From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2113
Date: Sunday, July 11, 2004 3:57 PM

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Pontoon for sale
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

2. Pontoon for sale.....
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

3. Re: dash cracks
From: Bob Brandys <>

4. Re: dash cracks
From: "Joseph Molino" <>

5. RE: Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "Murray Fisher" <>

6. Re: Steering wheel shake
From: "Dave Sontos" <>

7. Re: dash cracks

8. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  Fixed, sort of
From: "lakelanier20" <>

9. Re: Window came off the track
From: "ksgrimsr" <>

10. Re: RHD pedal box?
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

11. Re: Continued: Vacuuming A/C
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

12. Re: Bearing and fuel update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

13. RE: Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "Video Bob" <>

14. My results with L.E.D.s
From: Holler <>

15. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

16. re: DeLorean in NH in need.....
From: " Toscano" <>

17. Breaking Angle Drive for Speedo
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

18. New Owner Questions
From: "lluucckkmmaann" <>

19. Fan Clip Help
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <>

20. Re: Window came off the track
From: Marcel Bourgon <>

21. Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "Joshua Weader" <>

22. Re: dash cracks
From: "Matt" <>

23. Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: "Matt" <>

24. Re: Bearing and fuel update
From: "B BENSON" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 21:33:47 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Pontoon for sale

I have a damaged pontoon for sale.  The damage was done to the front 
passenger side.  I have the pieces to the front.  The pontoon comes 
with a perfect condition rear window, and a front fascia that has a 
cut in it near the bottom.  I posted pics of everything included 
into the PHOTOS section.  I just want this thing out of here, so 
first come gets it, but they must pick it up right away. Make me an 



Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 21:57:57 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Pontoon for sale.....

I forgot to mention that the pontoon is located in Holland, 
Michigan.  And that I am open to any price.



Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 08:39:37 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: dash cracks


Don't use silicone. It will stop paint adherence and really mess up the 

JC Whitney sells vinyl repair kits.  I have used these for years and 
they work fairly well.



Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 09:30:03 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <>
Subject: Re: dash cracks

I simply filled in the cracks and let a car seat guy put a thin layer of
black leather over the whole dash.  It neatly tucks in under the knee pads
and binnacle and defrost vents.  I just hated the idea of taking out the
dash. It wasn't the money.  Anyway, not many people can tell.  The leather
is exactly the same as the knee pads and he made it so smooth that it looks
molded like the dash. Normally I don't "go around" the problem like that.  I
usually fix it from the start but  I like the way the leather looks also.
Also do your glove box cover.
just my 2 cents.

Joseph Molino
vin 2850

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy" <>
Subject: [DML] dash cracks

> old #3513 has two cracks in the dash (flat part next to the window)
> that runs from the windshield to the edge of the dash.


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 06:49:43 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Vandalism to my D

Vandalism story FWIW.   A couple years ago, I came out from the supermarket
to their parking lot and noticed some people around a car.  The alarm was
going off......the "owner", a nicely dressed man in a white shirt and tie
and business suit, was trying to get into his car with a jimmy bar while
sympathetic onlookers were trying to advise and help.....  I came up and ask
him why he was trying to break into MY CAR!!   (it was a new Lincoln
Continental).  Everyone was so startled, he just walked  SWIFTLY away and
disappeared!     Then there was the alarm on my motorhome....visitors drop
by and stand on your extended entrance step......the alarm goes off
everytime from the motion sensor and it could not be adjusted enough to
avoid that.  I soon disabled it!
VIN: 05962


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 11:02:53 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel shake

Tire balance is the main culprit here. Both front and/or rear tires out of
balance will make the steering wheel shake. Make sure you have all four
rebalanced before investing anymore money in parts.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dani B" <>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Bearing and fuel update

 The only thing is the steering wheel still vibrates at 55/60 MPH, it feels
the same as
> warped rotors would while braking. I believe it is just an alignment
> that will cure this, it can't think of anything else it could be,
> everythings new.

