From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2142
Date: Thursday, July 29, 2004 3:03 AM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: Oil Pressure Guage
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Firestar 500
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

4. For sale ads
From: "rflrkv" <rflrkv_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Manual Shifting Problms
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. ac question
From: "standalonedump" <stingray1963_at_dml_gmx.de>

7. Re: Re: Firestar 500
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Door Lock Relays
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

9. emmissions test failed
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

10. Re: emmissions test failed
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

11. Re: emmissions test failed
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

12. Re: Door Lock Relays
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

13. Re: Door Lock Relays
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Door Lock Relays
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Installing LEDs in the AC panel
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. On the road again
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

17. New Alternator
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Door Lock Relays
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

19. Re: ac question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. cold starting
From: "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 23:11:34 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

 From what i see of VIN#502 the boost guage's are on both intake runners 
near the air horns, there are 2 boost guage's inside the car. Unless 
the 2 thin plastic lines are for something else and i cant see what 
else they could be for.

I had the same thing on my 1992 Mustang GT when i supercharged it, the 
guys at Paxton said do it that way so i did.

Mark V



On Tuesday, July 27, 2004, at 05:49  PM, Martin Gutkowski wrote:

> When my friend bought #2727 some numpty had plumbed the boost gauge 
> into
> the intake portion of the pipework, so it never read above zero either.
> Make sure the gauge is connected to the back of the intake manifold (LH
> side)
>
> Simple stuff first!
>
> Martin
>
> Marc Levy wrote:
>
>> If the boost gage does not go above zero (showing
>> boost) then you have a problem.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 10:43:40 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Guage

In a message dated 7/26/04 1:51:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net writes:


> I know I've seen this post before but could not find it.  When 
> idling, my oil guage jumps all over the place but when driving it is 
> normal.  Is it the oil pressure sending unit that causes this 
> fluctuation and needs replacement?
> 
> Thanks!

If you have the OEM sending unit, replace it with the new version and see if 
that helps.  if you still don't think it looks right, bring it to a shop that 
has a mechanical oil pressure gauge and have them verify on their equipment 
that your oil pressure is good.  the oil pressure specs are found in the shop 
manual in the first chapter.

Good luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:23:28 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Firestar 500

Actually, there was additional work done on the FireStar 500
concept, beyond the renderings that were shown to the public.

I spoke to Marvin Katz at the DMCH Open House 2003.  Marvin
was the owner of KAPAC in the 80's and 90's when KAPAC was
the owner of all the items leftover from the Delorean factory
including the inventory of Delorean parts now owned by DMCH.

>From my conversations with Marvin, I heard details of the
modified Chevy V8 engine being tested in both turbo charged
and supercharged setups (decision in '86 was supercharging).
One of the V8 engines that resided in the Ohio warehouse for
a while had a nicely detailed aluminum rocker arm covers with
the DMC logo embossed in the centers.  Marvin had commented
that it was very nice CNC work done on an engine that would
most likely have been at an upcoming trade show.

Marvin had some stories about the mock-ups that were being
worked on in California, but the only solid evidence that
he saw personally was the engine(s) that either made their
way through or stayed briefly at the Ohio warehouse.

Marvin had a scheduling conflict with the DCS 2004 and he
was not able to attend, but I'm sure Ken K. has invited
him again for DCS 2006.  Marvin has family in the Chicago
area, so I'm sure there is a good chance he will be here
for the show.  In addition to the FS 500, Marvin has a lot
of very interesting stories about the DMC early years.

As a side note, the Delorean community owes Marvin a debt
of gratitude for acquiring and managing the DMC inventory
for many, many years.  DMCH would certainly not be what it
is today if it were not for Marvin Katz and the KAPAC Co.

As for the FireStar 500, unless someone comes really close
with the exterior looks and is powered by 500+ HP V8 engine,
comparisons to the FS 500 should be saved for a much closer
match to the original intent.  (BTW: I'm working on it.)

