From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2129
Date: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 8:55 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Re: Coolant color purple - what is it?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Re: Shift Points
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

4. RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

5. RE: delorean_at_dml_gmail.com email address available on ebay
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

6. What do you recommend?
From: "George DeLorean" <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

8. Re: Coolant color purple - what is it?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

10. Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: danwest_at_dml_ufl.edu

11. RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

12. Re: Re: Tempremental starting Problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. 1981 delorean for sale turbocharged southwest michigan
From: "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Shift Points
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Moving Accelerator Pedal While Starting
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Fuel Pump Boot
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: 1981 delorean for sale turbocharged southwest michigan
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. My leftover stuff on EBAY!
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>

22. Red/blue wire near instrument cluster?
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

23. Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay
From: danwest_at_dml_ufl.edu

24. RE: Red/blue wire near instrument cluster?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 06:05:53 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)

Negative. I have yet to perform a compression test on the engine yet.
Something that I am loathing. Not because it's difficult, but because
It's gonna be a pain with 3 cylinders that have cross-threaded
sparkplugs.

It's interesting to hear about those Volvo head gaskets, vs. Renault.
I've suspected for some time now that the engine blew it's headgaskets
at some point in the past. The missing exhaust studs from the heads,
and the sloppy, leaky rocker cover gaskets. After comparing this to
another DeLorean engine, I've discovered that I have different engine
codes. For those interested, here they are (I hope yahoo doesn't f*x0r
the ASCII here).

Engine Plate/ID Tag:
___________
|154    740|
|          |
|000006287 |
------------

And here is the info stamped into the LH head. Note: if it appears
between 2 *'s, that means it was stamped upside down. And the letter
"P" is within a circle.

9 8 81	*0766*103121 P*38* 8D

What's most interesting about this is the serial # on the ID tag. The
build # is lower than my VIN. If it were higher, I coudl definetly
understand that. But this just seems fishy... If anyone has access to
engine codes, it would be great to confirm this.

I'm not really afraid to tearing into the motor. Granted though, I've
never torn an engine apart before. But having a Chrysler Service
Manual written on how to service/overhaul the PRV, has really
bolstered my confidence. Add to the fact that it's written in English,
points out certain problem areas, and has lots of clean, legible
pictures! :) But space is just limted to do the job. Classic car owner
+ apartment dweller are not the idea combination for situations such
as this.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:13:58 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Coolant color purple - what is it?

"purple ice" is a coolant additive that is supposed to keep temperature
down.  I'm not sure how much it changes the color of the coolant though,
you don't add very much.

Jim

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:00:12 -0000 "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> writes:
> Its most likely just the coolant itself. Coolant isn't limited to the
> greenish color, they come in a wide variety of colors. You will see
> reds, blues, greens, yellows, and so forth. Same for transmission
> fluid, usually you see red, I've used green, etc. Go to a parts 
> store
> and check out their coolants and related products, see if you can 
> see
> anything with the same color your describing. Dani B 5003-
> > 
> >  
> > > The coolant came out a grayish purple. I have not seen that 
> color 
> > in 
> > > coolant before. What really amazed me was how clean and nice the 
> 
> > > pipes were inside, the best I've ever seen on a 
> long-term-stored, 
> > and 
> > > even many driven, cars. 
> > > 
> > > Does anyone have any idea what this stuff is? It is not the blue 
> 
> > BMW 
> > > type, it was more the color of thin grape juice. I'd really like
> to 
> > > use it in the future if I can figure out what it is. 
> > > 
> > > Dave S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:16:20 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Shift Points

Hm, I would have said redline.

Normally it's just under redline (for fastest acceleration) depending on
the gearing and power band.

Jim

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:20:01 -0400 Jeremy Delaney
<thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net> writes:
> I asked Rob Grady once, and he told me that about 2800 is the best. 
> -Jeremy
> 
> steve trimble wrote:
> 
> >Any opinion on the proper shift point(rpm wise)for the
> >five speed??
> >Steve T
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> >moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 21:54:58 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay

Notice on the photo of the engine that there's a nameplate from the
DeLorean Motor Center. Call them and see if they can tell you anything
more about the car.