Dani B, VIN5003


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 14:09:35 +0000
Subject: Re: dash cracks

Andy - cosmetic repairs depend on two things:  What you 
want when you are done, and how much you have to spend.
The best way to repair your dash pad is to remove it
and send it to Just Dashes.  They will remove the old
vinyl and replace it with new that will match in color
and grain.  This will be expensive - figure around

Another alternative is to fill the cracks and
redye the area.  You can do this yourself or use the
same travelling interior repair guys the dealerships use
to detail used cars before they go on the lot.  Just
ask at any local dealership.  It's usually the same guy
that does work for all of the local dealers.  They have
the proper materials to fill the cracks and color match
the area around the patch.  Depending on the time involved, 
this is probably less than $100.  Note that you will be
able to see the repair and the cracks will come back.

A third option is to buy a patch kit yourself and give 
it a whack.  You will need an airbrush to apply the 
dye and a good eye for mixing dyes to get the color to 
match.  This repair will be most evident and the least


-------------- Original message from "andy" : -------------- 
> old #3513 has two cracks in the dash (flat part next to the window) 
> that runs from the windshield to the edge of the dash. I am sure 
> someone out there has had this problem


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 15:51:23 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <>
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  Fixed, sort of

    I have two of those JC Whitney "wing-eye" third brake lights 
sitting on my desk, waiting to be installed in my car when I get it 
in the next couple weeks.  They are this model:

Did you get the same ones?

I have looked them over of course, and noticed that the "wire 
distribution diargram" on the back of the package is a joke and next 
to useless as instructions.  You say they only work when wired one 
way?  Because it's hard to tell which wire is + and which is -, since 
one is black, and the other is black with grey dashes.  I don't think 
they are a bad looking unit, but have you determined what caused the 
smoking when you installed them on your car?  Was it the JC Whitney 
lights themselves that caused the problem?



Message: 9
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 15:52:48 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <>
Subject: Re: Window came off the track

--- In, Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> My passenger side toll booth window has come off it's track. 

I had the smae issue on one of my cars a while back. In my case the 
problem stemmed from the stop having slid down the lift motor tube 
assembly thereby allowing the window to travel too far down and 
causing the front guide to travel off the end of the track. If you 
have a parts manual, the stop is visible in section 3.6.5 and is the 
un-numbered part that looks like a clamp partway down on the lift 
motor tube.

There are two steps to the repair -- getting the window back on 
track and fixing the stop so it doesn't hapen again. I used a couple 
shortcuts that made this pretty easy. Start by removing the upper 
door panel (there are instructions for doing this in a lot of the 
various places). Whenever working in the door, I usually take the 
precaution of using some black electrical tape to tape up the metal 
edges around the area I'm working. The edges can be pretty sharp and 
I have cut myself on them before. Putting black electrical tape over 
the exposed edges can save you some pain and blood later.

To get the window on track, all I had to do was remove the front 
door marker light and run the window down to the bottom. Through the 
front door marker light hole you can see the end of the track and 
the plastic window guide. Using a long instrument, I was able to 
guide the window back on its track. To make this a little easier, I 
did loosen the screws securing the track slightly in order to give 
me a little play to more easily line things up. Once you're back on 
the track run the window back up, secure the track screws if you had 
to loosen them and pop the marker light back in.

The second part of the fix is to keep the window from traveling too 
far down the track the next time it's operated. For this I took 
another shortcut. Instead of trying to move the existing clamp back 
up the motor tube and securing it more tightly, I used a short piece 
of proper diameter slit rubber hose that I wrapped around the motor 
tube and secured with a suitably sized hose clamp. I tightened this 
rubber stop fairly snugly in a conveniently accessible place and 
then ran the window down while helping it along by pushing it down 
until the top of the window is slightly lower than flush with the 
window sil. The trick is to tighten the clamp such that it's tight 
enought to prevent the window motor from moving it, while still 
being loose enought that with reasonable force you can push it down 
to the place you want it. 

If you're not having too much trouble plundering with getting the 
guide back on track through the marker light hole, the whole thing 
should take no more than 30-45 minutes. Whenever I work in the door 
I usually find the hardest part is getting the upper door panel back 
on properly. Getting all those fir trees to line up in their holes 
and getting the panel to fit cleanly behind the armest control 
panel, etc is a pain.

