From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2121
Date: Friday, July 16, 2004 6:43 AM

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Anyone need a turbo engine?
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

3. Re: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

4. AC Systems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. DELOREAN SAFTY
From: Justin T Gryder <JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU>

6. Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: My results with L.E.D.s
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

8. Delorean's for sale
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Phones out at DMC (Texas)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

10. Re: DELOREAN SAFETY
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>

13. Re: Delorean's for sale
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

14. Re: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

16. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. RE: DELOREAN SAFETY
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 16:15:47 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

I'd bet that you'll come out money ahead just replacing the engine 
completely. Used "parts car" engines are beginning to show up fairly 
often, and usually seem to sell for less than $1000. Sometimes lots 
less. If you can get one that you are sure was running within the 
past 2-3 years you'd save a lot of aggravation compared to a rebuild. 
Having run it that long with water in the oil you can be sure that 
the bearings and everything else inside that moves is probably toast 
at this point. 

You really only need the long block anyway, assuming that your 
current ignition and injection systems are fine. 

Trying to build up a composite Eagle/DMC engine can be done, but 
that's a whole 'nother science project. Nothing against it if you are 
motivated that way, but if you are just looking to get the car 
running again I'd be thinking used engine swap. Anything involving 
mixing and matching is likely to have a long-term adjustment cycle 
after the swap is completed. 

This could also be a good opportunity for a DMCH upgrade, I don't 
believe that they care whether or not your old engine is 100% 
functional. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Well, it finally happened. My engine has failed. Starts ok, runs 
fine,
> exhaust is clean. However, she is drinking coolant like a fish. She
> was running hot, and needed to be topped off last Friday with a half
> gallon of water. Drove her Saturday & Sunday, and her coolant bottle
> is empty again. 




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 15:31:31 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Anyone need a turbo engine?

Hi All,

I've listed a complete and running 1981 DeLorean engine, which was removed
from VIN #3872 at 33,000 miles.  The owner of that car simply wanted to
replace everything on his beautiful car -- engine, transmission, brakes,
suspension, steering, etc., with all new components from DMC Houston, and a
turbo-modified engine was not part of his plan. 

The engine only needed exhaust gaskets, but otherwise started and ran very
strong and well.

I obviously can not box and ship this engine, but I can palletize it for
pickup.  You may also pick up this engine in Pittsburgh, PA.  I will sell
you (and ship) the turbo compents separately, but only if you purchase the
whole engine.  I am losing my garage space and this must go.

It should be complete and includes the items shown in the photos.  Please
email with any questions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7911263026>
&item=7911263026
 
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:38:30 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Fan Zilla vs. BA7 LED "Fan Fail Light"

On Wed, 14 Jul 2004 15:48:59 -0000, "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote:

> What is the wattage of the original BA7 bulb?

The replacements I got myself a while ago (incandescent) were 1.2W,
so 0.1 A of current, so around 120 Ohms of resistance.

> So, I'm willing to bet if you make your LED circuit
> draw an additional 367 mA or so, it will work.

You have to take into account that LEDs have a threshold and that
below that threshold they will NOT light. So IMO it would be better
to put a resistor in parrallel that is able to draw the full needed
current. When the light actually lights a slightly higher current
is drawn, but I believe this will be within the abilities of the
other hardware, as incandescents also have a  bit of "play" to
account for manuafacturing differences...

But the most simple solution is to just keep THAT (or those) light
with a bulb, replacing the HVAC-lights IS worth the effort (and cash).

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:00:10 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: AC Systems

Group, 
Just thought I would let ya'll know as we say in Texas that I have 
added a lot of AC products to the web site that may be hard for some 
to find. If there is something I have left out then please let me 
know or if there is something you need let me know. Items include 
Connectors, Oil's, pressure switches, adapters and naturally 
compressors and more. I can get all products for R134A, but R12 is 
beginning to go out of stock.
If the link doesn't work then it's under my cooling page. Naturally 
click on the image to enlarge.
John Hervey  
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 15:46:23 -0400
From: Justin T Gryder <JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU>
Subject: DELOREAN SAFTY

I was reading a magazine article today about the top cars of all time for 
safty and found myself wondering if anyone has ever died in a Delorean or 
Delorean related wreck?  Anybody know?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 18:44:27 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?

The homebuilt stainless wing and other items belong to Paul Cierney 
(hope I spelled that right) from Minn. I've seen him at several 
events, and his car is always the easiest to find. Just look for the 
DMC flags. I don't think Paul is on the list?


Hope that helped you out.

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 12:12:14 -0400
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: My results with L.E.D.s

I am very happy with the L.E.D. set that Video Bob has taken the time to
research and put together.  Each light is actually a circular cluster of
5 little LED's, and looks awesome- very similar to the shape of the old
light bulb.  

