From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2141
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 2:59 AM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Turbo question
From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>

2. Re: Turbo question
From: Glenn <green95gst_at_dml_earthlink.net>

3. Re: Turbo question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. MOONLIGHT MEMORIES CAR SHOW
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>

5. RE: Re: Hood won't pop up
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. deloreans in spain
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Turbo question
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

8. RE: Re: Turbo question
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Re: Turbo question
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Re: Turbo question
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Manual Shifting Problms
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Firestar 500
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Turbo question
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

14. Re: Firestar 500
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Radio Wiring
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

16. Re: Manual Shifting Problms
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. VIN 878
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>

18. cold starting
From: "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Manual Shifting Problms
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: cold starting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:01:07 -0400
From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbo question

( Moderator's note: www.turbonetics.com is a good turbo source. They own the Rajay name now and service and sell them. The Rajay is the turbo used on the BAE single turbo kits. www.turbocity.com is another source for rebuilds and rebuild kits.)


I have an 83 with an early set of island turbos i.e. no cats...I have not
been able to figure out if they are working right or not. When I accelerate
or rev up the engine...the boost gauge drops to zero and recovers very
slowly...also I get a putt putt sound when accelerating from a stopped
position and it has pretty slow to pick up. I am not sure whether or not
these units have any oil cooling at all...I have not seen any information
that says they do nor have I noticed any oil lines traveling to them.

I have not been able to find anyone I would trust to look at them...PJ Grady
told me he does not work on them any more and Calloway (Turbo Charged)
Corvettes which is nearby also would not touch them ... additionally I
contacted this woman Eleanor who used to market the kits after her husband
passed away and she sent me some specification info but could not recommend
anyone who could service them in New England...I have no idea whether these
units are helping or hurting the car's performance.

Sincerely,

Mike

Michael W. Townsley
2 Fox Hill Road
Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
860 304 2412
townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Shepherd [mailto:chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 6:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question

I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on the car
for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the garage and turn
the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn the engine off. The
only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm passing someone or going up
a really steep grade at elevation, the Siskiou Summit for example. The rest
of the time they are just idling along with no boost. Yes they are spinning
but they are not generating any heat greater than the exhaust passing
through them.There is no way I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp.
before shutting the engine off anyway.

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:What I have seen, usually on
race cars, is an accumulater type system
that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
large flows required. The oil also performs another important
function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" wrote:
> > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > turbos.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
in the
> kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
impeller
> shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
surrounding the
> shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
boost. Trying
> to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
separate
> source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> 
> Bruce Benson




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 20:01:29 -0700
From: Glenn <green95gst_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

You MUST let the turbo cool down before you shut your motor off.  
Fortunately for our cars, the turbos do not spool that much and usually 
take a little more pressure to spool then more modern turbo equipped 
cars.  I have a single turbo Delorean that I normally do not let run 
before turning off, but that is also after driving easy before I park 
the car.  At only 7 lbs of boost and a full spool at over 4k rpm, there 
is not much need to worry about cooling the turbo unless you run the 
car hard then turn it off.  With the ball-bearing style turbos that 
spool much sooner, you have to be more conscious about letting the 
turbo cool before turning it off.

Another place to get oil feed for the turbo is from the oil filter 
housing.  I run this setup on another turbo car that I own and it 
supplies a clean source of oil with good pressure.  Adding a filter in 
the oil line is ok if you have adequate pressure to the turbo and also 
making sure the filter stays clean.  I have seen many turbos get 
destroyed because of clogged inline filter systems.

