From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2143
Date: Thursday, July 29, 2004 8:36 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

3. Refinishing the Binnacle
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Digest Number 2142
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

5. Re: emmissions test failed
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

6. RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

7. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: cold starting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

10. Re: Digest Number 2142
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

12. Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

13. RE: New Alternator
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

16. Re: Digest Number 2142
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

18. RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

20. Shock length
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: ac question
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

23. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

24. Re: New Alternator
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

25. Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:35:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

I agree with you David, dash mats just aren't an option for a cracked dash. My father had some sort of a resin filler material that I almost tried on my car when I redyed my binnacle last year. But alas I chickened out. In theory you could use the filler to fill in the cracks, and then spray on the proper code of dye and have a decent looking fix. My biggest concern was the new resin expanding and contracting in temperatures differently than the binnacle itself. I might try it the next time I go to my parents house since my binnacle really can't be harmed much more than it is. I'll post my findings to the list if I give it a try. Also, as of last year DMC-Texas was trying to get the binnacles remade and sell them for $200... but I've heard no word since on whether or not this will come to fruition. 

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


--- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
Don't suggest a dash cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 05:52:18 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

Welp, so far in my car, I've recovered my dash, all 3 kneepads, the 
2 rear quarter trim panels, and the 2 A-posts with new vinyl.  My 
recommendation for the binnacle is that you strip all the old vinyl 
off of it, fill the cracks with RTV, smoothing it out as you apply 
it.  Then, recover it with new vinyl.  
I'm not sure where you live, but if you have a JoAnn Fabrics, go 
look for some "whisper vinyl" in the color of your interior.  It 
will cost $11.99 a yard.  If you have the gray interior, you may 
want to purchase the white whisper vinyl and then dye it with the 
grey dye everyone else uses on their interiors.  It stretches VERY 
nicely (especially when heated) and has a quilted backing.  I've 
been using Weldwood contact cement to adhere it and it's never 
failed me yet.  The shape of the binnacle should not be a problem to 
stretch a single piece of vinyl over, providing you take your time 
and use a hairdryer.  You can do it, and it will cost you about $17 
total for a brand-new-looking binnacle.

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up 
their
> binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked 
up
> and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
> right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better 
idea?
> Don't suggest a dash cover.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 06:50:46 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Refinishing the Binnacle

 
 
Dave,
 
I refinished my own with gray naugahyde from Joanne's Fabrics.  It has  only 
one seam in the center on the bottom by the steering column.  The  hardest 
part was replacing the black bezel which I had to cut to make it  smaller.  The 
hard part was holding the bezel in place while the  glue dried.
 
Dave & 6530


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:49:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Refinishing the Binnacle

I  would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up  their
binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked  up
and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it  (and
right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better  idea?
Don't suggest a dash cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin  10757





Thank  you,

Dave



"Just Say  NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"ģ


To see how go to _www.tvpedaler.com_ (http://www.tvpedaler.com/)   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 13:08:25 +0200 (CEST)
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2142

Why a dental pick ???
Laying in the foot compartment with a arm behind the center console you
can fix the sockets

Klaus & 05980
with LEDs in door, interior lamps and center panel
and red bulbs in instrument cluster, because LEDs are not bright
enough

> Message: 15        
>    Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> Subject: Installing LEDs in the AC panel
> 
> When I installed Ba7s in my AC panel one bulb was so far
> back in the panel I could not get the old bulb out. It
> was clear that if I tried it would get pushed behind the
> AC panel and since I was short one bulb I elected to
> leave it for later. I reordered another Ba7 and have
> discovered a simple, quick and easy way to bring a
> recessed socket forward in the AC panel. Using a hooked
> dental pick, insert the hooked tip in the small notch in
> the side if the socket. There is a notch on each side of
> the socket base that the bulb fits in when inserting a
> new bulb. Since you twist the bulb to hold it tight, this
> notch is empty. By applying slight pressure toward the
> side of the socket as you pull outward, the whole base
> moves forward. Pull it out until you get it to the point
> that you can remove the old bulb. If you don't have a
> hooked dental pick you can find them on Ebay for about
> $10 a mixed set, or ask your friendly dentist to let you
> have one of his cast-offs. You will discover lots of
>  uses for them. I do not sell dental picks, nor am I a
> dentist.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 12:01:34 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: emmissions test failed

Hi

Yes thats just what i was gonna say....

