From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2114
Date: Monday, July 12, 2004 8:58 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

3. Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

4. RE: My results with L.E.D.s
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  Fixed, sort of
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Bearing and fuel update
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: New Owner Questions
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

14. Re: Fan Clip Help
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

15. Re: De on Ebay
From: randy rabbit <randyrabbit69_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

16. Re: Re: Vandalism to my D
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

17. I need some ammunition
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Third Party A/C Techs
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: Fan Clip Help
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  3rd Brake Light
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

21. Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. I had a great time at DCS '04
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

24. Re: Lambda ECU not connected(was: K-jetronic not connected)
From: Mads de Bruin <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

25. Re: I need some ammunition
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 15:55:43 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

Dani B:

When those "Page Alarm" became popular, the police in the New York City area 
frown them and discourage the owners to confront the vandals or the person 
breaking into their vehicles.   The vandals or the person (perps) that is 
breaking into the vehicle will not hesitate to turn around and become violent; which 
means that you will be "surprise again" if they turn around and face you with 
a weapon in their hand as to retaliate in being caught.   In NYC there have 
been owners who were victims of such events.   They were either beaten up or 
stabbed or shot when they tried to confront the perpetrators.   So do take care 
if you do take actions into your own hands!!!   It may not be worth your life 
or limbs.... Best call the police immediately and let them do their job.   
Hopefully they will get there in time to deal with the situation in apprehending 
the vandals or the perp.

Oh yes Bob (Videobob), they got the "Eagles" and all other "goodies" too and 
they will not hesitate to use them with intentions.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic   9D NY

==========================================================================

In a message dated 7/10/04 9:20:33 AM, 5n-_at_dml_gmx.net writes:


> I like mine
> with the siren off, most times people don't even pay attention to
> alarms and when they go off-no one even looks usually people just want
> it to shut up. I like mine off because when I get paged I'm ready to
> surprise the person setting it off, and if they are damaging my car
> I'll be ready to kick some a$$
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 12:57:17 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

>Plus, people who recognize the car have a 
>tendancy not to park close to it. The misconception that our doors 
>need more space makes people think that we might hit their cars. 
>Hence they tend not to park close.

I don't know about that... It seems to me, whenever I take my car out and need to park it in a public place (like a mall), I park it "way out" in the last few rows of the parking lot - away from all the other cars... and 9 times out of 10, when I come out, some moron has parked right next to me, and usually very close to one side or the other, and usually obscuring the car entirely from view.  This happened twice in Pigeon Forge alone.  

-Hank



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 13:00:36 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

I am in the process of doing the same thing.  Getting at the clutch slave
cylinder is one of the hardest things I have had to do.  It must be my ape
hands.  Me too, the line kept turning with the fitting when I was trying to
remove it and it kinked itself.  I have ordered a new one from PJ Grady but
I still haven't received it.  Over 2 weeks now.  I was inquiring about the
flex line as well.  Let me know

Joseph Molino




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 12:05:34 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: My results with L.E.D.s

As many of you know, I also sell these LED lights.
I sold about 50 sets at the show.
I noticed that the one's that Delorean Motor Center sells are white, (and 
$10 more than mine).
My research has shown that using the white LEDs causes the color to wash out 
a little
and get a hot white spot in the center.
The truth is that it looks very stock since the original bulb does the same 
thing.

This is why I decided to use colored bulbs.
I use the yellow for yellow and red for red.
This gives a deep rich color that is better than the original.
My LED clusters also feature 6 tiny super bright lights and are an exact 
replacment
for the originals and install in seconds.

When Curtis (they guy with a amazing red car) saw them, he bought two sets.
Anyone who has my set on thier car thinks they are fantastic and I have 
never had
a single complaint.

I am out of stock right now, and will have more in about a week or so.
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
>Subject: [DML] My results with L.E.D.s
>
>While at the DCS in Pigeon Forge, I asked Dan Botkin about his brilliant
>door lights on his Time Machine.  Although they were blue, he showed me
>that they sell them in the standard colors as well.
>He sold me a complete door set of the l.e.d. lamps, from the DeLorean
>Motor Center table in the vendors room, and they are fantastic.  I
>replaced my stock bulbs with them in a minute or two and they work great.