I hope you find some of my experiences helpful.



Message: 10
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 17:04:06 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: RHD pedal box?

Not all Wooler-Hodec Right-handers have two servos, in fact only the 
autos and one manual had them. The brake servo cannot go in the original 
location when put on the right - they were put on the end of a 
connecting rod just behind the radiator. Check out

The twin servo type had the brake master mounted directly to the pedal 
linkage (which is bespoke too) and the reason for twin servos is that 
when used as a remote system, you have a single point of failure, so 
there's one for the front and one for the rear - part of UK regulations, 
I believe.All the brake lines were specifically made to fit the chassis 
with the underbody off.

Martin wrote:

>Hi, I am just about to have my existing pedal box heavely modified 
>to suit the rhd conversion, I know the rhd factory cars have 2 
>additional brake servos ( 1 front and 1 rear) when the rhd 
>conversion was done. I was just wondering if anyone can tell me why 
>this was? and what is their purpose. I was planning on having the 
>existing brake lines lenghtened to reach the new positon on the r/h 
>side. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 
>Cheers, Nick 10927


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 16:28:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Continued: Vacuuming A/C

I didn't mean to say you were actually putting a combustable mixture
into your A/C system, I was only giving an example of a device that
when used is inherently unsafe. Just because things are for sale does
not always mean they are safe, even for their intended purpose. Freon
R-12 is one of the "safety" refrigerents. It was supposed to be a safe
replacement for amonia, propane, and butane which were in common use
at the time. R-12 was considered inert at the time. In fact it was
invented by German chemists before WW I as an intermediate step for
what became Phosgene gas, a deadly gas used in WWI. R-12 does not burn
but one of the results of the oxidation of it is very dangerous! Early
on they used to sell an attachment you would put on a Bernzomatic
torch that had a copper "reaction plate" in it. A hose would be used
to find a leak and when the R-12 got to the hot copper plate it would
glow green indicating a leak. It was realized how dangerous this was
and eventually removed from the marketplace. Similar situation with
the old Carbon Tet fire extighuishers. They were great at putting out
fires but the gases created killed many people. 
 I know in some areas of the country it is difficult to find good,
qualified service on many things. That is one of the purposes of this
List, to help people find services, to know what can and should be
done, and how to do it. From my experience you CAN usually find
someone although it may not be nearby and/or convienient, it generally
comes down to a question of dollars. If you intend to do your own work
instead of spending the money on service and shipping you must be
willing to spend it on parts, tools, time, and education. I am
surprised you have so much trouble finding someone to work on your
A/C. It is not all that different from any of the older cars that must
be plentiful in your area. Besides, the tools would be exactly the
same and if you have the manual they should be able to do anything
short of rebuilding the compressor. I encourage people to do their own
work, it is just that you should know your limitations, in terms of
knowledge, tools, time, and money. Since A/C work is done
infrequently, (if done correctly) and the tools are so expensive, it
is best left to "shop it out". I am only trying to leave the
impression on the DML that A/C work is best left to professionals who
have the proper equipment (vacuum pumps, refrigerent recyclers, leak
detectors, gauges and such), like alignment work.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> With all due respect, I am not filling my A/C system with "a
> COMBUSTABLE  mixture of air and GASOLINE". It's a vacuum -- air is
> moving in the other direction.
> Good luck finding a third party to work on vintage A/C in Laurinburg
> NC. If I can't do it for the Lincolns, absolutely guarantee I'll never


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 16:42:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Bearing and fuel update

