From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2101
Date: Saturday, July 03, 2004 8:22 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Electrolysis vs Thread Galling
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Interesting e-mail
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

3. PF show... one more thing...
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: DPNW Lock Actuators. Best. Upgrade. Ever.
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. Re: Another AC Problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Interesting e-mail
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: Re: Another AC Problem
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Acceleration with the A/C on
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Again-Door Seals; Inner
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. (unknown)
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Another AC Problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Pass door lock malfunction
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Re: Re: Another AC Problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Yellow D in Auction?
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>

15. RE: Oil Pressure Weirdness
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

16. Fuel accumulator
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. 2256 is alive
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

19. Re: Fuel accumulator
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. RE: mode switch
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

21. RE: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

22. Previous Jack Stand and Tire Roar Threads
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Re: Pass door lock malfunction
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

24. AW: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

25. Re: 2256 is alive
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 21:40:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Electrolysis vs Thread Galling

You're talking about electrolysis, which is a totally different
phenomenon from galling, though the end result is basically the same
-- a hopelessly stuck fastener.

-Electrolysis IS a problem that develops over time
-Electrolysis IS the result of dissimilar metals in contact with one
another *AND* moisture (just like a car battery)
-Electrolysis IS affected by the environment (will not occur without
moisture)

One major difference between galling and electrolysis: No amount of PB
will help a galled fastener. Only acetylene will.

There's absolutely no threat of electrolysis with stainless on
stainless. There's infinitesimal electrolysis between stainless and
carbon (certainly nothing like the advantage of not rusting together).
Fear of it should not stop someone from using steel studs & nuts, no
matter the alloy.

Electrolysis *IS* a terrible problem between steel and aluminum. Some
people claim that stainless reacts worse than carbon, but I've drilled
out enough Grade 5 bolts to know that it occurs no matter what alloy
is used. Cooling systems are the worst. That's why I've replaced my
bolts with carbon (7mm) and stainless (8mm) studs & stainless nuts.
Studs can stick to the heads and block as much as they want -- when
time comes to work on my cooling system I'll be turning steel on steel.

Best defense against electrolysis on our little engines would have
been helicoils from the factory. Edelbrock's aluminum heads are 100%
helicoiled for that reason.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Galling can be fatigue corrosion too. It is really fretting and
> results from overcycling metal. In threads it can appear because of an
> under-tightened fastener. It can also appear when using dissimialar
> metals in the presence of an electrolyte like water. Very common in
> aircraft which are exposed to weather and high stress loads with a lot
> of cycles. Aircraft also have many different types of metals. This is
> one of the reasons you will see recomended that you use an anti-seize
> compound on the spark plugs. A highly stressed fastener, steel, in
> aluminum. The spark plugs ARE plated to help prevent corrosion but
> that is not enough. Look up the electomotive chart. The farther apart
> 2 elements are the more reactive they will be in contact with each
> other. It has to do with their affinity for trading electrons.
> Electrolytic corrosion is really an electrical plating (or deplating)
> process. Fretting corrosion is a welding process. The 2 pieces of
> metal are brought into intimate contact with heat and pressure and
> separated may times creating the "corrosion" you will see.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 14:40:55 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting e-mail

Hopefully this will show some how friendly the DeLorean community can be.
Of course there will always be some sense of competition between the vendors
as it is their business, but everyone seems to come together to keep the
dream alive.

If anything, I think advertising another magazine in your own is good for
business.  People who read one and want to find further publications will
instantly know where to go.

Brandon Payne
#2975

>
> It was a fun e-mail but he said that that is not proper and we should not
be advertising for the "competition"
>
> I don't look at Ron (Gullwing) or DMCH DeLoreans as competition.
>
> If feel we all offer a different product and we hope you all enjoy them.
>
> We ended with him recommending we stop doing that.
>
> It was fun
>
> Hope you enjoyed the story.
>
> Ken
>



---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 17:44:03 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: PF show... one more thing...

The one complaint I saw that was not addressed was about the food. If you have a problem with what was served there, you have some major personal problems. I thought the food was great. And yes, I've been to fine restaurants where the food was phenomenal. But think about it people, this is a car event. If you're expecting food from a fine restaurant, you better buck up at least $70 or $80 a plate! The food there was fresh (Ken mentioned to me that nothing was frozen by the way... it was all fresh and cooked that day), tasty, and plentiful. Just because it was served buffet style, doesn't mean it's not as good as food that's served to you by a waiter. I kinda prefer the buffet style. Why? Because I can eat as little or as much as I want. Also, if I don't like one dish, I can always go back for something else. You can't do either of those when you choose your meal and they bring you a plate! When they bring you a plate, that's it. You're pretty much stuck with what you get and the portion served. I don't know about most of you, but I was pretty hungry, and I went back for seconds. :)

To those who complained (not those who made suggestions on how to improve the show): Think you can do better? Then do it...

---"Evil Dan"

PS- I actually do have one complaint... Ken can never seem to spell my last name correctly. It's even spelled wrong on the awards section on the website... TWICE!!! :-P

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 16:44:42 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DPNW Lock Actuators. Best. Upgrade. Ever.

Well, Ryan, you beat me to the punch!

I was going to post almost the exact same message today.  This kit is
fantastic and easy to install.  I've been using mine for the last week
everyday.  I can't tell the difference in function between the originals and
the Toby kit.  And best yet, you don't have to hack your wiring.  Everything
just plugs right in!

I couldn't believe how much those stock solenoids weighed when I took them
out.  I'm pretty happy knowing I took that weight off my torsion bars.
Plus, the kit came with a nicely built, small harness that puts relays in
sequence, taking the load off the factory lock module.  I'm still using the
factory module, by the way.  There was nothing wrong with my solenoids, but
once I saw the kit in PF, I had to have it.

I didn't see it on the website either, but the part number is K1007DP.  Put
that in the search feature on their site, and it will come right up.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063 --> Finally, again locking both doors at once.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 3:05 PM
Subject: [DML] DPNW Lock Actuators. Best. Upgrade. Ever.


<snip>
> http://www.delorean-parts.com - I don't see the system on their site
> but if you email them, they'll hook you up.
>
> -Ryan
>
<snip>




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 21:49:26 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Another AC Problem

If you only hear the leak in "Max", it is most likely the vacuum line
back to the heater core shutoff valve. If I remember the mode switch
chart correctly (am at work at the moment), that's the *ONLY*
difference between "Norm" and "Max" A/C. Is a hard plastic line from
the factory, very susceptible to cracking. Passes under the console. I
replaced mine with windshield washer hose for now. One of these days
will rustle up some 1/8" fuel line hose instead.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ancira Internet Department"
<awolf_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Well, recently as temps here in Texas approach 100 deg, I am starting to
> have a problem. My air blows cold when I am driving, but when I stop, it
> doesn't. Now, when I hit the brakes, I hear a ppppppsssss from the
passenger
> side. It sounds like a vacuum line. It only does this when the AC is
in the
> MAX position. I spoke with 2 people, and one suggested the
alternator might
> not have enough juice to keep the compressor on while at a stop, and the
> other suggested the mode switch might be bad. Can a bad mode switch
cause
> the system not to cool? Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks!
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 15:08:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting e-mail


Couldn't help but wonder - - was the email from
someone named ED????  Maybe he was upset because you
didn't advertise the DW mag!!!!!

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867




-- kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> I got an interesting e-mail that I thought I would
> share parts with you.
> 
> It has to do with the magazines 
> 
> The person wrote in and had bought a magazine from
> me at the show.
> 
> He opened it and saw Gullwing magazine add and was
> totally confused.
> 
> He e-mailed me and asked me if I was really
> advertising for my competition or if we were working
> together.



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 15:38:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Another AC Problem

Remove the radio, just replaced my mode swicth (brand new from DMCH) took all but 15min. You should then be able to get at it easily, just make sure you connect everything back right, use the manual to verify.  Hope this helps!

Ancira Internet Department <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com> wrote:I crawled under the dash, but couldn't find any vacuum lines. Do I need to
take out the center console?

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships
210-681-4900
210-231-4214 (Direct)
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 1:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Another AC Problem

Your mode switch may in fact be "bad". It may be easily rebuildable. I
think it is more likely that a vacuum hose either came loose or has a
hole in it. A bad vacuum leak or a really leaky mode switch can cause
the wrong positions of the actuators so you won't get the air going
correctly through the A/C. Start by rebuilding the mode switch and



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 16:33:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Acceleration with the A/C on

Ok everyone.

