From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2116
Date: Monday, July 12, 2004 10:53 PM

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Solutions to binnacle problems

2. Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe
From: "content22207" <>

3. Wanted: Non-standard BTTF poster
From: "cruznmd" <>

4. Correction: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: "content22207" <>

5. Continued: Third Party A/C Techs
From: "content22207" <>

6. Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe
From: "Dave Swingle" <>

7. I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: Aaron Crocco <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 23:12:31 -0000
Subject: Re: Solutions to binnacle problems

Darren - Sometimes, we need to get back to the basics.  Remove the 
radio, and find the ground point along the metal structure just to 
the right of the radio opening (usually).  There are a few wires 
attached to a screw there.  Verify that this ground is clean and 
secure.  There is another ground on the passengers side just behind 
the vertical carpeted panel at the back of the parcel shelf.  It is a 
stud attached through the fiberglas underbody, and is a major ground 
point for many things in the engine compartment.  Check and clean 
that ground as well.  The advice offered by others on this List is 
also good advice.  Please let us know what you find out so that 
everybody can benefit from your situation.  DPNW does have new tach's 
and other dash instruments in stock if yours is bad.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC

--- In, "darrendiver" <darrendiver_at_dml_y...> 
> Has anyone ever had a Tach go out?  How does it behave when the 
tach is bad?  I am getting power to the rear of the binnacle and I 
have a tach, fuel gauge not working.  The fuel sender is new but 
there is no power to the fuel sender from the gauge.  Also, my 
transmission is putting out a signal that it is stuck in second 
gear.  I had someone look at the modulator and there was nothing 
obviously wrong with the circuit boards.  Can someone give me ideas 
where else to look.
> Thanks.


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 23:09:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe

I wasn't advising a dual exhaust conversion (though it is advisable
IMHO) -- simply removing the crossover pipe to access not only the
slave cylinder, but also:
- heater core takeoff barb
- ported vacuum switch
- other water distribution pipe sensors
- heater core shutoff valve
- ignition distributor (raise up the fuel/air mixture unit)
- etc etc etc
The crossover pipe *CAN* be put back in the factory configuration

Studs holding the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifolds are 10mm --
much less likely to break than 7mm's holding manifolds to the block
(are steel on steel too). Mine came off with nothing more than
penetrating oil and MAPP gas in a plumber's torch (not acetylene).
Replaced the carbon nuts with stainless steel to ensure ease of future

You really should experience a PRV without that silly crossover pipe
in the way. Removes half the objections usually raised by DeLo owners.
"Hidden" items are suddenly accessible -- without touching the intake
manifold! (Fuel/air mixture unit may need to raise up however). 

Removing and installing the slave cylinder without the crossover pipe
in the way is one of the easiest procedures you'll ever perform on the
car. 100% guarantee it. I *DO* advise removing the heater core takeoff
line during the process. 

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> That's a big IF. If the car is weathered (rusty) enough that the 
> clutch slave line is rusty and stuck, chances are that the crossover 
> nuts will be in a very permanent state too. That will lead to 
> breaking studs off the manifolds, and now you've created yourself Yet 
> Another DeLorean Project. Fixing this will probably require you to 
> remove the manifold(s) from the engine as drilling out the studs is 
> very difficult in-place. 
> Not everyone is ready to replace the exhaust system with flex tubing, 
> especially if you live in an area where they do emission 
> testing/inspection.
> I have removed the slave, with the line still attached, with the 
> crossover in place. It's very fiddly working around the heater lines 
> up there but it can be done.
> Dave S


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 00:58:16 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <>
Subject: Wanted: Non-standard BTTF poster

[Moderator Note:  PLEASE RESPOND OFF LIST BY PRIVATE EMAIL.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

And now for an extra-nerdy moment:

I saw this poster on ebay once, but parts took precedence over 
paraphanelia. It's a promotional poster for BTTF2 I think, it's 
nothing but the flaming tire tracks headed away from the point-of-
view. You can see it at Tamir's site here:

If anyone knows how I can obtain a full-size copy, I'd be very 

Rich A.


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 01:24:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Correction: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

Correction to my earlier reply to this post:

Pause is between Cylinders #1 and #6 (one of the advantages of
carburetion -- you can actually see the distributor cap!).

I think what's throwing you is engine rotates TWICE for each firing
cycle (720 degrees). Even fire would put the timing marks 120 degrees
apart. Odd fire pause moves the second mark another 30 degrees.

Firing order: 6-3 5-2 4-1.

You could put a timing light on a PRV (B27/B28) wire #6 for proof...

