From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2117
Date: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:43 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

2. Odd chatter from brakes
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

3. RE: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: "D Nieves" <d_nieves_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. RE: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

5. Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. Re: Parts for sale, moving
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: Paul Gress <pgress_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Clutch pedal pressures
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

12. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: My results with L.E.D.s
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

14. Re: Vandalism to my D
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

15. Re: I need some ammunition
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

16. Re: Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Clutch pedal pressures
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

21. Cafe Press items
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

22. Re: My results with L.E.D.s
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: My results with L.E.D.s
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Door latch adjustment help
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

25. Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 20:21:55 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean


Aaron --  Congratulations on being so close!  FWIW, if I were on LI, 
I'd buy a car from Grady and feel secure that I was getting a primo 
vehicle.  I am in AZ, have never met Rob or seen his shop, or even 
interracted with him,  but based on the extraordinary reputation he 
has, I'd say you are lucky to be so close to him.

.............................LP
10440, an Arizona car 


>   This is an e-mail I've been waiting for a long time to write.  After
> a lot of hard work, I am finally ready to purchase a Delorean.  If
> anyone has any leads on any cars that are available, I would greatly
> appreciate you letting me know.
> 
>   I am keeping an eye on dmcnews.com, hemmings, cars.com and
> autotrader.com.  I would prefer to purchase from within the community
> though, as those cars usually have more traceable history to them.  I
> am located on Long Island in New York if that helps for regional
> people.
> 
>   I appreciate everyone's help and the adventure begins for me. 
>   Thanks!
> 
> -Aaron Crocco
> 
> NY Plate- OUTATYM



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 20:56:49 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Odd chatter from brakes

My brakes developed an annoying noise this weekend, and I can't find any
obvious cause.  It's more noticeable under harder braking and sounds like a
few small pebbles shaking in a coffee can.  That or a coat hanger hitting
against the spokes of a bicycle tire.  Not that I've done these things
recently but they are the best descriptors I could come up with right now.

I've inspected all four calipers, the front two have less than 5,000 miles
on them and all the pads are good.  The only thing I found was that on my
left front caliper the pad moves around a lot when I spin the rotor.  It
makes noise but it's not quite the same, and I imagine that pressure of
braking would prevent any movement of the pads.

Has anyone encountered a noise like this?  Anything else I should check?
Thank you!

Payne
#2975


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 23:16:49 -0400
From: "D Nieves" <d_nieves_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

How about PJ Grady? (luckily they too are on Long Island)


www.pjgrady.com/contact.asp



[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 22:21:32 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

I saw 2 for sale on Ebay from NY. Both had the gas flap too.

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Auto Groups
210-231-4214
210-681-4900


-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Crocco [mailto:acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 9:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Hey everyone,

  This is an e-mail I've been waiting for a long time to write.  After
a lot of hard work, I am finally ready to purchase a Delorean.  If
anyone has any leads on any cars that are available, I would greatly
appreciate you letting me know.

  I am keeping an eye on dmcnews.com, hemmings, cars.com and
autotrader.com.  I would prefer to purchase from within the community
though, as those cars usually have more traceable history to them.  I
am located on Long Island in New York if that helps for regional
people.

  I appreciate everyone's help and the adventure begins for me.  Thanks!

-Aaron Crocco

NY Plate- OUTATYM



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 03:52:42 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe

If you use the tiny socket wrench, 3/8" I believe-with the small
extension and the right size socket, taking out the clutch slave
cylinder should take you about 2 minutes working from under the car.
Takes me this long and I don't have to remove anything else aside from
the steel clutch line. You shouldn't have to remove the cross over-or
any coolant lines for that matter-as Dave said, it would just make the
project more difficult because now you need more coolant and need to
bleed the system to make sure no air entered. A dual exaust
eliminating the crossover does leave more space when a repair
arises-in fact I'm going to do some kind of conversion soon.-- but for
those of us who still have that damn crossover-
the use of small tools back there gets you a long way fast. Everyones
got their methods-just thought I'd share mine. -Dani B.
5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Sometimes I think you complicate things just to complicate things.
I 
> would not remove the heater hoses to get to the clutch slave - that 
> just pours antifreeze all over everything making an already
annoying 
> job even slimier, not to mention adding about 3 more steps to the 
> process and dripping coolant in your face.  It's not really that 
> impossible, crossover pipe or not. This isn't a job you do on a 
> particular car more than once every eight or ten years.
> 
> BTW - I have no objection to your dual exhaust in spite of what you 
> read betwen my lines - it's just not a practical solution for
people 
> who live in areas with emission testing or ever expect to sell the 
> car into such an area. I realize you don't do either of those, so 
> it's fine for you. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > I wasn't advising a dual---
> 
> > Removing and installing the slave cylinder without the crossover 
> pipe
> > in the way is one of the easiest procedures you'll ever perform
on 
> the
> > car. 100% guarantee it. I *DO* advise removing the heater core 
> takeoff
> > line during the process. 
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 21:10:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Parts for sale, moving

I might be interested in the air intake pieces.
I've thought that if I could get a set of for real
cheap it might be worth the money to try and have them
ported/polished up inside and out.

--- Ancira Internet Department <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
wrote:
> I am moving at the end of the month, and I need to
> get some things out of
> the garage. I put a few things on Ebay earlier:
> 
> Leather Seat Backs
> Drivers Door
> Front Speakers
> Front Calipers
> 
> I also have miscellaneous parts lying around:
> 
> Torn apart engine
> Clutch (don't know if it's any good)
> Top of engine (air intake)
> Wheel bearings (don't know if they are any good)
> Some computer (can't tell which one, its ivory in
> color)
> Valve covers
> 
> 
> If anyone needs any of these parts, please let me
> know. I need them out of
> the garage. First reasonable offer takes them. 
> 
> 
> Alex Wolf
> Internet Manager
> Ancira Dealerships
> 210-681-4900
> 210-231-4214 (Direct)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 00:54:48 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Aaron Crocco wrote:

> I
>am located on Long Island in New York if that helps for regional
>people.
>
>
>
>  
>
Have you tried PJ Grady, located in West Sayville, Long Island NY?

Paul



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 00:16:12 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Hey all,

Just to clarify because of all the responces I'm getting:

-I am looking for a 5-speed.  An automatic is out of the question.
-I strongly prefer a grey interior.
-My price range is something I would like to keep to myself, though I
am not looking to spend over $20k.

I hope this helps.  Thanks again everyone.  :)

-Aaron Crocco



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 05:01:47 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Clutch pedal pressures

Hello List - We received an inquiry from somebody regarding the 
appropriate amount of force that should be necessary to push in the 
DeLorean clutch pedal.  Anyone who has driven a long parade in a 
DeLorean knows that the effort is fairly high as compared to 
a "modern" car.  Well, in order to give this person a definitive 
answer, I actually measured my pedal.  Using some highly specialized 
equipment (bungee cord, 4X4 block of wood, and a digital bathroom 
scale) I have the following results for Winged1.  This car has a 
several years old Centerforce clutch setup (with the counterweights, 
although the car wasn't running during this experiment), reasonably 
fresh master and slave cylinder, stainless steel braided line, 
adjustable pedal linkage, and uses Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 fluid.  
The initial push was about 12 - 15 pounds, and ramped up to 27 - 28 
pounds when the clutch diaphragm started to release.  These values 
were fairly consistent over a half-dozen tries (without pushing the 
pedal all the way to the floor).  Does anybody else have any data 
that they would like to share on this topic?

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 04:14:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

Perhaps it's just the way I routed my particular hose. Was in the way,
so I removed it. Antifreeze will stop dripping before long. Remember
that right behind the crossover pipe, the takeoff barb is the closest
thing to you -- even closer than the ignition distributor! Makes
removal and reinstallation (of the heater core supply hose) a snap.

