From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2119
Date: Thursday, July 15, 2004 10:46 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Removing Rusty Nuts
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Ignition switch replacement
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>

4. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

5. Need help
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

6. LED replacements.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Aircon strained
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

9. Pigeon Forge photos..
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

10. RE: LED replacements.
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Need help
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

12. Re: Need help
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Re: Need help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Road Salt Damage
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Ignition switch replacement wanted !!!
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>

16. Thanks for the Ammo
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

18. Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

19. Radiator replacement?
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

20. RE: No Fan Clip Help
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Anybody need some door lock solenoids?
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Can anyone ID these cars from PF?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

23. Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: Ignition switch replacement
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 14:17:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Rusty Nuts

You are fortunately spoiled by not working on rusty northern (salt-
belt) cars. On the vehicles I just purchased in SC, I'm amazed at the 
condition compared to what I'd expect around here. The hardware on 
the bottom of the 6-year-old truck is still shiny and comes apart 
easily, on a vehicle from around here I'd have been torching/breaking 
everything apart. Deloreans that have been stored in humid barns can 
have the same issues even without the salt. 

FYI - You don't see many Lincolns around here more than about 10 
years old, any that are have large holes in the body. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> You're more than welcome to look under my car: 4 factory original
> rusty studs still intact in the manifolds. Soaked the nuts for a 
week
> or so with penetrating oil, zapped them with the plumbers torch, 
then
> removed them WITHOUT a cheater (isn't room).
> 




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 16:16:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

To bleed the system you really need a pressure tester. You fill the
header bottle all the way up and then pressurize the system. You don't
have to pump it all the way up to 15 psi, just enough to hold some
pressure. Now you crack the bleeder screw and loosen the small bleeder
line on the radiater. If the hose on the radiater is old and hard
don't try to force it off. Cut it with a razor blade and replace it
before you bleed. The other way is to use a vacuum extractor and pull
a vacuum on the system and let it pull the coolant in. I have done it
and although you "could" skip bleeding afterward, I do it anyway but
there is hardly any air left to get out. A small amount of air will be
expelled under normal operation from the radiator. I do not have an
auto bleeder on my car but I know the system is tight. The auto
bleeder will only mask the symptoms of a leaky system. Once the system
is bled it isn't necessary to ever do it again unless the system leaks
and you need to add coolant or you drain and flush it. BTW you should
only use a national branded permant type anti-freeze and mix it 50/50
with water. It should be changed every 2-3 years and /or checked for
acidity.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Regarding bleeding the air.
> My cooling fans worked very intermittently and whenever they desired.
> It took me several months of people telling me my fans weren't
kicking on 
> because of a bad ground. I should replace all my wiring, I should
buy new 
> relays, or I had a bad otterstat and every other crazy.. I had an air 
> bleeder hose already on my car.
> FINALLY, somebody suggested I bleed the air out right at the
radiator AT THE 
> RADIATOR..
> I did it, the fans have worked every time since..
> Thanks and here's to those who have fan problems.
> 
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 
> >From: tobyp_at_dml_k...
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
> >Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:22:09 -0000
> >
> >Bill - This is something that many owners and mechanics don't seem to
> >be aware of, and that is that the radiator *must* be bled as a
> >separate step.  The air in that end of the car will rarely find its
> >way out through the engine compartment self-bleeder.  And, as you
> >hint in your post below, doing this task is not that much fun.  There
> >was a thread some time ago about people's favorite flavors of
> >antifreeze that they enjoyed (in the face) during the radiator bleed
> >operation.  For this reason, check out part number K1017DP for the
> >radiator, which is also part of our improved self bleeder kit K1012DP
> >on the DPNW website.  Bleeding air out has never been so easy and
> >clean!
> >
> >Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> >DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> >www.delorean-parts.com
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
> >wrote:
> >Never realized how prone the stock configuration was to trap air,
> >even with a vaunted self bleeder, until I helped two other owners
> >before/after Pigeon Forge refill their systems. Radiator simply would
> >not bleed unless you cracked that hose -- great fun with an OEM
> >plastic nipple.
> > >
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 19:40:25 -0000
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>
Subject: Ignition switch replacement

Hello,everyone,

I just dismanteld my ignition switch ( 10 66 79 ). Is there somebody 
that already replaced this part with another part. The switch itself 
is still ok, but I reallly need to replace both the copper parts.