Bill Robertson

>--- In, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
> 1 and 6? How could this be?  From the timing sequence, 1 and 6 fire
> "together", and are just a few degrees off.  
> Jim
> 1537
> On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 17:22:49 -0000 "content22207"
> <brobertson_at_dml_c...> writes:
> > One mark is TDC Cylinder #1, the other is TDC Cylinder #6. PRV
> > wierdness (it's a good engine, but definitely has its quirks).
> > 
> > The two marks are 150 degrees apart. Look at the pulley with them
> > located  2:30 and 9:30 -- TDC #1 is to your right and TDC #6 is to
> > your left.
> > 
> > If your timing scale hasn't been monkeyed with you should be able to
> > time the ignition off whichever wire is easiest to access (you may
> > find that to be #6).
> > 
> > If your timing scale needs to be re-indexed, the PRV does have a 
> > nifty
> > way to do so: on top of the engine are two block plugs. The one
> > closest to the front (our back) accesses the oil galley. The one
> > closest to the back accesses a crankshaft counterweight, into which 
> > an
> > 8mm indexing hole is pre-drilled. Rotate the engine close to TDC #1
> > (no more that 20 degrees BTDC) and insert a foot long 5/16" drill 
> > bit
> > through the rear hole. The bit will ride on the counterweight.
> > Continue rotating the engine until the bit drops into the indexing
> > hole (8" or so down from the top of the engine). Cylinder #1 is now
> > TDC, and the timing scale can be positioned accordingly.
> > 
> > Crankshaft pulley is of course keyed, and does not have a harmonic
> > balancer, so you shouldn't ever need to worry about the timing marks
> > themselves.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> [moderator snip]


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 01:37:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Continued: Third Party A/C Techs

If you remember my DeLo, A/C is the *LEAST* of its concerns...

I'm sure there are plenty of tight 23 year old A/C systems. There are
also 23 year old doors without dents, 23 year old headliners that
don't sag, 23 year old toll windows that work, 23 year old wheels
without chips... (You get the idea).

DeLo's run the gamut of condition. I'm hoping that DCS Chicago will
showcase such. Some are only at the beginning of that long road to
restoration. Others have made it to the end. Count me among the first

Since freon is only $2.50 a can, for now I'm running the A/C as is and
focusing limited resources on my car's many other needs.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> If you are having problems with systems that are not tight you should
> improve your methods so that you can make them tight. On most cars you
> can do a pretty good job of it. Certain compressors are known for
> leaky shaft seals but they can be rebuilt with better ones. A Delorean
> can be made very tight. There are many that have not needed to be
> recharged and are still running after 20 years. Mine is tight but I
> blew the discharge hose a couple of years ago so it had to be replaced
> and recharged. The only things I replaced at the time was the hose and
> the "O" rings for it, and the service valve cores on the compressor
> (just good practice) and of course the R-12 and the refrigerent oil.
> Go buy the leak detector solution sold in the A/C shops and use it
> liberally over every connection. I agree that a fitting that is not
> leaking is best left alone. If you cannot see any leaks then you
> probably need a shaft seal. In the wintertime when you don't use the
> car you should turn the compressor by hand once in awhile to lubricate
> the seal. If you continually add refrigerent you MUST also add oil or
> you will burn up the compressor eventually. Leaking refrigerent
> carries out some oil with it so it MUST be replaced. If you have the
> equipment you can add leak detector to find hard to locate leaks. When
> using the leak detector solution (the soap), test the low side with
> the system not running and test the high side with the system running
> so as to test at the highest possible pressures. Go slowly, a small
> leak takes time to make bubbles. I don't like the fancy (expensive)
> electronic leak detectors on cars, there is usually too much air
> movement for them to work right. They don't like working in a wind
> tunnel! You can also make your own leak detector solution with soap
> (dishwashing liquid) and glycerin but I prefer to buy it, it seems to
> work better and easier and comes in a bottle with a nice brush. Be
> careful with the leak detector solution that you add to the system
> internaly. Too much can interfere with the operation of the system and
> if you spill it, it stains and is hard to remove (especally from skin!).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 02:36:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe

Sometimes I think you complicate things just to complicate things. I 
would not remove the heater hoses to get to the clutch slave - that 
just pours antifreeze all over everything making an already annoying 
job even slimier, not to mention adding about 3 more steps to the 
process and dripping coolant in your face.  It's not really that 
impossible, crossover pipe or not. This isn't a job you do on a 
particular car more than once every eight or ten years.

BTW - I have no objection to your dual exhaust in spite of what you 
read betwen my lines - it's just not a practical solution for people 
who live in areas with emission testing or ever expect to sell the 
car into such an area. I realize you don't do either of those, so 
it's fine for you. 

Dave S

--- In, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> I wasn't advising a dual---

> Removing and installing the slave cylinder without the crossover 
> in the way is one of the easiest procedures you'll ever perform on 
> car. 100% guarantee it. I *DO* advise removing the heater core 
> line during the process. 


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 22:11:32 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <>
Subject: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Hey everyone,

  This is an e-mail I've been waiting for a long time to write.  After
a lot of hard work, I am finally ready to purchase a Delorean.  If
anyone has any leads on any cars that are available, I would greatly
appreciate you letting me know.

  I am keeping an eye on, hemmings, and  I would prefer to purchase from within the community
though, as those cars usually have more traceable history to them.  I
am located on Long Island in New York if that helps for regional

  I appreciate everyone's help and the adventure begins for me.  Thanks!

-Aaron Crocco



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: