From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2120
Date: Thursday, July 15, 2004 2:12 PM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Radiator replacement?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Radiator replacement?
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. RE: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. RE: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. RE: No Fan Clip Help
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 14:54:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Radiator replacement?

Relax: I replaced one in an IHOP parking lot at Pigeon Forge -- it
isn't that bad.

Question: are you looking to save your freon? Determines whether the
condensor comes out with the radiator or stays in the car. Is a small
pain reaching the upper mounting studs, but can be done (and there are
only 2). Fans stay in the car.

Radiator itself is only held in by those 2 brackets on the bottom and
the 2 diagonal braces. Unbolt the fans and scoot them back, unbolt the
condensor if necessary, remove those brackets and braces, then the
radiator will drop more or less straight down. 

FWIW: My bleeder nipple broke off too. Repaired it as follows:
- Drilled and tapped the side channel all the way through for 1/8" NPT.
- Inserted a fully threaded brass nipple all the way through the side
channel. Nipple has a small hole drilled in the side to access the
radiator bleed channel. Threads are sealed with gasket adhesive (not RTV).
- Closed the front side of the nipple with a pipe cap
- Put a new brass 5/16" hose barb on the other end of the nipple
- Overlayed the whole repair with multiple layers of JB Weld
Works like a charm, but I do need to replace my radiator before the
side channels themselves fail. Am living on borrowed time until then.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> OK, how do I replace my radiator?
> 
> It's shot. Upper plastic hose connection broke off tonight trying to
> bleed it... and I was careful with the thing! Stupid plastic piece of
> junk. Yes I'm mad, a sudden stream of coolant to the face will do that
> to a person. I'm going to smack it around a bit when I get it out.
> Teach it a thing or two. 
> 
> I've got a new one on the way. Nice brass from DPNW. Now, I have to
> learn how to replace this thing. I can tell you, it doesn't look like
> fun. I'm already dreading the weekend.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> -Ryan




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 15:09:04 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Radiator replacement?

Actually, Ryan, it's not too difficult.  You will want to remove the 
air shroud from around the fans and the air dam (the part that 
contains the metal screen).  Be careful doing this.  Many of these 
bolts are usually rusted and will snap off easily.  Use WD-40 or 
liquid wrench the night before on them.  In fact, use it on all of 
nuts and bolts.

You need to remove the two upper bracket mounts that are attached 
from the crumple tube.  The driver side can be hard to unscrew 
because it's hard to see, so just take your time.

Disconnect the other hoses, (If you haven't drained the system, now 
is a good time).  Unscrew the two large bottom nuts on the radiator.  
I ended up removing the lower brackets because the horns have to come 
out anyway.

There are also four small screws that attach the A/C condenser to the 
front of the radiator.  I removed this before I took out the radiator 
and just kinda set it off to the left of the car without removing the 
hoses.

You can remove the fans after you get the radiator out.  Just make 
sure you unplug them beforehand.  Also, the fans are grounded on the 
crumple tubes on those upright brackets.  It's a good idea to clean 
that area up.

One more thing, the brass radiator is a bit thicker than the stock.  
You might run into the problem of the pipes being a bit closer to the 
radiator connections.  What I did was to loosen the clamps on the 
hoses that are a couple feet back.  I then pushed the pipe further in 
so there was more clearance at the radiator.

Just remember to take your time and when you get frustrated, just go 
inside the house and forget about it for a little while to clear your 
mind.  I did that SEVERAL times!

It took me 16 days to do my system, but I didn't rush it and it came 
out better than I expected.

Johnny
5518


> OK, how do I replace my radiator?
> 
> It's shot. Upper plastic hose connection broke off tonight trying to
> bleed it... and I was careful with the thing! Stupid plastic piece 
of
> junk. Yes I'm mad, a sudden stream of coolant to the face will do 
that
> to a person. I'm going to smack it around a bit when I get it out.
> Teach it a thing or two. 
> 
> I've got a new one on the way. Nice brass from DPNW. Now, I have to
> learn how to replace this thing. I can tell you, it doesn't look 
like
> fun. I'm already dreading the weekend.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> -Ryan




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 15:23:38 -0000
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

Robert,

          I am currently going thru the same thing. I purchased my 
car off of Ebay and it showed up with a blown motor. I looked into 
using an Eagle powerplant, After looking at the engine section of 
www.projectvixen.com i decided not to do that. I actually purchased a 
motor from the parts section of dmcnews.com, If you go to 
www.dmc12.com there is 1 motor for sale. Just a thought. Also if all 
you need is a good short block mine is still ok. Contact me off list. 
Good luck.




                                      Austin
                                      vin #16162




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 09:56:04 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

Greg, All we do is turn on the light, any 12 volt+ led will work.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com






-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 10:15 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"


I did not even attempt to replace that bulb, due to being aware of an
issue with FanZilla and an LED there... the SpecialTAuto 2x2 might
work with an LED just fine, but I saved myself the trouble of finding
out.  Given that it's a light that is only on every once in a while, I
wasn't concerned about the heat or current draw.  Further, the red
LEDs behind the red text looks very similar to the bulbs, and I didn't
notice much visible difference.

To owners of the SpecialTAuto fan fix 2x2: I can't confirm that
there's a problem with using an LED for the Fan Fail light.... I just
suspected that there may be one because there is a clash with the
FanZilla.

The other followup does a good job explaining the reason LEDs can
cause problems and the math behind it, and most LED auto bulb
suppliers also carry resistors made for that issue.  In certain cases
in the DeLorean though, current draw isn't the only reason to go with
LEDs... heat from a door bulb partially melted a lense (before I owned
it), and I've read that the AC panel's printed patterns begin to
deteriorate with the heat of the bulbs.

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> How would one go about making an LED appear to be a normal bulb, so
> that a BA7s LED could be used in place of the fan fail bulb and not
> cause problems with the SpecialTAuto 2x2? An inline resistor,
perhaps?



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 09:53:52 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

When the AC clutch or the otterstat activates the system to power the
cooling / radiator fans I show that by luminating the consol light. Just
cover up the word fail. This way you can see how much or how many time the
fans are being cycling.
Several things cause them to cycle so many times, so it helps isolate the
problem if there is one.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 11:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"


The light activates when the fans activate on the 2x2, rather than
indicate an actual failure / problem like the FanZilla does.

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I can't see for sure from the picture, but maybe the 2x2 doesn't
> even connect to the warning light at all??? Best would be to
> inquire with John himself; it's HIS product...




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 09:48:06 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: No Fan Clip Help

 Cecil, Just saw your email. I have what you need.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Cecil Longwisch [mailto:dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 10:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] No Fan Clip Help



I have not had one hit on a replacement fan clip that holds the fan on!

Does this mean that this is my unique problem and I will need to forge ahead

on new ground finding a replacement alternative? As I had said in my 
original email there does not seem to be availability from any of the 
DeLorean suppliers.


Cecil Longwisch
#10663



>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Does anyone know where I can get the clip and roll pin that holds on
>the cooling fan blades? I lost one of mine on the way home from Pigeon
>Forge.
> > I thought no problem, Houston has them listed as available, I'll
>order a couple for spares. After I ordered them online I received a
>note back with the rest of my order shipment saying neither was
>available any longer from them.
> > Trips to the very poor local auto stores here in Jacksonville were
>fruitless. I have a box of roll pins myself but this must be a metric one?
> >
> > Although I am not overheating with one fan I would feel better with
>two here in the summer heat of Florida.
> >
> > Cecil Longwisch
> > #10663



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