Kind regards,

Frank Lommen
dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl
V.I.N. : 006183




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 20:44:33 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

On Wed, 14 Jul 2004 04:03:16 -0000, ryanpwright wrote:

>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>> I'd just like to say thank you, as I replaced my AC panel bulbs with
>> LEDs this evening, and thanks to having seen your message, avoided
>> having to troubleshoot an extra issue.  (I have the SpecialTAuto dual
>> fan fix 2x2, which is similar to FanZilla)
> How would one go about making an LED appear to be a normal bulb, so
> that a BA7s LED could be used in place of the fan fail bulb and not
> cause problems with the SpecialTAuto 2x2? An inline resistor, perhaps?

For the FanFix 2x2 you don't need to do anything, it should just work.
With a FanZilla using an LED-replacement doesn't work,
prbably because of the currentdraw being too low...

Although "gzapf" wrote that the Fan Fix 2x2 is similar to the FanZilla,
it most definately is NOT, neither in function, price or construction.

FanZilla incoprporates a bunch of "fancy electronics" to stagger the
fans on and off with a deley, so the drop in power is less noticeable
on the engine. FanZilla also recreates the Cooling Fan Fail function
by lighting the light when one of the fans apears toe be malfunctioning.

With John's Fan Fix 2x2 I have no experience, but from some
correspondence with him a long time ago and going by the
pictures on his website the "2x2" is 2 relays in a box with
a separate powerlead straight from the battery, thus bypassing
several feet of extra wire and the Circuitbreakers.

I can't see for sure from the picture, but maybe the 2x2 doesn't
even connect to the warning light at all??? Best would be to
inquire with John himself; it's HIS product...

If you really want an LED and have a FanZilla you COULD put
a resistor (120ohms I believe) in PARRALLEL with the bulb to
increase the currentflow, but for a light that should never
light, why replace it with an expensive LED???

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 15:50:39 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Need help

I took my car in to get a state inspection today.
The car failed from what the mechanic says was that both
tie rods are worn out. Looking at the car the passenger side
is ok. The only problem was is that the drivers side tie rod
is missing the rubber bushing. Even though the car did not have 
one in the last time it went for inspection, and it passed. And it was at
the 
same shop. When driving home it would not go into 5th gear. All the
other gears are fine. It would eventually when i double clutched.
Sitting in the garage it will not go in 5th at all. What could be wrong
with the tranny? It drove in there fine and came out a mess. But the shop
said
that they didn't drive the car far. Another annoying thing was that they
managed to 
loose 2 lug nut caps. Which they said were already missing. So I know
they are lying.

MT



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 09:02:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: LED replacements.

I've received a couple of emails "off-line" asking
about the trunk, engine compartment and interior light
LED replacements.

These are called "festoon" bulbs. Many sites don't
tell you what bulbs they replace; instead they give
you measurements for determining which size you need.

I got mine from DeLorean Motor Center.  

First, you must realize that there is hardly an LED
out there that is as bright as an incandescent. 

Given that, here is my take:

Trunk:  This light has never been bright enough for
any real use.  I merely wanted to get it lit for show
and not run down the battery.  For that, the
replacement is fine.

Engine compartment:  I have added a second light,
identical to the original and located it on the
driver's side, balanced with the stock light.  The two
lights equipped with LEDs are only slightly brighter
that the single light, but they do bounce nicely off
the chrome which I recently added.  

Interior:  Definitely not as bright, but, again, great
for shows.  I never could read a map with the existing
bulbs and I carry a small flashlight just for that
purpose (and, when looking for something in the trunk
or checking the engine in the dark.

The light emitted is almost blue/white, much like the
newer HID headlights.  VERY cool when showing off your
car.  

There is no doubt that brighter LEDs are on the way
and that they will be quite expensive.  These will do
nicely for me until those LEDs are more reasonable.  

Size:  I BELIEVE the trunk/engine compartment are
39mm.  The interior are shorter and I believe you
would look for replacement of incandescent 211.  

FWIW, I have no experience with LEDs provided by
others.  They may even be better or cheaper.  I only
know I am happy with what I installed. 

