From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2125
Date: Sunday, July 18, 2004 3:32 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Deep Cycle
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

2. Offering up my "D" for good home
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

3. Re: Re: Door key won't turn
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. 5 speed questions
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. 4 lugs as opposed to five
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Opinions on DMCH's exhaust
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Newly developed problem
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

10. starter solenoid needed
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

11. Re: More on LEDs
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Door Seal
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Delorean's for sale
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. AC Panel LED Installation/Flossing
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Prototype Featured in Latest dw Magazine
From: "Mike Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

17. Re: 5 speed questions
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Opinions on DMCH's exhaust
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

19. Re: 5 speed questions
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

20. Re: DELOREAN SAFETY
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: 5 speed questions
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

22. Re: Deep Cycle
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

23. Re: Re: More on LEDs
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

25. Re: 5 speed questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 15:07:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, Dustin Dewey wrote:

> Hi everyone. Sorry to bring this up again, but I need to know some
> things. Ok. I am going to be running a lot of lights and sound equipment
> in my D. I dont think a reg battery is a good idea. I would like to know
> if a deep cycle battery would work in my car,

I don't think it matters.  For lots of audio equipment, what is important 
is that you have a good alternator.  None of the DeLorean alternators will 
do, so you will have to adapt a high power one to the DeLorean, probably 
by having a custom bracket made.  This isn't particularly hard and most 
serious audio shops will have a pretty good idea what to do here.

The battery just has to be able to handle temporary current draw, which a 
regular battery handles just fine.  If you store the car in the winter, 
you just have to remember to disconnect the battery first.

> and if anyone has tried this before.

Most people find higher than average difficulty fitting aftermarket sound 
into the DeLorean, there's just not much space.  If you mean deep-cycle 
batteries, yes, lots of people use them, but they aren't critical.




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 16:13:09 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: Offering up my "D" for good home

I have the opportunity to purchase a concourse DeLorean and wanted to offer
up my current car first to see if anyone bites on it.  Many of you know I
have had my car for about 8 years now and have done quite a lot of
restoration on it, way too much to mention on here, but rest assured
everything works and the car looks excellent.  I have won the following
awards with it:

 

DCS Cincy: 2nd place

DCS Cleveland: 1st place

DCS PF: 2nd place I was the car on the (trailer all weekend)

 

Pictures can be seen at www.scketmansion.com/delorean but a few of the pics
are pretty old and the car doesn't look best. 

 

This car is in excellent condition and ready to become a daily driver at a
moments notice, it has 53K miles and resides in Tampa Florida, but can be
delivered to reasonable distance by trailer.  It is an 81 grey interior, 5
speed, PJ Grady headliners, new DMC light lenses all around, new powder
coated rims. everything lol.

 

Price is 20k firm.  If you are in the market for a turnkey "D" this is it,
and below the 23K figures we all know well.

 

I can be reached at 813-951-2628 for further questions.

 

Jack Stiefel

www.fmtimemachine.com

Direct listen link: www.live365.com/stations/radiocape

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 17:43:29 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Door key won't turn

In a message dated 7/17/2004 3:10:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu writes:
One additional step I would 
recommend is to remove the 'Z'-shaped bar that goes to the frontal 
lock.  

Thanks Matt-
I read that in the DML tech issues files but wasn't sure if that was the 
issue. I'd hate to disconnect half of my door lock uneccesarily!

-Wayne
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 22:11:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*

Correction- I meant the "W" pipe that connects the throttle body to 
the intake manifold. Once you get it off (it is easy) you can lok 
right in at the throttle plates and the decel valves.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Doesn't sound like the brakes. Did you check for a broken motor 
> mount or bad CV joint?
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Okay, this doesn't make any sense and the noise has become an 
> increasing
> > source of frustration. Here's what I can tell you about the noise 
> so far and
> > what I've checked.
> > 
> > It is a popping/crackling sound that occurs every time I step on 
> the brakes
> > (unless I do it very lightly). The sound does not change, it's a 
> steady rate
> > of metallic pops/crackles that is constant no matter what speed 
I'm
> > traveling. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car.  
> I've pulled
> > the brake pads out, inspected the rotors, cleaned everything, and 
> checked
> > that the rotors spin freely without hanging up on anything.  It 
> typically
> > only occurs under braking but I heard it briefly while backing up 
> and while
> > using RPMs to slow down. If I accelerate in first gear but do not 
> shift
> > (letting the engine slow me down) the sound can occasionally be 
> heard.
> > Braking is mostly the only way I hear it. Through normal shifting 
> and
> > acceleration I do not hear it.
> > 
> > I'm thinking it may not be the brakes but why would depressing 
the 
> brake
> > pedal make the noise?  The strangest thing about this is that if 
I 
> shut the
> > car off while driving and get on the brakes, it will not make the 
> noise.  It
> > will only make the noise if I get on the brakes while the engine 
> is running.
> > It does not matter if I'm in any gear or neutral. All four grab 
> evenly and
> > quietly when the engine is off.
> > 
> > This problem has been bothering the hell out of me, not only is it
> > embarrassing I'm afraid something else may be wrong. Could it be 
a 
> problem
> > with the brake booster? With my limited knowledge in this area I 
> would
> > appreciate any suggestions anyone could give. Thank you!
> > 
> > Brandon Payne
> > #2975
> > 
> > 
> > ---
> > [This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 22:25:26 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 5 speed questions