If you are getting a vibration when braking it has NOTHING to do with
alingment. It COULD be anything from warped, non-parallel rotors to
worn bushings in the suspension. This does not mean you don't need an
aligmnent, it is just that if you do get one it will not, by itself,
fix the vibration. During the course of actually doing an aligment the
mechanic may discover things that will need to be fixed and/or
replaced. I do not consider that "alignment" per se. Generally before
you do an alignment you should inspect for all of these types of
things because if you do an aligment with worn or bad  parts then the
aligment will not last. Vibration can be a hard thing to fix.
Generally the tires are the most common offenders. Check for runnout
and wear. Have them spin balanced. If they are more then 10 years old
don't waste time on them, just replace them for safety's sake. You are
finding out that it takes a lot of money to fix up an old car.
Sometimes the cheap "price of admission", ie the purchase price, fools
you into a lot more than you may have bargained for. There is an old
saying, "In for a Penny, in for a Pound". Recheck your air pressures
too, that has a large effect on tires. The pressures are on the label
on the glove box door.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Today I installed the bearing in the rear hub carrier... The only thing is
> the steering wheel still vibrates at 55/60 MPH, it feels the same as
> warped rotors would while braking. I believe it is just an alignment
> that will cure this,


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 12:34:37 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Vandalism to my D

At home, it is safe under the carport with a video camera on it that plays 
in my office next to my computer and is recorded 24/7.
The only time I need an alarm is when I am out and about.
Unlike a convertable, or any other car, you would not have the doors open at 
a show
unless you were going to be near by.

I will set it to be less sensitive, but I think an early warning system 
might detor a vandle.

With all your false alarms, did any one ever mess with your car?

I would rather have a few false alarms and make sure everyone knows that 
when it goes off
I will be running outside to check on it.
Me and my buddy, Desert Eagle 50.

- VB


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 14:32:32 -0400
From: Holler <>
Subject: My results with L.E.D.s

While at the DCS in Pigeon Forge, I asked Dan Botkin about his brilliant
door lights on his Time Machine.  Although they were blue, he showed me
that they sell them in the standard colors as well.
He sold me a complete door set of the l.e.d. lamps, from the DeLorean
Motor Center table in the vendors room, and they are fantastic.  I
replaced my stock bulbs with them in a minute or two and they work great.

My sockets were 'crispy critters', and the collar on several of them
just turned to dust in my fingers when removing the old bulbs.  Nothing
critical, but in my opinion, every owner should purchase these, if for
no other reason than to prevent your sockets from becoming baked.  The
new l.e.d. lamps illuminate just great.

Note: Not all l.e.d.s are the same.  I cannot comment on other brands or
clusters, etc.  I just know that these work great!

On another side note:  
Some owners disconnect their door lights when at car shows or doing
extended interior repairs and such, because of the drain on the battery,
or the overheating issue, possibly bubbling or warping the lenses, etc.
I would highly recommend every owner swap out your door lights with this
l.e.d. kit.  
It solves a few potential problems.
By practicing the 'disconnect your door lights' method, you are
defeating their whole purpose, which is SAFETY!
Would you disconnect your headlights to prevent eyebrowing, thus,
endangering yourself and others?  Nope.
Just my 2 cents, which are not funded in any way by Delorean Motor
Center. :-)

I try to support all of our wonderful DeLorean dealers equally and thank
them for innovations such at this one, and for hauling them to
gatherings so that we can buy them!
Oliver Holler
#10694 'Time-Car'


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 18:46:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

--- In, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Although I have been lucky and never had anything happen to my Delo
> (knock on wood), I did install a similar paging alarm. I like mine
> with the siren off, most times people don't even pay attention to
> alarms and when they go off-no one even looks usually people just 
> it to shut up. I like mine off because when I get paged I'm ready to
> surprise the person setting it off, and if they are damaging my car
> I'll be ready to kick some a$$.

A pager is really the last thing that I need (I already have 2 cell 
phones, and a pager that I carry in my car). If someone is going to 
vandalise my car, they're gonna do it. And when choosing between 
ruining the mood of a good evening out by the pager going off, or 
waiting till things are over to discover damage (possibly), I'll hold 
off and wait until I get to the car. Even if I encounter the person
(s) doing the damage, that does not guarantee that an ass whopin' is 
going to ensue. I'd rather replace some glass, or bang out a couple 
of dents, rather then get shanked or clubbed by some idiot out in the 
parking lot. Or just as bad, get arrested on assault, & battery 
charges, and the lawsuit against me that WILL follow.