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 14:10:12 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Aircon strained

If you really meant 500 PSI that would likely create leaks where none 
ever existed. That's quite a bit over any design parameter for the 
system. Ken Koncelic insists that he's done this without all the 
following steps, but if you try it his way there are a couple of 
screws that you can't find unless you know exactly where they are. 
The following is more the "normal" way. 

I've r&r'd a couple of evaporators now, it's not a fun project. 
---disconned the heater lines and the freon lines outside under the 
car (thru the gas tank access panel in the trunk, actually)
---remove right hand knee bolster
---Above the hvac box, remove the flap assembly that's way to the 
right. In there are three nuts that hold the heater box to the car 
(they are just above the fan). 
--remove the console
--loosen the radio cluster and pull it back away from the dash 
--reach-around from the driver side and disconnect the blue cable 
from the temperature knob assembly.
--remove the bracket under the HVAC box 
--pull the whole assembly out of the car. 
--the HVAC case splits into two parts, the Evap is in the right-hand 
part. (IN (Ken's) THEORY) you can remove the right half from the car 
without removing the left half, but I have not quite figured out how. 
Once you have that part separated, it further splits in half to 
reveal the evaporator. You can't pull the bottom off in-place because 
there is one screw that is in the middle of the assembly that you 
can't get to until the main box is in two parts. 

Let me know if pictures would help, I have one of these in pieces on 
my storage-room floor. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> My DMC aircon system had been put under great pressure... 500psi I
> think..... seemed fine after being regassed but then nothing.... 
turned out
> to be empty and when nitrogen was pumped in to find a leak the high 
& low
> and pressure switches were the overiding culprits at thishad failed.
> 
> Having replaced both switches at least one more leak remains.  The 
rubber
> hose which outputs near the high/low pressure switches when covered 
with my
> finger shows that some airflow is coming through from the evorapator
> assembly.
> 
> How do I get into the evaporator assembly as the screws if I 
remember
> correctly need to be done from above and the workshop manual is not 
very
> helpful on this one....





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 15:48:59 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

When I installed LEDs for turn signals in my 1998 Malibu, it would 
cause them to flash very fast as a warning that I had a bulb out.  
The problem was that they weren't drawing enough current to make the 
module think I had a working bulb.  The easy fix for is kind of 
stupid, and defeats the purpose of having LEDs in the first place.  

I'll put up some calculations here with examples so it makes it easy 
for you to see how to calculate this on your own.

What is the wattage of the original BA7 bulb?  I have no idea so 
let's just say 5W.  So:

I = 5W/12V = 417 mA

How much current does the LED draw?  Let's just say it's 50 mA.  

417 mA - 50 mA = 367 mA

So, I'm willing to bet if you make your LED circuit draw an 
additional 367 mA or so, it will work.  How can we do this:

R = 12V/367mA = 32 Ohms

So find a resistor that is approximately 32 Ohms and can dissipate 
about (12V*12V)/32ohms = 4.5W.  Put this in parallel with your LED.  

If you find the exact power requirements of the BA7 bulb, then you 
can redo the calculations above to find out what you need.

Hope this helps.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> How would one go about making an LED appear to be a normal bulb, so
> that a BA7s LED could be used in place of the fan fail bulb and not
> cause problems with the SpecialTAuto 2x2? An inline resistor, 
perhaps? 
> 
> -Ryan





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 12:43:46 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Pigeon Forge photos..


I didn't take alot of photos - only a few on the Dragon Run:

http://www.eskin.net/photos/pf2004/

The two panoramic shots are the same, just the first one is smaller to better view the entire image if you click on the image.

-Hank
#1619

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 15:44:20 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: LED replacements.

People ask me all the time for the Festoon bulbs, and no they are not as 
bright.
They are also very white and look weird since we are used to the yellow 
light.
Also, you can easily turn the interior lights off.
I am going to add the festoon bulbs to my website soon for those of you who 
want
them for display purposes. I can get colors as special orders.
- Videobob


>From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>CC: Dan Botkin <danielb649_at_dml_aol.com>
>Subject: [DML] LED replacements.
>Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 09:02:54 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I've received a couple of emails "off-line" asking
>about the trunk, engine compartment and interior light
>LED replacements.
>
>These are called "festoon" bulbs. Many sites don't
>tell you what bulbs they replace; instead they give
>you measurements for determining which size you need.
>
>I got mine from DeLorean Motor Center.
>
>First, you must realize that there is hardly an LED
>out there that is as bright as an incandescent.
>
>Given that, here is my take:
>
>Trunk:  This light has never been bright enough for
>any real use.  I merely wanted to get it lit for show
>and not run down the battery.  For that, the
>replacement is fine.
>
>Engine compartment:  I have added a second light,
>identical to the original and located it on the
>driver's side, balanced with the stock light.  The two
>lights equipped with LEDs are only slightly brighter
>that the single light, but they do bounce nicely off
>the chrome which I recently added.
>
>Interior:  Definitely not as bright, but, again, great
>for shows.  I never could read a map with the existing
>bulbs and I carry a small flashlight just for that
>purpose (and, when looking for something in the trunk
>or checking the engine in the dark.
>
>The light emitted is almost blue/white, much like the
>newer HID headlights.  VERY cool when showing off your
>car.
>
>There is no doubt that brighter LEDs are on the way
>and that they will be quite expensive.  These will do
>nicely for me until those LEDs are more reasonable.
>
>Size:  I BELIEVE the trunk/engine compartment are
>39mm.  The interior are shorter and I believe you
>would look for replacement of incandescent 211.
>
>FWIW, I have no experience with LEDs provided by
>others.  They may even be better or cheaper.  I only
>know I am happy with what I installed.
>
>Dick Ryan
>VIN 16867



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 21:55:47 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Need help

This is the same old sad song I've heard over and again.  You take 
your DeLorean into your mechanic and it comes out worse.

Your tierod boots aren't that hard to replace.  They cost about $4 
each from Grady and there's only one screw to loosen.  Of course, if 
this boot was never there, you may have to replace the tie rod itself 
as dirt and grime can mess up that ball joint.  Check to see if the 
ball is pitted.

I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have managed to replace my 
radiator, rebuild the brakes and replace those tie rod boots (among 
other repairs).  It really isn't that hard to do and you know you 
won't be giving your car sub-standard treatment or taking it 
for "short" joy rides.

I have an automatic, so I'm not versed with the 5-speed!

Johnny
5518



> I took my car in to get a state inspection today.
> The car failed from what the mechanic says was that both
> tie rods are worn out. Looking at the car the passenger side
> is ok. The only problem was is that the drivers side tie rod
> is missing the rubber bushing. Even though the car did not have 
> one in the last time it went for inspection, and it passed. And it 
was at
> the 
> same shop. When driving home it would not go into 5th gear. All the
> other gears are fine. It would eventually when i double clutched.
> Sitting in the garage it will not go in 5th at all. What could be 
wrong
> with the tranny? It drove in there fine and came out a mess. But 
the shop
> said
> that they didn't drive the car far. Another annoying thing was that 
they
> managed to 
> loose 2 lug nut caps. Which they said were already missing. So I 
know
> they are lying.
> 
> MT




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 01:13:53 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Need help

As far as 5th gear, it may be the cables going from the shifter to the
transmission got screwed up somehow. You can adjust how far left and
right the shifter is, it seems that it is too far to the right, so it
hits the console side instead of having more room to get into 5th. See
if the shifter sits different in first and reverse, and see the
workshop manual to see how to readjust the cable. Also check your
clutch fluid, perhaps that is a cause. Your tie rod ends have a rubber
protector around it filled with grease. If it's missing this rubber
then it will definitly wear out soon. Replace them both, it's not
worth the risk of damage and failing-which will definitly lead to a
crash. For an inspection here in New York, the shop shouldn't drive
your car-only from where you left it in their lot-to the lift in the
shop-and back to a parking spot. The previous owner of my car told me
once at the shop- they lost his Drivers side power mirror!!!Give me a
break-these guys lie all the time. I always stay at the shop until my
car is ready to insure nothing happens to my car and no mechanic goes
out to pick up his lunch or go for a joy ride in my car. Anway, breath
easy-if it was an internal transmission problem the transmission
wouldn't work at all. For it to be intermal something would have had
to exploded or ground out, if this was the case there would be metal
objects floating around and getting inbetween the other gears-bang and
clinking. Dani B. #5003
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> I took my car in to get a state inspection today.
> The car failed from what the mechanic says was that both
> tie rods are worn out. Looking at the car the passenger side
> is ok. The only problem was is that the drivers side tie rod
> is missing the rubber bushing. Even though the car did not have 
> one in the last time it went for inspection, and it passed. And it
was at
> the 
> same shop. When driving home it would not go into 5th gear. All the
> other gears are fine. It would eventually when i double clutched.
> Sitting in the garage it will not go in 5th at all. What could be
wrong
> with the tranny? It drove in there fine and came out a mess. But the
shop
> said
> that they didn't drive the car far. Another annoying thing was that
they
> managed to 
> loose 2 lug nut caps. Which they said were already missing. So I
know
> they are lying.
> 
> MT