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 17:22:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

One mark is TDC Cylinder #1, the other is TDC Cylinder #6. PRV
wierdness (it's a good engine, but definitely has its quirks).

The two marks are 150 degrees apart. Look at the pulley with them
located  2:30 and 9:30 -- TDC #1 is to your right and TDC #6 is to
your left.

If your timing scale hasn't been monkeyed with you should be able to
time the ignition off whichever wire is easiest to access (you may
find that to be #6).

If your timing scale needs to be re-indexed, the PRV does have a nifty
way to do so: on top of the engine are two block plugs. The one
closest to the front (our back) accesses the oil galley. The one
closest to the back accesses a crankshaft counterweight, into which an
8mm indexing hole is pre-drilled. Rotate the engine close to TDC #1
(no more that 20 degrees BTDC) and insert a foot long 5/16" drill bit
through the rear hole. The bit will ride on the counterweight.
Continue rotating the engine until the bit drops into the indexing
hole (8" or so down from the top of the engine). Cylinder #1 is now
TDC, and the timing scale can be positioned accordingly.

Crankshaft pulley is of course keyed, and does not have a harmonic
balancer, so you shouldn't ever need to worry about the timing marks
themselves.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Seems like this topic has come up before but I haven't found anyone 
> post an answer.  Which of the marks on the crankshaft pulley is the 
> one for cylinder #1?  When I look at my pulley, both of the marks 
> seem to be located within the same 180 degree semicircle.  In other 
> words, the two marks are not at opposite ends of the pulley.  Could 
> someone please describe which one is correct?  I'm trying to set my 
> ignition timing.
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 13:43:10 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  Fixed, sort of

Hey there Derek,
     No those are not the LEDs that I purchased.   I got these: 
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/storeId-10101/p-2186/c-10101/catal
ogId-10101

I am sure they are made by the same company.   And yes, the back of the 
package was a joke.   Mine did only light when wired one way...but apparently they 
screwed something up at the factory.   The lights would only work when the - 
wire was attached to the + terminal, and the + wire to ground.   I assume they 
accidentally connected the wrong wires to the wrong spots at the sweatshop 
where they must have been built.   They are very cheap lights, very shoddy 
feeling, and its not worth damaging your DeLorean with them.   To be fair, Shannon 
Yocom has them on his car and they work fine for him.   If I were to put a 3rd 
brakelight on, which I will not ever do now, I would add on one of the third 
brakelights on the top louvre like people had at PF.   Apparently instead of 
paying $150+ for them from a D vendor, you can get the same IDENTICAL light for 
$40 at the Chevrolet dealership.   It's off of an '86 Corvette (they should 
bring up a picture of it on their computer).   Just don't tell them its for your 
DeLorean.

Good luck, I wouldn't risk putting those LEDs on, and if you do, add in a 
separate fuse just in case.
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 19:41:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

I believe one of them shows TDC on #5. Not sure why though. It's easy 
enough just to mark both with white paint, and put the timing light on 
#1 - you'll be in the right ballpark.

However, if you're trying to drop your distributor in, you need to know 
when #1 is at TDC. For this you need to take off the RH rocker cover, 
and take out #1 spark plug. With the aid of a long screwdriver dropped 
down the hole, turn the engine until the piston is at the top of its 
stroke. The valves on #1 should have a small amount of play in them (ie 
they're set for firing stroke). If they're "on the rock", you need to 
rotate the crank by 360 degrees. When your screwdriver looks as if it's 
at the top of its stroke, look at the crankshaft pulley and you'll see 
one of the notches close to 0. Put it at 0, and drop the distributor in 
so the rotor points to the little mark on the casing

Martin



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 18:33:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

Since that line goes directly under the exhaust crossover, I'm not 
sure that you want something flexible waving around under there. I'd 
stick with the hard line. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> In the process of removing the clutch slave cylinder to replace it, 
the rigid
> clutch fluid line that connects to the slave snapped.  (PM section 
4.4.1,
> number 6, if you want the picture.)  Before I go ahead and replace 
it with an
> identical line, I wanted to know if it was possible to replace it 
with a more
> flexible one, like the braided SS line.  




