From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2103
Date: Sunday, July 04, 2004 2:57 PM

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Again-Door Seals; Inner
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

2. Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Acceleration with the A/C on
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Fuel accumulator Test
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Car Insurance in Texas
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

8. Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

9. Re: DPNW Lock Actuators - here is the link
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

10. Re: PF show... one more thing...
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>

11. Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Re: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Acceleration with the A/C on
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

14. Re: Re: Fuel accumulator Test
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

15. Re: Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

16. Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. Happy 4th of July from PNDC
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

18. Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Another Unusual Vacuum Leak
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Removing Rotors
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: Happy 4th of July from PNDC
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

22. Angle Drive
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. AW: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

24. Re: Removing Rotors
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 06:54:27 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Again-Door Seals; Inner

Toby,
	Okay, Now I need YOU or someone capable to INSTALL your Wings Aloft Kit for
me.   I will provide lodging and steaks.   I am not able to bring my car
there, nor do the work.  I don't "bend" like I used to, now that I am 83.  I
Do have your Toby Tabs installed.  I have Remote Start and door lock/unlock
alarm system etc installed.  I also have the window lift for drivers window,
but not installed.  Take a vacation and come on over here to SouthEastern
Washington!!
Murray
Vin:05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Walla Walla, WA





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 14:32:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test

You're not supposed to have fuel coming out of the back of the
accumulator. If it does, is leaking past the piston. Simply pull the
hose off and see what comes out (yes, fuel will come out the loose
hose from the return side, so position it accordingly). 

Cold start injector doesn't need full line pressure to spray. But even
it will eventually run dry if you keep cranking the engine without
starting.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I don't understand that comment. All the fuel hoses are full of fuel 
> all the time. By clamping off that relief line you will stop the 
> accumulator from allowing pressure on the high side to bleed down 
> quickly. This is not a permanent fix by any means but is a very 
> legitimate way to test for the problem. 
> 
> The cold start injector,although electrically operated, still 
> requires pressure from the fuel pump to work. It does not have it's 
> own pump. The reason it works is that it will let fuel thru at much 
> lower pressure than the mechanical injectors. But it still needs 
> pressure and a working fuel pump.
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 07:47:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

Gradys is the way to go, ive been very happy with it. 
It is easily cleaned with windex too if need be.


jordan

11613







--- Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> If I were to replace mine I would use the stainless
> resevoir from 
> www.pjgrady.com 
> 



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 15:10:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

I also replaced my plastic header bottle with a S/S bottle and did not
like losing the ability to check the coolant level. My solution was to
add an overflow bottle so now I can see the level hot or cold. BTW the
S/S bottle did not kill your motor. You MUST have had some warning.
Were you watching your temperture gauge? You cannot see your plastic
bottle from the driver's seat!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I would replace it with a new plastic reservoir.
> My stainless bottle went back to the basement.
> If you ever have a water leakage - the stainless bottle 
> won't tell you at all.
> A plastic bottle will !
> 
> There are also bottles out here with a low-water-switch
> that could be connected to the LAMBDA bulb in the dash.
> 
> I'm sure Toby Peterson can provide you with such a bottle.
> 
> Elvis & 6548...with new head gaskets because of a stainless bottle !
> 
> 
> 
> I am planning to replace my plastic coolant reservoir.  Should I
replace it
> with a stainless steel reservoir?
> 
> DMCH is out of stock.  Who else would have it?
> 
> Roland Smith
> Oakland, California
> VIN 6667




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 15:07:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Acceleration with the A/C on

Check the fluid level as per G:04:02 first. Next make sure the vacuum
line to the vacuum modulater is hooked up and not leaking. Now do the
line pressure adjustment as per G:05:03. When there is a transmission
problem it is usually a good idea to go over ALL of the external
procedures first to catch any of the obvious stuff. You could have a
leaky or sticky vacuum modulater. It can be opened, cleaned, lubed,
and replace the "O" ring. Or you can replace the thing. When you check
the fluid level also look at the fluid color and feel it between your
fingers. If it is dark and/or gritty it should be changed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Ok everyone.
> 
> I wanted to post about this to see if it's normal or
> if there's something I need to fix.  If I drive my car
> with the A/C on, it shifts (automatic) as it should,
> but I noticed something interesting.  Right after the
> car shifts from 1st to 2nd, I feel the acceleration
> slow down just a bit as it prepares to go from 2nd to
> 3rd.  It's almost completely unnoticeable, but it's
> JUST enough that I felt/noticed it and was concerned
> to say the least.  Even if I floor the pedal, once it
> gets done shifting from 1st to 2nd, I can feel the
> rpms drop JUST a little bit (so little it doesn't even
> register on the tachometer) before shifting from 2nd
> into 3rd.  If I drive with no A/C going whatsoever,
> the car shifts perfectly from 1st to 2nd to 3rd with
> no noticeable side effects.  I know the A/C is hard on
> the engine, but hard enough that I can feel the
> acceleration "slow down" for maybe ..1 second..?
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 15:22:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel accumulator Test

