From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2123
Date: Saturday, July 17, 2004 2:08 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: More on LEDs
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

2. Engine cover bracing
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

3. Deep Cycle
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

5. DeLoreans for sale (was: Re: I am ready to buy a DeLorean)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

6. Re: Delorean's for sale
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

7. Re: DELOREAN SAFTY
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: DELOREAN SAFETY
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

9. Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_angwin.us>

10. Re: More on LEDs
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Some intresting web sites!
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Warning lights
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Door Seal
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

14. RE: More on LEDs
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Door key won't turn
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

17. Re: Engine cover bracing
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

18. Parts for sale
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

19. Re: Delorean's for sale
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

20. Re: DELOREAN SAFETY
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

21. Re: Door key won't turn
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

24. Re: Deep Cycle
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

25. Anyone know who's car?
From: alistair vanstone <pastyman_at_dml_talk21.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:32:24 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: More on LEDs

Good idea, Pete. I'd buy one. I don't even have an engine compartment
light. No idea if my car didn't come with it, or if it was removed, or
what.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_M...> wrote:
> Here's a suggestion for the vendors playing with LEDs:
> 
> I would love to have much better built-in illumination for my engine 
> compartment. In addition to being not-very-bright, the stock engine 
> compartment light is obviously too low to be very useful when you are 
> replacing your water pump on a rainy evening at the side of the 
> interstate :-).
> 
> How about somebody coming up with some kind of a lightweight strip of 
> downward-pointing LEDs that could be mounted on the engine compartment 
> lid such that it would bathe the engine in uniform, white light?
> 
> --Pete Lucas
>    VIN #06703




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:36:15 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Engine cover bracing

Question for the list,

My engine cover brace is useless. The cover itself is slightly cracked
above the brace, ostensibly from the brace being used. Allowing that
brace to hold the cover up results in significant bowing, so I use a
piece of angle iron placed toward the rear of the car instead.

Is this par for the course? Is there a fix?

Thank you,

-Ryan





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 21:19:58 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Deep Cycle




Hi everyone. Sorry to bring this up again, but I need to know some things.
Ok. I am going to be running a lot of lights and sound equipment in my D. I 
dont think a
reg battery is a good idea. I would like to know if a deep cycle battery 
would work in my car,
and if anyone has tried this before.
I do know that the cold cranking amps arnt very high, but I dont need this 
because I dont
drive the car in the winter. So what type of battery is going to be the best 
for my needs?
Thank you!!!

Dustin
006746

_________________________________________________________________
Donít just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:46:45 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!

I was interested in getting these strut mount reinforcements also.  
Bob, are you saying you don't need to remove the stainless rear 
quarter panel to install them???  I have my rear quarter trim panel 
removed, but I don't see any place that the strut mount attaches.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Newbie,
> 
> I install PJs  reinforcements in my Time Machine,  The trick is to 
> remove the interior panel and then cut out the silicone that is 
covering 
> up the hole to the back of the strut stud.
> 
> Once you remove this material, it is fairly easy to install the 
bracket. 
>  It is a major improvement.
> 
> 
> BOB




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 17:25:30 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: DeLoreans for sale (was: Re: I am ready to buy a DeLorean)

Aaron wrote:

>I am keeping an eye on dmcnews.com, hemmings, cars.com and
>autotrader.com.  I would prefer to purchase from within the community
>though, as those cars usually have more traceable history to them.  I
>am located on Long Island in New York if that helps for regional
>people.

Most everyone knows that we sell refurbished cars with warranties, but you
may not know that earlier this year we also started selling "used"
DeLoreans, as well.

These are either consigned cars that we know from having worked on them or
cars that we have purchased, serviced and are making available for sale.
Since we started this in March or so, we've made 10 cars available from
$7,500 up to $26,000. Most all have sold within two or three weeks of being
listed (one sold within hours!). Two have now gone to England, and one each
so far to Georgia, New York, Arizona, Illinois, Florida and Texas.

At this time there are two cars available, both automatics, one gray and one
black (VIN 4233 and VIN 2210, respectively) priced at $15,000 and $19,000. I
expect to be listing a low mileage, two owner, early black manual (VIN
00928) sometime next week.

http://www.delorean.com/sales.asp

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.719 / Virus Database: 475 - Release Date: 7/12/2004




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 23:15:11 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean's for sale

> -----Original Message-----
<snip>
> So if this comes up in the future, 
> Remember vin #531 and #537. They both have been sitting, the are 
> both automatic with black interiors and as we know the fuel system 
> will have to be reworked.  Again, He avoids details about them.