Ken 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dwest1981_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:dwest1981_at_dml_aol.com] 
> Sent: Monday, July 19, 2004 9:06 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Something Fishy on E-Bay
> 
> Hi there Ladies and Gents,
> I'm a future owner and a close follower of whatever happens to be on 
> E-Bay at the moment.  This is more for kicks than any serious intent 
> to purchase a vehicle that way, but this past week one car caught my 
> attention.
> Apparently #1302 has come up for sale in Concord, NH.  The seller 
> maintains that it has a set of the original Legend twin turbochargers 
> factory installed, and has supplied pictures to support their 
> statement.  The fit and finish of the car is a little bit worn, but 
> nothing major.  I've also seen the pictures of #502, also
> supposed to 
<<SNIP>>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:51:22 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: RE: delorean_at_dml_gmail.com email address available on ebay

Gee for free I can give someone the following:

DeLorean_at_dml_ sacketmansion.com, fmtimemachine.com, baydrivein.com, or
stiefelaluminum.com fancy that.  Plus I can give some really good deals
on hosting...  Odd I must jump on ebay and auction these off...

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank [mailto:delorean_at_dml_gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2004 9:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] delorean_at_dml_gmail.com email address available on ebay

This email address offered to you as a Delorean fan. See the auction 
below and own delorean_at_dml_gmail.com and get 1 gig of free email space.

5 days only

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5710800498




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 07:44:41 -0000
From: "George DeLorean" <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What do you recommend?

Hi all. 
       In pre-preparation for buying myself a DMC, I have a couple 
simple questions for you.  When it comes to coolant, what brand/type 
should I use?  What tranny (M/T) fluid do I need, and also, can 
anyone tell me of a couple places here in Utah (Salt Lake) where I 
can get some good service for it?  And where can I get some of those 
dang special tools that I'll need for doing work when I can? :)  
Thanks in advance.

                            Signed,

                        George DeLorean




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 05:26:51 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).

The splash guard will keep water that drains down off of your
electrical connections. But with the cap off, you then leave the wires
exposed to any, and all water that gets sprayed up by your front
tires. Trust me on this one. I left the fuel pump access panel off one
time, and had to drive thru a thunder storm on the way home. My trunk
was a mess, with grimey water sprayed EVERYWHERE inside the trunk.

If you want the extra protection, I'd leave the cap on, but cut the
edges off. Then simply glue it to the boot using RTV sealant. That
way, you'll keep water from entering the tank, incase the boot is
breached. And the wires & fuel pump don't corrode from water standing
in the boot. A weak spot in the electrical circuit for the fuel pump
is where the wiring harness pluggs into the Inertia Switch, to ground
the pump. Too much resistance on the line, and the wires will
overheat, and melt the plug. Yet another "Ask me how I found out about
this the hard way!" problem I discovered...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> In lieu of an upper cover I have a splash guard attached to the
outer
> face of the spare tire well (deflects water from the windshield
> plenum). This means only 1 layer of rubber between the tank opening
> and hose clamp -- the boot. Clamp holds it very tightly against that
> lip. Impossible to remove without loosening the clamp.
> 
> Simplest improvement to the upper cover would be a design that
> straddles the clamp, allowing it to hold the boot only.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 12:56:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant color purple - what is it?

I'm sure it's not just an additive - the color is pretty intense. I 
looked at it closer last night (now in a bucket) and since it seems 
to the the consistency of normal coolant I'm ruling out the Evans 
stuff (that is a non-water-based coolant that is relatively thick). 
I'm trying to contact the prior owner but I'm guessing it's one of 
the various versions of propaline glycol - probably AMSOIL. If I find 
out I'll let you all know, and I'll strongly recommend it based on 
the appearance/condition of the system in this car. 

Too bad the fuel system is not as good.......

Dave S.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> 
wrote:
> "purple ice" is a coolant additive that is supposed to keep 
temperature
> down.  I'm not sure how much it changes the color of the coolant 
though,
> you don't add very much.
> 
> Jim
> 
> On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:00:12 -0000 "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> writes:
> > Its most likely just the coolant itself. Coolant isn't limited to 
the
> > greenish color, they come in a wide variety of colors. You will 
see
> > reds, blues, greens, yellows, and so forth. 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:59:28 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay

He doesn't actually *say* it is a Legend Turbo.. here is the actual text:

" Delorean selected only two approved turbo installation dealers during production. Legend turbos in NJ was one of them."