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 02:30:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Need help

I wonder if there is really anything wrong with the tie rod ends. I 
would replace the missing boot and lubricate. Make sure there is no 
play and check the steering rack. As for the "missing" 5th gear 
lubricate the linkage and adjust it as per the Workshop Manual. Check 
the level in the clutch master cylinder and make sure the slave is 
not leaking. If you still have the plastic line replace it with the 
brained metal one. Keep a spare pivot bolt in the glove box.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...> 
wrote:
> I took my car in to get a state inspection today.
> The car failed from what the mechanic says was that both
> tie rods are worn out. Looking at the car the passenger side
> is ok. The only problem was is that the drivers side tie rod
> is missing the rubber bushing. Even though the car did not have 
> one in the last time it went for inspection, and it passed. And it 




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 21:06:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Road Salt Damage

(The reason you don't see any Lincolns up there is because now they're
all sitting in my driveway).

- My DeLo came from Philadelphia PA.
- 4 of my 5 Lincolns came from KY/MD/MD/NY.
- Gave my little brother an AMC that survived *MICHIGAN* (special note
to the List: if you want a car that can truly make it up north, sell
your DeLo and buy a 1981-later AMC).

I know ALL about road salt. Live with it every day.

Only metric car I've ever worked on is the DeLo. Grade 5 fasteners
seem to survive much better than grade 8.8. May be because coarser
thread pitch is usually used. Fasteners are larger too (5/16" minumum,
3/8" and 9/16" more common -- roughly equivalent to 10mm, which just
happens to be the exhaust stud that started this thread...). 

Road salt is preferrable to beach salt. Car is at least not exposed to
it year 'round, and damage is limited to wherever the wheels can sling
it. Beach salt is airborne. Gets into the tiniest nook & cranny. Will
totally eat up an electrical system, from one end to the other, even
inside the dash. I'm willing to resurrect road salt cars. I refuse to
buy a beach car.

Part of Martin's problem is that 4 foot long cheater. If a fastener
isn't going to turn with a foot or so, guarantee 4 feet will snap it
off! Before he resorts to the gorilla handle, should try more heat. If
MAPP gas doesn't do it, he'll have to move up to acetylene. People
don't like to spray down a fastener before heating it because of the
smoke. But I think all that bubbling and boiling helps to break it loose.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> You are fortunately spoiled by not working on rusty northern (salt-
> belt) cars. On the vehicles I just purchased in SC, I'm amazed at the 
> condition compared to what I'd expect around here. The hardware on 
> the bottom of the 6-year-old truck is still shiny and comes apart 
> easily, on a vehicle from around here I'd have been torching/breaking 
> everything apart. Deloreans that have been stored in humid barns can 
> have the same issues even without the salt. 
> 
> FYI - You don't see many Lincolns around here more than about 10 
> years old, any that are have large holes in the body. 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 21:57:43 -0000
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>
Subject: Ignition switch replacement wanted !!!

Hello,

is there anyone who ever had to replace a defectieve ignition 
switch ? I dismanteled mine, and lost a small copper part. I'm 
looking for a similar switch, to replace the internal parts of the 
deLorean Switch !!!!

Kind regards,

Frank Lommen
dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl
www.dmc12.nl




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 23:05:58 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thanks for the Ammo

I decided to post this to the list... as there was quite a bit of 
help both on and off the record.  As for the DeLorean... I have 
decided to wait 2 years... heck I waited ever since I was 10 (when I 
started saving for it), whats another 2 years.  I will only be 23.  
(currently only 21).  What I will do (not to get on the subject) is 
to buy that Fiero which does need a little bit of work, and for 2 
years restore it to pretty good shape, that way I will gain the 
skills I need to be ready for whatever the DeLorean in the future 
might need.   Basicly the ammunition I needed was justification in 
the sight of my Father.  I am old enough to buy whatever I want.   
Its just that he would be so happy if I bought a 15 passenger van, 
not a little 2 seater.