Clamping off the line is not a difinative test. I much prefer to
remove the relief line coming off the top of the acumulater and clamp
the hose. Then I put a short piece of hose on the acumulater into a
pail. Now you have an infallible visual test. If any quantity of fuel
comes out of the acumulater from that port when you run the fuel pump
you KNOW that the diaphram is leaking. BTW I have seen black chunks
come out. Pieces of a blown diaphram. I prefer to see them come into
my pail rather than into the gas tank. In any case if you do replace a
bad acumulater I think it is good practice to clean out the fuel tank
to get rid of those chunks. This all happens before the fuel filter
you know. Another point to make. When Rob Grady does an inspection
under the car he now pays special attention to that little hose from
the top of the acumulater. He says he is seeing a lot more cars with
that hose all cracked up (probably from age deterioration). If that
hose lets go you will have fuel all over because it is part of the
return circuit for the fuel distributer sending excess fuel back to
the tank.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I don't understand that comment. All the fuel hoses are full of fuel 
> all the time. By clamping off that relief line you will stop the 
> accumulator from allowing pressure on the high side to bleed down 
> quickly. This is not a permanent fix by any means but is a very 
> legitimate way to test for the problem. 
> 
> The cold start injector,although electrically operated, still 
> requires pressure from the fuel pump to work. It does not have it's 
> own pump. The reason it works is that it will let fuel thru at much 
> lower pressure than the mechanical injectors. But it still needs 
> pressure and a working fuel pump.
> 




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 15:59:19 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Car Insurance in Texas

I may be getting a Delorean very soon. I need to arrange for car 
insurance as my current comapany is giving me a high quote. I live in 
Houston Texas. Can some Texas drivers contact me off list and let me 
know who they use and an idea of the rates they pay? If you have a 
name of an agent in Houston that would be helpful.

Shannon




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 11:26:10 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

SpecialTAuto or PJ Grady or deloreanmotorcenter

Mark V


On Friday, July 2, 2004, at 08:04  PM, Roland Smith wrote:

> I am planning to replace my plastic coolant reservoir.  Should I 
> replace it
> with a stainless steel reservoir?
>



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 17:31:39 -0000
From: "ronin5030" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: DPNW Lock Actuators - here is the link

Just thought I would do a little advertising for Toby

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=9001




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 19:57:26 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: PF show... one more thing...

yea..i also have one complaint.....i had the same problem with 
names.....no one could spell my name right....it is baxter....not 
baster.....no big deal tough!:)

john
hawaii
#5458




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 20:01:40 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test

Well I've had plenty of time to poke around the car today, so I began
with the fuel pump. Took it out and it seems that the check valve
works, but lets a very slight amount through. How I checked this out
was totally removing the pump and blowing through a line attached to
the pump. There was a small amount of air felt coming through the
bottom so that valve must be on its way out. I will reinstall the pump
and then go on to the accumulator. The method of putting the one line
in a pale sounded the easiest to see what is really going on. I will
try this and let you all know what happens. Thank you all so much for
your help! Dani B. #5003




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 15:27:17 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

Hervey sells them too, I think they are from the same source:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/waterbottle.jpg


>From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Stainless steel coolant resovoir
>Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 07:47:37 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Gradys is the way to go, ive been very happy with it.
>It is easily cleaned with windex too if need be.
>
>



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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 21:25:24 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Acceleration with the A/C on

--- Icheck
> the fluid level also look at the fluid color and feel it between your
> fingers. If it is dark and/or gritty it should be changed.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 

If your auto-tranny fluid is dark and gritty, then your transmission
is probably already screwed.  A good reason to change fluid regularly
whether it looks ok or not.


Richard Rowe
VIN5853




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 17:45:57 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel accumulator Test

yeah- listen to David- If you change your accumlator, change those little
rubber hoses too while your down there. 6 hours after my accumulator was
replaced, I was stranded in a parking lot with a gas leak from that little
hose. Not much fun to get under to the accumulator at midnight..