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 19:11:03 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Bearing and fuel update

The vibration isn't due to the brakes, as I said it happens just
driving-no brakes applied-but thanks for the info on that area.
Anyway, I've already spent many thousands on this car-as I did the
frame off resto in December-March replacing 90% of the parts on the
car. By now, all parts on my car, less engine and manual trans; are
new. This is why I'm convinced that its just the tires/alignment, and
many suggest looking there-so I made an apointment for an alignment at
one of the local garages and will also get a spin balance on all 4
tires. The 2 pieces of equipment my shop lacks! I've been restoring
classic cars for a long time, if I've learned anything from it-it is
to just replace the part if it has little wear, because once it's new
chances are you wont have to worry about it for a long time.. Reminds
me-does anyone want to buy a 66 Ford Thunderbird?? :)  Thanks guys
I'll let you know what happens in a few days! Dani B. #5003



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 12:20:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Owner Questions

I would advise you to spend no money on the car until someone capable of giving you an assessment on the frame rust does so. Since you are in VA(as I am also) Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club may be a resource. Contact me off list and I may be able to connect you with folks that may be able to help.  rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com



lluucckkmmaann <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:Hi gang,
I recently purchased a 1981 DeLorean via eBay in May and I'm 
finding it to be a fantastic yet frustrating experience. 



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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 19:23:50 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

Well it's all matter of opinion. If you don't want to worry about your
car then don't install an alarm, while others video tape their cars.
It's all just preference- doesn't mean we're wrong in what we do. I'm
sure no one will mess with a prospective state police officer's
vehicle as well as try to fight me, but I figured I'd install an alarm
anyway due to the amount of vandalism I see. It's not that I'm worried
about my car, I personally just don't want to have to deal with all
the crap that follows-repairs, maybe some paperwork depending on the
damage etc. Dani B. #5003


> 
> A pager is really the last thing that I need (I already have 2 cell 
> phones, and a pager that I carry in my car). If someone is going to 
> vandalise my car, they're gonna do it. 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 15:32:01 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

Bob:

I do believe that a "Slim Jim" will be able to open the DeLorean.   I have 
seen it done by Rob of PJ Grady.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY

==========================================================================

In a message dated 7/9/04 6:13:30 PM, videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> 
> There is no way to use a "slim jim", and no real way to get in other than
> smashing the window
> and chances are they would never figure out how to get in after that.
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 20:13:06 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

Matt,
Going clockwise, the first mark you come to is your TDC or TDCO 
mark. The next is about 115 deg. past the first mark.

Sean




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 21:54:03 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Fan Clip Help

Try your local hardware store.  They should have a good selection
of metric hardware, including roll pins.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Cecil Longwisch" : -------------- 
> Does anyone know where I can get the clip and roll pin that holds on the cooling 
> fan blades? I lost one of mine on the way home from Pigeon Forge. 
> I thought no problem, Houston has them listed as available, I'll order a couple 
> for spares. After I ordered them online I received a note back with the rest of 
> my order shipment saying neither was available any longer from them. 



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 23:39:39 +0100 (BST)
From: randy rabbit <randyrabbit69_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: De on Ebay

Hi people,
Does anyone on list know any info on the delorean on Ebay from pennsylvania? it's black, manual, chassis ending 003914, or would any1 maybe be willing to drop by and give it the once over?
Any and all help appreciated,
 
Keith Allen
DOC#207
keithtyper_at_dml_aol.com



		
---------------------------------
 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - sooooo many all-new ways to express yourself 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 17:44:17 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Vandalism to my D

I had one of these Dual zone perimeter protection alarms on one of my 
cars, the kind where you get close to it it chirps and if you stuck 
your hand through the window the car alarm went off. The biggest 
problem was temperature change, the hotter it got the bigger the area 
it protected and when it got cold the area it protected shrunk so small 
you actually had to almost put your hand on the glass to activate the 
chirp. This really didnt matter too much because the car got stored for 
the winter months, notice i did say it didnt matter too much.