-Glenn

On Jul 26, 2004, at 6:14 PM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote:

> Message: 25
>    Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 15:43:51 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question
>
> I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on 
> the car for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the 
> garage and turn the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn 
> the engine off. The only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm 
> passing someone or going up a really steep grade at elevation, the 
> Siskiou Summit for example. The rest of the time they are just idling 
> along with no boost. Yes they are spinning but they are not generating 
> any heat greater than the exhaust passing through them.There is no way 
> I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp. before shutting the 
> engine off anyway.
>
> David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:What I have seen, 
> usually on race cars, is an accumulater type system
> that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
> when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 03:23:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

Actuallly on many installations (not Deloreans) you put a loop (a
trap) in the drain hose so the bearings stay flooded in oil. On some
installations there is a check valve (drain-back valve) in the
pressure line so it stays full of oil. Most oil filters are supposed
to have one also which makes it always important to use the "correct"
oil filter because in many cases even though a filter fits it may not
have a valve or it may not be calibrated to work correctly on every
engine it is cross-referenced to. It is hard to do on a Delorean
because the filter is sideways but on many cars you are supposed to
fill the oil filter up with oil before you put it on so the motor
doesn't have to wait for oil when you first start it up after changing
the filter. Many manufacturers claim most of the wear on the engine
occurs during the first seconds of start-up before the oil pump can
get the oil into the bearings and create the thin film for the parts
to ride on instead of the metal bearings themslves. On the person that
never cools the engine down, the best advice is still to let the motor
idle before shutting off, even though you got 11 years out of it maybe
you can get 12 or more if you take better care of it. Cooling the
motor down by idling for a short time is good advice even on a motor
that doesn't have forced induction. Frequent oil changes also make a
BIG difference so maybe that is why you are getting such good service
from your turbo.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> My DeLorean tends to start quickly and with gusto. This means that the 
> turbo is expected to spin prior to engine oil pressure having a chance 
> to develope and transfer out to the turbo. There isn't really much that 
> can be done about it except to make things as short coupled to the 
> source as possible. Filtration could definitly introduce delay.
> 
> One good policy however is to provide a droop in the pressure line near 
> the turbo. When the line drains at engine shutdown hopefully this 
> depression can provide an immediate burst of oil to get the turbo thru 
> until the main supply is up and flowing. Try to plumb it such that this 
> supply line does not drain when the engine is not running. Prolon oil 
> additive is also an excellent product to help extend the bushing
life of 
> turbochargers.
> 
> Don Ekhoff
> 
> B BENSON wrote:
> 
> >>Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> >>seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> >>it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> >>line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> >>the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> >>turbos.
> >>
> >>-Robert
> >>vin 6585 "X"
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos
used in the
> >kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
impeller
> >shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
surrounding the
> >shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> >milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
boost. Trying
> >to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
separate
> >source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the
system.
> >
> >Bruce Benson
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >  
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 12:41:29 -0000
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>
Subject: MOONLIGHT MEMORIES CAR SHOW

Hi,

This Saturday is a big car show in Hatboro, PA. Close to Philadelphia.
They usually limit to 500 cars (Pre-registration only). 
The town main street will be closed for the show.
This event gets thousands visiters.

http://www.hatboro-pa.com/events/2004/July04.htm#carshow

I just registered for it and I was number 471. 
The lady told me that one more Delorean had registered.

Is this person on the list? Anyone else would like to join us?

Gleb
3406





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:45:02 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hood won't pop up

Group, I have a supplier that has every kind of automotive spring you can
think of. I also have several I have and am experimenting with.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com]
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 8:46 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Hood won't pop up


If I recall correctly, at least one of the vendors (DMCH) has a
replacment spring for the trunk lid latch that is quite a bit
stronger than the original. This pops the hood up quite nicely, and I
think it was a couple bucks at most.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:

 The height is also set by the
> latch so run the bonnet stops down so they don't interfere when
> adjusting the latch. Once you have the height set with the latch run
> the bonnet stops up so they push SLIGHTLY against the bonnet. This
> keeps the corners from flapping while you drive. Once you set the
> bonnet stops check that the restraining brackets line up with them




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 01:53:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: deloreans in spain

Hello all,
 
im in Jerez de la frontera near Rota, wondering if there were any deloreans in this area, if so give me a call
0049 172 619 5889
 
gracias,
 
jordan
11613
 

		
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 06:12:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004, Donald L. Ekhoff wrote:

> My DeLorean tends to start quickly and with gusto. This means that the 
> turbo is expected to spin prior to engine oil pressure having a chance 
> to develope and transfer out to the turbo.