Later,
Rich W. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Stankiewicz 
<protodelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi Adam.  To my knowledge the Firestar 500 never went
> any further than those renderings.  The Type S
> prototype I'm building is probably the closest thing
> to what the Firestar 500 would have been.  My type S
> is 8" wider than a stock Delorean, with side air
> intakes, a more modern front fascia and headlights,
> 18"/17" wheels, 13"/12.5" ventilated disks, the 3.0
> EFI PRV engine and soon, an updated interior.  Check
> out my site and shoot me an email if you have any
> questions.
> 
> 
> =====
> Steve
> 
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 19:23:05 -0000
From: "rflrkv" <rflrkv_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: For sale ads

 My problem is simply; I can't figure out how to take my ad off 
the "d"s for sale list. Richard Lowery




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 19:25:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Shifting Problms

If you are not leaking fluid out of the clutch master cylinder or
slave, then it sounds like you have not bled all the air out of the
system. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 19:41:14 -0000
From: "standalonedump" <stingray1963_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: ac question

hello list,

my name is oliver and i am from germany. my car is vin 4575, 
formerly owned by dave and melissa sly (iowa).
the car is running very well and is reliable but i have one problem. 
the ac is permanently switching on and off. it has been refilled a 
few weeks ago, which has stopped the problem for a few days but now 
the same problem as before. maybe it is helpfull to know that the ac 
is not switching on and off as long as the car is  running on idle, 
i will start switching only while driving. any ideas?

thanks and regards,
oliver

off list:  info_at_dml_gullwings.net





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 13:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Firestar 500

A CHEVY V8?  That's about as boring and cliche as it
gets.  Practical? Yes.  Interesting or original? No.
But throw some Cragers and a hood scoop on it too and
you got a deal!

(By the way, I am a Chevy guy!)  ;  )


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:00:19 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Door Lock Relays

I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto the 
lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last week 
and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.

Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I found 
might work?

It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only $.50 
each they won't break the bank!

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store

Let me know what you think.

Johnny
5518




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 12:55:46 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: emmissions test failed

Hey everyone,
        Well, my 2-year emissions test has come and gone, 3 times now,
without success.  The first time I ran it through, it failed for CO....AZ
limit is 20 grams/mile and I tested at 34.89.  The tester missed a few 2-3
shifts and ended up in 5th, giving it full throttle which I thought would
have made the difference since 2 years ago I passed with 11.84 grams/mile.
I insisted they retest it with a more competent driver and he registered
21.24 grams/mile...still a failure.
        I've spoken to a few D vendors and mechanics.  Since NOX and HC
readings are in line they all seemed my catgs were functioning properly and
that I was running too rich.  Makes sense since I am running the Island twin
turbo setup.  Funny how aside from a new alternator and air filter, I
haven't really touched the engine except for the oil changes.  The car has
about 10,000 miles on it since the last test.  So with the car running I
backed off the CO mixture screw about 1/12th of a turn-was advised 1/16th
but it's all guesswork for me.  Looks like it went from the one o'clock
position to the 12 o'clock.  I didn't notice any change in the idle or how
the car ran.
        Anyway,  I've driven the car about 50 miles since that and decided
to go back for a retest today.  It's about 15 miles from my house to the
testing facility on city streets so I know the car was well warmed up.  It
tested 31.23 grams/mile this time.  I'm at a loss....

So here's where I am:
Backed off the CO mixture screw about an 1/8th of a turn today.  Noticed
idle drop and ran rough for a second, then right back up to normal RPM's and
stable.  Added a bottle of Berryman's "Guaranteed to pass" stuff.  Hey, I
need all the help I can get.  Ran the car for another 30-45 minutes or so.
I want to run the tank down and fill with fresh 91 octane before going back
to test again.

Any other suggestions?  Is there something I am missing?  Something maybe
that would also contribute to abnormally high CO readings?  Any help is
greatly appreciated.  $27/test gets expensive when you keep failing.....


