From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2139
Date: Monday, July 26, 2004 8:13 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Turbo question
From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

2. AC/Heater fan speed control swich
From: "arthurmodel" <arthurmodel_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. new DMC ebay store!
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

4. Re: Oregon Tech Session
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

5. DeLorean on cartoon network
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: BTTF on Access Hoolywood Today
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Hood won't pop up
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Hood won't pop up
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Alternator
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Turbo question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

11. RE: AC/Heater fan speed control swich
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Hood won't pop up
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

13. A/c Cycling
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

14. Re: Oregon Tech Session
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

15. Oil Pressure Guage
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Radio Wiring
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: Turbo question
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. Re: Oil Pressure Guage
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

19. Re: Turbo question
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Re: A/c Cycling
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Turbo question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Oil Pressure Guage
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Re: Radio Wiring
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

24. Supercharger in Bob Brandys' dyno test
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

25. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 20:14:43 -0700
From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

Max,

I don't have the specific info you need but have also purchased IHI 
turbos on e-bay. The main differences are: ball bearing vs. bushing and 
water cooled. I believe the originals are a bushing bearing design and 
the ball bearings run a little faster. The water cooling feature 
requires some plumbing and probably isn't really necessary for the 
DeLorean as the turbo's get some pretty nice access to fresh air after 
shutdown and therefore are a little less likely to coke up. I am very 
limited for time but these are the things to look for.

Don Ekhoff

bluemax86 wrote:

>I am going to replace one of my twin turbos. On ebay I see that there 
>are the same ones for sale but they have different specs. Like there 
>will be an IHI RHB5 VJ11, or an IHI RHB5 VJ14, or a VA59.
>
>Does it matter what spec they are or can I have two different ones on 
>my car.
>
>Thanks a bunch
>Max
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>  
>






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 02:29:48 -0000
From: "arthurmodel" <arthurmodel_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC/Heater fan speed control swich

Could any member help me with a replacement part number and source 
for the air conditioning/heater fan speed control switch ? Thanking 
you in advance for any help you may be

Art Ellis Vin 17134




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2004 23:34:23 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: new DMC ebay store!

Hey Gang,

After getting many multiple requests for an inventory list, I've decided 
to experiment with running an ebay store to help advertise the DeLorean 
parts I have.  It will take me a few months to document and post 
everything, but I've gotten things started tonight, and you can check it 
out at:

http://stores.ebay.com/cincinnatiuseddeloreanparts_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZQ2d1QQdptZ0QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQtZkm

or, if that URL is too bulky, just go to the ebay "stores" section of 
the ebay site, and do a search for "DeLorean parts".  The store is 
called "Cincinnati Used DeLorean Parts".

Thanks again for the continued support!  For just pennies a day, you too 
can help Josh retrieve his basement.  (haha)

Thanks for your time,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 11289 (parts)
VIN 10236 (parts)
VIN 3951 (parts)





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 03:58:20 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Oregon Tech Session

Thanks to Toby for pulling together a really fun afternoon of 
tinkering with the Oregon gang.

I counted a total of 7 DeLoreans (OK, so a couple of them were mine) 
for the session in addition to several folks who joined to share 
their expertise and learn from Toby without bringing their cars.

The trailing arm bolts were replaced on Chris S's car. Both torsion 
bars were adjusted on Brandon's car using Toby's slick torsion 
adjustment jig and his driver's door lock and latch mechanism was 
adjusted to improve overall door operation. And a ground issue was 
addressed with Chris A's car, where we also encountered an 
unfortunate fastener failure that we're still working to resolve.

Although it was record-breaking heat at the time, I had a really 
great time working alongside Toby and local owners at the Oregon 
tech session. I look forward to the next time we have a chance to 
have a similar event.

       Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Hi Gang - For those who wish to take advantage of an opportunity 
to 
> gather with other DeLorean owners in the Portland, Oregon area, we 
> will be having an afternoon tech session in the Forest Grove 
area.  





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 06:51:36 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean on cartoon network

Hey I was watching adult swim on the cartoon network. It shows are 
like Simpsons type stuff. Anyway there is a show called Harvey 
Birdman and at the end of the episode the Jetsons who do a cameo 
jump into the time machine and head off while the fire trials are 
left behind. Doc then runs in and the episode ends. 
Just figure I post this and yes I do still watch cartoons.

Darryl
VIN 5898




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 04:43:15 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF on Access Hoolywood Today

I want that!!!!! Unfortunately I can't either put it in dvd or put 
it in a server... but it would be great if you allowed us access to 
it :)

Flavia - NJ
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> I just recorded a segment of Access Hollywood that had a nice 
piece on
> the BTTF Triliogy with some outtakes and some interviews with cast
> members and others. I caught it in VHS about 12 min. Can anyone 
put it
> on DVD and/or put it up on a server? Is anyone interested in it? It
> will probably be rerun several times in the near future anyway. 
Nice
> to see it hasn't been competely forgotten. The show also did the
> Terminator series, Pulp Fiction, and When Harry met Sally.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:31:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hood won't pop up

You don't damage the loop by slamming the hood closed. The loop is
usually worn on the side. It happens because the latch is not centered
under the loop so it rubs on the side. The bolt holes holding the
latch are not large enough to allow for the proper adjustment. Remove
the latch, enlarge the bolt holes, and then reattach making sure the
lock is centered so the loop on the bonnet falls right in the middle
without rubbing on either side of the lock. Properly done the bonnet
(hood) does not need to be slammed. The height is also set by the
latch so run the bonnet stops down so they don't interfere when
adjusting the latch. Once you have the height set with the latch run
the bonnet stops up so they push SLIGHTLY against the bonnet. This
keeps the corners from flapping while you drive. Once you set the
bonnet stops check that the restraining brackets line up with them so
in the event of a crash they will capture the stops and keep the
bonnet from going through the windscreen. I can let the bonnet drop on
the latch and it works just fine.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> To avoid damage to the metal loop, gently lower the hood to rest on
the latch, then place the base of your palm on the hood over the latch
and push down until the latch clicks.  Never drop the hood down on the
latch to close it.
>  
>  





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 14:45:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Hood won't pop up

If I recall correctly, at least one of the vendors (DMCH) has a 
replacment spring for the trunk lid latch that is quite a bit 
stronger than the original. This pops the hood up quite nicely, and I 
think it was a couple bucks at most. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:

 The height is also set by the
> latch so run the bonnet stops down so they don't interfere when
> adjusting the latch. Once you have the height set with the latch run
> the bonnet stops up so they push SLIGHTLY against the bonnet. This
> keeps the corners from flapping while you drive. Once you set the
> bonnet stops check that the restraining brackets line up with them 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 15:29:43 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator

I would also like to add a comment about John's Hervey's 
alternators. I bought a 130 from John in hopes of upgrading from a 
working Motorola and finding a replacement that would last longer 
than a few miles and a couple of hours. I've been through 2 of 
Grady's and 1 rebuild of my own. Rod was very helpful but felt like 
the problem was with my car. So, I checked out the electrical system 
to the point of checking and cleaning and testing virtually every 
connection on the car, running volt meters continuously on the car 
to try and find spikes and determine why - and on and on. I could 
find nothing unusual. The Motorola continued to work fine but still, 
when everything was on at night, 13 volts or just below. 

Well, John's appears to work! I know he has done some special things 
to accommodate the DeLorean surges, etc. and they appear to be doing 
the job. Everything electrical seems to work much better. I've had 
the 130 on since the day after PF and driven nearly 750 miles and 
hours of fun driving. I've even quit carrying the Motorola in the 
trunk.

Harold McElraft - 3354


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I was the one at Pigeon Forge that won the Alternator from John 
Hervey 
> at www.specialtauto.com. I am not writing this just to give 
> specialtauto some advertisement, i am writing to tell you all it 
is the 
> far best upgrade i have done to my car. The alternator was one of 
his 
> D110 models.
> 
> I no longer notice the "fan kick" when the fans turn on, A/C 
cycling on 
> and off, my windows operate faster, my aftermarket car stereo no 
longer 
> gives a loud "pop" when i turn up the volume plus my car just 
seems to 
> run better.
> 
> I knew i was in need of an alternator replacement soon but i did 
not 
> realize how much the old stock alternator really effected the 
normal 
> operations of my car.
> 
> Thank you
> Mark V




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 17:02:07 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

Fresh air is one thing. But being so close to the pavement, it's not 
going to be all that cool. You need to also make sure that you spin 
down the turbos by idling the motor for at least a minute or so.