BTW: I drain and refill my cooling system in a heartbeat because it's
so easy to bleed. Re-routing the radiator bleed line uphill to my
heater core seems to be the trick (remember: I threw away the metal
pipe section from the radiator where it originally connected. If I'm
not mistaken I gave it to you...). Never realized how prone the stock
configuration was to trap air, even with a vaunted self bleeder, until
I helped two other owners before/after Pigeon Forge refill their
systems. Radiator simply would not bleed unless you cracked that hose
-- great fun with an OEM plastic nipple.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Sometimes I think you complicate things just to complicate things. I 
> would not remove the heater hoses to get to the clutch slave - that 
> just pours antifreeze all over everything making an already annoying 
> job even slimier, not to mention adding about 3 more steps to the 
> process and dripping coolant in your face.  It's not really that 
> impossible, crossover pipe or not. This isn't a job you do on a 
> particular car more than once every eight or ten years.
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 05:08:10 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Aaron - If you want a famous (and fabulous) car, check out "BLWNAWY" 
built by Darryl Tinnerstet, in McLeary, Washington.  Unless things 
have changed very recently, I believe it's available.  Can you 
say "supercharged"?  It's a beautiful car!

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1" (not for sale)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_g...> wrote:
After a lot of hard work, I am finally ready to purchase a 
Delorean.  If anyone has any leads on any cars that are available, I 
would greatly appreciate you letting me know.
 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 04:48:45 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Errr Ummmm PJ Grady is umm what.... down the block from where you 
live?? he knows the cars he has in inventory and is truly an honest 
person. You cant go wrong with him ....or give me 30Gs and ill 
deliver mine to your door...just kiddin not for sale. But honestly 
Rob can be a great help if you are really interested    Good luck

Harry 
vin 2696 
NYC




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 06:12:50 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: My results with L.E.D.s

FYI, the set you sold me is great. Had my car at a show a couple of
weeks ago and left the doors open for a good 4 hours at a minimum. Did
nothing to my battery. Didn't even flinch. It was nice to be able to
really show the doors off (the lights really "make" the doors) without
worrying about the battery.

I did, however, turn my interior lights off. ;)

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> As many of you know, I also sell these LED lights.
> I sold about 50 sets at the show.
> I noticed that the one's that Delorean Motor Center sells are white,
(and 
> $10 more than mine).
> My research has shown that using the white LEDs causes the color to
wash out 
> a little
> and get a hot white spot in the center.
> The truth is that it looks very stock since the original bulb does
the same 
> thing.
> 
> This is why I decided to use colored bulbs.
> I use the yellow for yellow and red for red.
> This gives a deep rich color that is better than the original.
> My LED clusters also feature 6 tiny super bright lights and are an
exact 
> replacment
> for the originals and install in seconds.
> 
> When Curtis (they guy with a amazing red car) saw them, he bought
two sets.
> Anyone who has my set on thier car thinks they are fantastic and I have 
> never had
> a single complaint.
> 
> I am out of stock right now, and will have more in about a week or so.
> - Videobob
> http://www.dfwdmc.com
> 
> 
> >From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...>
> >Subject: [DML] My results with L.E.D.s
> >
> >While at the DCS in Pigeon Forge, I asked Dan Botkin about his
brilliant
> >door lights on his Time Machine.  Although they were blue, he showed me
> >that they sell them in the standard colors as well.
> >He sold me a complete door set of the l.e.d. lamps, from the DeLorean
> >Motor Center table in the vendors room, and they are fantastic.  I
> >replaced my stock bulbs with them in a minute or two and they work
great.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 06:04:01 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to my D

I installed a similar alarm. Compustar two way paging. I can control
it from quite far away, and it alerts me if anything is happening with
my car. They claim like 1.25 mile range. I don't quite get that far,
but it's still significant. Best investment ever.