He's just stating a fact, and trying to mislead the reader that his twin turbo is a Legend turbo.

-Hank

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 13:27:54 -0000
From: danwest_at_dml_ufl.edu
Subject: Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay

I'll be... when you're right you're right.

Thanks Ken, I'll give it a try.

Regards,
Dan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Notice on the photo of the engine that there's a nameplate from the
> DeLorean Motor Center.
> <<SNIP>>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 09:42:55 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay

There is something fishy here and it may be intentional and may not. I 
emailed the seller for more information and he never returned my emails.
Marty Maier and myself exchanged emails and we are in agreement that it is 
an Island twin turbo setup with some intercooler modifications. It is an 
interesting setup. Not sure how functional as it is relying on air being 
forced down through the louvers , through the engine cover , and then 
through the intercoolers. Marty thinks he has seen the car at maybe 
Cincinnatti however I could not locate it in any of my old pictures.

I think the reason it has not been bid on is the lack of correspondence from 
the seller which makes anyone who would potentially spend $16K leary.
It did me!

Cecil Longwisch
#10663








>From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: [DML] Something Fishy on E-Bay
>Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 21:54:58 -0700
>
>Notice on the photo of the engine that there's a nameplate from the
>DeLorean Motor Center. Call them and see if they can tell you anything
>more about the car.
>
>Ken
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dwest1981_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:dwest1981_at_dml_aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2004 9:06 PM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] Something Fishy on E-Bay
> >
> > Hi there Ladies and Gents,
> > I'm a future owner and a close follower of whatever happens to be on
> > E-Bay at the moment.  This is more for kicks than any serious intent
> > to purchase a vehicle that way, but this past week one car caught my
> > attention.
> > Apparently #1302 has come up for sale in Concord, NH.  The seller
> > maintains that it has a set of the original Legend twin turbochargers
> > factory installed, and has supplied pictures to support their
> > statement.  The fit and finish of the car is a little bit worn, but
> > nothing major.  I've also seen the pictures of #502, also
> > supposed to
><<SNIP>>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 10:39:51 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Tempremental starting Problem

Alistair,
I tried sending this to you directly but it was rejected for some reason.

I have a similar problem.  When the engine and the air temperatures are hot,
I get the typical hot start symptoms.  I know my accumulator works because I
had it at a major vendor's shop and personally saw the fuel system keep
pressure for
over 4 hours.  This means (as I understand it) the accumulator works.

It doesn't even have to be 5 minutes for me.  If I stall the car (I'm use to
automatics but my D is a manual) the symptoms typically appear immediately
on hot days.  On cool days it may or may not surface.

I have found if I hold the gas peddle to the floor under these conditions my
car will start up fine.  Specifically, I attempt to start it normally.  If
it
doesn't start like usual (5 seconds or so) or I get a flooded gas smell, I
turn the ignition off, hold the gas peddle to the floor, turn the key and it
usually starts right up (guess it goes without saying to release the peddle
when it starts).  I may have to crank it a few extra seconds.  I don't pump
the accelerator.  Try this and see if it works for you.

I also recommend you clean the contacts and connectors on the ballast
resistor in the engine compartment.  Not sure that will make a difference
but it did once for me.

I've talked to several major players over the past 2 years with
respect to this and all are scratching their heads.  Replaced fuel
accumulator and fuel distributor with no luck.

So holding the gas peddle to the floor works for me.  That's my story and
I'm sticking to it.

BTW, I feel this is some type of vapor lock.  Not sure if it is but my dad's
old 69 Ford van had similar symptoms (won't start and gas smell) and the
mechanic told us it was vapor lock.  I did have one guy suggest I open the
gas cap and vent the tank.  Tried it once and that did not make a difference
(but I did not actually open the little check plate where the nozzle goes in
so I may not have actually vented the tank).

In any case, I'll be dang if I know why it works but it does for me.  Drop
me a note if this does/doesn't work for you.  Not that I am wishing anything
bad on you but it would be nice to know I am not the only one in this boat.