I wanted to post about this to see if it's normal or
if there's something I need to fix.  If I drive my car
with the A/C on, it shifts (automatic) as it should,
but I noticed something interesting.  Right after the
car shifts from 1st to 2nd, I feel the acceleration
slow down just a bit as it prepares to go from 2nd to
3rd.  It's almost completely unnoticeable, but it's
JUST enough that I felt/noticed it and was concerned
to say the least.  Even if I floor the pedal, once it
gets done shifting from 1st to 2nd, I can feel the
rpms drop JUST a little bit (so little it doesn't even
register on the tachometer) before shifting from 2nd
into 3rd.  If I drive with no A/C going whatsoever,
the car shifts perfectly from 1st to 2nd to 3rd with
no noticeable side effects.  I know the A/C is hard on
the engine, but hard enough that I can feel the
acceleration "slow down" for maybe ..1 second..?

Jeremiah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 23:34:58 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Again-Door Seals; Inner

Dani - There is supposed to be some compression of the seals against 
the door when you close it.  If there isn't enough compression, the 
seal will leak.  If there is too much compression, the seal may 
become damaged.  If the seal that you are descibing is actually being 
pushed out of position during compression, then that is another 
story.  For the seals that you have on your car, what is the shape of 
the cross-section?  Is it a round seal with a lip that sticks out at 
an angle?  Which direction is the lip angled in ... towards the 
inside of the door opening, or towards the outside?  Or, do you have 
the version of seal that was more or less a square cross-section with 
no lip?  Give us a better picture of what you are experiencing, and 
we will be able to tell you whether it is "normal" or not.  Thanks.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Just a quick question on the inner seals-I hope you can understand
> what I mean here... Does the seals fold down with the door when you
> close it, or is the seal supposed to just sit against the steel (no
> folding)? My situation is that when I close the door, the lip of the
> seal contacts the steel of the door, causing quite a bit of the seal
> to fold with it until it is shut, and no where else does it do this.
> Usually I just push the folding parts up as I close the door, but I
> can't do this when I'm getting out of my car going somewhere-only 
when
> I'm in it (because this can only be done from the inside). I'm
> getting tired of doing this I am wondering if this
> occurance is normal? -probably not. Thanks, Dani B. 5003




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 23:46:43 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: (unknown)

I have a problem, how do I go about rebuilding my mode switch on the 
ac/ heater? 




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 00:12:36 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Another AC Problem

You haven't provided enough info yet to know what "no cold air" 
really means but, it sounds like the vacuum motor that operates the 
recirculation door is either not working (read leaking vacuum) or 
the small hose that operates the motor has come loose. It is not 
that difficult to locate and check. You can always seal-off the line 
if the motor is bad. Take off the motor and hold the door open with 
a piece of string or wire while you order a new vacuum motor. Seems 
like I used a rubber band once too.

There are about a million other things that could be wrong too but I 
would start there.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ancira Internet Department" 
<awolf_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Well, recently as temps here in Texas approach 100 deg, I am 
starting to
> have a problem. My air blows cold when I am driving, but when I 
stop, it
> doesn't. Now, when I hit the brakes, I hear a ppppppsssss from the 
passenger
> side. It sounds like a vacuum line. It only does this when the AC 
is in the
> MAX position. I spoke with 2 people, and one suggested the 
alternator might
> not have enough juice to keep the compressor on while at a stop, 
and the
> other suggested the mode switch might be bad. Can a bad mode 
switch cause
> the system not to cool? Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks!
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 00:41:39 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Pass door lock malfunction