Looking at the stuff i have in front of me thats the best way to go

Regards

Mike
#2001
doc403

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> What about plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. After 10,000 miles it 
probably
> needs a tune-up.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_c...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <az-d_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:55 PM
> Subject: [DML] emmissions test failed
> 
> 
> > Hey everyone,
> >         Well, my 2-year emissions test has come and gone, 3 times 
now,
> > without success.  The first time I ran it through, it failed for 
CO....AZ
> > limit is 20 grams/mile and I tested at 34.89.  The tester missed 
a few 2-3
> > shifts and ended up in 5th, giving it full throttle which I 
thought would
> > have made the difference since 2 years ago I passed with 11.84 
grams/mile.
> > I insisted they retest it with a more competent driver and he 
registered
> > 21.24 grams/mile...still a failure.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 08:24:49 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

What is RTV?

Jack


 
>....My recommendation for the binnacle is that you strip all the old vinyl 
>off of it, fill the cracks with RTV, smoothing it out as you apply 
>it.  Then, recover it with new vinyl.............  
>Matt
>#1604





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 13:20:49 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

Josh Haldeman sells recovered dashes and binnacles, core require of
course. I got mine from him and am greatly pleased with the way it
looks. Contact him up.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
> binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
> and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
> right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
> Don't suggest a dash cover.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 13:49:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: cold starting

The CPR really isn't doing much when actually starting the motor when
cold. The motor is really starting on the cold start system and the
ignition system. If the cold start valve is spraying then maybe you
have a problem in the ignition system. Check the ballast resistor and
the bypass relay and it's circuitry to be sure that it is working. In
theory (and practice if it's working) the bypass relay jumps out a
portion of the ballast resistor to give you a hotter spark when
cranking. If this problem happened just after you replaced some parts
then maybe you need to go over that work again. Make sure all the
spark plug wires are snapped tight onto the spark plugs. If you
stretched one of the wires you may have damaged it and now it has
failed. The insides of the ignition wires is rather fragile and will
break if you pull on them. You won't see it from the outside. The CPR
is also know as the warm-up regulater becasue that is really what it
does, it controls the fuel system during warm-up. It has a minimal
effect on the cold start system. Another thing you can try is turn the
key on and off without cranking the motor a couple of times. Then try
starting it. If that helps let me know.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "likl3189" <likl3189_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the reply David T
> My DMC vin 20020 Always started instantly and I mean so instantly 
> that I could'nt hear the starter cranking, without holding down the
> acc pedal 1/4 and anyhow I tried it and it still did'nt start
> I took off the cold start valve and held it while someone turned the
> start key and it sprayed a nice wide pattern.
> I had recently replaced the dist cap,rotor.spark plugs and ignition 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 15:36:29 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

Yes im supprised that no one has come up with a binicle / dash cover 
that fits / sticks over the exisitng one in situ

Especially the binicles they must all be the same size........


mike


bozzzy
#2001
doc403




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 08:41:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2142

Or perhaps you could read the howto on the center console removal and fix en too, also addressing any other issues behind there.  Yes it is possible to lay on the floorboard and reach behind there, i tried that.  The removal proved to be easier.
 
ummm which seems to be down right now...   so ill be back from spain tommorrow and see what wrong with the server..
 
meanwhile, someone may have saved it offline.
 
jordan
11613
http://retroserver.no-ip.com
 
 
 
 


klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de wrote:
Why a dental pick ???
Laying in the foot compartment with a arm behind the center console you
can fix the sockets

Klaus & 05980
with LEDs in door, interior lamps and center panel
and red bulbs in instrument cluster, because LEDs are not bright
enough

> Message: 15 
> Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Rod Dillman 
> Subject: Installing LEDs in the AC panel
> 
> When I installed Ba7s in my AC panel one bulb was so far
> back in the panel I could not get the old bulb out. It
> was clear that if I tried it would get pushed behind the
> AC panel and since I was short one bulb I elected to
> leave it for later. I reordered another Ba7 and have
> discovered a simple, quick and easy way to bring a
> recessed socket forward in the AC panel. Using a hooked
> dental pick, insert the hooked tip in the small notch in
> the side if the socket. There is a notch on each side of
> the socket base that the bulb fits in when inserting a
> new bulb. Since you twist the bulb to hold it tight, this
> notch is empty. By applying slight pressure toward the
> side of the socket as you pull outward, the whole base
> moves forward. Pull it out until you get it to the point
> that you can remove the old bulb. If you don't have a
> hooked dental pick you can find them on Ebay for about
> $10 a mixed set, or ask your friendly dentist to let you
> have one of his cast-offs. You will discover lots of
> uses for them. I do not sell dental picks, nor am I a
> dentist.



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 10:38:54 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

I just got mine back from a local upholstery shop here in Hampton, VA. Nice
job but vinyl doesn't match rest of dash. I should have bought the material
first. Cost $150, seam around front edge and center seam on bottom by
steering column. He covered over the black plastic completely.

Dave Sontos
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 11:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Refinishing the Binnacle


> I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
> binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
> and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
> right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
> Don't suggest a dash cover.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 16:02:34 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

Hiya All

GOing to be updating the relays and fuses in my car very soon and 
notice my cars not fitted with any fan relay fix of any kind, whats 
peoples opinion on the kits available they seem to range in price and 
actual claims as to what they do

Thanks All 


Mike


bozzzy
Hull, Uk
doc403
#2001




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 16:37:47 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: New Alternator

Hey Mike.
I had a heck of a time when I installed my 140 hervey alt.
the first time I put it on and we started the car up, there was this god 
aweful noise that sounded like shreaking from slaughtering pigs or 
something. lol.
I guess what had happened was that the best was getting tied up around the 
alt, because the alt
was not spinning. this is caused by the 3 bolt design of the alt. what you 
have to do is take the alt back off the car, and tighten the bolts in a way 
that when the best pulls on the pully, that it doesnt put pressure on one 
side of the alt. so when you tighten the alt, make sure you have even 
pressure on all the lugs. what I had to do was tighten 2 lugs really tight, 
and leave one on the not so tight side, so when the best was tightened up, 
it pulled the loose one back into place.
it seemed like the blades on the inside were catching before I did all this, 
but after I reworked the bolts, it worked out fine. it just takes a lot of 
fine tuneing.
my lights still dim even with the 140 that I have, when the AC cycles. I 
thought when I bought that, that it would get rid of that dimming, but I 
guess thats what fan zilla is for. so Im on the list for that now.
good luck to ya.

Dustin
006746


>From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] New Alternator
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 02:20:42 -0000
>
>I just put in one of John Hervey's 140 alternators and I got two
>questions I hope someone could answer. First, when I turn on the A/C
>the lights still dim and when I give it gas the belt will squeal. Did
>I tighten the belt to the A/C too much or not enough? Or is it
>something else? Second, I had the Motorola in there and when I would
>turn the car off the battery light would turn on for a second but now
>since I replaced it the battery light won't come on for a second
>anymore when I shut it off. Was there something wrong with my old
>alternator that would make the light come on when I'm shutting the
>car off or was that normal? Thanks for any replies.
>
>Mike
>5623
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 10:36:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

After talking with Dick Ryan (a.k.a. Raddad) I had my binnacle re-covered in
Vinyl for $85 at a local upholstery shop. I was going to do leather but the
upholstery shop owner showed me vinyl that looked like leather for 1/2 the cost.
It now has seems on the side but I don't mind, I was more concerned with
longevity. If you can't find anyone local I can get you the info. on where I
went.