The worst part was when people would walk past the car on a really hot 
day and activate the chirp, they were not even close to the car 
sometimes. And dont even park near a tree with low branches because 
this also set it off. It was a continuous battle getting the perimeter 
protection fine tuned. Also you couldnt leave the car packed with 
anything because this interfered with the protection.

I just posted this so others can know the downfall of this type of 
protection.


Mark V



On Friday, July 9, 2004, at 08:02  PM, wayofcain wrote:

> Just a word of warning about those "Microwave" zone alarms. I just
> tore mine out of my 64 Fairlane. It was a dual zone. I thought it
> would be perfect



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 00:27:59 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: I need some ammunition

As many a young people, I have been lerking on the list, occasionaly 
posting, even once or twice very serious in attempts to purchase 
cars, but now I have severly run into a snag that I knew was 
coming... just hoped and prayed it would be swept under the rug.

Today I was looking at a Pontiac Fiero.  In the deep woods of Maine, 
its hard to find any cars other than the run of the mill fords or 
hondas.  My dad was in utter discust about the 2 seater and the whole 
concept, and here I was pretty darn estatic to see such a rare 
car "for the area."  

I have bugged his ear off about the DeLorean now for more than 10 
years, and I recently reached the $15 k mark in my savings.  Is there 
any thing I can say to my father that would make it easier for him to 
accept that I want a 'small sports car' (or even that I own 
one..soon).  He just doesnt get it through his head that these things 
are fun, yeah a little more work than a Honda, and yes, parts may be 
a little harder to find, but its all about image.  My grandma refers 
to the DeLorean as an old peice of crap... why dont you get a new car 
Tom?  I have yet to test drive any "new" car off the lot that was fun 
to drive.  Really the 80's sports cars are the best, and the DMC in 
my oppion is at the top of that heep.

Also, if you own a 84-86 Fiero and you have a few minutes, could you 
email me about problem areas... this one I found is dirt cheap.

Thanks

Tom Porter
Way up in Northern Maine
Vin: Hopefully by end of year.




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 01:41:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Third Party A/C Techs

Even if I could find a third party A/C tech willing to touch the car,
would not be cost effective for me to pay for work on my system as is. 
Has a leak somewhere on the high side (loses 1 can static over the
winter but loses that same can after only a couple days of
refrigeration). Suspect it's in the area of the accumulator because
there's no observable oil at the condensor or compressor. One of these
days I'll pull the passenger wheel to investigate. Probably a dried
out O ring. Am *EXTREMELY* leery of opening rusty old A/C fittings --
some tubing is surprisingly thin walled. Stress fractures very easily.
Lost a condensor in one of my Lincolns once trying to replace its O
rings. Is sometimes the better part of valor simply to top off the freon. 

I have 6 auto A/C systems, the *NEWEST* of which is 23 years old. All
work, but with varying degrees of tightness. Surprisingly, one of the
tightest is running a low side hose from a 1972 Galaxy (disproving the
"R134 leaks through pores of old rubber" theory). DeLo falls in the
"not tight" category, probably because it spent most of its life
languishing under a tree. 

Re: third party A/C techs recognizing similarity of DeLo system -- at
least it is GM style, now emulated by Ford. Throughout the 1970's Ford
used a "suction throttling valve" to meter the freon from the low side
rather than an orifice of whatever sort on the high side (works and
ages much better BTW, plus the compressor never cycles). Scares
contemporary A/C techs worse than seeing a DeLo pull into the parking
lot. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I didn't mean to say you were actually putting a combustable mixture
> into your A/C system, I was only giving an example of a device that
> when used is inherently unsafe. Just because things are for sale does
> not always mean they are safe,



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 01:55:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Clip Help

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp?reqtyp=catalog&CtlgPgNbr=3075
http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp?reqtyp=catalog&CtlgPgNbr=3076