No microwave here. Don't give people a reason to damage your car by
warning them for "getting too close." I have a two stage shock sensor
so minor stuff will chirp a few times to say "Hey, knock it off". But
those cars that chirp just because you walk past them are /begging/ to
be keyed, or worse.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Wow bro, that really sucks and I feel for you.
> This bugs me because any thief would do the same thing.
> There is no way to use a "slim jim", and no real way to get in other
than 
> smashing the window
> and chances are they would never figure out how to get in after that.
> 
> I have mentioned here on the list about how my car was fingered to
death at 
> the
> Huey Lewis concert, and I love to take the car to downtown Dallas at
go bar 
> hopping
> but I have to keep a constant eye on my car.
> 
> First they step close and touch some part of the car to see if it is
"real".
> Then they knock on the fender to hear the "tone" of the metal.
> Next thing you know they are sitting on the hood or fender getting
> thier picture taken with some ones crappy cell phone!
> One a-hole actually opened my door, got it and posed for the picture.
> I was THIS CLOSE to shoving my Berreta up his XXX.
> 
> So today I visited with my buddies at "Crank It Up" car audio here
in Fort 
> Worth
> about the ultimate alarm.
> The one I am looking at will be about $600 or so when I am done.
> It will have what was described as "microwave" zones.
> If you get too close or look inside it will "chirp".
> If the inside pressure is changed such as opening the door or
breaking the 
> glass
> the alarm will blare.
> Hopefully the "chirping" will let them know that there is an alarm
and they 
> will
> think twice about doing it.
> The alarm will also send you a page to your remote control to let
you know
> what is going on.
> The two way paging system will let you start the car, lock unlock,
etc....
> It will confirm each function and can even be set with a timer to do
some of 
> these
> functions automaticly.
> 
> I am not sure who makes this kit, but it doesn't matter because any
major 
> car shop can
> install these.
> If you have a daily driver, a REAL alarm like this essential for our
cars.
> You need to have an early warning system to let the perp know to
leave the
> car alone when they hear the chirp warnings.
> 
> I will be installing this soon.
> I hope you will too.
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 06:46:11 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: I need some ammunition

[Moderator Note: Please, let's not start any threads discussing Fieros or any other non-DeLorean cars.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

Tom,

I've owned Fieros for over a decade. An '85 GT was my first. I briefly
owned an '85 SE while replacing the engine in the GT, I then sold the
SE to a friend. I then bought an '86 SE with a supercharged 3.8, which
I am now selling (http://www.ryanwright.com/fiero/86se3800sc/forsale/)
as I haven't driven it since I bought my DeLorean a couple of months ago.

If you have any specific questions about Fieros, ask me. I am darn
near an expert on them. I've replaced anything and everything. My
advice? Stay away from the 4 bangers. The 2.8 V6 is the only way to
go. Otherwise, have fun. They are great little cars, they're cheap to
buy, cheap to maintain, and if you get one that hasn't been abused it
shouldn't require very much work.

On the Dad thing: How old are you? I ask, because you must be 16 or
17. Old enough to drive, not old enough to own a car. If you're 18 or
above, then do whatever you like. Your parents no longer have a say in
what you drive. I'm not telling you to be disrespectful, but respect
is a two way street. A parent can and should voice his concern to his
adult son, but you are not obligated to get his blessing. 

If you're not 18, you can try to convince him, or you can wait a year
or two and then buy whatever you please. As for convincing, I don't
know how you should do that. You know your father, I don't. When I
told my Dad I wanted a sports car (my first was a Toyota MR-2), he
rolled his eyes and said, "You sure you don't want a station wagon?
I'll spring for the mattress and the condoms. It's really hard to get
laid in a sports car, you know." Yeah... Good Old Dad. I'd try an
honest approach if I were you: "Dad, I really want this car. I know
you don't approve, but it's my dream to drive a nice sports car like
that. I will take care of it and I promise not to get myself into
trouble with it."

My advice? Buy a Fiero. Preferably one with a V6. Then learn to
maintain it. There are COUNTLESS Fiero forums available - www.fiero.nl
is one of my favorites. The car is easier to work on compared to a
DeLorean and the community is really focused on DIY stuff. This is how
I learned to work on cars - by fixing my Fiero. You'll find step by
step, detailed instructions on anything and everything. As the years
go by you'll replace a lot of stuff, and you'll know if you're really
cut out to own a car like this. Do you have the time and patience to
do it? I spent 4 hours under my car the other night replacing every
coolant hose after the second one burst in as many days. I spent
another hour scrubbing the dirt and grime out of my hair. And I have a
nice garage, well stocked with tools, to work in. Are you willing to
buy the tools, the parts, and do the work?