I know Josh Haldeman & Ken Koncelik have a guy in Cinnci that covers them without
seams if you want to check with them.

Shannon Y
16506 

-------------


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 03:49:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Refinishing the Binnacle

I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
Don't suggest a dash cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


		
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 14:36:25 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) Silicon Gasket.  It comes in caulk or
toothpaste tubes and is used for gaskets and caulking.

Scott Mueller 002981

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Singer [mailto:jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 7:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Refinishing the Binnacle


What is RTV?

Jack


 
>....My recommendation for the binnacle is that you strip all the old 
>vinyl
>off of it, fill the cracks with RTV, smoothing it out as you apply 
>it.  Then, recover it with new vinyl.............  
>Matt
>#1604




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 12:40:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2142

The server is back up... heres a direct link
 
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/centerconsole.html
 
 
jordan 
11613

jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Or perhaps you could read the howto on the center console removal and fix en too, also addressing any other issues behind there. Yes it is possible to lay on the floorboard and reach behind there, i tried that. The removal proved to be easier.

ummm which seems to be down right now... so ill be back from spain tommorrow and see what wrong with the server..

meanwhile, someone may have saved it offline.

jordan
11613
http://retroserver.no-ip.com






klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de wrote:
Why a dental pick ???
Laying in the foot compartment with a arm behind the center console you
can fix the sockets

Klaus & 05980
with LEDs in door, interior lamps and center panel
and red bulbs in instrument cluster, because LEDs are not bright
enough

> Message: 15 
> Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Rod Dillman 
> Subject: Installing LEDs in the AC panel
> 
> When I installed Ba7s in my AC panel one bulb was so far
> back in the panel I could not get the old bulb out. It
> was clear that if I tried it would get pushed behind the
> AC panel and since I was short one bulb I elected to
> leave it for later. I reordered another Ba7 and have
> discovered a simple, quick and easy way to bring a
> recessed socket forward in the AC panel. Using a hooked
> dental pick, insert the hooked tip in the small notch in
> the side if the socket. There is a notch on each side of
> the socket base that the bulb fits in when inserting a
> new bulb. Since you twist the bulb to hold it tight, this
> notch is empty. By applying slight pressure toward the
> side of the socket as you pull outward, the whole base
> moves forward. Pull it out until you get it to the point
> that you can remove the old bulb. If you don't have a
> hooked dental pick you can find them on Ebay for about
> $10 a mixed set, or ask your friendly dentist to let you
> have one of his cast-offs. You will discover lots of
> uses for them. I do not sell dental picks, nor am I a
> dentist.



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links







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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 20:09:49 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing.  It's really a class of sealants
that cure at room temperature when exposed to air.  Silicone is usually
the base material in the stuff.  You can get it in various colors.

In my opinion, RTV is not suitable for any automotive application as 
it is not permanent, dissolves in many of the fluids present in an 
engine bay, is a poor adhesive, and is not temperature stable.  There 
are many application-specific potions and goos that are much better 
than RTV.  Ask at a real automotive supply house (NOT Pep Boys, 
Checker, etc.).  Describe your particular problem and they will be 
able to provide the correct product for the job.  

--
Mike<

 -------------- Original message from "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>: --------------
>
> What is RTV?
> 
> Jack
> 



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 15:18:14 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

There are two options.
John Herver and John Hervey.

You could buy a "FanZilla" if you can find one.
These are the most popular, however John Hervey sells his own version of 
these
and at a good price too.
I have never heard anyone complain.

One of his bigger alternators might also help.

However, rather than just putting a band-aid on the problem there is another 
route.
You can replace the fans altogether.
Herver sells a whole shroud with two modern ball-bearing fans that pull HALF 
the juice
and do the same job.
I have them on my car.

I went the extra step and also got his rediator which is bigger that the 
original (thicker)
and is all metal instead of plastic.

The new fans are so quiet you can barely hear them and they work like a 
modern car would.
They don't bog down the juice and you will nevver even know when they go on 
or off.