I am curious, do all 5 speed Deloreans have that clunky not really 
smooth operation between shifting gears or is it just mine? On 
occassion, it is rarher stubborn between shifts.....the car has 
about 300 miles on it if it means anything and I had the tranny 
cable replaced...but I recall the same with the original.
 
Thanks Harry
Vin #2696




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 22:27:58 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 4 lugs as opposed to five

Does anyone know why our cars are 4 lug bolt patterns? Were 5 not 
necessary do to supposed lack of torque? Just curious




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 22:41:01 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Opinions on DMCH's exhaust

Can anyone leave some feedback on what they think of the exhaust 
mod? Sound, peformance etc... The exhaust looks great, but I'd love 
some opinions from those that have it or have seen it. Does anyone 
have a sound byte of it they can share?

thanks Harry
Vin #2696




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 23:19:23 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Newly developed problem

Hello all, I was driving home today when suddenly the last few miles
of my trip I had a new problem develop. 1st & 2nd gear - upon
acceleration it misses and kicks extremely bad, 3-5 gear its fine.
Just put a new fuel pump in, brand new air filter, wires and plugs
done in April, so I really don't know where to begin. It didn't do it
at all for the first 15 minutes of the 20 minute drive-wasn't raining.
Checked my micro switches and the solenoid, everything seemed to be
working fine. so what gives? Also I've been meaning to ask this
question-my fuel gauge always points straight up when I turn the car
on, I've tried 2 senders with the same luck, only the low fuel light
workes...probably the wiring??
Thanks so much for any help! -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 17:10:43 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*




> Doesn't sound like the brakes. Did you check for a broken motor
> mount or bad CV joint?
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>

I thought about the CV joints as the noise is similar, but shouldn't it make
the noise all the time, whether the engine is off or not?  I can brake as
hard as I want while coasting with the engine dead and it will not make the
noise, but if I have the engine running it makes the horrible racket every
time I hit the brakes.

I am going to take David Teitelbaum's suggestion about the deceleration
valves on the throttle plates. If this is the problem, then why does braking
affect it? Like I said, I have limited knowledge in this area so I really
appreciate everyone helping me understand.

The car is also a daily driver and has certainly been driven a lot lately.
Acceleration and braking are fine otherwise, it's weird that this started so
suddenly. Hopefully it's nothing serious, right now it's just embarrassing.

Brandon Payne
#2975


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 01:16:27 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: starter solenoid needed

Anyone got a used starter solenoid?  Mine is about shot.  Are there 
any cross references for this part?  I see them on e-bay for $15 and 
such, but I wasn't certain that I could use just any.  I know it 
would have to be the kind that pushes the gear into the flywheel 
when it activates.

Matt
#1604




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 02:19:26 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: More on LEDs

What are the bulb numbers for the trunk, engine, & interior dome 
lights? I realized I didn't have them. And with the expense of LED 
bulb, I didn't want to order the wrong ones. Does anyone know the 
bulb #s for these?

Thanks for the help.


Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 02:28:38 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seal

Make sure to have it puched ALL the way down and have the proper 
slack moved out of it. Try putting the top part around the door on 
first and then move down. After you get it on slowly test moving the 
door up & down till it closes without catching. My first door I 
changed seals on years ago taught me that. And sometime depending on 
the seal thickness you may half to leave the doors closed for a 
period of time, and maybe in the sun to have it close properly.


Hope that helped some,

Joe


2524 & 16634







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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 02:29:47 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean's for sale

John, where is he at in Ohio? I'm also in Ohio and if close enough I 
mught take a look at them.