Both vin 531 and 537 were DOT cars according to DMC corporate 
records. I'm not sure what the DOT used the cars for or what they 
did with them after their use.

           Knut





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 23:23:40 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN SAFTY

The Ace Frehley story is true, after leaving KISS he went on a self 
destructive trip.....wrong way on a one way road and a police 
chase....He was eventually caught and the officers asked for 
autographs upon arresting him ofcourse.....I can attest to 
this ....just look at my screename....Big KISS fan here




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:35:41 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> There was a DML member who died several years back in his. The 
details were very bad and I don't want to upset anyone by passing 
along the specifics, but that is the only one I can think of.
<SNIP>

Details of the crash can be found in the back issue archives here:
http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/nov99files/dmcnews%20digest4601-
4620.htm

There was some debate here on about whether or not to post pictures 
of the wrecked car, and some thought that it was rather macabre to 
even think about that. All we know is that the driver died later at 
the hospital as a result of the injuries he sustained. No word was 
ever mentioned of the passenger, and I've always been curious as to 
exactly what kind of injuries the two people involved sustained. I'd 
be willing to bet that the driver wasn't wearing a seat belt.

http://www.wreckedexotics.com has a set of pictures of a wrecked D, 
that does have roof damage, a cut top, bent steering wheel, and some 
blood stains inside. But since it does have some rear damage, it may 
not be the same one. But since I wasn't there, I don't know how the 
scene was played out. Damage is mainly in the left side of the car, 
and the steering wheel looks to have been impacted while it was 
turning right. The driver here was hit pretty hard. May not be the 
same exact car, but it still, this one is interesting to look at. I 
know that one DML member has seen the car. Can we get confirmation?

For all of the pics we can get of our cars in piles of parts, torn 
apart, and completely rebuilt, wrecked ones are pretty rare. And it's 
always interesting to see the final function of what your car can do, 
if not have the piece of mind that you'll survive...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:36:24 -0000
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_angwin.us>
Subject: Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!

I had the same problem last August when I replaced my struts with 
DMCH ones that were a wee bit too long. James sent me a set of 
shorter screw-on ends which fixed the problem, but not before the 
drivers side bracket broke. 

I purchased the Grady Bracket, and I too puzzled on how to get the 
backing plate easily installed inside the pontoon. 

In the end, I just used the old undamaged stock backing plates that 
were already there. I may have had to drill them out so that the 
rivets could be installed too. I have not had a problem with them 
since!

Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ramblinmike68kd" 
<ramblinmike68kd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello- I just bought my first Delorean and have spent the last 
three
> weeks replacing the clutch, radiator, hoses, tie rod ends and all 
of
> the struts.  I have done several of the recommended upgrades to the
> electrical system like the cooling fan upgrade and installing a
> lockzilla.  I still have MANY things to work out and need advice.  
The
> lower door strut supports on my car have become SEVERELY bent by 
the
> struts.  I ordered a set of thicker mount from PJGrady only to find
> that my car doesn't have the 'production' mounts.  The guy from
> PJGrady told me that I have to install the inner brackets inside 
the
> fiderglass to install the stronger mounts.  Has anyone done this
> upgrade before?  Any suggestions?  Thanks, Mike.




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:00:18 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: More on LEDs

Believe it or not, I was looking into this, but when the cover is closed it 
gets so hot it might melt the lights! ...and of course you would have to run 
wires to this custom installation.
Most people don't want to do all that.
However I am working on some idea!
- Videobob


>From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] More on LEDs
>Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 10:01:53 -0400
>
>Here's a suggestion for the vendors playing with LEDs:
>
>I would love to have much better built-in illumination for my engine
>compartment. In addition to being not-very-bright, the stock engine
>compartment light is obviously too low to be very useful when you are
>replacing your water pump on a rainy evening at the side of the
>interstate :-).
>
>How about somebody coming up with some kind of a lightweight strip of
>downward-pointing LEDs that could be mounted on the engine compartment
>lid such that it would bathe the engine in uniform, white light?
>
>--Pete Lucas
>    VIN #06703
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:40:38 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Some intresting web sites!

Hey all, It's been a while since I posted but I found 2 websites that
I think some of you Delorean restorers may find very valuable. I
havn't used them yet....but I am planning too. 
The first site is called eMachine Shop (http://www.emachineshop.com/).
This site is really cool. You download their free CAD program and
install it on your PC. You then design any part that you can imagine
with it. After you finished the program will give you an instant price
on what it will cost to make, if you want it you just then process the
order. This would be great to re-create some of those hard to find or
non existant parts for the D that you may need (Tranny gears and such
come to mind). Check out the site, they have a TON of manufacturing
process such as Mill, Laser cut, Plastic injection, etc.. I've heard
of a few people who have used them to manufacture some motorcycle
parts for them and have had great results.

The second site is called Pad2Pad (http://www.pad2pad.com/). This is
another site for any electronic nut. It's the same as eMachine shop
where you download their CAD program but this is used to design any
type of blank circuit board you want or a circuit board with
components. This is great to either rebuild some circuits in the D or
to create some neat electronic parts for the D.

I hope this helps some people.

Steve




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 01:58:27 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Warning lights

I have put approximately 13k miles on my car since I got it running.
The odo read 21,268 when I bought it. I drove it in erratic bursts for
3 months with the speedo broken as its reliability varied. I gave it
one oil change so I estimate 3k miles. The odo now reads 29,988 and it
runs wonderfully.

Today I had to drive to Annapolis to pick up a pair of glasses. First,
I parked next to a derelict DeLorean that some mid-shipman owns and
has parked at the Navy Exchange parking lot. VIN is #1490, if you're
monitoring. Second, My Lambda warning came on because I finally hit
the 30k mark. Third, I was out of gas.

When I came out and started up the car, it was pretty freaky to see
-every single- dash warning light on from seat belts to low fuel, to
Lambda.
In a way, it was kind of rewarding because most of that stuff didn't
work when I bought the car.

Now I have to research how to reset the Lambda counter to turn the
light off.

VIN #1490 is a black, manual with fuel flap and Ital side-stripe. It's
in nice shape if a bit...gnarly from sitting outside for so long.
Again, it's been there for months. If you need help, email me offline.

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 21:23:47 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Door Seal

I replaced the passenger door seal tonight, and now my door wont close
right. The headliner on the door is pushing the seal so it then pushes
down on the roof headliner. Did I do something wrong or miss a step?

Alex Wolf
#4608

 




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:45:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: More on LEDs

Well my festoon LEDs came in the mail today and I installed them in the trunk and engine compartment.I got them from superbrightleds.com. I ordered 2 of the 3910 White bulbs which is the replacement size for those areas. I also ordered a 4211 White to see if a larger and hopefully brighter bulb would work in either location. It would not. When installing the first bulb I must have reversed the polarity and I blew the 10 amp fuse to the door lights. After putting in a new fuse I had no more problems.  The bulbs give off a bluish white light and I agree with others that neither location has enough light for night time use whether you use LEDs or stock bulbs. I also keep a small flashlight for those times I may need real light. The LEDs will be great for car shows. Someone needs to market an LED conversion kit for the inside of the engine compartment
light case which adds 3 more light spaces inside the case. With 4 LEDs in the case maybe it would give off adequate light for night useage. The bulbs I ordered for the AC panel were from another source and they have not arrived yet.
Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:Thanks for the support!
I appreciate it.
I tried so many different bulbs until I found the one's I liked.
I have a box of misc. single bulbs of all the different one's I tried out!

Anyway, I have been out of stock since Pigeon Forge and there were a lot
of people I had to turn away, and several have e-mailed me asking for them.
Well, I finally have a batch coming now, about 20 sets.
These should last about a week or two.
So please get your orders in now so that if I need to order more I will
be able to quickly.

Thanks.
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: Rod Dillman 
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] More on LEDs
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:01:12 -0700 (PDT)
>
>While sitting on the motel room porch one evening at Pigeon Forge, I saw 
>two DeLoreans side by side each with the doors up. I could tell that one 
>had LED bulbs and the other incandescant. It was a great opportunity to 
>take a scientific poll on the two bulbs. I asked my fiance and her mother 
>if they noticed any differance in the lights and if so which they prefered. 
>Without hesitation both picked the LED bulbs as being brighter and more 
>red. The red lights were the only ones that could be seen from our point 
>of view. The LEDs were the ones Video Bob sells and I bought a set the next 
>day. I have since installed them in my doors and really like the fact that 
>I can now leave one or both doors up at car shows. I have ordered LEDs for 
>the AC panel and festoon LEDs for the trunk and engine compartment but have 
>not received them yet. Four of the old bulbs were hard to get out of the 
>sockets but they finally came out(I broke two of the old bulbs) and two 
>came out easily. Polarity is an
> issue with LEDs, if they don't light up, immediately reverse them to 
>avoid damage to the bulb. I see no down side to LED use as replacements in 
>the mentioned locations. I would be interested in hearing if some of you 
>may know of problems with them.