Shipping is usually FedEx, $7-$10, so buy yourself some other hardware
while you're there.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get the clip and roll pin that holds on
the cooling fan blades? I lost one of mine on the way home from Pigeon
Forge.
> I thought no problem, Houston has them listed as available, I'll
order a couple for spares. After I ordered them online I received a
note back with the rest of my order shipment saying neither was
available any longer from them.
> Trips to the very poor local auto stores here in Jacksonville were
fruitless. I have a box of roll pins myself but this must be a metric one?
> 
> Although I am not overheating with one fan I would feel better with
two here in the summer heat of Florida.
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 02:33:36 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Help--Lost all Brakelights!  3rd Brake Light

Ever since PF I had been looking for a 3rd brake light. It has been 
posted before but the one from an 86 Corvette, when painted to match, 
looks like it came standard on the rear louver.

When I tried searching for one (used or new) I found them impossible 
to find. The local Chevy dealer ordered me one and at the time he 
said there were 19 left in stock at the GM parts warehouse in 
Michigan. I don't know how hard these are to find but for new ones 
the supply seems to be limited.

Mike
#17084





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 04:52:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

If you can remove your exhaust crossover pipe, slave cylinder access
is really quite easy from below. 5 minutes max. Still need to bleed
from above due to angle of the bleeder screw.

My line/fitting are hopelessly rusted together too. I removed them and
the slave cylinder as a unit. Spun the new cylinder onto the fitting
on the workbench. Reinstallation was of course "reverse of procedure".
Because my line/fitting are basically one solid piece now, I opted to
work with them as such. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I am in the process of doing the same thing.  Getting at the clutch
slave cylinder is one of the hardest things I have had to do. 



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 04:58:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

I think you mean COUNTER clockwise. Engine rotates normally
(clockwise) and Cylinder #1 fires before Cylinder #6.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Matt,
> Going clockwise, the first mark you come to is your TDC or TDCO 
> mark. The next is about 115 deg. past the first mark.
> 
> Sean




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 23:01:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: I had a great time at DCS '04

Hi everyone,
I just arrived home from a trip overseas
yesterday,which included a very enjoyable trip to
DeLorean Car Show and have just started to wade
through 4 weeks of DML meesaages and wanted to give my
opinion of the show since I travelled further than
anyone to get there (I have the award to prove it!).If
any one in this part of the world is thinking of going
it is definately worth the distance.To see so many
cars in one place was wonderful.I felt the show ran
very smoothly and I had plenty to do.I felt the BTTF
guests were great,especially Bob Gale who participated
with great enthusiasm.I met many people and made new
friends which is what the show is all about.
I also wanted to publicly thank the DeLorean touring
society and in particular Ron and Cheryl Wester who
put me up at their place before the show and ferried
me around North Carolina for several days after the
show.
See you in Chicago in '06.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aust. 


		
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 08:25:42 +0200
From: Mads de Bruin <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: Re: Lambda ECU not connected(was: K-jetronic not connected)

Because the car was running fine and I drove it only once in the 
meantime, I didn't know what the solution was until this weekend. It 
turned out to be a simple problem.
It seems like the previousowner had a mechanic who probably disconnected 
the Lambda ECU connector and wasn't aware of it (or it was disconnected 
when he bought it, I don't know). He adjusted the O2 accordingly to keep 
the engine at a nice idle (O2 was way too high).
This weekend I was at DMC-Service who did my annual check-up and some 
other work and I ran the problem by him. We connected the Lambda 
connector and when we started it up, it started to idle irregularly. He 
started to adjust the O2 and had it running like it was supposed to in 
seconds.
So I''m glad the Lambda ECU wasn't defective and it was just a question 
of adjusting the O2.
It runs much better now and it responds much better when I press the 
accelarator.
Thank you all for your help and responses.