Joe  

2524 & 16634






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 19:39:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC Panel LED Installation/Flossing

My Ba7 LED bulbs came today and I just finished installing them tonight. When I took off the AC panel there was an empty hole where the right fan bulb should have been .The other top bulbs were recessed far back in the sockets. The bulb on the top  left side easily pushed through to the back side. I looked up the directions for removing the center console and decided to try another approach.  I put a looped piece of dental floss through the empty hole for the fan bulb and pulled it through the rectangular opening at the bottom of the area. I managed to finger the lost bulb through same hole and tie the dental floss to the back of the socket. Using the dental floss and the "guide it in with the finger approach" I was able to pull the socket back throufh the hole. I had already put in the LED. To my surprise it lighted when I turned on the ignition. I was able to push the top left socket farther out from the back side by going in at the foot well drivers side and again using the light
 finger approach.  Now for the missing top right fan bulb- using a mirror and light I was able to locate it,  put in a new LED and worked it back in to the socket. By now I had replaced all but the top second left bulb. I could find no way to get it closer to the front so I decided to leave the stock bulb in . The three bottom bulbs were easily replaced. I used red bulbs for the Fan Fail and the Lock Doors. 
My last task was to snip off the piece of dental floss as close to the bulb as possible and reinstall the panel cover. By the way if you replace all the bulbs it takes 7 bulbs. I only ordered 6 so I did not have enough bulbs to do the job anyway. I am glad they are installed and it was only a two Band Aid night. 
 



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 03:22:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)

The reason that I chose the Eagle Premier PRV was out of nessesity.
There are only 2 PRV motors here in town, at the junk yards. Vegas
sucks when it comes to being an automotive hobbiest, and this is a
prime example why. It's the same salvage yard that has both PRV's, and
they've never even done a compression test on either one! So who knows
what the condition of the engines are, except to say they're over 91K
miles on the clock. After I ran thru a couple of quick pictures on the
Eagle Premier books, and wiring diagrams that I have here, that too is
when I discovered that there is no pick up for the distributor. Just
as bad, I have no idea what the difference between the crankshafts
are. So even if I could swap heads, and cams, I have no idea if the
connecting rods, and the bearing assemblies will even fit between
Eagle/DeLorean. Another thing was checking the archives, someone had
come up with this idea before, and it was *estimated* that the
compression would result in 9.5:1, or so. I have no idea if that would
result in bad vibrations, with an odd-fire engine.

Currently, the engine runs just fine. No loss of power, oil pressure
looks to be the same, and no decrease in gas milage. Exhaust is clean,
with no smoke, or steam. But the level of oil inside the crank case is
the same. Despite a bad leak from the front main seal. So while I have
not performed any tests on the motor, I don't think that a simple head
job is going to heal my engine. I think that the water jacket has been
compromised between the block, and the cylinder sleeve. As you can
guess, I am very worried about the internal condition of the motor. I
have no clue as to WTF this crap is thats puking out of the breather
cap. And that makes me worried as to what the condition of the oil
passages, pump, and my valve train in general are, let alone my
bearings, thrust washers, and crank. Back when I first discovered this
issue, Warren _at_dml_ DMC Houston told me that due to the description of my
motor, it didn't qualify for a performance upgrade. I could only get a
crate motor installed.  So that hasn't exactly built up any hopes for
salvaging this engine.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 02:14:34 -0400
From: "Mike Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Prototype Featured in Latest dw Magazine

We DMLers have frequent discussions about the history and fate of the DMC
prototype cars.  I am pleased to say that the latest dw magazine (formerly
DeLorean World) has a good article about the current home of one of them.
The current owner calls this car prototype #1.

I liked Sascha Skucek's article, and the photographs of the prototype
contain many fascinating details.

One thing the photos don't show is the cut of the leather on the seats.
Does anyone know of a good picture of the prototype seats?  I am interested
in comparing these to the seats in the VIN 500 DeLorean here in Cleveland,
which has two different seats.

- Mike Substelny





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 07:33:06 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 5 speed questions

You might want to change you manual tranny oil if it is still the 
original. And driving it more would help, any car with that low of 
miles will give you issues like that, both of my cars are real low 
mileage cars, and I have had to just drive them to get all 
the "bugs" worked over. Even though all major systems have been 
replaced, it still needs driven to make it more reliable. The more I 
drive them, the better they perform. So best advice is to start 
driving it, I was keeping my cars ridiculously clean, and low 
mileage, then last year I realized, I can't eat my car to live, & I 
can't take it with me if I die, so I might as well start enjoying 
them. It has been the best decision I have made. My 83 now has 3,000 
miles on it, and I just turned 10,000 on my 81. Almost have all the 
bugs worked out, and they just about run perfect now. I still keep 
them crazily clean & perfect, just now I'm not so afraid to actually 
drive them, and they run so much better with use. As of all the cars 
I have owned, these cars suffer from "underuse" more easily than 
others.