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:09:52 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Door key won't turn

My driver side door sometimes won't unlock properly.  Turn the key to unlock, 
and it hangs up halfway like it was spring loaded. I have to open the 
passenger side and reach across to open it. Moving the door lock rocker switch won't 
work, even doing it repeatedly... it gets hung up also. Lifting the door 
opener lever frees everything. I'll watched it happen with the inner panels 
removed- the bellcrank pops about a quarter inch then it's free. Doesn't seem like a 
solenoid issue since the problem comes and goes. I even totally removed the 
upper and lower inner door panels, the door lock rocker, everything right down 
to and including the plastic vapor barrier. Thought I might see something 
binding. Even with half the bellcrank rods dangling it still did the same. While 
we're at it... sometimes when I close the door, it won't latch shut unless I 
lock and unlock the door first. Maybe a problem with a latch or latches causing 
both?  Any ideas?

Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 23:08:51 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*

Okay, this doesn't make any sense and the noise has become an increasing
source of frustration. Here's what I can tell you about the noise so far and
what I've checked.

It is a popping/crackling sound that occurs every time I step on the brakes
(unless I do it very lightly). The sound does not change, it's a steady rate
of metallic pops/crackles that is constant no matter what speed I'm
traveling. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car.  I've pulled
the brake pads out, inspected the rotors, cleaned everything, and checked
that the rotors spin freely without hanging up on anything.  It typically
only occurs under braking but I heard it briefly while backing up and while
using RPMs to slow down. If I accelerate in first gear but do not shift
(letting the engine slow me down) the sound can occasionally be heard.
Braking is mostly the only way I hear it. Through normal shifting and
acceleration I do not hear it.

I'm thinking it may not be the brakes but why would depressing the brake
pedal make the noise?  The strangest thing about this is that if I shut the
car off while driving and get on the brakes, it will not make the noise.  It
will only make the noise if I get on the brakes while the engine is running.
It does not matter if I'm in any gear or neutral. All four grab evenly and
quietly when the engine is off.

This problem has been bothering the hell out of me, not only is it
embarrassing I'm afraid something else may be wrong. Could it be a problem
with the brake booster? With my limited knowledge in this area I would
appreciate any suggestions anyone could give. Thank you!

Brandon Payne
#2975


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 12:59:45 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine cover bracing

>From what I've seen, the amount of bowing depends on how your engine 
cover hinges are adjusted.  If you have your hinges adjusted so that 
the cover is more toward the front of the car, it will bow more.  As 
you might expect, if you adjust your hinges so that the cover is 
adjusted more toward the rear of the car, it will bow less.  Maybe 
you can find a happy medium.  I know with my car, I couldn't adjust 
it so that it wouldn't hit the rear fascia without it bowing a 
little bit atleast. 

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Question for the list,
> 
> My engine cover brace is useless. The cover itself is slightly 
cracked
> above the brace, ostensibly from the brace being used. Allowing 
that
> brace to hold the cover up results in significant bowing, so I use 
a
> piece of angle iron placed toward the rear of the car instead.
> 
> Is this par for the course? Is there a fix?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Ryan




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 09:03:35 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Parts for sale

I just posted on the DMC NEWS parts for sale a Gray dash mat and a used
Directional Switch (DI) if anyone is interested give me a shout.

Dave Sontos





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 09:51:36 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: Delorean's for sale

I'll bite.  What's a DOT car?

Mark.


 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean's for sale


> > -----Original Message-----
> <snip>
> > So if this comes up in the future, 
> > Remember vin #531 and #537. They both have been sitting, the are 
> > both automatic with black interiors and as we know the fuel system 
> > will have to be reworked.  Again, He avoids details about them.
> 
> Both vin 531 and 537 were DOT cars according to DMC corporate 
> records. I'm not sure what the DOT used the cars for or what they 
> did with them after their use.
> 
>            Knut





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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 09:56:19 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY

I was reading in Dream Maker, about the initial US crash tests, that there
was a problem with the location/placement of the fuel pump... that the crash
damage was minimal and showed that the DeLorean held up very well in terms
of impact damage.
The only real damage was the fact that once hit, the fuel pump apparently
exploded, sending gas all over the interior of the car.