Quite frankly, if I were 16 and I had $15k in a savings account, I
would have blown it all on the DeLorean. I also would have torn it up
driving it hard, repaired it wrong, and never would have had the money
to replace some of these parts. Not to mention I'd have had no idea
how to pull off any of the repairs I've had to make to my D. But
you're not me. You have to decide what you want to do. 

Oh, and once you get your sports car? No speeding, no racing, no
screwing around. I mean it. I went through half a dozen tickets and
several thousands of dollars in fines and attorney's fees in less than
2 years. Not cool to have your own criminal law attorney on retainer
at 17 (busted for racing: It's a criminal offense. Thank God he got me
off the hook - at considerable cost, but when you're facing 90 days in
jail for what seemed like innocent fun, you'd sell your soul to get
out of it), not to mention having all of the local cops know you on a
first name basis because they've all pulled you over for speeding at
one time or another. They used to call my PARENTS and "tattle" on me
when they'd give me yet another warning. I didn't live in a small
town, either: Population of over 150,000, so it's not like Small Town
Arkansas here. I took a girl out on a blind date once. Cute girl, too.
Group of cops at the restaurant we ate at had a lot of fun with me
that night, smiling, waving, making car and siren noises at us... 

When Billy Bob pulls up next to you in his Mustang and revvs the
engine, you smile, watch him tear his tires up, and accelerate like a
little old lady out for a stroll. When he gives you crap at school
about racing your "pansy car", tell him he's right: The car is gutless
and you're not going to race because you know you'll lose, so would he
please quit asking. Even if you're sure you'd kick his tail, let him
feel superior.

Eh, enough lecturing. Just keep your nose clean, and let us know what
you decide to do. And don't buy a $12,000 DeLorean unless you're
willing to sink another $5,000 into it the very next day. For that
matter don't buy a DeLorean unless you have several thousand leftover
to fix the little things the previous owner neglected. Fieros can be
fixed quickly and cheaply if you do it yourself. DeLoreans, not so much.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> As many a young people, I have been lerking on the list, occasionaly 
> posting, even once or twice very serious in attempts to purchase 
> cars, but now I have severly run into a snag that I knew was 
> coming... just hoped and prayed it would be swept under the rug.
> 
> Today I was looking at a Pontiac Fiero.  In the deep woods of Maine, 
> its hard to find any cars other than the run of the mill fords or 
> hondas.  My dad was in utter discust about the 2 seater and the whole 
> concept, and here I was pretty darn estatic to see such a rare 
> car "for the area."  
> 
> I have bugged his ear off about the DeLorean now for more than 10 
> years, and I recently reached the $15 k mark in my savings.  Is there 
> any thing I can say to my father that would make it easier for him to 
> accept that I want a 'small sports car' (or even that I own 
> one..soon).  He just doesnt get it through his head that these things 
> are fun, yeah a little more work than a Honda, and yes, parts may be 
> a little harder to find, but its all about image.  My grandma refers 
> to the DeLorean as an old peice of crap... why dont you get a new car 
> Tom?  I have yet to test drive any "new" car off the lot that was fun 
> to drive.  Really the 80's sports cars are the best, and the DMC in 
> my oppion is at the top of that heep.
> 
> Also, if you own a 84-86 Fiero and you have a few minutes, could you 
> email me about problem areas... this one I found is dirt cheap.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom Porter
> Way up in Northern Maine
> Vin: Hopefully by end of year.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:40:27 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

In a message dated 7/13/2004 8:34:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com writes:
-I am looking for a 5-speed.  An automatic is out of the question.
-I strongly prefer a grey interior.
-My price range is something I would like to keep to myself, though I
am not looking to spend over $20k.
I have a 5 speed grey that I am refurbishing 
since it is being restored you would get some items that you noramlly would 
not 
like
new powdercoated wheels
new tires
new brake calipers all around,
new fan assy
repainted front facia with stiffener
The engine is rebuilt like the raffle car from the block up so it is nice and 
clean
tune u p 
fuel injectors cleaned and tested,
undercarriage cleaned and repaired,  This one has a brand new crumple zone,
pressure tested radiator and evaporater
refurbished trunk
new master clutch cylinder 
new clutch slave cylinder
Tune up 
new exhaust gaskets
so all the major stuff is done

The price is $16.5K plus you can upgrade the radio if you want as it does not 
have one in it now and I was just going to drop in an original one but we can 
put in a cd player if you wish

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 12:57:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal pressures

No specific data, but several observations from having worked on a 
bunch of them..

