From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2111
Date: Friday, July 09, 2004 5:12 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Project Delorean Site Updated!
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. British car show Carthage, MO July 23-25
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Project Delorean - Why Type S ?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Condensation Blues
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. RE: Gold Delorean in Snyder, Texas
From: "andydmc12" <grewgrew_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. David Toscano - still on the list?
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

7. Car Show July 4th Pasadena Texas 2004
From: "Frank" <delorean_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: One way to get money to buy a Delorean.
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

9. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

10. Help--Lost all Brakelights!
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Delorian in NH in need of some TLC
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Vacuuming A/C
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Vandalism to my D
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Project Delorean - Why Type S ?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. RE: Vandalism to my D
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. RE: Re: Delorean in NH in need of some TLC
From: "Michael M" <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>

19. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

20. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

21. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

22. Re: Vacuuming A/C
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

23. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

24. Re: Project Delorean - Why Type S ?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Delorean for auction in Australia
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 08:00:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Project Delorean Site Updated!

Hi Rick, thanks for the compliments.  (Great to meet
you in PF also.) My theory on the "hacking" issue was
that since the car was so badly neglected it would
have never seen the road again and since it was
painted, it wouldn't have even made a good parts car. 
  That in mind, there wasn't much I could do to it to
hurt its future.  So I guess my goal was to take a car
that had no future and turn it into the Delorean
future that never was.  ; )

Steve

--- twinenginedmc12
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com> wrote:
> Hi Steve.
> It was nice to meet you at Pigeon Forge, and to see
> you car pictures.
> I've been regularly looking at your site, eagerly
> awaiting your update, and enjoyed your thorough coverage a lot. 
> It's shaping up to be a beautiful and unique car.



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 15:07:16 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: British car show Carthage, MO July 23-25

A British car show (yes, I know we are technically Northern Irish) is 
being held in Carthage, MO July 23-25. The actual show is the 24th, 
the fun owner activities are before and after (you know the drill).

I plan on showing and would really love to have some company out 
there since 2 DMC's are better than one. Please contact me off the 
list at wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com if you are interested.

It sounds like lots of fun and would be a good opportunity to get 
some of the owners around the Southern MO, Oklahoma, Arkansas 
together. Something that is seriously lacking in my neck of the woods.

Info on the show can be found at www.gobmc.org

Thank you for your time,
Cain Grimes
002835




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 08:28:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Project Delorean - Why Type S ?

FWIW, IMHO..  Calling your car Type S is confusing.  

There was a prime example of the REAL Type-S in Pigeon
Forge, in the form of Vin 502.

You have a unique project, which deserves respect and
exclusive recognition.  I would think you could come
up with a unique name for it.

Marc


--- Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Thanks,
> 
> =====
> Steve
> 
<SNIP>



	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 08:49:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Condensation Blues

Yeah, Patrick, that was originally my thought too.  The guys don't seem to really mind, but it's amazing how a female will squirm when ice cold water hits her feet!
 
On second thought, maybe this problem isn't so bad...
 
;-)
 
 
Jake
(by the way, the vedors sell strips of insulation, similar to what I bought from Lowe's)
 


PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
My car has the condensation on the sides of the box as well. I don't have 
the insulation since I have VIN 1880, but it really doesn't bother me since it 
doesn't flood the floor or anything, and it doesn't drip on my feet. :) I 
would assume that the vendors sell the insulation that glues on the sides.

Patrick
1880


[

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 16:22:02 -0000
From: "andydmc12" <grewgrew_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Gold Delorean in Snyder, Texas

Hi all this is my first post, i have been very busy so have not had 
time to do so previously, I contacted the vice president of snyder 
bank who i met whilst on my state side visit, here is what happened 
to the car:


The car has been moved to Peterson Automotive Museum in Beverly 
Hills,
California. The museum is west of downtown Los Angeles on Fairfax 
Blvd,
North of the 10 Freeway. As far as I know, the car is still for sale.
They moved it to the museum for more exposure to those able to buy a 
car
like that. The owners live in the Dallas, Texas area. We plan to use 
the
extra space for future expansion.

Just thought you would all like to know!

All the best

Andy Westerman
DOC 12

UK





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 11:43:58 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: David Toscano - still on the list?

Please give me a call or drop me a line if you are!

James

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.716 / Virus Database: 472 - Release Date: 7/5/2004




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 18:59:47 -0000
From: "Frank" <delorean_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Car Show July 4th Pasadena Texas 2004

I mentioned this car show a couple times on this site. No Deloreans 
at the show, but would like to share the photos. 
Frank

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=1qrwj9j.77exjg2f&x=0&y=-qz7bxy 





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 20:10:37 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: One way to get money to buy a Delorean.