Alot cheaper than an alarm, try doing some proactive precautions when 
parking your car. Don't park your car where it's prone to drunk 
people. The overwhelming majority of people here that have reported 
in vandalism to their cars have had it done by drunks. Out side of 
pubs, bars, college riots, etc.. When going to park your car, put it 
in the most conspicuous place ever, where the most people are. With 
the DeLorean in a line of cars, you'd be surprised at how many people 
don't even realize it's there. Hell, my neighbors parked across from 
me for over a month, and never realized what I had until they saw me 
open the door one day! Plus, people who recognize the car have a 
tendancy not to park close to it. The misconception that our doors 
need more space makes people think that we might hit their cars. 
Hence they tend not to park close.

Most important of all, STOP WORRYING ABOUT YOUR CARS!!!! You can't 
live in constant fear of somthing happening to your car. That is 
going to quickly cancel out any enjoyment that you get from driving 
the car. If the concern about leaving your car in a particular place 
is that overwhelming, then just leave it at home. And if you even 
have the incling to shoot someone because they sat in your car, you 
seriously need to get your priorities adjusted. If you leave your 
doors unlocked, or even open in a public place, then don't expect 
nothing to happen. Especially around inebriated people, who've lost 
their inhibitions/common sense. Even I have had to deal with a 
stranger jumping in my car, and I did threaten him. But there is no 
way on earth that I'm willing to take his, or the life of another 
person simply for sitting in my car. At that point, you obsessing 
with an inanimate object far too much.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 16:42:18 -0700
From: " Toscano" <>
Subject: re: DeLorean in NH in need.....

To the person from NH:
I missed the beginning of the thread....what kind of work do you need done? I had several places I brought my cars here in the Worcester (MA) area, one guy who was a Volvo dealer and did almost everything I needed. Let me know if your needs are not already met.

David Toscano
Worcester, MA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:42:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Breaking Angle Drive for Speedo

I am working on a Delorean now that had a non-functioning speedometer.
In the course of trying different things I noticed sometimes it seemed
difficult to turn the upper speedo cable that goes to the speedometer
head. When I pulled the binnacle I could hear something shaking around
inside. Upon opening up the binnacle and disassembling the speedo head
I found that the gauges are held to the plastic with special clips on
plastic pins. 2 pins had broken and still had the clips attached. One
was the "floater" but the other had gotten caught in the speedometer
mechanism. If you are having a lot of problems keeping the speedometer
going maybe it isn't a problem with the angle drive but these broken
pins and clips getting caught in the speedo head. I was able to glue
things back together for now. A suggestion, while you have the
binnacle out it is a good idea to just go ahead and replace all of the
light bulbs. I also had to reglue the copper traces back onto the film
in the areas where the plugs contact. Clean all the connections up
good, some of these connections are very low current so any resistance
will affect them, like the fuel gauge and the temp gauge. Don't be
tempted to remove any of the needles, they damage very easily and you
really don't have to anyway. Keep track of the placement of all the
nuts and washers, it is important that everything goes back in it's
correct place. BTW the reason one of the clips got caught is that in
the mechanism of the speedometer is a MAGNET! Any metal bouncing
around in the cluster will eventually find it and jam things up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 00:15:27 -0000
From: "lluucckkmmaann" <>
Subject: New Owner Questions

Hi gang,
     I recently purchased a 1981 DeLorean via eBay in May and I'm 
finding it to be a fantastic yet frustrating experience.  I live in 
Newport News, VA. and flew to Columbus, OH. to view the car before 
making a deal for it.  After deciding I would buy it my friend that 
had flown along with me helped drive it back here to Virginia.  I 
must say that it performed quite well for being 23 years old and 
having 85000 miles on the odometer.  Now that I have it in Newport 
News and have started the process of repairing the big things first 
I'm making some discoveries that I did not originally notice-the 
most notable one being the fact that there is some rust damage to 
the frame.  I know that most things can be repaired but this is an 
alarming and potentially very costly problem I will have to deal 
with.  Has anyone had experience with frame repair and can perhaps 
provide me with some tips on what to look for when checking for 
structural stability?  I would have to try and find a shop that 
could perform the work since this is far beyond my limited means as 
a car enthusiast.  On a slightly different note I have some other 
questions to ask the group but 2 of the more simple ones are how do 
you set the console digital clock by the gearshift(I can't believe 
it has stumped me!) and what is the best way to clean the stainless 
steel?  I'm planning on ordering one of the kits from DMC in Houston 
but I was also wondering if there were other suggestions for making 
it shine.  I've enjoyed reading the posts here immensely and look 
forward to your comments concerning my questions.
Thanks a bunch!
M. Luckey