I've run into cars (including mine) where the pressure was much 
higher. This seemed to relate to lack of grease at the clutch fork 
pivot ball, and lack of grease on the throwout bearing. If you have a 
very low mileage car with an excessively stiff clutch this is 
probably the issue. 

Many modern cars have a "helper spring" on the clutch pedal itself 
that gives an "over centering" assist after the pedal is pushed about 
1/3 of the way down. I removed such a spring on my kid's Subaru 
because it made the car difficult to launch smoothly due masking the 
feel of the clutch engaging. The clutch is notably stiffer but much 
easier to modulate. Still very light though compared to the DMC. I've 
seen the same spring setup on most Japanese cars and BMWs. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Hello List - We received an inquiry from somebody regarding the 
> appropriate amount of force that should be necessary to push in the 
> DeLorean clutch pedal.  Anyone who has driven a long parade in a 
> DeLorean knows that the effort is fairly high as compared to 
> a "modern" car.  Well, in order to give this person a definitive 
> answer, I actually measured my pedal.  Using some highly 
specialized 
> equipment (bungee cord, 4X4 block of wood, and a digital bathroom 
> scale) I have the following results for Winged1.  This car has a 
> several years old Centerforce clutch setup (with the 
counterweights, 
> although the car wasn't running during this experiment), reasonably 
> fresh master and slave cylinder, stainless steel braided line, 
> adjustable pedal linkage, and uses Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 
fluid.  
> The initial push was about 12 - 15 pounds, and ramped up to 27 - 28 
> pounds when the clutch diaphragm started to release.  These values 
> were fairly consistent over a half-dozen tries (without pushing the 
> pedal all the way to the floor).  Does anybody else have any data 
> that they would like to share on this topic?
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:46:13 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

 
Aaron, 
 
Congratulations!,
 
You did not mention what type of D you are looking for ie. one that is  
pristine or one that needs work (and what kind of work)  and in what price  range.

 
Good Luck and if you  need any help let me know
(You know how to  reach me.)


Dave & 6530



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:04:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Removing Exhaust Crossover Pipe

Thought I'd add my 2p, because although I like to let Bill dig his own 
holes these days, I *do* have quite a bit of experience here.

I've never removed the 10mm manifold-to-crossover nuts without breaking 
at least one. Some come off with deliberate shear points evident. They 
often require a 4' extensions bar and the intention is to deliberately 
break them then. The annoying ones are the ones that insist on 
unscrewing! (this is when doing manifold gaskets).

Personally I change a clutch slave from the top by removing the intake 
manifold. There's a trick way of doing it without removing the metering 
head/intake venturi assembly. Takes me about 15 minutes to get to the slave.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>Sometimes I think you complicate things just to complicate things. I 
>would not remove the heater hoses to get to the clutch slave - that 
>just pours antifreeze all over everything making an already annoying 
>job even slimier, not to mention adding about 3 more steps to the 
>process and dripping coolant in your face.  It's not really that 
>impossible, crossover pipe or not. This isn't a job you do on a 
>particular car more than once every eight or ten years.
>
>BTW - I have no objection to your dual exhaust in spite of what you 
>read betwen my lines - it's just not a practical solution for people 
>who live in areas with emission testing or ever expect to sell the 
>car into such an area. I realize you don't do either of those, so 
>it's fine for you. 
>
>Dave S
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:35:35 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

I have three that are avail
one is complete the others will be avail in Sept

the 170 mile car is 28K
the othere two are $16.5K

One is black interior light grey carpets 1983 automatic
the other is not back together and can be put back as a grey or black 
it is a 5 speed

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 10:39:10 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: Cafe Press items


Shameless self promotion:

http://www.cafeshops.com/dmc12

Michael




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My results with L.E.D.s

Put LED's in the front trunk light, the interior
lights and, in my case, the TWO engine compartment
lights and you can then really "light up" a car show. 
Trust me, several hours will have no effect upon the
battery.