All my best,
Ed Garbade
10541

----- Original Message ----- 

> So how come when I turn the key without pumping the gas pedal the
> car turns over and over without anything happening and then when i
> do pump it, it starts straight away??
>
> Alistair



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 15:01:38 -0000
From: "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 1981 delorean for sale turbocharged southwest michigan

selling my 1981 delorean. it is in good condition w/ turbocharged 
engine & new performence exhaust (had DMC houston install). a couple 
small problems because of new alternator improperly installed 
(windows wont roll down, craig radio doesnt work) and also "R" in 
DeLorean is missing on back...this would cost 2 dollars to get a new 
one... email me joe4359102_at_dml_yahoo.com if interested.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 15:10:33 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Shift Points

Progressive shift points are *WAY* below red line. 

Mine slam shifts closer to 2500 RPM. Anyone who tells you a Renault
transmission can't be slam shifted is full of it. Lived like that for
a week or so until I did my engine swap. Slips into gear as smooth as
silk (except for 1st to 2nd -- never could do that one without
catching some teeth).

Best way to slam shift is actually by ear.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> Hm, I would have said redline.
> 
> Normally it's just under redline (for fastest acceleration) depending on
> the gearing and power band.
> 
> Jim
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 07:48:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Something Fishy on E-Bay

Am I missing something?  What is so special about Vin
1302?

I remember seeing this car on Ebay a few years ago. 
Also for sale by someone in NH.  I don't know if this
is a new owner, or the same one from years ago.

At the time, I did call Don _at_dml_ DeLorean Motor Center
and even sent him the link to the auction.  At the
time, he said "it looked familiar".. thinking he had
done the inter cooler install at some point.

Just to be sure, when I saw this auction I sent an
e-mail to Fred Dellis to ask him about it.  He has not
yet responded.

I also e-mailed the seller, who again said this WAS a
Legend car.  when I asked him for some sort of
documentation, proof, or story as to why he thought it
was... he did not respond.

A few comments about the car and auction:

It is unclear how the air is supposed to flow through
the inter cooler (for cooling).  Does the air come up
from the bottom and get sucked out the louvers?  or
the other way around?

The auction also says the engine was rebuilt.  There
are no details as to what parts were used.  If stock
DMC engine parts were used, than this engine will
suffer the same limitations as every other bolt on kit
for the DeLorean does.


--- Cecil Longwisch <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
> There is something fishy here and it may be
> intentional and may not. I 
<snip>


	
		
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Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign!
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 14:52:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Moving Accelerator Pedal While Starting

David's talking about an accelerator pump like an old fashioned
carburetor -- every time you lower the pedal on one of those,
additional gas is squirted into the carb, irrespective of whether the
engine is spinning or not.

DeLo pedal is connected to the throttle plates only. Moving it does
nothing more than open those plates.

Which isn't to say opening the throttle plates won't affect starting,
however. Rather than pumping the pedal, try lowering it different
amounts then holding it still while turning the engine. Additional air
flow will lower the air sensor plate more, metering more fuel to the
injectors. May help if your CI is misadjusted or missing enrichment
(cold start valve or CPR).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alistairmccann"
<alistairmccann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> So how come when I turn the key without pumping the gas pedal the 
> car turns over and over without anything happening and then when i 
> do pump it, it starts straight away??
> 
> Alistair
> Vin Pilot25
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 15:20:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Fuel Pump Boot

I'm running a generic pump intended for frame mount (weathertight).
Probably not submersible, but I found a way around that -- pump sits
in a sealed sleeve that protrudes into the tank. Have never seen
splashed water in the boot, but if any does it will surely evaporate
from pump heat.

Stock DeLo cap wouldn't fit my fuel line and elbow anyway.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> The splash guard will keep water that drains down off of your
> electrical connections. But with the cap off, you then leave the wires
> exposed to any, and all water that gets sprayed up by your front
> tires. Trust me on this one. I left the fuel pump access panel off one
> time, and had to drive thru a thunder storm on the way home. My trunk
> was a mess, with grimey water sprayed EVERYWHERE inside the trunk.
> 
> If you want the extra protection, I'd leave the cap on, but cut the
> edges off. Then simply glue it to the boot using RTV sealant. That
> way, you'll keep water from entering the tank, incase the boot is
> breached. And the wires & fuel pump don't corrode from water standing
> in the boot. A weak spot in the electrical circuit for the fuel pump
> is where the wiring harness pluggs into the Inertia Switch, to ground
> the pump. Too much resistance on the line, and the wires will
> overheat, and melt the plug. Yet another "Ask me how I found out about
> this the hard way!" problem I discovered...
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 15:26:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).