I assume this problem has been fixed, but since it was found in the midst of
the bankrupcy, I don't know what the solution was.

Any ideas?

Mark.




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 13:19:29 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Door key won't turn

Sounds like you're definitely due for a door lock and latch re-
adjustment.  It's outlined in the service manual if you have one.  
If not, it's also found in the technical bulletins on the 
www.dmcnews.com "Technical information" page.  The procedure isn't 
difficult, just time consuming, and I'm about 99% sure it will fix 
all of the issues you mentioned.  One additional step I would 
recommend is to remove the 'Z'-shaped bar that goes to the frontal 
lock.  It makes the job a lot more difficult on some cars when you 
have to adjust this linkage because it flexes so much.  Just remove 
it, the rear lock will do the job just fine of keeping the door 
locked.  
One final tip, make SURE that when you finish doing the adjustments, 
you make sure you don't have any preload on the bellcrank from the 
exterior door handle linkage.  It's easy to leave it pre-loaded and 
think that the job is done.  Hell, the door may even work properly 
the first couple times like this.  Then one day you'll come out to 
your car and you won't be able to unlock it because the locks are 
jammed.

Matt
#1604  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> My driver side door sometimes won't unlock properly.  Turn the key 
to unlock, 
> and it hangs up halfway like it was spring loaded. I have to open 
the 
> passenger side and reach across to open it. Moving the door lock 
rocker switch won't 
> work, even doing it repeatedly... it gets hung up also. Lifting 
the door 
> opener lever frees everything. I'll watched it happen with the 
inner panels 
> removed- the bellcrank pops about a quarter inch then it's free. 
Doesn't seem like a 
> solenoid issue since the problem comes and goes. I even totally 
removed the 
> upper and lower inner door panels, the door lock rocker, 
everything right down 
> to and including the plastic vapor barrier. Thought I might see 
something 
> binding. Even with half the bellcrank rods dangling it still did 
the same. While 
> we're at it... sometimes when I close the door, it won't latch 
shut unless I 
> lock and unlock the door first. Maybe a problem with a latch or 
latches causing 
> both?  Any ideas?
> 
> Wayne A. Ernst
> vin 11174
> Bridgeton, NJ
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 14:02:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*

Now with the symptoms you described it starts to make more sense. 
Pull the "Y" pipe off and check the deceleration valves on the 
throttle plates. I am guessing they are sticky and are not popping 
open. The are supposed to prevent the "popping" noise which is 
actualy backfiring (that's why you hear the sound from the rear, it's 
comming from the muffler). The valves are spring-loaded but if they 
haven't moved in a long time they get gunked up and stick. While you 
are in there use some brake cleaner and wipe out the throat and the 
throttle plates. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Okay, this doesn't make any sense and the noise has become an 
increasing
> source of frustration. Here's what I can tell you about the noise 
so far and





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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 09:34:58 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie Door Strut Help!

Yes,

they install from inside the car. You do not have to take off the SS 
fender .

BOB




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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 15:24:11 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle

Deep cycles aren't made for cars, and aren't the way to go when you're
running lots of equipment. Your battery won't have any effect on
ANYTHING you run (unless you're doing this with the car off for a long
time), it's your alternator you will need to upgrade. Deep cycles are
made for marine applications where frequent recharging and discharging
is constant. A high amp alternator is what you need to seek-Dani B,
5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone. Sorry to bring this up again, but I need to know some
things.
> Ok. I am going to be running a lot of lights and sound equipment in
my D. I 
> dont think a
> reg battery is a good idea. I would like to know if a deep cycle
battery 
> would work in my car,
> and if anyone has tried this before.
> I do know that the cold cranking amps arnt very high, but I dont
need this 
> because I dont
> drive the car in the winter. So what type of battery is going to be
the best 
> for my needs?
> Thank you!!!
> 
> Dustin
> 006746



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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 16:39:55 +0100 (BST)
From: alistair vanstone <pastyman_at_dml_talk21.com>
Subject: Anyone know who's car?

Hi
 
  A work colleague has just returned form his holiday in the States, he took a photo of a DeLorean being trailered by a white Ford Truck,on the US89 from Williams to Grand Canyon
Last digits on the plate look like 655.
Just curious if was anyone's on the list etc?
 
Cheers
 
 Alistair UK
 VIN 11622



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