In fact I had replaced them on Saturday morning before the car show.
Then I left the doors open during the whole show with the lights on.  I
showed up at ~8am, and the car was there until about 4pm.  The battery
gauge never even dropped!  Then I popped out one of the lens covers and
touched the LED- while still one- after it had been on for 8 hours.  It
wasn't even hot!

BTW, I am the one person that had the defective LED (for some reason
only 3 LEDS would light up).  Bob was very easy to work with, and
replaced the LED right there at the show.

Jason


-----Original Message-----
From: Video Bob [mailto:videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 1:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com
Subject: Re: [DML] My results with L.E.D.s

Thanks for the support.
I am proud of my research on these.
I have a bucket full of other lights I have bought from every
manufacturer 
looking for the best combination of performance and price.

Brighter is not always better.
I just tried out some new bulbs that have come to markey that are
supposed 
to be
twice as bright as the ones I sell, but cost 33% more each.
I tried them out and in my opinion the one's I already sell look better.

One day, these lights will be cheaper than anything and will be common,
but until then I am proud to be the first one to sell them as a kit.
I have sold about 100 sets of these to happy Delorean owners so far,
that is 600 bulbs. Out of those 600 only one bulb was defective which I 
replaced.
Pretty good numbers.

As far as leaving the doors up, you could leave these lights on for
weeks at 
a time
without making a real dent in your battery.
A full day or two at a car show is nothing.....

A lot of people have asked for LED's for the running lights too, and I
have 
yet
to find any that are satisfactory looking.
The light needs to be equal or brighter than the original incandescent
in 
order to
make it worth doing.
Unlike your house, where electricity is billed it makes no difference
how 
much
power your running lights use when the car is running.
Also, you would not normally have these lights on when the car is on 
display.
The reflective properties of the lenses require light from all sides to 
light up the
whole lens. Just like a flashlight.
There are now LED's that have lights pointing forward as well as all
around
(like a pinecone) that will simulate this.
Now, these are still not as good as a real bulb but look pretty good.
The downside is that a regular bulb costs about $1 or so and will last
for 
many years.
The LED will cost somewhere in the $30-$40 range for the same thing.
However, if you did replace all of your running lights with LED's then
you 
could
leave your doors up with the running lights on all day with almost no 
effect.

I am working on this, and will let everyone know when I find what I am 
looking for.
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:47:16 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Delorean's for sale

Group, I just had a person in Ohio call about 2 Deloreans he has for 
sale. When I ask him about rust he avoided the question about saying 
just normal. When I pressed futher he didn't know and acted like he 
was hiding something. He also said that he was going to put them on 
Ebay so I asked what he wanted for the cars and again he said the 
best price. I then told him he would have to have a price for Ebay 
and he still wouldn't say. So if this comes up in the future, 
Remember vin #531 and #537. They both have been sitting, the are 
both automatic with black interiors and as we know the fuel system 
will have to be reworked.  Again, He avoids details about them.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


  




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 12:25:14 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Phones out at DMC (Texas)

Our Sprint supplied local and toll-free service has gone out today,
apparently a widespread problem here in Houston today. Cell phones, DSL, all
out for an unknown period of time.

In the interim, please feel free to order online at:

http://www.delorean.com/dmcstore/viewdir.asp

or email us direct (our cable modem is fine):

Warren warren_at_dml_usadmc.com

I'll post again when we are back up to speed!

James Espey


------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.719 / Virus Database: 475 - Release Date: 7/12/2004




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 14:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY

There was a DML member who died several years back in his. The details were very bad and I don't want to upset anyone by passing along the specifics, but that is the only one I can think of. I was in a very serious wreck in my first DeLorean and walked away from the crash. Go here to see pics of my car:
http://www.dmcnews.com/mydmc.html
After my ordeal and hearing of others crashes in their DeLoreans I feel it's safe to say the DeLorean is an extremely safe car, even by today's standards. I think it's biggest downfall in todays world is it's size. I don't even want to imagine a head on collision between a DeLorean and a Hummer or Excursion. My collision was with a very large '81 Cadillac Fleetwood by the way (drunk driver).

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


--- Justin T Gryder <JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU> wrote:
I was reading a magazine article today about the top cars of all time for safty and found myself wondering if anyone has ever died in a Delorean or Delorean related wreck?  Anybody know?



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 16:40:55 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?

Well, the first car, the stainless one, is that of Dave Cerny of Minnesota. 
He built that wing himself along with all the add ons. I had the pleasure of 
speaking to him about the fabrication of those parts for about 30minutes in the 
parking lot. Fascinating the way he made those scoops and things. The other 
car, the yellow one, belongs to Ron Wester of Mid State DMC, Kentucky or Ohio I 
think. I don't know as much about his car, but rumor has it, those scoops were 
parts for a Gen 1 Mustang. Hope that helps.