Thanks,
Matthew
VIN 16816




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:48:19 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: emmissions test failed

>
> Any other suggestions?  Is there something I am missing?  Something maybe
> that would also contribute to abnormally high CO readings?  Any help is
> greatly appreciated.  $27/test gets expensive when you keep failing.....
>
>
> Thanks,
> Matthew
> VIN 16816

Matthew,

In Ontario, where we have similar laws (though only on cars newer than 20
years old), it happens occasionally where the shops running the tests have
tweaked their equipment in such a way as to make sure you keep failing.

If it were me, and I've done all I could to figure it out, I'd go to another
shop and see what sort of response I get there.

Mark.
A Canucklehead in envy...





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:59:25 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: emmissions test failed

What about plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. After 10,000 miles it probably
needs a tune-up.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <az-d_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:55 PM
Subject: [DML] emmissions test failed


> Hey everyone,
>         Well, my 2-year emissions test has come and gone, 3 times now,
> without success.  The first time I ran it through, it failed for CO....AZ
> limit is 20 grams/mile and I tested at 34.89.  The tester missed a few 2-3
> shifts and ended up in 5th, giving it full throttle which I thought would
> have made the difference since 2 years ago I passed with 11.84 grams/mile.
> I insisted they retest it with a more competent driver and he registered
> 21.24 grams/mile...still a failure.





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 22:47:44 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Relays

Johnny,

Why not buy them from John Hervey? 

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html

$10 each and they're the exact relays you need. 

While you're at it, you might consider replacing those bulky solenoids
with new, lower power actuators. Even if you replace your relays, the
solenoids will eventually burn them out again. The actuator
replacements will solve this problem once and for all. $100 does both
doors:

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K1007DP&Category_Code=

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto the 
> lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last week 
> and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.
> 
> Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I found 
> might work?
> 
> It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only $.50 
> each they won't break the bank!
> 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
> category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 23:28:40 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Relays

Johnny,

The relays are 12V and the coil resistance is 85 ohms nominal. I 
doubt the relays you sourced would work.

By the way, I recently rebuilt my lock module, mostly following the 
instructions on how to rebuild the lock module in the technical 
section of DMCNEWS.com. 

I would not put those underrated relays back in the lock module. I 
used 40A standard automotive relays and mounted them in the relay 
compartment. The new relays are controlled by the lock module.

It is very important you check the condition of your door lock 
solenoids. I have some pictures I can direct you to of burnt 
solenoids - the direct result of sticky relays in the lock module. 
You may need to rewind your solenoids also.

Let me know if you want more details.

-Brian
VIN#4494

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto the 
> lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last 
week 
> and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.
> 
> Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I found 
> might work?
> 
> It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only 
$.50 
> each they won't break the bank!
> 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
> category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 23:59:51 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Relays

Why not just buy the correct ones from John Hervey?
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto the 
> lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last 
week 
> and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.
> 
> Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I found 
> might work?
> 
> It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only 
$.50 
> each they won't break the bank!
> 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
> category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Installing LEDs in the AC panel

When I installed Ba7s in my AC panel one bulb was so far back in the panel I could not get the old bulb out. It was clear that if I tried it would get pushed behind the AC panel and since I was short one bulb I elected to leave it for later. I reordered another Ba7 and have discovered a simple, quick and easy way to bring a recessed socket forward in the AC panel. Using a hooked dental pick, insert the hooked tip in the small notch in the side if the socket. There is a notch on each side of the socket base that the bulb fits in when inserting a new bulb. Since you twist the bulb to hold it tight, this notch is empty. By applying slight pressure toward the side of the socket as you pull outward, the whole base moves forward. Pull it out until you get it to the point that you can remove the old bulb. If you don't have a hooked dental pick you can find them on Ebay for about $10 a mixed set, or ask your friendly dentist to let you have one of his cast-offs. You will discover lots of
 uses for them. I do not sell dental picks, nor am I a dentist.