Dick Ryan




--- ryanpwright <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com> wrote:
> FYI, the set you sold me is great. Had my car at a
> show a couple of
> weeks ago and left the doors open for a good 4 hours
> at a minimum. Did
> nothing to my battery. Didn't even flinch. It was
> nice to be able to
> really show the doors off (the lights really "make"
> the doors) without
> worrying about the battery.
> 
> I did, however, turn my interior lights off. ;)
> 
> -Ryan
> 

[moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 12:04:14 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My results with L.E.D.s

Thanks for the support.
I am proud of my research on these.
I have a bucket full of other lights I have bought from every manufacturer 
looking for the best combination of performance and price.

Brighter is not always better.
I just tried out some new bulbs that have come to markey that are supposed 
to be
twice as bright as the ones I sell, but cost 33% more each.
I tried them out and in my opinion the one's I already sell look better.

One day, these lights will be cheaper than anything and will be common,
but until then I am proud to be the first one to sell them as a kit.
I have sold about 100 sets of these to happy Delorean owners so far,
that is 600 bulbs. Out of those 600 only one bulb was defective which I 
replaced.
Pretty good numbers.

As far as leaving the doors up, you could leave these lights on for weeks at 
a time
without making a real dent in your battery.
A full day or two at a car show is nothing.....

A lot of people have asked for LED's for the running lights too, and I have 
yet
to find any that are satisfactory looking.
The light needs to be equal or brighter than the original incandescent in 
order to
make it worth doing.
Unlike your house, where electricity is billed it makes no difference how 
much
power your running lights use when the car is running.
Also, you would not normally have these lights on when the car is on 
display.
The reflective properties of the lenses require light from all sides to 
light up the
whole lens. Just like a flashlight.
There are now LED's that have lights pointing forward as well as all around
(like a pinecone) that will simulate this.
Now, these are still not as good as a real bulb but look pretty good.
The downside is that a regular bulb costs about $1 or so and will last for 
many years.
The LED will cost somewhere in the $30-$40 range for the same thing.
However, if you did replace all of your running lights with LED's then you 
could
leave your doors up with the running lights on all day with almost no 
effect.

I am working on this, and will let everyone know when I find what I am 
looking for.
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] My results with L.E.D.s
>Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 06:12:50 -0000
>
>FYI, the set you sold me is great. Had my car at a show a couple of
>weeks ago and left the doors open for a good 4 hours at a minimum. Did
>nothing to my battery. Didn't even flinch. It was nice to be able to
>really show the doors off (the lights really "make" the doors) without
>worrying about the battery.
>
>I did, however, turn my interior lights off. ;)
>
>-Ryan
>

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:27:35 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Door latch adjustment help

List,

My driver's side door does not latch as tightly as the passenger side.  It is not flush with the rear quarter panel, but is flush with the front fender.  I assume an adjustment needs to be made around the striker, but where and how?  I searched the archives, but could only find adjustments about the torsion bar.

Thanks,
Jace
VIN 3488



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:22:09 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

Bill - This is something that many owners and mechanics don't seem to 
be aware of, and that is that the radiator *must* be bled as a 
separate step.  The air in that end of the car will rarely find its 
way out through the engine compartment self-bleeder.  And, as you 
hint in your post below, doing this task is not that much fun.  There 
was a thread some time ago about people's favorite flavors of 
antifreeze that they enjoyed (in the face) during the radiator bleed 
operation.  For this reason, check out part number K1017DP for the 
radiator, which is also part of our improved self bleeder kit K1012DP 
on the DPNW website.  Bleeding air out has never been so easy and 
clean!   

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
Never realized how prone the stock configuration was to trap air, 
even with a vaunted self bleeder, until I helped two other owners 
before/after Pigeon Forge refill their systems. Radiator simply would 
not bleed unless you cracked that hose -- great fun with an OEM 
plastic nipple.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------