WHAT?!?! You are paying 18% interest?! 

Seriously, go out and get yourself a good credit card with a low
interest rate and transfer that balance. Assuming you have good credit
you should have no problems finding a card with a 7.9% fixed rate.
Check Blue from American Express. High credit limits and low fixed
interest rates.

MBNA themselves offer cards fixed at 5.9%. I get offers in the mail
from them constantly. 

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, KiwiDean_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Some folk have asked me how I managed to buy a Delorean.  I had tried  
> financing through several companies, but it was no-go (mainly due to
the age of  the car).  I went through MBNA, who established me a $15,000 line of
credit  account.  With that, I managed to buy a Delorean with clear title,
and even though the interest rate was on the face of it high (18%)



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 20:38:13 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of

I fixed my problem a little bit.
     Once I turned the car on, my regular brakelights functioned again, 
however they do not when the car is off.   Before the smoking 3rd brakelight 
incident, the brakelights would come on regardless of if the car was on or off.

Any ideas here to fix this?
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 19:46:39 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Help--Lost all Brakelights!

Hey there,
     In an attempt to install the JC Whitney 3rd brakelight LED for safety, I 
managed to screw everything up.   I had the third brakelight working and 
mounted, but it wasn't lined up flush with the other 3rd Brakelight LED next to 
it.   So after putting a broomstick on the brake pedal and the other end pushed 
on the seat, I could test how they looked illuminated while I adjusted them.   
Eventually the broom stick fell off, and I had to put it on again---but this 
time I had NO brakelights.   I checked the fuses, all were good.   I got in 
and started pressing on the brake.   I could look over and see the LEDs still 
were not lit, except they were smoking!   I said to myself "holy $*%&!" as I ran 
over and quickly made sure there wasn't a fire.   With that I ripped out my 
whole 3rd brakelight installation, and took out the tailight that the + wire 
was hooked into.   The wiring looked fine.   I still disconnected the third 
brake light and went back to stock setup.   I went back to check the fuses, and 
this time the 20 AMP tailight fuse was blown.   I replaced it, yet my taillights 
will still not work.   I have checked the wiring near the fuse box and behind 
the tailights, and it looks good, no melts or burns.   Does anyone have any 
idea how to get my tailights to work again?   I checked the switch that the 
brake pedal depresses, and wired the two wires directly together to see if the 
lights came on.   Its a no go.   The turn signals work still, but not the brake 
lights.
 
Any ideas???
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 00:37:34 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Delorian in NH in need of some TLC

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mark_gashi" <mark.gashi_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a repair shop in New Hampshire?
I take my car to Nashua Foreign Auto off of Route 3 in Nashua if I 
can't/don't want to fix it myself.
Mike




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 15:46:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Vacuuming A/C

Tried to reply to Harold McElraft's post (Message #42966), but either
Yahoo lost it or the moderator disallowed it. Will try again:

When I vacuum an A/C system, it does not have standing water in it.
Moisture is already vaporized. Remember: I just flushed with outside
air. All I need to do is evacuate the atmosphere just forced in.

Underhood temperature (Lincolns) is well above 100+ degrees, which
lowers the boiling vacuum of water closer to 17 inches anyway. Don't
know exactly how hot, but wrenches left on top of the air filter for
20 minutes can't be held in your bare hand. You could emulate the same
on DeLo's spread out system with a heat gun -- Marc Levy does that.

Of course a stand alone vacuum pump is preferrable to engine vacuum.
But they also cost more than $300. Until I eventually buy one, will
suck outside air out with the engine as I have been doing for years.

Bill Robertson
#5939










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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 21:12:57 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Vandalism to my D



As I walked out from the bar last night I noticed some glass on the ground by 
my DeLorean.  At first I thought somebody had broken a bottle on the ground 
next to it, then I looked up and noticed that my drivers window was smashed in. 
 What a lovely surprise.  Thankfully either the thug was scared off, or he 
was just too stupid to figure out how to unlock the door, because nothing else 
was damaged, in fact the door was still locked when I discovered it.

Has anyone else ever had their DeLorean vandalized?  I can't help but think 
that it was just some dumb jerk that wanted to ruin my day.  Thankfully it 
didn't rain during the drive home.