Whenever the engine runs, the turbos spin, but not that much.  When the
engine is under light load such as cruising down the highway (or driving
around a parking lot, or a residential area) the turbo spins about as fast
as a ceiling fan, and doesn't generate any compression heat.  It's ok, for
the brief period of time until the oil pressure comes up.

On more recent cars, meaning after the mid-80s, (and often on modern
aftermarket turbo kits as well), the turbos are water-cooled and plumbed
into the engine cooling system.  This both allows the turbo to cool itself 
more efficiently, as well as preventing oil-coking related problems.  The 
Island kit is not of this type, this is just informational.

> Prolon oil additive is also an excellent product to help extend the
> bushing life of turbochargers.

I'm not much of a fan of oil additives in general.  But an oil with a high 
zinc content will improve the wear under low-oil conditions.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 07:56:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbo question

If the boost gage does not go above zero (showing
boost) then you have a problem.

Could be something as simple as an exhaust leak before
the turbo, or as bad as seized turbos.

I did not know Rob was not working on these any more. 


There was a guy who left Caloway and opened up his own
shop in CT..  The previous owner of 1860 told me the
car spent some time up there (as did another owner who
saw it there).  I dont remember the name of the place,
but someone else on the list may.

Contact me directly if you need more help.

--- michael townsley <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I have an 83 with an early set of island turbos i.e.
> no cats...I have not
> been able to figure out if they are working right or
> not. When I accelerate
> or rev up the engine...the boost gauge drops to zero
> and recovers very
> slowly...also I get a putt putt sound when
> accelerating from a stopped
> position and it has pretty slow to pick up. I am not
> sure whether or not
> these units have any oil cooling at all...I have not
> seen any information
> that says they do nor have I noticed any oil lines
> traveling to them.
<SNIP>


		
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 10:24:44 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbo question

Don't overlook something simple. The cartidges of turbos are usually clamped 
to the turbine housing (the big heavy casting that bolts up to the exhaust 
manifold or "up" pipe) using a v-band. The mechanical advantage of a v-band 
style clamp is tremendous and it takes very little torque on the adjusting 
screw to really clamp the cartidge too tightly to the turbine housing. If 
someone honkered down on those adjusting screws because "they felt loose" 
then the turbine blades could actually contact the turbine housing and 
refuse to turn. This can be checked by removing the outlet hose from the 
compressor and turning the compressor blades by hand. They should turn 
easily and smoothly. If there is resistance or any roughness it would be a 
good idea to inspect the turbine blades for contact damage and also to back 
off on the v-band adjusting screw until things turn smoothly again. When 
properly adjusted the screws on a v-band clamp will feel very loose. They 
never, ever, get "tight" when properly adjusted.

-Joe kuchan


>From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:01:07 -0400
>
>( Moderator's note: www.turbonetics.com is a good turbo source. They own 
>the Rajay name now and service and sell them. The Rajay is the turbo used 
>on the BAE single turbo kits. www.turbocity.com is another source for 
>rebuilds and rebuild kits.)
>
>
>I have an 83 with an early set of island turbos i.e. no cats...I have not
>been able to figure out if they are working right or not. When I accelerate
>or rev up the engine...the boost gauge drops to zero and recovers very
>slowly...also I get a putt putt sound when accelerating from a stopped
>position and it has pretty slow to pick up. I am not sure whether or not
>these units have any oil cooling at all...I have not seen any information
>that says they do nor have I noticed any oil lines traveling to them.
>
>I have not been able to find anyone I would trust to look at them...PJ 
>Grady
>told me he does not work on them any more and Calloway (Turbo Charged)
>Corvettes which is nearby also would not touch them ... additionally I
>contacted this woman Eleanor who used to market the kits after her husband
>passed away and she sent me some specification info but could not recommend
>anyone who could service them in New England...I have no idea whether these
>units are helping or hurting the car's performance.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Mike
>
>Michael W. Townsley
>2 Fox Hill Road
>Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
>860 304 2412
>townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Shepherd [mailto:chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 6:44 PM
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>
>I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on the car
>for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the garage and turn
>the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn the engine off. The
>only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm passing someone or going 
>up
>a really steep grade at elevation, the Siskiou Summit for example. The rest
>of the time they are just idling along with no boost. Yes they are spinning
>but they are not generating any heat greater than the exhaust passing
>through them.There is no way I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp.
>before shutting the engine off anyway.
>
>David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:What I have seen, usually on
>race cars, is an accumulater type system
>that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
>when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
>the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
>large flows required. The oil also performs another important
>function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
>equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
>spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
>gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
>oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
>bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
>with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
>durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
>the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" wrote:
> > > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > > turbos.
> > >
> > > -Robert
> > > vin 6585 "X"
> >
> >
> >
> > Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
>in the
> > kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
>impeller
> > shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
>surrounding the
> > shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> > milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
>boost. Trying
> > to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
>separate
> > source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> >
> > Bruce Benson
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
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>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
>
>
>

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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 10:35:31 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbo question

One other thing (if it isn't already obvious) if the turbines are not 
turning due to misadjusted clamps, toasted bearings, or what have you, then 
what you have is a big restriction in both the exhaust and the air 
induction. Either one alone is pretty bad for performance, but both at the 
same time is killer. The car will run, but very poorly.

I think you need to have a look at whether or not the turbos can spin 
freely, and also look at the turbine and compressor blades to see if there's 
any sign of damage.

I have had dealings with both Turbo City and Turbonetics. I agree with the 
moderator. Both are good. Another shop I found to be very good is Limit 
Engineering in Lake Havasu City, AZ. They are primarily a Garrett shop, but 
John Craig has lots of experience with older turbos. He was very helpful to 
my son and me when we were troubleshooting problems with my son's BAE setup. 
They had parts for the Rajay turbo that BAE used.

-Joe Kuchan


>From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:01:07 -0400
>
>( Moderator's note: www.turbonetics.com is a good turbo source. They own 
>the Rajay name now and service and sell them. The Rajay is the turbo used 
>on the BAE single turbo kits. www.turbocity.com is another source for 
>rebuilds and rebuild kits.)
>
>
>I have an 83 with an early set of island turbos i.e. no cats...I have not
>been able to figure out if they are working right or not. When I accelerate
>or rev up the engine...the boost gauge drops to zero and recovers very
>slowly...also I get a putt putt sound when accelerating from a stopped
>position and it has pretty slow to pick up. I am not sure whether or not
>these units have any oil cooling at all...I have not seen any information
>that says they do nor have I noticed any oil lines traveling to them.
>
>I have not been able to find anyone I would trust to look at them...PJ 
>Grady
>told me he does not work on them any more and Calloway (Turbo Charged)
>Corvettes which is nearby also would not touch them ... additionally I
>contacted this woman Eleanor who used to market the kits after her husband
>passed away and she sent me some specification info but could not recommend
>anyone who could service them in New England...I have no idea whether these
>units are helping or hurting the car's performance.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Mike
>
>Michael W. Townsley
>2 Fox Hill Road
>Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
>860 304 2412
>townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Shepherd [mailto:chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 6:44 PM
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question
>
>I disagree. I've got an "Island" setup on my car and it has been on the car
>for 11 years. I've been the owner for 10. I pull into the garage and turn
>the engine off. I pull into a parking place and turn the engine off. The
>only time the turbos' come into play is when I'm passing someone or going 
>up
>a really steep grade at elevation, the Siskiou Summit for example. The rest
>of the time they are just idling along with no boost. Yes they are spinning
>but they are not generating any heat greater than the exhaust passing
>through them.There is no way I know of to cool them below the exhaust temp.
>before shutting the engine off anyway.
>
>David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:What I have seen, usually on
>race cars, is an accumulater type system
>that pumps up oil pressure while the motor is running and holds it so
>when you first start the motor up it supplies oil under pressure until
>the motor's oil pump can. They aren't usually filtered because of the
>large flows required. The oil also performs another important
>function, it cools the bearings, which is why you NEVER shut an engine
>equiped with a turbo right down, you should wait for the turbo to
>spool down and cool a little. If you don't the oil literaly cooks. It
>gets so bad that the drain cokes up and gets plugged up with burnt
>oil. When that happens you don't get a full flow of oil to the
>bearings and they burn up. You also MUST change the oil 2X more often
>with a turbo. It is also a good idea to use synthetic, it is more
>durable with the high temperatures. Even though synthetic is expensive
>the oil is cheaper than the turbos!
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B BENSON" wrote:
> > > Something that I've noticed with every single turbo >set up that I've
> > > seen installed is dirty oil being used to lube the >turbines. Weather
> > > it's a "T" inline from the oil pressure sending unit, or a >pickup
> > > line pulling oil directly from the sump. Why? If you >want to prolong
> > > the life of the turbos, retrofit your car to supply >CLEAN oil to the
> > > turbos.
> > >
> > > -Robert
> > > vin 6585 "X"
> >
> >
> >
> > Where else do you think you'd get oil from? The types of turbos used
>in the
> > kit's that were offered for DeLoreans are the type that float the
>impeller
> > shaft in oil which is flowing through holes in the bushing
>surrounding the
> > shaft. The life of that bushing can be measured in seconds if not
> > milliseconds if oil flow is inadequate or disrupted when under
>boost. Trying
> > to install filtering up stream of the turbo or trying to design a
>separate
> > source for the oil shouldn't even be considered as a part of the system.
> >
> > Bruce Benson
>
>
>
>
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>
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 16:25:29 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Manual Shifting Problms