Something that I've noticed with every single turbo set up that I've 
seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the turbines. Weather 
it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a pickup 
line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you want to prolong 
the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply CLEAN oil to the 
turbos.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> Max,
> 
> I don't have the specific info you need but have also purchased IHI 
> turbos on e-bay. The main differences are: ball bearing vs. bushing 
and 
> water cooled. I believe the originals are a bushing bearing design 
and 
> the ball bearings run a little faster. The water cooling feature 
> requires some plumbing and probably isn't really necessary for the 
> DeLorean as the turbo's get some pretty nice access to fresh air 
after 
> shutdown and therefore are a little less likely to coke up. I am 
very 
> limited for time but these are the things to look for.
> 
> Don Ekhoff




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 12:30:04 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: AC/Heater fan speed control swich

Here's one on ebay for $10.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2485605961&category=34206


>From: "arthurmodel" <arthurmodel_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] AC/Heater fan speed control swich
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 02:29:48 -0000
>
>Could any member help me with a replacement part number and source
>for the air conditioning/heater fan speed control switch ? Thanking
>you in advance for any help you may be
>
>Art Ellis Vin 17134
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:29:23 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hood won't pop up

Gotta interject here.  I bought that spring and it worked maybe 1 or 
2 times before it relaxed and no longer did the job.  Do yourself a 
favor and go to a hardware store and get a nice big thick one.  If 
you almost have to break your arm to put it on the latch, you know 
you've got the right kind :)  My hood pops open with so much force 
that I reckon with a couple more adjustments I'll be able to get it 
to open FULLY just by pulling the lever :)

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> If I recall correctly, at least one of the vendors (DMCH) has a 
> replacment spring for the trunk lid latch that is quite a bit 
> stronger than the original. This pops the hood up quite nicely, 
and I 
> think it was a couple bucks at most. 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> 
>  The height is also set by the
> > latch so run the bonnet stops down so they don't interfere when
> > adjusting the latch. Once you have the height set with the latch 
run
> > the bonnet stops up so they push SLIGHTLY against the bonnet. 
This
> > keeps the corners from flapping while you drive. Once you set the
> > bonnet stops check that the restraining brackets line up with 
them




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:39:06 -0000
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: A/c Cycling

I missed the recent thread on a/c repairs but was hoping that 
someone can give me some help. At idle, the pressure in the a/c 
system is 40psi, but if your rev the engine to about 2500 rpms, 
the pressure hits about 60 psi then the clutch disengages until 
the revs drop, then it cycles again.  What might be the issue 
here. It should have a full charge of refrigerant
vin 2105




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:40:44 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Oregon Tech Session

I'd just like to thank everyone involved in the gathering we had on Friday.
Even though it was insanely hot, we all survived thanks to Knut's fully
stocked fridge.

I'd like to thank Toby Peterson from delorean-parts.com and PNDC fame for
driving down to help. He adjusted my torsion bars as they were cranked up
too high. Without him I wouldn't have had this valuable procedure performed.
Now that it's hotter outside my doors were flying up at an almost lethal
speed.

Knut Grimsrud deserves a huge thanks for letting us use his beautiful garage
while we messed up his nice clean floor, and to his wife for being so
generous. Hopefully I can repay you someday for all you've done. Knut
straightened out a problem with my door lock mechanism that has gone unfixed
for a few years now, it's such a great feeling to have it functioning
normally after all this time. I appreciate my car so much more now.

I had a great time and I'd love to do it again soon. Maybe when it's not so
ridiculously hot out.

Brandon Payne
#2975


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:46:36 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Oil Pressure Guage


I know I've seen this post before but could not find it.  When 
idling, my oil guage jumps all over the place but when driving it is 
normal.  Is it the oil pressure sending unit that causes this 
fluctuation and needs replacement?

Thanks!
Greg
#6840




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:46:18 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Radio Wiring

I'm installing a new radio in my D and have come across the following 
(thanks to Dan P. for helping me out so far):

I do not see a dimmer wire on the schematics for the car, except for the ASI 
radio which is coded as a blue wire(I have the craig). I also don't see a 
dimmer wire coming OUT of the craig. Will I find one when I take that area 
apart? Do the early cars with the craig not include a dimmer wire? If they 
do, it is not currently connected to anything? Any input is greatly 
appreciated. Thanks.

