From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2104
Date: Monday, July 05, 2004 11:54 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: [DMLWhats a Delorean Worth?
From: "lotusshaney" <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

3. Cars for sale again
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. wiring problem
From: "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

5. Too much fuel
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <deloreandan_at_dml_usa.com>

6. Re: Angle Drive
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Clutch / Shifting Problems
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. DPNW Door Lock Actuator Question
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Efi
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

10. O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

11. Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Re: Clutch / Shifting Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

14. Bill Robertson is a genius! AC retrofit success!
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

15. Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Clutch / Shifting Problems
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Ken K's Carpet Samples
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. brakes
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

19. RE: Too much fuel
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. RE: brakes
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Re: PF show... one more thing...
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. RE: wiring problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. RE: wiring problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: brakes
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2004 07:50:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Question( A/C expect needed)

Tom thanks for e-mailing me back.  I did look under the car last nite and the fans were turning counter-clockwise is that right?  Also the connections to the fans were a bit loose i.e one running however they are secure now and both running but I still have 61 F.  I did also notice a small piece about 3 in. long  missing on top of the radiator shroud (Pax. side fan) but I doubt that it would cause the problem.  The fins look fairly clean, later in the week I see I f I can't get more into it. Again thanks for the advice, looks like I've got more issues with the A/C than I thought I don't know?  Give a call or vice versa (954) 465-8128, John and yes I'm polish.  Looks like am going to need alot of help with this one not an A/C guy!

Tom <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl> wrote: John,
Are both of your cooling fans running? Are they turning the correct way? The
pressures are a bit high even for FL heat. Also make sure that the shroud
for the radiator is good and nothing is blocking the air flow (make sure
nothing is stuck in the condenser fins).
I converted my D to R134a and the temperature at the vents was 40 to 45 F
with around 90F outside - also in Florida.
If you need more help you can contact me directly.
Good luck!

Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Podlewski" 


> A/C only gets down to 61 F. I am using R134a and have recharged and evac.
several times. I even flushed the both hoses and the condenser TWICE
installed a new orifice tube TWICE, first one was a little dirty and put on
a new accumulator. Short of replacing a perfectly good compressor (good
pressures 45 low and 250 high _at_dml_ idle) and condenser I don't know what to do
next. The system is completely clean now but still not cold. the
accumulator seems just moist and dripping a little but not cold just cool?
> 



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 14:59:14 -0000
From: "lotusshaney" <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [DMLWhats a Delorean Worth?

Jim,

I'm very interested in your car.  I have emailed you off list but incase you dont get it am 
posting my interest here.

Let Me Know

Dan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> Putting the stock intake back on is easy. So is putting the stock seats back in. They're in 
perfect shape. And there are no irreversible mods. You're right, a person with experience, 
familiarity with DeLoreans and technical ability would see the mods differently than a new 
comer would.
> 
> I'd be willing to roll back the mods (Intake and seats) if thats what it would take, but I'd 
hate to take off the EFI. It's just too nice an upgrade to go back to CIS.
> 



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2004 13:05:22 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Cars for sale again

As most of you have seen I have two cars that had been for sale and are or 
were sale pending.

It appears that the financing for neither car is there so these two cars are 
available again.

The one car is the 170 mile car on the web site.  It was in the Houston DMCH 
concours and is a real clean car.  (see pics at www.delroeancarshow.com)

I will be removing the sale pending note as soon as Gary can update it. That 
car is $28K 
It will be going back into Hemmings at $30K in a month or so.

The other car is one I am restoring.

If you are interested or know someone interested in the car I want $16,500 
firm for it.
It will have new tires, brakes, powdercoated wheels, At this point a choice 
of light grey or black interior,  With the black interior would come new seat 
covers, The inside would be upgraded to newer or new carpets etc.  Also it has 
a new fuel system, starter.  The crumple zone was in bad shape so it was 
replaced and it is like new.  The undercarriage has been bead blasted and repainted 
so it looks great. 

The front facia is repainted, new struts, and a bunch more.

It is at the point I am putting in a Stereo so if you want a car and want 
some stuff in it that is custom now is the time. (depending on what you add there 
may be an adder here)

For the next few weeks I will be working on the interior so you can choose 
colors as I have all the colors.

So if interested let me know I expect it to be done by mid august.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:30:40 -0000
From: "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: wiring problem

List,

     I had to rewire my D due to a burned harness. I am having trouble
finding a place to plug in a 2 prong male plug with a black wire and a
red one. The old harness was too far gone to ID anything. This 6 inch
2-wire pig-tail branches out of the harness at the ballest resistors,
therefore it should plug in some where near the resistors, but I can't
find the mate to it. My Fluke meter tells me that it is a 1 mirco
fared capactor. Can anyone help?

