil.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged 
and evac. several times.  I even flushed the both hoses and the 
condenser TWICE installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a 
little dirty and put on a new accumulator.  Short of replacing a 
perfectly good compressor (good pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ 
idle) and condenser I don't know what to do next.  The system is 
completely clean now but still not cold. the accumulator seems just 
moist and dripping a little but not cold  just cool?



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 12:04:58 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotary Delorean on Ebay

It says "bidding has ended for this item" (dhemsell is the winner) for  
US $16,766.66 so your question is answered.

Mark V


On Thursday, July 1, 2004, at 05:49  PM, motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Anybody know if this car was sold? i had read that it was on ebay  
> before but didn't sell.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ 
> eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2482379107&category=31830




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 12:20:07 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Another AC Problem

Well, recently as temps here in Texas approach 100 deg, I am starting to
have a problem. My air blows cold when I am driving, but when I stop, it
doesn't. Now, when I hit the brakes, I hear a ppppppsssss from the passenger
side. It sounds like a vacuum line. It only does this when the AC is in the
MAX position. I spoke with 2 people, and one suggested the alternator might
not have enough juice to keep the compressor on while at a stop, and the
other suggested the mode switch might be bad. Can a bad mode switch cause
the system not to cool? Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks!

Alex Wolf
#4608
 



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 17:27:09 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Pass door lock malfunction

Dani,

One of two things, probably:

1. Your door lock controller could be "sticking" on the relays. I
recommend a rebuild or replace with Lockzilla.

2. I had my doors apart last night for the installation of new
lightweight lock actuators from DPNW. I noticed that my forward
release lever was "flexing/bending" when I tried to open the door.
This caused the whole mechanism to shift somewhat, and about half the
time it shifted just enough that the doors would lock due to the
lock/unlock "sensor" (just a moving piece of metal that grounds
different terminals) touching the lock side. Took me awhile to figure
this one out. I readjusted things and it works great now.

Your solenoids are fine, as they're locking and unlocking the door.
Your problem is either in the door mechanism or the lock controller.
I'm leaning toward the door mechanism, personally, because if it were
the lock controller you'd be having the same problem with the driver's
side.

I recommend taking the passenger door panels off and checking all of
the linkages. Have you ever had your door panels off before? There are
an awful lot of rods running back and forth to facilitate opening and
unlocking/locking the door. They all work together. In that mechanism,
toward the middle-back of the door, there is a little metal piece that
looks like a U. It moves back and forth, making contact with two
different points when you lock and unlock your doors. The lock module
uses this to "sense" when you manually lock or unlock the door so that
it can actuate the other door for you.

What's probably happening is that your linkages are bent or otherwise
aren't working properly. So when you unlock the door, it unlocks just
barely enough to open, but not enough to fully move that little sensor
thing. So you let go of the lock button, or try to open the door, and
the "sensor" is so close to the "lock" ground that it makes contact
and locks your door for you. 

Open your doors and take the panels off. Manually close the latches
that hold the door shut (the metal things on the inner edges of the
doors - they shut around the door posts and latch). You can use your
finger or a flathead screwdriver to move them until they "click"
closed. This is to prevent damaging the mechanism. Now you can cycle
your door locks all you want, with the door opened, without damaging
things. Don't forget to reopen these before you try to close your door
- do this by holding the door handle in the open position and moving
the latches back with your finger/screwdriver.

Cycle the door locks back and forth and observe the mechanism. I bet
your lower rod, that heads toward the front of the door and moves that
latch for you, is binding up enough to prevent the lock/unlock
"sensor" from moving far enough away from the lock position. It may be
loose somewhere, or bent, or something like that. 

Also, might be a good idea to disconnect your lock controller before
getting in there. :)

This was probably long and confusing, but I hope it helps.

-Ryan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Ever since I got my car, I have this problem with the passenger side
> lock only. Heres the symptoms: It seems to "Stick" in the locked
> position frequently. If I hit the switch to unlock on the pass door,
> it will unlock part way and jump back to lock-causing the drivers lock
> to lock with it. I can try to force the switch down as hard as I can
> but it will just jump back to locked. Sometimes if I used the key in
> that door it will unlock sucessfully and work for a while until it
> freezes in the locked position again. I have had to disconnect the box
> inside the relay compartment twice to unlock the door. Also if the
> passenger side is unlocked and I try to open the door from the
> outside, it will suddenly jump to locked causing the door to jam. The
> drivers
> side doesn't do this at all, in fact if you hold the switch or key in
> the unlocked position while the other side jumps back to locked,
> drivers side will stay unlocked (thank god!). So what gives? Is there
> some kind of adjustment I need to make or is it the solenoid? It's
> really frustrating and embarassing when someone is trying to enter on
> that side!