Dom Diaz

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:52:07 -0500
From: "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

> Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> turbos.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"



Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used in the
kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the impeller
shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing surrounding the
shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under boost. Trying
to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a separate
source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.

Bruce Benson




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 19:02:46 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Guage

It could be the sending unit but I would first have a quick look at 
the wire that connects it. Mine was so loose that every time I would 
drive it do the same thing as it made contact on and off.

Look behind the passenger rear wheel, the sender is right beside the 
oil filter.

- Mike
#17084

> I know I've seen this post before but could not find it.  When 
> idling, my oil guage jumps all over the place but when driving it 
is 
> normal.  Is it the oil pressure sending unit that causes this 
> fluctuation and needs replacement?
> 
> Thanks!
> Greg
> #6840




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 20:23:59 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

I thought this pic might be useful. This is taken from my Renault 25 
turbo engine block, left-hand side below the exhaust manifold. The 
dipstick tube is on the left in the same place as on a DeLorean, and the 
oil pressure switch is at the bottom right of the photo. Above it, that 
tube running left to right, is the oil feed to the turbo

http://www.delorean.co.uk/Dscn1468.jpg

Hope this helps

Martin
#1458
#4426

therealdmcvegas wrote:

>Something that I've noticed with every single turbo set up that I've 
>seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the turbines. Weather 
>it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a pickup 
>line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you want to prolong 
>the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply CLEAN oil to the 
>turbos.
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585 "X"
>  
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 21:13:07 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: A/c Cycling

Tell us how the gauges are connected and what sort of refrigerant is 
in the system?

Harold McElraft - 3354 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I missed the recent thread on a/c repairs but was hoping that 
> someone can give me some help. At idle, the pressure in the a/c 
> system is 40psi, but if your rev the engine to about 2500 rpms, 
> the pressure hits about 60 psi then the clutch disengages until 
> the revs drop, then it cycles again.  What might be the issue 
> here. It should have a full charge of refrigerant
> vin 2105




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 20:04:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

What I have seen, usually on race cars, is an accumulater type system
that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
large flows required. The oil also performs another important
function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > turbos.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
in the
> kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
impeller
> shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
surrounding the
> shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
boost. Trying
> to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
separate
> source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> 
> Bruce Benson




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 21:16:42 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Guage

The sending unit is most likely your problem, especially if it is an 
OEM.

Harold McElraft - 3354

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> I know I've seen this post before but could not find it.  When 
> idling, my oil guage jumps all over the place but when driving it 
is 
> normal.  Is it the oil pressure sending unit that causes this 
> fluctuation and needs replacement?
> 
> Thanks!
> Greg
> #6840




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:02:19 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Radio Wiring

The Craig radio display does not dim when you use the dimmer control (at 
least not on Vin 1880).  I never even knew that the ASI did...that makes it even 
more desirable.  Good call replacing it, I think it is an ugly radio to begin 
with.  I would gladly replace it with an ASI if I could find one for a 
reasonable price.

Patrick
1880


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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:21:57 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Supercharger in Bob Brandys' dyno test

I was reading on the DMCnews page that Bob Brandys' did a bunch of 
dyno tests and recorded the results for a stock, turbo, and 
supercharged D.  Listed on there, it says a Vortech supercharger was 
tested.  Does anyone know what model this is?  I e-mailed Vortech 
about it and they said this:

"Thank you for your interest in Vortech. Unfortunately, we do not 
currently offer a supercharging system for your vehicle. Please 
refer to our website for updates on what systems our engineers are 
developing."

Obviously, they must make one that fits, but they don't know that it 
fits.  Else Bob mistakenly thought it was a Vortech, but that's not 
like Bob to mix up technical stuff.  

Matt
#1604  






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 15:43:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on the car for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the garage and turn the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn the engine off. The only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm passing someone or going up a really steep grade at elevation, the Siskiou Summit for example. The rest of the time they are just idling along with no boost. Yes they are spinning but they are not generating any heat greater than the exhaust passing through them.There is no way I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp. before shutting the engine off anyway.

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:What I have seen, usually on race cars, is an accumulater type system
that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
large flows required. The oil also performs another important
function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" wrote:
> > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > turbos.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
in the
> kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
impeller
> shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
surrounding the
> shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
boost. Trying
> to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
separate
> source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> 
> Bruce Benson




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