His website is http://www.specialtauto.com

- Videobob

>From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 16:02:34 -0000
>
>Hiya All
>
>GOing to be updating the relays and fuses in my car very soon and
>notice my cars not fitted with any fan relay fix of any kind, whats
>peoples opinion on the kits available they seem to range in price and
>actual claims as to what they do
>
>Thanks All
>
>
>Mike
>
>
>bozzzy
>Hull, Uk
>doc403
>#2001
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 13:23:36 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

You could go with Fanzilla if you wish. It's a great product but the only
downside is the price. You can check out pjgrady.com for more information
about it's features.

John Hervey sells the Fan Fix at specialtauto.com. It's a different design
but a good way to go if you're trying to save some money. He stands behind
the product if you ever have problems. It also lights up your cooling fan
fail warning light whenever the fans are on so you can see when they are
actually being powered.

Payne
#2975
> Hiya All
>
> GOing to be updating the relays and fuses in my car very soon and
> notice my cars not fitted with any fan relay fix of any kind, whats
> peoples opinion on the kits available they seem to range in price and
> actual claims as to what they do
>
> Thanks All
>
>
> Mike
>



---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 21:23:58 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Shock length

Hi, Does anyone have an original shock that they could measure the 
length of for me please? (top of thread to centre of mounting hole) 
I am purchasing some new shocks here in australia and the company 
can limit the travel to what ever i want. At the moment the ones in 
there (after market)allow the lower suspention arms to hit the 
frame. Thankyou in advance Nick 10927- sydney




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 17:38:46 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring

Mike: 

The easiest way is to splice it into the brake light wire that is on the 
passenger's side and then run it along the side of the passenger's side rear panel 
and under the rubber.   (The rubber strip that dampens the rear louver that 
is on the rear fender).   

You can do a simple splice by using of those simple "clip on splicers."   I 
done it that way.   You can also do it the "long way" by cutting the original 
supply wire to the brake light board and use a terminal crimping all the wires 
together.   Then tuck the new third wire inside the "u" channel area of the 
rubber running along the the under side of top louver, right up to the third 
brake light housing.   At this point you can also add a "connecting plug" with 
one end of the plug to the third light unit and the other end to the wire.   So, 
in case you need to take off the louver; you can just unplug the connectors 
without cutting the wire.

Kayo

==========================================================================

In a message dated 7/22/04 9:03:31 PM, yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com writes:


> Hi Everyone. I purchased a 3rd brake light from a GM dealer (from '86
> Vette) and was trying to figure out how to run the wires to splice
> into the taillight.
> 
> The light will sit on the top louver and the wires will go through a
> small hole to run forward into the rear screen (the part you remove
> to adjust the torsion bars). I have a small mail/female connector
> which I was going to hide just inside the light housing. That way if
> the louvers have to come off it would be simple to disconnect. From
> the light the wire is a smooth black (18/2) cable about 1/4" in
> diameter.
> 
> Any suggestions on where to run the wire from there? I have not had
> the t-panel off so I am not sure the best way to get it to the tail
> light. I am guessing that finding a ground is no problem but I am
> open to suggestions on that too.
> 
> - Mike
> #17084
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 00:02:16 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: ac question

On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 19:41:14 -0000, Oliver wrote:

> the ac is permanently switching on and off. it has been refilled a
> few weeks ago, which has stopped the problem for a few days but now
> the same problem as before. maybe it is helpfull to know that the ac
> is not switching on and off as long as the car is  running on idle,
> i will start switching only while driving. any ideas?

Isn't the system simply cycling as it should be doing?

When pressur in the system gets at a certain point the compressor
disengages and then when it has reached a certain low point it
cuts in again to pressurise everything again.

Works exactly like a refridgerator, only mobile. And you
don't hear your fridge running constantly either, or do you!?

See if you can influence the intervals between the on and off state
by playing with your engine rpm and/or the fan speed settings.
If you are able to do so the system is probably OK.