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC 10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 21:19:59 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Can anyone ID these cars from PF?

Dave is correct... the Yellow D has a universal style wing that was 
actually mounted on the car backwards when we got it.  Previous owner 
did a lot of things a$$ backwards.  Anyway, the mounts that hold the 
wing were custom made and are about 2.5 times taller than the 
originals.  This got it up out of the rear view mirror but not so 
high that it would look like a Super Bee.  The most difficult thing 
about a wing mounted on the louvre is the struts will not support it 
well... that is until I got some of the struts Don Steger sells.  
Dont know what magic Don has put in them but they definately are 
stronger than others I tried.

It took some time to get used to the different look but I have grown 
to like it.  Some day I hope to try one of the wings off of this 
site... http://www.lotusespritworld.co.uk/EHistory/WingsWheels.html

Check it out, a Lotus style wing couldnt help but look good on a D.
Maybe a future article!!

Ron


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yellow one is Ron "Gullwing Magazine" Wester. It's part of a kit 
that 
> used to be commonly available, they still come up from time to 
time. 
> The other one belongs to a Minnesota owner, and it's entirely home-
> made including the stainless spoiler on the back. It's been on that 
> car for at least 20 years. 
> 
> Sorry not very helpful but a start. 
> 
> Dave S
> 

[moderator snip]



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 22:23:22 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Delorean's for sale

Reminds me of the time I was on the phone with the previous owner of 
my car, and when I asked him about frame rust, he replied with "I 
believe the frame to be very solid."  

This of course meant, 2 rusted out holes in the rear crossmember, 
rusted sway bar, control arms, motor mounts, transmission mounts, 
fuel tank plate, trailing arm bolts, and just about every other 
steel bracket and bolt on the car.  

Be sure when buying a DeLorean, that only answer you accept from the 
previous owner is "Yes, the frame has no rust and I will put in 
writing that I will fix every last bit of rust on the car free of 
charge if you find any." Or of course, see it with your own eyes.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Group, I just had a person in Ohio call about 2 Deloreans he has 
for 
> sale. When I ask him about rust he avoided the question about 
saying 
> just normal. When I pressed futher he didn't know and acted like 
he 
> was hiding something. He also said that he was going to put them 
on 
> Ebay so I asked what he wanted for the cars and again he said the 
> best price. I then told him he would have to have a price for Ebay 
> and he still wouldn't say. So if this comes up in the future, 
> Remember vin #531 and #537. They both have been sitting, the are 
> both automatic with black interiors and as we know the fuel system 
> will have to be reworked.  Again, He avoids details about them.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:03:30 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.


I have a few long blocks if anyone is interested

Ken



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 18:56:44 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

Rob,

Sorry to here about your engine.  

Bob Brandys




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:45:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

Hi Robert, I'll take a stab at a few of your
questions:

--- therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> 
> Now, here are my questions.
> 1. Is there any reason that the Premier's
> distributor wouldn't work
> with the stock DeLo engine computer? All it should
> care about is
> reading pulses to fire the ignition coil. But, the
> pattern in which
> they are delivered has changed, along with the
> firing order.

The Eagle's distributor won't work because internally
it has no triggering mechanism (no points no magnets).
 Inside the Eagle distributor ('88,89,90)is only a
rotor that fit onto the end of the cam.  The eagle
determines when to fire by use of a crank mounted
angle sensor.
> 
> 2. Same question as above, but as it pertains to the
> tachometer.

Same problem too.  Without the crank trigger system,
there's nothing telling the coil to fire or signal a
tach.
> 
> 3. Would I use the DeLorean, or the Premier water
> pump for this
> application?

You'd probably want to use the Delorean's as the
Eagle's is a serpentine belt (might be possible to
change pulleys)  You'd also have to change crank
pulleys.  Switching over to the Eagle's serpentine
system might be easier, but I don't know about
clearance (pulley to muffler)
> 
> 4. Are there any other PRV heads that are
> interchangable with this
> block, that will also accept K-Jetronic incase mine
> are damaged?
> 

I'll need someone else more familiar with the K-jet
applications.  My understanding of the PRV's is that
the heads will fit on any PRV block, but the Heads and
Intakes have to stay together.  In other words, you
could bolt D heads to an Eagle block, but you have to
use the D intake.  You cannot however bolt the D's
intake to the Eagle heads.


> 5. Are the timing chains interchangable?

I've never heard otherwise.
> 
> 6. Will the A/C compressor accept the serpentine
> pulley if I decided
> to utilize the Premier's serpentine drive belt?

Likely will, but never tried it.  (Anyone?)
> 
> 7. Is there any possible reason that this wouldn't
> work?