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2004 11:22 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel accumulator Test


> Clamping off the line is not a difinative test. I much prefer to
> remove the relief line coming off the top of the acumulater and clamp
> the hose. Then I put a short piece of hose on the acumulater into a
> pail. Now you have an infallible visual test. If any quantity of fuel
> comes out of the acumulater from that port when you run the fuel pump
> you KNOW that the diaphram is leaking. BTW I have seen black chunks
> come out. Pieces of a blown diaphram. I prefer to see them come into
> my pail rather than into the gas tank. In any case if you do replace a
> bad acumulater I think it is good practice to clean out the fuel tank
> to get rid of those chunks. This all happens before the fuel filter
> you know. Another point to make. When Rob Grady does an inspection
> under the car he now pays special attention to that little hose from
> the top of the acumulater. 
>



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 17:47:20 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test

Do you have the longneck fuel pump with the built-in check valve?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2004 4:01 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test


> Well I've had plenty of time to poke around the car today, so I began
> with the fuel pump. Took it out and it seems that the check valve
> works, but lets a very slight amount through. How I checked this out
> was totally removing the pump and blowing through a line attached to
> the pump. There was a small amount of air felt coming through the
> bottom so that valve must be on its way out. I



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 00:13:05 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test

I'm not sure what pump it is, I am under the impression it is the
orignal. Either way it doesn't matter because upon reinstallation-the
pump gives way too low of a pressure to run the car, so I need a new
one, guess its about time though. When I took the pump out, I noticed
that it's been messed with, from the previous owner or a shop or
somebody. The top of the pump is all chewed up from someone trying to
get it open-looks like vice grips or something. I looked at a picture
of a new pump and there is an indented line that goes all around the
top of the pump, mine doesn't have this;it is all chewed off-and I can
see that this line is supposed to keep the top piece of the pump in
the housing. Also I noticed that the pump's electrical connector is
faulty, causing the pump to stop in a certain position that breaks the
circut. So I suppose this was my problem all along- an old pump that
someone messed around with. So now I am planning on buying specialT's
high volume pump, I just hope I can get it and install it with little
delay, as for now I am without a vehicle. Thank you all for your help-
Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Do you have the longneck fuel pump with the built-in check valve?
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2004 4:01 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test
> 
> 
> > Well I've had plenty of time to poke around the car today, so I
began
> > with the fuel pump. Took it out and it seems that the check valve
> > works, but lets a very slight amount through. How I checked this
out
> > was totally removing the pump and blowing through a line attached
to
> > the pump. There was a small amount of air felt coming through the
> > bottom so that valve must be on its way out. I




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 17:06:21 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: Happy 4th of July from PNDC

Happy 4th of July from the Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club.

Check out the DeLorean Fireworks at http://www.PNDC.org/fireworks 

Even if you that don't celebrate the 4th of July as the birthday of the
United States of America, have a great July 4th anyway.

Gary
IN2TIME




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 00:18:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Continued: Fuel accumulator Test

That is no way to test the check valve. Air will not seal the valve.
Do the test on the acumulater. If it doesn't have a blown diaphram
then I would suspect the check valve. The other 3rd possability is a
sticking pressure regulater on the fuel distributer but that is much
less likely.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Well I've had plenty of time to poke around the car today, so I began
> with the fuel pump. Took it out and it seems that the check valve
> works, but lets a very slight amount through. How I checked this out
> was totally removing the pump and blowing through a line attached to
> the pump. There was a small amount of air felt coming through the
> bottom so that valve must be on its way out. I will reinstall the pump
> and then go on to the accumulator. The method of putting the one line
> in a pale sounded the easiest to see what is really going on. I will
> try this and let you all know what happens. Thank you all so much for
> your help! Dani B. #5003




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 00:31:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Another Unusual Vacuum Leak

I am still working on the same car that had the wrong length screw
that created the leak at the knock-out plug on the inlet manifold.
Going over all the parts I found that the "O" ring on the cold start
valve was missing. You can see it in the Parts Manual 2-2-1 # 4. This
is a perfect example of the many things you must go in and redoe
because of a dreaded P.O. and his "mechanic". This car has extra
wiring running all over from the otterstadt switch, an extra ground
wire for the fuel pump, a hack job for a radio install, loose wiring
left over from a radar detector, and every day I find more. I cannot
over emphacize the importance of finding and correcting all of the
previous work that has been done on your car BEFORE you can start to
get it working right. BTW the vent hose on the carbon cannister (the
one coming out of the bottom of it) was solidly plugged up. If you get
a smell of fuel or there seems to be too much pressure when you take
your fuel cap off on a hot day I suggest you check that your hose is
not plugged up. While you are in there you can replace the small round
filter inside. The bottom snaps off and the filter slides out. You
should be able to pick one up locally for around $2. It is a Fram #
CA-357 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 04:19:11 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Removing Rotors

I'm in the process of rebuilding my brakes.  I'm going to have the 
front rotors trued and turned by a local shop but I'm having a hard 
time getting them off.