Guess I'm just saying driving it is the best way to make it work 
better in all areas. I remember when you got your car with like 93 
miles on it, since your only at 300, keep on driving it. Let us know 
how it is running once you pass the 1,500 mile mark, bet you'll 
notice a huge difference.


Later, Have fun driving, you only live once!

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 04:28:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Opinions on DMCH's exhaust

On Sat, 17 Jul 2004, spaceace3113 wrote:

> Can anyone leave some feedback on what they think of the exhaust mod?
> Sound, peformance etc... The exhaust looks great, but I'd love some
> opinions from those that have it or have seen it.

It's a little louder than I'd like it.  Be prepared for your car to make a 
lot of noise if you put this exhaust on it.  It will write checks your 
engine can't cash.  :)

I can't really judge its performance, since I got the whole performance 
engine, but it certainly looks like it would flow quite well.  It's all 
mandrel bent, equal length headers, and the muffler flows a lot.  I know 
mufflers can be way quieter without sacrificing flow (the muffler on my 
other car flows a lot more air and is much much quieter), so I'd love to 
see DMCH offer a quieter muffler option.

I have looked, casually, for a quieter muffer to replace it, and may do so 
someday.

Don't interpret this as a bad review.  It's a great exhaust which is 
really well put together.  If you don't mind driving a car that will 
attract quite a bit of attention (okay, quite a bit *more* attention), you 
won't be disappointed.

-andrew



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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 06:39:14 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: 5 speed questions

Ace,

Sounds like the clutch is going.  You should get it fixed asap, they tend to
go quickly after it starts doing that.

Mark.

----- Original Message -----
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2004 6:25 PM
Subject: [DML] 5 speed questions


> I am curious, do all 5 speed Deloreans have that clunky not really
> smooth operation between shifting gears or is it just mine? On
> occassion, it is rarher stubborn between shifts.....the car has
> about 300 miles on it if it means anything and I had the tranny
> cable replaced...but I recall the same with the original.
>
> Thanks Harry
> Vin #2696



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 13:37:06 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY

Very interesting information and probably something we should all 
think about.

The current configuration of the fuel pump and the clamping still 
has a weakness in that the pump can come out because the fuel tank, 
where the fuel pump clamp goes around the rubber boot, is too 
flexible. In a hard frontal impact or probably front side impact the 
boot can probably come off especially if the inspection cover above 
it was broken loose or deformed in some way. I can't tell you how 
many of these fuel pump boots I've seen that are loose or could be 
maneuvered by hand and just slipped off. Until now I have not 
considered the consequences in an accident.

I can think of several ways to anchor the boot as I'm sure lots of 
members can. I believe this is probably a safety issue that we need 
to address.

Send me any suggestions (hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com) and I will accumulate 
and post for the group. I'm sure a practical solution(s) can be 
developed or formulated by one of our innovative vendors.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <mark_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I was reading in Dream Maker, about the initial US crash tests, 
that there
> was a problem with the location/placement of the fuel pump... that 
the crash
> damage was minimal and showed that the DeLorean held up very well 
in terms
> of impact damage.
> The only real damage was the fact that once hit, the fuel pump 
apparently
> exploded, sending gas all over the interior of the car.
> 
> I assume this problem has been fixed, but since it was found in 
the midst of
> the bankrupcy, I don't know what the solution was.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Mark.




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:51:26 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 5 speed questions

Clutch hydraulics on the way hout - you're not releasing the clutch 
fully. The action should be smooth "ckicky". This assumes the linkage is 
all set up and lubricated correctly

Martin

spaceace3113 wrote:

>I am curious, do all 5 speed Deloreans have that clunky not really 
>smooth operation between shifting gears or is it just mine? On 
>occassion, it is rarher stubborn between shifts.....the car has 
>about 300 miles on it if it means anything and I had the tranny 
>cable replaced...but I recall the same with the original.
> 
>Thanks Harry
>Vin #2696
>  
>





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 08:37:50 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle

I disagree about the alternators, John Hervey at www.specialtauto.com 
sells some heavy duty alternators for the Delorean, look for yourself.