RTV will not stand up to gasoline vapors for long. There's a reason 
that the design, as clunky as it is, is the way it is. The idea is to 
keep water from pooling in the boot which will eventually find it's 
way into the tank, not to mention rusting the top of the pump. Note 
that this pump design is mounted under the car in other applications, 
so the pump itself is basically waterproof. It's just not intended to 
be **under** water i.e. under a pump boot-full. 

Something to consider on this topic though, when the fuel pump and 
boot is properly installed, and the trunk cover panel is in place, 
there is actually quite a bit of pressure from the panel on the boot 
that keeps in in place. If you want to do something beneficial ADD 
some of that self-adhesive insulation to the bottom of the cover 
plate to increase the pressure. But keep an eye on it for 
deterioration over time. 

I still think (this has been done, but not by me) the best solution 
is to remote the pump outside of the tank. It's a big effort and 
presents more issues, such as "where?" and closing off the big hole 
in the tank. 

Dave S.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> The splash guard will keep water that drains down off of your
> electrical connections. But with the cap off, you then leave the 
wires
> exposed to any, and all water that gets sprayed up by your front
> tires. Trust me on this one. I left the fuel pump access panel off 
one
> time, and had to drive thru a thunder storm on the way home. My 
trunk
> was a mess, with grimey water sprayed EVERYWHERE inside the trunk.
> 
> If you want the extra protection, I'd leave the cap on, but cut the
> edges off. Then simply glue it to the boot using RTV sealant. That
> way, you'll keep water from entering the tank, incase the boot is
> breached. And the wires & fuel pump don't corrode from water 
standing
> in the boot. 




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 15:41:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)

Buy this manual off eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7911807547
Will walk you through PRV tear down all the way to the bare block and
back out again. Uses actual photographs, not line drawings (except for
the CIS section). Some of the measurements are B27 specific, but
assemblies are identical to B28, as are torque values.

Rich Acuti replaced a head gasket in his condo parking lot, so it can
be done. Contact him direct: racuti1(at)delorean.com.

Compression test the side of the engine without cross threaded spark
plugs. If it's OK, you know where the problem is. Can remove the
damaged head and easily helicoil the bad plugs off the car.

This would also be an excellent time to replace the exhaust studs with
Rob Grady's stainless ones, or at least put some stainless nuts on the
carbon studs (Fastenal sells them: Part #MN2570000A20000).

Darren Bowker (Martin Gutkowski's buddy) may be able to translate your
engine codes. Contact me off List for his address
(brobertson(at)carolina.net).

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Negative. I have yet to perform a compression test on the engine yet.
> Something that I am loathing. Not because it's difficult, but because
> It's gonna be a pain with 3 cylinders that have cross-threaded
> sparkplugs.
> 
> It's interesting to hear about those Volvo head gaskets, vs. Renault.
> I've suspected for some time now that the engine blew it's headgaskets
> at some point in the past. The missing exhaust studs from the heads,
> and the sloppy, leaky rocker cover gaskets. After comparing this to
> another DeLorean engine, I've discovered that I have different engine
> codes. For those interested, here they are (I hope yahoo doesn't f*x0r
> the ASCII here).
> 
> Engine Plate/ID Tag:
> ___________
> |154    740|
> |          |
> |000006287 |
> ------------
> 
> And here is the info stamped into the LH head. Note: if it appears
> between 2 *'s, that means it was stamped upside down. And the letter
> "P" is within a circle.
> 
> 9 8 81	*0766*103121 P*38* 8D
> 
> What's most interesting about this is the serial # on the ID tag. The
> build # is lower than my VIN. If it were higher, I coudl definetly
> understand that. But this just seems fishy... If anyone has access to
> engine codes, it would be great to confirm this.
> 
> I'm not really afraid to tearing into the motor. Granted though, I've
> never torn an engine apart before. But having a Chrysler Service
> Manual written on how to service/overhaul the PRV, has really
> bolstered my confidence. Add to the fact that it's written in English,
> points out certain problem areas, and has lots of clean, legible
> pictures! :) But space is just limted to do the job. Classic car owner
> + apartment dweller are not the idea combination for situations such
> as this.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 18:14:31 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1981 delorean for sale turbocharged southwest michigan

Hi, I live in Holland Michigan.  Where is this delorean located at?