		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 02:00:45 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: On the road again

03513 was on the road again today after being in storage for almost 
4 years, lots of fuel work, clutch, and brake work had to be done.I 
wish to thank all of the great guys on line here who helped me with 
this task. The job isn't complete it runs rough as a cob, front end 
has a shake in it, and of course the air is dead.But the dream lives 
I am back on the road, the details I will work out with your help of 
course.
Andy Blackmon the 23 year owner of # 03513




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 02:20:42 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: New Alternator

I just put in one of John Hervey's 140 alternators and I got two 
questions I hope someone could answer. First, when I turn on the A/C 
the lights still dim and when I give it gas the belt will squeal. Did 
I tighten the belt to the A/C too much or not enough? Or is it 
something else? Second, I had the Motorola in there and when I would 
turn the car off the battery light would turn on for a second but now 
since I replaced it the battery light won't come on for a second 
anymore when I shut it off. Was there something wrong with my old 
alternator that would make the light come on when I'm shutting the 
car off or was that normal? Thanks for any replies.

Mike
5623




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:18:53 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Relays

I didn't even know he had those!  The ones on my module are not 
stuck, but I know I should probably replace them anyway.  So much 
for my "clever" surfing!  Ahh well, that's why I post before I jump.

I have the lock module tech notes printed out from dmcnews and plan 
to follow them for the replacement parts on the circuit board.

One question about that, does that mean the module won't send stored 
current to the solenoids and fry them after this fix?  Or is this 
just one of those "do it because you can" mods?

I don't think my solenoids are shot just yet because they both 
unlock from outside the passenger door.  At least I'm hoping they're 
not.  If they are, I'm definately going to get the actuators simply 
because of cost.  The module itself doesn't smell burned either.

Funny after looking at the back of this circuit, it looks rather 
amateur.

Johnny
5518


> Why not just buy the correct ones from John Hervey?
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto 
the 
> > lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last 
> week 
> > and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.
> > 
> > Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I 
found 
> > might work?
> > 
> > It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only 
> $.50 
> > each they won't break the bank!
> > 
> > http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
> > category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store
> > 
> > Let me know what you think.
> > 
> > Johnny
> > 5518




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:45:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: ac question

If you filled it and it was OK for a while and now it is acting up
again it sounds like you have a leak and you really need to fix it
instead of constantly refilling the system. Have the system pressure
tested, find and fix all leaks, drain and refill the compressor with
fresh oil, and maybe replace the accumulater/dryer. Replace the
service valve cores. Have the shop pull a hard vacuum and hold it for
at least an hour before recharging. Also make sure the condensor coil
is clean, that is, it is not plugged up with leaves and debris and
that both fans are working, blowing in the right direction (front to
back) the fans are tight on the shafts, the circuit breaker for the
fans is uprated so it isn't cutting out, and the cooling system for
the motor is in good shape. The A/C is tested with the inside fan on
high speed and the motor should be running over 1000 RPM. The A/C
cannot be properly tested for performance at idle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "standalonedump" <stingray1963_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> hello list,
> 
> my name is oliver and i am from germany. my car is vin 4575, 
> formerly owned by dave and melissa sly (iowa).
> the car is running very well and is reliable but i have one problem. 
> the ac is permanently switching on and off. it has been refilled a 
> few weeks ago, which has stopped the problem for a few days but now 
> the same problem as before. maybe it is helpfull to know that the ac 
> is not switching on and off as long as the car is  running on idle, 
> i will start switching only while driving. any ideas?
> 
> thanks and regards,
> oliver
> 
> off list:  info_at_dml_g...




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:07:07 -0000
From: "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: cold starting

Thanks for the reply David T
My DMC vin 20020 Always started instantly and I mean so instantly 
that I could'nt hear the starter cranking, without holding down the
acc pedal 1/4 and anyhow I tried it and it still did'nt start
I took off the cold start valve and held it while someone turned the
start key and it sprayed a nice wide pattern.
I had recently replaced the dist cap,rotor.spark plugs and ignition 
wiring.and the engine runs beautifully but i still have to hit the
ign key two times to start.The second time it starts instantly like
it used to on the first try.
It seems the problem is elsewhere.
I suspect the CPR.

This is a great Newsgroup for DMC owners and Ive learned a lot here
Thank you all.




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:49:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Refinishing the Binnacle

I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
Don't suggest a dash cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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