Mark V


On Saturday, July 17, 2004, at 02:07  PM, William T Wilson wrote:

> On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, Dustin Dewey wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone. Sorry to bring this up again, but I need to know some
>> things. Ok. I am going to be running a lot of lights and sound 
>> equipment
>> in my D. I dont think a reg battery is a good idea. I would like to 
>> know
>> if a deep cycle battery would work in my car,
>
> I don't think it matters.  For lots of audio equipment, what is 
> important
> is that you have a good alternator.  None of the DeLorean alternators 
> will
> do, so you will have to adapt a high power one to the DeLorean, 
> probably
> by having a custom bracket made.  This isn't particularly hard and most
> serious audio shops will have a pretty good idea what to do here.




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 03:39:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: More on LEDs

The bulb numbers for the trunk and engine compartment are 3910 White. I did not replace my interior dome light so I don't know about it. The 39 is the bulb length in millimeters and the 10 is the width in millimeters. You can measure the dome bulb if it is different from the other two. I ordered a 4211 White hoping that it would fit. It would not. I was hoping that using a a larger bulb would give more light.  I got my bulbs from superbrightleds.com. They cost $3.45 each,the super white bulbs cost $1.50 more than the other colors. Shipping cost was $5.00. If any one can use a 4211 bulb I have one. It was $3.45 also. You didn't ask but the AC panel LED bulb number is Ba7 and it takes 7 of them.I used red for the Fan Fail and Lock Door locations and white for the others. If the festoon bulb does not light when installed,remove it immediately and reverse it to avoid damage since polarity is an issue with LEDs. I blew the 10 amp door fuse when installing  my first festoon. 

Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.coanm> wrote:
> What are the bulb numbers for the trunk, engine, & interior dome 
> lights? I realized I didn't have them. And with the expense of LED 
> bulb, I didn't want to order the wrong ones. Does anyone know the 
> bulb #s for these?
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524 & 16634



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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 14:01:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Odd chatter from brakes *update*

If the noise is deceleration noise as Dave T suggests I would also 
expect it to occur when you rev the motor. When you run the motor up 
to 3-4,000 RPM and let off the gas you would hear the noise.

If the noise stops when you disengage the clutch then I would look 
for something in the drive line or motor mounts. I suggest applying 
the parking brake and investigating the movement of the motor and 
trans assembly with the car in reverse. This should simulate to some 
extent deceleration in gear. With the car running, gently start to 
engage the clutch first in reverse then in first gear. Repeat 
several times and observe the movement of the engine. This will be 
hard to observe alone and usually takes more than one person to do.

I'm focused on drive line because the deceleration valves sticking 
are very rare.

Another thing occurred to me. I once had the muffler brace above the 
alternator break. The broken piece was still on the muffler mount 
and because of the rust, etc. on the brace, the broken piece would 
move but only with some force. When I slowed the car it would move 
forward and hit the alternator fan blades and cause all kinds of 
racket. When I took off the noise went away. I looked right at the 
broken piece several times before I realized it was broken and 
discovered the source of the noise.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > Doesn't sound like the brakes. Did you check for a broken motor
> > mount or bad CV joint?
> >
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> 
> I thought about the CV joints as the noise is similar, but 
shouldn't it make
> the noise all the time, whether the engine is off or not?  I can 
brake as
> hard as I want while coasting with the engine dead and it will not 
make the
> noise, but if I have the engine running it makes the horrible 
racket every
> time I hit the brakes.
> 
> I am going to take David Teitelbaum's suggestion about the 
deceleration
> valves on the throttle plates. If this is the problem, then why 
does braking
> affect it? Like I said, I have limited knowledge in this area so I 
really
> appreciate everyone helping me understand.
> 
> The car is also a daily driver and has certainly been driven a lot 
lately.
> Acceleration and braking are fine otherwise, it's weird that this 
started so
> suddenly. Hopefully it's nothing serious, right now it's just 
embarrassing.
> 
> Brandon Payne
> #2975
> 
> 
> ---
> [This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 16:57:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 5 speed questions

I think what you are describing has more to do with your individual 
technique than the particular car. It SHOULD have a tight, clunky, 
quality to it if you are popping the clutch. The Delorean has a tight 
drivetrain so You can feel every shift if you are not doing it 
smoothly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I am curious, do all 5 speed Deloreans have that clunky not really 
> smooth operation between shifting gears or is it just mine? On 
> occassion, it is rarher stubborn between shifts.....the car has 
> about 300 miles on it if it means anything and I had the tranny 
> cable replaced...but I recall the same with the original.
>  
> Thanks Harry
> Vin #2696




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