From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2118
Date: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:00 PM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. RE: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

3. Advice to First DeLorean Buyers
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Getting ready to drop engine back in...some questions
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

6. Re: Getting ready to drop engine back in...some questions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

8. Clarification #2: I am ready to purchase a Delorean
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

10. Re: Correction: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

11. Continued: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Aircon strained
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

13. Re: Door latch adjustment help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Door latch adjustment help
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

15. DMC (Texas) New Interior
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

16. Re: Removing Rusty Nuts
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Clutch pedal pressures
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. RE: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. body panels
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Odd chatter from brakes
From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer_at_dml_comcast.net>

21. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:09:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clarification: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

You didn't mention exterior color -- silver, or red (inside joke Mid
Atlantic club).

Seriously to painted owners: have you ever considered white? Was a
white DeLo sold on eBay same weekend as Pigeon Forge (California I
believe). Absolutely stunning scheme for the car. Makes the much more
common red look positively pedestrian in comparison.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> Just to clarify because of all the responces I'm getting:
> 
> -I am looking for a 5-speed.  An automatic is out of the question.
> -I strongly prefer a grey interior.
> -My price range is something I would like to keep to myself, though I
> am not looking to spend over $20k.
> 
> I hope this helps.  Thanks again everyone.  :)
> 
> -Aaron Crocco




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 12:14:59 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

Just for everyone's information:

Yes Joe Molino placed his order on June 29th it was shipped the same day and
was delivered the next day on June 30th at 12:05PM and was singed for by a
Molino. Go to www.ups.com and enter tracking number 1z1613350345412947 and
see for your self.

And Joe, I would suggest that you check with your family members because it
was delivered.

Anthony
PJ Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Molino [mailto:foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 1:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

I am in the process of doing the same thing.  Getting at the clutch slave
cylinder is one of the hardest things I have had to do.  It must be my ape
hands.  Me too, the line kept turning with the fitting when I was trying to
remove it and it kinked itself.  I have ordered a new one from PJ Grady but
I still haven't received it.  Over 2 weeks now.  I was inquiring about the
flex line as well.  Let me know

Joseph Molino



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 10:29:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Advice to First DeLorean Buyers

I am always amazed at the detailed knowledge of many who post on the DML. They are an amazing resource to those of us who thirst for such knowledge and experience.The vendors who help to keep us on the road also deserve much credit. There are numerous checklists available to potential buyers who need to know what to look for in buying a DeLorean. I would advise new buyers to get and use the checklist. The most important single issue in my opinion is the condition of the car's frame. I made an impulse purchase of a DeLorean,at the urging of my son, only to find out later that the car had frame problems. Fortunately,my experience had a happy ending, I traded the car in on one that had been completedly refurbished and had a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty.I essentially traded the car in for what I had in it. The "new" car has been trouible free. I would urge anyone buying a DeLorean to get a frame inspection before completing the purchase. At the very least have the seller put the car on
 the lift and send pictures of the underside. Everything you can see when the car is on the road is pretty easily  fixable,even left front fenders.  Bad frames are get into another dimension entirely. Giver a choice of a pristine car with a bad frame or a "ratty"car with bad seats, cracked binnacle,sagging headliners,stale gasoline,bad fuel pump, etc. I would put my money into the rat. The rat will likely be cheaper to buy and also  to fix up.



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:11:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

Yep - your pipe is still sitting here on the shelf...  and keep my 
plastic nipples out of it....

Now your talking though - how did you route the radiator bleeder to 
the heater core (i.e. is there an added tee somewhere? did you use a 
valve?)? That sounds like one of those "why didn't they think of 
that" ideas. I generally get the cooling system loaded up, pressurize 
and bleed it, then crawl under the front of the car, pull that hose 
off, spit out the coolant I get in my face, and hook it back up. It's 
occurred to me to put a bleeder valve there somewhere, but I never 
have.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
 Re-routing the radiator bleed line uphill to my
> heater core seems to be the trick (remember: I threw away the metal
> pipe section from the radiator where it originally connected. If I'm
> not mistaken I gave it to you...). Never realized how prone the 
stock
> configuration was to trap air, even with a vaunted self bleeder, 
until
> I helped two other owners before/after Pigeon Forge refill their
> systems. Radiator simply would not bleed unless you cracked that 
hose
> -- great fun with an OEM plastic nipple.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 17:07:33 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Getting ready to drop engine back in...some questions

I have a manual transmission and I just finished bolting it back 
onto the engine (the 4 big bolts).  Is there any way for me to check 
the operation of the clutch fork? 
 I tried to look down inside to make sure the throwout bearing 
didn't come off the clutch fork as I was inserting the input shaft 
into the engine, but I couldn't tell for sure.  
Anyway, when I try to move the clutch fork with my hand, it moves 
about 1 inch back and forth but no further than that.  Does it take 
much more force to disengage it completely?  If so, I guess I never 
really gave the slave cylinder enough credit.  :)   I wanted to test 
the operation just so I wouldn't have to pull out the engine again 
if I find out that something fell apart inside.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:59:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Getting ready to drop engine back in...some questions

I was able to activate the clutch fork with a 30-inch pry bar against 
one of the casting bosses on the bellhousing. You'll never be able to 
compress the pressure plate spring directly by hand.

Put the trans in any gear, while you are prying on the fork have 
someone attempt to turn both axle flanges together. WHen they can 
turn them you have released the clutch. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I have a manual transmission and I just finished bolting it back 
> onto the engine (the 4 big bolts).  Is there any way for me to 
check 
> the operation of the clutch fork? 
>  I tried to look down inside to make sure the throwout bearing 
> didn't come off the clutch fork as I was inserting the input shaft 
> into the engine, but I couldn't tell for sure.  
> Anyway, when I try to move the clutch fork with my hand, it moves 
> about 1 inch back and forth but no further than that.  Does it take 





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 17:01:33 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Arron:

IT'S ABOUT TIME!!!    Good Luck with your search......    :-)

Kayo

==========================================================================

In a message dated 7/12/04 11:11:07 PM, acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com writes:


> I am finally ready to purchase a Delorean.
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 16:58:16 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Clarification #2: I am ready to purchase a Delorean

Hey everyone yet again.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and offers you have all sent me. 
I am VERY much aware of Rob / PJ Grady's and I even worked for Rob for
a few months back during the summer a few years ago.  I am in the
process of getting in contact with him, but I wanted to put the
'feelers' out there to everyone so I have as many options as possible.

To anyone who has sent pointers to me,  I appreciate those as well. 
If you've ever been to any of the Mid-Atlantic club events, you would
see that I am more than just an enthusiast but someone who gets
involved and supports the community.  I'm as serious as can be about
buying this car and (most importantly) doing it right.

One thing I want to make sure about is that I don't rush the process
and buy a lemon while hopefully getting one while the weather is still
beautiful.  I'm sure it'll all work out sometime soon.

Again, if anyone has any info on cars that are out there, please let
me know on here or off-list.  Thanks!

-Aaron Crocco

NY Plate- OUTATYM



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 17:06:47 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible

[MODERATOR NOTE: Just when it looked like this thread was getting out of hand, suddenly we have closure.  This message is the last I will approve about this delivery incident.
- moderator Mike Substelny]

Anthony,

    A "Molino" did not sign for it.  It was delivered to another building in
my condo complex.  A completely different town than I asked for it to be
delivered to.  Let's not get crazy, here.  I did not slam anyone.  I emailed
Rob Grady privately as to what happened last night. I have used him for
years and I was always happy.  I wasn't worried.  It was left outside of 38
Potomac Drive, Basking Ridge, NJ.  That apt is vacant so I would love to
know who signed for it.  I live at 34 Potomac Drive.  I asked you on the
phone, Anthony to deliver it to 47 Susan Drive, Chatham, NJ. I am really
confused as to why you would try to make me look stupid on this forum.  It
was just a typo that had a happy ending.  I got the part.

Joseph Molino

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 12:14 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible


> Just for everyone's information:
>
> Yes Joe Molino placed his order on June 29th it was shipped the same day
and
> was delivered the next day on June 30th at 12:05PM and was singed for by a
> Molino. Go to www.ups.com and enter tracking number 1z1613350345412947 and
> see for your self.
>
> And Joe, I would suggest that you check with your family members because
it
> was delivered.
>
> Anthony
> PJ Grady
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joseph Molino [mailto:foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net]
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 1:01 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Replacing rigid clutch line with flexible
>
> I am in the process of doing the same thing.  Getting at the clutch slave
> cylinder is one of the hardest things I have had to do.  It must be my ape
> hands.  Me too, the line kept turning with the fitting when I was trying
to
> remove it and it kinked itself.  I have ordered a new one from PJ Grady
but
> I still haven't received it.  Over 2 weeks now.  I was inquiring about the
> flex line as well.  Let me know
>
> Joseph Molino



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 17:13:05 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Correction: Timing marks on crankshaft pulley

Yea Bill, 

We made the same mistake.  The Delorean manual prints the sequence as:
1-6-3-5-2-4

which is technically correct but misleading (for me) to think that meant
1-6 3-5 2-4    (where 1 and 6 fire closely, as you say, 30degrees)

If you are correct about the timing wheel marks, it would have been nicer
for them to print:
6-3-5-2-4-1

or as you said, 6-3 5-2 4-1.

Jim


On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 01:24:48 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> writes:
> Correction to my earlier reply to this post:
> 
> Pause is between Cylinders #1 and #6 (one of the advantages of
> carburetion -- you can actually see the distributor cap!).
> 
> I think what's throwing you is engine rotates TWICE for each firing
> cycle (720 degrees). Even fire would put the timing marks 120 
> degrees
> apart. Odd fire pause moves the second mark another 30 degrees.
> 
> Firing order: 6-3 5-2 4-1.
> 
> You could put a timing light on a PRV (B27/B28) wire #6 for proof...
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 21:54:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

Made myself a Tee from a piece of 5/8" pipe (steel) and a brass hose
barb. My radiator also has a brass barb to replace the plastic one
that broke off (passes all the way through the side channel with a
pipe cap on the other end, hole dilled in the side for radiator
passage access).

Bryan Pearce sells ready made Tees.

I'm guessing the original design is for ease of manufacturing. Allows
workers to simply drop the body on an already completed chassis.
Unfortunately it's also DOWNHILL to the radiator return line.

You get all sorts of wild sounds from the dash when you bleed through
the heater core -- gurgles, burps, etc. After they stop, you know the
system's air free.

My original intent was to jetison that piece of pipe. Found it
frustratingly difficult to reattach to the radiator. Plus mine banged
against the crumple tube, knocking the epoxy loose. I've simplified my
plumbing to 6 pipe sections: 2 in the engine compartment and 4 under
the car. Remainder is commercial grade hose.

I put protective collars on the hose sections that run past the
transmission and drive axles to protect them if they ever contact my
dual exhaust tubing. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yep - your pipe is still sitting here on the shelf...  and keep my 
> plastic nipples out of it....
> 
> Now your talking though - how did you route the radiator bleeder to 
> the heater core (i.e. is there an added tee somewhere? did you use a 
> valve?)? That sounds like one of those "why didn't they think of 
> that" ideas. I generally get the cooling system loaded up, pressurize 
> and bleed it, then crawl under the front of the car, pull that hose 
> off, spit out the coolant I get in my face, and hook it back up. It's 
> occurred to me to put a bleeder valve there somewhere, but I never 
> have.
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
>  Re-routing the radiator bleed line uphill to my
> > heater core seems to be the trick (remember: I threw away the metal
> > pipe section from the radiator where it originally connected. If I'm
> > not mistaken I gave it to you...). Never realized how prone the 
> stock
> > configuration was to trap air, even with a vaunted self bleeder, 
> until
> > I helped two other owners before/after Pigeon Forge refill their
> > systems. Radiator simply would not bleed unless you cracked that 
> hose
> > -- great fun with an OEM plastic nipple.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 22:15:56 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Aircon strained

My DMC aircon system had been put under great pressure... 500psi I
think..... seemed fine after being regassed but then nothing.... turned out
to be empty and when nitrogen was pumped in to find a leak the high & low
and pressure switches were the overiding culprits at thishad failed.

Having replaced both switches at least one more leak remains.  The rubber
hose which outputs near the high/low pressure switches when covered with my
finger shows that some airflow is coming through from the evorapator
assembly.

How do I get into the evaporator assembly as the screws if I remember
correctly need to be done from above and the workshop manual is not very
helpful on this one....

Can anyone help me on this please??

Chris Hawes
vin 5255





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 23:26:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door latch adjustment help

You need to be sure that both the front and back door locks are
latching on the "2nd" position. Once you are sure that they are both
clicking twice as you slowly close the door, the door is adjusted. NOW
you can align the panels to the doors, not the other way around. Since
you say the front panel seems to be OK it sounds like you need to
adjust the fit of the rear quarter panel to the door. Do not try to
adjust the door striker pins if the door seals are old and flat.
Replace the seals and then, IF YOU NEED TO, you adjust the striker pins.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> List,
> 
> My driver's side door does not latch as tightly as the passenger
side.  It is not flush with the rear quarter panel, but is flush with
the front fender.  I assume an adjustment needs to be made around the
striker, but where and how?  I searched the archives, but could only
find adjustments about the torsion bar.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jace
> VIN 3488
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 21:36:06 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Door latch adjustment help

Jace - This operation lends itself to somebody who has a little bit 
of experience, or just the right touch.  You actually loosen the 
striker pin on the underbody, and move it to get the proper closure 
on the door.  For instance, if the door is sticking out a bit in the 
rear, you may be able to move the striker pin in and down just a 
little to get the closure more flush.  The threaded end of the 
striker pin screws into a captive nut, so you don't have to worry 
about something dropping down inside the body.  You may have a rubber 
grommet glued around the base of the striker pin, which can hide the 
hex flats for the wrench.  If you peel the grommet off, you simply 
glue it back on when you're done.  Remember that the door moves in an 
arc, so you typically have to move the pin in two directions (down 
and in, for instance) to get the desired result.  This is where the 
experience or "touch" becomes handy.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> My driver's side door does not latch as tightly as the passenger 
side.  It is not flush with the rear quarter panel, but is flush with 
the front fender.  I assume an adjustment needs to be made around the 
striker, but where and how?




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 17:49:27 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: DMC (Texas) New Interior

By popular request, this month's wallpaper:

http://delorean.com/downloads.asp#wallpapers

Is a shot of the new interior.

Next showing of this car will be July 24th and 25th at the California
Classic.

http://www.californiaautofest.com

Arizona DeLorean Club members attending the Wednesday July 21st meeting get
a sneak peek - contact Randal Brown for details at "rwbrown(at)mmm.com"

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.716 / Virus Database: 472 - Release Date: 7/5/2004




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 22:18:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Rusty Nuts

You're more than welcome to look under my car: 4 factory original
rusty studs still intact in the manifolds. Soaked the nuts for a week
or so with penetrating oil, zapped them with the plumbers torch, then
removed them WITHOUT a cheater (isn't room).

Rich Acuti is the proud new owner of my gutted catalytic converter,
also with 4 intact factory original rusty studs. Ask him.

I think most people mess up removing rusty hardware:
- Not using enough penetrating oil (we're talking days of soaking)
- Using WD-40 instead of real penetrating oil
- Not using heat
- Using too long of a handle
- Rushing the procedure

Another alternative is nut splitters. Used one on my Renault block to
break off the manifold to head nuts. Didn't loose a single stud. Need
to shoot up a roll of film so perhaps I'll post pics to #5939's photo
album soon.

Remember: we're talking about steel on steel here, not steel into
aluminum. Electrolysis isn't the problem. If the threads themselves
haven't deteriorated, they're just blocked.

Once the nuts are off, only a mad man would replace them with carbon
steel again. My whole dual exhaust is stainless except for the
manifolds, studs (not nuts or washers), and mufflers themselves
(couldn't find stainless ones small enough). 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Thought I'd add my 2p, because although I like to let Bill dig his own 
> holes these days, I *do* have quite a bit of experience here.
> 
> I've never removed the 10mm manifold-to-crossover nuts without breaking 
> at least one. Some come off with deliberate shear points evident. They 
> often require a 4' extensions bar and the intention is to deliberately 
> break them then. The annoying ones are the ones that insist on 
> unscrewing! (this is when doing manifold gaskets).
> 
> Personally I change a clutch slave from the top by removing the intake 
> manifold. There's a trick way of doing it without removing the metering 
> head/intake venturi assembly. Takes me about 15 minutes to get to
the slave.
> 
> Martin
> 





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 00:16:42 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal pressures

I don't know if this was said already, but it's difficult to get an
accurate measure because the pressure will vary from some peoples' new
clutches to others' old worn in clutches. You don't want to get caught
in traffic with a new clutch, your leg will kill you when the trip is
through and until it wears in. While with an old clutch installed-the
pedal will sink to the floor with little pressure. -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 00:51:47 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

Regarding bleeding the air.
My cooling fans worked very intermittently and whenever they desired.
It took me several months of people telling me my fans weren't kicking on 
because of a bad ground. I should replace all my wiring, I should buy new 
relays, or I had a bad otterstat and every other crazy.. I had an air 
bleeder hose already on my car.
FINALLY, somebody suggested I bleed the air out right at the radiator AT THE 
RADIATOR..
I did it, the fans have worked every time since..
Thanks and here's to those who have fan problems.

Dale Funk
4984

>From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
>Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:22:09 -0000
>
>Bill - This is something that many owners and mechanics don't seem to
>be aware of, and that is that the radiator *must* be bled as a
>separate step.  The air in that end of the car will rarely find its
>way out through the engine compartment self-bleeder.  And, as you
>hint in your post below, doing this task is not that much fun.  There
>was a thread some time ago about people's favorite flavors of
>antifreeze that they enjoyed (in the face) during the radiator bleed
>operation.  For this reason, check out part number K1017DP for the
>radiator, which is also part of our improved self bleeder kit K1012DP
>on the DPNW website.  Bleeding air out has never been so easy and
>clean!
>
>Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
>DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
>www.delorean-parts.com
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
>wrote:
>Never realized how prone the stock configuration was to trap air,
>even with a vaunted self bleeder, until I helped two other owners
>before/after Pigeon Forge refill their systems. Radiator simply would
>not bleed unless you cracked that hose -- great fun with an OEM
>plastic nipple.
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 21:36:49 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: body panels

Other than the T-top and hood (thanks to Josh) I have more body panels than I 
need to make my custom D hopefully by 2006 probably 2008.

If you need body panels just e-mail me privately.  

I have one set that is perfect and I was going to save it for spare panels 
but I need room at this point.  

Other than that I have at least one of each and as many as three of some
One of the cars I bought came with spare fenders and parts and they are in 
good condition.
IF you want less than perfect I have some with small dings that are avail as 
well.

thanks

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 03:49:31 -0000
From: "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Odd chatter from brakes

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> My brakes developed an annoying noise this weekend, and I can't find any
> obvious cause.  It's more noticeable under harder braking and sounds like a
> few small pebbles shaking in a coffee can.  That or a coat hanger hitting
> against the spokes of a bicycle tire.

That sounds quite similar to a problem my father had a few years ago. There was a bizarre 
rattling sound coming from the left front wheel during braking (this wasn't a DeLorean). It 
turned out that a small rock (perhaps half an inch wide) had gotten jammed between the 
brake rotor and the hub. Once the rock was removed (and the rotor inspected for 
damage), all was well.




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 04:03:16 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

How would one go about making an LED appear to be a normal bulb, so
that a BA7s LED could be used in place of the fan fail bulb and not
cause problems with the SpecialTAuto 2x2? An inline resistor, perhaps? 

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I'd just like to say thank you, as I replaced my AC panel bulbs with
> LEDs this evening, and thanks to having seen your message, avoided
> having to troubleshoot an extra issue.  (I have the SpecialTAuto dual
> fan fix 2x2, which is similar to FanZilla)
> 
> Also, AutoLumination (http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm) now
> carries BA7s bulbs, which is where I obtained mine.  They shipped very
> fast, and I'm very pleased with the vendor.  (I'm in the US so YMMV,
> but I was impressed)
> 
> --Greg
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_n...>
> wrote:
> > Problem solved!
> > And I would like to let the list know what happened.
> > 
> > FanZilla don't work with a LED replacement for the Fan Fail Light.
> > Result: The LED will illuminate at once you install the LED and/or
> connect the battery.
> > 
> > Solution: Only use the original incandescent bulb for the Fan Fail
> Light.




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