I have the stainless steel clutch line and I bled my clutch last 
night but I still cannot get a good shift. It will shift and drive 
but it likes to be difficult and sometimes will not go into gear 
unless I pump my clutch a few times (especially reverse). Once I get 
going it shifts "OK" but when I stop it needs to be pumped again (Not 
all the time). Please help me with any advise. 

Thanks,
Adam Lee 
VIN 




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 17:20:31 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Firestar 500

Was there ever any sketches or models made for the Firestar 500?

I didn't even know the idea for the Firestar 500 even existed. 

You can read about it at this link.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8842/firestar.html

Thanks, 

Adam Lee
VIN# 1913





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 18:18:30 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

First off thanks for all the replies. They have been great.

On the question of waiting before turning the engine off, I have 
installed a Blitz turbo timer which senses how much the turbo has 
been working and has a time delay so that when you turn your key off 
the engine continues to run for some time, depending on how hard the 
turbos have been working. I like it a lot and is an extra security 
feature for the turbos.

As I am very knew to this, is anyone willing to provide me with their 
email address offline so that I can ask turbo related questions every 
now and then. I asked a local performance shop the same question I 
posted to this group and they said I should have no problem with 
installing a different spec turbo, needless to say that after the 
replies I received from this group I no longer can trust them.

Thanks
Max




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 11:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar 500

Hi Adam.  To my knowledge the Firestar 500 never went
any further than those renderings.  The Type S
prototype I'm building is probably the closest thing
to what the Firestar 500 would have been.  My type S
is 8" wider than a stock Delorean, with side air
intakes, a more modern front fascia and headlights,
18"/17" wheels, 13"/12.5" ventilated disks, the 3.0
EFI PRV engine and soon, an updated interior.  Check
out my site and shoot me an email if you have any
questions.


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 22:06:55 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Radio Wiring

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:46:18 -0400, Dom Diaz wrote:

> I'm installing a new radio in my D and have come across the
> following (thanks to Dan P. for helping me out so far):
> 
> I do not see a dimmer wire on the schematics for the car

>From experience I can tell you the Craig has NO dim-control wire.
If you've bought a modern radio with dimmer-wire, all you need
is a +12V source with the lights on to connect to your radio.
This dimms the lighting of your radio by a preset amount for
night time driving, so the lighting is less dazzling...