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:51:20 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <>
Subject: Fan Clip Help

Does anyone know where I can get the clip and roll pin that holds on the cooling fan blades? I lost one of mine on the way home from Pigeon Forge.
I thought no problem, Houston has them listed as available, I'll order a couple for spares. After I ordered them online I received a note back with the rest of my order shipment saying neither was available any longer from them.
Trips to the very poor local auto stores here in Jacksonville were fruitless. I have a box of roll pins myself but this must be a metric one?

Although I am not overheating with one fan I would feel better with two here in the summer heat of Florida.

Cecil Longwisch

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 08:32:42 -0600
From: Marcel Bourgon <>
Subject: Re: Window came off the track

kevin creason wrote:

>You have to take it off in order to put it back on
>Here's how to keep it from happening again (and
>removal instructions).

Thanks for your informative way of fixing a problem we have all experienced
Marcel in El Paso


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 11:59:34 -0500
From: "Joshua Weader" <>
Subject: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

In the process of removing the clutch slave cylinder to replace it, the rigid
clutch fluid line that connects to the slave snapped.  (PM section 4.4.1,
number 6, if you want the picture.)  Before I go ahead and replace it with an
identical line, I wanted to know if it was possible to replace it with a more
flexible one, like the braided SS line.  My main concern is whether or not the
rigid line is required to keep it up and away from the transmission.  If
anyone has replaced this part of the clutch line with something other than the
thin rigid line, I'd love to hear how it worked out.




Message: 22
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 16:38:14 -0000
From: "Matt" <>
Subject: Re: dash cracks

If anyone is interested, I pulled my dash out, filled the crack with 
epoxy, and then recovered it with matching vinyl.  Cost?  About $12 
for the vinyl and about $5 for some contact cement.  Looks brand new 
except for one thing.  I was not able to do was reproduce the grilled 
speaker sections, but since those speakers suck anyway, I just 
covered right overtop of them.  I'll use kick-pods when I REALLY want 
to listen to music.  I've tried the permatex vinyl repair kits, and 
I've re-dyed vinyl parts, but neither of these are options that will 
really "last."  



Message: 23
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 16:43:00 -0000
From: "Matt" <>
Subject: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

Seems like this topic has come up before but I haven't found anyone 
post an answer.  Which of the marks on the crankshaft pulley is the 
one for cylinder #1?  When I look at my pulley, both of the marks 
seem to be located within the same 180 degree semicircle.  In other 
words, the two marks are not at opposite ends of the pulley.  Could 
someone please describe which one is correct?  I'm trying to set my 
ignition timing.



Message: 24
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 11:51:07 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <>
Subject: Re: Bearing and fuel update

I really don't think alignment is causing this problem. Balance may very
likely be the culprit but you also need to have the tires checked for
runout.  Jack the car up high enough so you see the front wheels just clear
the ground and then spin the wheels while watching the relationship between
the ground and the tire tread. If the tread seems to move up and down as
compared to the ground the tire has a high spot that need correcting. The
DeLorean has a very light front end and any deviation from normal is easily
felt in the steering wheel. I've known several owners who have experience
this, myself included. A good tire shop will have the ability to correct
this. Sometimes just moving the tire around the rim works ( although this
can be time consuming ) or better still, shops with the equipment to true
the tire can shave the high spots to make it round. After 20 plus years of
DeLorean ownership it's become obvious to me that tires and balancing aren't
the place to skimp on cost. Have tire work done at the best shop around you.
It'll save you time and money in the long run.

Bruce Benson

> The only thing is
> the steering wheel still vibrates at 55/60 MPH, it feels >the same as
> warped rotors would while braking. I believe it is just >an alignment
> that will cure this, it can't think of anything else it >could be,
> everythings new.  Dani B, VIN5003


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