Erik


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> selling my 1981 delorean. it is in good condition w/ turbocharged 
> engine & new performence exhaust (had DMC houston install). a 
couple 
> small problems because of new alternator improperly installed 
> (windows wont roll down, craig radio doesnt work) and also "R" in 
> DeLorean is missing on back...this would cost 2 dollars to get a 
new 
> one... email me joe4359102_at_dml_y... if interested.




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 19:10:19 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: My leftover stuff on EBAY!

Hello Group,

Just wanted to give you all a "heads up" on my ebay auctions. All 
sorts of neat stuff that I never got around to putting on my car 
before I sold it and sent it off to Austria (still can't believe 
that).

Among the items are a PJ Grady Hardcore Angle Drive, full set of 
manuals, Parking Brake cables, Lower Speedo cable, a car cover, cat 
converter, lower ball joints and more! My ebay user name 
is "nick2k", help me send this stuff to a good home!

Nick




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 18:40:17 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Red/blue wire near instrument cluster?

There's a short red/blue wire with a black connector on it near the 
instrument cluster's wiring harness.  Does anyone know what this 
goes to?  I don't remember unplugging it when I took the binnacle 
off, and I wanted to be sure it wasn't supposed to go to something.

thanks,

Matt
#1604






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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 18:15:59 -0000
From: danwest_at_dml_ufl.edu
Subject: Re: Something Fishy on E-Bay

Thanks for all of the great gouge folks.

I've decided to let this one drop... I'm not really financially 
prepared for it just yet anyway.  Maybe in January, and probably with 
a much more documented car through a much more aware and reputable 
seller.

Oh, about the VIN... I goofed on my facts.  It turns out that 1302 - 
the car said to be for sale - is the first to have some sort of new 
hinges for the cargo compartment cover.  Oh well, people tell me all 
the time that it's okay to feel silly once in a while.

Thanks for the thoughts and the time!
Dan




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 17:24:50 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Red/blue wire near instrument cluster?

Matt, All the R/B wires I see on the diagram meet up with other R/B wires.
Some going to the Tail lights and some to the side marker lights. The all
come off the #2 fuse. Even though they may be close to the cluster, it may
have nothing to do with it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Matt [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 12:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Red/blue wire near instrument cluster?


There's a short red/blue wire with a black connector on it near the
instrument cluster's wiring harness.  Does anyone know what this
goes to?  I don't remember unplugging it when I took the binnacle
off, and I wanted to be sure it wasn't supposed to go to something.

thanks,

Matt
#1604






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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 00:45:34 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: DELOREAN SAFETY).

I don't understand why there's a need to move the pump at all, What is
the probability that there will be a problem with the fuel pump/tank
upon
impact, secondly, what percent of DeLoreans have had any such problems
before with impacts? The tank is in the safest place you could ever
put
a tank on a car-right in the "Y" section of a frame, which by design
is very strong with its tiangular sections that make up the "Y". Now
if it was like the old Mustangs with the fuel tank right in the trunk,
then I'd say worry and come up with something new. If you have the
boot on right, it would take the impact of a Mack truck to take it
off, but I doubt being subjected to that kind of impact you would even
know the difference. Can't be greasy, oily-has to be installed dry and
with a good clamp, if you install it and can't pry it up by hand, it
won't move. If you're willing to spend the time and money to modify
then go for it, but also know that the original design is not all that
bad. But if anything, the best way to prevent any fuel/fire damage, is
to construct some kind of metal/or fire proof material-shield
around/above the pump or tank. This may be just as tough as relocating
the pump. I wouldn't worry, but I guess anything is possible right.
Dani B 5003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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