Steve




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 18:08:17 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <deloreandan_at_dml_usa.com>
Subject: Too much fuel

Ok, I'm getting way too much fuel.  More than usual because I can 
smell it really bad.  There are no leaks in the fuel lines.  O2 
Sensor is working, frequency valve is working.  I actually have to 
disconnect the cold start valve to get her started.  I'm thinking 
that my fuel control pressure regulator died on me.  Does anyone have 
any other suggestions that I should be looking at before I spend the 
money on a new regulator?

Thanks

~Dan

3817 Born Again





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 18:28:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive

Did you lub all the cables? Sounds like the lower speedometer cable 
is frozen or, something isn't turning freely like the lambda 
counter, etc. 

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Ok, just thought I would find out how many of us are out there 
that have 
> installed a new
> angle drive and have it splinter apart when you back out of the 
driveway the 
> first time?
> Joe O, and Shannon Y, helped me install a brand new drive today. 
Took about 
> an hour or so.
> Got it all back together, backed out of the drive way, and drove 
down the 
> street, and it wasnt
> working. Took it all back apart, and the end was sheared off and 
all 
> splintered.
> Has this happened to anyone else besides Video Bob?
> 
>   Dustin
> #6746
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar  get it now! 
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 20:16:38 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Clutch / Shifting Problems

Hello all! I am having a bit of trouble with my clutch. It seems 
that since it has gotten hot that I am having a harder time keeping 
pressure on my clutch. Before the heat started, my clutch was real 
stiff and never had a problem shifting through gears. Not it likes 
to grind the gears a bit (especially reverse). But if I pump the 
clutch for a while it will work for a while. Plenty of fluids. Any 
suggestions?

Adam Lee
VIN 1913




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2004 11:06:44 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DPNW Door Lock Actuator Question

Since my door lock solenoids are absolutely shot, I am considering purchasing 
the actuators.   My only concern is that I have the door launcher kit that 
Darryl Tinnerset used to sell before he sold the business to Toby.   Since the 
door lock module is no longer used with the actuators, can I still use the 
remote lock/unlock feature?   As I recall, I wired the control module into the 
door lock module to get the doors to lock and unlock.   Its hard to picture how 
these new ones work.

Thanks,
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 21:04:12 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Efi

The SDS ECU I'm using is working fine. Over 12,000 miles so far. If I did it again I would use a different ECU. The SDS unit I used works great, but the proramming on the SDS does not use a PC, rather it uses it's own controller/programmer. Very convenient, and you can do almost anything you want to with it, including monitor all the engine sensors real time. Its called gauge mode and you can see TPS values, temps, rpm, duty cycle etc. The down side is that it cannot record those same values so you can't really fine tune it as easily as some other units. I'd consider the MegaSquirt kits from a cost perspective if I were to do this again.

Jim 
6147


nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com wrote:

>Hi, I was reading an old post by Jim Witherspoon regarding his Efi 
>conversion. I am almost ready to undertake a simular conversion 
>while i have my body off and can climb around the engine easily. 
>Just wondering Jim if you would do anything differently now or is 
>the system still working fine? Also did you post any pics of this? 
>
>Thanks NIck 10927



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 01:09:21 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?

I am re-assembling my exhaust system after some gasket work. During 
the proceedure I removed the O2 sensor. When I put it back in I 
would like to use Loctite C5-A anti-seize, good to 1800 deg. F.
I think I remember someone say you shouldn't use anti-seize 
with the O2 sensor because it will "foul" it and ruin it. Does 
anyone know?
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 03:51:55 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?

When I did my sensor, I didn't even use anti-seize. I think as long as
you don't over tighten it upon installation you will be good to go.
The original sensor wasn't overtightened and after all these years
came out with little troubles. If you do use anti-seize, I don't see
how using it on the threads would cause problems-as long as you don't
apply too much that when you install it the compound will run down and
into the sensor. -Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I am re-assembling my exhaust system after some gasket work. During 
> the proceedure I removed the O2 sensor. When I put it back in I 
> would like to use Loctite C5-A anti-seize, good to 1800 deg. F.
> I think I remember someone say you shouldn't use anti-seize 
> with the O2 sensor because it will "foul" it and ruin it. Does 
> anyone know?
> Thanks,
> Stephen
> Vin 3601




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 04:08:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch / Shifting Problems

Sounds like you're still using the original plastic clutch line. Not
only is it old under the best of circumstances, but is routed adjacent
to the A/C high side (HOT!). Becomes soft and expands rather than
forcing fluid through to the slave cylinder (just like an old brake
flex line).