I already own a small sports car (convertible), and its really fun, 
but I havent really needed to work on it a whole lot.  Since its 
yellow I learned pretty quickly to slow down, got my first ticket 
when I was 16, lost my license on the day of my 17th birthday.  Man 
that was pretty bad.  Got plenty of tools and the experience is what 
a good ole boy like me needs.

Thanks for all your wonderful advice.  I am slightly disapointed at 
my recent decision, but its better if I do it this way, mabye I can 
learn a little by a few of your mistakes by buying the car early in 
life.  That can be a hardship, especialy if you have to take a loan 
out to purchase the car.  If you sent me an email privately I will 
reply. 

Tom Porter
"Live The Dream" for me :+)




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 04:15:15 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

I did not even attempt to replace that bulb, due to being aware of an
issue with FanZilla and an LED there... the SpecialTAuto 2x2 might
work with an LED just fine, but I saved myself the trouble of finding
out.  Given that it's a light that is only on every once in a while, I
wasn't concerned about the heat or current draw.  Further, the red
LEDs behind the red text looks very similar to the bulbs, and I didn't
notice much visible difference.

To owners of the SpecialTAuto fan fix 2x2: I can't confirm that
there's a problem with using an LED for the Fan Fail light.... I just
suspected that there may be one because there is a clash with the
FanZilla.

The other followup does a good job explaining the reason LEDs can
cause problems and the math behind it, and most LED auto bulb
suppliers also carry resistors made for that issue.  In certain cases
in the DeLorean though, current draw isn't the only reason to go with
LEDs... heat from a door bulb partially melted a lense (before I owned
it), and I've read that the AC panel's printed patterns begin to
deteriorate with the heat of the bulbs.

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> How would one go about making an LED appear to be a normal bulb, so
> that a BA7s LED could be used in place of the fan fail bulb and not
> cause problems with the SpecialTAuto 2x2? An inline resistor,
perhaps? 




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 05:52:37 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

The light activates when the fans activate on the 2x2, rather than
indicate an actual failure / problem like the FanZilla does.

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I can't see for sure from the picture, but maybe the 2x2 doesn't
> even connect to the warning light at all??? Best would be to
> inquire with John himself; it's HIS product...




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 06:04:08 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Radiator replacement?

OK, how do I replace my radiator?

It's shot. Upper plastic hose connection broke off tonight trying to
bleed it... and I was careful with the thing! Stupid plastic piece of
junk. Yes I'm mad, a sudden stream of coolant to the face will do that
to a person. I'm going to smack it around a bit when I get it out.
Teach it a thing or two. 

I've got a new one on the way. Nice brass from DPNW. Now, I have to
learn how to replace this thing. I can tell you, it doesn't look like
fun. I'm already dreading the weekend.

Any advice?

-Ryan




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 00:35:33 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: No Fan Clip Help


I have not had one hit on a replacement fan clip that holds the fan on!

Does this mean that this is my unique problem and I will need to forge ahead 
on new ground finding a replacement alternative? As I had said in my 
original email there does not seem to be availability from any of the 
DeLorean suppliers.


Cecil Longwisch
#10663



>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Does anyone know where I can get the clip and roll pin that holds on
>the cooling fan blades? I lost one of mine on the way home from Pigeon
>Forge.
> > I thought no problem, Houston has them listed as available, I'll
>order a couple for spares. After I ordered them online I received a
>note back with the rest of my order shipment saying neither was
>available any longer from them.
> > Trips to the very poor local auto stores here in Jacksonville were
>fruitless. I have a box of roll pins myself but this must be a metric one?
> >
> > Although I am not overheating with one fan I would feel better with
>two here in the summer heat of Florida.
> >
> > Cecil Longwisch
> > #10663



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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 06:01:55 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Anybody need some door lock solenoids?