I have both hub nuts removed, (inside and out including the angle 
drive), but I don't see anywhere else to unbolt anything.  The 
manuals don't go into this so I'm a bit lost.

I know that I'm going to have to re-pack the bearings when I remove 
the hubs so I am prepared for this venture.

I can honestly say that anyone who has recently purchased a 
DeLorean, (or has never inspected their brakes), needs to check 
them!  Mine are horrific and I'm ashamed of myself for not doing 
this sooner.

Johnny
5518




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 07:02:58 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Happy 4th of July from PNDC

Gary, you're a troublemaker! I'm sitting here at 12:00 am. Kids are
sleeping. I've got the volume on the subwoofer turned waaaayyy up
because I was watching a movie six hours ago and forgot to turn it
back down. So I load your page, and click above the DeLorean. Oh,
lookie - pretty little firework streaming towards the *BOOM*. 

Subwoofer about knocked me out of my seat. ;) That's what I get for
staying up so late. 

Cool animation - thanks for sharing!

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_I...> wrote:
> Happy 4th of July from the Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club.
> 
> Check out the DeLorean Fireworks at http://www.PNDC.org/fireworks 
> 
> Even if you that don't celebrate the 4th of July as the birthday of the
> United States of America, have a great July 4th anyway.
> 
> Gary
> IN2TIME




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 03:07:41 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Angle Drive



Ok, just thought I would find out how many of us are out there that have 
installed a new
angle drive and have it splinter apart when you back out of the driveway the 
first time?
Joe O, and Shannon Y, helped me install a brand new drive today. Took about 
an hour or so.
Got it all back together, backed out of the drive way, and drove down the 
street, and it wasnt
working. Took it all back apart, and the end was sheared off and all 
splintered.
Has this happened to anyone else besides Video Bob?

  Dustin
#6746

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar  get it now! 
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2004 09:49:10 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Stainless steel coolant resovoir

Dabie,
of course I watched my temp gauge. At the time the needle went up 
about a gallon of water was already missing !

This happened so fast I almost couldn't believe. And yes, I checked the 
coolant level the day before. This is why I am so afraid now.

By the way - the new bottle has a "low water" switch that will turn on
a light (LAMBDA) in the dash and maybe a buzzer, too.

Also I can check the level now by simply walking around the car.
The water level can be seen thru the engine covers !

As long as there is no possibility to check the level on the stainless 
bottle (without taking off the cap) I won't install it anymore. 

Also the plastic bottle is cheap. About 25% of what some vendors charge 
for the nice stainless ones. Optically I still prefer stainless. But
this is about the safety of my little engine. You proved the problem, too
with your overflow bottle.

Elvis & 6548



I also replaced my plastic header bottle with a S/S bottle and did not
like losing the ability to check the coolant level. My solution was to
add an overflow bottle so now I can see the level hot or cold. BTW the
S/S bottle did not kill your motor. You MUST have had some warning.
Were you watching your temperture gauge? You cannot see your plastic
bottle from the driver's seat!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 13:46:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Rotors

Put the nut back on the inside of the spindle our you'll likely pull 
the spindle out of the knuckle. If that happens you'll have the hub 
off with the spindle still stuck in it, which makes it even harder to 
get apart.

After the Big Nut is removed the hub and rotor should should slide 
off. But sometimes they don't. You should be able to rent a hub 
puller (a very large slide hammer) from a rental place. This bolts on 
to the lug studs and then you slide a big weight to pull it off. 

This will probably pop the inner roller bearing out of the carrier. 
The bearings are supposed to be sealed, i.e. you don't re-pack them 
because you can't get them sealed again, bu I've seen it done. 

Using the slide hammer will probably leave the center of the bearing 
race on the spindle (THAT is what is stuck). You may need some other 
sort of large jaw puller to get that off. Do not be tempted to leave 
it there and assemble the bearing in place. If you do that you'll end 
up with no seal on the inner bearing and it won't last very long. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I'm in the process of rebuilding my brakes.  I'm going to have the 
> front rotors trued and turned by a local shop but I'm having a hard 
> time getting them off.
> 
> I have both hub nuts removed, (inside and out including the angle 
> drive), but I don't see anywhere else to unbolt anything.  The 
> manuals don't go into this so I'm a bit lost.
> 
> I know that I'm going to have to re-pack the bearings when I remove 
> the hubs so I am prepared for this venture.
> 



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