Andrew
4194


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 02:22:01 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of

My guess is that you connected the wrong wires from the 3rd light that
made the brake lights short out. Believe it or not LEDs do have a
positive side and a negative side, if they are hooked up wrong they
will burn out in a matter of seconds/minutes-it really depends on
certain things. I never knew this and ruined a lot of LEDs a few years
ago, now I know. Recheck you wires, check out your bulbs, and also
test the 3rd light on a car battery to see whats going on. Also check
out the rear harness that connectes the rear lights to the rest of the
system, the plug is black and located next to the coil. Perhaps
something melted or is dirty, etc. Hope this maybe helps -Dani B.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I fixed my problem a little bit.
>      Once I turned the car on, my regular brakelights functioned
again, 
> however they do not when the car is off.   Before the smoking 3rd
brakelight 
> incident, the brakelights would come on regardless of if the car was
on or off.
> 
> Any ideas here to fix this?
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 02:33:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!

Go to the fuse block and pull fuse #18. It is the one all the way on
the bottom right side. Check for power there. It is possible one of
the connectors slide back and is not making contact with the fuse. If
you have power there go to the brake switch. You should have power on
one side of it if you got power in and out of the fuse. If you don't
you have a wiring problem. If you do, then use a paper clip and short
the 2 wires together at the switch. You should have power on the brake
lights. Use the tester, maybe you blew the bulbs out? It is a very
simple circuit, the power goes through the fuse to the switch and then
on to the bulbs. Don't forget to check that the ground is still good
at the connector for the taillights. You could have all the power at
the bulbs but they won't light if the ground is not there. Next time
when you try to hook up the 3rd brake light use a fuse. Sometimes you
must check a fuse electrically. It could look good but it could still
be blown.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey there,
>      In an attempt to install the JC Whitney 3rd brakelight LED for
safety, I 
> managed to screw everything up.   I had the third brakelight working
and 





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 02:13:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Project Delorean - Why Type S ?

I'm guessing it's a play on one of his names.

If so, Steve has an interesting alternative in his first and last
names together: SS. May be able to work them into an automotive
moniker that plays on the DeLorean "Stainless Steel" image.

Perhaps creative List members could suggest other model designations.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> FWIW, IMHO..  Calling your car Type S is confusing.  
> 
> There was a prime example of the REAL Type-S in Pigeon
> Forge, in the form of Vin 502.
> 
> You have a unique project, which deserves respect and
> exclusive recognition.  I would think you could come
> up with a unique name for it.
> 
> Marc
> 





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2004 23:05:09 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Vandalism to my D

Wow bro, that really sucks and I feel for you.
This bugs me because any thief would do the same thing.
There is no way to use a "slim jim", and no real way to get in other than 
smashing the window
and chances are they would never figure out how to get in after that.

I have mentioned here on the list about how my car was fingered to death at 
the
Huey Lewis concert, and I love to take the car to downtown Dallas at go bar 
hopping
but I have to keep a constant eye on my car.

First they step close and touch some part of the car to see if it is "real".
Then they knock on the fender to hear the "tone" of the metal.
Next thing you know they are sitting on the hood or fender getting
thier picture taken with some ones crappy cell phone!
One a-hole actually opened my door, got it and posed for the picture.
I was THIS CLOSE to shoving my Berreta up his XXX.

So today I visited with my buddies at "Crank It Up" car audio here in Fort 
Worth
about the ultimate alarm.
The one I am looking at will be about $600 or so when I am done.
It will have what was described as "microwave" zones.
If you get too close or look inside it will "chirp".
If the inside pressure is changed such as opening the door or breaking the 
glass
the alarm will blare.
Hopefully the "chirping" will let them know that there is an alarm and they 
will
think twice about doing it.
The alarm will also send you a page to your remote control to let you know
what is going on.
The two way paging system will let you start the car, lock unlock, etc....
It will confirm each function and can even be set with a timer to do some of 
these
functions automaticly.

I am not sure who makes this kit, but it doesn't matter because any major 
car shop can
install these.
If you have a daily driver, a REAL alarm like this essential for our cars.
You need to have an early warning system to let the perp know to leave the
car alone when they hear the chirp warnings.

I will be installing this soon.
I hope you will too.
- Videobob
VIN#5278




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 23:18:32 -0400
From: "Michael M" <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean in NH in need of some TLC

Cool, are what all can then work on with the car?

Mike

-----Original Message-----

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mark_gashi" <mark.gashi_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a repair shop in New Hampshire?
I take my car to Nashua Foreign Auto off of Route 3 in Nashua if I 
can't/don't want to fix it myself.
Mike




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 05:40:35 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

Both.  I bought White BA7s LEDs for the four general illumination, and
I bought red ones for the "Lock Doors" and defrost lights.  I also put
a white one in my auto gear shifter.  I'll probably put a regular bulb
back into the gear shifter, as the lighting is visibly unbalanced
there.