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 18:54:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

To check the efficiency of the A/C system you measure temp difference
across the evap coil. It's called delta "T". What you need to do is
know the temp of the air going into the coil and the temp after it
comes out. It should be at least a differential of 20 degrees. If the
air in a hot, overheated passenger compartment is 100 degrees do not
expect better than 80 degrees to come out of the vents. You should not
block off the heater by shutting the valve. Eventually the heater core
may corrode. I would jump the hoses out at the motor and drain the
heater. Test the temp drop with the heater fan on high speed and make
sure both radiater fans are running, the fans are not loose on the
shafts, and they are both turning in the right direction. Be sure
nothing is blocking the grille, or the radiator or the evap core, your
high side pressure and low side pressure seems too high (this is
asuming you have the correct amount of R-134).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a  and have recharged and
evac. several times.  



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 19:08:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Thread Galling

Galling can be fatigue corrosion too. It is really fretting and
results from overcycling metal. In threads it can appear because of an
under-tightened fastener. It can also appear when using dissimialar
metals in the presence of an electrolyte like water. Very common in
aircraft which are exposed to weather and high stress loads with a lot
of cycles. Aircraft also have many different types of metals. This is
one of the reasons you will see recomended that you use an anti-seize
compound on the spark plugs. A highly stressed fastener, steel, in
aluminum. The spark plugs ARE plated to help prevent corrosion but
that is not enough. Look up the electomotive chart. The farther apart
2 elements are the more reactive they will be in contact with each
other. It has to do with their affinity for trading electrons.
Electrolytic corrosion is really an electrical plating (or deplating)
process. Fretting corrosion is a welding process. The 2 pieces of
metal are brought into intimate contact with heat and pressure and
separated may times creating the "corrosion" you will see.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Just received an eMail Re: thread galling that shows there still is
> misunderstanding about what it is:
> 
> Galling is NOT a problem that develops over time





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 19:59:01 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Pass door lock malfunction

You didn't say how well the driver's side door lock works if you try
to lock/unlock it from the passenger side. But check the door locks
themselves by pressing the rocker lever inside. It should click back
and forth with just the pressure from your middle finger. Anything
harder than that, like when you have to start using your thumb, and
you'll know that you've got a problem with the linkage.

Before you start trying to adjust any of the rods/linkages, first try
to lube everything. The best thing I found was White Lithium Grease,
that you spray out from a can. I soaked the locking clasps, the rods,
bell crank, and the cable tube that connects to the door handle, while
you move everything back and forth. Adjusting the linkage shouldn't be
nessisary, from what I've seen.

Lubing the linkage is always a good idea. After doing so, my door
closes much easier, and more quiet. However, even if this fixes your
issue, you should still repair/replace your door lock module, as
everyone else will tell you. A little work on that little box behind
can save you A TON of labor if you damage the solenoids, and need to
replace one!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Ever since I got my car, I have this problem with the passenger side
> lock only. Heres the symptoms: It seems to "Stick" in the locked
> position frequently. If I hit the switch to unlock on the pass door,
> it will unlock part way and jump back to lock-causing the drivers
lock
> to lock with it. I can try to force the switch down as hard as I can
> but it will just jump back to locked. Sometimes if I used the key in
> that door it will unlock sucessfully and work for a while until it
> freezes in the locked position again. I have had to disconnect the
box
> inside the relay compartment twice to unlock the door. Also if the
> passenger side is unlocked and I try to open the door from the
> outside, it will suddenly jump to locked causing the door to jam.
The
> drivers
> side doesn't do this at all, in fact if you hold the switch or key
in
> the unlocked position while the other side jumps back to locked,
> drivers side will stay unlocked (thank god!). So what gives? Is
there
> some kind of adjustment I need to make or is it the solenoid? It's
> really frustrating and embarassing when someone is trying to enter
on
> that side!




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 19:20:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Another AC Problem

Your mode switch may in fact be "bad". It may be easily rebuildable. I
think it is more likely that a vacuum hose either came loose or has a
hole in it. A bad vacuum leak or a really leaky mode switch can cause
the wrong positions of the actuators so you won't get the air going
correctly through the A/C. Start by rebuilding the mode switch and
make sure all the vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly. When in the
MAX position (if everything is working right) you pull in outside air
and shut off the heater core. If it is VERY hot outside then Max will
not cool as well as A/C. Max is meant to cool off a really hot car
when you first get in when the air inside the car is hotter than the
air outside the car. Once you get the car cool inside you should not
stay in MAX. If you hear a hissing noise when you use the brakes you
may have a problem with your vacuum booster for the brakes.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ancira Internet Department"
<awolf_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Well, recently as temps here in Texas approach 100 deg, I am starting to
> have a problem. My air blows cold when I am driving, but when I stop, it
> doesn't. Now, when I hit the brakes, I hear a ppppppsssss from the
passenger
> 




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 20:05:47 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: DPNW Lock Actuators. Best. Upgrade. Ever.