As I mentioned above, the ignition system is probably
the biggest challenge.  It's a tricky puzzle when you
start considering the interdependencies of
heads/intakes, cams/cranks/ditributors. 

> 
> As usual, thanks in advance to everyone. If I needed
> to retain the
> odd-fire crank and cams, I have no problem doing so
> (but I don't know
> just how far the engine components are
> interchangable). And I'm trying
> to keep this job as easy, and as inexpensive as
> possible, which is why
> I would rather bolt things together, than rebuild
> them. As equally
> important as money, I need to get my car back out
> onto the road as
> soon as possible. But if possible, I'd also like to
> try and plan ahead
> to have a motor with a little punch to it, for
> possible performance
> upgrades that I'm looking at, for down the road.
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 


I think you'll be hard-pressed to get anyone to agree
that building this sort of hybrid is going to be your
easiest or cheapest solution.  If you're looking for
something different, it probably can be done with the
right combination of parts, but the easiest and
cheapest route would be to either locate a used D
engine or even a volvo unit.  For my conversion I used
a '91 Eagle and kept it completely intact, adding an
aftermarket computer (Electromotive TEC3) to run the
ignition and fuel.  Got the engine from a salvage yard
($200 and only 20k miles) but the computer was the
real cost, $2,200.  It was neither easy nor cheap, but
it is different, and now I have a more modern, EFI,
3.0liter, even-fire, higher compression,
electronically tunable PRV.  I'm no PRV expert, but
I'd be willing to answer any questions you may have
and I do have an '88 eagle engine on a stand in my
garage so I can check that out if you have any
specific questions, or need pictures or anything.

P.S.  The '91/92 Eagle engine is much improved over
the '88-90.  (New water pump design and ALL new style
sensors, etc.) So if you're thinking about going with
the EFI, you definitely want a '91/92 version.

Hope some of this helps,


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 



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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 01:21:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor.

Under most circumstances any way you go in doing things different 
than "stock" will end up costing you more than trying to replace or 
rebuild your motor. The "best" advice woud be to get a used motor but 
you have to always wonder about it's history and condition. It is not 
all that hard or expensive to rebuild your motor assuming it is not 
completely wasted. More than likely a head job may get you going 
again. Some simple tests beforehand can give you a good indication of 
the extent of the damage. I would drain the oil and refill with 
fresh. Drain out the coolant and do a compression test. Now fill with 
water and test again watching the coolant level for bubbles. If you 
ran the engine for a long time with coolant in the oil you may have 
damaged the bearings so run the motor and check the oil pressure. If 
it is low you probably damaged the bearings which would require a 
complete rebuild. When you get the heads off you will be able to see 
if you damaged the liners. Luckily you can replace a liner and not 
have to junk the block. In all cases you will have to flush the 
cooling system to remove all traces of oil to prevent damaging the 
replacement engine. The fastest way would be to get an engine from 
one of the venders. It might be the most cost-effective route too, 
they aren't that expensive when you figure what the parts and labor 
will run you to get your old one going. You could still sell your old 
engine for soemthing to defray part of the cost.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Well, it finally happened. My engine has failed. Starts ok, runs 
fine,
> exhaust is clean. However, she is drinking coolant like a fish. She
> was running hot, and needed to be topped off last Friday with a half
> gallon of water. Drove her Saturday & Sunday, and her coolant bottle
> is empty again. 2 months ago, her oil was "chunky", and the breather
> cap is clogged with what looks like turkey gravy. Now, the dip stick
> is covered in crap, and looks to have water on it. Most fun of all,
> there are NO puddles under the car. I don't know how accurate a
> 




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 15:39:15 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: DELOREAN SAFETY

There was a barge captain that lived near the Mississippi River in Iowa
(near Guttenberg?) that was killed in his DeLorean many years ago(10 - 15?).
Someone crossed the centerline and the two cars did the "jig" rather than
the DeLorean taking the right shoulder and ditch if required.  The resulting
impact was a side impact.

On side impacts, death is often caused by the neck snapping rather than the
head impacting the side of the car (that old mass & momentum thing again).
As legend has it, DeLorean used a gullwing door design to get more side
impact protection (beside the gullwing got lots of media attention).
Regardless, it does not protect from neck snapping injuries.

So in cases like this, regardless of the vehicle, you are better off taking
the right ditch than risking a side impact.

I heard this from the officer who was investigating the crash and stopped me
to get some measurements.   And that's all I know.

Nick

-----Original Message-----
From: Justin T Gryder [mailto:JUSTIN.GRYDER_at_dml_DUKE.EDU]
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 1:46 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DELOREAN SAFTY


I was reading a magazine article today about the top cars of all time for
safty and found myself wondering if anyone has ever died in a Delorean or
Delorean related wreck?  Anybody know?



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