I've added a couple of photos to the 2894 folder, although the quality
of photos is really poor, they may give you an idea of the look.

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Which ones are the BA7s - are these the four bulbs that illuminate
the
> AC panel, or the three that illuminate "fan fail", etc?



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 05:52:03 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

They're all BA7s bulbs.  I suggest 2 reds and 4 whites for the AC
panel.  I also used one more white LED in my auto gear shifter (early
version shifter; it uses the same type bulb)

Here's a good How-To on replacing these bulbs:
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/centerlights.html

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the source for the LEDs. Are all the AC panel bulbs Ba7s
and how many are needed? Can you give directions for installing them? 
> Thanks, Rod
> 
> 
> gzapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Also, AutoLumination (http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm) now
> carries BA7s bulbs, which is where I obtained mine.
> 
> --Greg




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 12:26:13 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights! Fixed, sort of

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I fixed my problem a little bit.
>      Once I turned the car on, my regular brakelights functioned 
again, 
> however they do not when the car is off.   Before the smoking 3rd 
brakelight 
> incident, the brakelights would come on regardless of if the car 
was on or off.
> 
> Any ideas here to fix this?
> Patrick
> 1880

Hi Patrick.

The Delorean rear harness is not particularly good.  The wiring and 
connectors tend to corrode, and lose some of the conductivity over 
the years.  I suspect one of two things in your car: 

1. (more likely) that you've heated the wiring during your short 
circuit to the point that the resistance is too high to properly 
light up your lights when the car is off.

If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance from the 
fuse to the taillight.  It should be really low.  Connectors are a 
suspect place to look for excessive resistance. Unplugging them and 
plugging them back in a few times can sometimes improve the 
connection.  Using dielectric grease on connectors is a good idea.  
It slows corrosion. 

2. (less likely) that a lingering partial short between the brake 
light wire and the frame draws down just enough voltage so that the 
lights don't light.

measure the resistance between the brake light wiring and the frame.  
It should be infinite.

Just for kicks, you might measure the voltage at the brake lamp 
itself, with the car off, and the brake pedal down.  I suspect you'll 
find that the voltage is low.  How much lower than battery voltage is 
it?  The lower it is, the worse your problem.  Incidentally, if you 
see good voltage there, I'm wrong about what I think is wrong with 
your wiring, and it's something else.


Rick Gendreau
11472








> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 05:52:33 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuuming A/C


> Of course a stand alone vacuum pump is preferrable to engine vacuum.
> But they also cost more than $300. Until I eventually buy one, will
> suck outside air out with the engine as I have been doing for years.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

Not all pumps cost $300+ I just bought this 1.5cfm electric pump from 
ackits.com it was $181 and works fantastic.

http://store.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?
Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=90061




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 07:40:22 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

Bill Miller has had his DeLorean vandalized twice.  They were after the 
radio, the first time,  The second time it was just meanness.  They 
slashed his tires both times.!






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2004 05:42:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Project Delorean - Why Type S ?

Hi Marc.  No confusion was intended.  My site makes
the background and intent of my project very clear; to
make the Delorean that never was. As for the "Type S"
label, I've been a member of this list for at least 5
year now, and I NEVER recall hearing the phrase "Type
S" on here (or anywhere else related to the Delorean),
but EVERYONE knows about "the Legend Turbo car". 
Anyhoo, the "Type S" seemed the logical choice and the
badge the car would have most likely worn (had it been
made) so that's what I went with. Also, with the name
Steve Stankiewicz, the "S" also has personal value and
designates this car's designer/builder.

Steve

--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> FWIW, IMHO..  Calling your car Type S is confusing. 
> There was a prime example of the REAL Type-S in
> Pigeon Forge, in the form of Vin 502.
> 
> You have a unique project, which deserves respect
> and exclusive recognition.  I would think you could come
> up with a unique name for it.
> 
> Marc



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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2004 13:50:27 -0000
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: Delorean for auction in Australia

BTTF.com was given the following information regarding a DeLorean 
used two years ago in Universal Australia's "Back to the Future" DVD 
promotion, which is being auctioned off this weekend in Melbourne.

Stephen Clark,
BTTF.com

--------------

Sunday, July 18th, 2004 - Melbourne, Australia

DMC-12 Delorean for auction. Car is lefthand drive with California 
OUTATIME prop plates and the barcode plate, car used for BTTF DVD 
promotions.

See http://www.mrpinball.com.au/ for more details.

Wayne Gillard
Mr. Pinball Australia Pty, Ltd.
sales (at) mrpinball.com.au
http://www.mrpinball.com.au/
Tel: +61 3 9579 0466
Fax: +61 3 9579 0422

--------------





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