Mads de Bruin
Netherlands
#02010

[moderator snip]

>
>Mads,
>
>I assume by 'silver box' you are talking about the Lambda ECU.  apparently a 
>previous owner or mechanic had a problem with the lambda/frequency valve 
>system and did not care to repair the problem the right way, leaving you to try to
>
>1) figure out what the original problem was 
>2) figure out how they dealt with it in any number of stupid ways and 
>3) how to fix it the right way (that's where the shop manual and the DML 
>comes in!!!!!!).  
>
>the lambda ECU's function is to take readings from the lambda sensor, 
>interpret them as rich or lean, and instruct the frequency valve to modify the fuel 
>amount by varying its duty cycle in a pulse width signal (the valve is actually 
>kind of an actuator).  
>
>the first problem, even though your car seems to run 'perfectly', is that it 
>idles too high.  750RPM is correct according to the books.  
>
>you have two options - either
>
>1) leave the car as it is in a hacked but running state (like so many other 
>D's out there)
>or
>2) spend some quality time and money getting it to run 'right'.
>
>most of us on the DML would advocate option 2.  begin by plugging in the box 
>and making sure none of the wiring is cut or spliced.  if it is spliced, there 
>is other wiring added or deleted that you need to repair. refer to the 
>electrical diagram and read part 4 under the fuel, emissions chapter of the shop 
>manual.  you should replace your lambda sensor and make sure the frequency valve 
>is buzzing while the car is running, even if it doesn't sound like it is 
>running/idling well.  at least then the ECU isn't dead.  take your throttle linkage 
>apart, clean it, lubricate it, and make sure it is adjusted properly (could 
>be why your idle is high).  also the usual check of all vacuum lines, vacuum 
>leaks, etc could cause high idle.  
>
>this will probably take a while to fix properly but be patient.  the ECU 
>doesn't go bad often but there is probably more than one problem that needs to be 
>fixed.
>
>Let us know how things go and we will help you along.  it took me about 3 
>years of tinkering before i got my engine running 100% perfect.  i had probably 7 
>different things wrong at once and i had to fix one thing in order for 
>another problem to show itself - just be patient and keep at it.  
>
>Andy



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 02:28:04 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: I need some ammunition

Tom,

I couldn't agree more.  When I was younger (about 8 years ago), I bought a
1982 Toyota Supra... 2.8L black ext on grey int, 5-speed... I loved that
car.  It was falling apart, and I paid too much for it, and everyone I knew
thought I was crazy, but damn, it was the coolest car I've ever driven.
It was small for my needs (I have DJ'd weddings for 10 years, and I'm a big
guy), it was pricy on insurance because it was a sports car, but it was a
dream...

It ended up falling apart beyond my repair, and I sold it to my next door
neighbour for far less than I bought it... But really...I could have bought
a newer, more reliable car... but I guarantee it wouldn't have been nearly
as much fun to drive.

So, my advice: if you've got the cash, and you've done the research to know
what it is that you're getting yourself into, go for it.  Don't ask
permission.. if you're old enough to have saved $15k, deal with the fact
that many of your family or friends will think you're crazy.  They just
won't get it...

I've been chasing the same dream as you.. hoping to make it a reality by
early next year, and I make no apologies for wanting to live the dream (of
course, I think everyone wants me to hurry up and get a D so I'll finally
shut up about not owning one :)

Mark.
VIN: TBA in Ontario


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 8:27 PM
Subject: [DML] I need some ammunition
>
> I have bugged his ear off about the DeLorean now for more than 10
> years, and I recently reached the $15 k mark in my savings.  Is there
> any thing I can say to my father that would make it easier for him to
> accept that I want a 'small sports car' (or even that I own
> one..soon).  He just doesnt get it through his head that these things
> are fun, yeah a little more work than a Honda, and yes, parts may be
> a little harder to find, but its all about image.  My grandma refers
> to the DeLorean as an old peice of crap... why dont you get a new car
> Tom?  I have yet to test drive any "new" car off the lot that was fun
> to drive.  Really the 80's sports cars are the best, and the DMC in
> my oppion is at the top of that heep.
>
> Also, if you own a 84-86 Fiero and you have a few minutes, could you
> email me about problem areas... this one I found is dirt cheap.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom Porter
> Way up in Northern Maine
> Vin: Hopefully by end of year.



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