Buy an upgraded teflon/braided clutch line from your vendor of choice.
A bit more expensive than making your own, but plug & play convenience.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all! I am having a bit of trouble with my clutch. It seems 
> that since it has gotten hot that I am having a harder time keeping 
> pressure on my clutch. Before the heat started, my clutch was real 
> stiff and never had a problem shifting through gears. Not it likes 
> to grind the gears a bit (especially reverse). But if I pump the 
> clutch for a while it will work for a while. Plenty of fluids. Any 
> suggestions?
> 
> Adam Lee
> VIN 1913




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2004 22:25:50 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?

Put anti-seize on the treads only, do not put it on the sensor. Anti 
seize will only harm the O2 sensor if it gets inside the unit. If you 
bought a new O2 sensor chances it already has Anti-seize on the threads 
already.

Mark V


On Sunday, July 4, 2004, at 08:09  PM, Stephen Card wrote:

> I am re-assembling my exhaust system after some gasket work. During
> the proceedure I removed the O2 sensor. When I put it back in I
> would like to use Loctite C5-A anti-seize, good to 1800 deg. F.
> I think I remember someone say you shouldn't use anti-seize
> with the O2 sensor because it will "foul" it and ruin it. Does
> anyone know?



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 07:05:56 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: Bill Robertson is a genius! AC retrofit success!

I finally decided to go for R 134a retrofitting.  I believe I had a very slow leak in the system while running R12 (shops could not detect one) but my compressor would begin to cycle rapidly and cooling would be unacceptable.  I bought a new compressor from John Hervey at PF, and I followed Bill Robertson's retrofititng instructions on the DMC NEWs tech page.  They are simply brilliant, especially for those of us with out  vaccuum pump capable of pulling a good vaccuum on the system. (bill's method uses engine vaccuum to suck on the system.  I now have air just as cold as my other delorean's R12 system, and the compressor does not cycle nearly as much as it did before.  I also bought R 134a at walmart for 3.62/can, this is a good deal if anyone else needs any.
Anyway, My air is cool now, and that is what matters.
Joe P.
VIN 17167 6808
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 12:57:16 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: O2 Sensor and Anti-seize?

New sensors come with anti-seize already applied to the threads. A 
must on the o2 sensor. Just don't get the stuff on the sensor part. 
BTW, Why are you re-using the old sensor? Are you sure it is OK?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I am re-assembling my exhaust system after some gasket work. 
During 
> the proceedure I removed the O2 sensor. When I put it back in I 
> would like to use Loctite C5-A anti-seize, good to 1800 deg. F.
> I think I remember someone say you shouldn't use anti-seize 
> with the O2 sensor because it will "foul" it and ruin it. Does 



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 09:10:22 EDT
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch / Shifting Problems


Have you replaced the clutch line that came on the car? If not be sure to  
replace the line with the new stainless steel line that you can get at any of  
the Delorean parts stores on line. If you have the new lines on already then  
probably all you need to do is to bleed the clutch, if you need to know how to  
do this, contact me since I just did this three days ago, and it isn't fun. 
 andy


>In a message dated 7/4/2004 9:55:36 PM Central Daylight Time,  
>delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

>Hello  all! I am having a bit of trouble with my clutch. It seems 
>that since it  has gotten hot that I am having a harder time keeping 
>pressure on my  clutch. 



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 03:59:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Ken K's Carpet Samples

A while back you were sampling carpet sets from several after market
manufacturers. What were the results? Did you find one that you can
recommend?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The inside would be upgraded to newer or new carpets etc.  





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 13:26:54 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: brakes

I tried to bleed my brakes per the instructions, problem is this I 
get no fluid out of the right rear lines(only one I have tried). I 
have a pedal that is all the way on the floor no brakes at all. I 
have my better half hold the pedal down while i opened the valve but 
no fluid in fact did this quite a few times but still no fluid. I 
removed the plug just in case it was stopped up still no fluid. The 
Reservoir is full of fluid, hey guys where do I go from here?




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 09:18:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Too much fuel

Dan, Your right the CPR /WUR could have died,  but has the car been sitting
because the fuel distributor can also cause the same thing if it got
varnished up. Make sure the connections and the voltage is being applied to
the connection.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

.

-----Original Message-----
From: dukeofclassiccars [mailto:deloreandan_at_dml_usa.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 12:08 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Too much fuel


Ok, I'm getting way too much fuel.  More than usual because I can
smell it really bad.  There are no leaks in the fuel lines.  O2
Sensor is working, frequency valve is working.  I actually have to
disconnect the cold start valve to get her started.  I'm thinking
that my fuel control pressure regulator died on me.  Does anyone have
any other suggestions that I should be looking at before I spend the
money on a new regulator?