A convenient source for this signal is available under the
shifter-plate, either at the Dimmer or on the round plug
for the clock. It's a red wire with orange stripe,
the dimmer should have a couple of them...

If you're installing a modern high-power system I'd also recommend
installing a separate continous power-feed fused at the battery at
10 or 15 Amp. The original ignition-wire (lightgreen w/ white stripe)
can still be used for the new system as on modern radio's this is
only used as a signal wire, so close to no current is drawn on it.

Also remember to give your speakers separate ground-wires, so to
not interfere with the floating ground commonly used these days.

Good luck.

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 19:32:35 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Shifting Problms

Do you have to frequently fill the reservoir? Could still be air in
the line, could be a bad/leaky master or slave cylinder, or a bad/leaky
fitting connection somewhere along the way. Are you sure no air got in
during bleeding process? -Dani B. 5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> I have the stainless steel clutch line and I bled my clutch last 
> night but I still cannot get a good shift. It will shift and drive 
> but it likes to be difficult and sometimes will not go into gear 
> unless I pump my clutch a few times (especially reverse). Once I
get 
> going it shifts "OK" but when I stop it needs to be pumped again
(Not 
> all the time). Please help me with any advise. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Adam Lee 
> VIN




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 15:30:29 -0500
From: "Ancira Internet Department" <awolf_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: VIN 878

VIN 878 is on Ebay right now, and that's exactly the car I want. Is someone
near Santa Fe, NM that can maybe take a look at it for me? Or, is anyone
familiar with the car?

Alex Wolf
#4608
 



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 21:51:09 -0000
From: "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: cold starting

on a cold start I have to turn the key two times first for a couple
revolutions and off then it starts instantly.
It will not start on the first time.
I may be losing fuel pressure when shut down but where?

Mannyone




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 21:54:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Shifting Problms

Watch the clutch fork from above as someone else activates and holds
the pedal. If it moves in sync with the pedal and remains engaged
thereafter, your problem isn't in the hydraulics.

You can watch the throw out bearing and clutch fork through access
holes in the side of the bellhousing (remove the drive axles). Ensure
the bearing is properly seated on the fork, rides against the pressure
plate fingers at all times, and moves evenly from both sides (clutch
fork pivoting normally).

Lift the rear wheels off the ground and engage the clutch. With the
transmission in gear you should be able to freely spin the wheels and
just barely hear the clutch disc swooshing against the pressure plate.

If car passes these tests, you've either got a problem with the shift
linkage itself or perhaps the synchronizers are broken.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I have the stainless steel clutch line and I bled my clutch last 
> night but I still cannot get a good shift. It will shift and drive 
> but it likes to be difficult and sometimes will not go into gear 
> unless I pump my clutch a few times (especially reverse). Once I get 
> going it shifts "OK" but when I stop it needs to be pumped again (Not 
> all the time). Please help me with any advise. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Adam Lee 
> VIN




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 23:49:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

When my friend bought #2727 some numpty had plumbed the boost gauge into 
the intake portion of the pipework, so it never read above zero either. 
Make sure the gauge is connected to the back of the intake manifold (LH 
side)

Simple stuff first!

Martin

Marc Levy wrote:

>If the boost gage does not go above zero (showing
>boost) then you have a problem.
>  
>





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 00:15:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: cold starting

You are "supposed" to hold the gas pedal down 1/4 while starting the
motor. Some cars are more sensitive than others and most don't require
this. You could also have a problem with the cold start valve system.
Check if the cold start valve is getting power the next time you try
to start cold while cranking, you should see 12 volts on the valve.
The cold start valve could also be plugged up or defective (not very
likely). It might also be that you need a tune-up. How long has it
been? If you don't know, than it has been too long. Worn spark plugs
and old, bad ignition wires can cause this symptom.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> on a cold start I have to turn the key two times first for a couple
> revolutions and off then it starts instantly.
> It will not start on the first time.
> I may be losing fuel pressure when shut down but where?
> 
> Mannyone




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