In my experience the system engages continously at idle and cycles
on for about 10 seconds then off for little over 30 seconds,
driving on the highway, fanspeed at 2 or 3 and doing about 130kmh.
It's been like that for the last year or so, when I got it recharged...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 17:04:53 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

hey guys,

what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric.  It is a
neat idea.  I wanted an opinion.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=7913654014&category=33741&sspagename=WDVW

will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit a k&N air
filter setup.  it looks like a 3 inch tube like a cold air system and
replaces our box system.

Thanks,

Joseph M
vin 2850


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question


> When my friend bought #2727 some numpty had plumbed the boost gauge into
> the intake portion of the pipework, so it never read above zero either.
> Make sure the gauge is connected to the back of the intake manifold (LH
> side)
>
> Simple stuff first!
>
> Martin
>
> Marc Levy wrote:
>
> >If the boost gage does not go above zero (showing
> >boost) then you have a problem.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 17:24:03 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New Alternator

Funny my lights do not dim with my D110 from John Hervey nor did i have 
any of these mounting problems you all have that posted. I hope you 
read the instructions that came with the alternator first.

First thing to do is clean all ground connections, battery connections 
and your dimming should go away. Second thing to do is when you have a 
problem with any part you bought from any vendor you should ask the 
vendor you bought it from first before posting to the list because they 
are the one to ask when you have a problem with their product.

Mark V



On Thursday, July 29, 2004, at 11:37  AM, Dustin Dewey wrote:

> Hey Mike.
> I had a heck of a time when I installed my 140 hervey alt.
> the first time I put it on and we started the car up, there was this 
> god
> aweful noise that sounded like shreaking from slaughtering pigs or
> something. lol.
> I guess what had happened was that the best was getting tied up around 
> the
> alt, because the alt
> was not spinning. this is caused by the 3 bolt design of the alt. what 
> you
> have to do is take the alt back off the car, and tighten the bolts in 
> a way
> that when the best pulls on the pully, that it doesnt put pressure on 
> one
> side of the alt. so when you tighten the alt, make sure you have even
> pressure on all the lugs. what I had to do was tighten 2 lugs really 
> tight,
> and leave one on the not so tight side, so when the best was tightened 
> up,
> it pulled the loose one back into place.
> it seemed like the blades on the inside were catching before I did all 
> this,
> but after I reworked the bolts, it worked out fine. it just takes a 
> lot of
> fine tuneing.
> my lights still dim even with the 140 that I have, when the AC cycles. 
> I
> thought when I bought that, that it would get rid of that dimming, but 
> I
> guess thats what fan zilla is for. so Im on the list for that now.
> good luck to ya.
>
> Dustin
> 006746
>
>
>> From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
>> Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] New Alternator
>> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 02:20:42 -0000
>>
>> I just put in one of John Hervey's 140 alternators and I got two
>> questions I hope someone could answer. First, when I turn on the A/C
>> the lights still dim and when I give it gas the belt will squeal. Did
>> I tighten the belt to the A/C too much or not enough? Or is it
>> something else? Second, I had the Motorola in there and when I would
>> turn the car off the battery light would turn on for a second but now
>> since I replaced it the battery light won't come on for a second
>> anymore when I shut it off. Was there something wrong with my old
>> alternator that would make the light come on when I'm shutting the
>> car off or was that normal? Thanks for any replies.
>>
>> Mike
>> 5623
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Donít just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:57:45 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

WOW!  A heatgun really does wonders removing the epoxy from the 
frame.  Previously I had been using a drill with a wire brush 
attachment but this is WAY better.  Yes, you still have to scrape, 
but it comes off like warm butter.  It takes about 10 seconds with 
the gun to warm the area sufficiently to start scraping but after 
it's hot, moving to an adjacent area is very easy.  

I did also try the propane torch.  Having something like that in my 
hand was too much for my pyromaniac instinct though, and I couldn't 
help but flame the hell out of the epoxy to the point where it was 
bubbling black.  The heatgun, however, is a perfect restraint and is 
awesome for removing the epoxy.  Incidentally, is it usual to find 
small light rust spots underneath perfectly good, non-cracked, non-
chipped epoxy?  

Matt
#1604





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