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 09:12:49 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: brakes

Andy,
If your pedal is all the way to the floor and the reservoir is full then I
would think the master cylinder is bad.
If your holding pedal and no fluid is coming out as you apply pressure then
the line or caliper is stopped. You might try taking the line loose and
blowing air thru it. It's going to be a messy job.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: andy [mailto:andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 7:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] brakes


I tried to bleed my brakes per the instructions, problem is this I
get no fluid out of the right rear lines(only one I have tried). I
have a pedal that is all the way on the floor no brakes at all. I
have my better half hold the pedal down while i opened the valve but
no fluid in fact did this quite a few times but still no fluid. I
removed the plug just in case it was stopped up still no fluid. 



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 10:54:56 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: PF show... one more thing...

Hhhmmm..... Maybe some people got you confused with me... a few people were
calling me "baster"... ;)

---Dan




Message: 10
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 19:57:26 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: PF show... one more thing...

yea..i also have one complaint.....i had the same problem with
names.....no one could spell my name right....it is baxter....not
baster.....no big deal tough!:)

john
hawaii
#5458



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 09:51:57 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: wiring problem

Steve, I have a standard shift car that the R/B harness your talking about
is connecting to another cable coming from behind the lower intake manifold.
There is a black rubber sheath over a black wire and it's a black ground
wire and 2 black/blue wires. I haven't been able to track where the wires
go.
My automatic car doesn't have it.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: ablemanse [mailto:s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 11:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] wiring problem


List,

     I had to rewire my D due to a burned harness. I am having trouble
finding a place to plug in a 2 prong male plug with a black wire and a
red one. The old harness was too far gone to ID anything. This 6 inch
2-wire pig-tail branches out of the harness at the ballest resistors,
therefore it should plug in some where near the resistors, but I can't
find the mate to it. My Fluke meter tells me that it is a 1 mirco
fared capactor. Can anyone help?

Steve



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 15:39:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: brakes

Crack the lines loose on the master cylinder and bleed it first. Once
you know for sure the master cylinder is good and is bled move on to
the front left wheel first. Next do the front right. Make sure you do
not take too much fluid out without checking that the master cylinder
has plenty in it or you will have to start all over. Finish up with
the rear wheels doing the rear left and then the rear right. As long
as you are working on the brakes check and lubricate the emergency
brake. I remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder
BEFORE I start so I don't push the old, dirty stuff through it. Use
fresh Castrol DOT 4 GTLMA. Do the clutch too if a 5-speed. You are
supposed to flush the brakes and clutch every 2 years as per the manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I tried to bleed my brakes per the instructions, problem is this I 
> get no fluid out of the right rear lines(only one I have tried). I 
> have a pedal that is all the way on the floor no brakes at all. I 
> have my better half hold the pedal down while i opened the valve but 
> no fluid in fact did this quite a few times but still no fluid. I 
> removed the plug just in case it was stopped up still no fluid. The 
> Reservoir is full of fluid, hey guys where do I go from here?




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 11:12:19 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: wiring problem

Steve, After consulting with another DML member and the wiring diagram, the
mating harness is part of the vacuum solenoid and the microswitch. One of
the colors on the diagram was left off.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: ablemanse [mailto:s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 11:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] wiring problem


List,

     I had to rewire my D due to a burned harness. I am having trouble
finding a place to plug in a 2 prong male plug with a black wire and a
red one. The old harness was too far gone to ID anything. This 6 inch
2-wire pig-tail branches out of the harness at the ballest resistors,
therefore it should plug in some where near the resistors, but I can't
find the mate to it. My Fluke meter tells me that it is a 1 mirco
fared capactor. Can anyone help?

Steve



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 12:01:23 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: brakes

When your better half has the pedal down to the floor you must close the
valve BEFORE she releases the pedal. Having the valve open when the pedal is
coming back up just sucks air back in the cylinder. Try that.

Also, is it possible your master cylinder went dry at some time, you may
have to prime the master cylinder first.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 9:26 AM
Subject: [DML] brakes


> I tried to bleed my brakes per the instructions, problem is this I
> get no fluid out of the right rear lines(only one I have tried). I
> have a pedal that is all the way on the floor no brakes at all. I
> have my better half hold the pedal down while i opened the valve but
> no fluid in fact did this quite a few times but still no fluid. I
> removed the plug just in case it was stopped up still no fluid. The
> Reservoir is full of fluid, hey guys where do I go from here?





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