After reading your message I took off the passenger side panels and
poked around a bit. I've removed the drivers side panels before so
this side was a breeze. The locks seemed to work fine with the panel
off-go figure. I did notice that near the solenoid theres a
plastic piece with 3 contacts in it; one in the middle, and one to
either side. It seems that when you move the lock switch, there's a
contact plate that rubs over 2 of the contacts pending if the lock is
in the locked position or unlocked position. Well when I move it in to
the lock position the contact plate moves right over the one contact
so its about in the middle of that part of the plate, when I move it
to unlock, the other plate only goes a little bit over the other
contact. The one in the middle always has a good amount over it to
contact. I hope you know what I'm talking about. I suspect this as a
problem? My thoughts were perhaps these parts weren't making a
complete contact and tripping the locks back to locked-and perhaps
when I try to unlock it will not unlock because the plate doesn't make
contact with the ones in the plastic piece. I can bend the rod to make
it contact better, or even unscrew
the switch and move the switch. Well the switch is moved all the way
down so I can't move it anymore to help those contacts out. Also I
didn't find that "U" shaped piece you were describing-where abouts is
this? I figured I
would see if the contacts could be a problem before I start bending
stuff :). Thank you so much for the help! Dani B.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Dani,
> 
> One of two things, probably:
> 
> 1. Your door lock controller could be "sticking" on the relays. I
> recommend a rebuild or replace with Lockzilla.
> 
> 2. I had my doors apart last night for the installation of new
> lightweight lock actuators from DPNW. I noticed that my forward
> release lever was "flexing/bending" when I tried to open the door.
> This caused the whole mechanism to shift somewhat, and about half
the
> time it shi




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:14:55 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Another AC Problem

In a message dated 7/2/04 4:04:40 PM Central Daylight Time, awolf_at_dml_ancira.com 
writes:


> I crawled under the dash, but couldn't find any vacuum lines. Do I need to
> take out the center console?
> 

The majority of the vacuum lines are best inspected when the center console 
is removed so you can see behind the radio bracket.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 00:43:30 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Yellow D in Auction?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Ron, your car is being sold on ebay right now. Sort of... look at 
> item # 3919107439 There is some sort of weird auction for a bill 
> worth 10 shillings with your yellow D photoshopped across the 
front. 
> Thought you'd want to know someone is "selling" your car sort of.
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> 2524 & 16634

Thanks for the heads up... we've contacted e-bay to have the cheesy 
10 shilling fake note items removed since the person in the U.K. 
didn't ask us about selling pictures of our car.  It appears that no 
one has bid and/or wants to anyway.

Ron & Cheryl Wester
(& Screamin' yellow D)
Gullwing Magazine




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:56:29 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Weirdness

> From: therealdmcvegas

> Nope, I'm dead serious. A while back, this debate did occur here on
> the list, and we pretty much reached an over all agreement on what was
> appropriate, and what was not. The 1982 version of the Owner's
> Handbook really cuts thru things on what is needed, and what isn't.

Interesting, I missed that.  I'll have to look again.

> But it was pretty courteous. Only 2 true flamewars have ever
> errupted on the DML.

Somehow I missed them too (I had ISP problems for a while, probably happened
then)
which would be why I thought the oil discussions were about as close as it
ever got to flaming around here.

I've been plugged in to the net for close to 20 years, and this is, by and
large, a very level-headed group compared to some that I've seen.

Thanks again.
--Scott




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 02:57:24 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Fuel accumulator

I am wondering if there is any way to test the accumulator while its
in the car. Today I had to use the "hot start" fix to start my car
hours after I parked it. The accumulator was replaced 5/11/01- so the
reciept shows from the previous owner. This problem is getting old
real fast, I hate that my car won't start when I need to go. Dani B.
VIN5003




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 03:44:08 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 2256 is alive

I finally got my car running! After what was suppose to be to just 
replace the battery that turned into a $3000 fix up, I finally heard 
my delorean run today. At first it was idling very crazy, fluxuating 
from 600 to 1200 rpm's I found and fixed the vacuum leak at the idle 
tube now it idle's at normal (around 1000rpm). However I have 
another problem. when the engine runs it make a very high pitched 
squeal. It didn't have this problem before when it had a crappy 
idle. What is it? I think it is the throttle but I am not sure.

Thanks to John Hervey and DMCH for helping to return this car back 
to life and all of you who helped me with my questions.

Jason
2256  




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 18:04:38 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

I am planning to replace my plastic coolant reservoir.  Should I replace it
with a stainless steel reservoir?

DMCH is out of stock.  Who else would have it?

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
VIN 6667





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 04:46:35 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel accumulator

Yes - on one end of the accumulator there is a single hose. Clamp it 
with a pair of needle-nose vice grips. If this fixes the problem the 
accumulator is bad. If it does not fix the problem, it's probably the 
check valve in the fuel pump.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am wondering if there is any way to test the accumulator while its
> in the car. Today I had to use the "hot start" fix to start my car
> hours after I parked it. The accumulator was replaced 5/11/01- so 
the
> reciept shows from the previous owner. This problem is getting old
> real fast, I hate that my car won't start when I need to go. Dani B.
> VIN5003




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 23:45:52 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: mode switch

DMCH has a rebuild kit, K114752. 