Folks,

I just finished installing new door lock actuators from DeLorean Parts
Northwest. This is absolutely one of the best upgrades you can do to
your DeLorean. The kit replaces both of your heavy door lock solenoids
with new, lightweight actuators. Benefits:

1. They use a fraction of the power of the originals, thus reducing
strain on your electrical system.

2. They use outboard relays, thus your stock door lock module should
last forever - and no need to upgrade to a more expensive replacement
unit.

3. They weigh a fraction of the originals. In fact, they weigh so
little that you'll have to reduce your torsion bar strength. This
reduces the strain on your torsion bars, doors, and entire door/roof
system.

All for about $100. Yeah, $100. For both doors. Includes everything
you need. Compared to the $400-$500 a Zilla + new solenoids would have
cost me, this is a steal.

Install time was about an hour and very, very easy. Toby's kits come
with instructions so detailed a child could do it. Most of the install
time was spent disassembling & reassembling the doors. The actuators
themselves only take a couple of minutes to put in.

http://www.delorean-parts.com - I don't see the system on their site
but if you email them, they'll hook you up.

-Ryan





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 16:42:00 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: I need help (pictures) turbo

Since I was a bit preoccupied at the show I realized that of the pictures that I did get I have none of the turbos.

I know a lot of you took pictures of them and I would like to ask that you send them (digital prefered) to me either by e-mail or cd.

We noticed that we did not have any on the web page and we would like to show the ocmplete show not just bits and pieces.

Gary did a great job to have it updated in one day.  But his update is only as good as the photos we gave him. 

The three turbos were up front at the stage especially Robs.

He got there late so there are probably less pics of his car than the other two.

I would like to have all three cars and Fred, Rob, Ed Moody and of course Marc as well if anyone got these.

Detailed pics of the engines are the top priority


So I need your help 

Thanks

Ken





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 15:28:11 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Another AC Problem

I crawled under the dash, but couldn't find any vacuum lines. Do I need to
take out the center console?

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships
210-681-4900
210-231-4214 (Direct)
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 1:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Another AC Problem

Your mode switch may in fact be "bad". It may be easily rebuildable. I
think it is more likely that a vacuum hose either came loose or has a
hole in it. A bad vacuum leak or a really leaky mode switch can cause
the wrong positions of the actuators so you won't get the air going
correctly through the A/C. Start by rebuilding the mode switch and
make sure all the vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly. When in the
MAX position (if everything is working right) you pull in outside air
a



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 20:35:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Weirdness

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_b...>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> You are joking here, right?
> The owner's manual and the tech manual disagree, and specify a wide
range of
> possible oils to use.
> Every time the topic of oil weight comes up here, it sparks the
closest
> thing to a flame war I ever see in this community.

Nope, I'm dead serious. A while back, this debate did occur here on
the list, and we pretty much reached an over all agreement on what was
appropriate, and what was not. The 1982 version of the Owner's
Handbook really cuts thru things on what is needed, and what isn't.
Pretty much, it's laid out like a spectrum. Left is coldest, right is
warmest. Just follow over to see where you think you fit in, and put
that in.

Following what the engine reccomends in important. The 5w30 that is
reccomended by Ford for my Explorer, is said to be only used when
constantly below 0F in my DeLorean. And the 10w30 that every
person behind the counter keeps telling me to use in my vehicles (no
matter which one it's for) is not right for my DeLorean in this hot
climate, and KILLS the gas milage in my Ford no mater what climate
it's in!

Remember, your manuals will always know best.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

p.s. The oil topic has come up more than once, but has NEVER been a
flame war. If you want to call it a "me too!" thread, that'd be
dead-on. But it was pretty courteous. Only 2 true flamewars have ever
errupted on the DML.




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 20:27:30 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotary Delorean on Ebay

that car was built by elise usa right?....it seems like awesome 
modifcations  to the car!


John 
Hawaii
#5458




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 20:25:51 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: eibach springs from DMCH

i was actually trying to ask anyone who has got them for thier 
car.....for them to tell me how they are.....i did ask the vendor....

John
hawaii 
#5458




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 16:48:35 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Interesting e-mail

I got an interesting e-mail that I thought I would share parts with you.

It has to do with the magazines 

The person wrote in and had bought a magazine from me at the show.

He opened it and saw Gullwing magazine add and was totally confused.

He e-mailed me and asked me if I was really advertising for my competition or if we were working together.

When I told him Ron advertised for me as well he was dumbfounded.

It was a fun e-mail but he said that that is not proper and we should not be advertising for the "competition"

I don't look at Ron (Gullwing) or DMCH DeLoreans as competition.

If feel we all offer a different product and we hope you all enjoy them.

We ended with him recommending we stop doing that.

It was fun

Hope you enjoyed the story.

Ken



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