Just wanted to plug myself here and say I've got 2 door lock 
solenoids on e-bay.  Both are 100% working, as I just tested them 2 
days ago.  If yours are shot, here's a chance to pick a set up for 
very little.  I have 'em set at $1.00 each with no reserve.  Some 
very minor rust on each of them, but both in great shape overall.  
Pictures tell the story.

E-bay item numbers: 7911150919 & 7911151119  

Matt
#1604




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 05:46:34 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?

I saw a few shots of cars with spoilers / wings mounted to their
fascias...  I'd like to ask the owners what they bought / did, and how
happy they are with the mods.  Can anyone hook me up with e-mail
addresses or websites for the owners of these:
http://www.deloreans.org/images/dcs04/Wing1.jpg
http://www.ncdmc.org/PigeonForge/pages/IMG_3166_jpg.htm

Thanks,
--Greg




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 09:34:14 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

Well, it finally happened. My engine has failed. Starts ok, runs fine,
exhaust is clean. However, she is drinking coolant like a fish. She
was running hot, and needed to be topped off last Friday with a half
gallon of water. Drove her Saturday & Sunday, and her coolant bottle
is empty again. 2 months ago, her oil was "chunky", and the breather
cap is clogged with what looks like turkey gravy. Now, the dip stick
is covered in crap, and looks to have water on it. Most fun of all,
there are NO puddles under the car. I don't know how accurate a
pressure test would be, since I can already see coolant on the top of
the block, behind the water pump.

Worse yet, I suspect that this motor has blown a headgasket at some
point in it's life. I only have 3 bolts per side holding the exhaust
manifolds onto the heads. And I'm even missing studs from the heads as
well. Not broken off from what I can see. Just missing.

So, it looks like a rebuild is nessisary, and I do have some
questions. My local junkyard has an Z7W PRV from an '88 Premier, and
I've been thinking about using it to swap out my motor. What I'd like
to do is take the Premier short block, and mount the DeLorean
crankcase, oil pan, and heads to it, so that I can retain the stock
motor mounts, and the K-Jetronic fuel injection system. Add to that,
the Premier's timing chain cover, and I can utilize the conventional
distributor, and not have to customize anything. And the exhaust as
well, until I can change it out.

Now, here are my questions.
1. Is there any reason that the Premier's distributor wouldn't work
with the stock DeLo engine computer? All it should care about is
reading pulses to fire the ignition coil. But, the pattern in which
they are delivered has changed, along with the firing order.

2. Same question as above, but as it pertains to the tachometer.

3. Would I use the DeLorean, or the Premier water pump for this
application?

4. Are there any other PRV heads that are interchangable with this
block, that will also accept K-Jetronic incase mine are damaged?

5. Are the timing chains interchangable?

6. Will the A/C compressor accept the serpentine pulley if I decided
to utilize the Premier's serpentine drive belt?

7. Is there any possible reason that this wouldn't work?

As usual, thanks in advance to everyone. If I needed to retain the
odd-fire crank and cams, I have no problem doing so (but I don't know
just how far the engine components are interchangable). And I'm trying
to keep this job as easy, and as inexpensive as possible, which is why
I would rather bolt things together, than rebuild them. As equally
important as money, I need to get my car back out onto the road as
soon as possible. But if possible, I'd also like to try and plan ahead
to have a motor with a little punch to it, for possible performance
upgrades that I'm looking at, for down the road.

Thanks again!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 14:21:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?

Yellow one is Ron "Gullwing Magazine" Wester. It's part of a kit that 
used to be commonly available, they still come up from time to time. 
The other one belongs to a Minnesota owner, and it's entirely home-
made including the stainless spoiler on the back. It's been on that 
car for at least 20 years. 

Sorry not very helpful but a start. 

Dave S

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I saw a few shots of cars with spoilers / wings mounted to their
> fascias...  I'd like to ask the owners what they bought / did, and 
how
> happy they are with the mods.  Can anyone hook me up with e-mail
> addresses or websites for the owners of these:
> http://www.deloreans.org/images/dcs04/Wing1.jpg
> http://www.ncdmc.org/PigeonForge/pages/IMG_3166_jpg.htm
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 05:31:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition switch replacement

I've taken the lock side of the iginition switch
apart, but I'm not familiar with what parts you are
asking. Are these copper pieces on the
electronic/switch side of the unit?



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