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Auto Groups
210-231-4214
210-681-4900


-----Original Message-----
From: andy [mailto:andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 6:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] (unknown)

I have a problem, how do I go about rebuilding my mode switch on the 
ac/ heater? 




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 23:48:18 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

I saw it at PJ Grady I think.

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Auto Groups
210-231-4214
210-681-4900


-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Smith [mailto:roland_at_dml_dnai.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 8:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Stainless steel coolant resovoir

I am planning to replace my plastic coolant reservoir.  Should I replace
it
with a stainless steel reservoir?

DMCH is out of stock.  Who else would have it?



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 23:24:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Previous Jack Stand and Tire Roar Threads

Put 2 new (to me) tires on the truck today. Left the front end up in
the air and took only only the rims in. Brought to mind previous
threads Re: jack stands vs ramps and tire roar:

- A definite advantage of jack stands over ramps is they allow you to
work on the vehicle without the wheels in place (try doing a brake job
with ramps)

- Aggressive treads are MUCH noisier than highway treads (replacement
tires are M+S). Because the truck has no soundproofing whatsoever, I
now hear them roaring even over the sound of the engine.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 05:11:40 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Pass door lock malfunction

Dani - The adjustments in the shop manual are all about making sure 
that this wiper switch (as it is called) is in the correct position 
depending on whether the locks are "on" or "off".  Secondarily, the 
adjustments take out all freeplay and slack in the system so that 
everything moves crisply.  I found on Winged1 that the pivot point 
for the lock bellcrank (that holds the wiper switch) was worn, 
letting the bellcrank flop around quiite a bit.  I tightened up the 
rivet by carefully driving it with a hammer to make it pivot 
properly, and then cleaned the contact surfaces (both the copper 
pins imbedded in the plastic, and the thin copper sheaves that move) 
with emery cloth and degreaser.  The best thing is to get the 
manual, and follow the instructions to the letter.  After that is 
done, you can then debug the rest of the locking system.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
It seems that when you move the lock switch, there's a
> contact plate that rubs over 2 of the contacts pending if the lock 
is in the locked position or unlocked position...  My thoughts were 
perhaps these parts weren't making a complete contact and tripping 
the locks back to locked-and perhaps when I try to unlock it will 
not unlock because the plate doesn't make contact with the ones in 
the plastic piece. I can bend the rod to make it contact better, or 
even unscrew the switch and move the switch. Well the switch is 
moved all the way down so I can't move it anymore to help those 
contacts out. Also I didn't find that "U" shaped piece you were 
describing-where abouts is this? I figured I would see if the 
contacts could be a problem before I start bending stuff  




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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 07:09:12 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

I would replace it with a new plastic reservoir.
My stainless bottle went back to the basement.
If you ever have a water leakage - the stainless bottle 
won't tell you at all.
A plastic bottle will !

There are also bottles out here with a low-water-switch
that could be connected to the LAMBDA bulb in the dash.

I'm sure Toby Peterson can provide you with such a bottle.

Elvis & 6548...with new head gaskets because of a stainless bottle !



I am planning to replace my plastic coolant reservoir.  Should I replace it
with a stainless steel reservoir?

DMCH is out of stock.  Who else would have it?

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
VIN 6667






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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 02:03:52 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: 2256 is alive

Hey Jason

First of all, good job on getting your car going!

Did you replace any belts, pulleys, or the water pump? After I replaced my
pump, it squealed for just a little while.

Just a thought..

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 11:44 PM
Subject: [DML] 2256 is alive


> I finally got my car running! After what was suppose to be to just
> replace the battery that turned into a $3000 fix up, I finally heard
> my delorean run today. At first it was idling very crazy, fluxuating
> from 600 to 1200 rpm's I found and fixed the vacuum leak at the idle
> tube now it idle's at normal (around 1000rpm). However I have
> another problem. when the engine runs it make a very high pitched
> squeal. It didn't have this problem before when it had a crappy
> idle. What is it? I think it is the throttle but I am not sure.
>



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